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Photo^phic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  872-4S03 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


em'MWV' 


i.j,ji>.,^uv..,!.;w)iywiija!;;ji;a"-i ;.''.. .■'''"'' 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographlques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  rray  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 
D 
D 


Coloirred  covers/ 
Couvarture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommag6e 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  et/ou  pellicul6e 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


r~~\    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  giographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Ench'e  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


D 
D 


D 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
ReliA  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  Interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
il  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmAes. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lul  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibllographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquis  ci-dessous. 

□   Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

□   Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 

□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur6es  et/ou  pellicul6es 

□    Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachet^es  ou  piqu6es 

□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtach^es 

□    Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualitd  in^gale  de  I'lmpression 

□    Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 


D 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refllmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


G 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires; 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


28X 


32X 


ails 

du 

tdifier 

une 

nage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condit  on  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  filmd  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
gdndrositd  de: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

Les  images  ituivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^-  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverturo  en 
papier  eat  imprim^e  sont  filmds  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  appara?tra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  In  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  §tre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  film^  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup^rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire,  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


rrata 
:o 


pelure, 
fid 


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32X 


1 

2 

3 

m 


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lili 


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1 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


ItY 

LOUIS  MOIIEAU  gOTTSClIALIv, 

I'lAMST  AND  L(JM1'(I.SKI!, 

CnKV.U.IKK  IIP  TllF.  (illllEllJ  OP  mAIlKM.A  THE  CATIlcl.If,  rllARI.T:^  111   .  .IND 

i.lD.N  MP  iiiir,f<rKi!f-i.iMiioiiiii ;  mk.miipii  up  rin;  riiii.iiAUM.rNii! 

»oi;iErm:<  up  imiiDPArx.  ni;w  youk,  u.iva.v.i, 

KKi  i)i:  jANEiiiii,  KTc.  mc. 


DURL\(}  Ills  PROPKSSiONAL  TOriiS  IN  THE  TNITED  STATES, 
CANADA,  THE  ANTILLES,  AND  SOUTH  AMElilCA. 

PBRHEDED  HY  A 

SHORT  RIOGRAnilCAL  SKKTCII  WITH  CONTKMrOHAXlDrS 

vIlITIClSMS. 

EDixnn  nv  itis  sister, 

CLAUA  GOTTSCIIALK. 

TRANSLATED  FROM  THE  FRENCH  I!Y 

ROBEUT  E,  PETEKSOX,  IM.I). 


"Wo  soo  that  nothing  is  wantlnpr  In  tho  wurks  of  Ooltsrhalk,  iii'itli.'r  viiri.'iy  in  ilii> 
sn1i|('cl<  troatfd  of,  nor  nri,i;hiallt)'  of  stylo.  Ho  nicrilH  llioii.  ii«  (•uin|i'>-'fr  :iii,|  ;i~  uitUt. 
:i  si'iiiuiitu  place  ulougsido  of  the  groat  masters  of  modern  art."— A.  Mah.momki,. 


P  IT  I  L  A  D  E  L  P  IT  I  A  : 

J.    B.    LTIM'IXCOTT   &    CO.; 

LONDON:  10  SOL'THAMl'TON  STREET,  COVENT  GARDEN. 

1881. 


^4i 


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Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congre««,  In  tho  yoar  1881.  by 

UOHKRT  E.  PETERSON,  M.l>., 

in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress. 


'0 


A 


W- 


,^7 


THE  CITY  OF  NEW  ORLEANS, 


THE  BIHTIIPLACE  OP 


LOUIS  MOREAU   OOTTSCIIALK, 

m»  Volume 


IS    DEDICATED    BT    HIS 


BROTHER  AND  SISTERS. 


(iii) 


CONTKXTS. 


lUOCKAI'IIlCAL  SKKTCII. 


t'lIAl'TKil  I. 

r 

I'arriitnsi'  ni'il  Mrtli— Minlcnl  pri'rdiity— Pi'licnfolH'.iltli  of  liisinntln'r 
—  lii'iimval  til  I'artH  ('lii'i.itiiiii — Mnlhi'i'  aluniii'il  liy  luaiini;  tlic  \ii,'ni.i 
— Uicit  Mii'iirisi' to  llml  it  <viis  till' rliild — father's  iisnlvii  to  liavo 
hill)  tailKlil  liilisir-— Alli'nlotii  111'  till'  lli';;ri',-s  slave  iiid  iliilil — i:!- 
froutiTy  of  liuliaii — lU'tuni  to  Now  Urlcaii.i 


ClL\i'Ti;U   II. 


Mr.  I.i'trlliir,  IiIh  ti-aclicr  of  iiiaiio — Mr.  Miojaii,  tonflu'r  on  violin— 
llaiii'l  |ii'oL,'iTss^l'lays  oi'uaii  at  ratln'ili-al  ina.-s — I'liaMi',  from  imiio- 

tioii,  to  iclati'  Ills  sii '.ss  to   lii.-i   luollii'i- — Ills  llr^t  coiu'i'i-l — (iieat 

suci.'i'ss — l''atlu'i''s   ivsoliitioii  to  scinl   liliii  to  Taris— Coiu.'i'rt  liofoi'is 
dLi(aitiii(.' — .Viiucilotcof  .Mr.  liarrau'l,  tho  liainlrrssi'i'     . 


•i'J 


CII.Al'TKR  III. 

Loavi'H  Ni'W  Oi'li'Him  for  l'ari> — Arrival  in  I'aris — Ilalli'',  liis  (Irst  mii- 
siral  iirol'i'Si.or — Allerwanis  ('.■uailli'  Slaiiiaty — lli-s  lovo  for  .Mr.  Sta- 
iiiaty — ('oiii|iositiim  tau^'lit  liiiii  liy  Mr.  .Malnli'ii — (itlior  stiulii's— 
liitroiluiM'il  liy  liis  j;raiiilamit,  tlm  .Mar.(iiisi'  ilo  la  liiaiiKf,  to  tho 
I<Mki' of  r^alvainli  ami  llo'  DiulicsHi' do  Xarliomii-,  Diiko  il'l'Varro, 
liollisiliild,  I'Mouard  Kodriu'in' — Oroal  iiiciiiory  for  ii.iisii' — .Musical 
iMiirinotiTliny  .'ipplii'd  to  iitlu'r  studifS — Coiu'ort,  Kan  /nii/iiiil,  at  tlio 
Salle  rii-yid — ('mild  .\iiieriia  jirodiiee  an  artist.' — (ireat  Hiiifcss^ 
('lio|iiirs  iirediiliuii — Coiieert  at  ."^edaii — llitlierto  playi'd  only  eoni- 
liositioiis  of  lieetlioveii,  .Mendilssnlm,  Liszt,  Tliallier^',- and  ('liii|iin 
— Writes  '  Daiise  Ossianiiiio','  '  Les  llallades  d'Ossian,' or  '  l,e  l.ai 
ilu  Pernier  Meiiestrel,'  •  La  Orandu  V'alse,'  '  La  Uraiido  I'Undu  Con- 
cert'— AiU'cduti'.s      .......... 

A*  (v) 


31 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


tturu  to  Pnri/-Hooom..s  intimate  with  Rev.  A.lolpho  Monocl- 
K,>tuiu  to  1  u  Monod  — Concert   for  workmen  of  Mr. 

^'"^^•^"'^'^^I'f ';L,I,op  1  al  been  burned _ Account  and  criticism 
Sn'^u'l^^MuS^- Presentation  of  address^by  workmen  to 

liottschalk 


PAai 


35 


CHAPTER  V. 

Mr  Plevel  Erard-Caricatured  by  '  Cbam'-Anecdotes-Journey  to 
'^wit'er  and-' Le  songe  d'une  nuit  d'6te-Taken  ill  at  Roushes- 
C  V/certs  a  »4onHva-(rrand  Duches.  of  RuBsia-l'nncess  Weyma  — 

O        K^  V^erdon  for  hospital  a-r  the  ^g' ^l^o^Il^^l^iSd  n 
hi,n_\oti.'e  in  '  La  France  Musicale,'  by  L.  Encudier— Lrititib,ii  b 

Oscar  Commettant;   '  J'arisian  Press,'  by  1 '; -^'^f '  ,f^; '^'^'''"  ^^"^ 
I'lnstitut),  Escudier,  Fiorentino,  and  Theophile  Gaiitier         .        • 


42 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Return  from  Switzerland  to  Paris-Leaves  for  Madrid-Visits  Bor 
,le  lux  Pau,  Tarbes,  Bayonne-Dinner  given  to  him  by  Monseigneur 
Domn't    Canlinal  Archbishop  of  Bordeaux-Notices  of  press  and 
criticisms  of  artists-Concerts  for  benefit  of  the  poor        .         .         •     o 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Arrival  in  Spain-Concerts  at  Bilboa-Concert  for  ^«?f"\«f  *:):°/^i: 

..ored— Called  before  audience  seventeen  times-A  ^'l^'^  ' "  "    f'p 
»'r„ep -injury  <»  Li.  f  "5"  l^^>:^S^St2 

celebrated  bull-tighter,  Jose  Redondo   with  *'\\,f " "^'^^i^'^Lcaves 
Montes-Presents  by  Duke  and  Duchess  de  Moiitpuisar     i.cavc^ 

Spain  for  Paris  and  New  York         .       ,  • 


59 


CONTENTS, 


VU 


PAOS 


35 


42 


CIIArTER  viir. 

Arrival  in  Now  York — Rarnnm's  offer  doclinid — licavcs  fnr  New  Or- 
l,.,^,is — Concerts  in  New  York  and  Pliiladi'liiliia — Conperts  at  New 
Orleans — (iold  medal  i)resented  to  him — V.eturns  to  New  York  — 
Concert  at  lioston,  and  news  of  his  father''!  death — Leaves  for  New 
Or'oans — Pays  his  father's  dehts — Publishes  '  Lai.t  Mope,'  etc. — 
Eighty  concerts  from  1855  to  1850 — Death  of  his  mother— Returns 
to  the  Antilles,  in  company  with  Ailelina  Patti — Composes  'Colum- 
bia,' etc. — His  rest  at  Matouba — Other  pieces  composed — Acain  at 
Havana — Organizes  a  great  festival  with  eight  hundred  musicians — 
'  La  Nuit  des  Troijinues' — Created  Chevalier  of  the  royal  and  distin- 
guished order  of  (Charles  III.  hy  Queen  Isabell.a — Arrival  and  deatii 
of  his  brother  Kdward  in  New  York — Max  Strakosch's  offer  accepted 
—  Eleven  hundred  concerts  given — Leaves  San  Francisco  for  South 
America — Arrival  and  tour  in  South  America — Lima,  Montevideo, 
lUienos  Ayres — Concerts  given  for  iH-nelit  of  Fren  h,  Oerman,  ami 
English  hospitals— (iold  medals — Hio  Janeiro — Marked  att.  iiiion 
from  Dom  Pedro  and  Queen— Attacked  with  fellow  fever— Visits  to 
Emperor  l)(mi  Pedro — Soiree  in  his  lionour  at  Emperor's  pahKe,  San 
Christorao — Emperor's  delicacy — Kindness  of  Emperor  during  his 
sickness— Public  reception  hy  ch-rgy  of  Imperial  College  of  Alcan- 
tara— Concert  at  Valenza— His  last  concert — Faints  at  piano  and 
conveyed  houit, — Illness — Conveyed  to  Tijuca — His  decease     . 


66 


54 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Notices  of  his  death— His  funeral  under  the  cnj^trol  of  the  1'-  ilharmo- 
nio  Society — (Jreat  lamcn.tation  in  Hio— Hurial  in  cemetery  of  San 
.lose  Uaptista — Orations  at  his  grave— His  intentions  aftirr  leaving 
Brazil  to  visit  Great  Britain — On  receiving  news  of  death  his  sisters 
leave  London  for  T.'ow  "i'ork— (^ottschalk's  body  brought  to  New 
York — Conveyed  to  St.  Stephen's  Church — Funeral  eehdiration — 
His  bixly,  with  that  of  his  brother  Edwanl,  conveyed  to  Orcjnwood 
Cemetery — Monument  erected  by  his  brother  and  sisters 


POSTHUMOUS  CRITICISMS. 

GOTTSCHALK  A9  A  MAN 

GOTTSCUALK  AS  A  COMPOSER  AND  PUNIST        . 


79 

80 


59 


VUl 


coy  TENTS. 


NOTES  OF  A  riAXTST. 


CIlAl'TKR  I. 


Fir.t  vi<it  to  Cnl.n-llavan.M -Forts  Morn.  niMt  (  .■>bn,.,'i-r  stoin- 
„,,„..  ..m.-ers-lu.-iaout  on  tho  >toa.u...-  iVoui  Now  OrloMUS-C  o.mts 
M  ,U-  Ca^snto  aii.l  Malaiiorta— Mc'tin^  of  thf  counis  in  ^paui— mu- 
'  ;  i;    ,    ,u.i,l..ur,._Firs\  .vonin^:  in  llavaua-Kn,lisl.  travoU.rs  ,n 

,,  ,i,,.  ,„.  ,Ji  „iu.  ,„  t,av.-lU.r.  in  their  a.-.-unts  ol  ^'•--^^  "'  "'^ 
-U'ln.-s  aiwl  ,.,mn.rt-i..viU..l  to  pahuv  by  Marshal  ftonaiio- 
Opora  of  'I'.t.  ChaniiKtr,.  Cul.ai...'-<iraiKl  concvrt  ol  >"■•"■'>;'""« 
hl.n.lro.l  i...rforuu.rs-h>m„M.s,.  lahuur  i"  P'ttn.}-'  ''  "l'-  'I'rV' 
irounos  ,.xiHTto.l  at  Havana-Trimni.h  of  'I  ra^-.ala-h  I.mI  ot  li.l- 
viata  Ol,  th'.  lacli.■s-l■:nthu^iasn.  lor  ].a  (ia//.a!UKa-  'artRM  ol  1m .jz- 
zolini  an.l  (iaz/a..if:a-La  farto^i-Strilo  r.Miow.Ml  WU:c,-n  tl.o 
parti.'s— lnt,.rf.MviRM.  of  autlioi-iti.'s— Trip  U)  Canl.-nas— Kxi-or  s  .ma 
i,•aa.•^vith  riut,.(l  t>tatos-No(.-cssith-s  of  a  t<i.a.ii>h  city— <  hurch 
an,l  thoatr..;  of  n  Yank.'.,  city,  h..t.'!,  ..hnr.-li,  u<■^^^y■^vrv  """;.•;  ""'^ 
i-on.vrt  hall— Con.-.'rt  at  Canl..nas— K.tnrii  to  Havana— liilh.;ul- 
tk'S  of  the  road 


89 


CHAPTKR  II. 

(•  .n.trv  of  tl,..  Antilh-^^-Iiitcrior  ..f  Cul.a— Su-ar  pIant.ntinns-Tr..at- 
„„.nt"  ..f  slav,..-l.if.'  .-xt  Cayn,ito-l!ats~Hooks_  ,.•  ^■i;-i'-)\  ';'t 
r..n,l,-rs  the  J^pani.ar.K  unhappy-Hnihark  lor  M  Ihoinas— ,st.  Do- 
nun.'o  an.l  its  assoHati.ms-Tah's  at  tie  1„tsi,1  — Bras  (<.ui..— 
A-;7ssinati(.n  in  !^t.  Doniin-o— .Instifkation  of  tho  no^jro.'S— Ksrape 
of  faniilv  I..  N.-w  Orh.ans— St.  Th..nias— hivit,iti..n   Innu   -ov.^rnoi- 

t;,,,„.rall-Thr...>com-,.rts— Hv.'ntofth.M.v.'nin-— Ch.-valu'r.h.h 

— Kiv.U.ri.'k  Harl.aronssa— Hiivcaiu'ers— Harhan.ussa  s  tow.'r  ami 
f,„.,,.,...;_X,.f;n,  ir.a.litions- St.  Thomas  :.  fr.'..  ymrt— Th.- .•x.-hanp^ 
of  Vh.'  lwon.nlin..u'  — A  nav.al  station  of  ^Mvat  inii.ortan.-.— U'llow 
fev.T— Town  of  St.  Thon.;^s— I'i.mr.'s.iu..  IV't.'S  at  th.'  l'..rt  .)l  I'ran.o 
on  tlu'  inau.Mirati..n  of  th.'  statu.-  oftli.'  i'lnipn'ss  Jos.'plnn.'— (  .mc.'rt 
—\'\<\\  to  Mr.  I!,  at  I'hi/.n.'la— li.'.vptiou  at  I'.in..'- C.n.'.'rts  a.li.s 
—IWrc.'hma  (la  C.t.'  femi.-)— Hs.'ap."  of  Ih.'  Ihisati  lannly— IL'siu- 
talitv  ..f  th..  .■r.'..l.'S— Ma.la:u  Ihisati— dp.'ra  troapo  want.'.l  at  St. 
]>i,,,.;v_l','„lVssor  of  pian..  wanto.l— K.'t,'r.'t  on  l.'i  vinix  Martmi.iu.— 
I'ian..  m.-i.h'  liv  ll.'uri  ll,.,/— I!,'p..rts  of  my  .h'alh- Fnn.'ral  h..nia^;.' 
tu  the  bard  of'tho  tr.ipicn- Ucsciiptioiiof  biipcrb  culourud  ungravaig 


'JO 


CONTEXTS. 


i% 


89 


i)'J 


niAl'TER  HI. 

PAiiE 

N,.w  York  onro  moro-Pix  yavs  lo„lisl,ly  H,...nt-r.oan>inf:  at  ra,.,l...u 
_Cn,u-,..-,l  .MV.s.-lf  in  a  ,l,.s..n-Liv,-  l.k..  a  hrnuit-lNH.r  l^nl  t„i  .-m- 
paninn— iVM-i-ii.tiuii  oC  .■al.in  ami  suiTn.in.lin-  s.',.n,T.v—  ..tMl"'so 
1  Krnon.ls  mni.-  •  l.a  Man-lu-  .los  (Jil,am..s,'  '  Pnlo.na,  •  <  u  ,m>b,  , 
Tastoivlla  ..  CavalluMv,'  M..ui,..ss..,'  ,.f.-My  va,v'alH,n;l  hi.'  u- 
stn,v.l  In  ni.— l.ivin;,'  tl,..  \\U-  of  i,ni„itiv..  ';">'""'"— Z, J ";'^*:  '.',''" 

_<„akos.l.  oll-.TS  an  .■n^as.Mn,.nx-l  a.v..i.t-lNH.s.v  and  v,.utl.- 
Con.cit  at  N.'w  V,Hk— lii.l.anl  llnUiuanan  artist  nii.l  a -.■ntl.man— 
Tlu.  artist  is  n,..>vl,anais,.-Tl...  ,.r..ss  .f  tlu,  ''"i";  ^''"'■^-  ';  ';^;- 
tni-s— 'Mun.uuvs  Koli.Mis-— Kn,i,t.n..ssnl  liu.uan  liinKs— 1  nst-'">- 
c...-t  at  N-w  V,„k-l.oss,.>-\Vallar,.-lianuuus  o.!...-l'atl...  s 
,„j,>,li..,..-I....-iv,.  for  N.'U-  (h-l,.aMs-|.:Mtl.us,astu;  '•"'■'■l",",".'-' ;  [: 
isian  rrimtatinu— Tlirown  ,.n  n.y  own  n.so„nvs--l'ai.uly  ..l.liga nm.^ 
—I'av  n,v  tath,.r's  ,l,.l,ts-Tnur  in  NfW  Hn-lana-l' .rst  r,v..,i,ts  at 
]V,ston-l)is«mrag.'nirnt-koss,s-KrtMrn  to  New  ^  orl.-k.4  .'i 
front  tl.o  Connt,.ss  .le  riavi,'ny-llall-s  „llVr-^.uv,.ss-llal  iml)- 
lislH.s  '  he  lianjo-  iuu\  '  l.a  M.rrli..,'  .■tc.-l!ap>'l  .al.—  kasf  Hoi-, 
first  sola  for  liltv  aoUars-lIall  ,,urrliasca  it  troii.  tl..^  i,ul.lisl,w  tor 
,,,m..  i,ri,.— lunumso  uuiuImm-  sin..-  soM-  N.'W  V,rk  as  bnllia.t  n 
isil- as  in  l.sr.T-l'on'i-n  journals  on  til.- V  •— M..st  ^..v,-rnni,-iitMn- 
t..r.-st,Ml  in  thu  fall  ..f  tlo-'r.-iniUi.— It:nor;auv..f  f..ivi^;n.-rs  ^ouv^^n- 
in-  tlo-  Ui.it.-a  ^tat.-s-Iii.tan,M.s  of  this  ,;;iioran..--l.a.-uiia  .n  o,i.r 
(■ivili/.ati..n— liri-uoli— Cuiui-aiiion  of  the  .k-sert  l..llo«s  luo  t..  .^.■^^ 


Yi.rk 


CHATTKR  IV. 


-Flour 


Chifa'o—Citv  raisoa  from  tm   t..  t\vv\vv  f,.rt— ll-.u.-  raism-- 

ana  --rain  "at  ilu.-air,.-Mihvaiik.-.— lianu.-r  ..f  '(in-ai    llol.,  in   tlie 

Dav'— Si.uix  niassam-  in  .Miiui.-sota— I'l.ilharuioni.;  s.M-..-ty,  tli.-atr.-, 

an.'l  ronc-rt  hall  at  Milwauk.-,— F r-ii.l.  .'.-k  -iv.-s  a  ai"n,-r-Ama- 

,l,,,it— C.invov  .if  wouu.lo.l— M>.'lii.ii.ali.iii  ot   Mi^s 


aiii 

tours  of  ''r.-at   I 


Ni..litiii-al..s— T.M.-.l..— Kap-  f,.r  conv.Tsi..n— ilauall.-n  ((  anada  — 
EuHish  s..l,li..rs-Musi,-al  fast.-  not  ,l..v.-l..poa-.s.-v.;r  listen  to  to. 
ju.i.li,— IJi.hopof  Chi.-ati.i-M.Ul.-.  I'atti-Air.vtm-  in.-ia-nt  at  sta- 
ti„n-I,...-khorl-kin.-..ln  i.ai-a.uis  a  ymn-  soMu'r  .•.m.l..mn,..l  to 
d.-ath-St.  I,.mis-J^.H-i.-ty.tivia.-.l  into  di.iu,-s-C  atlo.  u-s  in  it- 
inajoritv-ti.-nuan  jM-ofc-ssor  ..f  niusi,-^  Maladroit  imitation  <.t  th,, 
.rn.at  i.'r..f,->sor  of  li.mii— S.ap  n..t  iiifonipatihl.,-  with  i:rmn>^--M;x^> 
at  Father  Hvairs  .hiuvh— Why  .lo.-s  Ih.-  pri.-st  -.-t  out  ol  tin-  k.-y  .— 
Hacr,..l  nuisi.— S.-r.-nn.l.-  to  (ioi.oral  H.Uh-.;k-Aui.oiino.s  ^r,-at  vie- 
torv,  ami  also  a  sa.l  .ml— fin.-innali-l.il.ia.y  ..I  doling  M""^  '^';  r- 
cantil.'  Asso.-iati.ui— ('..inm.-r.-..  of  Cin.-innati  lu  lar.l  aii.l  hams- 
Visit  sla.mht.-r  h.ms.— Ja.-ks.urs  d.-f.-at  ..f  jiauks-^-.-y.-uth  r.-;:!- 
mont  of  N.w  Voik-l!i..t  in  Ualtim.u— lia.l  '"'^""'^-p'!";''''';  I 
cert  at  I'hilad.-lphia-' l.Tnion-  -x.-it.-s  gn-at  ,.,,thu>iasiu-A  .  r 
con,.-.-rts  in  X.-w  York  ami  I'hila.l.aphia  l--v,.  ';''■  ^^ ''~'''";r  .';"- 
Auxious  to  see  aiiuy  of  tUo  IVtoiuat— luoideut  ou  the  way  to  \\  aaU- 


CONTEyTS. 

p 

.„,ton  in  185G_Wintor  of  ff^-£^:^  Jl^^Si^S: 
Jability-Trains  tak.n  for   tn-.-ys-  n      "^^/.f  ..,,,„,  ,,„urs-Car 

1UU-.1  ui.  for  k.tch.'u-Me.  s  t    .  '^  ^  j;,^,  „„,.„Ho.l  as  „urs...-l'.UU 
,,u„.lr-.l  and  fifty  ^^""^^ ,     I  ery-Couiforl  of  sleeping  cars  . 

volunteer  corps  New  \ork  aimuiy 


132 


CHAPTER  V. 


convent  of  tl.o  Si.tor«  of  the  VisitatJ^n-IJanglUer  of  Oen-.^^ 

^°!!l-r,.sentation  l^v  the  lady  supen^'^J^^^^^^^^^ 

ll.Her-Titiens,  Negr.n.,  "^^'^  ^,""  '  ^'^  t  vLiutiful  in  the  world- 
;„•  Music  at  nul-l'-lP  ;;,'^-  on  ot  t  >  -J ^.^  ^.^,^,,^  V^'T'V?'^ 
Concert  at  ^^  ""'""a'""-";^  ">i,  ,„  .>  minister,  I5aron  b^tuikc-l,  Mr. 
Merrier,  Mr.  de  Tassera  ''«  f^^  ^e  inati-l'lavs  tl,e  nat.onal 
Blon.lel,  Belgian  '"''V'^''',  ,  M  hVcoh-lHs  person  and  cha.acter- 
air  of  each  <">'"try--  '■•^'^''l' "'i''^'^Xur  annoyan.e-Anglo-^axou 
Cneert    ah.ne    at   ^Vor^ester-AmaU  .^_^_,^^^^^f  ^^_^,^,^.,^  p^ 

„>ethod  of  playing  m«s,e  ^vludyjj  1-   «^^^        ,^,,  f,„.,„,  ^  judpn.en  - 
-it,„s_Knglislnnan  hetore  a  picUir.,     ■       ,  .  ,.      i,,^'^  „msic  hall— 

A  So-Saxon  lacks  the  r::}:itS^^^^S^>^-^^  -«""""*  "^'"^ 

tuccess  of  aeronaut  '"^t    'attle  of  K.thmo       ^  ^^_^^^^.^,^j  "-"""^""ons 

York  volunteers— Mr.  B.,  aturiur,  ""  yy^^  ]?.•»  marvellous 

llMr.  n.  forn.s  an  Italian  "V-^^Ji^^P^ll^ec-md  cc.ncert  at  I'rovi- 

to  let  said  to  cost  five  thousand  do'aTf     _,,,,,,,„.,„n_p„rtsmouth 

S::;i!^rilln.an_^l.ns..  r.T-;3  l^'Lrnun>-l-ortiand, 

a  eharming  town-1'relty  girls     m^^^^.^^,^,  ,,f  j,,,,,  .luan-^u- 

,       Maine-Magnificen   concert-^a^^^^^  ^^^^     i^„i,t-t*).nngtn;ld, 

„i„i_Mistake  of   the  amati-iirs     •"»•      '    ,        '       jUirlington,  \  er- 

Massachusetts-Matinee  ^,^i:;'^^;^^ii,[^e^-n«vrid  Fn^-^  oi        ^ 

mont— Hishop  Hopkins— <^>"/"«^.-;_st   i^^^^.^ence  River— Visit  to 
iCcanaclians-Montreal-La  C^^^^^^^  ^,  ,  f  Boston 

Alvargo  Island-Kaugh  er  of  '^"7''"  „,„,re_auel.ec-'  L'Ar.ge  de- 

\   ss  Reed— Captain  Blair— Lord  l^*}"™''^ ,  "^^riests— Convents— 

-^V^'f   Kalkbre mer-Streets   «'r^H*l,Tc  „.«lians-Iiitern>entof 

tLi.i:^i  ^-r-'^nlJuS^'^nusl  -^evl^  -  the  Esplanade 

a  s..rgeant  of  ^^^'^^"[r  CanrltL  v  cabul^  1>"""'>''^"  ^""^^  145 

■;^.SXS:^^^S^^^  of  Parliament  .  • 

CHAPTER  VI. 

.Billad   to  tho  moon,'   hy   Alfred  .;|"^;i;:\i;Jt-Dion  Rm.ci'."^^^ 
F    uchman-Kingston-Toronto-^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 

Batavia-Indian  t""'l'--^"\«  ^^J^  'l^chool  gins'  pKiiic-Klnura 
—Most  heautiful  country  in  the  «oi  11  ^,   ^.frio— Roni.— I  tica  — 

Zoswego-Cominerce   of  OsweRO-L.il-  JJ  t;^^^^    i,,,i_  Reports 
Charming    town-(  eneral    »UCk    an  ^^^.^,.  ^.^j^.^e    Er.e- 

ahout   McClellan-Clevelaml-bJi;iay,^^^.^^^^^^_^^^^^.^ 

Madam   S -^ 


132 


CONTEXTS. 

,     «<•       a:.,^iilTr  nlfivill"' — Scntrh  molo- 

Sinsnlar  noticc-Tho  f^^l^^^J^SS^uS' W  y-l-.t.i  fight- 


jA 


PAOS 


-San.lusky-W arrant ''f '^"  ^^-J^;  ^^  f  ju.l.Mu-nt  on  a.t-Win.l 
Monclu-,'-lnto"so  oo  ,  at  i^.\  ^^  •^\\_a,,  .Li^lu-i.  of  Cin.innat 
Lat..s-Whi.'h  most    o  be  f^-:'-*''^/.'^  •':,„,  Hiblfs-Inaianap. 


ati 
I 

,i,_Major  un.lor  arrest-*.     •  ^"<  w  ^'  '"  ^_,,i,„.  .rtiU.ry-Hat- 


145 


at  that  i.u-si,  uii^  ""*'~'i"i":„'V.,lo— Suoc.-ss  at  Chicago— Clii.-ago  niorft 

CHAPTER  VII. 


159 


Last 


•     „^Tiipir  number  — Effect  upon  me  — 
of  conccrts^__given  •- Their   numDe  .^^  ^^^^^^        _ 


,,st  tour  o^  «""'^"*  .,f!;f\vish  1 0  give  three  concerts  in  one  day- 
Tlionglils  of  t'|«/^'f  "f  ~:,  ,„,,,,,iitlH.d  it-Uomantic  cause  ot  my 
Theflr>*t  i.ian.^^t  who  has  ■;<;»';7;^.  ^..ly  a  fasliional-le  luxv.ry, 
f,aur.^A  clan,  for  ^^  '"J"  ^  l^^''^4^t'',°,,o^,^  appreciated  by  many 
and  music  an  _«g;;««£^^X  dillnhe'rited  bV  thought-Lauu-r- 
__I)o  not  write  lor  these  J""."  „_„,,„  nhvsical  ulienomenon— 
tine'B  description  of  ""'^'^-S"  Neura ^i^^^^^^^ 
Its  in"««"«'^-^'^.^7'^;,°lr    Phn^deS  Year's   Day -A 

Smith"— '  lleruause,' why  composed 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

SpringneU  (niinols)-9t^ichol^^<^:;^HbnU^:  -;!  -- 

\ifi;ations-Concert  ^^.^^'^^S  "^-J.^^^^^^^  of  Schiller's 

ron  from  New  'Jrauada-Soldiers  prescm  ^^^^  ^^^,^ 

.  WaUensteiu--Squint-eyed  e^'""'''r^,'^"™ecou  to  General 

who  could  make  tweuty-flve  percuss  o^^^^  ^^^,^.^^,^  j„  ,.., 

--riii^iJiSrfluS     t^£clt|nt^ 
S^^S^^l^  tir^tl^'of  SS::e-iiorror  of  slavery  made 


Xll 


COXTKSTS. 


mo  cmanr'niat.'  my  nosrroos 
tin-  loiistitutii'ii— f^'ii'lii    ''■'"' 

CuloiiL'l  EllnWdilh    . 


Vu-rnu'iii/i'  Imt  niii"  pr'niii'l'',  tli:"'   "' 

ii|iiiii   tvvi)  iidlilicMl  <  rrots — No  illu- 

Mrxiuiaria— M;ush:ill  House  lloU'l— 


ISO 


ClIAl'THR  IX. 

V,  ,„.     ;UuhMnh-rs  to  •  Mason's  Musi.al  ^^'l''''^/''" '-''  'r,''     ,  ,; 

,"■„.„„,.  Jonruar-l^anry  but  '">'M-'''lH^-^';>'"r,  ^;'  '^  '  I 
'  bnanliu^'-s.hool,  tbo  n...st  iut.rrst.nf,'  .  .Mu.-ut-  l.a>t  1  - 
n  ,1  '  V's  o,;ila-Tho  ral,.i.'at..,l  IWWIiov.m.-TIu;  -ivat  ,l,;a,l  !  1  ons 
f,  •  ,v  I  Ul,'  •  iu,..s  .ouunitlra  in  tl,..ir  nau.-  :_Cho,„n-l.as  nou- 
t'  l  '  o  art-l-U.l.worsbiiUMM's-IMuHoriciausulHy/.antnnu- 
'n   .'   4r     a    ■  A,|.,.r>.hus-lloinnan  and  b,.e.-lV,..tbov..n,  l„s.  , 

,1  1  ■   '  — «-.piuiou  of  u,ys,.U-My  ...sist-un-  for  l.lt,...u  uioutb. 
tin       'pet  1  .i;-How  avoi.l  beenuuMj;  brutah.e,  _(  omu,,.   n 
tha    ol  ■^'•''1'      '    "     ,      >^,     ,„„.k„t  l,nnks-l)isr.vct  tnomls-lb-n- 

at     Kbuira-l'iauo    fui-bi,l.U.u-Sun,lay    at    < 'M";     M^'.^ -';/ •    f^^ 
1.  ,      Tl,,'  ui-esrnt  uTation  of  Heedicrs— W  illiauisport,  1  a.— 

t    (i,   ;   ::;^\:.u.s-.u..u.>-al  Scotf  s  opiuiou  „f  Lee_-I>..spaleb  tn.m 
t    -  (i    ■  Tno.- of  l...uusylvania-Volunte.T  u,il.ta,-y  \"""'--\  1  ''     " 
;.,s-lnit,.,lbytlu.i.:  liativd  of  thm—lireat   eons  en.at.o   -1  a- 
loio     ,   ..tin>/or...anizea-Coneert-MaaaUi   StrakoR.'lj-lnniuy 
,       ,  >     '  t    s-Hariii-Carb.   Tatti-Wbat  a  fan.  ly  !-.\u  ineoni- 
:  a       e  vo m^  ,Sn  elos.es  tbe  ball  ou  tiptr,e_A,lyise,l   ,>ut,,n.  o^ 
I  Ut  at   llarrisbup^-tieneral   Hwell-r^tuart  "t   boes      u       >- 
Won.au-s    i,aa,inatio„-IK.r    .nlb,eu..e   .'''/"''-,♦':'•; /'^.''t. 
Cmau.-t  of  rioutberu  wo,„eu-Stron-nnna.'a  ^^,  ui en  <'*   '^' ;\       7 
,Ha-l''eu.ab.s  of  ^■.•u-  0,-leans-My   fnena  s   s  aten,ent-(.em'ial 
t  er-Mi«s  Beauregard-Laay  De  Forli-Cha.'b,ttc  Corday  .         . 


lOO 


rTIAPTRR  X. 


Williamsport-Fresb  telegram  ^^^'^ ^'-^r'^!'-^'^^'.^^^  \n 
.b.feuee  of  capitnl— Mv  eousius-Oue  m   tbe  ^."•t'",'";,         ,   .-M,.. 
tbe  Snubern  lu-n,y-lla,erstown  in  tbe  1"-'--';  ;:_,;;    ^^^.^ 
rat,.s-()n   tbe  roaa   to   llar.Msbur^r-hveiTboa.Mn^'   t,u        \ 
,1.,1,  „.e  do  ^-Onuvrt  out  of  ..uestion-Koad  obstn  de  <    ,  .;|  J^ 

t,ai„s,  wa.ons  of  all  .orts.  eto.-Train  stops  ''";"•''-.'         .  I!  ^^^ 
over  tiio  Sus4uebanna-Ch-eat  ansu■ty-^Vomen,  dead  N^^tb  in.ut, 


coyTj:xTs. 


XUl 


ISO 


lOO 


do  not   .VMS,.   tnlkiiiK  — TinMl   of   snsr.-ns( — Mrnltosrl.     M.'u  ,m, 
Amrlia  I'Mtti,  ana  nivsi'lf  pM  .mt  of  tl,..  ,M.s-Station  ..MnnnlKjr.l  l.y 
inountMiiis  of  iniiil<'<— IHscovi-r  my  t«o  (.i.-uios— CUirU.Tiii-  ^..n>— 
'11, IV,'  tlioii^aiwl  uicM   at  work  on  tin-  iiitiviiclmu'iits— (  l.i>:y  I'liuu 
tlici.iM.lv, 's  at  til,'  disposition  of  tlic  (ioviii..!-  for  .l.-f.^nc-  ol  llo'  city 
_Tn'.ops   from  N,'W  .lcrs,y  an,l   N.^w  Vork-N,w  York   "'■portor,— 
S^nsational  n.^ws— Pinner,   rr,.nUcm,'ii  1— The  poor   l.larUs— (  attlo 
,lriv,.n  t.,wanls  iIh-  monntains— licnoral   Milroy  .l,.|cat.'.l_-A  vonn- 
man  insl  killed  on  llic  fortilh-itioiis— lieport  coiuvrimin  M,'(  1,'llan- 
Knovv  M,CI,41an— nl,l  men,  uomcn,  and  eliil.lren  1,'avin- the  eit.v— 
Mnrmnis  a-ainst  l'hilad,.|phia-Heauret;ard-s  faetoinm  and  harl"T 
_l;-,i„.,n— His  sin-nlar  history-.\   little  Spanish   hoy  adop|,.,l    i,y 
me  in  Spain-Thc^  tocsin  sonn.ls— Hands  parad,'  the  sti,'ets— \\  hat 
d.H.s    military  .■nthnsiasm   amount    to  .'-Which    si,U'  is  truth  ?— 
Jclhrson  Uavis  on  om^  sid,',  and  Lincoln  on  tiic  other,  order  thanks 


"to  the  Almi-htv— The  panic  i,i,.,vases— A  pMn^ral  s.u,r,  ,/,</;.»/— 
All  kinds  of  vehicles  put  into  r,Minisition— I  ram  leaves  in  a  lew 
i„i„„t,'s— lireat  c.iiifusion— Curse  my  ^-allantry— l.ad,i,'s  fiive  no 
thanks  for  court, 'sies  rcndercl— At  Philadelphia— heave  lor  ^c■^v 
Bruusui.k— t'oncrt  at  N.nv  L,.n,h,n— l>ra\viu-  tor  riMrmts  com- 
ni,.,„.,.,l— Irish  resist— Uioters  hurn  railroad  hrid-e  at  ll.-'em— 
Troops  (.rden.d  from  Morris's  Island —  ' Trihiuie  ollice  Imrned  — 
rn.s,.nted  \vith  hasket  of  ilow,'rs—lMtchlmi-h— Nashua— .N.'ws  ot 
takin-  of  I'ort   Hudson  received— Maiuhcstcr— Forced   to  give  up 


coucL'rt 


!08 


CIIArTER  XI. 


0„  a  tour— Madoinoiselle  CoiMU.'r,  Bri-uoli,  Cnvlo  Tntti,  Helnvns, 
Max  Strakos.'h.  Ashforth— Behreirs  weaknesses— D.'Viv,.,  ".''vy— 
A   hh-siii"   to   hot(d    proprietors— A    tempest  ot   snow-  hockloiu— 


Yimm-  ladies'  seuiinari,'S— Cultivatint,'  the  mind  and  improvm-  tho 
tast,- "imperative  amoiif;  Amcrh'au  women— l'r,.fer  our  system  ot 
o.lucatin- women  to  that  of  Hurop,— A  sleigh  nd,'-Its  .lisaereo- 
al,l,,„,.ss— Winter  triu'  season  for  inspiration— ^lacrilic,'  mysell— 
Kn<l  of  the  ride  a  seminary  .d'yoniit;  -iris— (iermans  an,l  spectacl.^s 
-Curiositv  of  the'  vouii-  j;irls-' Mahlen's  I'rayer'-l'cmae  ser- 
vants—Harvard— Temp.'st  of  snow— A-ivahlo  surprise— Uciyil- 
i/ation '-hash  ju.l-ment  and  a.uiv,.ahlo  surpnse-Keturn  to  tho 
(.,^,.s---<trakos,di  w-_<  nearly  fro/eii— Ihav,^  to  pass  the  night  at 
liarvard— I'iftv  or  sixty  i,ass,'U,L;ers— Disahled  sohliers,  '•<'•;—'»-;■ 
min.lcl  ..f  a  storm  at  pea— Terrihle  ■■oudiLiou  ot  thinus— ( )htain 
hnhdngs  at  the  postinast,.r-s-The  postmast,.r  and  his  launly- 
I'overtv,  hut  not  want— Kurop,'  cannot  nn.lerstand  th,'  character 
of  the  American  fanner- (iood  night— Condilh.u  on  awnkmg— I  Ic! 
,,,,pp,.,-s  signs  of  cold  wint,.,— Muskrats  an,l  trout-Sick  yming 
snhliei— Anxietv-  for  him— Nol'h'  hearts  ui  tins  world  ot  ,lollais 
an,l  cuts- Sull-onn-  from  the  cold  of  men  and  ,.attle— Milwaulo'e  ^^^^ 
imijossihlo        ..••••••■' 


imposs 


B 


XIV 


COSTEyTS. 


CHArXRR  XII. 


r*iti 


"  [ 


N^,w  Vo.k-llnrtl..;l->  'M'^^J  '  ,,.,     „i,,„,r„tic  city-Can;- 

_Fi-fia.mt  Hall  ;  <''^'":'* '';,'„     .i,v_lts    f,.uiul.T-Lain.-    "udi- 

e„co  -  Sunday  -  J"l  "«  '';  ?l^,.,p,..,,ts  from  the  d.'uf  and  dumb 
Institution  for  D.af  '^''  .  "  i^^*  a^^f,  .luml..  and  Mind-S,.r.nK- 
_L..tt..r  from  'f  "'^  •'^;//,^  ,  '"ac  id.-nt  whilo  ,.laying-Arnve  in 
fleld-Sniall  .ui.lienc.--Ui      n»  a  a,,,,.,!,^,,  ,,nn.a  .lonna- 

New  York-lKd.ut  of  M  .«  H^^^ 

l>l«y  ..uatuor  ..f  »f  i,''"^;;  ,7,^  .  [JEpiHcopalianH  an.l  Lont-Stam- 
ism  disa,.,..ar.nK  .n  ^^^ }^^^!^^  .ir  s-H.'-apiM^aranc.  of  BrignoU 
ford-Two  larn-'  coll.'g  s  [^  >"""];  ^^     Mario-Ma/.z<dini-('l.aract.T 

_Tl.o  tonor  imr  ^'''^^'''''"'"7^  'u  ^-"lono  '  Buc.rss  of-To  what 
ofhisvoic.-Wlmtid.a8eB     M^^^^^  .^  ^,.,,„„.l  „,t     f 

owing-T  inud.ty  "^..  »"!";„."'"■•."«./  tenor-An  oyation-Kx- 
'Soinnambula-Iftt^   ft  y"  "'^  .  J  „rign(di'8  ^^^  ,,,  i„,a.l  and 

citcn>e,.t  of  the  ^^^^^-^l^^.VYl^^'^-.iVph.'rablo   conccrt-Sil-nco 
horns-llis    fear   of  ^''%,''''    *Z  ,,,,„,e;t  when- pim-s  not  encored 
„.1„,„_"  Short  and  sweet   — Unly  '^"'"^^^  ••  "  .._.>  <.n„i"_"  Charley 
_MuHical  celebrities  who  ''^^^o  succeed.^  in. -ham  ^^^^^^_^^^^,^^  .^ 

such  a  one,  f.rst-rate  'I"""  ^^  }  ",?^,, t^,  at  table-Manners  of 
eredulity  of  A"ier,can8-Manm^  ^^^^,.,,^„j  j,,^  ,,,, 

men,  from  being  "  too  nun  y  "  P '  "  'y  ^^k_j,nrL'e  audien.'e— 
Bha^neful  .legradation-MaUnee  at  ^  ;^^J;"'-;,,_it,t..rson,  Nev. 
Departure  of  1  irst  "'^b;"  J"^  .'^'^y  i'^.^.t  place  in  the  world  to 
Jersey-Nine  t.ckets-I^^^w  J^J^^ey  P^    ^^^,|,^^„„,,   .-xperienco- 

give  concerts  .n -  !=''':'»  I'^^^f^^.^.^; philosopher  right  _  Concert  m 
Ignoble  observation  -  *;'*'„;''^^,,  ioermau  opera  broken  up  for 
iJ'ew  York  for  benefit  of  ";Y"!""TiY^,i  "pUia_Lil,eral  movement 
^•ant  of  money-Fine  <^""'^'^'*/^.i;"£Jderson-Reasons  for  being 
making  way-New  York,  l^^y.-^^^Ss  everywhere-Unfortunate 
proud  of  hi"'-N»'-.^\'»l^-^*"i^"^ue  M_-Hand8omest  little  hall  in 
U-''\':^^r::^::'^:Z^:^^r..,  intelligent,  ..legant- 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


,      >.       •  v     Travelling  music  master-Arrive  at  Norwich- 
^Xfetr'^A^^mirJ/TuSces   himself- Singular   personage- 


COSTEyTS. 


m 


FAOI 

'hrpo 

I'S    llf 

rt  in 
ics — 
Caiii- 

loVi'Il 

n  tlui 

aiiili- 

tdstoii 

(liiinb 

l>riiiK- 

•ive  in 

iiniii — 

iritan- 

-Stam- 

rigiioli 

iractiT 

0  what 
act  of 

11 — Kk- 
iiil  and 
^ili'uco, 
I'licorud 
Jliarltjy 
alii's  in 
iiicrs  of 
to,  li'sa 
lieiK'o — 
11,    New 
vorlil  to 
•ieiice  — 
ncort  in 

1  up  for 
lovt'inijnt 
'or  liping 
rortuiiate 
e  hall  in 
■U'Bant — 
k,  1  h>ve 

scgara-^ 
toil,   play 

'  Honin, 

—Sunday 

.  231 


JJorwich — 
rsouage  — 


•MuRie  Valo'-A  pr.Mt-r  amatonr  of  whlf^kpy  than  of  mu«lo-N.-w 
ih  a     ;■  r       .      -.-V:.!.....    Variaiii,    Ivlward    Honiuan-Uj.hanl 

uiS':!';::..  -S-1^^^ 

I,  .ai  1  avi  ur-().i  furUmgU-OtlUvrs  say  no  ri.ht  to  ..„ntn,l 
t  .^,1  ;  .IV  ts  of  wliiskfy-CoiuxTt  at  llaltiinor—  .ov-  for 
1    1         .     ,,  ,     t«  ......i.h'-Tlirir  lovo  for  art-Cou-.Tt  at  WashiUK- 

;    .    '"  ,    „      (•,„i...„-i__\,lvciituro  on  roail  l)ai'k  to  Wasliin;;- 

olr'si^^k^hT  ;:[  U  "    •  Iman  :.;:i"u.t_.'on..,.,.t  at  Washin.ton 

'  Wrts    w  t      1 1  his  la.lv-Mrs.  hinooln-hin.-h.  .lo.s  .mt  «..ar 
;r,  V    i  1  H— -  '^"'l  'laughtor-Concrt  at  Washington-hi.n.- 
t  in   t.(i  n  •;,■  1  (irant  and  statf-(irant  ma.l-  Li.'Ut-nant-  ...n..ra l- 
M  :aui  Variani  sings  '  Star  Hpanglod  "-"-'-^-l-JJl^  i;      ^ 
fill,.,!  with   Kol.li.Ts-rart.'ir.',  l.ox..»,  and  onhrstral  fetalis  -i.'^i'l'" 
?     1  d  V,  onstra.ioi._Syn,.athi/.o  with  South-l.av.  for    ,  -"^  ;^ 
Lu....!!  i.r..v,-iit.Ml  s.-v.-n  or  .-ight  tiin.'S  from  giving  cone    Is  tl.  rt— 
I^^       ,  ;;  ^1  'of    Ilarrishurg-^'on....H    at  >'<'"^t-honso-;.^M|W  o 
of  th-   adics-1'iani.sts,  howarf  l-Charnung  audi..nc.--(  'v"" »  >"" 
ou  rm   I   hv   the   gong-A   rcginu'nt  of    v.-terans-Adv....  uio    of 
M    l.nos.'l  ,.  V..stvali,  'the  Hup.-rh'-"  He  n.-v.-r  plays  hut  hm 
o    n    .nusi.--Liko   th'e  white   man   in  the  "-»'<'  ''.■fj::"^-^^,"^ 
affliotinL'  gift  —  What  Berlioz  sai.l-Criticisin  —  I  ach  -1  -  Mr.  Ko 
Ou-1  V  t-l>.scriptiou  of  Lam^aster-Chnhhy-fac.     ch.Mr,.n-^   'r- 

1  a     maiwu.rs-Change  of  weather-C.-ncrt  at  1  l''^-'^ '••;;.«-  i;^; 

,.ruor  and  Hecr-tary  of  State  Prf^-'^-'*'''^''"'"  '';;,;'!  [,"of 
iH.twcn  Kast  and  W-'st-lVniisylvania  more  polite  tl'-|"/"  '««■ 
;  l,r!uiant  sisfrs-Hethlehem-ViUageH,  towns  in  >"""-  ■;^- 
MagnifRvnt  conrert-Moravian  ^'hurch  and  seminary-A  «ag.,r  A 
proSr  of  music  !-U'it  little  swearing  and  drunkenness       .         .  24. 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Concert  at  Easton— Artists'  room— Ladies  and  gentlemen  of  Bethle- 
lem  accompany  mc-'  Cradle  Song'  sung  in  the  train-l'att.  sing- 
iig  high  tcno.  -Young  girls   dancing  to  late  hour-Leave  He  hle- 
le^u_  Waving   of   handkerchiefs    from   seminary -Sad   s'Kl't«  «* 
Btaton-- Contingent  of  conscripts -Sa<l    partings-The   (}ern|an 
consc    pt- "  Dear  Catherine,  God,  C.od  bless  thee-_rhe  right  of 
these    fatlu-rlcss  families    upon  us  all-Arrived  at  Haltimor.^My 
lo^  fr  en  s  the  Curletts-Sunday  at  high  mass-' Agnus  Dei   sung 
f  "mJ"--  -An  ohl  maid  who  did  police  duty-The  m.s..hievous 
one-Scapegraces-Fortress  Monroe-Oath  of  li.lelity-1  low  taken 
!^Shoemiker  stationer  and  music  seller-Mawkish  English  songs 
developed  hy  tl:e  war-Mel,Klies  adapted  to  t^';'^'^''*'''^  .^^^S 
ruined    spared  tie  '  Mai.len's  Prayer'— A  confession-' 1  he  Uattle 
Crv  of  E'^  on.'  "  >ght  to  become  our  national  air-Sadly  heroic- 
r^'t"f--Vu,gm  nts,  how  formed-Slander  and  calumny-The  first 
f^l      The     V.cr  nursed  hy  the  jealous-Ma.z.olini-Ovat.on  to  Hrig- 
no  i-Boe  hoveu  aa  symi-honist,  as  composer  for  the  p.ano-Beet- 


XVI 


coyn:yTs, 


rviB 


I  f  iiiii.ili'iiiT' —    isn  III;;,  rciiii.-v  n  .im.i — ■ •    ^  . 

^.r  .   Lr  or  .1...  .own  plav.  r.ma.y  on  Ho;  lU.l.  t''!-  '-;!;; 

Wil  ianiMiort-l'-nnsvlvMnla  ll..'  li.li-t  ol  Hi-  Mnt..-   ,■.■!  linnwiy 
S^liakustli— I'ul'liu  will  lio  flioiilf.l  this  ev.ning       • 


CHArTKK  XV. 


_Au    -Saxon    iu>n;:iMatiou    not   M.tli.i..ntly    a.fvj.-l.c'av,     .^ .u- 

!,„■    _\    nionn,...--T>o   not    iH'li.'V    in    w< "    w'"'   »^'^';  ^   '!""• 

1    ,r~_So       g  a.oH-I-is/t,   Clioi-in,   an,l   t!,,.  (i,.nnans_(l,opm'« 

^:;S:';o;,;^.;"-.Cy-l^,.ular  in ;.  /,;■-;;:.„;;- j:[,;:,';.£ 

.,,l„rs-Co".v.t  at  l!rn..klyn-Str.n«ay  ,.n,l      '''  l^'    •'^- ',  '       ''^ 


\rtwl  iM'ih't  IS   muinMii    --i   i.i.^  ..■•■ .... 


couiijany  iUul'S 


.  2G4 


co\ti:m>i. 


XVU 


ill- 
-All 

IH 

nill- 
IliH 

n'crt 
I  out 

.•Ul'l 
n  I'nr 
n,i:iy 
U    to 


[rish- 
luticr    ' 

lull  — 
toll — 

■■uiia- 

Cllll- 

iiilm- 
ili'iirs 
N.^w- 
tlii'ir 
Hiiii's 
a.lv— 
nil"   ill 

lli'l|illS 

'.  'M'"'- 
iiiiiary 
laii.l— 
S|ili'ii- 
inilV— 

rnliccrt 
I  licaril 
lli>li(ii) 
-Wliat 
ii-a,-.'.! 
lllrl-  nil 
[ildarll- 

itti  mill 
atrint — 
isi'  vlio 

jichl'iMlrt 

artist  a 

ifts  liko 

tlio  iii- 

;iL;ali(iii<l 


rilAI'TKU  XVI. 


r.titi 


ll.i.k  trn,„  tli.M'.m.'.Tt— n.'nutifiil  .■(V.Mt  „r  rl.-nntly  .lr..(.>..Ml  l;i.li..s— 
l.;„,.|isl,  ..Ilir.TM  <U;-^s,;\  t..  atliart  atl.nlinn-K.K.M-  n.-tliiiiK  ni-ro 
il|.|„v,l   thai,  a  fMsl.ini.al.l.'   I':n;;lisl.ii.aii,  mil.'-*-'  it   !"•  I«m  lasl.Km- 

„|.l..   V     •;>l,iM...,-S 1.1   .-"'■.■"■t,  Mil   ,,i.r..s  ,.n.„,v,l-->un«l.in.. 

I'Mlti— Wliat  a  iM'antifnl  tiling  iii..,li.iii.'  iHl— Aniv  at  1  ivM-,tt— 
|.i.-l,t  vari  a-..— MM.Iauh-  .!,•  I.a-niup— Invit.^l  to  tak-  luiwl.-- 
nTki.oVii  iiain— Kn,lia.,t,.,l  1,„„.,._  Its  ii.istn.Hs- An  u.  an  ilo 
i„„„vssioi,-(iraii.Maii-l.i.Tof  V,.s,.Mr.i,.s-Mran,l..loi.  tli,.  ImmKs 
„,;,„,  St.  |,a«ivii,v- N,it  tn'atr.l  with   r,.s|H.,t-l',iivious  iii-.tlMrs— 

liuhiMi-Ma.laiii.'M.Tliii-Wliat  lias  1 on. '  l.,.|— ron.v.t-.Not  ft 

I,,, aiLli,.. I.i.t  svn.pathot'i,— Anvst.Ml-A.liHirahlo  caii.loi.,-  of 

lli.rinsti r  tlo'  |M.a"rr— .liistic..  wU   a.lniiiiislo.-..,!  |_>i,l,.n— Imii- 

l,a,k    tVon.    Kin>.'slon  for  Capo  St.  Viiir..nt-Stiakosrh   •"''■■■'-•;'''<-;» 

..ai.si/.,..!  srh .,.r-l{.niin.lo,l  of  tho  .loatl.  ot  a  l.orso  in  a  hi.     Il-l.t 

_I  ■init  at  faio  f*t.  Vin.oiit— A  lamlloid's  wc^honi.— li.a.  Ii  W  ator- 
,„«.ii— (iivo  n.ii.vrt  at  s.^von  o'clock  on  aoconnt  of  wo.kin-nici.  rt 
l,all— TiriMl  ,„.t— rtica— Hoantili.l  .•l.iir.lo's— As.vlm..  l.ir  tli-  m- 
Naii. —  lloa.l  iilivsirian  oiio  of  onr  iTioii.ls  — Coiiroit  and  warm 
iiu.licnr.— Sloop  "at  ho-pital  h.v  invitation  of  tl.o  .|o,|ni->pii  itnal 
,i.a.iilo>tations— Til.  haunt,..!  hoii>,.-Tlw  fw..  y..n.i-  ni.M.-Un.M.la 
,,„„„„„„itv  — liivit.'.l  t..  visit  th.Mn— 1-ill.MMl  l.nii.lr...l  a.rosol  stiaw- 

l„.ni,.s— Svia.ns Ha.l    l.ot.'l-liailioa.l   .i-.wsinj.'s— A    provMoii.'-i 

lor  Am.Mi.aii  raiUvavs— Syra.nso  always  t;iv''s  w  fi  k"""'  iiii'ln'ixo 
—Osw.M'o  ri'inarkahl"..  lor  its  siU.ati..n— Alwa.vs  j.lay  with  pl.^asiir.) 
at  (isw.^'o— 1)..  not  coii.lii.lo  till' r.MiMpts  p„,,|— On.-  thiii-  ni.moy 
.■aiinot  nil.— <i.'n..va— l.ak.s  of  Now  Voik  — A  .lysp.^pti.^  Kn;^lisli 
niiisi.ian— Aiihiini— Channin-  l.attalioii  of  yoiin;;  ^'irls— "  1  have 
not  vt  hoar.l  oiio  air"— Tho  t;olii'ral  who  ivcou'iii/os  Imt  two  aiis— 
A  rolatioii  l.v  oiioof  niv  friomls— '  Ilonio,  Swo.-t  Homo  — Anlmrii  — 
"lioafonin-'ra.kothoniakos  with  his  piaii.."— i »  rritns  :— (  atholio 

cliuroh  — Kx.TiahIo  nuisii Uooln-stor  — Clianniii^'  town  —  Mionl'l 

liki'  to  transport  sonio  of  my  anilioncos  to  Hmopo— I'.nmiiiio  typo 

in  tho  Cnitoil  Statos  siiporior  to  that  of  Kiiio,,.— Tlioir  iiilln.^ n 

„„.„_Most  .•haniiiii-  tvpos  of  womoii  at  lioihost.M— Tho  oloniont  1 
foar  Mil'  most  in  niv  loiic.rts— Joy  of  tho  i,„in,snr,il Mr.  X.,  a  sup- 
position—Alwavs  'tho  samo  son-— Thoso  who   h.iv th.n-  to  loso 

;„.„  t„„is_M..nto  Mayor  uiul  Nowtoii  a  fool-I  know  an  ass  .— \  ol-  _^__ 
tairo's  apostropl.o •  • 


.  277 


204 


CIIAPTKR  XVII. 

Loavo  IJocl.ostoi— liooomnionil  '  Conoivss  Lall'-Airiv.-  at  Lo.kport— 
I'oi.rs  rain-1'Vw  at  .onrort— IM.I  my  h.^st— My  pri.i.ipl.— W  ho 
ii.it  a  trno  artist— li.si.iration  iiiiloponilont  of  will— Nt  out  ai;ain  tor 
Caiiaila  — That  .ui-s.mI  p..n^'  — Custon.  ovorytl.in-— Aimtlior  l.-at 
torn  fn.ni  tho  troo  of  mv  Uliisi.ns— Catlioli.-  ohiiivh— (  oiitrast  ho- 
two.Mi  tho  sormoii  aii.l  tho  fa.ts— A  .Iroaiy  month  ol  May— A  <lia- 
triho  a.'ainst  fashioiiahl.'  miisi. — Not  as  olovatnl  as  tho  iiii.si.'  ot 
tho  Clnisty  miiistrols— Noglfct  of  our  a-ont— Insult— Coiivoisutioii 


XVMl 


COSTKSTS. 


PtilR 


Hi,  .!.    •'  M>.!va.oi,v,  say  in,  tl.U  A,.|,..i,.a  .van  ll..  -;;•  ^'^^  '; 

is^a  'nit  .,1  with  Ur,.' -  Tr,.n..,.au  ,l,vn,,.s  lus  atl-nti-m    o 

I:;:;;,vAn'!:.■i^an-l^^v,■r-Ki.■ora-l^..,u,,..•.-Ma...unuuv..-^.la-_^^^ 

tun  -(iriilas  ilclight  in  iiuirtio 

ciiAi'TKU  xvni. 

T,.n.nt,..  Cana.la-Snv-H.  ..on..,.r.-Cunv,.rsatin„   ^-'^l--:^;;J^:;Z 
I),  .,    Imi.'IwIl  .'riitlnii.'ii— S  i.irk  til  .(/»"»/•/'<■"/"■■— 1  "ii-li  '  lU,!""  \ 

^.  W    ,.n  ti.U.ts  shunLt  U-  sol.r-' John  Marvin,.,,,,    h     •;;;:->- 

:  r,"  ,ir'-''t'ull,vt,,r  of-  ll.r   Ma.i.Hty's   ..,>st...us    -   wo    l^a  ...« 

His:a^ss;^>;i'!r;;;-^^^^^^^^ 

^ T''-^;':r :::;;  ;i;;^l^:;:;;,s:,!;*':ri:rr  n:;::i,l;ri;r r  • 

,    i„„l..,.t.-nM.  Pop-  a   n.arty.— <ia.il.aM>  a  In.'l.way  rol,l„.,- 
kv    w    i    U.,  au,lsi„i  ...ixi.- K.v,K.h,,ronuM,.,a.,o,H_>a,n,. 
|„.;Vr  CaMaila-A.-aiu  travllin,'    att.r  Ion,  ■•'■P"--  'l^T  ,,  [ 

r,.i,os..-Charity  co,„-..its   an.l    la,  y    P''»''';"''%'"-^'\V    ^'l,,,,,, 
A  so..iat.,l  Co-Mpany  of  Artists,'  T.^ta  an,l  ,v,  ,•_>    lam.  A  -.oa  o. 

^^^;J'     ^.^'^iV  ai   l^ai.vu,/(<.maaa)-lnaioul.ms  s.vn.s-^ 

■ssof  tl.r   Kn.'lisl.  .(.rporal,  ii.,tvvitl,stan,ln.!,'  a  i';'to  too  Ixjil'-'- 
oss  oi   in.     i-n    u.  .1        1  '      .,,.,,.. 1,1, ,,„.,.  „,,i,|.r     Haiinahand—Uos- 

S;;,:„r.;;ji:xn;ir-.";:7^::s;s.;-M;.u.-N..r.„mi.,.iu 


r 


io.\n:.\Ts. 


is9 


\n,..ri,.a-Wl.o  mor..  or  1-.-   Ilk.—Ti.knor  \   Kl.l.U.  Ilawth.-rn... 

, I     ,       l„l H.  VVI,itti,.,-lM.O,lH  ,u..l  ll...   Ii.l.lli;:.'..!  ,..•....".■...>•.. 

.■„ll...tl,mol  i,ul..wia|ili^— l»i,k.'iiss  i„;.n.M.ii|.(-\Mial  lik.— Il.m 

;,,,,..,',,„    ,.n,l    MUll'li.i.V    Mi. 1    Mt_Wlnl    II.Mn„    ,„,.s,.....H   UM.l 

\,.w   V..ik   .ln,.s   iH.t— M; 111.'   N'w    Voik— n|M.n.   m   ^"^\,V';  .'^7■ 
,.,„„;,.,t_'-l'.Kir  liillr  lliiiiK!" 

CHAI'TKll  XIX. 

„„r  .•lvili/..tini,-.\,iMt.Kri.ti.'  |.riv.i.,'-s_M.  iMVuur  ol  tl">  ^rU  h^.^-.l^.m 


"   ..vn.ptin   |„.>uliar.as..s-Ain...iran   last-     omm^'  l.i,  .  .•-• 
TI  '    l  la   in'   of  a  p.„,..ation  of  ynMng  prls-ri,.v-la.„l  out:l,l    o 

Jw      ,    Jnv,.n„.o\^.llini.ifl,on.inU,..r.u.,.as.^^^ 


,,„„i;.in„  of  tl,iM;;s  in  tlo^  fnit.'.!  f""'-'^— 'l;'  ''!  '' 


vi'ix'il  in  liliTa- 


;;;;:;:  o    1  '-v,;niVh;.Vo  ;u.i„i,.o,i  m.  a..  v"-..in.._H,.,  out 

£:.,,!  :,_.i,.,.,U  ...rnfast  .,..tw,.,.u  tlo.  W..st  an,l  .In-  '-^  "--^ 
.ont.n.pt  fo.  fa>l,ion  an,l   ,„.atn,.^s-Chi.a^'o  a  way>    1,..  ctN  .1       o 

Vv  ,  t-Moon.,>n,l  Sn,itl,V  n.w  hall  inat>j;n,-al,.l-llall  ;■'■•'    ',""■;'';     ? 

di.,  .0    ol.l-'Tmnont  llous.  -S.., ,1  ronn-H  la.y..  l.vll.ant    an,l 

;.h,sias,i,-Tlu..ann,.rwl -ns  s,.v...y-.  nv.    l.msa,.    a^  .  of 

nraM,^  lan.l-S.M  in  lot  twrnty  tlionsan.l  hoal  V  ,  V"  '  '"' 

n  i.Mnti.'  ranal-N.'W  Ara.l.^niy  of  Mnsi.  In'inf,'  Inull  l.y  (  n-l.N- 
X„'i  t  u-  i.  s  «  itl.out  ..nf;aK-n>..nts-Attark-.l  for  vlay.nj,  (  Inrk- 
^  ;;«  i-ianos-llon-s,  ..IHor  not  ..././,  in  .na.t,.  o,  ...n.,.  .- 
Ti.aUM.ru'  ana  Hranl's  ,,i.„os-('h..pin  an,l  '" --V"' >- ^^•^''  '  ' 
iV,  '  r^l.l{,..,<,,n^  «hv— Wliv  1  like  Cliirk.'iinK  s— Nin.ln>k>--no- 
M  i,  1,  of  .n.-lM,oi,_l>o,nlation-rHKl.tlnl  a.-.m-Lan- 
:  n u  '  n  'i"hl.oM>h..oa-/;.  •:>,>.  !>.•  l...o,ia-Tl...  rr.M„lm,an  an.l 
t  :onIa.^-iaa.,o_Fi,lUin,  with  tlu.  ina  ans_WoM.,^y  H  - 
Tl„.  Ml.tlorn.  -iv.s  a  v...-li-o— Kn.i.M  ..t.on  to  II.-  A\';t— W  1.'  >'  ." 
i,|:;_ri>.'i..nati-l!n,..M  ll-mso.  ,lirty  a,.,l  ,l,.ar-lM.yMogno,..y  of 
WVstern  pcopK— Thoi.-  fi-.'o  ami  .'asy  l.-Lavionr       .... 


312 


tl-vf  I 


XX 


coxTEyrs. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

PAng 
Krcntzcr  sonata  of  Bopthovpii— N.'Wsi.ap.T  rriticiam— Mozart  Hall— • 
Kxpcriciii'c  of  tlii>  r>w<.Miish  doctor— Kxccssivc  cold—'  Moiit   lilaiu- 
and  '  Vonng  M.mis  Association' at  Detroit— !St.  Lonis— D.-t.-ntion  on 
i..i;)r,)H,l— tV)ninion  roads— Tli.'  trne  cause— Cold  int,'nst — The  '  Lm- 
(IcU   House'- Hhould   lik.   it  better  if— Morelli  and   I  search  fiir  a, 

restaurant The  artist's  intention— Inspired  artist  like  a  key-hoard 

— Siirin.'tiehl.  Illinois— Audience  listen,  Imt  too  late  I— Hypocrisy 
and  vanitv'— S.'nniui  at  St.  Louis— lUoomiuKton  (Illinois'  -"Do 
vou  want  the  portrait  of  Chuckle  and  his  wife  .'' — Two  poor  nuns- 
All  chauiliers  taken!— Lie  down  on  the  tloor— .loliet,  last  year  the- 
atre of  a  s.'andalous  action— What  a  tour  in  the  W.-st  reciuires- Fair 
concert  at  Joliet— Curious  incident— Dohler  relates  his  interviews 
—Set  out  afiain- Tho  placard,  caution  !— Christy  Minstrels'  Ailver- 
tiseinent — The  deail  horse  covered  with  placards— American  lures 
— Kalamaz.  '  (Michigan)— Excellent  hotel— Charming  concert— Ue- 
spectal.le  audience— Leave  for  Ann  Arhor— State  I'liiversity— The 
famous  singer,  (ioodstock  !— L(mdon,  Canada— Concert— Canadian 
receipts— The  1st  of  .January— Mr.  Kdmiind  Harris  and  faiidly— 
rrais(>  of  Morelli— The  telegraplii.;  dispatch— The  knight  of  the  ra- 
2,,,—Leave  for  New  York  by  first  train— Passports  reciuired— Ih'.r- 
rislmrg — Coiict'rt  in  court-room — Siberian  cold — Artists'  room — 
Dayton  (Ohio)— Kxeellent  andienci — Fine  examide  of  cold  on  hu- 
man nature — Thi'  letter  at  Hethlehcm— The  concert  at  Wilmington, 
Delawar. — Mu/.io  visits  the  music  store-^My  violin— Headache  — 
The  letter  from  the  ladi.-s- Want  of  delicacy— Two  stones— The 
tJascon— The  paralytic  lady  and  the  Englishman    .         .         .         .323 


La 


CHAPTER  XXL 

Toledo— Oliver  House,  one  of  best  in  the  United  States— Xew  York- 
Heard  Miss  Kellogg  for  first  tiim — Charming  artist— A  matter  ol 
pndc — Powers,  I'aliners,  Miss  Stebbins,  Church,  JSierstadt,  etc.-  - 
Poe's  tales— Cooiier-Irving— That  cliciue  of  imbeciles— What  they 
say- l!ai>haei  and  Fornarina— Hyroii — Let  mo  be  understood— Rem- 
brandt—Victor  Hugo— Dickens— Works  of  the  artist  not  responsible 
for  his  private  lift — New  York  Philharmonic— Poor  Poe — TIk-  mute 
ins*ruiiients— Dunkirk— Conversation  between  two  ladies— AiKithor 
amusing  thing  at  St.  Louis— 0  truth,  why  art  thou  not  pet ro- 
l,.,„„|_Sui)erb  concert  at  Rochester— Hatavia— Erie— Struck  with 
a  snow  ball— No  enthusiasm,  reason  why— Erie  to  Lockport,  off  the 
rails- Invariable  i)hrase  of  the  conductor— Lockport  faithful  to  its 
ti-adition— rtica,  as  always— Visit.'d  all  my  good  frien(l 
II,..  K Visited    insane   asylum — Aunt    Libbey 


-Her    dress— 


The  Queen  of  England  enchanted  to  visit  her— Playing  and 
in<'in  the  Asvlum— Aunt  Libby  plays— L 's  eonsternation- 


■ii'S- 
-Tho 


lady  betrothi'd  to  (Jen.  Washington,  and  beciue.ithed  by  him  to  all 
the'presi.leiits  of  the  riiite<l  States— HulValo— Charming  audi.'uci'— 
Syracuse  cold— What  the  newspaper  says— What  warms  up  an  audi- 
ence—Commencement of  concert  like  lirst  stage  of  a  grand  dinner— 


coy  TEXTS. 


XXI 


Audioncc  and  artist — AVliat  tVatuvi's  1 — My  Sappho— What  a  fall — 
Leave  lur  Calil'driiia  with  Miizic  ai'.tl  wit'. — "  1  will  make  a  trip  U> 
youth  .Viueriea" — When  are  vou  fjoin;,'  .' — Iiupressarici  ami  the  l>la- 
carils-  Oh;  ho!  1  thouirht  you  had  left  — nisapiioiiitecl  fellow  artists 
— Su'ilii,  Jenny  hind's  afient — Tlie  predestined  om — Farewell  .on- 
cirts  at  New  York — Hnihurk  on  third  April  <in  hoard  of  Ariel — 
Parting — Sea  siekness — four  hundri'd  passengers — .Most  heteroge- 
neous assenililagi' — Singers  and  aetors  and  I'nited  States  uiai'shal  — 
Judgi — Lawyers — Senators  ami  doctors — Ministers,  wlio  jireaeh 
ol!i(Tally  ami  otlicioiisly— Flirtation— Twu  hrides— liife  on  hoard- 
Bill  of  ftu'o 


33G 


CHArTER  XXII. 

Land  in  sight — Aspinwall — Negro  jiorters — Negress  frnit  selle.s — 
Howard  hotel  and  the  piano-  '"rain  leaves — The  road— Fanners' 
huts — Arrive  at  J'anania — Lai.ness  of  inhahitants — Houses  and 
cathedral,  all  dilapidated — An  adroit  jirestidigitateur — Apathy, 
laziness,  and  lilth  everywhere — Steamer  Constitution — Heat  exees- 
s,ivo — Isle  of  I'earls — I'earl  lishing  dangi'rous — Not  slejit  for  three 
<lays  —  the  'squatters'  worse  thiin  niosciuitoes  —  •]? flats' — The 
sU'wanl — l!es<'iuhh's  hotid  at  Ht.  Louis — Dull  monotony  on  ship 
board — Heat  like  that  of  a  lead  foundry — Air,  air,  1  suthieate  I — 
jvpiseopal  servile — New  bride  appears  ofteni'st  wher<'  husband  is  not 
— I'asseDgers  liml  their  levid— Singers  quarrel — Harmony  among 
musicians  impossible — One  hour  and  a  half  at  table. — The  dinner — 
Between  the,  courses  I  go  on  deck — (ieographical  dictionary  taken 
for    a    Bible — Honeymoon    and    threats    of   a    revolver — Acapuleo, 

Mexico^Tako  in  coal  here — Indians  ami  eai s — Bay  infested  by 

sharks— The  little  Indian  girl — Had  lu<'k  to  me— //cnHasn  cttnillin) 
looks  like  a  pin-cushion  — Houses,  streets,  and  cathedral — The 
'  l'adre"--Th(^  paper  above  the  image  i>f  a  saint — Hx-voios — hnnio- 
bilitv  everywhi'rc — The  guard  house — Questions — I'on  Diego  Alva- 
rez—Louisiana Hotel  and  its  landlord — Hut  on«^  nati  ui,  humanity, 
out  one  cinintry,  the  globe— Thi!  landlord,  an  old  Frenchman — He- 
-lunts  all  his  alfairs — What  he  said  of  the  little  prodigy  (Jottsehalk 
— l!eeonnu<'nds  his  tavern — The  thin  waiter — Ah  1  I'aris,  sir — Dis- 
covery, the  landloril's  wife  The  son  of  Dim  .luan  Alvarez,  his  wife 
and  (iaughter — How  dres.icd — Steamt>r  in  sight — Tln^  '(iolden  City' 
— "Lee  has  snrrende'ed"' — Lincoln  has  been  assassinated — Wilkes 
Bdoth — Atl'ecting  sigl  t  (Ui  board  the  ('(Uistitntion— Women  those 
wl>  >  show  the  least  1  egrets — Tin;  judge  weeps  as  if  he  ha<l  lost  a 
fa.>..„- — All    the    men  crushed,  overwhebned — Women's  irrational 

impulses — Men  and  women    compared — The  female    s ssionist — 

The  meeting  (11!  board— Presided  over  by  Judge  Field  of  the  Supreme 
Court  of  the  United  States — An  a])ostrophe  on  Lincoln — Hymn 
of  the  Hepulilic  by  the  Italian  singers — I  play  my  piece  *  Union' — 
Tog — Singular  impatieucc  of  passt-ugurs 


3-19 


xxu 


COyTESTS. 


CILM'TKR  XXIII. 


PMlB 


Shall  bo  at  Pan  Franoiseo  to-.lay-S.al  I!,„k-T!u.  'fl.ff  Hm.so - 
)  rt  'A  .■atru/-Th.-  m;,,!,!...  ,1.,..'_  Hay  of  Han  iTaiw-.s.- o- 
T,.l,s.-..n.lstU,.  hays  of  Na,>l.s  au.l  <^;"^'''"''"\M'l''--;'';'   ;'-,'- 

_a;  n!  a'll'',  S„ral,.s,  l.hry.u-Cow.ls  hav.  only  mstnut-K.nj; 

i„'m-   I'liiliil"'  an.l   Louis  Naiu,! ,_llow  tl..' i>oiMilanty  ol   I.oms 

Sol-  •  1 'i^m-Mr.  Ba.lg.T,  fln.k...in.,-s  a,'..n.-fos„>o,,obt  u 
i;,r..l_Tl,.-  anst  in  .<an  Kran-isoo-Tl...  '  Cosnioi-ol.tan  a  n.a^-u,- 
,i,.,.„t  ...li;ic..— Cliiikoiin-  i.iano  in  ladirs'  ,.ail..ui  — llo^  wait.Ms— 
Tl  ,  hi!  of  fan— Not  .-asilv  .•au^ht-Hrillat  f<avar.n_(  o„k,.,y, 
i    sJ   Inul  paintin,  in  ,l,o  rnit,-.l  ^^ta.,-s-Tl.o   In.Uan  an,l  ,.,ano 

v..    1, !,  „f  lioston— Uo  vnii  un.loistana  my  con.panson  .'— 1  m) 

1,,.:;  "sin.n.r  in    tln^    worl.l.  now  known  t-Tl,..  In.lian,   ahvays  tl.o 
,a  ,n-lVs..,i,,tio„  of  San  lMan..is..o-Tlu.alr,^,  ohs-Ma^juHv- 
Zov     a.  ,1„.  lu.nnaplno,Ut..-Cales  ".oro  nupulUvnt  tl.an  H,os,^o^ 
v.:,v    io,k-<'alil'""ia  win.— Markets  of  >an  l-.-an.  is.  >— ^uuts- 
M     .s    .    .opp-r,  silv.T,   an.l  ,,.1.1  in,.xl.austil,l..-Opals-MKns-  of 
,,    r.  l.Mun-Minin-  vi.tin,s-Hxp.M.s..s  an.l  n..v...--..n,in,i. ...... ..;s 

.  i  tl„s.:  wl,..^.n.l...tak.-  nunin^-Ifnto  ..f  int.-.vst  ,n  C  al,t..,n,a 
_^T Ini  al  I)up.mt  an.l  his  lawsnit-Mr.  Li.'k-li.vat  a.lvan...  u 
r..;^  S:.., -m!.ss.s.  lU.l...r  an.l  Lin.i..rb..r,..,-Is  ..;>'-;■-;;  -  ; 
,l,.;„,„l  '_CoM,-.-it>  at  San  Kian.is.-o  n..v.M-s.Knv.l.'.l-<»l'^  H  'H  .  u.l 
S„.  k.'s.h-l'anl  .Inli.-n-fin.u.  ll.,n.ish..s-M.ss  A.la  M..nk... - 
T  .  rhin.-s..,  Sam  K...',  .Irn-ist-My  intr.Hlu.tn.n  to  l.nn.  lus  s  .s- 
,  ;„nLTh.'  ri.h  .•hin..s..  an.l  his  ''^u.,ht..v-A...m,^  t.,  carry  h,. 
oir-B..si.gc.s  put  t..  llight-Slif  is  s..nt  hack  to  C  h.na    .         .         •  JO- 


CHATTER  XXIV. 

Intro.ln  ■...!  t..  M.  .h'  Cazoth,  iM-.u'h  ..„nsul-rnf...t.u.at.^  oreatur-s 

'^      ,:       ,1.,.  (•r,..sns,.s..f  San  K,-an..isn.-K.vn..l.  c.ounu..,..al    -oum. 

-Small  nuo,:..r  ..f  p.vtty  w.nn,.n_Magu„e's  <M'<""7?';  ij    ,7'!' 

n.t    a.lmiiv    V.T.li   tl.  ..x.M.ss-l-'i.s.   .■.■p'"s.'^talnm  ol  -h. nan      at 

P  u^i  -Ma.lan...  M..nn....h..t  .1..  Barival-'l o  .ntuMS..  an  op-.a  a^..l  h. 

■  .p..s..  ..n..,  two  .iim.r..nt  thiu,s-A.vu.,.  »'>  {-"''^;;;; ;:;-  J^^ ; 

i,,„  ;  „iani-t— ■  Tannhausor-  arran-.'-l  by  mys.'lt  t-i   ■  nrt. .  n  pi mos 

nvonl-.is  an.l  lin.lshis  piam.n.nt.— Ilis  .•onnt..naii.'.'->.'.r.'t  at  1.  st 

is.  .TMl  ..!■  snppos,.,l  t..  hav..  I n-Mass  at  Kn'u.h  ..Inuvh-l  1  o 

.■ts  fro  1  Auv..r.'n,._A  s..rm.m  whi.'h  w.,uM  hav..  h..,.n  fjr.. -s.^i  e 
^  ::',  !;:!li-";v.:r,hy..f.h.-.^..h..li.M-..!i.i..n-Vir.in  ;r..y^V^^^^ 
t  n-it..iv-Thc  h,.t..l  .l.Mk  i.upu.l.M.tly  pon,p..us-l  I..' iMvn.  h     .st.m 

raut-kl-l.er-Ugly  town-Must  inho.i.itahlo  u.ul  sa.l.l..st  I  hav  .,■  ov  or 


i 


COyTKXTS. 


XXUl 


siMMi— Kimilv  from  N.«w  Orloaiis  an.l  yonii-  Lonisi.iMi.-uis— Snn|lay 

,,,,,  X'O    -'-111  '■"■•  ""••"'  aays-lMVMl,  iMli.Uls  au,l  tl„.  sn.nll  vn- 

L-rharitv.  ,..t„.rosity,  a,.a  kiM,ln..ss_L,.av..  tor    .ay'on  ...  th. 

St.,.',— Wliat  took  plan,  .m  tin'  ,-„a.l— Ai-nv  at  Dayt.m-  1 1..   h.ill, 

i..,w   li.rl,t,Ml-.-U,..-  ai.,li....cc-Calif...-nia  n.i.i.Ts-.'.'tH.n....,  -In-Jit 

LMy  lia..,  back  .ploi.ai.l— The  It.d.aii  girl  aud  licr  lovui— ^.ul  l.it...  o,i> 


302 


CHAP'Ili:il  XXV. 

L,.av<- Vir-'inia  Citv— Uud.'iic-srt  at  stap'om.',.— Amialil.' r.M.i.lo  !— Tli.i 
lmasra';M.-<»CiMistia..ity!-Th,-  l.uly  at  tl..-  back  onnplan.s- 
'ni.t.b    Flat'    a    i.ivtty  villa-.— (•......■.•t-\.ulb..io.   vt'iy   <im,.t- 

'Tak.'i.  in'.'— l':ir,.ft..f  .•.•itai.i  i.as«a,t:oH— Wh.at   I   )..•! ivo  b,. y— 

Artisti..  ifinora....-,  a..  ..xa...i.l.-  of  it-S'ick  for  tl.r....  ..ays-.Nowb.M-.. 

h,  lu.-op.--..l'l  lb,,  so  isolat,.,l  a.   I....'0-Wbat  1  bav,.  ."■;■;-•;<' 

:"untrv'of  ...o.n.y  not   tbo  on.   for  artiHt-Kro.u  ;  1  n.,h   Hat'   to 
Nova.la  Citv-A.li.m  t,.  iny  spbvn-'  (i.'ass  V  alb-y   ,a.ann.n^— N  - 
va.laCitv-l'in,-s,.a,'iousl.ot,.ls-C,.nc...-tatT,;n.i.,.ran,...  Iball-lb, 
a«.li-m-.-ll.av,.  ah-,.,a,ly  .'iv,.n  twolv.  con...rts.-l  af;.n,.  a..,l,l,u,.,'. 
of  tl.,.«,-  trav,.ls-Califor.>ia  a  l.nn.bi.g  -T.-  tbonsan.l    ••"""" 
tbinu'H  wantin^-I.,siv,.  o..  st,.a.....r  Julia  for  Mo,-kto..-\\  ,a«r  Hot,'! 

_St.K.kt,.n  .•..s...nbl,s  f;a.'ran.,-..t„„..  a  small  s,ab.-(  onn^rt  sinal  - 
.hi.l.',.  r„,l,.rbill— I'astor    llapp,M-s.-lt— N.^wspaiu'r   c-onchi^b's    tiat 
"I^^l,.  not  know  how  t,.  i.lay  th,!  pian-.-'-Insane  hosp.t.'.l— 1  !»• 
((,.nnan  ba.-o..-('olfnx-' Who  th.'..  is    th.s  CoMax  .' -1  .-s.int.Ml 
on  n.v  fa,,  -lay  with  a  spl-n.lia  ,n..,lal-lt.  .l..sonpt,o..,  a.,    al    th„ 
details   of   th.-  pr,'s,.ntatio..-lts   ,.o:;,'.-()n  b,.ar,l    tb.-  (  ,.l,.ia,l,>- 
(Vast  ,.f  (',.sta  Hi,.a-l'...>'ato.'y~\Vl.at  not  :-L>'ft  San  l.ra..,;.s.oou 
ti„.  iMli— ll-s-it  suir.M'at;..-— Ma-niti,.i.nt  n.oonli;,'bt  s,.,-i...— 1  n,'  pas- 
..........s—Kinf-  Ka...,.ha.n,.ha  V.  and  the  San.lwich   ls!MU,U-M-.n- 

do/.H-Cuptain    CM.k-Kanak    n^litri-m- Polygamy -Nsfis    a,.,l 
a...'ht,.rs  wiv,.s-(iu,vn   Kala.ua-Only  the  n.oth,;r  win;  .......jbl-s 

—llm.oUiIu-Vi.-toria.  sist,.r  of  pi-.-s.-nt  ki..g -Lnilo.'.n  ,>  th,.  k.n;,' 
-'ManzaiiiUo,'  a  M.-xh^an  t,.wn-l'ir,"i.'>-«  a'.,!  y'^'^'i^ ^"'"'■;"^ 
-\  monst.-,n.s  to.-toist— An  in.p,'rial  s,.l,l.,.r— A,.apul,.,i— nnl>  .i 
small  boi-on-h— Tl.,'  Kre.K.h  ivturnud  horo— Mox.oan  sol,l.,-rs— U.e 
goner;',! '. — What  town  depniiulated 


388 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

l'.inaina-Isla..,l  of  ToIwko— A  boat  oon.,-s  for  us-NeKroport.-rs-Suc- 
,.,.,m1  in  ,.olb.,tinu'  niv  trunks— What  is  s,.,.n  on  th,-  i-oa.l— lb,.  oM 
t„«„— Ol.l  .1,'snit  ,„il,.i:— liuins,  rui..s— Th,-eath,Mlral— 1  h..>tr,.,.ts 
_\spinwaU  IIot,.l— l'i-,.ni..na,l,.  ,m.  the  lamparts— I  b,'  l.i\  UMibl.-s 
,n.l  tl.,'ir  ai.iifor.M— A  eon.vrt  by  siibsc'ripti,*..— Cotta-.-  pian,.,  a 
hvbri,l-The  ..lin.ate— The  ,.r,.si,l,.nt  of  the  Stat,— Mis  n.otb,..-  an 

„l,l  n -ess— His  f.ab..r,  hish,ip  of  Panama— A  p.-etty-i.l.  .lan-hter 

of  ,l„.^,ri,-st-Th,.   Fr,.n,l.  n.nsnl,   Mr.  1),- Y— (Vramie  a.;t  of 

the  Indians  fr.mi  Chiriiiui— (iolden  ornaments  from  (  hiri,im— the 


XXIV 


coyjEyTS. 


hnpiiv  idoa  of  the  nsont— T?ic1iii<'ss  of  oxen  vat  ions  at  riiirii|iii— Ilor 
ril)l.-"tast.'of  till-  Spanish  rrli^ion— Tli.-  i.irtiiiv  ri'i-iv^i-ntini,'  I'lirKii 

■  .■  i<  II     ...      «..      I.I   ...^.      *!..>      i.i..>i.^* till 


till'  <ii>|is! — The 
i'it;ni'is — iMifjlish 
Inillan  l'IiI  with 


tory  (.') — Sii|ii'i-stitious  facniiTs — How  to  hh'ss 
]Mii>iilation — rnriviii/.i'ilanilifinoraiit — I)ri'ail>r!> 
«ti-anuT—Voyaf;o  to  hiiua— Holy  cargo— Th.'  Iiltl 
lar-c  lilaik  fvi's-Simr  gi-aiii-s— tiood  sist.'is  sini;  rantirli'ri — lioat 
rofks  sini'ularly— Caiitii'li'S  intrrniiitoil— Ivllfct  on  tin-  I'olisli  ami 
l'iTuvian''i.rii'sts— The  liltl.-  Italian  La/.arisI— Wliat  s.'a-si.knfss  is 
_i'ro.'cssion  at  (iuatmiala  .luring  Holy  W.'ok—  llorrilih'  |.art  ol  it  — 
I'avta— Kxtraorilinarv  ariailv— .Misery  ami  lilth— Th-  slui.  s  liiil.-t 
—kir.'L't  of  arrival  on  passrhgers— Liltlo  prii'st  h.Toni.s  iilayliil— 
M.l-'ournifrsrcpU'  to  thi;  aWii.— In  harliour,  Callao,  nowharl—  ho 
IVrnvian  nmnitor--Vrigato  'La  Nnmani'la-— I'.'rnvian  soMn-rs— I  ho 
BistiTs  ,l,.light.Ml—AiiiM'arani;eofCallai>— Train  alMint  to  start— lh« 
countrrffit  coin— Waiting  for  gratnity— Kirst,  siroml,  ami  third 
class  cars— Kv.Tvthing  linishiMl  hen — Lima— Ucscrii.tion  of  l.iina— 
F.Miialc  il.'vot.vs— Organ  plavcil  out  of  turn — Callinlral— 1  he  pic- 
ture of  Miirill.H— What  has  hecoiiieof  it  ?— I.iiiia  fonmleil  hy  I'l/.arro, 
miir.— The  old  inanuscriiit— Uuueii  Madam  Jauo  to  Maniuis  trancis 
Pizarro    . 


401 


CHAPTKR  XXVII. 

Streets  of  Lima,  liow  i)aved— l-'ilth  and  winged  sen vengers— Sugges- 
tion to  the  New  York  anthorith's- Houses  and  architectiin— Hotels 
full— Kefngees— Unfortunate   niouient    fur   concerts— Hevoliition— 
Hehels  and  government- Civil  war  normal  state  ol  l'erii-\\hat  1 
understaml  nl>out  political  alVairs- The  oiits  against  the  I'l'^— '  '"•- 
ruption    evervwh..ri— Kveryhody    lives    on    the   governmeiil  — 1  ho 
government  robs  her  creditors— How  the  luilitary  r<d.  the  treasiiry 
^How  the  arinv  is  recruite.l— Arrogance  of  the  military— How  they 
pay  their  debt;- What  shall   I  say  of  Holivia  .'-Cause  ol  war  he- 
tween  Bolivia  and  Peru— President  Mezarijo  a  ferocious  heast— I  era 
and    puhlic   schools— "  tiod    protect    us    from    religious    l.herty  . 
—When  thev  construct  railroads— Hate  innovation,  and  go  hack- 
ward— Hatred  for  foreigners— What  I  sMid— Peruvian  character— 
The    government     a   niilite.v   oligarchy— rnhridled    corruption— 
Kxamination  of  Siianish  American  governments— The  people  who 
cry  out  against  monarchy  !— What  they  submit  to— Haltle  ol  Lima 
—  My  friend    Dupeyron— '  Benediction   des    Poignards'- Letter   to 
Mr  ■Dniievron— A«akene<l  by  noise  of  liriiig— The  lighting— Bat- 
terv  of  artillery  under  e,ir  windows— What  I  see  from  behind  tlio 
l,li;„ls— A  ball'loilged  i.i  the  balcony— Horrible  tumult— Battle  coii- 
ti„,i,.s_lndian    imisicians    and   j^oldiers— O  Christian    charity  I— 
Heap  of  slain— The  little  gamin— The  wounded— The  Parisian  joker 
—His  care  for  the  wounded— Dupeyron  and  the  women  ev.'rywhere 
—Charity,  is  she  not  feminine  .'—The  dying  Indian  and  the  monk— 
P.il,  ceon  lire— Sacking  comnM'Uced— Those  who  surrendered  assas- 
Ki„,.,t,.,l_The    revolutionary    troops— Screams    of    the  wounded— 
Whole  ariiiv  of  Cauzeco  deliles— Description  of  them-No  one  found 
wiUin-  to  assist  the  wounded- What  do  yon   teach   in  your   con- 
vents'—French  miscreants  (I)  assist  with  duvotion— Those  nice  lel- 
lows  who  take  the  communiou 


413 


c(K\Tf:yTS. 


XXV 


PAoa 

riiirii|iii — Tlor- 
-:t'ntiii.i,'  imr^ra- 
1'    cruiis  '. — 'I'lio 

iiliiiii  f;iil  with 
.aiilicli'ri — Hiiat 
(lie  I'olisli    iuiil 

si'ii-sickiii'ss  is 
ilili'  |i!irt  iif  it  — 
li"  sliiji's  tiiili't 
DiiW'S   [ilavl'iil — 

iiowliail — Tilt) 
11  soliiic'is — Tlio 
it  til  start — Tlio 
mil,  anil  tliinl 
[itioii  of  Lima — 
•ilial — Till'  pir- 
iiIimI  liy  I'i/.aiiii, 
Maniuis  Fnuiuis 


401 


>n;:iTS — Sii<;!r<>s- 
iti'ituri' — Hotels 
< — lii'volntioii — 
f  I'liii-What   I 
St  till'  ins — Cor- 
ivi'inniciit — 'I'lio 
•ol)  till-  tivasiiry 
tiiry — How  tlii'Y 
'.•lusi-  ol'  war  ln'- 
ous  bi'ast — I'l'rii 
■,'ioiis    lilpcrty  I" 
11,  anil  f-'o  liark- 
.•iaii  cliaracti'r — 
•il    corruptions 
Till-  ])i'<)pl('  who 
— HaltU-  of  Lima 
arils' — Letter   to 
le  li^;htiiif; — Hat- 
t'rom  liehinil  tho 
milt— Hattle  coii- 
;tiaii    charity  I — 
lie  Parisian  joker 
imeii  evi'ry where 
anil  the  monk — 
irreiiilereil  assas- 
thi"  womiih'il — 
111  — No  one  t'ouiiil 
teh  in  your   con- 
1 — Those  nice  fel- 


CHAI'TlvU  XXVIII. 

I-Allli 

Kscape  of  fionie/,  Saiiche/— Continue  to  lirinj,'  in  the  wounileil — Lima 
laly  altemls  the  sick— The  priest  missiiij,'— ••  Ah  !  little  mother,  am 
1  living  ?"  — Kurt  of  ."*anla  Catalina  not  siirreinlereil— Narrow  escape 
of  my  piano— A  charming  youni,'  irirl  killeil — The  Monieiieros  — 
,\noliier  li.itlle  piiiliahle — I'rii'il  potatoesof  the  '  liarriere  ile  Clichy" — 
Things  lakiii;;  an  alarmiiig  turn — The  h>rt  still  hohls  out — The  ileail 
ami  woiiiiileil — Sail  elh-i.ls  of  civil  war — Santa  Catalina  surremlereil 
— What  will  liecoiiie  of  Us.' — Details  of  lliglil  of  (ioiiiez  Saiiche/. — 
Fears  realized  as  to  my  concerts — (ianleii  of  Olaiza— The  Peruvian 
Maliille — How  the  ililliciilty  was  overcome  —  Compositioiiou  '  Le  Hailo 
ill  Ma^chera'  —  Lve  of  war  with  Spain — My  concerts  limshcil  My 
success  -The  super!)  ilecoratioii  prcseliteil  to  me — Sea  haths  at  Cho- 
rillos — Civil  war  in  Spain — IJaymomli.  an  Italian  savant  -'I'lic coca 
ami  its  marv.llous  ellects— llov-  useil  -  IJuliark  for  Islay,  port  of 
Are<|uipa— The  ilesert  anil  t  ,  amhos—Areiiuipcfios— Their  in- 
iloiiiitahle  character — City  of  .,rci]uipa — Islay  to  .\rei)uipa  a  her- 
culean journey— The  lainliu!;  at  Islay— Am  known— The  young 
chililreii  aiel  luilian  girl  '  athiiig— Arica— La  Paz— Tacna— Tr\  ing 
to  persiiaile  iiictogoto  Pxilivia — One  hunilrcd  ami  eighty  leagues 
on  mules  aii.l  no  hotels — No  ilaiiger— Convoys  of  silver — Honesty 
of  the  hi. Mans — Tioopof  Spanish  adorsat  Arica— Singiil.irly  tempteil 
— Ari(;a,  its  fortilications  ami  church— A  decree  of  Prados — The  cniu- 
iiiaiidaiitgeiieral  — His  campaigns  in  the  interior — Arrival  of  Indians 

from    liolivi.i — The  cholo  i,;'    Peru — Soiree    at    X "s- Society  at 

'I  icna — The  only  arislocrr'.^y  anioiig  iiarveiiues  ami  reiuihlicaiis, 
that  of  wi-allh— What  I  liiid  ridiculous— Pretty  women  and  dancing 
— The  mecapaiiucna,  how  danced— The  wile  of  X.—      .  .  .429 


CHAPTKIt    XXIX. 

Descendants  of  the  Incas— Prejudice  against  the  Indians— Tlie  wife 
of  X.,  a  discendant  from  the  Caciiiue  iliiascar  — Her  marvellous 
heauly  when  young — liolivar— Compared  with  Washington— His 
charai'tcr— His"  stay  at  Tacna— '  The  pearl  of  Tacna' and  Holivar 
— The  romance— a" tragical  history — Pass  the  evening  with  a  Swiss 
merchant— Charming  evening— Invited  to  eat  game  taken  on  tho 
Tacora- -Second  comert  at  Tacna— The  stolen  horse  and  the  In- 
dians of  liolivia— Triiks  of  rohhers — False  singing  of  the  idd  Span- 
i<h  priest— The  aceompaniment — The  jdayiiig  of  the  old  Indian — 
No  regard  to  the  key  in  whiili  thi'  priest  was  singing— Plans 
(•haiiL'ed  l>v  homhardiiient  of  Valparaiso— liolivia  o|)eii  liefore  me— 
Tliree  hunikreil  miles  in  the  interior— Desert  and  Andes— What 
travellers  over  the  Andes  exposed  to! — Caravan  of  French  travellers 
-Crimes  of  Bolivia — An  invitation— Character  of  the  Indians— Tho 
port  of  Ari'-a  and  the  earav.iiis— The  President  of  liolivia,  .S'fior 
(ieiieral  Melgarejo— His  charaiter— A  sort  of  tiger— Curious  cus- 
toms of  the  Indians  of  Tacna — Indian  hride  complains  that  her  hus- 
band did  not  whip  her  I— Their  humility  and  suhmission— Tlio 
market   and  church- Preparing    for    liaster  Sunday—'  Tristos,'   a 


413 


XXVI 


CONTENTS. 


PAOB 


CllArTRU  XXX. 

ci.l...l   to  tr..--I;a   ^'•'-•'•'  •„,,,!::'      u,....s    and    ..iga.vtt.s-- I'l.-    Uv.. 
j.,un....y-' l'..-'l'l<'  '1"     ".'%,,,,    ,,.ii,v  MM.ulo-'n..-  r,..l.sr..v...c. 
i„rs...n,..,--Our  t"^;'--!;    ,     ,     .,   ,,,i^,  i.,„_-Cl.:..a,.t,.r  ot  tl.--  voa.l 

8..,.v.>,l    ui.-Hi>l"t?    ^"""T,        Val„a.•ai^o-li^•at    aui...al..m    o,. 

l„,^,,l-H.i.l.-    an.l    !-'':'"•'"-'' '■'Vn'     IM'i.al   .-l-'.v  -f  <'l'il'-   '''/."^^ 
M„„.lla..-Tl..-  I'^'^f'^'"^-  '  '    'lliV,,.  l.-n....i.-au  a,.,l  th.  K..^l.sl'- 

Dortor  I'l.ill.pi   k.ll.Ml  aiM      ..t;'         ,,,,       ,,^_TI..'    j,M.a..an,-  1 1..- 
.n,v...-no.-H  ."scai..'-(  .'^1   ■>'"l    ^.     ',,,,, a-Tl.c"    u.ost   lH'a..1il..l   -..1 

ArL'.'iitii.i'  llu-atre  >"  ,J'  '..?.,  ts-Tli."  son  of  Dictator  Tlovcs  of 

assays!.,  an.l  ''a''l'tr^''^'»''":^,,r"'i'  ,  !,.  of  fo.oi;:..  alfahs-KN.U-l 
eoiuiuost  of  hhn-lle.oauos  ""',.„  a,vH-Co..st...nati,m  at 
f„r  two  y.-a.-s-lio...a.ns  m    >  7"     ,„;'i^;;,...  m,!-!..'.--!!!^  >-Mtl..MS 

A.:tio.i  of  th.-  f(.r.Mgn.-vs-riic   lioi,t.>l,i    ^         ^        ^         .         .         .  45G 
Tho  tt'iius         •••**' 

CIIAPTKR  XXXJ. 

Fovt«.,a.o   assasMtiates    a   Frondunar.    '^^^^^t^^^^^''^- 
Enrol..— l!-"iomini.ms    tal     ''^    \''''^;\.  '  ,X  saf.-uanl  of  <iti/.'"s 

;;;;=^r^nu:;  rS^^m^TUe  peo,le  of  tl.  Ar,e.Une 


C<i\T/:.\TS. 


XXVll 


PAIIR 

Last  foii 

Willi  gdlili'ii 
iilili.V  "'■II'  — 
,11.1  hmial— 
1  aiiiiy— Our 
.•uslom    .     .  444 


T.'i>uWic  til.'  sink— Till-  juiMli:  fn'nsury  a  niil.li  ccw— Spauisli- 
AiM.ii.im  rcpulilirs-Wliiit  I  — ItiicMms  A.vrcs— Tli<'  sa.l.li'st  .•oiinii y 
ill  til.'  «(irl.l  —  iM(iiil.vi. I. Ml  — Writing!  my  Ki"""'  '  Taiaiitrll,.- — 
Ciimt  (iioaiinimii  to  invsiMil  it  to  the  piinc'ss— Ditsdii,  iiiid  •  Srvoii 
Octaves'— iS.  ♦«• ■*'' 


('(i.NCMTtflON  , 


y/.n' — liiviti'il 
I'oliiai"'— I'l'- 
i  pistiil— Till- 
,.^__Tli.'  two 
ri'disriivi'icil 
,,,.  „f  tlic  i(ia<l 
! — Our  host — 
rlu'ii— SiiiUH'r 
I,,,    invarialili'. 

auiiiialiii"    on 

,.,.__Straits   of 

Cliili,   I'lnita 

il  till'  Kn'xlish- 

tli."  Indians  — 
vcrnnii'nt — In- 

j^riianai'o — The 
ainily  of  I'iifiV- 

hoanlilnl  n'lrl 
>..n  Nata— llor 
,,y,.s — Oi'lmt  at 
iisi-  of  niin-snc- 
itator  Flori's  of 
lontt'vich'o — An 
atc's — 1  nial<''  !v 

alfaiis— KxihMl 
onstcrnation   at 

,. His  lirotliorK 

d  yiori'S  Hies— 
res  reinstated — 


45  G 


vks— L<'.'iv<'s  for 
IVrn— Hi'  i«  'i 
uanl  of  citizons 
oiu'  williii;-:  •'• 
..ail  pri.'Sit— The 
V  aV'iH'  ("I'votfd 
fiso  ih-<'  V''"'  ''^ 
of  the  Argentine 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 


(  xxix) 


jigii^X'.l^.m--' 


I 


FRKFACJE  TO  TllR   ISlOGllAl'llY. 


,;„„»..„.........■.'--' -■'■' ■'""; ■;:; 

,     ,.  ,  ;     ,.,,iv   v.ars  .l.Tiv.a   In...,   .1o.......h.I>   -. 


))(tSS(! 


<,  tiny 


i,„  ,„.,„„.■.■ wi--  A.  ■■...»..is  Lis  .^.1 i^-™;- 

, ,  ,,„.,•..,,.,.  ...  .vl"  ...  .' '■""-"  ■■'  "■■"■'■■"•"■ •"""  "." 

comi,oser,  scliolur,  un'l  i"'"'- 


(xxxi) 


HP" 


BKXJRAriiKWL  SKKTCIl 


("ILVr^TKIJ   I. 

J<(it  IS   M(iui:.\r  (Iottschai.k,  tin-  I'iiinist  mi'l  ('oiiiiMisci-. 
mill    lilt'  "Illy  Aiiu'rifim  iiiiistfr  of   the  iinMlfni  sflnxilnf 
iiiiisif,  was  ii  iiiitivf  uf  XfW  Oili'iiiis  in  llic  Stutc  of  Loiiisi- 
uiiii.  ill  tlio  riiihd  States  of  Aiiicriiii.     His  lallu-r  was  an 
Kiitrlisliiuaii,  liorii  ill  Loiidon;  liis  iiiotlicr  a  Cn'olc,  Iioru  in 
NfW  Orleans.     It  is  pmliahle,  if  not  eertaiii,  tlial  what  leii- 
(lereil  (Jottselialk  s<i  atli'aeti\f  was  iliie  to  the  two  iiati.iivs 
wUiell  lie  tlius   inlierited,  for  lie   |M)ssesseil    tlie   WMi'intli   ot' 
lu'art  wliicli  eliaraeteri/es  the  Creole,  and   tlu'  diu-iiity  of 
llliililier  so  lieeiiliar   to   the  KliiiTish.      His   aiieerjtors  on    his 
inotherV  side,  all  of  nol>!e   I"  reiieh   oriii'in,  were   resideiurt 
of  the    island    of  St.    Doininiro.       His   great-iiraiKlfather, 
Antoine  de   Mnisle,  Chevalier  of  the   royal    and    military 
Ortier  of  St.  I.onis,  was  i-oinniaiidant  or  ifovernor  of  the 
(jiiarter  of  tlie(Jraiide  Riviere,  parish  of  »<t.  Rose,  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  island.     His  .son,  Theothit  Cainillede 
IJnisle,  when  the   IJritisli  took   possessioi     >f  St.  Domiim-o,^ 
received  a  eoniinission  in  the  liritish  \V        lnilia_  .\riny  of 
Gt'orj^i!  III.  us  t«nsiij;n,  and   afterwards  .     captain  of  the 
Chasseurs  of  St.  (ieori^e,  in  the  reu'iineh.   of  Colonel  the 
Baron  de    .Montaleiiihert,  raised    in   St.   Doiniiiii;!) for  the 
defeiieu  of  the    island.     Ill  tho  terrihle    insiirreetion   and 
niassaere  whieh  took  |>la<"e  after  the  British  ahandoned  the 
island,  Conunandaiit  <le   Hnisle  was  kilU'il.  and  Captain  de 
Hriisle  escaped  with  others  to  various  West  Fiidia  islands, 
and  to  Louisiana,  then  in  p(.'ssession  of  the  French  (iovern- 
meiit.     On  tlie  Kith  of  .lanuary,  l«(»tt,  Captain  <U'   IJnisle, 
who  had  tied  to  Jainaiea,  entered  into  ii  contract  of  inar- 
riuirc  with  Miss  ^hlrie  Jo.sepUino  Alix  J)eyiiant,  who  had 
"      3  (:25)     • 


26 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 


Ukcwiso  escape.:  with  l.rr  lather,  Lientonai.t  Loui.  Chm- 
X    iH'vnuut,   a,Kl   hei-   m.-ther,    Lady    Mane    Iheirse 
Y  a  a-le,  tVum  the  island.     AftcT  the  ..arnap"  ot  (  :.ijtam 
<;.    r>rusl6  he  einio-rated  with    his  wite  an.l    hei-    athers 
'.  ,a       to  New  Orleans.     Several  eh il dm,  were  tlie  irmt  ot 
ti    ;narriau-e,anK>nu^  whon.  was  Miss  Auneede  Bru.sle, 
I'narkahle^br  her  ^beauty,  her  wit,  and  nn.su-a    ^enn    . 
Miss  de.   Ih-usle  at  tla- a-e  of  titteen  was  n.arried     o   M  • 
Edward  ( Jottsc-halk,  a  hroker,  of-reat  reputed  wealth,  nu  h 
isteenied  as  a  gentleuutn  of  tine  euUure,  and  -^'-;  -  ;^^  -(^ 
n  lin.-uist,-he  spoke  ei.^ht  or  nnie  languages      On  the  htli 
J\Us   lS-^0,  Mrs.  ( J..ttsehalk  i-ave  birth  to  her  eldest  son, 
Lou!r^Iorc;uGottsehalk,the  .d>ieet^  of  this  sket.  k       Io 
was  named  Moreau  after  an  unele  on  his  uiothei  ^  bule,  tlic 

Count  .Moreau  de  Tlslet.  ,     ^       ^i         i  i:  „+^ 

From  his  hirth  he  was  a  preeoeious  hut  ratlier  d^>  '''i/c 
child  and  early  displayed  a  taste  for  musie,  smgmg  all  tlio 
tunes  he  heard  phlyed.  The  eholera,  in  1831,  took  trom 
him  a  little  sister,  and  left  his  mother,  who  had  also 
Irvu  attacked  with  the  disease,  at  death  s  <loor.  Her  pliy- 
sieian  having  ordered  a  change  of  air.  Ins  lather  ].nrchase(l 
a  property  at  Pass  Christian,  on  the  (Jultot_  Mexico,  where 
he  decidc'<l  to  settle  and  reside  until  his  \vile  s  health  should 
he  iierlectlv  restored. 

\t  this  tune  it  was  a  charming  hut  wild  and  almost  un- 
inhabited spot.  The  change  of  scene  and  air  seen.ed_  to 
have  the  desired  effect.  Mrs.  Uottschalk  began  to  im- 
prove, and  :Sh.reau,  then  about  thi-i-e  years  ot  age,  seemed 
to  take  nexv  life  amidst  the  beauties  of  nature  which  sur- 
romided  him;  his  health  became  invigorated,  and  he  tol- 
lowed  his  father  in  all  his  rambles,  which  he,  a  great  lover 
of  nature,  took  morning  smd  evening.         ,  ,    ,     ,  , 

]Shi<lam  (iottscl.alk,  who,  suiee  her  health  had  been  ini- 
l,aired.  sang  (MiIv  at  intervals,  resumed  again  her  youthtul 
!,ecupatioir(she^  was  then  only  iiineteen  years  old),  and 
once  more  commenced  studying  singing.  Moreau  ^eatea 
alon.-side  of  her  on  a  little  sto.d,  listene.l  atto.tively  to  his 
mother,  without,  however,  her  observing  the  extraordinary 
interest  wliich  the  chiM  manifested  ior  the  nmsic.  One 
da V,  when  she  ha<l  been  practising  very  assiduous! v  the 
grand  air  of  '  Grace,'  from  the  opera  ot  ' Robert  le  Duibk, 


ri 


MOTHER'S  A  ^TOMSIIMKNT. 


27 


Louis  Clins- 
ario   Tln'ivse 
!,v  of  Ciiptiiin 
lu'i-  tatlu'rV 
•0  the  iViiit  ()t' 
eo  lie  BnisK", 
iisii-al  !j;i'iuus. 
irriod  to  Mr. 
wealth,  imifh 
iviiiarkalile  as 
.     On  the  8th 
hov  eldest  son, 
^  sketch,     lie 
her's  s'kIc,  the 

ather  dolicntc 
ringing  all  the 
31^  took  from 
,vho  had  also 
H)i\  Her  jihy- 
(luT  ]mivhasL'd 
Mexico,  -where 
s  health  should 

and  almost  un- 
aii'  seemed  to 
:  began  to  im- 
of  age,  seemed 
ure  which  sur- 
ed,  and  he  t'ol- 
0,  a  great  lover 

h  had  heen  im- 
in  her  youthful 
years  old),  and 
'Moreau,  seated 
rtentivcly  to  his 
e  I'xtrao'rdinary 
he  music.  One 
assiduously  the 
ohert  Ic  Diahle,' 


feeliuir  faticued,  she  retired  into  her  chamher,  leaving  lu'r 
child Tdone'in  the  room,  when,  frightened  hy  vhe  sound  of 
the  i-iano,  she  (luickly  got  uji,  as  the  Indians,  to  whom  nearly 
the  wliole  i>lace  hi'l'oiigeil,  were  ne\er   backward   in  coin- 
mittinti  dei.redations.   'The  tirst  thcuight  of  the  young  wife 
was,  that  one  of  them  had  .)litai,ie<l  an  entrance  into  the 
house,  and,  attracted  hy  tiie  sight  of  the  iud<nown  instru- 
ment, had  cndeavoured'to  learn  for  himself  the  nature  of  the 
tliinu-;  wln'n,ci;refully  opening  the  door,  she  saw  tlie  cliiM 
standing;  on  a  stool  with  a  jireoccujiit'd  air,  with  his  little 
hands  (7n  the  piano,  endeavouring  to  find  the  keysof  Ir.e 
notes  he  out-lit  to  strike.     His  mothi'r,  utterly  astonished, 
did  not  sjicak  to  him,  hut  watdied  what  he  was  doing, 
when,  to  her  extreme  surjiriso,  the  child  reproduced  |he  air 
whic-h  she  had  sunu'  a  (piarter  of  an  hour  hi'lbre.     The  cry 
of  iiride  given  hv  the  youiiLi-  mother  attracted  the  negro 
servants,  and,  to"the  givat   terror  of  many  of  them,  they 
were  listeners  to  the' first   musical    essays  of  one  ot  t he 
o-i-eatest  pianists  that  ever  were  horn.     The  ehlest  ot  the 
iieu-roes    shook    their    heads    and    whispered    the    word 
''zoiid)i,"  which  in  the  negro  tongue  signilies  devil;  the 
vounu'er  ones  looked  on  admiringly,  and  taking,  with  re- 
Kpeotftlie  little  hands  of  the  child  into  their  own,  kissed 
them.     At  Mr.  CJottschalk's  return  the  circumstance  was 
related  to  him,  and  to  the  great  chagrin  of  his  wiie  he 
instantlv  decided  that  instead  of  remaining  he  wouhl  en- 
deavour to  disposeof  the  property  an<l  return  to  the  city, 
l\)r  the  purpose  of  securing  to  the  child  a  perfect  musical 

education.  .  ,       ,  .n   ,      i       ^ 

Like  an  openimr  Hower  the  nature  ot  the  child  di-veloped 
Itself  little  hv  little.  His  heart  was  so  tender  that  he  could 
not  hear  to  see  anv  one  around  him  suttering.  One  day, 
when  his  i>arents  had  taken  him  with  them  to  pay  a  visit 
to  a  lady  some  distance  from  home,  the  child  wiis  paiutully 
struck  at  the  sit-'ht  of  a  negress  who  had  the  "  car  can  (a 
species  of  round'  wooden  instrument,  fastened  hy  a  padlock 
placed  around  the  neck  of  neirroes  as  a  punishment,  which 
pri'vents  them  from  Ivimr  down— kei.t  on  sometimes  tor 
two  or  three  months)  around  her  neck.  As  in  the  city  they 
were  less  eruel  to  their  slaves  than  in  the  country  where 
tlK'i-e  were   no   magistrates  to   enforce  the  laws,  Moreau, 


,■4 


28 


niOGHAPniCAL  SKETCH. 


never  Leforo  having  soon  a  cairan,  turno.l  his  hoad  from  the 
Sit  w  th  horn.i-,  an.l  .U-inan.lo.l,  to  hor  groat  n.orti  .n^- 
t  o     a    oxplanation  from  Ma.lani  ,  to  whom  rho  ^aNO 

h  1  n  ro.  Sho  on.U.avou.va  to  mako  tho  ohihl  unao. -stand 
th  I  ti  ■  nooToss  had  dosorvod  tho  imnishmon  and  that  he 
tl.at  t  R  IK  \othinu',  howovor,  could  oahn  him, 

;;:;;  ho  ti;;^ht  hi;  t^dho.-  toTa.  savah.  m.  tutho.-  hooon. 

h  .      lito  o.aharrassod,  Ma.kim took  up  tho  mat  , 

K  rhusv  an.l  i.roi.oso.l  to  soil  Sarah,  who,  sho  saul,  ANa^ 
^  U  S.a  to  imn^  tho  ohiokons.  Tho  -rgam  was  c.nn- 
lotod  and  Mr.  Gottsohalk  made  tho  child  a  proont  ot 
^  u  :  who  hocamo  a  .lovorod  .on-ant  to  him,  and  afterwards 
iho  clild-s-nui-se  to  all  his  aftord.oni  hrothors  and  sistoi.s. 

His  i'd ionco  was  romarkahlo,  and  his  all  rt ion  or  his 
Jt;  anilanitod  almost  to  id.Aatry  His  iatlK.,  a  hougk 
kin.l  was  what  is  called  strict,  and  hrought  up  hl^  1  ttle 
S  hi  the  most  elevated  ideas,  and  never  penni  tc^  hm 
the  indulcjenoe  of  any  weakness.  At  Jl'^'^'^' , >.'"%.* 'V;'^,; 
he  on-aovd  in  conversation  pertaining  to  a  child  ot  son  on, 
!uu  lai  vady  soomod  to  understand  the  extent  and  import- 
a  00  t-  the  duties  whic-h  his  father  placed  hoio.v  him 
"When  >hM-oau  shall  have  hrothors  and  sisters,"  he  wonl. 
.av   ''    .pa  <'onnts  upon  his  working  for  thom,and  he  must 

Auk  iorohand  that  they  will  have  a  father  m  Moreau 
The  little  child  "Hclorstood  all   and  seoined  nya  va  u     to 
ad..pt  tho  prosp(H-tivo  family  which  his  iuthoi  at  a  latti 
iioriod  hcnuoathed  to  him.  i     -i    i 

^   S    nine    passed,  and  when  autumn  came  it  was  decided 
tha      lowholo  fanuly  shonhl  return  to  New  Orleans.     As 
t^tt\.o  sumnu/lasted.  Madam  !^<>ttschalk  ^is  s<>rry 
at  the  prospect  of  quitting  so  charming  a  spot,  hut,  \M 
Jho^rs    appr..ach  ot"  winter  hronudit  the  Indunis  tmrn    ho 
lopths  of  the  forest  to  the  noighljourhood  ot  t^o  <lwe  1  ng 
her  re-rots  were  lessoned,  particularly  so,  as  one  'Kn^^  '1 
Sroatlv  occupied  in  making  cakes  im-  *  S-^';^';-;;/^     ^ 
white^vrms  lloing  oxposo.l,  a  passing  Indian  stop  pen  I  m  a        - 
ration  of  her  heauty  and  made  an  attempt  /<•  J^  -  • 

She  called  for  help,  and  the  man  ot  the  woods  ^^vut  laugli- 

'"^^hiThic'ident  decided  her,  and  the  month  of  Xovemhor 
saw  them  all  again  settled  in  New  Orleans. 


r :  t 


i 


PLAYS  TUE  ORGAN. 


29 


■ad  fioni  the 
it  iiiortiticii- 
1111  rlu'  ^lilV(' 
[  uiulcrstiiiKl 

luitl  that  ho 
I  cahii  liiiii, 
athcrhc'coin- 
I  the  inattor 
liL'  said,  \vas 
in  was  (■(•ni- 
a  ]nvsont  of 
1(1  aftt-rwartls 
and  sistoi-s.  _ 
rtioii  for  his 
iiT,  altlioiiiih 

\\\)  his  little 
onnitti'd  hiiu 
yi'ars  of  ago, 
liild  of  sovou, 
t  and  iiui'"i't- 
[  boforo  liiiii. 
rs,"  ho  would 
I,  and  lie  tuust 
!•  in  Moivan."' 
in  ailvani'i'  to 
lior  at  A  lator 

it  was  doc'ided 
Orleans,  As 
lalk  was  sony 
|iot,  l)nt,  whoa 
lians  from  the 
■  the  dwoUing, 
ono  day,  wlion 
,  hor  l)"oautiful 
opjtod  in  admi- 
to  kiss  thorn, 
ds  went  laugh- 

1  of  Xovembor 


CHAPTER  ir. 

The  first  tliono-ht  of  Mr.  ( iottschalk,  nftor  tlioir  return 
to  New  Ork'ans,  was  to  make  in(|uirios  for  tin-  host  ]irotossor 
of  the  piano.  Mr.  Letellior,  a  vouiitr  Frenchman,  a  siuirer 
of  u-reat  tak'ut  at  tlu'  Theatre  d'Ork'-ans,  was  introduced  to 
him,  and  immediately  Moroau  eommence('  the  study  of 
music.  One  year  afterwards,  Mr.  Letellior,  ..ill  of  pride  at 
the  remarkah'le  progress  of  his  pupil,  rei>eated  I'Vi'rywhero 
that  the  little  (Jottschalk  could  read  at  first  sight  any 
manuscript  which  might  ho  ]>laeod  Itefore  him.  l)e>*ides 
the  piano  ho  was  also  taught  the  violin,  and  Mr.  Miolan, 
the  l)rothor  of  .\hidam  Carvalho,  tlie  French  singer,  was 
chosen  for  his  professor. 

Several  years  were  thus  passed.  Moroan,  althougli  in 
delicate  health,  grew  in  height  ;  hut  the  ]>assion  he  had  for 
music  did  not  ]>revoiit  tlio  assiduous  labour  to  whii-h  his 
father  subjected  him  from  becoming  injurious  to  his  con- 
stitution. Ono  day,  when  Mr.  Letellior,  who  Wi-.s  organist 
at  the  Cathedral  of  St.  J^ouis,  liad  taken  his  little  scholar 
to  show  him  the  mechanism  of  the  organ,  and  to  oxiiliiin 
it  to  liiin.  he  was  surprised  to  see  how  (puckly  tlie  child 
imdorstood,  and  decided  to  teach  him  the  organ.  As  Mr. 
(xottschalk  made  no  objection  to  the  proposition,  the  idea 
of  the  jirofessor  was  immediately  i>ut  into  execution,  and 
the  lessons  connuence(l.  His  progress  was  so  rajiid  that  one 
year  afti^r — Moroau  miglit  then  have  boon  seven  years  old— 
iiavinji:  gone  to  high  mass  one  Sunday,  ^fr.  lA'tellier  beck- 
oned to  him  so  energetically  that  he  was  obliged  to  under- 
stand that  his  pn)fossor wanted  him  in  the  choir;  but  what 
was  liis  surprise  when,  reaching  it,  ^fr.  Letellior  said  to 
him.  "  Xow.  tlion,  sit  down,  and  decipbor  this  mass  for  me; 
the  tenor  is  ill,  I  nuist  take  his  place,"  and  there  is  nol)ody 
else  to  play  the  o  gan  ;  and  above  all  make  no  blunders — 
now  begin."  Trend)ling,  but  not  darii.ir  to  disobey,  the 
child   coinmeuced.      Mr.    Lotollior   managed    the    pedals, 

3* 


30 


BIOr.R.  I PIIK  A  L  SKF  TCII. 


whi.'!.  Lis  littlo  feet  could  net  iviu-li.     ^Vl.cn  tLo  iumss  avhs 
tini.hr.Utliri.ro1'r.-sortonk  his  impil  i.ilnsanns.a...    LTMina- 
down  stairs,, ..vsn>tv.l  i>ir.  <o  his  tatluT,  say...- :  -  Ih."...  is 
the  most  hoa..tin.l  tlov.ci-  of  ,..y  .•.•ow.. ;  .1     his  chil,    .lors 
,„.thccoi.ii'  the  srivatcst  ...usi.'ia.i  in  the  w..i-l(l,  sac-iv  \hv\\. 
inv  iian.c.  is  ...it   Lctciru'.-."  a...l  tho  p.o.l^  i.ian,  Avtr,.....; 

witho.....ti<m,l<isscMlhi,...   Thc.'hil.l,ii..l.atu...t1ou-oho„.(., 

.n-a<|K'.l  his   i-ath.M--s  ha..<!,  a...l  tnod  to  (h-a,ir  hm.  away. 
Tho..  ........ini--  o.i  hofo.r,  he  did  not  stop  yntd    .e  .va<-hed 

home     ''Wheiv  is  i..aimiia'f'  he  iiKUiiivd,  ai.<l,  fhi-owi..-;- 

hi...selfi..to  his  n.othei-"sa.-l..s,e..(U-av(Uii-ed  to  ivh.te  to  he.' 

his  ,„o.-i.i..ir"s  s..eeess;  h.it  so  p'eat  was  h.s_ emotion,  that 

Mr.  (Jottsei.alk  was  ohli,-jed  to  go  to  his  assistance,  and  to 

exnlai.i  what  had  hapi^cnech  ,     i     ^.  •      i   *  .. 

Seve.-al  vea.'s  passcl   away.     IMoroau    had  attained  ten 

years  ..f  au'e;  his  talent  was  so  great  that  there  was  nothn.- 

t-n,-ther  diihcult  for  l.in.,s,.  .Nil".  Letellier  ca...hdly  acki.ow - 

e.h^e.l  that  he  had  nothing  more  toteaci.him,and  the  onl} 

thf..--  rei..ai..ini--  to  he  (hme  was  to  si'i.d  him  to  France 

Mr  -liottschalk:  wl...  had  always  che.-ished  the  thought  ot 

lui\  i....-  his  ehild.v.i  ed.icatcd  in  Europe,  was  only  too  l.appv 

have  a  reason  tor  it,  a..d  <lecide.l,  to  the  g.vat  regret  ot 
his  V  ife,  that  his  so.,  shouhl  leave  New  ()rlea..s  and  go  to 
I'Mi-is  when  he  should  attain  the  age  ot  twelve  years 

'u'thil    K..-iod,the  condition  of  tho  Theatre  d  Orleans, 
owin-  to  il.anv  ci.vumstanc-es   useless  to  mention,  was  lav 
f,-om  riourishh.'o-,  and  many  of  the  musicians  ot  <  l'^7"-<'»^^'^;  ' 
we.-e  unemploved.     Mr.  ^Hdan,  one  (.t  the  i.uml.er  cat  e 
(..,e  dav  to  M,-.CJottschalk  to  re-iuest  him  to  pevinit  hl^  .. 
tol.lavata  concert  which  he  was  about  to  give  tor  his  ow  a 
he.l.Hl     At  this  tin.e  Mr.  (iottschalk,  engaged  ni  business 
as  a  stock-b,-ok-r,  was  led  to  indulge  the  h(.i.e  ot  an  inde- 
pendent fortune  ibr  his  children,  and,  never  having  an  idea 
that  a..v  of  them  would  be  in  the  musical  P'-i^'^'^'*';;;   '^ 
liatlv  i-efused.     lUit   Mr.   Miohm   would  take  no  letiisal, 
and'  returue<l  a.nun  to  tho  charge.     The  second  time  his 
pc.titio.i  met  with  more  success  as  it  was  supported    -x     U 
lish  which  the  little  artist  had  of  bemg  hoard  '^     "'> l^;- 
A  select  p,-o.n-ammo  was,  theivfove,  placed  betore    he  e.  ts 
of  the  Creole  a.i.l  Americm  '^'l^'^tanti  o    ^ew   Orlean., 
and  in  a  few  davs  more  tickets  were  sold  than  the  conceit 


iiiMss  was 

''Tln-iv  "is 
cliild  tlois 

nvw  Du'u'. 

1,  Avcrjiint; 

(I  !i'()  llolIU', 

liiiu  :i\viiy. 

\v   ITiK'llL'd 

I,  (lircwiiii;' 
flati-  toluT 
lotion,  that 
iKV,  and  to 

ttainod  tiii 
vas  notliinii; 
\y  acknowi- 
lid  tlic  only 

to  France. 

tliouirlit  of 
ly  too  liappy 
'lit   ivgivt  of 
lis  and  go  to 
'  yi'ars. 
re  d"(3rlt'ans, 
ion,  was  fur 
tlR'orclicstni 
limber,  came 
M'niit  his  son 
.■  for  his  own 
lI  in  husinoss 
e  of  an  indo- 
ivinti'  iin  idea 
irofession,  he 
e  no  refusal, 
>nd  time  his 
lorted  hy  tlie 
ird  in  luihlie. 
fore  the  eyes 
u'W   Orleans; 
.11  the  concert 


FAREWELL  COSCEUT. 


01 


room  could  seat.  On  the  cvetiinsr  of  the  jierformanee  the 
hall  was  t-rowded,  and  there  was  hanlly  stanilini;'  room  to 
bi!  found.  Tlie  youiijLj  artist  played  several  pieces,  hut  the 
one  wliicli  was  most  successtiil  was  the  '  j.ucie'  hy  L'crt/. 
When  he  came  to  the  most  ditlicult  passage  nl'  the  piece, 
the  enthusiasm  was  at  its  lu'ight,  and  the  last  note  was 
liardly  struck  when  the  young  executant  was  cai'ricd  ulf 
in  triumph. 

FAcrything  being  arranged  for  ^hireau's  departure,  in 
A])ril,  1S42,  at  the  recpiest  of  his  father's  tViends,  he  gave 
u  farewell  co'icert.  At  the  liead  o:  the  patrons  of  tlu'  eon- 
cert  was  Mr.  David,  the  French  consul.  The  expected  day, 
a""". aited  with  so  much  impatience  by  all  the  musii-al  aiua- 
teurs,  and  by  the  curious  who  had  never  heard  tlie  young 
musician,  at  last  arrived.  Xevi-r,  ])erhaps,  hail  the  splendiil 
ball-room  St.  J^ouis  been  filled  with  so  large  and  brilliant 
an  a.ssemlilage.  All  the  ilifc  of  the  city  were  there.  .\t 
the  conclusion  of  the  concert,  Mr.  David  stepped  upon  the 
.'^tage  and  presented  to  the  young  artist  a  monsti'ous  boiKjUet. 
JSloreau  thought  but  of  one  thing,  his  mother,  and,  turning 
to  the  stage-box  whei'e  she  was  seated,  screamed  out, 
"^himma,  it  is  lor  you  I" 

Oil  the  evening  of  the  concert,  the  little  juanist  went  to 
the  hairdresser,  Mr.  liiarraiKl,  to  have  his  hair  dressi'd. 
"All!  I  see,"' said  the  hainlresser,  "•  you  are  going  to  the 
eoneert  of  little  Moreau  (Jottsehalkl  \  also  should  like  to 
have  gone,  but  I  caunoi  spare  so  much  money  at  once  1" 
"  Would  you  !ik(!  to  go'r"  asked  Moreau.  "To  gol  indeeil 
I  shouul."  "Very  wi'll,  then,  I  can  give  you  a  ticket ;  I  am 
Moreau  Gottschalk."  (Jreat  was  the  surprise  of  the  hair- 
dresser, and  Moreau  had  that  evening  one  more  admirer. 


CHAPTER  HI, 

Ix  May,  1S4-2.  Moreau  left  Xew  Orleans  on  tlu-  Taglioiii, 
a  sailing  vessel,  hound  for  Havre,  under  the  commaud  ot 
Captain  iiogers,  a  friend  of  Mr.  Gottschalk,  in  whose  charge 


g.^  liioanAriiicAL  sketch. 

''T -a      The  Jnlv       l!.win^lu-amv.a  in  Paris,  a.ul  wa. 
•i  to        u       n  a  l.rivaie  iaiuily,  wIm.  nov.r  n.vivod 

,.liur.l  t..  iMUi.     n  'His  first  musi.al  pro- 

,,orc.  tl.an  •^'.^^    "        7^,,:^     /^^..n  Moroau  ^vas  .onti.lM 
lessor  was  UalU',  l>»t  no.c  -,1       i,-,,.],   \^^.  taui-ht 

,,„t  liki,.-  tiu«  nonchalant  n  a  ^l    v  u  nn.lor  th.  mu- 

^  '•"M"^±^;.,;v        n  ;^c.o,^'iontions,  nol,U.-lu.arn.a,  an. 
C'anullr  ^/!"'''^^"' .;"'    '  ,  ......ftiT  vi.ars,W!'s.)tti"n  i>U'asi-(l 

l'''''-:'r;i  ,;'i'::i ,, '  c ; ; .l.v.i: p.,!  «,,,■  ,„„'„  ,„..,. 

aitHcnlty  in  r.ta  mt.ir  what  he  h  d  l^       ■     ^H       J  ^^^^^_ 
.onK>nstnnK..s..  h.,.-oo.^-,^ 

rapliv.  In  tlK' same  \N  .!>•"- "11  ...wii,,    hi-;  means  soon 

""Sus  to  1845,  he  had  only  played  in  the  salons  of  the 


irts  of  tlio 
iH-  iiiiitlior 
is,  ainl  \v:H 
.T  ivft'ivt'd 
lUsical  pro- 
is  foiitiiU'd, 

he  tauitlit 
llT  tlu'  lUU- 
f  till'  time, 
leiirted,  and 
fteii  ] pleased 
y  man  moro 
mi  to  inusie, 
lositlon  was 
s  eeleUrati'd 
om  may  l)e 
it  in,   (J  reek, 
At  the  same 

elegant  po- 
iianners  soon 
idi,  and  the 
dueed  at  the 
angi',  heeame 
,  Kothschild, 
of  those  who 

>nr.     Ho  rfi*^- 
heing  ahle  to 
o  days"  study. 
ho  had  more 
l»i«iued  hythe 
system  of  iiiu- 
[irv  and  geog- 
Art  i.oeti(iuo' 
lis  means  soon 
iteen,  he  eoiiltl 
h,and  Italian. 
H)rientales' of 
i  Spanish  lik^ 

ae  salons  of  the 


cnopixs  coMPLDn:sT. 


S8 


Parisian  aristocracy,  among  whom  In-  was  tTled  and  caressed 
on  account  of  his  aristocratic  maimers  and  great  talent  as 
an  artist,  lie  now,  however,  decided  to  apiiear  in  pnltlie, 
an<l  in  April  of  this  year  gave  a  concert, /(om  ])iii/<iiif,  at  the 
Halle  IMeyel,  the  annoimccnient  of  which  created  a  marked 
Hcnsation.  Rum' itr  had  spoken  so  trenuently  of  llie  yninig 
( Jottschalk  in  the  fasliioMal)le  world, he  had  heen  so  niui'ii  a|p- 
])lauded,  that  all  wi-ri-  eager  to  hear  him.  I>esides,he  was  an 
"•American,"'  and  the  (luestion  was  asked,  "Could  Anui-ica 
liroduce  an  artist?""     'I  hi-  hall  was  tilleil  to  ovi-rtlowiiiir. 

The  anticipations  of  this  hrilliant  assendilage,  composed 
of  the  I'arisian  and  foreign  aristocracy,  as  well  as  of  his 
fellow-countrymen  then  resident  in  l'i,ris,  as  also  of  all  the 
prinei[>al  artists,  were  perfectly  realized.  The  splendi<l 
])laying  of  the  young  piaiust,  at  once  elegant  and  vigorous, 
his  expression  so  pure  and  impassioned,  and  the  gleams  of 
decided  originality,  all  cond)ine(l  to  secure  for  him  the  most 
hrilliant  success.  At  the  close  of  the  concert  the  applause 
was  iniinense,  and  a  wreath  of  tlowers  was  thrown  to  the 
young  riHiioso.  The  graci'ful  and  modest  manner  with 
which  he  received  it  comjiletiKl  his  success,  (."liopin,  who 
was  present,  after  the  concert, said  in  the  artists"  room,  in  the 
[iresence  of  his  friends,  putting  his  hands  on  his  head, '  J)on- 
nez  luoi  la  main,  moii  enfant;  je  vous  predis  que  vous  serez 
le  roi  des  pianistes."  ((Jive  me  your  hand,  my  child;  I 
predict  that  you  will  hcMme  the  king  of  pianists.)  These 
few  and  simple  Avonls  Ah>reau  valued  more  than  all  the 
1)ravos  he  had  received,  for  Chopin  was  chary  of  his  ]»raise. 
From  that  hour  he  lield  his  diploma  as  an  artist. 

Tie  had  hitherto  heen  known  only  from  playing  the  com- 
positions of  others,  IJeethoven,  Mendelssohn",  J>is/.t,  Tlial- 
herg,  and  Cliopin.  Ife  now  heeame  a  eomposi'r  himsi'lf. 
In  184G  he  wrote  his  'Danse  Ussianiiiue."  It  was  hut  a 
tritle,  but  gave  evidence  of  future  greatness.  This  <;erm  of 
oriifiiiality  re-  :>ale(l  itself  more  and  more  in  the  pieces  en- 
titled 'Les  ]>allades  d"Ossian,' or  'Le  Lai  du  iH'rnier  Mene- 
strel,'  'l^a  Uraude  ^.'alse,'  and  'La  Grande  Etude  de  Con- 
cert,' which  appeared  in  1847. 

Tn  tlu^  inonth  of  Xovemher,  1847,  he  wished  to  make  liis 
tii-st  trial  in  one  of  the  ]irovinees  before  a  paying  jiuhlic, 
and  like  Liszt  and  Thalborg  he  chose  for  his  dcOut  the  city  of  . 


84 


liKxniM'lUCAf.  SKETCH. 


S>.liUi,Ml.U'li  cuiovvd  a  (rHaiii  n'|.ntiiti..n  lor  diU-ttiUitc-isin. 
lie  WHS  not  U'ss  ti.rtiiiiati-  tliaii  liis  illustnous  prt'dtrcssoiv, 
anil  wart  m-i'ivcil  with  rai-turons  api'laiisi'. 

It  mi--lit  Ik-sui.i.<>sc<1  that  sucli  i-'i-rat  success  won.d  have 
spoiled  l.in.,an.l  that  th.'  way  in  which  lu;  was  courtcl 
and  iT'tcd  ev-rvwhiTO  would  liavc  n.hl.cd  hini  ol  his  sini- 
i.licitv  of  1  art.  l?ut  8n<h  was  not  the  ease;  he  renianied 
the  sinie  ,Jnd,  treutlej.euev..lent,  modest  youth  that  his 
infant  .hiys  jiave  promise  ot.  The  followinj,'  anecdote  will 
irivi'  some  insiirht  into  his  nature. 

^    One  Sui  lav  evo  in  Paris,  as  he  was  walkimr  leisurely 
home,  ho  heanl  a  deei-drawn    si-h,  tlu^n  a  so.:  tunun.!i 
round  he  hclield  a  vountj  recruit,  almost  a  child,  l.edi-we.l 
in  teai-'^      His  sorrow  was  so  genuine,  his  pnet  so  unteijrne<l, 
that  he  asked  him  if  ho  could  do  anythmir  to  liel}.  hiiu. 
-  Mas,  no,"  answered  the  la.l;  "au  accident  has  happened  to 
„H.  that  has  no  remedy,  and  which  will  hrin-  on  me  such 
a  punishment  as  I  shall  never  he  aide  to  hear.  '   "   Uit  what  is 
it  •'•'  ivA<^^\  (iottschalk.     -  Well,  you  see,  s,r,  whenever  wo 
tear  or  losc^  anv  of  our  clothes,  wo  have  to  remain  m  portect 
ooniinement  for  a  week  or  moro,  sometimes  m  darkness;  it 
depends  <ai  the  nature  of  the  article  wo  have  h.st  'n'  torn. 
1  have  just  torn  my  trousers,  and  1  dare  not  go  Inu'k  to  the 
harracks,  for  if  1  havo  to  uiuh'rgo  such  a  punishment  1 
shall  make  away  with  myself.     Fancy,  Monsieur,  1 ,  eommg 
from  the  country,  heing  deprive.l  ot  air  ami  light  lo  .  a 
fortui.dit!"    (iottschalk,  greatly  touched,  hade  the  recruit  to 
folloxv"  an.1,  heing  near  the  Ruo  .lo  l.ondres  where  ho  know 
■I  kind  and  ohlii-ing  tailor, ho  retraced  Ins  stops  thither.    Jle 
found  the  man  and  his  family  gathero. I  together  reading  ; 
ho  explained  the  ease,  and  heggo.l  the  tailor  lor  tho  i^.or 
young  man's  sake  to  see  what  was  needed  to  ho  done.     J  ho 
kind'tailor  readily  complied,  and  with  tho  hidp  ot  Ins  wiie 
maiuu-ed  to  repair  th    garment.aiul  thus  save  the  voun.g  man 
fr,.m  his  dreaded  pm.-.shmeut.     Needless  to  say,  he  paid  the 
tailor  handsomelv  for  the  time  and  lahour  he  ha<l  oxpeialod. 
Once    when  ahout  entering  one  of  those  large  oonlec- 
tionerios  called  restaurants  in  Paris,  ho  noticed  a  young 
soldier  who  was  standing  at   tho  window  admiring  ami 
seeming  ready  to  devour  all  tho  good  things  so  heautilully 
decorated  and  arruugcd  to  tempt  the  puhhc.     Ihe  young 


ilcttiuiti'isin. 
jiri'iU'ci'ssor-*, 

^  wonltl  Imvi' 
was  <'(turtt'<l 
II  ol"  liis  siiii- 
lii'  ri'inaiiu'"! 
utli  that  his 
iim'ciU>to  w  ill 

iiitr  U'isiiivly 
s(il»;  turning 
lild,  heiU'Wotl 
HO  uiiti'itriic<l, 
to  lic'lji  him. 
s  liai>i)t'iK'(l  to 
I  oil  11)0  such 
-'  I'utwhat  is 
wlii'iii'vor  wi" 
lain  ill  iiortc'ct 
1  (larkiR'ss;  it 
■  lost  or  torn. 
:<)  hack  to  tho 
|tuiiisliiiu'iit  I 
cur,  l,couiiiit;" 
(I  liicht  for.  SI 
.' the  recruit  to 
hciv  ho  knew 
)s  thither,    lie 
iithor  reading ; 
•  for  the  poor 
he  (lone.    The 
olp  (»t'  his  wife 
the  vouiiu;  man 
iy,he  paid  tin- 
had  expeiKled. 
'.  large  eonl'ec- 
ti('e(f  a  young 
admiring  and 
1  HO  heautifiilly 
3.    The  young 


aOTTSVllM.K  AM)  SOLDIKli. 


85 


soldier's  t'aco  was  so  '.onest  and  lu'  seei  ud  so  to  <'nJoy  tlie 
fruit,  meats,  and  o)lu  r  things  through  tli"  glass,  that  (iott- 
sclialk  turiu'd  round  and  spoki-  to  him.  The  youth  started, 
hhishcd,  and  taking  off  his(.i])  kept  turning  it  round  and 
round  in  his  tiiigers.  "No,  iinU'cd,  1  do  not  joke,"  repliecl 
(iottselialk,'"when  1  ask  you  if  you  should  like  togo  insido 
and  take  dinner  the-e,"  "  Miit,  Monsieur,  who  is  to  jiav 
for  xX'C  ''I,  of  course,"  an  ...ered  (Jottschalk.  '•()  Mon- 
sieur'." was  all  the  soldier  lould  say.  'J'hey  went  in  ;  hv 
(Jottsclialk's  order  tlii'  hill  of  fare  was  hane'ed  to  the  sol- 
dier. Ih'kcpt  reading  it,  hut  now  that  111' lad  his  choit-e 
lie  could  not  make  up  his  mind,  and  at  last  with  a  deep 
sigh  lie  said,  "I  cannot  choose.  Monsieur."  (iottschalk, 
laughing,  called  the  waiter  and  ordered  ii  dinner,  such  as, 
mow  than  likely,  the  son  of  Mars  had  never  eaten,  and 
never  did  eat  in  afti-rtimes.  On  his  rerurn  hoiiu'  (Jott- 
schalk told  it  to  his  family,  and  said  lie.  was  touched  to 
tears  to  see  with  what  avidity  the  jioor  lad  ate  and  how 
grateful  lie  was  for  such  a  treat. 


CIIArTER  IV. 


The  lioaltli  of  his  mother  having  hocomo  delieato,  owing 
to  hi-r  grief  arising  from  long  separation  from  her  much 
loved  son,  it  was  arranged  that  she  should  go  to  Paris  with 
her  other  children,  who  would  thus  also  have  the  henetit 
of  a  Parisian  education.  This  resolution  was  spei-dilv  car- 
ried out,  and  the  liimily  soon  found  themselvi's  in  Paris. 
The  reunion  of  mother  and  son  was  very  atlectiiig.  From 
this  iiionient  Morca.i  heeame  the  sole  ]irot"cfor  o\'  his 
mother  and  the  youKger  children,  his  father,  whose  husi- 
ne>s  detained  him  in  New  Orleans,  having  confided  to  him 
the  care  of  the  family. 

The  great  success  (Jottschalk  met  with  at  Sedan  induced 
him  to  give  another  concert  at  the  Salle  Pleyel.  The 
audience  was  equally  distinguished  as  the  lirst,  and  tlio 


86 


ui()i:iiAniic.\L  sKh/nn. 


friiiflitoii  now  luiiiirlt'il  its  pmisi-s  with  those  i.t'  tin-  coimois- 

'  '  ',  jmisiiiiiir  liis hiiinl,sai<l. 

■  Vomit;  iiiiiii,  I  invdict  I'or  vou  ii  liitmv  siuli  as  tew  hum 


Hi'Urrt.    ThallHTir,  wlio  was  jiiVHciit,  jri-asjiiii!:  liis  haiul,sai<l. 

laii,  I  invdict  I'or  you  a  ' 
havo  yi't  sct-ii 


"A'youiii;  iiiaiiist,"  savH  a  critic  on  tliis  occasion,  '•  ot  a 
most  proniisintr  future,  Vl;.  (Sottschalk,  whom  tiic  salons  so 
rt'aililv  rcccivctl  into  th»'ir  protection,  lias  Just  |»ert'orme(l 
l.uMicly  in  tiie  Salle  IMeyel.  Horn  upon  the  hanks  of  the 
Mississippi,  he  seems  t(»  have  hrout-ht  to  the  Old  World 
sontis  which  he  had  irathered  'ui  the  viririn  forests  of  his 
countrv.  Notliinir  can  hi'  more  ori^inah  or  more  pliiisini>; 
to  the  ear  than  the  composition  of  this  yonnji;  ("reole. 
Listen  to  the  '  Uamhoula,  and  you  will  comprehend  tho 
poetrv  of  a  tropical  clime.  (Jotts.halk's  execution  is  mar- 
vellous, lie  jHissesses  a  force,  a  jrrace,  an  idiandonment 
which  carry  you  away,  in  spite  of  yourself,  ami  compel 
vou  to  applaud  like  a  mere  r'ii>/,i(iir.  The  piano  is  no 
loiiirer  the  dry  and  monotonous  instrument  \vith  which 
yoifwere  ac(inainted,  and  you  will  find  spriiitfintr  fr«>m  he- 
neath  the  creative  linirers  of  the  artist  all  the  tlmlnrs  of  tho 
orchestra,  tuns  Irs  saii/iirs  ilcs  insffiinu  ntn  a  n  nt. 

"There  is  a  scale  like  a  strini;  of  i)earls  leading  you 
hack  to  the  minor  key!  Oh!  listen  to  that  s'-ali-  which 
flows  so  sweetly  ;  it  is  not  the  hand  of  a  man  which  touches 
the  keys;  it  is  the  wing  of  a  sylph  that  caresses  them,  and 
eatjses  them  to  resound'with  the  ]>urest  harmony." 

Tho  composition  of  vUamhonla'  was  written  under 
the  following  circumstances.  After  Iris  mother's  arrival 
Moreau  was" stricken  ilown  with  typhoid  fever.  During 
the  delirium  which  accompanies  this  fever,  he  was  seen  to 
wave  ids  liands,  which  those  aroimd  him  supposed  to  ho 
symptonis  of  the  delirium ;  hut  during  his  convalescence, 
which  was  verv  slow,  he  one  day  got  up  and  wrote  out 
'  Band)oula,'  which  he  said  had  been  running  in  his  hrain 
during  his  illness.  It  is  composed  upon  four  bars  of  a 
neunrmelody,  well  known  in  Louisiana,  and  is  considered 
one  of  the  n^ost  remarkable,  as  it  is  one  of  the  most  ditti- 
eult  of  execution,  of  all  his  eimipositions. 

When  he  had  sutKciently  improved,  lie  went  to  the 
Ardennes,  for  tho  full  recovery  of  his  lu-alth,  and  there 
composed  the  '  Danse  des  Ondjres,'  the  uaiue  of  which  ho 


I'  coillinis- 

iiinil,sai<l. 
«  few  null 

loM,  '•  of  11 
;•  salons  so 
|K'rt'orint  tl 

lUs  of  tilt' 
)l(l  Woll.l 
'Htrt  of  llirt 
V  |ili'asiiiu; 
HIT  Crfolf. 
clu'iid  tlu> 
loii  is  iiiar- 
inilonniciit 
ml  coniiK'l 
iaiio  is  no 
ith  whicli 
jl  from  l>e- 
\l)n>i  of  the 

■adiiiff  you 
•all-  wliich 
ii'li  toiU'liL's 

thcni,  uud 
»'. 

;tt'n  under 
ir's  arrival 
r.  During 
vas  seen  to 
)Ose(l  to  1)0 
ivalesfunce, 

wrote  out 
11  hirt  1)raiu 

bars  of  a 

considerctl 
!  most  ditK- 

cnt  to  the 
.  and  there 
f  which  ho 


liAMltorLA. 


87 


afterwards  dianp-d  to  tliat  of  *  Dansi- Ossiani.iuc,'  l.fsidcs 
the  two'  MallailcsdOssiaii,'  wlii.-ji  luM(ini|.osfd  uioneni-lil 
tor  the  It'tc  du^-  ..f  his  motln-r.     Tlif  •  Uanairu'r,"  ..nc  ..fliis 

lii'st  «'oni|M.sit s,  was  tlun    wriltfn.     At  this  pi-riod  In- 

made  tiu'  a(i|uaintancc  of  Mr.  Leon  Kscudier,  wlio  lu-caiue 
not  onlv  the  iiiti'!lii^-«'nt  |inl(lisiicr  of  his  worksin  Paris,  l.itt 
the  devoti'd  friend  which  he  remained  initil  the  death  of 
(Joftselialk.  lie  also  eomiiosed  >  Lcs  ("oljicrs  dOr,"  w  hiiji 
afterwards  iravo  ri-^o  to  asinirular  e|iis<Mh..  In  1,s4h  the  t-.l- 
lowinir  eritiei.-iu  and  notiee  ai>|.eared  in  '  J.a  Franet-  Miim- 
eale,'  I'aris. 

Wlio  -l.M's  not  kn.w  th,. '  Unml)on)a  V    Wlio  is  IIht-wIi,,  Imw  not  r.'.i.l 

""•'''•'"•'■'1'" f  fliat  |>ictiiivs.|ii,.,  ..xcitin^'il.ifKT,  «lii,|,  >;iv,.s  .■xinvssii.n 

to  th-l.TliTiK  (.!■  th.'  IWKIO..S  .'     Joyful  or  siid,  plaiiitiv...  auioioii.s,  jriilniis 
forsakcMi,  solitary.   fali^Mi.Ml,  ..nniil.Ml,  or  tli..   Ii.s'irt   Mil,., I   with  jri-icC   t|„'. 
n.-M.  lor.', 'Is  all  in  .lanfinj;  tli.'  '  Hanilioiila.'      l,o,,k   down   Hot.-  at  t'li.K,. 

two  lilaik-lint.'.j  woni with  short  pi'tticoats,  their  n.'.ks  and  ears  orna- 

ni.'Ht,'il    with  iMiral,    !<■    n;i„ril  l.nil.nil,  ilan.ln^'    niider  the   l.anana  ti 

Iho  whole  of  their  iMidies  is  in  movement  ;  further  on  are  .'nuips  who  ex- 
cute  and  stin.ulat..  them  to  every  exeess  of  fan.'v;   two   .h-ro,.s  roll   ihe'ir 

active  linK'ers  over  a  noisy  taml"uirine,  ai mpaiiyiii-  it  with  a  laiiL'nishite' 

chant,  lively  or  impassioned,  according;  to  the  pose  of  the  dancers  I  iitle 
n.-roes,  like  those  ,m  the  canvas  of  Decamps,  are  jumping  aronnd  the 
lidd  ers  ;  It  IS  lull  ol  folly  and  delnshui.    The  '  Uamhonla'  is  at  its  hei..ht 

I  his  attractive  dance  has  frciueiitly  furnished  alheniefor  instrmiient.il 
coinpositions,  which,  however,  have  not  ol.tained  all  the  sn.vess  that  we 
expe.'ted  from  them.  Th."  Creole  ails  transp,.rted  into  our  sahuis  loso 
their  char.acter,  at  once  wild,  lan-uishiii};,  indescrihahle,  which  I, as  no  re- 
semlilaiice  to  any  otli.T  Kiiropean  musics ;  some  have  thou. -lit  that  it  was  snf. 
ticieiit  to  liav("  the  chants  written  down,  and  to  reproduce  them  with  varia- 
tions, in  order  to  ol.tain  new  elfects  :  not  so,  the  elfects  have  lailed.  One 
must  have  lived  under  the  hurniiiK  sky  from  whence  tlieCre..!,.  draws  his 

niehHlies;one   must    l.e  impregnated  with   tli.-s •centric  chants,  which 

an-  little  dramas  in  artion  ;  in  one  word,  one  must  he  (Veol,..  as  composer 
and  executant,  m  or.ler  to  feel  and  mak.)  otliers  understand  the  whole 
on^'inality  of  '  Haiiihonla.' 

We  have  .liscovered  this  Crcide  composer  ;  an  American  roniix.ser,  h.m 
J'icii.  \es,  indeed,  an<l  a  jiianist  compos.. r  and  iilaver  of  the  lii.'hest 
ordi-r,  who  as  yet  is  .miy  known  in  the  aristocratii^  sahuis  of  I'aris'and 
whose  name  will  soon  make  a  Kreat  noise.  We  have  (rernian  piaiiisi, 
Iliin-.arian,  Hiissian,  Italian  i.ianists.  We  have  ended  l,y  .tiscoverin.' 
iM-.Mich  pianists  ;  and  now  we  liave  an  American  pianist.  His  name  is 
<iottsclialk.  Close  the  lips,  advance  the  ton<;iie,  aj.pear  a  little  like 
whistlinfr,  and  y(m  will  Iiav..  the  key  to  tlio  ))r.uiiinciati<ui.  (iottsi^halk  is 
alre.idy  a  marvellous  juanist  ;  his  school  is  that  of  Chopin,  Thallu-r.-  and 
1  riid.-nt  united  toj;etlier.  He  has  taken  from  one  his.  lifrhtness,  >:ra,v,  and 
l.iirity;  troin  the  others,  tiieir  unrestrained  passion  and  their  attrai'tivo 
l.nlliancy  ;  and  I  can  assure  yon  that  for  a  hmj;  time  a  pianist  soori.'inal 
so  sympathetic,  has  not   heeu  seen.      Gottsuluilk  has  composed  several 

4 


X- 


88 


luixniM'i KM.  sKjyrcii. 


•'• ' '■■■  '  I'ir,,;!: ;',',, 1,1:  M»':,"".  ,ia ,.„<,. ■..  >i»»-  -i" 


trail  v.TV    Maiitilully  idiiijis  ^wo.  ...■   ■■■■•■•■   ■•    ,■;  .,.,, 

Vfti,  io.s   in   tlil.l.'tS  .".•..I.,  will,   ^^.,n.l..rlu^   lif;l.tn,.ss.      1  h 
/^     I   •    I"     •-   « m.  a  /.m»/ssn,..  variati.m.  «!...«.•    .armom. 


imiiiMliatfly  ii'tiiriin 


tlii'iiii"  ill  fc 
an-  uf  iliiri- 
,nnl  i,t  il  lllll, 
tllf  tllfllH',  'i 
Itiit  why 


i;r '" ;;;:  iLu.:';:  the  niias,  .r  .i,^^n...  una  tnu...,,). 


„,„,  air,  ivsolvcMl  t<.  make-  a  pf-U-stnan  t..ui;  ...  tl.c-  \   .>^i>. 

1,     1    r.^xt  ...o.-.,i..u^  .'.s.  a..a  w..it  o.,t  to  take  a  Avalk 
Tl!lK  u,tv..rthola...ls.a,K;,anai..l.a,.sal.so,..v.^^ 
i.vvr.,t.a"l.i..i  tnn..  roc..un.l/.MK  how  la.-  he.  l.a.U. MK,  a., 

..,..M...-..tlvhow  .r.sta.,t  h.  was  i.-o.„  h.s  "...,  w  la  v  1- 
luxl  1  'ft  his  ca.-i.et  ha.o-,  vs^vvUnv:  to  .vta.-..  to  h,caUa>t. 
T    h      ^.Trisc^o..looki,.,L^a.•o,...aJK.io..,..n.....s.     .ntho 

1     u    St  vc   of  a  viUaL.',  whiU.  he  still  tho,.o.ht  h....se     ...  the 

;  ;;,,  c.o....t.y ;  la.t  his  ^^vvn^^  was  m-.vase.     'X  ^ he  a^>- 

aL.veahle  sensatio..  of  a  hc-a vv  ha.iU  la.U  ..,.o.,  h.s  >       .   I     • 
T.iiM.i...--  .•o....a  he  saw  a  ,ij:e..aa.'...e,  wla;  .vpirdea  hi...  u  ith 

Bi.si.i.'io.,,  a..a  sei'.nea  ivady  to  ai'.-est  1...... 

"  Yoi.f  passiioi't '."  ,  J,  ,.  -. 

''  M  V  ,,assiK;.-t  1  h..t  T  have  not  trot  it  wi  1.  i.ie ;  I  lelt  it 
at  my'iii.i  this  iuo.-..i..g,"  rcpliea  CJottschalk. 


_L 


A.\  Mtvi:.\ irtii:. 


no 


jiiocK  111'  <'nUii 

•  mili'iisuf  Miin'. 

<1  It'll  tillH'H  tllll 

IHC. 

I'd   HIKII'/'    /',    tl"' 

(ii)ttn<'iiiilk  liiis 

IllH  l'llll'll'ill<'l'''l 

U\vV.f  111'-  ll<"l'' 
iial  mill  fiii>;i'iK 

•  iiiiildli-  I'liiUil, 
HH'tiu  wuy,  Willi 

rsirmlo  I'lnli^fimoy 
I's,  iiliii  |iriij.'i-i'H- 
(■(  is  llliull'  li.V  H 
(■  of  iH-ai'N  ;   lliis 

ftiT  tliii-   -.ii'i I 

Til'  ilifiii"'  ill  '' 
iiifs  iin-  of  iiiiri- 

III"  linlll  of  <///'('. 

•  til  tilt!    tllfllll'.   '' 

[ijility.     Hilt  vvli.v 

1  till'   1"'"   "'VI'll   1111 

a  hiuiilii'il  tiiiii's, 
\it  n-isci  iiil'i,,l"il'  • 
hii'li  ili'lli's  aiiiily- 
•il  ill  tlif  fniiit  iif 

I  alongside  of  tlio 

[lllH. 

lillliTO  <»t^  WCIK' 
ill  tlu-  Vosiil'S. 

II  ii  niri'i^'t  l»i'jr; 
re,  and  at  dav- 
»  take  11  walk, 
isciu'c  of  miinl, 

hatl  ^-oiK',  and 
inn,  wlifiv  ho 
II  to  liivakt'ast. 
I  liinisi'lf  in  the 
t  himsell'  in  the 
^t'd  by  the  dis- 
•n  liis  shoiil(U'r. 
ardedhini  with 


th  nie;  I  left  it 


•♦Yo:^,  yoM,  we  know  tiiat;  if  thoii  hast  not  irot  it,  l\,\: 
ward  niareji  to  th*'  L'Manlhoiise." 

Oottschalk,  for  ;iii  iustinit.  tlioiiu'ht  of  resisting;,  l.iit  a>  a 
crowd  ot'  idlers  lieiiini  to  asseiiiliie,  he  |int  on  a  Mtoiit  heart 
and  followed  the  licndarine.  Arriviiio- at  the  triiardhon»', 
lie  was  left  alone  for  a  few  inonu.nfs,  iiwailiim'  the  ina\or 
to  cNaniine  him.  After  a  <|iiarler  of  jiii  hour's  soliliide 
another  •.•(.iiiljiriiie  entered,  and,  seat iiio-  himself  near  a  win- 
tlow,  without  takiiiir  the  troiihle  to  look  at  the  juisoner, 
took  II  |.a|ier  from  his  poeket  and  henjiii  readiii!:-,  •  l.u 
France  Mnsieide,"  tluii  eilited  h.v  I.eonaiid  Marie  Ksciidier, 
in  which  was  an  aecoiiiit  of  tlie  lust  |irivate  eoncerf  uivcn 
hy  (iottschalk,  and  in  which  '  l,es  Cnllicrs  d'Or' Avas  in- 
Kcrihi'd  in  lariic  letti'rs  on  the  hack  of  the  pajier.  'I'hink- 
int,'  that  the  opiiortiinity  had  airi\('d  for  iirovinu;  his  iden- 
tity, he  spokt-  to  the  li'eiidarme.  and  said  to  him  ;  — 

"My  yood  man,  if  yon  wi.-li  to  know  a\  ho  I  am,  yoc 
laive  only  to  read  the  article  on  the  third  iia<re  and  hack  ot 
the  fourth." 

The  u-eiidanne,  who  had  iirohahlv  in  him  more  reline- 
nient  than  his  comrade,  louked  at  tlie  ]iianist  attentively, 
and  without  sayimra  word  left  the  room.  A  tew  moments 
had  hardly  ela|ised  when  (Jottschidk  was  hroimht  liefore 
the  mayor.  The  mayor,  who  was  a  very  tiit,  tioiid-natnivd 
man,  and  _([ni!"  jovial,  (|iiestioned  his  prisoner',  and  haviim- 
learned  his  name  laiiulu'd  heai'tily  at  the  advt'iitnre;  hiif 
(iottschalk,  with  the  perspicacity  which  characferi/ed  him, 
lierceivinii-  that  he  still  had  a  ("iiint  trace  of  suspicion,  led 
the  conversation  in  such  a  Avay  tiu;t  he  learned  from  the 
tfood.Mr.  Mayor  that  he  had  two  daughters  who  phiyed  on 
the  piano,aiMl  that  the  '  liananier'  wasonc  of  theii-  liivourite 
jiieces.  "They  luive  a  piano,"  thonu'ht  (iottschalk;  "all 
riixhtf'and  he  felt  that  the  difliciil'ty  of  niakiiii;- himself 
known  was  removed.  Half  an  hour  afterwards  the  yonnt;' 
pianist  saw  himself  at  the  piano,  haviiiii;  tln'  wl.ol"  iiiinily 
ol'  Mr.  Mayor  for  his  audience.  Thei-c  was  n  •  lono'er  an'v 
question  aliout  the  passport.     A  piece  played  like  that  coid'd 

ly  appertain  to  the  youiiii;  Anu'rican",  wl   we  talent  was 


on 


making-  so  much  noise  at  I'aris.  (Jottscha;k  was  invite.d 
to  spend  several  days  in  the  liimily  of  the  mavor,  to  the 
murtiHeutitm  of  the  geudanuc  who^irrested  hint,  and  the 


4Q  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

ffroat  ai^ar.pointiiietit  of  the  rabl.le  of  the  villasce,  wlio  liad 
fioped  that  the  ei)isode  wouhl  luivc  toniuuatod  m  a  very 

dittereut  way.  ,  ,  .  , 

Un  his  return  to  Paris  he  performed  at  several  e.meeit. 

ffot  ui.  1)V  Mr.  Leon  Esc-udier,  and  afterwards,  y  eldnig-  to 

the  desire  of  a  great  uundjer  of  persons,  he  gave  lessons  on 

^  '  AboiT'this  period  Gottsehalk  heeanie  aoqnaintcd  with 
the  celel)rated  I'rotestant  preacher  in  i'aris,  Mr.  Ado  plie 
M.mod.  He  had  been  very  kind  to  a  person  ni  whom 
Mr.  Monod  was  very  much  interested,  whieh,  commg  to 
ihe  knowle.ls.e  of  the  latter,  resulted  m  a  warni  tnend- 
Bhip,  and  in^iottsehalk  beeoming  a  frequent  visitor  a  h i^ 
house.  Mr.  Monod  was  very  fond  ot  musie,  and  bottsehalk 
was  alwavs  pleased  to  gratify  him  Ho  was  aeeustomed  to 
sav.  that  ids  music  was  "  more  ht  ^or  heaven  t  'an  tor  eaitl 

On  one  occasion  Mr.  Monod  called  on  Gottsehalk  to  in- 
vite him  to  spend  an  evening  with  him,  to  meet  some  ot 
his  English  tVien.ls  then  in  I'aris.  Gottsehalk  was  not  at 
home.  ^  Ah  he  was  returnino:  he  met  him  m  the  street. 
AVhile  talkino-  together  a  poor  woman  came  up  and  asked 
them  for  aim?.  Mr.  Monod,  wishing  to  discover  it  he  was 
as  benevolent  as  he  was  talented,  left  him,  and  wate^icd 
to  see  what  the  young  pianist  would  do  lie  saw  him  talk 
to  the  woman,  give  lu-r  alms,  walk  a  little  way  with  her 
and  get  at  a  baker's  .shop  a  large  loat  ot  bread  and  hand 
it  toiler.  "  This  act,"  sai<l  Mr,  Monod,  "touched  me  more 
than  anvthiniT  I  had  yet  seen,  because  it  was  done  without 
his  l)eiifir  aware  that  any  one  saw  him." 

The  intimacv  and  friendship  whuh  existed  between  the 
Rev  Mr.  Mon'od  and  Gottsehalk  soon  extended  Uy  their 
respective  families,  and  subsist  between  the  survivors  ot 

''in  1^5o'tl^  woi-kshops  of  Mv.  Tleyel,  the  celebrated 
iriano  manufacturer  of  I'aris,  unfortunately  burned  down 
and  threw  a  large  number  of  workmen  out  ot  einployinent 
The  susceptible  heart  of  Gottsehalk  was  greatly  atlected 
bv  their  misfortune,  and,  resolving  to  come  t«^  their  assist- 
ance, he  proposed  to  give  a  concert  for  their  benefit  in 
rievel's  Concert  Hall.  In  a  week  there  was  not  a  place  to 
be  had  ;  all  the  seats  were  sold.     Mr.  Erard,  another  ceic- 


coy  CERT  FOR  WORKMEN. 


41 


age,  who  had 
ted  ill  u  very 

vend  concerts 
s,  y  elding'  to 
ivc  lessons  on 

piainted  with 

Mr.  Adolpho 
■son  in  whom 
•h,  coming  to 
warm  t'riend- 
:  visitor  at  his 
lid  (jlottschalk 
accustomed  to 
lian  for  earth." 
ttschalk  to  in- 

meet  some  ot 
dk  was  not  at 

in  the  street. 

iijt  and  asked 
over  if  he  was 
,  and  watched 
3  saw  him  talk 
way  with  her, 
)read  and  hand 
uheil  me  more 
s  done  without 

t>d  between  the 
ended  to  their 
le  survivors  of 

the  celebrated 
'  burned  down 
)f  employment, 
sreatly  atiected 

to  their  assist- 
heir  beiietit  in 
s  not  a  ytlace  to 
•d,  another  cele- 


brated piano  mainifacturer,  generouslv  subscribed  500 
trancs;  iuid  asked  only  for  ten  stalls,  hv.  Tlevcl  did  the 
same.  Tbc  banker,  Mr.  Xatlian  Treille,  Madam' .Mcnnecbet 
(le  hanval,  the  mtelligeiit  and  cbarnunn' woman,  cadi  t(K)k 
100  francs'  worth  of  tickets.  Mr.  Javal,  .Mr.  t)rtila,  <'tc. 
also  subscrdjcd.  Tlie  followini;  is  traiislatc.l  from  an  ac- 
count of  the  concert  by  Mr.  i<:seudier  as  it  apiicared  in 
'La  1  ranee  Musicale'  of  the  27th  of  April,  lh'->U. 

THE  WOIIK.MKX  OF  PLEYEL  AND  GOTTSCII.M.K. 

Here  is  oiu-  of  tlu-  most  l.oaiitiful  and  most  coniplct..  triiaiiplis  wliirli  we 

lav,^  witnossL-d  tliis  winter,     (inttschalk  can  in.scril,.-  tliis  eveninK  uiM.n 

)).s  lieait;   then,  was  never  anytliiiiK  ni.ire  soleiiin  and    more  animated. 

It  was  lor  tlie  workin;;men,  viitims  of  tl 


fire  at  Mr.   I'leveis  maniifac- 
lad  lirouglit  togetiier  all  tlie  artists,  all  the  lasliii.n- 


tory,  that  (iottsehalk 

able  world  of  Paris;  man,nises,  duehesse.s,  hankers,  m.-n  of  h'tters,  anil 
statesmen.  All  the  salons  were  so  full  that  two  hundred  oersons  could 
not  obtain  a  idaee  to  be  pres.'iit  at  the  tele. 

There  is  (iottsehalk  ;  they  elap  their  hands  ;  the  Celebrated  artist  is  pro- 
digious ;  he  j.lays  with  an  art,  a  grace,  a  siiirit,  a  lightness,  a  iiower,  which 
carries  oil  everybo<ly,  maniiiis..s,  hankers,  aii.l  duchesses.  He  commenced 
the  concvrt  with  '  I.al'hasse  dii  jeune  Henri,'  ami  finished  with  '  llamboula  ■ 
He  was  call.Ml  to  repeat  all  his  iiieces,  and,  to  content  th."  enthusiasts  who 
did  not  cease  to  cry  encore,  he  added  to  his  i)rogramme  '  .Moissonneuse,  Han- 
.anier,'  which  lie  had  to  jday  twice,  and  '  Uo<l  aav((  the  Qucn,'  which 
was  alsocalled  lor  again.  These  taken  in  accomit,  (iottsehalk  i. laved  four- 
teen times.  They  cried  encore  after  '  Mancenillier,'  an  adoral.leV'omposi. 
tion,  hcIkJ  il'inirn-  of  genius  which  was  ten  times  interrupted  bvajiplause 
Hardly  had  (iottsehalk  again  finished  plaving  on  the  piano  this  charmiiiK 
poetic  inspiration,  when  a  workman  of  riev.d's  factory  advanced  uiion  tho 
stage,  holding  a  majestic  bou.iiiet  in  his  hand,  which  he-  i.rusented  to  tho 
beloved  musician  in  the  name  of  his  comrades.  The  hall,  as  viui  may  well 
sujipose,  was  carri<>.l  away  ;  then  (iottsehalk  executeil  the  andante  of  'Lucie' 
by  Liszt.  He  is  at  least  an  artist,  a  great  artist,  who  can  interpret  in 
the  author's  manner  this  original  and  dillicult  composition.  I  wish  that 
Liszt  lia<l  been  there;  lie  would,  like  all  the  rest  of  us,  have  frantically 
clappeil  his  hands.  On  all  sides  they  cried  encore,  and  through  the  whole 
hall  they  rose  uji,  the  better  to  see  if  Gottschalk  had  not  more  than  two 
hands  c.t  tho  ends  of  his  arms. 

Th-  morning  after  this  fCte,  the  workmen  of  I'level's  factories  went  to 
express  theirgratitude  to  Mr.  (iottsehalk,  and  sent  to  him  a  letter  of  thanks 
which  did  honour  to  the  artist  as  well  as  to  those  who  wrote  it. 

The  following  address  was  presented  liy  the  (leleirati\s 
of  tho  workmen  to  Gottschalk,  the  next  dav  after"  the 
concert : — 

Mo.NsiEuii:  Paris,  22  Avril,  18.W. 

Nous  veiinns,  an  iiom  donop  camarndes,  vous  offrir  le  trilmt  de  notro  re- 
counaissauce  pour  la  sympathie  que  vous  avez  montree  pour  le  ualhuur 

4* 


42 


BIOGKAPIJICAL  SKETCH. 


m,i  a  ini  atfimlrc  cTtnins  d'entr,.  nous  par  ,->,.  cessation  momentan6e    e 

eratitu.!.-  .'Ht  i.our  t(.uj..u.s  f^niv.H.  .laus  n,«  nvurs.  I-.IU  m-  conlona  pour 
n  .l.l.ru.'S  .lui  avons  assisf.  ^  la  b.-Ho  soim-  d'hu-v,  vi  ,,ui  -iv'-s  .■.  U 
„,.,.•  a.-  v.M  s.nte.n.1.0  avoc  la  ,,lus  vive  a.ln.iraf.m  po...-  vot.v  t«  .n 
8  ist..nu.nt  .rU.l.f  ;  ct,  iM'st  ,.1-ins  .Ics  s..nti,u..nt,s  .,ui  n.ms  uisiMrrnl  et 
V  ,..',.  ...so  a.t  on,  ct  lo  I'laisir  .1.,-  voir  l.s  arts  v.n.r  a.ns.  ....  a..!,  a 
li„'l..st,'i' ...,..«  nous  v^ous  d.manelons  .l-accueillir  les  remtTCcuients  los 
plus  siiict.rrs  ile 

Vos  tr..s  humbles  et  obeissants  sorviteurs,  ^,__  _^^^^  Donoouoe. 

IjKVKHUK, 
(ifI..I.OT, 

Cuiiriox, 
Di.U'.fiu.'s  di'S  onvriors  do  la  po.'tion  d..s  atclioi's  do 
M.  rieycl  &  Co.  qui  a  ete  iiicendioo  lo  20  Mars.l&ul.'. 
A  Monsieur  Gottscuai-k. 

{Translation.) 


Paris,  22  April,  ISnO. 


Sir 


Wo  com.,   in  the  name  of  our  comrades,  to  offer  you  the  tribute  of  our 
g,.a  i  „r,to     tSsv,.>pa,by  wl.ieh  you   have  shown  for  the  n..s.o.-tu,u.s 
wl  i.h  e..  tain  au.onV  us  have  experieneed  from  the  te.,.pora..y  eessal.onof 
L 1.  r  oe     sion,.d  b.v  th..  .he,  a..d  to  beg  you  to  bel.eve  that  <;'"-,l;>f -"^ 
cratitude  is  for..v,.r  e,.<:raven   upon   o...-  hear  s.     1-or  us  'l';li'K.";'«-;\    " 
«.  re  present  at  the  beautiful  soi.ee  of  yesterday,  a...    who  have  ha,l  tho 
Uas.m'ot  hearing'    vou,  it  is  mh-gled  with  the   liv..l>est  a.ln...a  .o,.   for 
•  ...  ...      o  justly  :.elei.rat...l  ;  a...l  it  is,  over.lowi..g  wth  thes....t>  meuts 

w  I  1  i  h  vou  a..d  vour  generous  aetio..  i..spire  us,  and  the  plea^ur..  of 
seeing  tile  arts  tln.s  .•on.i..g  to  the  assistance  of  indust.-y,  that  we  ask  you 
to  receive  th..  siii.>.i-est  tha.iks  of 

Your  very  humblo  aud  obedient  servants, 

iinu    vci^i  uu  William  Dosoohoe, 

Lkkkhuk, 

(ilMLLOT, 
ClllU'.O.N, 

Del.x'ates  from  tlifl  workmen  of  the  workshops  of 
^h'^ss.•s.  I'leyel  &  Co.  which  wero  burned  down 
March  25,  IbOO. 

To  Mr.  OOTTSCHALK. 


ClIArTER  V. 

.\T  this  poricl  a  stron<r  fViondsliip  Pi.rmi<r  iii.  l.otwocn 
Gottsc-hiilk  iin.l  tliL-  nol.k",  intoUiircnt,  and  .i^ood  Mi'.  1  K-y^-'U 
whose  iuflueiu-e  had  .irmitLT  vahio  in  the  eyes  ..t  the  vom.ir 
man  than  the  ai-pluuse  of  the  most  seleet  audieiiee.     it  was 


inn  momentanee  ile 
iiui'  iicitic  iii'oriiiiilo 
lie  sc  folirniiil  jiour 

I't  cjiii  avoiis  I'll  lo 
1  pour  votri'  tal'iit 
li  iKiiis  iiispiiciil  ft 
I'liir  aiiisi  I'li  aidf  a 

ifintTcicuiunts  lea 


II.I.IAM  DosoouoB, 

KKHltK, 
II.I.llT, 
iilMtlX, 

:i()n  tli'S  ati'liors  ilo 
Utio  lo  25  Murs.1850, 


s,  22  April,  1850. 

11  the  triliutc  of  our 

f(ir  tin-  iiiisfortmics 

uilH)rai'.v  <i.'ssati(iii of 

0  tliat  (lur  profouiul 
r   lis  (l<'lcf,'atfs,  who 

1  wlio  liavf  had  tho 
lii'st  aitiiiiratioii  for 
;  with  thcsciitiiiu'lits 

and  this  ploa>ini'  of 
try,  that  we  ask  you 


r'lM.IAM  DOSOOIIOE, 

KKKIIUK, 

IMI.I.OT, 

H.'U'ION, 

of  till!  workshops  of 
wore  burned  down 


'liiiiT  n|t  liotwoon 
•rood  Nfr.  rU'Vol, 
•Vfs  of  the  youiii: 
iiulic'iico.     It  wad 


THE  nUSD  CRITIC. 


43 


cliiiniiing  to  soo  tliesc  two  men,  one  of  tliom  just  oiiterin.ij; 
upuii  life,  till"  otlit'i-  near  tlie  moment  of  leaving  it,  so 
elosfly  united:  the  young-i'i-  listeniiii;,  with  interest  and  ad- 
miration, to  the  elevated  conversation  of  the  man  of  ueniiis, 
who  had  heen  so  mueh  aiflieted.  Mr.  Krard  had  fre- 
qnently  proposed  to  Gottsehalk  the  playing  of  his  pianos. 
Hut  althoui,di  he  admired  the  meehaiusm  and  liriiliancv  of 
the  iiistrinuents  made  hy  this  eelehrated  manufaetnrer,  (tott- 
sehalk  remained  faithful  to  those  of  I'leyel,  whicli  liad 
tak^'U  their  sweetness  and  freedom,  aildcd  to  I'orcc  of  cliar- 
aetei',  from  him  who  had  iu  some  «ort  breathed  into  them 
the  breath  of  life. 

]Jut  it  must  not  ho  supposed  that  the  sueeess  of  Gott- 
schalk  dill  not  in  some  minds  ins].ire  envy  and  suii'ovst 
adverse  eriticism.  He  was  earieatinvd  by  'Cham,'  an(T^"()no 
eritic,  wlio  laboured  under  the  misfortune  of  beino-  blind, 

Iniade  more  than  one  disaj^n-eeable  remark  on  Gottrdtalk's 
ji'ivin^-  his  eompositions  Creole  names;  he  mii>-ht  as  well, 
he  said,  "call  them  the  melon  and  apple-tree,  insti-ad  of 
'  Hananier'and'Maneenillier,'  for  all  that  the  publi(;  cared." 
He  had  even  been  so  rude  one  day  that  Uottsehalk's  friends 
took  it  in  hand,  and  wished  to  eall  him  to  aeeount.     This, 
however,  (Jottschalk   would  in  no  wise   permit,  and    the' 
matter  droppe.l  for  some  time.     One  evenino-,  at  a  concert 
at  the  llall  IJonue  Xouvelle,  _o;iven  by  the  wonderful  little 
pianist  Tito  Mattei,  (Jottschalk,  who  had  l)een  to  hear  him, 
on  eomins?  out  after  the  concert,  was  stopped  bv  the  crowd 
on  the  top  of  the  stairs,  and  saw  at  his  elbow  h'is  blind  foe, 
Avho  was  vaiidy  endeavourino;  to  secure  a  footiuij;  to  o-ot 
down.     Gottschalk,  without  bciui,'  recoo-nized,  hei"i)ed  liim 
down  to  the  door,  where  the  critic  metNvith  his  assistant, 
lurnmg  round,  he  asked  to  whom  he  was  indebted  for  t)ie 
kindness.     Gottschalk  simply  uttered  his  name,  and  left. 
*rom  that  day  he  counted  one  more  admirer,  and,  we  may 
say,  trained  one  more  frienih 

We  may  add  another  anecdote  as  further  displavinj?  his 
character.  One  evenin<r,  by  invitation,  he  plaved  at  Lord 
lud(U-s,  m  the  Champs  Elys6es.  Cominu;  out  from  tho 
party  about  two  o'eloek  in  the  mornin-r— it  was  a  tine, 
balmy  sununer  mornin,<r— he  had  jiroceeiU'd  but  a  short 
distance  when  he  was  stopped  by  a  man  who  held  a  lar-re 


,  DlonRSPIlKAL  SKETCH. 

r„l,l,>.,v.  ■•  l.a  liouis..  ..„  la  ";•■./".':',;',.  .-.kct, 
„,ul  «,Ul,  ••  My  p"l  n>an   1  l.avi  n     ^  >     >    ,    ..n,.  lav,.,,,-, 

yoj^torday,  luul  i  ii.iM.  a  lain  .^  luurhase 

ioul-^   iin.l  no  work  yf''f^\^^^)^^ 

l>muHor  tlK-in. '     ^'^>^V'  T  i      o  no  mm^    ban  this," 

ta  .  n>  ^orrv  niv  «j;ooil  man,  1  lia\e  no  moic 

^    .1      1      A1....V  fiM.'iiiU  aniontr  others  a  LK'oK  i.iii'i'j 
Swit/A-rlan.l.     MaiiN  ^V^'^'^:  "'';', 7,,  ^i^^c  invited  him  to 

v„„to.l  hh,.  fro,,,  ''•"'l*  "t  , 'w     'l^w  ",'«.ial  it  >v.ml,l 

^'fe^tnsrrtiwr  .!;;;:iirL  »o,.,o  .1...  ..„., 

I'aris,  and  ho  yielded.  ,,^,,,„„t,,ro    Air.  Leon  Esondier 

^'^:;tdertLook><>nrl5are,.u  muj.^^^  ^ 

schalk  had  nothm.^  read> .  ,  .f^*^"  ^  t^'.  I  will  unve  you 
to  take  a  ivtnsal;  he  must  lm\e  a  i.iece.  .-       ^ 

S)0^ranes  if  you  -^  ^^f^^  ^^  ,^^^^ 
Bchalk  consented,  and,  ^'^^^^-^^^'^^"^  ^  ^^^^^  critable  hiiou, 
the  next  n.orning,  ^•<l"n.>os|Hl  a  le^o   c,  a^^^^^^  ^^^.1  ^^^ 

two  hours  after  Gottsehalk  had  1  tt 


5ii_.„„ 


COS  CERT  FOR  THE  POOR. 


45 


rds  of  Front'h 
tuniod  round 
in  my  jKH-ket, 
mt  oiH'  favour, 
I,"      The   luiiu 
valk   in    front. 
a(l,sai(l,  "Vou 
a  novifo  in  the 
'  said  G.,  "do 
"Hun lily '."  I'ti- 
notliini;  to  oat 
:c  mysc'lf,  for  I 
lie  to  ])UiTliasc 
I  his  jiui'so,  saiti, 
ore  than  this," 

leave  France  for 
a  Creole  family 
invited  him  to 
iid  hitherto  pro- 
ion.  Finally,  in 
•neiioial  it  would 
Home  time  from 

'.  Leon  Esoiidier 
lo-  a  ]tieoo  of  his 
n-,  as  the  proverb 
[lis  oiroumstanoe, 
,  catohit."    C^ott- 
r  was  not  willing 
"  I  will  ij;ive  you 
»     At  last  Gott- 
t  and  five  o'eloek 
a  veritable  bijou, 
Vom  the  opera  of 
init   d'ete,'  whioh 
\h\  Eseudier,  who 
morning  to  got  it, 

o  the  young  artist, 
e  humidity  of  the 


place,  ho  was  seized  witli  a  jjutrid  fever  at  Los  I{ousscs,and 
was  obliged  to  send  for  his  friends,  who  rame  immediately, 
and  it  was  not  until  six  weeks  afterwards  that  he  was  in'u 
tit  condition  to  be  transjiortoil  by  them  to  (Jrandson.    Miss 

M.  J> ,  on  his  arrival,  bestowed    upon    him  the   eare 

of  a  sister.  After  he  had  recovered  suiHcientlv  ho  set  out 
for  (leneva,  from  which  jilaco  delegatidus  had  Iteen  st'ut  to 
him,  inviting  him  to  play.  Kvervwliere  he  was  grirted 
with  the  greatest  aii]ilause  and  admiration.  Xotwitlistaiid- 
ing,  liowever,  the  honours  which  awaited  him,  hi'  never 
ajijicars  to  have  become  vainglorious,  or  to  have  been  car- 
ried away  by  the  adulations  which  surrounded  him  on  all 
sides.  It  was  one  of  tlio  most  beautiful  ti-aits  in  his  cha- 
racter that  ho  never  forgot  the  poor  and  the  sutleriiig  ;  his 
hand  was  ever  open  to  tht";'  wants,  and  his  talents  were 
always  at  their  disposal.  At  Geneva,  ho  gave  cont-orts  for 
the  jioor,  and  at  Yverdon  one  for  the  bcnetit  of  a  hosjiital 
for  the  aged,  Avhich  ei.abled  them  to  add  another  wing  to 
the  building,  to  which  wing  they  gjivo  the  name  of  Gott- 
sehalk — which  it  still  bears. 

At  the  period  of  this  visit,  Gottselialk  was  only  twenty- 
one.  As  displaj-ing  his  ]»rogross  in  art,  and  the  reimtation 
which  he  had  achieved,  we  jirel'er  to  give  some  conti'inpo- 
raneous  criticisms  which  Jiiarked  the  ai>prociation  of  his 
sUle,  talents, and  genius  as  artist  and  composer.  AVe  select 
only  those  which  wore  Avritton  by  acknowledged  autlK)ri- 
ties  in  musical  science. 

(Frnm  La  France  Afitslcale,  18  August,  ISSO.) 

Gottselialk  had  no  otlior  reason  for  goinj,'  to  Switzerland  than  to  sock 
rest,  far  from  the  world,  and  above  all  from  I'aris,  that  j;r('at  fity.  He 
has  arrived  in  tlie  canton  de  Vand,  and  will  remain  there  for  some  days, 
silent  and  unknown,  in  the  midst  of  a  friend's  family,  haiipy  to  have  him. 
Hut  notwitlistandinj^  he  had  taken  every  ])ossil)le  i)reiaution  to  escajx! 
from  the  eares  of  cclehrity,  his  urrne  quickly  escaped  from  the  valley  in 
which  he  was  resting  on  all  its  echoes,  and  deputation  iifter  deputation 
has  heen  sent  to  him  from  Geneva  invitinj;  him  to  eome  there  tliat  he  may 
be  heard  at  least  once.  Tiie  celebrated  j)ianist  resisted  as  far  as  he  could 
all  tlie  seductions  of  wliich  he  has  been  the  object.  For  nearly  a  month 
he  allcfied  the  siifferin};  state  in  which  he  found  iiimsidf  since  his  arrival  ; 
his  streiii;th  was  enfeebled  ;  his  chest,  owin;;  to  the  coolness  of  the  climate, 
t'xperieiice<l  a  ditliculty  of  respiration,  in  one  word,  he  draiijred  himself 
along  rather  than  walked.  Thanks  to  (Jod,  and  to  the  great  care  bestow  ed 
upon  him,  Gottschalk  has  regained  his  health  and  strcutjtli ;  but,  as  all  is 


DioanAPiirrAL  sketch. 


46 

ti„.   Tirana  .lu.'l...ss  '•'"l".-^'^  *''";"(-,  .    ,,,ist,  w\...s-  ......l.-sty  is  .miumI    . 

Vautl.i.T,  t..  '•'■li'•i''''^'''''Vi      ,,  ,.u.vial  l.ic  .....«s  t,...k  l.i.n  l.v  th.;  La"' 

Tlottschalk  will  g..  ^';/^'^\       p"    ;'\o   ,UtUcwiutor..'ason 

and  will  rutiuu  from  theucc  to  1  ai w,  to  1>''  l.  focii.iKU. 

Tu.  p.of  u,.iv.-.aiity,  «'t'(^iri:Si- '-  r;:.irVi'-^ 

•    o  ..o,M.  .  Ift      Til.'  il.iiuaii'  of  '\'t  '"  *;"  '     ,    ,    :.  ,,  ti.iii"  so  i.lMiioiii.'iii'l. 
,s  a  rail'  '^.m-      '"  ,     ,•    ^^  i.raiuln's,  i>  a  tinun  •  .    i 

'*'t?,:;:Vthis  tin.', -^  mu.t  .....s.,..       ■-        ;;^,^  wos.',   inm 

,.,.nii>r  .,,,.1  o'l.'ln-at.'il  Anu'ru'au  i>iaiii>       ■  ,i„.  ,r,.aii.l.'st  an.l  mo'^t 

fonui.lal.U-  wlii.l'   lias  ip  i  '  I  1      "  .„.       „  t,,..  u-utun..'  Mtl    Us 

Kranl  lias  pn'sent.-l  to  l.un  !     1      ^^•'^    ..rVntri.'  l-.m.ls,  tl..'  in.'lo.l.v  sa.lly 
„vst..ri....sways,tl..^.carvu..-  y  li    t^^^  „.i^,,,,  ,,,,.v  u;  ask 

,,i,„   ,..r  ,1.0   '••'■f  ■>-t-tucU     f  AN    1"^^^.^  .,f  _„.,,       I  1...  will, .lay 

lJo..tl.ovo..,  or  a  t.iKU.'  "»  ";"'  ' '-.r       am o.l'  an.l  .•.■l.'l.rat.'.l  p.-otossoi,  Mi. 

ii;;-;;v=:uur;;;-u;i*.*^!  •*-  ■■"■■  "••■  •"-  "■ « ' 

,,lavin.'  recalls  that  ot  Liszt  oi   l"'^'  »   ';       , „,i  „f  uis  .listaiit  ,o,m  ry, 

-^'^!^ "  ^""-  tL' s..^r;'r;;  uiaS  y-  ^-^^^-"^  ^^-^  •^^'"-'  ^"'^"■ 

£sofUM"'Ha,iil...ula,'  tUat  n.'t^ro  <lan.o  ^,„,  ,„,.t..o,  of  last  wint.'Vs 

y •,,-'.;»..-,  marvoll...is  .•o...Vos..r  '»"    1  ;  "^  '  "^r.  (iottscl.alk  is  tw...nty 

yi-ars  of  age. 

iFrom  U  France  Musical.,  27  Ocinher,  1850.) 
GOTTSCHALK  IN  SWITZEIILASD. 

.  1  f   <5u-it7('t.land.     Tho  sojourn  of  tlioocl.^- 
Oottsolialk  lias  not  .ts  f  \'«f ^^fj^^    ^^ '.^^  of  trian.pl.s  and  f..s,.vals 
l,ra,..l  artist  in  tlii«  country  ^  f  J"-;"  ."^jf  J.,,  enthusiastic'  as  that  wh.cli 
T,  ,.,.,>  is  r.'rhai.s  no  example  of  a    cu  P"" '  ,     ,^,^,  ,„.en  h..ard.     lUit 


CRITICISMS. 


47 


wsiMo  for  I'im  to 
ml  rciiucsts  iif  tho 

)la-i,  ai-  well  as  liiT 
i,.iit  at  tlu'iiiiK'Tt- 
!■  tlii-u  ill  til.'  tirst 
ii.l,l!iM,f  tlifsniriV, 

II,  Mr.  Ic  lianm  'I" 
1(1(1. -sty  i-.  .'.iii'il  ti^ 
k  liiiu'l.y  th.'  lianl 
,.v!i.  Fi'.iii  til. ■lie.! 
tcrwnr.lH  to  Lyi.ns, 
r  Hfasiiii. 

L.  Ksci-DiEU. 

,cr,  iwn.) 

soiii.'  .liospii  artists, 
t.i  cmbrac.'  it  in  its 
iifT  s!i  iilifiiciii''""'. 

sji.'i'ially. 

Mr.  (liitts.'halk,  Ilii> 
event.  <1.'  se.  liini 
..  Lirandfst  and  iii"st 
•ksli.>l>s,  an.l  uhifU 
,e  n.iitiirn.'  witli  its 
Is    tin'  ni.'l'"iy  sadly 

mi),'lit  vU\y  it;  ask 


sonata  in./'  miimr  of 
Art,  and  lo' will  i>lay 
oratiMl  iirotVssor,  Mr. 
■ith  the  title  of  grand 

nstnuncnt,  and  wlmso 
toncli  you  to  tears  m 
'  his  distant  country, 
,1,1  tlio  African  sidon- 

,i,.teor  of  last  winter's 
(lottschalk  is  twenty 

(JUUL-8  ElCllllKUO.) 

,  1850.) 
s'D. 

he  soinurn  of  tlio  oel.^- 
riani'plis  an<l  festivals, 
lusiastio  as  that  which 
has  heen  heard.  Hut 
alent  has  found  appre- 
,iorth.'(irand  Duoh.-ss 
iuvitu  hiiu  to  visit  her 


.         7.1     >•■;  /*,"""",""■  ''arriare  of  tho  prnnd   duchess  wns  at   the 

d.H.r  ot    he  hotel  where  the  artist  was,  and  at  „teied  the  salon  of 

her  HiKhness.  M,e  was  in  ^i-at  cou'i-any,  with  her  ladies  ot  honour  and 
the  I  nncesses  \\(,lkons..ya.id  S(,ul;(,yanet.  The  Kraud  duchess  con  versed 
a  Ion-  time  with  (.ottschalk,  a  t^rand  collation  was  afterwards  served  „„ 
At  tl...  re(|iiest  of  the  -raiid  duchess,  (lottschalk  placed  hin.s.df  at  tin", 
piano,  and  all  the  piec's  he  jdayed  caused  hini  to  receive  teilerat.'d  f(di.ita- 
tions.  The;:raii(l(liicliess  afterwards  present. .(I  him,  with  clianiiJM- .-race, 
a  little  jewel-case,  sayiiif,'  to  him,  "This  is  not  a  t.'stinioiiv  of  iiiv  a.rmira- 
tioii,  hut  simply  a  souvenir;  let  it  sometimes  recall  to  von"  a  peis,,i,  whom 
yon  have  inspired  with  the  ^'reatest  iiiter.'st  !"  The  hex  inclosed  a  ma''- 
iiiliceiit  hreast-r  in,  forine(l  l,y  an  enormous  pearl  and  diamonds  from  tin) 
Jewel-lidx  of  her  lli;,'hlless. 

A  few  days  since,  (iottsdialk  was  presented  to  tho  tiueen  of  Sardinia 
who  conversed  at  leiij,'th  with  him. 

Mauik  Kscnuuu. 
(/nw  Mr  F,<,lll,lm,  (If  la  G(K,lte  ilc  l.aufannr,  28  \„ri'mli,,;  ISW.) 
COXCKRT.S  Ol-  M|{.  (iUTT.SCHALK—  \N  AKTIST's  IMl'KESSIOX.S. 
ToTiiK  KniToi!  OK  TiiK  'Iazi-.ttk  hh  Lai-sa.nnk  : 

M.any  friends  haviii-  manifested  a  desire  to  know  the  oi.inion  of  an 
artis  ^M-(,wn  f:ray  un,hT  tin,  harness,  and  l.eiii;,- wiKii.;;  to  acknowled;;,, 
my  old  n:„.su.al  experi..nce,  will  you,  Mr.  Klitor,  i.ermit  me  to  commiini- 
ca  e  to  you  th."  impression  which  the  talent  of  our  yount;  and  alivady  so 
cehdirated  artist  has  produce(l  upon  me?  •'        &  /  ^" 

_^  Behold  this  full  hall  !   how  many  j.ersons  hnvo  not  mentally  exdaimed  • 
It  is  a  piano,  ami  he  -s  n(  thin^r  hut  a  pianist  !"   that  is  true  ;   hut  it  is  a 

h!.Tt'man';"f,S','in.r  '''''''''•^'  "^  ^"'"^'  *"'""'"  '"  *''"  "'"''""'  "^"''^'  ''"*  "'" 
As  lor  the  pianist,  Mr.  Oottsohalk  offers  an  intorostinR  study  to  phvsio- 
nomists.  \\  hen  the  crowd  has  assemhled,  r..stless  and  m.  tli..  watcll'  .^V 
r^it-wr-T!'!?  '"•■"',. ■?1'1'"''"-  ""'J  ■■^».  i"torestin;5  coiuiteuaiu.e,  a  tou'ruuro 
latuer  p.i.llemaiilike,  very  pale,  his  oyes  cast  down.     His  physiognomy 

sadness!'  "'"'■■""•'"''^■'  """^  ^''^"^  i''  "'  '^"  ''i'*  features  a  trace  of  pain  and 

sup,  rh.r  t'llelit  ^"'*        "■'  ^^'°    ^'■"'"    ^''"    "''"    '''^"Smz^  ^ 

Il.avo  a  moment's  patience!  tlirso  touches,  so  cohl.  so  iimonsihle,  vou 
aie  alK>ut  lo  liea.  hecome  animated,  to  wee,,,  to  sin-,  hefore  you  ;  then-  is 
l(',Mu"V"f  i",  rr  "  ","'  t"  realize  this  prodigy;  y.m  at  lirst  listen  with 
douht,  hut  little  hy  httle  y.uir  ear  hecomes  habituated  to  this  tender  and 
plaintive  accent  ;  you  cannot  detach  yourself  fr.m.  it,  von  are  conjured 
unknown  to  yours..lf,  you  yi.dd  to  a  supernatural  for..";  and  the  artist  ? 
behold  how  his  look  hecomes  aniniat.-.l,  and  how  his  pale  tint  b..conie:!  lit- 
tle hy  litth3  coloured  !  how  his  featur.'s  .-xpn'ss  the  stilleriii-s  ..f  his  soul  ; 
how  noble  his  head  is  and  how  all  his  body  seems  to  grow  larger;  it  is  an 
attraction  without  .'xample,  y.m  do  not  dream  of  analvzinfr  vour  sensa- 
tions; you  ask  If  It  IS  music,  you  apidaud,  you  cry  bravo  wi'th  all  your 
might,  but  without  iiremeditation,  for  it  is  a  siiontaueoiis  expression",  in- 
stinctive of  astonishmont  and  admiration  (we,  personally,  had  not  even 


4H 


monuAriiWAr  sketch. 


i„M..ftinns  of  l.uii.an  HeiiHutioim,  \w  romU'ia  tin  m  .iii  i 

J:  r  i^^Vuiii:;"  r  ;:::.r«:;';v;:H'^:;  ^v...  vouai.. i  at  t.. 

foot  ..f.'v.-ry  i.agf  ol  llaciii.-.  ,         f,,^  „j,  ,,13 

.:;:!,:;r;,;:.t.;:.,R™s:;,,!;:vs :;;»,..  oi. ;....,. 

8inf:in«  n«ain  his  Hong  of  ""'''  ''"•'^J;"     ','',, 'I'l.v  that  .nh...,n  silrm.'e  a.ul 

public  whhh  maains  '"/I'^'^/'^'-y  "^.  \;;  .U' .V,.,  l,,v..  s-..ul,iu..  .vsth.ss. 
Iho  eyes  of  this  .auu,  l'''*''-,  ^  'f,,^::,  17..,  wl,-.  he  returns  to  el,ur,u 
dis.iuiete<l,  not  ahle  to  he  still  ""^  '^  '  ""  '  j,  „^  ,,t  lirst.  And  if  we  a^'aiu 
our  ears  anew,  we  see  th.s  >;"''f  ".''" 'T;^;^''  Vu.r  d  tears  one  ho.ir  fr-.n 
relleet,  that  every  sound  wh>eh  he  i^au^ts  t'  j^^;|,;^^,         .^  „,„,._  j.j,  ,.,,„,„. 

'::.S!.S=h:u:;:::!'"f^':i«tai;nUud  m  that  noUe  pride  without 

-;;:;{ ri^^Xe;:  "urihjr .  .0.  h.  si-^;.:;:,- -- : 
;:^.:it;t::nvrr;:^h":i:^:i!«s;:i:iM:i«b^^^^^^ 

able  to  ai.pr.-eiate  the  an.en.ty  of  '>''*  '      •^''  '.  '   ^  „,.  ^-ill  wateh  over  him 
knowled,'  whieh  he  possesses    and  '^        '  "  \,     J         ^j.i,,,  he  takes  the 

,.  the  sake  .^  'l'  S'l^U  ^v^  «  ~  "'^ -'-"  '^   "'^"'"-^  ""' 
jdaee  of  a  father— tins  is  uio  vt./  »  ^^^^  Sciiuiwamxk. 

friend  has  for  him. 

The  following  is  extracted  from  an  artiele,  dated  Lau- 
in  that  journal  under  date  ot  10  .Novembei,  18oU. 


Cft/J'frls^fS. 


4n 


(■x|)ri's.'i  tl.i'  mar- 
iiifiil  vilii-ati',  iiiio 

iillr,  liic  liiilldi,  tllO 

III'  sliiuli's,  all  tlm 
villi  idciihiiiii  anil 

for  (Hffli'ultii'8  he  is 
ill  (lassii'al  iiiii!*i<^ 
ami  i>aiiiful  xi'iiti- 
11  a  l"'ll  nix'  ^l"f«<i 
MMul"!  lint  iiiiajiiiu) 
iiig,  iimri!  iiuisivi  t 

w.iulil  ranv  lis  too 
Itairi-  iilaii-'l  at  tlio 

If  )ilaTs  for  UH  liis 
.)  our  »•>•«■«,  so  much 

i(.H  wUii'li  inviti-  us 
thfiilly  till'  iiiiloli'ut 
\u<i  to  his  little  oun 
liat  shall  we  say  of 
t  soli'Uiii  silence  and 
,  jirairies  at  the  fool 

p  and  cliarming  that 
while  he  is  far  from 
•1'  seen  him,  restless, 
I  he  returns  to  ehaim 
rst.  And  if  we  acain 
tears  one  hour  from 
it  is  true,  liis  reeoiu- 
uoldu  pride  without 

ream  in  tliis  world  ; 
lis  tlit.uglits  turn  to- 
tliers,  and  his  sisters, 

dmirers  of  his  talents 
■r  he  shall  go,  they 
friends  who  will  ho 
icter  and  the  feller  1 
e  will  wateh  over  him 
I  which  he  takes  tho 
lich  his   admirer  and 

Cll.   SCIIUIWAMHK. 

•tide,  dated  Lau- 
ittc'i-son,  a  oorre- 
8,  whirh  a[ilifarc'd 
n\  1850. 


Three  hours  hefore  ihe  openin- of  tho  doors,  the  hall  had  heen  taken 
as  if  l.y  .'ssaiilt.  At  half  p:i>t  seven  ||„.v  «,.,•„  ,,|,|i^-|.,l  t,,  Inipn.viM.  seats 
oil  the  ori'l."stra,  the  hall  not  h-'ini;  sulli.ieMtl  v  lar-e  to  eoiilaiu  the  erow.l. 
At  three  o'eioik  t^.e  steamer  had  hrnu-ht  a  Kreat  numherof  |.,'i-soiis  fioiil 
MorL'.s,  \evay,  Nyoii,  and  even  fioiu  liolh-s,  t.-n  ha-u.s  fro,,,  {.au^aiiii". 
.]  he  imhlieeoiiveyaiiees  vv  hlrh  arrived  in  the  iiiorniiij,'  were  lull  of  dilettaiili 
from  Ivurdoa  and  (Jrandson. 

A  I'l'iiti'iiilri'  (iolisrlinlk,  cm  finisiTult  la  vl.>; 
I'iir  (111  I'lilMHiititH  Hcccinl.H  III  fiiic*  imuA  I'liilmnti-r; 

1,'ion  nil  ml.'  1,1,'ml,  pur  m  il..iini  nm^;!,., 

V.n  riivU<:iiit  Hum  ni'iirs  In  »;\\a  hi'Iim  t;ii'i'<piirli'r : 

JIaii  k1  III  III I,'  I'lili.'r  t'a  .Iit.tii6  hi  ^-iMir,.. 

V.t  h\  1,111  ji'iiiic  Iroiit  u  ri'ijn  1,1  liiiirliT, 

I'll  I'liin  ilc.iix  d.iiivi'iilr  Kuiiiii'lio  i^  111  iiic'iiiuini 

Tu  KiiH  Icl  til  fiilrc  iiiuiiT. 

(Friim  Ihr  diiriir  Suisxi-,  /.iiiisdniif,  'J.O  /immlirr,  IS.'iO.) 

Mr  fiottsehalk  K'lve  at  Yve  on,  on  the  17th  uist.,  a  second  ronn.pt 
•vhich  was  icieived  with  the  same  I'lithnsiasui.  ,U  an  artist  he  leaves 
ns  a  uiiii|ue  and  inellalile  reniemliraiieH :  as  a  man,  he  has  .'ained  our 
hearts.  No  words  an-  suMirieiitly  iiowrfiil  to  eNpiLss  to  him  our  nro- 
found  sentrnieiits  of  syiii].atli\-,  gratitude,  and  adniiratioii. 

{I'nmi  iliv  F, million  tin  Si,\-I,;  Ihrii.  1   \„n'iiih,i;  lsr,(l,) 

The  American  pianist,  fiottschalk,  lias  very  r -eeiillv  ohiai 1  in  ,=lwilzer- 

l.-liid  one  ot  thns"  siK sses  which  oi.e  may,  notwilhstandiii-  /„  /,„„„/,V,-  ,,f 

tho  formula,  (pialify  as  dimeiilt  to  descrilie.     .hiinv  hind  has  almust  1 n 

surpassed,  for  we  have  never  heard  that  she  was  carried  oil'  liodilv  This 
accident  has  hapiieiied,  it   is  said,  to  (lottsehalk.     A   voiin",   iir,".|iv    and 

robust  (ieiievese-irl  waited  for  him  at  the  comin-oiil  ot'  the  ,i,i ,-;  'w  h,',„ 

the  inainst  liad  1 n  covered  with  flowers,  and  eiivelopiiii,' him  all  at  oiin, 

in  a  lar-o  mantle  took  him  in  her  arms  and  carried  him  olf,  which  tho 
frail  and  delicato  nature  of  her  victim  iiermitted  her  to  ,lo  easilv  to  tlio 
general  consternation.  Wo  do  not  know  if  this  he  true;  we  teu'it  as  it 
was   told.     What   is  certain  is,  that  the  young  pianist   preeipitatelv  left 

(.eiieva    alter    having    heen    the    delight   of   tl legant    s,.,jetv    there     liv 

playing  with  charming  grace  his  favorite  conip.isitious,  •  Mainhniil.i  '''la 
havano,'  '  le  IJananier,'  and  his  capricu  on  '  lu  Soiige  ,11111,'  unit  ,|-,-.t,V 

USCAU  Cu.M.MK'nA.NT. 

At  tho  conclusion  of  hU  oonoorts,  hU  tVicnds  at  (,"rand. 
so!i  lu'iii^t,^  anxious  to  liavo  liiin,  li  ■  iinallv  concluded  to 
pass  tlic  rest  of  his  time  at  tho  old  chatcau'thcv  inhal.ifod, 
which  was  cclcliratod  for  a  sicsre  it  hud  snstamcd,  and  at 
which 'Charles  lo  Tcmeraire' was  killed  ]Iis  visit  hcin<'- 
coiiiiileted,  he  returnc<l  to  Paris,  where  shortly  after  his 
arrival  he  received  an  invitation  from  the  Qiuvn  of  Spain, 
who  M-as  desirous  to  lu'ar  him  play  'Le  JJamhoida,'  which 
he  had  dedicated  to  her. 

On  the  12th  of  January,  1831,  Mr.  L.  Kscudier,  in  an  • 


BioauArmcAh  sketcij. 


sehulk  to  rui-iH,'  writoH  iw  t.)Uouri.- 

(lottBcUalk  ImH  Riven  j'- .;-„7;^    ,f   .    -l      I...  1...  H-v.vM  --,;  than 

,,,illi,M.l  IVU..     (iot  scha  Iv  .    '^  *; ,'  ,,i,  ,,.,„,„rt.  wind.  wr»  onn.i.l.T- 

in  1 sy.     At  Yvnlou    »'••      '         ,^      ^  ,  ,,^,y„„„  lor  II...  a^'..,l  ;  ono  w>  .« 

„r.wrnt.vl  to  la.u  at  l.ausan...'.     '^^  ';''',     ,,    ,,•  t,„.  ,,,11..-..  pr..s..nl...l  to 

;;;r..s,,on,UM,  ........>-.     '  ^;;;:  V- -  .'  -  lan,l  th..  n,.,.oarann,  .-f  thin 

;  i;.„t  artist.  Ho  l.as  carnnl  --^J  ^  ^  ^ :  \,J  ,.„„,  r..as..n  O.r  writ- 
^'  •-"liJ.ra^y  ::ri-.'M';.ttlrU,  iLt ...  wa.  aavu.,cin«  at  a  ra.ul 
^^:bSl^":i:^a::;l'o:>;;^a  fe.  aay«  in  ran.;  .e  i.  exrocted  in 
Spain. 

13  April,  ISul. 

•1  n  wi,n  U  thorp  who  flops  not  play  a  littlo 
TwPnty  /oars  .apo  thpy  saul,  fll';  .",  J  'Z,;,,,.,  ,,,,o  .lo...  not  ,.lay  on  I 
on  th..  ,.ia>,o  r  Thoy  T.OW  ><"'  ^^;  j  '  ^■;,!,,,,  ,,,iHl  ,.n  th..  pianosh.M,hl 
vorvwoin"  lttl'"'^'''l''V"'''\V  '.fT,,  hli..  lik..thal..r  I'aris.,  f..r  hmi 
;;;;,u.t  to..layn,.on  >'-' '  i;-^;;;  ll^^Uhith^!^  with  hin. ;  an.U.Hunj 
t,.  ,  ;,.aa..,  charm,  in..v,n  an.l  '-y-^^  '';'""  '^,,,,1  h.!shonl.l  join  t..,.x....pt.onal 
tol,avpanan,li..n...Mlr..H.ur,.sal^ol       b^  ;,^.  f....Un^r  fV.r  tho 

„,„,i,,a  ,,,.,Uti..s  --^'V  f  V,  .sJi,  n  n  u  a  farilitv  ..f  u...,.hanisu.  ...rn.-l 
M;htU'ti..s  of  styl..  'i>''lof'/;l'7'.'  ''?,",,  ;  ,i,is  last  n...rit,  h-  aHt..nish..s 
toth..hit,'l..'st.>Ntr,.n>...  l'''';:XT  ir  I  n  the  .•..ntrary,  Iw  p.'S- 
for  an  instant.  th.m  tL-y  "n.  t      ,1  of  h  m-  .  ^^  „f  ,,„.„- 

s,,ss...  only  th..  ..thor  '"'"•'J'^' '      '^,,.'^  ^  ;„  \  H„.„n  ..on.pany,  hut  who  re- 
j.lac..  artists  wh..n>  ono  s.>.  ks  "'  J  ";,,%'",,■,,„  ,v,.,,u..nt  ,v„u-rts. 
Luun  po^^..rh■ss  to  ..xctto  tl'--  f-    '•'      ';^'  ,  ;  /  „„„,,U  of  th..so  who  posB.^«s 
Mr.  (l..tts..halk  .s  on.'  .1  ;';;,^;.^\     ,„„,.r  ..f  tho  pianist,  all  tho 

all  th..  ,lith.r....t  ..l..n..;nts  ^'^  J^^^^.*^  'Vn  im-sistihl,.  pn'sti,'-.     He  is  an  ac- 
a,trihnt,.s  whioh  V"^''''''"    'r,.  .'^    .ow    ar  on.,  n.ay  .'arry  f.noy  in  oxpr..B- 


ictum  nf  Gott- 


.  fit  liniisfttini',  onrt 
jiliiyi'il  iiii>ri'  tliiin 
to  «'ay,  carrii-'l  olf 

10  jir ''ill*  I'l  tlii'S'" 

11  iiii.iK'i":'"""  ■■''''' 
iii;li  wiTt!  ooimiiliT- 
lu'  a>,'fil  ;  oil"  ">"H 
A  l)iiii'iii''t  ^v.■^t*  'i';*" 
1  wan  ornani/.i'il  ii» 
,.„ll,.;;.'  pr.'s.'lit.'il  to 
(if  Swit/.i  rlaiiil.  At 
i  in.'ilal  iif  lioniirary 
r(i  tD  fmiiiicrato  all 

ni>ii<'arancit  "f  tin** 
liiw.TS,  ftiwl  v.n-atlirt 
,m«hI  ri'asdii  fur  writ- 
[^ivaiiciug  at  a  raiiM 

lio  ia  cxpcetoil  in 


M-  at   this  pcM-iod 

niV()iuthoi>on  of 

(•nticnf  Kiiroi>e, 

OS  Debuts,'  I'ui'iri, 


)<\np<*  not,  play  a  littlo 
vlio.loi's  licit  i>lay  on  it 

irtlKll  tlif  !'•»""  **''""^'^ 
.  that  of  I'arisi,  for  liim 
witliliiiii;  aiiilforliiiii 
mill  join  to  I'Xfi'iitioiial 
,,uisi'to  f.'.'liii^'  for  till' 

(if  iiii'i'liauisiii  (^arrii'<l 
istiiKTit.lwastoiiislu^s 

the  contrary,  li''  l>o«- 
.  c'ati'!.rory  of  coniuKin- 

(■(iiiijiaiiy,  Imt  who  ro- 
iicut  ci.nci'rt!*. 
■r  of  tlioi^o  wlio  possess 

(if  tlio  jiianist,  all  tlio 
pi-Lstif.'.'.  ll«'  i><  iin  "t'- 
,•  carrv  fniicv  i"  oxpr.-s- 
tics  taki'U  with  rhythm 
it  ho  lU'Vfr  traiisi'<'ii'l«. 
g  sweet  molodios  and  of 


CRITK'ISMS. 


51 


srath'rlnK  tho  lijilit  pnasasri-s  from  the  top  of  tli.>  ki'y-1«-.aril.  As  to  |ircs- 
ti's^c,  fiijfui',  fclat,  lirio,  iirij^iiiality,  IiIm  playing  s'liikcs  from  the  IliHf, 
ila/./.lc'H,  n«|iiiii.slics  ;  aii>l  flic  iMfaiitiiic  siiiiiiliiily  of  his  siiiiliiiK  capriirsl 
tho  ijianiiiii;.'  raHo  with  wlii.h  lie  ninliTs  Niiiijili-  IhiiiKS.  »>•  .|ii  tn  hcldiiij 
to  a  Mcnmil  iinliviiliiality,  distinct  fmin  tliat  wliiih  iliaractcrj/cs  his 
thiindcrint'  ciicrnics.      'I'lic    siuccss.   also,  nf    Mr.   <intlsclifilk    nlicii   lii< 

is  III  the  pich •(•  (if  a  I'ivillzcd  muHicnl  audience,  is  jiiiiiiciise.     Tlicre  i<i 

applause,  traiisp.irl,  which,  tar  from  causing,'  (Hie  td  fed  that  vexatimis 
irritation  caused  hy  facliti.iiis,  exaK«er.ited,  or  ridiculous  cnthusiisiii.  nf 
whiih  we  so  iifleil  have  the  spectacle,  ime  is  liap|iv  to  see  and  henr.  At 
tlie  concert  which   lie  f,'av.i   last  month  in   the  Hall  lloiiiie  Nouvelle,  tlie 

UrcMter  jiart  of  his  pi s  were  encored.     Further,  Mr.  (Joltsclmlk,  (.u  that 

evening',  merit. 'd  a  eiil  ifiy  superior  to  those  which  I  havo  already  ^iveii 
to  him;  he  executed  in  the  most  masterly  luauner  the  sonata  in  ,i  of 
Heellioveii,  the  style  ami  foi m  of  which  I'lo  not  ajiproach  in  aiiv  wav 
the  style  or  .''aiiiiliar  forms  nf  real  i.iaiio  iiiiisic.  It  is  impossil.lc  to  p|,i"v 
hetter  the  andante,  to  ^.-ive  more  relief  to  the  thousand  aiMlies.|iies  of  lie- 
variations,  and  to  hetter  direct  the  last  course  of  the  liiiah)  without  IcltiiiK 
it  lose  anylhiii;;  of  its  ciintinual  and  vertiginous  anlmir. 

I'lcsidcs,  to  apprecijite,  as  they  should  he,  talents  of  this  nature  re- 
quires special  critics— as  is  done  hy  Ijs/t  in  his  ndmirahle  xtiidv  just 
puhlisliud  ill  tho  journal  '  La  Musiiiue,"  on  Chopin. 

{Fiitm  t/in  rmiJIiliin  <le  V Asurmblre  Ktiliimtic,  Purls,  'JO  April,  IS.M.) 

Imnicliately  after  the  solemnities  of  Kaster,  tlit-  series  of  mundane 
conceits  recoiiuneiiccMl  with  more  fury  than  ever.  Mr.  (iott-chalk  has 
Civeii  at  I'leyel'sasoinV  for  the  hencfi't  of  tho  workmen  who  had  sustained 
losses  owiii;;  to  the  lire.  Never  was  the  reputation  and  vouue  of  an  artist 
so  promptly  and  generally  established  as  that  which  .Mr.  (iottschalk  ciijovs 
to-day.  And,  nevertheless,  then- have  heeii  neithi'r  pompons  imtl's  nor 
any  sort  of  (  harlataiiism.  Mr.  (iottschalk  was  horn  at  .New  (trlcans,  and 
came  to  Paris  to  tinish  his  studies,  lie  received  lessons  on  the  piano  from 
that  excidlent  prolessor,  .Mr.  .'^taniaty,  and  studied  harinonv  and  coni- 
positlon  with  an  ahle  th.M.iist,  .Mr.  .Maleden.  All  these  laliours  were, 
however,  only  those  of  an  amateur;  hut,  unknown  to  himself,  the  ania- 
teur  was  already  an   artist,  a  ereat   artist.      The  memories  of  childl I 

recalliMl  to  him  the  n.'ero  airs  to  w  liicli  he  hail  lie.'ii  nui^eil,  ho  translated 
theiii  npon  his  key-hoard,  and  we  have  the  '  liananier,'  the  •  liamhoula.'  the 
'  Manceiiillier,'  and  those  charniiui,'  and  simiilo  melodies  which  art  and 
scicie'c  extract  in   the  most  ilistineiiishcd  wtxy.     .Mr.  (iottschalk  has  he- 

<■" "i"  man  a  la  mode,   the  indispeiisahle  pianist.      I!ut  the  puMic  who 

idoli/.e  him  are  nnmercifiil  to  him.  When  Mr.  (iottschalk  Iihs  pl.ayed  a 
]iiece,  they  cry  his  ;  thronfjli  excess  of  coi;rte-y  the  younj;  pianist  plays  a 
new  riiie.  the  audience,  more  ami  more  enclianteil,  jiVain  demaiel  his.' the 
jierforncT  jilays  ai;ain  a  new  |iiece,  which  thev  a;rain  tvi-h  to  hear  n- 
pe.-ited,  and  it  wouhl  not  he  rij;ht  hecause  their  demaml  would  not  stop 
li.'foiv  the  inexhaustihle  complaisance  of  the  author.  \Vc  have  seen  this 
exchani.'e  take  plai'c  four  or  live  times  in  succession.  « 

Mr.  (iottschalk  has  all  the  >;race  ami  charm  of  Chopin,  with  more  de- 
cided character;  less  magisterial  than  Th.alhere,  he  has,  i.erliaps,  more 
warmth  ;  less  severe  than  rriident,  he  has  more  fjrace  and  (dejrance.  And 
then,  all  his  (lieces  are  very  short,  and  a  great  wav  always  to  please  is 
not  to  wish  to  jday  too  long.  Au.  Au'a.m  (de  I'lnstitut).  ' 


52 


liionnAPincAi.  sKi-rcii. 


oottschalk's*  soiufiK. 

...).alk:  "A  ..•.■•"  ■"•"^^  '"  '''"'"^    '  ,     V     .N      .     m        1  •  viU   l.-.  l.Horo 

i::x r;;:t-i;f  ^i:^:^;;;;3  s£  E;;  rS 

".,irf..  has  been  dedsivo,  1  will  ov.u  say  truimi.hal.  L«>  ^  i'".H. 

Dm'ii.-  tlR.  winter  at  Paris  l.o  ,truvo  sovonil  ccn.yrts  all 
o\-  which  sLrHU'<l  to  iucivasf  his  ivi-utatu-u  us  an  artist  aiul 
a  iiiuu.     We  take  the  following— 

(From  the  Fcuilleton  da  Corsnirc,  Puris,  IG  M,ireh,  1851.) 
Uni  f:nU..l.alk  was  tho  groat  surp.iHc  ainl  attractim.  of  tUo  ..voiunR. 
I,  wm       l^i   u:.I^lo  to  t..ll  you  tl>-  ..ntl.usia>,nwlu..l;  I.;  ox.,  -a 

llios  a«ay  ou  lightnings,  ho  gives  a  uew  piece,  luore  t.auu.ng  than 


'■/;//■/<  /s.us. 


68 


■ior  tali'iit  of  (Jott- 

■  riiriii-'  witli  him 
IIm  will  1"',  lii'lor.) 
>1  iif  til.'  iiiiiiii'." 

n  ^;iiiiit.  Ill  Olio 
II.  (I  liiiii  till'  syiii- 
-(l;iy  111'  Ht;iii(ii  iu 
s  lire  iiw;iil'''l  vsitU 
liut  in  wuiidiifiil  to 
riit  tlic  .yiiiit.'  .•mil 
<icinliH,  rc.iii|MWi'rs, 
IHMlMtc'tttillllf  Hlll)o- 

,-.l  to  Kirir.rs  ll.ill 
(cciiniiaiiii'l  lli''iii'. 
,•,.  if  tlli'V  li.ul  IK't 
V  liapIii'llH  too  ottcu 

"iiinst  cntliiisiiistii'. 

iidst'lc'lici'ius  ])iccc.8 

■^iiiil  tliat  a  shower 

.■IVri'tol'  '  lt,lli:illi«T' 

iiiiiiuli'S,  aii'l  tiott- 

■  must  I'lithii-iiiivtic 
iau,'  a  Mnzmka,  'la 

could  ii.ilsav  wliiih 

atUiMi  is,  that  thorn 

hoch';;aiico,  aiiil  tlie 

ilioula.'  '  laSavaiii',' 

hicli   hohl   you  coii- 

(iiic  ;  ho  is  a  iiianisl 

r.     His  insiiiratiniis, 

•ou,  ami  his  iilayiug 

Icavo  its  luark,  wo 

llio  »tiu<turo.     This 

KrttlDIIUi. 

oriil  ('(iiiivrts,  all 
L  uri  an  artist  aiul 


„rrh,  IPr.l.) 

•tiou  of  ttio  ovoiiiiiK. 
which  ho  cxcito.l  at 
r  luorits,  (iottsrhalk's 
n  as  th(!  jiiauist  lias 
iM'ifoot  t;i''"'''  '•  '"''  " 
he  last  iiioloily,  which 
u  c.avmiiig  than  tliu 


flMt.     Tli.>  ftu.lh'iK'n  ntfnhi  cry  oucic  win,  all  thrlr  powop  ;  fhcv  ,|,.i,imi,1 

"".  i''"7 '■"•;","••  " .•''.''■'": !''■'>-  ^'  "'''■''  •■'"■  ""■■"■  I  'loni  „:.t.u''i„  .t 

•   ,    7?""  M  .";'';,"'  ""  '"■'«""»'.  l"'"'"'-'.  •■""1  inarvclluuH.      Arte-  U„tlH,  ha  k 

(/■'("HI  an  ,„li,!,-  in  An  /Vf/iicc  .l/,(s„„/f,  J)iri.i,  '23  Mimh,  IS.M.) 
Yo«    (h.ttschalk  w-,..   Innt   Tii....ln.v   n-hnirahl..,   ,„arv,.|l„UH,   innu,.,,.,.. 

f '"•':  ""•  r''""; ^  '■""•••  '  '•"  ""'    ><"""•  "  '"oro  wnithv  naiu-  thau  h,>  to 

hoinuiM|.h:,Mtly  carrici  ji.tu  the  w.uM  of  art.  I  |.itv  these  who  were  i„,t 
lu-oeui  at  this  nieiMoral.le  sniri'e  ;  to  the,,,  ,„ie  does  not  know  how  to  ...ve 
an  idea  o|  the  unsur|,assed  talent  of  (ioitsehalk.  Talent '  |  ,„|„|,,  ,,,"..,,, 
Benms;  for  the  vouiik   pianist    hrin^'s  into  the  worhl  so  encmuhered  wl'li, 

j.nimHt  coi,i|iosers  a  lo'w  lorni  and  ideas  of  which   i can  coi,i,.«t  ,|,c 

.ater.u.y  will,  him      (iutiM  halk    |,layed  ei^d.t   ,,i s;   live   we, nco.vd 

n  the  midst  o(  a|.|,|."iise.  which  hurst  out  after  each  i-hraso  or  each  varia- 
tion, with  an  ejecirifyiiitr  clliMt. 

(iottschalk  is  now  upon  a  throne  ;  to  overthrow  him  v  o,ild  ivoiiiiv  moro 
thau  a  rovolutioM  to  take  place  in  the  [liaiio  ami  mnoi.fc'  pianistsl 

lii:o.v  I'iscriiiKK, 

{I'lim  itn  iirlirlr  i,i  [.,<  Clmnniii,  ]\iris,  Murrh  2'^,  ]>:,1.) 
Ahov„„lI    it   is  the  sentiment  which  HelzoH  niH,  n.Kl  .arries  me  aloUL' 
with  It  111  the  won.h.rlnl  execution  of  Mr.  (iotfschnlk.      The   uiost    ililelli- 
Keiit  and  most  inspired  orchestra  in  tlio  world  (even  if  it  was  the  Conser- 
vatoire s    could  not  luterpicl  the  .entree  of  th,.' Concerto'  of  WelM.rhetter 

hau  (iottschalk  ,l,d.       t  would   I,, i,|ivdillic,.lt   to  render  the  ^..vat 

piuLo  ot  IJeuthoveii  with  more  warmth   in,l  force  th.iii  he. 


T.VXIl.K    llKI.oIlli. 


Tho  fulI.nviMg  iK  l.y  Tlit'oplalo  CJuuIk'I',  tliu  cTlchiatL'.l 
ri'i'iicli  ('fit If : — 

(/•';om  /■h,!l//lnn  tlv  In  Pn.i^r,  Ihri.i,  31  Afnirl,,  ]K>1.) 

An  orifrinality    marked   hy  ^^M,d  taste  and  a  littl centricitv,  ilovoi.l 

of  charlatanism  have  always  appeared  to  us  the  two  chh.f  ,,„alities  i„  ,,., 
artist  ol   true  tahnt  ;  we  have  Mkewise  suhmitted  ourselves  unreserv!  dl" 

fir  '\  rim     ;'.'",'  "'  T"}V^'-'  ;""'  "''  '•"''"''■■•"i""  •■'-•  ^I''-  "ottschalk  froui  the 

(Irst  time  that  we  had  the  pleasure  of  hearing  him.     Am.uiK  o„r  il.,r 

pianists  to-day  there  are  hut  few  who  hav,.  known  h..w  to  creat,.  for  them- 
selves an  iiicontestahle  individuality.  I.jszt,  IV-ict,  and  Thalhen-  ..p. 
the  ,,oints  of  comparison  ordinarily  .liosen  hy  t;.c  puolic  whe,,  it  ,irsircs 
to  measure  the  value  of  their  imitalor.s  or  of  their  followers  without 
knowiiif;  It.  iiMoiii, 

II  is,  then,  nmreilifflcnlt  than  one  mi-ht  rhink  to,leparf  from  the  l„.ateu 

Vn   r  M    .    1  ''V'"  'l"  ""■",';■'"  ''''■' '-''""J-'^i'l"  ll'ose  of  the  masters.     If 

Mdualit.v  which  escapes  so  -uany  others,  it  is  perhaps  owiu-  to  tl„.  fact 
that  alter  having  fonued  his  talent  hy  .solid  sludie,,.  he  has  lefl  i,  o 
h-i!^"  Vm^'mT  V'l'  *'"' f!""™"  ^"^•"■"■^'s  of  his  country,  fro,,,  which  l,o 
has  biou-ht  hack  tons  the  colours  and  iiorfumes.     What   ideascs   us  ih 


54 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 


niusio,  as  in  all  other  things,  is  novolty  ;  and  wo  have  also  been  as  m«  1 
c  annVrby  the  n>..l.>,lious  ccrin  of  tho  Amencan  artist,  as  "■  e  alroa  > 
ha^'t     e  M.  by  the  chants  of  tho  Muew.in,  and  the  reyer.es  under  the  pa     « 
which  i^i'feu  David  and  Ernest  Keyer  have  noted  with  their  souvenn. 

"'Arilis'last  concert,  Gottschalk  had  the  applause  of  tho  vrhole  ball 
TlH.  '  S-n      ie^  eneo're,  and   tho  young  artist  yielded   himself  wUbon 
aieetation,  and  with  the  most  perfect  courtesy,  to  tho  demands  ol  hi= 
audience. 


CIIArTER  VI. 

Gottschalk    returned  from    Switzerland    in    Oc-toV.er. 
Shortly  after  his  arrival  in  Paris  he  reeeived  »"  invitation 
from  the  (iueen  of  Spain,  to  whom  he  had  dedieated     It 
Bamhonla,'   to  visit  Ma.lrid.     His  iiime  as  an  ^^ 
rearhed  her  ears,  and  she  was  desirous  ot  hearing  him. 
Durino-  the  winter  he  gave  several  eoneerts  m  J  ans.     .\t 
this  i,rriod  his  father  arrived  from  New  Orleans  o,,  a  visi 
to  hil  tiunily.     It  was  very  touehiiig  to  see  the  V^^^/^ 
hai.piness   of  the  tather  at  heholdmg  the   suceess  (;t  In. 
nuirh  loved  son  f<n-  whom  he  had  made  so  many  sa  "rifiees 
After  several  months  passed  together  Gottsciialk  set  out 
for  Madrid  in  oomrany  with  his  father,  who  Yaydecl  ^    b 
him  as  far  as  Bordeaux,  where   they  par  ed    ^;ott    halk 
ao-reeing  to  meet  his  father  m  the  United  States  the  to  1- 
Imvin-  sprino-.     The  newsi-apers  of  the  south  ot  1  ra.jec.  had 
all  hmdded^his  coming,  and  he  ;^^«%^^-^'V«^^^^''\ 'y\'.V -l  !',' 
greatest  enthusiasm.     After    eavmg  Boi^eaux  ^e  Mjited 
I'au,  Tarbes.  Bavonne,  and  other  places  ot  note.     Hi-  tame 
liad  precede.1  liini,  an<l  every  additiona  concert  seeuK'd  onl) 
to  increase  it.     Not  only  was  he  admired  as  an  ai-tist  tuu 
composer,  but  as  a  philanthropist  and  as  one  of  the  m  > 
cburitable  and  u'eiierous  of  men.   _  Concerts  were  given  loi 
ihe  benetit  of  the  poor,  and  donations  made  to  hospitaK 

Vhile  at  Bordimx  Mgr.  Donnet,  Cardinal  .Arc-ld)ishop 
of  r.ordeaux,  i-'ave  him  a  grand  dinner,  at  which  manj 
hishops  an.l  other  .lignitaries  of  the  church  were  prc^e  i  • 
As  conveying  the  best  idea  of  the  impression  he  made  and 


I  been  as  much 
as  'Vf  already 
luler  the  palms 
huir  souvenirs 

ho  whole  hall, 
liiiiself  without 
Aeuiauds  of  his 


in    Oi't()V)or. 
an  invitation 
:k-(licatL'(l  '  K' 
in  artifit  bad 
lioarino;  liini. 
in  I'aris.     At 
ans  on  a  visit 
:lie  ]ii-i(lo  and 
mwoss  of  Ins 
any  sa  'i-ifiecs. 
C'iialk  sot  ont 
travclod  with 
;1,  Gottsclialk 
States  the  tbl- 
of  France  liad 
mod  with  the 
ux  lie  visite<l 
)te.     His  fame 
rt  scern'.'d  only 
s  an  artist  and 
ue  of  the  in()st 
kverc  given  for 
to  hospitals, 
lal  Arehbishop 
:,  whieh    many 
1  were  present, 
m  he  made  and 


CRITICISMS. 


65 


the  maimer  in  winch  lie  was  received,  wo  refer  to  the  fob 
lowing  coiitomporaiieouH  notices  and  criticisms: — 

{From  the.  Courrnr  de  !u  Gironde,  Bordeaux,  20  June,  IS.'il.) 

Tho  last  Wednwday  of  Mr.  and  Madme. was  magnificent.     Not- 

withstandin);  tropiial  heat  and  tlie  seductions  of  the  country,  «  hiih  re- 
tained all  tliu  r/ite  of  our  society  in  their  cliateaux  and  vilUs,  tlie  salons 
of  Afr.  and  Madnie. were  literally  invaded. 

I'radier,  tho  great  sculptor,  tho  author  of  so  many  chefs  (riniire,  tho 
Praxiteles  of  th's  nineteenth  century,  on  his  way  througli  Hordeaux,  was 
presi'iit  at  this  delightful  sdin'e,  at  wliich  Mad.  hahorde,  the  adniiral)le 
cantatrice,  and  (iottsc;!alk,  tho  celcLrated  pianist,  had  very  willingly  lout 
their  si'rvices. 

As  to  tiottschalk  everybody  knows  the  iinnienso  elTect  which  he  alwavs 
produces.  At  half-past  two  in  the  morning  he  was  still  at  the  piano; 
applauded,  surrounded,  fitted,  they  gave  liim  no  r.'st.  After  many  of  his 
new  and  nnpublishecl  compositions,  they  wished  to  hear  again  '  Mancenil- 
lier,'  the  '  Dansedes  Omlires,'  '  (rod  fea\e  the  Queen,'  '  LaCluisse  du.leiine 
Henri,'  '  Lucia,'  the  '  Carnaval  de  Venise,'  tho  '  Mouvement  iierpeluel' 
of  Welior.  What  nH)rc  ca'\  I  say  ?  A  pianist  who  can  hold  his  audience 
for  two  hours  breathless  !     What  a  miracle  !  A.  Uoldi.v. 

(From  the  Memorial  Bordelais,  Bordeaux,  19  June,  IS,')!.) 

A  grand  concert  for  the  benefit  of  tho  poor  is  announced  soon  to  take 
place,  in  tho  hall  of  the  (Irand  Theatre,  tr)  bo  given  before  his  departure 
for  Spain,  by  our  illustrious  i)ianist,  Gottsclialk. 

This  noble  iilea  will  mi'ct  with  t)ie  unanimous  sympathy  cf  our  people. 

Mr.  (iottschalk  also  has  to  go  to  Libourne  next  Monday,  where  a  musi- 
cal festival  for  the  benefit  of  the  jioor  has  lik(!wise  been  organized. 

Honour  to  tho  great  artist  who  kuows  how  to  combine  a  great  heart  with 
great  talents ! 


(From  L'Ami  des  Arts,  Bordeaux,  15  June,  1851.) 

In  an  article  on  Mr,  Gottsclialk,  Mr.  G.  liarthelemon  says  :  " 
)  have  found  in  Mr.  Gottsclialk   a  peculiar  cachet ;  he  does  i 


As  at  first, 
not  imitate 

any  one  :  his  playing  is  neither  tiiat  ot  Liszt  nor  of  Thalberg:  it  is  still 

better— that  of  Gottschalk." 

In  an  article  in  'L'Agent  Dramatiqne,'  of  Tonlouso, 
8  Jmie,  1851,  Mr.  Barthelemon,  from  Bordeaux,  under  date 
of  31  May,  says: — 

Enthusiasm  carries  us  away.  Figure  to  yourself  a  pale  young  man.  with 
regular  features,  and  such  hands  as  are  seldom  made.  It  is  (Jottschalk. 
Gottschalk  is  one  of  those  <7iVe  organizations  who  make  their  souls  jiass 
into  a  piano-case  and  then  come  out  again  by  striking  on  the  key-board. 
Talent  more  i)ure  and  more  brilliant  never  charm  I  our  ear  ;  the  audacitv 
and  thunder  of  Liszt  are  tempereil  in  him  with  the  melodious  sentiments  of 
the  (Jernian  masters.  His  elegant  compositions  acquire  under  Lis  liugers 
a  grace,  which  cannot  bo  deaciibetl. 


66 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKKTCU. 


Thus,  whil-  the  ngh  han.l  'l^'^.  f-'^..^^'^^,  "  "  u  '  v.  rliginous  rai-iaity,  Hi,., 
fn.m  one -lul  ot  the  1^' >-'"""'  ,.,^„.^  „,■  „,.  .i„s  an.l  of  chn.u.atie  tia.ts. 

tuemeloay  is  never  h,s,  una.,  the  U^^^  X^,.   ,^^^     „.,^..  j,  ,, 

it   always  detaches   itsell  willi   I'l-aiiy  ^    Saist-Uikil  Dri-ouv. 

ijure,  as  velvety  as  tlie  Urst. 

a-yo,n  .ke  C,„nri.r  ,k  la  Gimn.le,  B.r.k.n.r,  21  M,„  1S51.) 

Mr.  uottschai.  will  leave  ^^:^^^^t::^:::: ::;;;: j^i^i^"^^ 

an.l  as  a  uiau,  for  the  generosity  of  his  Ui-aii  ^^    Uou.i.n. 

iiieuse  talent. 

Af..  I'   ILirtlielcmoii,  uKakiiil?  in  tlic 'AtiiI  ilw  Arts' of 
his  concluding  rcuiarks;— 

Mav  we  1,0  remitted  t.  say  in  ^-}f^::^:^^,^:^^^ 

;^:.ar'-;?verr^e^S  t^U  itT^j;  U.i.  trait;sin.,le  as  it  is,  is  that  ol 
'^ifSorirto  fln,l  all  these  qualities  united  in  the  same  man  :  talent, 
modesty,  bounty,  and  t-'i'";'""';''-.  ,  .,,„„.  ,.„„„„  persons  who  on  Thursday 

,,;i;?„*;;s,.i;:n;i:  «>':■■«'  ;L,/v,u«"i„u.  ..a  «.«■« 

and  will  say  with  them:—  ,,,,,,  i,._^,is  to  plory,  to 

will  be  blessed  by  the  poor ! 

(From  rimUcateur,  Bordeaux,  20  Jub,,  1P51.) 

,     X,     f<  ..t«,.h'.lk  for  the  henefit  of  the  poor  has 

!r;;;i",ss"  ^-^iSvl  ■'-'"--"■'  "-"'t"?-^ 


CIiITlCls^fs. 


57 


frnm  the  Cmirricr 

tiiiio,  it  eli.iinis. 
L  !ill  its  cDiiliiurs, 
,us  nii>iility,  lliort 
loiiml  till-  iiii'li>'ly 

t:lir()iiiatii;  traits. 

to  di'scriln'  ;   liilt 

wliicli  rovcis  it ; 
ii;   last  uott'  is  iiS 

-KlElL  Dll'OL'V. 

,„;  18;)!.) 
ivciiir  as  an  artist 
,  fqiial  to  liis  im- 
A.  IVniii.N. 

mi  cU'S  Arts'  of 
10  poor,  wiys,  in 


tsclialk,  aft  IT  liav- 
aiiil  to  tin"  I""""  *'"' 

<  of  A 'li'  S? • 

tiow.'is  h>'  liail  just 
lo  as  it  is,  is  tliat  of 

!  samo  man  :  taU-nt, 

lis  who  on  Tliursday 
and  delicate  hands, 

1  h'ads  to  plory,  to 
tlie  iiowerful  I— you 


1851.) 

ii'fit  of  the  poor  has 
of  lient>vol('ni:o,  pro- 
ul  to  those  for  wlioni 
ans  and  aniat.'urs  of 
tliv  eagerness.  The 
;1  were  not  the  K'ast 

ahuost  the  same  as 
)Ut  tlie  risk  of  reiieat- 
void  the  difficulty,  let 
.ctTt  to  the  other  took 
at  the   ai)l)lause,  the 


bravos,  and  transports  of  ndujiration  were  not  diseontlnued;  and  that  to 
tlie  ^,■ltis^a(•tion  nt  havinj;  liecu  alile  t<'  l^ave  to  tlu'  unfortunate  of  onr  citv 
a  ter>tiniony  of  his  symi)atliy,  lie  lias  also  liei^n  aide  to  eonvinc.!  himscif 
how  iiiueh  the  i.nMie  was  senslMe  of  this  aet  of  geniTositv  on  his  ])art, 
and  how  much  his  rieh  and  heautiful  talent  wa.s  felt  "and  wortiiily 
ainireeiated  liy  it. 

The  tiisiiiihlv  of  the  coneert  was  fine,  although  rather  grave.  A  pieee 
for  two  pianos,  on  '.lerusah'ur  (the  opera  hy  Verdi),  composed  exprecslv 
for  til  is  ociasioii,  whilst  founded  on  meloilies  of  rather  weak  value,  was 
given,  neverlhcd.'ss,  with  conspicuous  ellect,  thanks  to  the  vigour  of  its 
execution,  which  caused  it  to  he  warmly  ajiplauded. 


After  iviimining  about"  two  iiiontlis  in  J^onloiUix  CJott- 
sc'lialk  iirocci'di'd  on  liis  joiiruoy.  ^«t(i|ijiiiio-  at  J'aii,  lie 
tcavc  a  (■(iiuri-t  wliich  Iirouirlit  out  an  article  from  Mr. 
ratriek  0'(^iiin,  memlier  of  the  Corjis  J.eo'islatif.  It  con- 
tains many  tliiiio-s  with  which  the  ri'ader  has  already  heen 
iiiade  aeiiiiaiuted;  hut  weghe  it  as  a  piece  of  contemporary 
history. 


(Fi'im  the  Mi'moridl  (lot  Pi/n'w'is,  Pan,  (j  Aikjii.sI,  Is.'il.) 

A  few  years  since  there  arrived  at  I'aris  the  son  (  f  a  gentleman  of  Lonisi- 
an.-i.  In  that  country,  wliert-  the  reiiiemhr.iiu'e  if  Fr;ir,ce  is  not  ellaccd, 
it  is  the  dream  of  families  to  give  their  children  a  Kn  mh  and  jiarticn- 
larly  a  J'arisian  education.  He,  thanks  to  his  parents'  fortune,  received 
lessons  from  the  hest  masters;  he  learned  fencing  from  (irisier,  horse- 
manship from  I'ellier,  and  IStamaty  taught  him  the  piano;  without  reck- 
oning (ireek,  Latin,  and  the  rest.  One  day  .Stamaty,  his  joofcssor  of  the 
liiano,  discovered  in  the  child  a  marvellous  aptitude  for  this  instrument, 
riaoed  opposite  the  key-l>oa:'d,  he  was  already  more  than  a  scholar,  and 
besides  the  mechanical  perfection  attained  only  hy  practice,  he  gave,  by 
a  thousand  traits,  marks  of  an  artist.  At  the  end  of  a  short  time  tjtamaty 
had  nothing  more  to  teaeh  him. 

(ireek  and  Latin,  the  riding-school,  and  the  fenoing-hall,  one  may  Judge, 
were  then  somewhat  ahandoned.  The  child,  heoonie  ayoungman,  t'l  It  him- 
self led  by  an  irresistible  vocation,  lie  g;ive  himself  "np  to  it  with  .irdoiir, 
with  passion,  and  he  then  commenced  hard  and  persevering  studies,  the 
prelude  to  success  of  all  great  artists,  (ienius  in  the  rough  does  not  throw 
out  great  lustre,  and  it  is  just  ;  to  burn  with  all  its  lires  the  diamond 
reijuires  cutting  ;  the  talent  which  owes  nothing  to  labour  is  a  chinnra  of 
idleness,  a  iiull'ed-u]>  invention  of  unappreciated  genius. 

Is  it  necessary  to  say  that  this  young  man  was  (iottschalk  ?  Some  time 
afterwards  nothing  w;is  sjioken  about  in  the  musical  world  of  I'aris  except 
of  a  great  jiianist,  the  rival  of  Liszt,  of  Chopin,  and  of  Tlialberg.  It  was, 
who  should  hear  (iottschalk,  or  who  should  appbiiid  his  ni'gro  chant  of 
'  Hamboula'  so  original  and  languishing,  or  who  should  admire  the  eminent 
artist,  and  at  the  same  time  tlu'  composer  of  the  I'lite,  for  this  new  artist 
was  both  the  one  and  the  other.  Only  some  juivileged  salons,  that  of 
Madame  Merlin,  or  of  M.  Orlila,  for  examjde,  had  yet  the  monopoly  of 
Gottschalk  ;  and  when,  one  year  after,  during  the  winter  of  ib-i'J,  ho  ap- 


BIOGRAPniCAL  SKETCH. 


m 


^8 

peared  in  public  for  the  first  time.  hiB  name  was  already  cclobratct.  and 

his  success  ^'''^'^l']\^^'l^-        .  from  his  d^'Ut  Oottschalk  was  Rr  ■^etcd  ouo  of 

Tliat  success  was  uumenst ,  '^om  uis       ,._„.„i,,r  '  '  Ossian,'  '  la  Savau.',' 

the  nuasters  of  his  ar  .     U  ^'^^^J^^^^^^^r.   licrlioz,  Fiorcntiuo, 

and  twenty  other  del.cu.UH  «"'»  "«^'°    .         (      ,,.  ,.„,  ...ine.l  a  reputation 

Escudier,  '"'''"Pl'^'^^^r      drluMe    re   "tation,  and  ren^U-red  lion.age  to 
i„.nticisn.,howo.ll)etoro   his^^m^^^^^^^^^  ^^  it,  received  tlie 

hiu..     (.L.ttschalk  had  thus  o.  o  .lay,  ^^  .     'f  ^..^   ,.^„  o„,y  g,v«. 

baptism  of  ^«"»«-'\,^-'''teuJd  ^  war^^^^^^  '''^   J"""'"^  ^f 

Summer  camo,   he  tr^vellwl   u)«  ar  ..^cited  an  enthusiasm  which 

notlun^lmtahmgovation      At    .uc^a^^^^^^  ^,i„^^^^  ,,,„l  u.o 

amounted  to  frenzy.  /^^'^  "  ^' /Jk^.f  es  ecMu.  At  Lausanne  they 
Queen  of  tiar.linia  loaded  hnn  witl  "'"'^'^/'|/'';;  V  ,.  admiration  took 
^;.wh..hned  hin.  -ith  Jowers  ^^^-^^^X  ,!g:.'^-tS>.  At  last 
an  alarming  character  lor  this  "'^'V^"Vvi,.vviTiL'beea  applauded  and 
^fter  havii^g  played  in  ^^^-'^f;^^r^^^-^^^'^r,.o. 
f,te.l  ..verywherc  and  '^^^}^'"'^^^;^,U  retained  him  for  two 
;;iS;  t^m  he;;^n:imf l^iJZ  hi^'^w  come  to  us  on  his  road  to  Spain, 
where  otlier  crowns  await  him.  j       ^         ^■^^Q  flrgt 

A  salon,  always  ^<^'^V^^^^^^£^i^,Z^Znc.,...>.n\>\.A  in 

elevated  by  talent, 'a'reception  worthy  of  him. 

(From  UlnternatUmal,  Bayonne,  15  Septmber,  1851.) 

Many  Journals  of  M.lrid   the  '  ^^^^^^ ^':::^:^ ^^^^ 
-^;:ra:^^r"^rS;ir  ^1  l^eblo-r     L  these  words  :- 

GOTTSCHALK. 

Wo  have  the  pleasure  of  --u-ing  to  »- -f-]^''^}  ^^^  ^^^Jl^li^ 
monic  Circles  will  P.^'Y '—  S'^^,  :\  i'  ,ne^  tho  distinguished 
the  celebrate.1  pianist  ^'"»'^'  f.  •"•*'•  '''',^1^1,^  has  been  passed  on  him, 
musician  who  has  '";;f «[  „^  ."^  \",  fi'\U  ma  vel  ous  execution  of  Listz, 
Se^aJlu^^ally  wi:  riS^sta;^il^»^i«e  -ong  those  of  the  Thalbergs 
and  the  I'r'i;!''"**';.  „  v^cmlier  Theophilo  Gautier,  Patrick  O'Quin.  de 
L£::s;'a;d'S:;':;t.;^'Si:i;rId  Cities,  have  tendered  the  homage 

'^^V^'''''.te^Tn^he  Commencement  of  this  month  concerts  at  Biar- 

UrC'^^lgel^givlt^tl&o  a  sentiment  which  moves  the  heart  as 

^tr;in.Si  tr  hav/t:-  opportunity  of  a-l-^ng  tins  notability 
who^  thi  foreign  press  pictures  to  us  as  the  beau  rd.al  of  «j  P'--^;^^^^ 


ARRIVAL  AT  MADRID. 


59 


f  colo1)rntLii,  and 

vasgr  !otc<lonoof 
iaii,'  MaSavaiio,' 
•rlioz,  FioriJiitino, 
tilled  a  reputation 
lulcred  liDiuagf  to 
T  it,  received  the 
can  only  give, 
liis  journey  waa 
.■nthusiasm  which 

Weimar  and  tlio 
\t  Lausanne  they 
r  admiration  took 
lization.  At  last, 
oa  applauded  and 
e,  last  winter,  new 
ained  him  for  two 

his  road  to  Spain, 

,  has  from  tho  first 
ence,  assembled  in 
Die  iu  character  as 


851.) 

rsor,'  tho  'Trilmne 

ity  of  tho  celebrated 

iu  these  words  : — 


s,  that  the  Philhar- 
Madrid  in  honour  of 
a,  tlio  distinguished 
eon  passed  on  him, 
execution  of  Listz, 
lose  of  the  Thalberga 

Patrick  O'Quin,  de 
jndered  tho  homage 

th  concerts  at  Biar- 
if  France  has  ?poken. 

to  Madrid,  wo  know 
some  other  important 
[list  has  said  of  him, 

moves  the  lieart  as 

irinp  this  notability 
a/  of  a  pianist. 

H.  Da  Costa. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Ox  1,19  arrival  in  Spain  he  found  honours  and  triunirihs 
awamnir  him  gmiter  than  ho  liad  cvor  recrivod  hvi\nv. 
At  15ih(,a,  tho  tinst  .Spanish  oity  in  which  lie  i.h-vo.l,  ho 
g^ivo  threo  concerts  in  seven  days.  The  entire  mvipts  of 
tJie  third  concert  were  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  mmiici- 
pal  authorities  to  he  devoted  to  the  Maison  <le  Charite. 
J  he  Ajuntamionto  the  directors  of  the  hospital,  and  tho 
elerp  acknowledged  the  receipt  witli  the  warmest  thanks. 

Un  l-is  arrival  at  Madrid  he  wrote  to  his  father  tho  fol- 
lowing letters : — 

Madkid,  17  November,  1851. 
The  Queen  has  not  yet  decided  to  allow  mo  to  play  before  her      The 
nob  lay  show  themselves  somewhat  reserved  towards  me.       t  is  saf.l  tha? 
the  Queen,  on  hearing  that  I  am  an  American,  exclaimed  that  she  wo   id 
never  patronue  an  artist  of  tliat  nation.     Whotlier  th  ,  „. ,"  n  t 

he  .•amour  of  it  has  spread  abroad,  and  the  courtiers  dislike  t  1  w  mo 
too  marked  a  degree  of  courfsy,  for  fear  of  irrititing  Her  Ma  ,  tv  ^ 
cannot,  however,  complain  now  ;  they  are  all  excessively  amiable  tow/irds 
me,  and  for  this  reason  :  li  a  Kxcelleney  the  Dnko  nf  l<i.,,w. ,  1  i  i  ? 
of  the  Queen  Dowager  Christina,  re^!i;^''n^t  ,^o  iy^a m  •ti:;:^'^;!^ 
in  the  kin.lest  manner  possible.  The  Queen  Dowi.Jer  !,"«  J  ,.  .  * 
invitati.m  tothe  ball  aiid  supperwl,ieli'r"J';:r^;r 
1.    h    list,    to  celebrate  the  anniversary  of  tho  bfrthday  of  1  er  daughter 

Madrid,  19  November,  1851. 

honour  that  could  Vo^^u;;C^;i:.^  n^'        lli  'ei.^'tl  ^hS,;;; 
the  ,,rst  artist  ever  admitted  so  freely  to  tho  private  apa^^iUs  oMh^ 

My  Secretary  immediately  donned  his  best  coat,  white  kid  gloves   etc 
and  escorted  my  two  pianos  to  the  parlour  of  Her  >fai..sty      At  -)  „V  .,  U 
in  the  evening,  tho  King's  pianist  came  for  me   and     ,.  a  cnririer  .     a^ 
hour  we  were  at  the  foot  of  tho  grand  staircase  of  the  pal^ce^  ' 


60 


mOGRAnilCAL  SKETCH. 


M  tho  to,  „f  ,1...  st.in.as..,  two  s..ntiu...s  Hto,,,-    ^X.^T     s^t 

iu^r  thi'iiisrlv.'s,  .■111  attiaUHi  i.v  (     •'■,.,.,.,.,,,, ^    .yliit.'  silk  stoikiiiK's, 

Mm.  cloth  ..mlToiaeiva  with   gold,  KiU'i'    l)ltw  lii  s,  \\  im.       .       ,        •   ,   ^^^ 

s,i»aiT-shi.iM.,l  apiu-tnu.ut,  at  on,-  m.I.    ..t  '{  ^   ''   '\,.,,  t„  ,,,,.ivo  us. 

,,„t'.     it  is  a  fort, HI.,  for  Si-am   to    l'"^^ p^,,--^  j ^  "   liTa  ,U' au,l  p-a.M'ful 

...utation  is  '-;:>- --'-;.::i/7i;,;>  si.  "vial,.  a..,  h..tv..ry 
youii«uianwasth..Kuij;.  ^/  7' "'  '  .,!!^,,,,,.  .^„.i  salut.'d  mo  with  the 
(liK'iiitiu.l  aii.l  .-ourb.ous,  l•o^o  at  my  ^"\  ""•  7.  ,  .  ^,,.  ,.,,,.,1^  s,„o,l  the 
u/^aost  allahility.      Tho  ^^ -;;'--«;;;■       S'kU  wiU.  tru.  .MicaLy 

approach.  Tlio  King  cam.'  "'■'■'r  "'"  f  "'\^'^ '\'  '~  j  ,,,„,  d,.,„.„  isa- 
U  he  (iuccu  :••  The  tapestry  over  *  '^;. '>"."' ,\\f.,:"^,'t  ZlvL,  smile. 
bella  enterea.     She  receive.l  »»' -"J  "''^^lon  w  th  t  he  m  s  _    ra      ^^,^^  ^^^  ^ 

The  Queen   is  very  tall  ami   ^  <•';•    .^'\'^,.i'"''  a    er  a  mou'ieiit's  silence, 
chestnut  colour.  an,l  lips  nicl.ne.l    o    'i^h    "  ;,r  y  ,u  are  perfectly  rea.ly 
l,cr  Majesty  said  to  me  >"  ^P'^";;;  '-  ,„',,,;";«. -^    I  lirst  played  'my  duo 
to  play,  Monsieur,  I  shall  he  ha   py  to  'l-^'"^  .y""'        .        ■    V  \  ,,,..ira  i„,r 
f„r\wo  pianos,  assist.-d  by  the  ^^f^^^'^^^JlXS.^y'  chair.     The 
Majestv  rise,   leave  her  seat,   ""^^    'l'^*^'    '   ^^    ,Vtt     "      l)owaf;er  a  little 
Kins  >Cas  to  my  right    leaning  «'"  *''«  P'^     ;  ^   ,,^  ' Vx  laim  in  Spanish, 
farther  olV.      Several   times  I  ^;''''''\.      '\'^,*' '.^7.^  the  piece  was  over,  the 
..  Inever  heard  anything  so    «•;»'"';     ^%J^  ^,M   to  n.e  :   "Very 
King  came  an-l  complimented   me,  and   t"^  ;',',"  „,,      ^j,,,,  re.uieste.l 
g.,od,  Monsieur  (iottschalk,  that  was  -^J''^    ^.^^  .U     that 'you  in 
the  '  Hananier,'  one  of  niy  own  ->"n'-  I' '     ;  "' t'^,,  ,,  ,    the  King  ;  "  it  is 
r^^'Kir y  n^i;  "'  1  'iS^^  thJ  ^S;!'  .nd  the  Uueeu  and  her 


QU£E\  cmuST/SA. 


61 


An  otripor  afketl 
!>;  .mil-.'i-y  r^pl. ■li- 
ned a  liallii'iiliiT 
liciT  ri'i'i'ivcil  us, 
.voncli'il'ully  liiil- 

tilll,    lilK'-lodkillg 

I'lrciil.'ui',  wiinu- 
of  tlii'ir  (insH  nf 
,■  silk  st(irkin);s, 
;C(l  ill  till'  lic'lu'st 
alli'd  us  into  tlio 

0  iiuiiiiro  of  till) 
,.sty.  A  iiioiiii'iit 
livi'  or  six  gn-at 
ty,  awaiting    H*''' 

came  at  last  to  a 

1  door,  liiddi'ii  by 
was  to  rwcivo  ns. 
i-ivato  signal,     llo 

,t  wliicli  filled  tlio 
)i)d  lieltire  iiif,  and 
and  tone  of  voice  : 
a  man  of  your  tal- 
wliose  Nvidesiireiid 
lialili'  and  graiM'ful 
rtain  age,  Initvery 
Inted  mo  with  tlio 
er   eliair  stood  tlio 
,  with  truo  delicacy 
et,  all  alone,  hcfoio 
I  near  me  tliewholo 
lished,  or  courteous 
words  which   go  to 
iced    llcr  Majesty's 
sieiir  (iottschalk,  it 
icd,  and  Qrcen  Isa- 
iiost  gracious  smile, 
lilne  eyes,  hair  of  a 
a  moment's  silence, 

are  perfectly  ready 
first  played  my  duo 
e  jiiiiilc,  I  heard  her 
ind  my  chair.  The 
eeii  Dowager  a  little 
exclaim  in  Spanish, 

j)iec(!  was  over,  tlio 
said  to  me;  'Very 
The  King  reciuested 
reoU'  air,  that  you  in 
•lid  the  King;  "  it  is 
d  tlio  Uueeu  and  her 


mother  appeared  fo  he  charmed  with  it.  Tlie  King  asked  mo  for  nnnther 
ol  my  juoces.  1  j.layed  the  'Daiise  (Ksianiqii.','  which  i.nuliiced  as  llat- 
tering  an  cllect  as  its  predecessors.  The  Queen  came  to  nie,  and  aillre^sed 
luo  a  coiiipliiiient  conceived  in  the  most  givuious  teiiiis  ;  she  then  asked 
me  for  another  performance.  1  played  tlie  '  Moissonnense.'  The  Kin" 
said:  "That  is  good  music,  Monsiei-v  (iottschalk;  that  is  poetry  itself! 
It  will  not  bo  appreciated  in  ^pain  ;  the  only  pianists  we  admire  Ii.to 
are  th(jse  wlio  iierforni  acrobatic  teats  on  their  instrument." 

A  conversation  of  half  an  hour  followed,  when  the  (ineeii  said  soniethinK, 
that  1  did  not  hear,  to  the  King.  He  tunii'd  to  me  and  t(j|d  me  that  her 
Majesty  insisted  on  hearing  tho  jiiece  I  liad  dedicated  to  her,  the  '  Ham- 
boula,'  .another  beautiful  old  Creole  air,  "  VVe  are  so  much  pleased  with 
it,"  said  tho  King,  "that  I  fre(|uentlv  eitlier  jilav  it  mvself,  or  have  it 
I.layeil  for  me."  I  begged  th.Mr  MaJesti.'S  to  have"  a  little  indulgence  for 
mo,  in  case  I  did  not  jile.-ise  them  so  well  in  this  as  in  o! her  pieces  ;  for  I 
liad  not  playeil  it  for  a  long  time.  "Say  yon  so!"  replied  the  King, 
laughing  ;  "  thi-n  yon  must  play  it  for  us,  tVir  I  wish  ,iow  to  see  in  what 
manner  you  will  he  able  to  play  badly.  '  1  jijaved  the  '  liamboula,'  and 
the  King  and  Uiieeii  ai)peare(l  to  be  nineh  astonished  at  it. 

Queen  Christina  walked  uji  and  down  the  room,  hnmming  the  air  ami 
exclaiming,  now  and  then,  "How  beautiful  1"  The  (iueeii  paid  me  an- 
other very  fiattering  coinpliinent,  and  the  King  chatt.ul  with  me  for  another 
halt  Innir.  Qneeii  Christina  said  to  him,  "Sir.  this  evening's  entertain- 
ment should  strengthen  your  taste  for  the  piano."  "All,  M  dame," 
replied  tho  King,  "  iny  piano  will  remain  closed  all  dav  to-i  ■  : '  w  ;' I 
shall  not  h.avo  the  courage  to  touch  it  for  some  timo  vet,  I  fear.  1  then 
.advanci'd  to  her  Majesty  and   returned  mv  thanks  fo'r  the  verv  llatterin" 

manner  in  which   I   h.ad   been   received.     "  It  is  I,  sir,"  said  the  Qii i" 

graciously,  "who  should  thank  you  for  tho  charming  suln',;  wo  have 
passed."  It  being  then  time  to  retire,  the  King  acconii)anied  us  to  tho 
door  of  the  saloon  .and  romaineil  there,  watching  our  departure,  until  wo 
had  passed  tho  third  or  fourth  saloon,  waving  his  hand  to  mo  and  smiling 
pleasantly.  This  is  considered  to  be  the  most  jKilito  coinpliini'iit  the  King 
can  jiay  to  a  visitor;  but  it  is  rather  troublesome,  as  it  obliges  one  to 
retire  backwards. 

Yesterday  evening  I  wont  to  tho  Queen  Dowager's  ball.  I  had  tho 
honour  of  dancing  several  polkas  before  her  Majesty  with  tho  vonng  and 
charming  Countess  of  Casa  Valencia,  tho  daught.^r  of  one  of  her  Majesty's 
grooms  of  tho  Cliambor.  Tho  Queen  and  the  Que(«n  Dowager  were  seated 
on  adivan  or  throno ;  tho  King  occupied  ,an  aiin-chair  to  thoQin-.'n's  left  ; 
Ins  father,  sisters,  and  brother  wore  seated  to  the  right  of  tho  tiiioon 
Dowager.  Around  this  royal  group  was  an  immense  circle  of  lords  and 
ladies  of  tho  (^oiirt,  all  standing.  Tho  King  rose  and  walked  slowh 
around  tho  groat  saloon,  .addressing  a  smile  to  one,  a  kind  remark  to  an- 
other. On  porcoivingme,  ho  advanced  immediately  towards  mo,  and  after 
making  a  few  courteous  inquiries  as  to  my  healtli  after  tho  fatigues  of  the 
■previous  night,  repeated  the  compliments"  ho  was  then  pleased  to  .address 
me.  All  eyes  were  lixeil  ujion  me,  aii.l  my  triumph— a  legitimate  one- 
over  those  who  had  before  treated  me  so  coldly,  was  complete. 

Tho  Queen  Dow.agor's  chief  jihysicMan  came  up  to  me,  and  saiil  :   "  Per- 
mit mo,  sir,  to  be  .among  the  first  to  felicitate!  yon  upon  your  signal  success 
last  evening.     Her  M.ajesty,  tho  Queen   Dowager,  told  mo  that  vou  had 
ploas.Hl  her  infinitely,  and  that  she  ])referrod  yonr  stvl.j  of  plaving  ov(ni    ' 
to  that  of  Liszt,  the  pianist  who  had  'aeretoforo  been  her  greatest  favourite." 

6 


62 


niOGRAPIIICAL  SKETCH. 


After  Ills  roooption  bv  tlio  (iiioon,who  Bubsoqncatly  con- 
fcriT.1  unoii  liiiu  the  onk-r  ol'  IwiIk'Hii  the  Ciitholic,  the 
Intiititiis,  sistors  to  \\w  K'uuj^,  also  It-toa  him;  thoy  con- 
tinually jvcrivo.l  him  in  tlu'lr  aj.artmonts,  and  the  wholo 
CcMirt  followed  the  fashion  which  royalty  had  set,  so  tluit 
he  waH  in  trnth  the  '  lion'  of  the  nobility  of  Spam. 

Hitherto  the  Conrt  luul  monopolized  him,  bnt  tiie  peojjlo 
of  Madrid  now  demanded  to  hear  him.  Accord niirly,  bo 
irave  three  concerts  at  the  Tcatro  del  Circe,  winch  were 
attended  by  vast  crowds,  whose  enthnsiasm,  bravos,  ami 
plaudits  proclaimed  him  the  first  pnunst  ot  the  atre.  At 
the  first  of  these  concerts  six  of  his  pieces  were  encored; 
lie  was  called  before  the  audience  Beventeen  tunes,  and  the 
last  time  a  crown  of  gold  was  thrown  to  him.  ,  ,,  ,, 

After  remaining  some  time  at  >[adrid  he  visited  \  alU- 
dolid,  the  first  city  of  Old  Castillo.  11  is  reception  there  is 
thus  described  by  Mr.  Mario  Eseiulior  in  'La  France  Mum- 
cale,'  of  Paris,  of  February  1,  lBo-2. 

GOTTSCIIALK  AT  VALLADOLID. 

Aftor  Ins  triumph  at  Maarid,  Oott.chalk  IjaH  g.v„e  ''^VfJ'^!:;;,!;;;::;;'^:;; 
tal  of  OM  Castillo.    Uar,lly  had  h-  arnve.l  than  the  ""f'  " j'^'^,'     .  ^^  \\l 
was  mi..,l  with  tlie  nu.st  ,UstinKUish..l  aiuatours  of  tl..  ;'    y- ,  .    ^^  ^f"  \'^'  ,f 
of  Valhuloli.l,  tli.  M..nt,»-nior  of  Spain,  s.nt  t..  Inn.  V'  '      t      V.  lerno 
thoir  co„.raa;.s  to  felicitate  and  olVer  their  services  to  InM.  K     ;       '•;_ 

L-eneral  of  OUl  Castille  went  hin.self  to  pay  hnn  a  visit  ""'^1  l''V  J   ':  .  .  ,"3 
nilieent  e.,uipa,'e  at  his  disposal.    Two  .lays  alter  his  arm    1  ^       "J^"'  ;^^^^^^,^j 
of  the  city  fiave  hiiu  a  serenade,  and  the  jjovernor  ""  f'  \      !  ^^^  ,^  " 
dinner    at  which  all  the  authorities  were  present.     1  he  huMuiKi  o    i  1 . 
ill"  It;  was     n'sent.     H.  H.  H.  did  him  the  honour  of  sending  tor  des  e 
a  c^^ki^ail'l  l.y  her  royal  haii.ls.  J''"' "-^ ''"^  ^^  ::t.:H: ^  n' 
the  i.ilice  of  tin.  Inf.mta,  sister  of  the  KiliR,  who  wished    o  le.ir  inui,  ni  i 
i£ru  :!m-hhn  the  liveliest  felicitations,     '^'f -''i'^;  jl'.^rtii  Z 
what  to  attribute  th..se  marks  of  /.eal  and  respect    o,  of  « In         -      ;'^  t'  « 
object,  when  he  learned,  some  one  writes  us,  that  ^  '    '^       ^   *•  ,    '  ,  '„t^.  , 
beila  had  written  to  the  authorities  o   all  Castille  that  f '        ^    ,  \     .'^^j;;' 
his  journey  the  celebrated  pianist  should  be  ':''^'«;^^''\Vv  .1     U-U  1    a.  d 
dist  nctioi,:     He  has  given  three  concerts  in  six  .ays  ^^  ^  •     '  '  '     'j       ', 
th..  cr..wd  has  not  eease.l  to  follow  him.     The    h.nl  t..ok  l';^^  "^^      ^,  \'  ; 

atre,  an.l  his  triumph  was  signali.e.l  hy  '"'^V'''^^'^^r^'"r,.':  ^ -^  ,^  'Ve  s^  1,  ■  ' 
cau  be  imaglncl.  His  •  Carnaval  de  V.-nise  and  his  la  ta-M.  J-  •  .-.b  m 
have  particularly  ..xcited  transports  ot  enthusiasm.  1 1'"'^"  ;  ;"  ./'..VA-e 
8un.d  l.v  th..se  who  have  heanl  them,  two  .lazzlniK  compoMthms  o  Yrve 
an  rS^mdi  y.  (f..ttschalk  was  to  leave  iimnediately  '»'•  l^'"'^--;  ''J;  '  ^, 
w  s  exmc  ed  as  at  Valladolid.  The  second  of  March  he  wdl  '•'';''" 
Zlrhl^  and  ..n  the  40.  1.^  is  to  be  present  at  a  Court  ball,  lor  >^ huh  the 
Uueen  has  seut  him  a  diruot  invitation. 


cqncatly  con- 
Ciitholic-,  tho 
ni;  tlioy  con- 
11(1  the  wiiolo 
(I  set,  HO  that 
imiii. 

)Ut  the  yieoplo 
'conlitiirly,  he 
',  wh'uii  were 
I,  hnivoH,  and 
the  age.  At 
iViTC  eiK'ored ; 
times,  and  tho 
I. 

visited  Valla- 
ei>ti(>!i  there  is 
I  France  Musi- 


aU.Kloliil,  thfi'api- 

1  wlRTl^lH'lllifl'ltt'l' 

:ity.     Tln'Stmli'lits 
('imtiitioii  of  six  i>f 
1.1.     Till-  frovfiiior- 
iliid  1>1:UM'  his  iimt;- 
rival  till'  imisii'iiuis 
Icri'd   liiin  !i  graiicl 
lio  hiisbaiul  of  tin) 
sfiiiliii','  for  (li'SSiTt 
:i(!  w.'is  n-i'civi'd  at 
■d  to  hear  liiiii,  and 
lialk  ilid  not  know 
if  which  ho  was  tlio 
xci!llent  Uucfii  Isa- 
shi'  dfsiri'd  that  on 
1  with  till'  jiifatf.st 
i  at  VaUadolid,  and 
Ilk  lih-ici'  at  tlie  the- 
ihovfaiiytlunt:  tliat 
tiisiaon  ■.liTiisahMu* 
'hesi'  arc,  wo  arc  as- 
mpositioiis  of  verve 
for  Uurt;os,wlicrc  ho 
h  he  will  return  to 
ball,  for  which  th« 


SISGULA      hOXOUR. 


63 


ve^^  singiilar  and  .listui.ruislied  h,„io„r  to  he  o»  er      t?,  .,n 
artist  aii.l  eonii.o.Kor.     I^he  Coimt  ,1,.  i>;,., /•    Vi  I 

|w  (■hami.er  ,„'  ji.  M.  i^ahH^;  ;;;!a'^„ V  ^i  ^  ■  :,';',;!,i' 

Kc.ym.ait,  wrolo  hiiii  tiju  li>ll„ivi,iLr  litlor—  J^'"iil»w 

Mr.  OuTTHCIIALK  : 

as  a  mark  of  „.y  j,  .,'    st'c  i     ai,"  h      •''""  •■'■■'.^- ''""'"•"  "four  cavalry 

.1.1..,:.'..  ^i2^:^':,'z:^sz::;r:;':^-^,^f;r'^7'^'"- 

fri  ■••dsjji;  "  "v°n'   lo  \(iii  wiij,  (III.  „,||..j  s,,„.,,ro 

Vour  very  lumihlc  and 

Very  ohedjent  servant. 

letr!:';  '"^'''^^  "^^^""^  *''''  ft>lIowing  note  at  the  loot  of  tho 
^nu'c'oi;i!i'Tf/'%^'''''"''''''  "r"""'""  "^  »''«  Chamber  of  H.  M.  Isabella. 

A  short  time  after,  wliilo  prepari-irr  to  visit  Bnr-os,  lio 
met  witli  an  adventure  whieh  ohliir,..!  l.im  to  iK.stnom.  J.is 
\<^.viiir(".      Ihis  a,  venture,  as  related  hy  C;ottschalk  to  ],is 
annly,  was  as  lollows.     J.eaviii,<r  tho  Co.irt  in  one  of  tlie 
nnn.     '^''^'^^''^ ^"^^'^V^^v^}  hy  his  secretary,  he  heanl  his 
lanu  calie.,  and  stopiung  the  eoaeh  he  found  he  ],ad  heon 
al  e.l  hy  (he  pianist  of  the  Court,  who  eanie  running  ,„,. 
Oo  tse  ui Ik  <.pene<l  tho  eoaeli  (U,or,  wlien  the  luanist,s;.in- 
th.  t  Go    sehalk  innne.liately  fainted,  and  was  taken  to  Jus 
Hotel.     Ui,  examination  it  was  f)und  that  his  little  tiu-^., 


was  very  much  injured,  and  the  suri^eons  leared  they  would 
an-e  to  am  pulsate  it.  To  this  Gottsc-halk  would  not  eon- 
Hiit,  as  It  would  i.revent  him  from  ever  j^lavin-^  ao'tij,,  Ife 
was  lunety-oue  days  ii,  ixroveriuir.  What  wa.C  very  re- 
markable instead  of  injuring,  it  absolutely  henelitcd  his 
hnger    which  became  na.ro  powerful   than  over,  an«l  eii- 

i .  fo,        'n  *  ''"''i-"'^'''  ^•^'r^"i'\J'''««'K^'^  ^vith  mo,v  Cclat  than 
iJttoi e.     1  ho  motive  assigned  for  this  groat  outrai^e  was  the 


64 


liincnAPiiK^L  sKKTni. 


,„,•„,.    |„ys,.„t,,     t..    II.    I    .     ,'•',,„.,,   „„.,„•„„,,  IV,- 
r   fl...    U  imf     who    S  loWl'tl    llllll    III*     fiii.i>»         • 

t;r;';'',;i:.:'':i  ■ii'-i.-^  '--"«"" 

,,, ;;,  ,""'n ,  a;  . ':l.;  Ar.is.i.,m'  ^i.s.mii-i  I;-'-  '■■7,™  .;^- 

til  ;••„,.'  ..„  bin,  tl,.>  tillo  „r  l...nun,r.v  ."""'1;>'  :     ",-';, 
toiin-ii  111,-  (.(.iici'i't  fivi'ii  at  tlio   UMiK) 

luorniiig  uftiT  t  he  li  I'st  i,cTlbnuai»cc. 


t.   llll'll     null    «i'lii>"i    ■• —    •-  •  ,.        , 

As   tllO   l.lSt  liotl'!*"'    ll"'     Ml  t,l    111    .   .".'r,         _         . 


■;„,,., ,,i...i»«.   A.  .1..  1.... .;;;-;;; '^^i'^Z^.S^  rii ., ..» 

13  Juin,  IbO'i." 

A,  ho  Uft.  .1.0  .l,c»tro,  «/rn,v,l  acoo,n,»..|o.l  1,;,n  to  1.H 


until  tilico  o'ol<.,;k  ill  the  uioiliiug 


T 


THE  swoiti)  t.-r  }f'>\T/:s. 


(!.') 


o(Ti[.siO(l.niul 
liiilk  for  I'vcr 

ilu-  li(iiii>ur  of 

..-.'pllil,    sistiT 

[itti'iitioii,  iVi'- 
)U'.     Uiif  (lay 

i,lly   |HVSt't\tfll 

Alter  lif  l>:;'l 
eiiti'd  him  ii» 
itfil  hnii  two 
l.y  lirilliiiiits. 
.U'\viis  that  it 

■  ITIllH'St  of  tllO 

I  his  rt'tnrii  l>y 
iiIkt.     His  ro- 

at  tlic  'l't''atro 
first    time  '  Fa* 

an<l  wliifli  lio 
ivci'ivfil.  'I'lic 
.f  Matlri'l,  the 


iiui  l>v  tli<>  c'liiiiont 
til,'  t.'illi  of  tin'  city 
riiil  of  liis  niilfs-do- 

tlirougli  till!  riwiin, 
.  \vli(  re  (iottsclialk 
(>,  (tciimiiiiUiii'il  liy 

tliiit  all  till'  i.fopln 
,,,11, .(I  ti>  ri'iH'.it  till) 
ilili'  to  ri'slr.iin  liis 
1  till'  rliinax  of  tin; 
ra;;ossi>  dii'il  away, 
,.il  with  ril)l">i>'<.  "II 
rill,  ii  sou  contort  du 


niod  liim  to  \\\ri 
iriiiients,  that  of 
,hhI  heiK'atli  hi^^ 
a;*  coiniic'lli-'il  to 
scene  eoutiDned 


Tlii'iidniinifioii  which  he  iii.<|,ii'(  il  aiiioiintt  <!  iilnio-t  t.. 

faiialii'i<lll.        AfltT  till'  SCiM.li.l   rolird't    li,'   lirii\ii|    I';, ,111    t|„. 

•  •(•Irliialcd   'I'onvadoiMl'iill-liolit.T),  |)<.ii  ,ln,-,'  K.'iIi.ikIm.  tin, 
follow  iiio'  Ifiici'  acioiii[iaiiied  l»y  a  iiiau'iiitin  nt  -.wurd  :  - 

Mv  lii'vu  M.  (ioTTsi  iiM.K  :    I  .■stiTiii  viiy  hiylilv  111,'  invilation  v,,ii  r^oiit 

'""  l"i-V"iii-i I'lt.      Il  alVof,|,.,|  iii,.,.,ii  ,,|,|,.,itmiitv  to  lii'.'iraii  ai'tiHl    i.io. 

claiiiM'il  liy  all   Ihr   iiitrllly.'iit   aiiiali'iirs  of  tl,,.  two  «oi!  I.s,  as  on,,  of  tlio 
v,.|y  }•>■>{  |,iaiilst,  ol  tl„.  litiio.      Wi>liiii;;  to  pivsiiit  y,,ii  a  la^liii-  >,„iv,i,ir 

ot  my  a,liiiirali.,ii,  1  juay  y,,u   t,>a,',  ,|>t  oi f  llo,'.«,,r,|s  «ii|",   m  1,1,1,  | 

liavr  inairitaiii,,,!  tli,.  Spaiii-li  Toi,„.  In  tli..  liiul,  nii,l  ^'|,,iioi,H  i„,Mti.,n  to 
wliMh  It  was  r,ij>,.,|   l,y  tl„.  ,„,i,.li   n-ivlt,..l   Kiari,is,,.  .M,,iit,.s  |i„im  wli,,iii 

tins  su„i-<l  ,l,'s,vn,I.Mlt,.iii,'.      Iii,..\,liaiii,'i'l  ask,  as  ,i  |,i f  of  v,„ii' . •*!,■,. i,i 

an  aiito^rripli  Ir your   lian,l,  wliMi  I  shall   r,-anl   us  ,,ii,.of  tl„.   st 

|,iv,i,,i,ssonv..niisofniy  lif,..  .|„^,,  i!,;„„.v„„. 

At  the  close  of  till'  second  concert,  he  wax  airaiii  escMpted 
to  liis  hotel,  and  the  _vnmio-,.i-  inciiiliers  of  thc"iiiost  dlMin- 
,i;-iiished  faniiliesof  .Nladriij  yave  him  a  iiTaiid  haiHiiiet  a^ 
a  mark  of  their  ailiiiiration  and  <'steeiii. 

Afti-r  ieaviiiiT  .Madrid  he  visitc(|  other  <'itics  <,f  S|,aiii. 
At  Cordova,  the  archliisho|n;ave  him  a  splciKlid  diiiiiiraini 
l»resciit.d  him  with  a  copy  of  his  •  Pastoral  I'oenis.'  'I'he 
canons  inyiu.d  him  to  inspecf  the  treasures  of  the  Secret 
Liltrary  of  the  Cathedral  ;  and  lie  was  invited  to  one  of  the 
nieetiiio-sof  th,,  authorities  of  the  citv,  to  lu'  ofliciallv  inv- 
seiitcd  with  their  coiioratiilations. 

At  no  time  was  (Jottschalk  ever  carried  awav  hv  the 
trihiites  awanled  him.  hut  always  received  them  u  ith  that 
modest  simi-licily  which  so  uivatlv  characterized  him. 
Iheirreater  part  of  the  money  which  he  made  he  distri- 
hiited  for  eharitahle  |iiir|ioses.'  In  Madrid,  he  o-ave  1.'),(MI(I 
reals  towards  ihe  constriictioii  of  a  ]io>|,itiil. 

At  ,^an  laicar,  lie  met  the  Dnke  dc  .Moiit|iensicr.  A 
warm  friendshiii  sprnnt;  np  hetweeii  them.  IJcfoiv  his  de- 
parture lie  was  invited  tooneof  the  Duke's  private  siijipers, 
where  eticjUette  was  laid  aside  for  cordial  and  familiar  en- 
joyment. The  Dnke  and  Onchess  made  him  maoniticcnt 
presi'iits. 

Owiiiir  to  the  accident  h"  met  with,  his  dei.artnre  for 
Aineriea  was  (U'layed  heyonvl  the  ]ieriod  aii'reed  upon  with 
his  father,  who  was  anxiously  awaitino-  his  coniino-.  He, 
therefore,  Avas  I'hliged  to  leave  Spain,  vvhieh   he  d'iil    verv' 

a* 


uo 


II  lot;  II A I  lllVA  L  SKE  nil. 


ivlnrtnntlv,  for  Tuns  ii.  onU-v  to  h.v  hU  inot Wr  .m-l  /ist..i>| 

;;;::l';;',;';;;,:;'J,i  ■;,; '  r,;,.l'i  li.' ■  unn^,,,  .a  naw,  ,■„>■  n^w 


Yolk. 


(MlAlTKll  Vlll. 

On  n.o  KHli  ..!■  .la.nn.rv,  1h:.:'.,  ()..ttsrl,alk  urrivo<l  i.. 
NW  York,  wlHT.  h.  foun.l  his  fatl.;;.'  aNvaun.t;  lum. 
SI  ,u-tlv  an.;  In.  amval  Nl^  nanuun  ..a  Iva  u,,,m  uuu  :^^^^^^ 
wi,lH.A  to  n.ak.  an  arnm-nucMt   with  Imn    .-    a    ..... 

n  th.o,...l.  tl...  r,ut...l  States,  HMuilar  (..  f  at  u  "-1'  ''^ 
,  a.U.  with  .l.-n,.y  l/.n.l.    rntortunat..lv  h.s  tath.-r 

;:     al;v..li.rih..wn.an,an.ltl.oM,l.tUYU.l.l|-^^^^^^ 

,■,,,..  his  s<.n"s  .li-nitv  t.>  a.'.vpt  his  ..tier;  aial  at.,    i  •i.u.ui- 

;'    short  timciu  New  Y..rk,  th..-  !.■  t  t..r  N.'W  (..■...,. 

llis  lirst  oon.rrt  in  New  Y..rk  t..ok  p la.x.  ';';-''; 

num.  •itt'i.'hr.l  t..  Xihlo's  Thi'at.v,  on  th.'  Uth  ..I  K'hn.aiN, 

S  T       In.  was  ,.n.v.U..l   I.y  the  tashi.>n=,hU.  s.-^i.t^ 

,rX  w  Yo.-k,  who  nmnill-stcl  the  greatest  .leh.h    a     j- 

j,,,,'..rn.an.'o,  nn.l  pie.v  aft..'  i-.e..'  was  .^^';;;'';  '    \'  ';/  ^,^ 

wMi-inest  ai.plauso.    Nos.unier  was  the  eon.vrt  oNei  than  lie 

l^^^X^dio^y.  an..the.-.     Tla'  s.eon.l  t.>ok  ^hwe  six 

aays^al>...-u.u-.Kin  the  theatre  itsolt;  wlneh  was  er..N^.le.l 

to  (tvertlowiiiL!;.  ,  .         ,.     ,    i  ..t-  i'i,',l.,ili>l. 

On  their  way  to  New  Orleans  they  st.-pin  1  J   '•      * 

i.hiM  wlR.re(Jotts.'halkirave  his  first  e.meert  m  that  .  itN . 
\  J  iu  V  hv  ns  the  .liary  of  M.".  .Tohn.B..nvier  IVters.-..,  a 
voun.  amateur  a.ul  e....,.,.. ,  '':/ '-  I'^'rwhl  h  i^  hl^ 
Vi.tli.i  s„l.sc..,.iently  to  that  t,  -.-ihle  '^{r^r.'    f  o    V?o   .f 

,,l,,i„„,  ;,f  „K..r,.'ine--ei.k.,.^.v.    ^^'r   h    l?..l K.., 
A     reh  1    1«."^;'>,  lu"  writ.'s  tliat  he    vent  to  Ootts.;halk  >     -n- 
;:;-t  at  Ihe   Musical  Fund  Hall  on  the  ovoning  ot  that 
tlay :— 


A7;ir  oA'/./;.i.vA 


m 


T  and  histrir. 
'  rc'iimiiK'il  ill 

(■*•  li_V  11  ^lUllll 
•(.IIiI'kT,  1>|')-, 

viv,  for  New 


Ik  iirrivt'd   ii. 
waiiiiiii   liiiii. 

I|i(l||    llllM,  illlll 

for  ii   tmisical 
hat  whicli  111' 
Ills  tiithrr  liad 
nil)    lif    li»ikt'il 
;()illil  (liTojiilto 
1  afiir  ri'iiiain- 
Ni'W  Orleans, 
•c  at   till'  liall- 
li  dl'  Ki'hruary, 
lonaltlo  soc'u'ty 
(Iclisi'lit  at   livs 
.rtfil   with  tliu 
rt  oviT  than  ho 
toiik  |ila<'o  six 
h  was  iTdwded 

L'd  at,  I'hiladid- 
■rt  in  that  city. 
vicr  IVtorson,  a 
lisc,  who  ffU  a 
c,  which  is  the 
cr  the  date  of 
l()ttschalk"s  con- 
Livoninii'  of  that 


Wlh'ii  wi'  n>A  tt)  III,,  li.ill,  \vi.  fniiii,!  tli.it  it  \vi\*  /I  Jam,  iiiit\\  ItlMtainU 
iiiu'  it  \wis  a  laiiiy  nielli.     At  cl^'lit  ..nliMk  th..  rm it  (•.riniiiiiii  .■(!, 

ii(itt»*iliiill<  liiiiih'lf  tlii'ii  Iliad.'  hi-i  a|i|M'araiii'i'  aiiiiii  tri'iiu'ii'loiis  ap- 
liluiiKi'.  ^  111'  Ik  vc'IV  .viimi;;  lciiikiii(;,  (|u,.s  nut  scriii  ici  lie  (iv.t  t\\  i'IiI.v-Hvk 
vi'ai'H  cif  a;.'!',  Iiaii<l..^niiii',  uml,  to  irnun  Hi,.  «  Imli.,  Is  m(i  easy  ami  iiiiat- 
I'Tti'd  ill  his  iiiamii'i'  that  ii  pcrhnii  niiijil  ii.it  (ail  to  Im>  |.|fii»i'..|  «iih  him 
M  a  iii/iil.  As  a  |il,iyi.|'  hi'  Mirpas.Hi.s  ..vni  .laill.  ami  his  ix.'riili.iii  is 
fistiiiiii.liii;,'.  Ill'  |il.'iys,  tiMi,  Willi  s.iiMiiih  last.'  ami  ix|)ri.ssii.ii  tjiat  any 
|)('rsoii  whn  has  any  liTliii;,'  cuiilil  imt  lu'l|)  luil  hi'  iilrasi'il. 

^  It  al^i|i('ars,  IVdim  ( iDftschalk's  noti's,  that  the  cniiccrts  iii 
N'l'W  ^  oi'k  did  not  pay  cxiiciiscs, 

Hii  tiii'ir  a.-'-iMil  ill  New  OrUans  liis  fcIlow-citizcns  re- 
ceived him  with      'I'li  arms,     it  seemi'd  to  him  like  retiirii- 
iiiii'  to  liis  liimily  and  liome.     |';\-ery  door  was  tliiown  opm 
to  him.      Ahidam  I'.,  the  cliarminu'   |iianist,  who  had    lurii 
aniojiu'  tlieearrn'st  tojirediet  what  he  would  he,  wlien.  onJv 
ti'ii  yi'iii's  of  iiii'e,  he  pjayed  at  one  of  her  di'liu'htl'iil  xiirees, 
was  amoiiii'  tlie  first  to  welcome  him,  and  open  her  .w/Zo//  to 
him.     His  old   nrofcssor,  Leti'llii'r,  was  ids  >hadow.     Tho 
l''i't'emasons  of  .New  ( )rleans  ^'a\•o  him  a  dinner,  at  whicji 
he  was  coiiii'i'atiilatcd  hy  an  address  in   poi'try,  written   for 
the  occasion.     Coiiccrt  sncceeded  concert  withoiit  interi'ii|i- 
tioii;  at  one  of  tlicm  three  hinidred    lioiii|iiets  were  tiirown 
to  him,  and,  to  his  c'l'cat   siir|irise,  almost   vvwy  one  jiad  a 
fiiiii'  attached  to  it.      His  sojoiu'n  in  his  nati\-e'city  was  all 
siinsliiiu',  hut,  notwithstimdint!;  his  y-reat  desire  to  remain 
tiiere,   he   felt    the  necessity  of  leavinu'.      He    then   uaM'  a 
tiiiywell  coiici'i-t,  and  it  was  at  this  concert  that  hi>  fellow- 
citizens,  with  that   ^eiu'rosity  and  delicacy  which  charac- 
terize them,  jiresenti'd  him  "wifli  a  s|ilen(Iid    n-,,|,l   nieilal, 
which    I'ontained    nine    hinnlrcd    dollars'    worih    of   i.',,j,|. 
<_iottschalk  lovi'd  this  medal  as  a  tJivoiirite  child  loves  the 
first  jewel  u'iven  him    hy  his  mother.      He  wrote  to  his 
mother  and  sisters  in  l'a"ris:    '•!  should  so  much  love  voii 
to  see  it,  hut  1  feel   myself  inci,|iahle  of  |iartiiiu-  with   it." 
'I'lie  medal  wasof  j  aire, u'old,  of  a  circular  form,  and  massive. 
It  had  upon  one  side  an  eU'irantly  executed  Ju'ad  and   hust 
I-;' (Jottschalk  eiicircleil  in  a  wreath  of  laurels,  and   upon 
the  reverse,  "A  L.  M.  (iuTTsciiAi.K,  ses  C'oinpatriotcs  de  la 
:>'i.;!velle  Orleans,  11  Mai,  hSo:',/' 

After  remainiiiii- a  short  time  in  Xcw  Orleans,  he  ci-ossed  • 
over  to  C."nl-a.     liua  he  met  with  a  warm  reception.      In- 


Qg  nioGRA nut  AL  Ski: 'r<  if. 

vito.l  to  tlio  i^alacr  l.v  tlio  Cai-taiii  (u'luTal.  hv  foviid  that 
l,i<  11.1, u'  had  iMH..r.lc".l  liiiu.    Ai\vv  -ivin,ii-  srvrnil  roiHrrts 
he-  ivtunK.l  a-aiu  to  Xcw  York.    In  (.K-tohcr,  IS.,4  a  short 
tiuiu  iK'tbiv  u-iviiiir  a  cou.rrt  in  F.ostou,  he  iv.vived  a  M<'- 
jvnnaannonnrini^This  tatlicTS  -Wh       lie  rcsovo.    to  ^lav 
rather   than   .lisipi-ohit  the  i-nhhe;   hut   as   the   taet   had 
he<-onie  known,  a   -h.on.  was  east  „ver  the  andienee  who 
U-reatlv  svnn.athized  with  hinu  and  t.-r  the  most  part  kept 
^ih.nee,  ahhouol,.  as  it  was  afterward  said,  -  the  master- 
spirit slione  out  IVir  more  hri-htly  than  l)eh.re.       At  the 
elose  of  the  eoneert,  he  immediately  left   tor  Xew  Orleans. 
After  the  hurial  of  his  father,  an  exarumatum  ot  tlK  estate 
proved  it  to  he  insolvent,     lie  at  onee  resolved  to  pay  his 
father's  dehts,  and  his  earliest  earnin-s  were  devoted  to 
this  purpose,  whieh  was  in  time  aeeomplished.     A  more 
nohle  aet  of  tilial  devotion  is  seldom  .met  with. 

In  1S.>-)  he  puldished  'The  Last  lh.po,"Lo  C  han  du 
8oldat,'  '  La  ^larehc  de  Xuit,'  '  La  .lota  Arrau'onesa  /  deru- 
salem,'  '  Les  Souvenirs  d'Andalousie,'  '  La  ^  alse  1  oeti.pio, 

^  From  IS-),')  to  185G  he  iravc  no  less  than  eighty  eoneerts 
in  New  York,  the  last  of  whieh  was  as  hriUiant  as  tlie 

'nil  the  2d  of  Xovomher,  IS.-.O,  his  mother  was  sc^ized 
Avith  ap..plexv,  and  fell  dead.  This  was  a  terrihle  hh.w  t.> 
him,  for  he  i.lolized  his  mother,  and  was  never  tired  ot 
speakino-  „f  lier  heauty,  wit,  sxrace,  and  ae.'omplishments. 
(lottsehalk  alwir>-s  insisted,  when  hi  Paris,  that  his  mntlier 
should  attend  his  eoneert^  that  lie  might  have  the  heneht 
of  her  eritieisms,  whh'h  were  always  ,iust.  At  such  times 
he  would  make  his  hrothers  and  sisters  sit  in  the  tront 
row-  hut  the  mother  would  retire  into  some  ohseure  cor- 
ner as  she  could  never  listen  to  her  son's  p  aymg  without 
slK'ddino-  tears.  She  possessed  a.  wonderful  memory,  and 
had  heeii  tauu'lit  hy  her  uncle,  Count  Casimir  Moreau  de 
rislet.a  ii-ifted  and  most  h-arned  lawyer  ot  New  Orleans,  to 
recite  pieces  from  the  French  tragedians.  _ 

In  18:.d  he  au-aiii  returned  to  the  Antdles,  in  company 
Avith  A.lernia  Fatti.  then  only  14  years  of  a,<xe._  He  visited 
with  her  Havana,  Santiag.>  .le  Cuha,  Forto  Frine.pe,  I  or  o 
Rieo  etc.     lie  composed  '  Cohuuhiu,'  '  La  Marehe  bolen- 


'  fdi'iid  tluit 
ral  conci'ils, 
sr)4,  11  sluirt 
•ivrd  a  tt'U'- 
ilvoil  to  iiliiy 
ho  i'act  liiiil 
uru'iu-o.  wlio 

iSt   \<-AVt    kl'lit 

•  the  niastcr- 
•('."  At  tho 
s'l'W  Orleans, 
of  tlK  estate 
.'d  to  i>ay  his 
>  devoted  to 
'd.  A  more 
1. 

Le  Chant  dn 
mesa,'  '.leru- 
l>u  I'oetimie,' 

nhtv  eoiieerts 
illiaiit  as  the 

:'r  was  si'i/.ed 
■rihle  Mow  to 
lever  tired  of 
iiiii)lishiiK'nts. 
at  his  iiiother 
vc  tlie  beuetit 
At  such  times 
;  in  the  trout 
»  obscure  cor- 
\\\w^  without 
memory,  and 
ir  ^hireau  do 
L'W  Orleans,  to 

■s,  in  cnm]iany 
i>.  lie  visited 
'rinci|ie,  I'orto 
Marehe  iSoleu- 


<i/rr  To  //OSJ'JTALS. 


C>9 


nele,  '  Les  V;nx  Creoles,'  'La  Chute  .Ics  FeiiilK.s/ ■  La 
(.itanella,   'Ainnul   a  Sovilie,'  etc     JVlin-   the  neeessily 

.  res  ,  he  retuv.  to  a  friend's  j.lantation  at  Alatoui.a. 
lie  e  he  composed  'Lel'antonic  de  JJonhenr,"  I'uh.nia,' 
and 'J'astorella  e  Cavaiiliere.' 

Au-ainwe  find  him'ar  Havana,  where  he  was  idolized 
ilere  Jie  organized  a  great  festival,  in  winch  8(10  mu>i<ians 
pertonued  under  his  direction   his  heantiful  svnmhnnv  .,f 

J.a  .N.nt  des  Iropuiucs,'  whi.-h  ^^^,v.■  received  with  Vaii- 
turous  aiiplause.  ' 

While  here,  learning  that  Queen  Tsahella  l,a<l  iounded 
t-'ur  imspitals.  he  remitted  to  Spain  l.-),(IOO  waU  This 
gave  rve  to  the  lollowing  correspondi^nce,  of  which  we  -ivo 
ii  taiiislatioii. 

OOVEKXMKNT  OV  TlfF  Tlioviv,  k  OK  VaI.I..Mm,I.,i,. 

Mr  Mi.NisTF,,:  Tl,o  fl„.vali,.i-  L„„is  M.-ivan  (n,!ts.l,allv  ,!,■  \Uu<lO  a 
IMa.nst  c...,.  .,-,.t,.,l  i„  I.;u,„,„,  l.,vi„,^  ,va,l   i„  tl,.  •  .M„„i...,n. ,.  H.        ' 'I'.at 

l''^nul,Uou  ot  i,m,.  h„s,,i,Mls,  on.  „f  wUicl.  will  l,,.,,-  ,  ,',.  a  '.  .al  f 
t  -  nins  .s,.,-..,,,.  iMtanta,  a.ul  ,l,.sirin,t:  tos,.,..m,l  a  ,,roj,.,.,  as  prais.  v  ,•  -  s 
.■leyat,.,l,  has  i>la,-,.,l  at  th..  ,lisj,„Mti„n  of  ny  ...v.'-ni.nt  til, ■  su.aoni^^O 

h.,l\V^!v /I'T"  l"'"'"'-"""  '•'"■tlu.  arts  has  ,.v..,-sl,own  its-U'so  ,,,liu'!,t.,.,vL 
nas  (I,  i-n,.,    to  (hrorat.-  inaiiy  pio,„iii,.nt  artists  wlio  liav,-  tints  l„.,.ii  ahl,' 

M     •   t  11     '''','■  "'■'*  l;''''i':sts,  ,r  not  th..  first  to-,lav  in   VW.rnJ, 

M     .     tM.ha  k  lias   l„.s„l,.s,  an  ..l,.^at...l  l„.art  an,l  an  ..lii.ht.Mn.,!  rhari  v 
1,  s..,.s  «n,>t  h,.  p!an.s  at  this  tnn,.  at  th,.  .lispositi.m  of  th..  hospital    l.is 
alms  aiv  nii.n,.rons  an,l  c.nisi.h.rahl,..     I  h,.j.  th,.n  to  piopos,.  to  Vo  „•    .\.,  . 
.;n,..v   o  suhnut   tor  th,.a,,prol,ation  of  If,.,-  Mairstv/a  ,,.,.,.,.,.  w,:  1      a,  .s 
li'.u  (  h,.val„.r  ot  th,.  (h-,l,.r  of  Nohiliu- of  Charts  HI.  or  of  Saitt  Jul 
(.0,1  i,rot,.,.t  \onr  Kx,.,.Il,.n,..v  for  luii-th  of  years. 
Vai.i.auolu),  2IJ  April,  l>(i4. 

His  Kxo,.ll,Mi,.y  J.  DcKXA.  (iov,.rnor,  to  His  E.N-,^,.lI,.nfy 
th,.  Mmist-.r  ,if  i-tate,  Mar<iuis  de  MiLA|.i,,.iii.:,<. 

The  title  of  ^^d.tillero  (Chevalier)  of  the  roval  and  di.tin- 
piished  order  of  Charles  II  F.  wtis  bestowed  on  <  Jt.tt^chiilk 
by  (^tieen  Isabella,  and  a  dipl.^ma  of  the  said  institution 
and  title  beiirmo-  date  the  ninth  dav  of  S,.i,tember  1,S(J4 
w:ts  lorwarded  to  hii.i  in  Xew  V,.rk,  together  with  liu' 
order  set  with  diamonds. 

After  ail  id)sen.'e  ofnetirly  six  years,  he  received  tin  offer 
trom  .Max  Strakos.-h  to  mtike  a  tour  of  the  United  States 
which  he  acceiited,  and  once  more  he  is  found  in  Xew  York'' 


70 


BIOGRAPIUOA L  SKETCH. 


wliore  bis  first  coiieort  under  the  ejipii^omcut  \vns  givon 
(.11  tho  lltli  of  Febmury,  1802.  L'mlor  tbi^  eiigiiiiviiiuiU, 
bo  tnivLTSL'd  tbo  No.w  EiiiilaiiKl,  ISliddlc,  and  \\_estorn 
Btatcr*,  and  Canada;  from  tb(>  Atlantio  to  tbo  l/acitic,  and 
a<  far  rtoutli  as  N(.rfolk,  Viri^inia.  It  was  tlio  period  of  tlie 
civil  war,  and  be  could  not  ^'o  furtber  soutb.  lie  gave 
more  tban  1100  concerts  in  tluve  years.  At  Saratoga,  be 
sravo  a  concert  for  tbo  benetit  of  tbo  aoldier.s  and  duruig 
Lis  iirogress  very  many  for  tbo  poor.  ^.  ,     .    -.o^o 

Wbi'lo  in  Xew  York, after  bis  return  from  Cuba  nilShii. 
bis  brotber  Kdward,  tben  residing  in  I'aris,  was  taken  ill, 
and  appeared  to  bo  iroinir  rapidly  mto  a  declnio.  lie  was 
a  yonn'--  man  of  rcmarkai)le  u^enius,  not  only  for  music,  but 
for  drawing  and  lauiiniages;  bnt,  unfortunately,  of  no  appli- 
cation, and  of  so  retiring  a  disposition  tbat  be  was  never 
willin--,  wbcn  bo  assisted  b/us  brotber  at  public  concerts, 
tbat  bis  name  sbonld  appear.  His  sistei-s,  wbo  bad  re- 
moved from  Paris  to  London,  bearing  tbat  bcAvas  seriously 
ill,  sent   for  bim.     On  bis  arrival,  tliey  were  so  alarmed 


at    bis    appearance, 


tbat   tbev    immediatelv    wrote   Gott- 


scbalk  tbat  tbey  would  send  l^dward  to  bim.  Wbeii^  tbc 
vessel  in  wbicb  be  bad  taken  passage  readied  Xcw  ^  orK. 
be  was  unable  to  leave  Ids  bertb.  .  Gottscbalk,  Avbo  ba<l 
been  awaitinii'  bis  arrival,  bad  bim  taken  immediately  to 
bis  botcl,  called  in  tbe  Ijest  i.bysicians,  nnrscd  bim  witb  tbo 
gri'atest  tenderness,  Watcbed  over  bim  as  a  motber  Avould 
ber  sick  ebild,  and  left  notbing  undone  tbat  migbt  restore 
bis  bealtb.  As  soon  as  tbe  weatber  became  warm— be  bad 
arrived  in  February— bo  took  bim  to  tbe  seaside,  and  would 
liimself  carry  bim  to  and  from  tbebcacb.  At  nigbt  be  liad 
bis  bed  placed  alongside  of  bis  brotber's,  wbose  failmi:' 
breatb  did  not  permit  bim  to  speak  above  a  wbisper  and 
idacino-  bis  band  in  bis  wonld  tbus  pass  tbe  mgbt.  It,  bow- 
ever,  was  miavailing,  tbougb  bis  life  was  prolonged  until 
tbe  autumn.  For  tbree  days  before  bis  deatb,  Gottscbalk 
was  constantly  witb  bim,  and  on  tbe  2Ttb  of  September, 
1SG3,  be  died  in  bis  arms,  tbe  last  rites  ot  tlie  Catliolic 
Gburcb  baving  been  admhiistered  to  bim  by  Doctor  Cum- 
mins, of  yew  York.  .       n     a     ^^     k 

In  ISO,-),  (bittsebalk  left  San  Francisco  for  Sontb  Ameriea. 
lie  bad  long  wisbed  to  visit  it,  and  particularly  Kio  Janeiro. 


VISITS  SOUTH  AMERICA. 


71 


;  was  givon 
MigaiieiiR'Hi, 
ul  \\"estt'rn 
I'ai'itic,  and 
)C'i'i(«l  oi  tlie 
1.  lie  gave 
Saratoga,  lu- 
ami  (luring 

ul)a  in  18(12, 
•ad  taken  ill, 
lie.  He  was 
Y  music,  but 
,  ofno  appli- 
le  was  never 
ilie  concerts, 
vlio  had  re- 
vas  seriously 
!  so  alarmed 
wrote  Gott- 
Wlien  the 
I  Xew  Yori<, 
Ik,  who  had 
mediately  to 
him  with  the 
lother  would 
iiight  restori' 
[irm — he  had 
le,  and  would 
night  he  had 
•hose  tailing 
whis|icr.  and 
i-ht.  It,how- 
donsred  until 
1,  Goltseludk 
t'  September, 
the  Catholic 
Doctor  Cum- 

Lxth  America. 
•  Rio  Janeiro. 


But  Ills  mother  was  excecdino-h-  averse  to  if,  ns  A\o  had  i 
l.re>cntiinent  that  lie  would  dic'tlicre,  and  that  she  .jiould 
never  see  liim  again.  During  her  life,  he  acvd.'d  to  her 
request,  hilt  now  she  was  dead  he  east  aside  what  liethou<-ht 
only  a  superstitious  notion  of  Ids  mother,  an.I  determined 
to  mdnlge  his  long-clierislied  desire. 

He  reached  Lima,  and,  in  turn,  other  portions  of  SoiiHi 
.America;  everywhere  successful,  everywhere  fete.l,  everv- 
wlierc  lavishing  Ins  talents  and  inonev  for  the  poor  and 
distressed  Nbmtev.deoand  Thienos  Ayres  had  been  visited 
bv  he  cho  era.  He  gave  concerts  ibr  the  German,  the 
liench  and  the  Kngbsh  hospitals-for  the  orphans  from 
thecholera  and  for  the  purposes  of  public  edu,.Mt  ion.  Floral 
emwns  and  gol.l  me.lals  met  him  everywhere,  makii,.-  his 
lite  a  complete  ovation.  '"' 

On_  the  lOflj  of  May  18n0,  Gotfschalk  reached  IJi,. 
-laneiro  ()„  Ins  nrrival,  he  was  invited  to  the  pala.r.  and 
leceived  from  the  Kmporor  of  Brazil,  the  Icarncl  an.l  ac- 
eomphshed  ^^om  IVdro,  an.l  his  ,|ueen  an.l  lamilv  mark..,l 
attenti..ns.  On  the  .^)d  ..f  .Mine  he  was  tak..,,  ill,  for  tl,,. 
first  time,  but  perlornie.l  on  that  evenintr.  ( )n  ihe  5th  of 
August  he  was  so  ill  fV„m  an  atta.-k  of\ell..w  fever  that 
It  was  rum..iired  lie  was  .lying.  F..urteen  davs  after  he  had 
s.)  far  re.-ove]-e<l  as  to  he  able  to  make  short"'trij.s  info  tlie 
country  to  recu].erate.  ^ 

_Buring  his  convalescence  he  wrote  a  letter  to  one  of  his 
triends,  of  which  the  following  is  a  translation:— 


Rio  .Iankiko,  August,  18(59. 
It  is  . almost  a  pl.autom  that  writes  to  you.     I  havo  boon  very  dan.',.r. 


01 


;:i;:v::i"t/,;:r;i;r  ,^i;,r'' " -- "  ™""  "•.-.' '- 

Iliavoim.t  with  a  n.c..ption  hero  such  as  has  uovcv  h.vn  o(r,..v,l  to  nnv 
n  t,st  ,n  thjs  ,.,.unt,-.v.  Th,.  six-  cnuvrt.  ^vhu■U  I  hav.  al.va.i  .'  ',,  ^l^  . 
>  1  .•rowd..,!   to  su.h  a  ,h.,,reo  that  speculators  sol,l  h„x.s  at  tl.;  io  r  at  ^ 

<>n.uy  arrival  at  I!i.i-a  spl,.„,li.l  city.  ,vith  the  most  marvolh-uslv  l„.-,u- 

:;;;!'"  ";:!;x;'-iirs^;;'t!;:;™;,»-:-»;::;;;:-; -: 

couvmod,  M»„U„,s,  1„  ,],„  g,,,„  ,„„.,„l„„.|,uli  ,„,  „v„  ,„1„1„J!  ,1,;.  „„n' 


72 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 


Ili.'V  liai 


„„ !,;r,l;^lJ■;^^:n!;;;;:»f-:'>;"=.'p■"V'l■  't^^ 

"  ";„    ;      W.-  skin,.,..;.l  .iv.-i-  ...ail,'-  «ili,i"  1",  "i"'  '  »«'  '"'"^  ''■'  ','"   >     , 


hail  the  ilclit-ai-y  to 
At  all  "^>' 1"-'T:'" W,M,l'^v  ^'i^in^-thatl.isina^.o^asumvo.tl.yofuu.. 
r.'lniin  tiom  asking  in.'  In  I'l.iy,  >a.s  uy  tu.h  lu    i  .   .       ,,., 

(Etude).     Th.l'n..c..ssl.u,H.nal    .;,,■    ^'f     '  ^  !M  I  ^  '  ^     ,„s  askod  lor 
had  a  «ucoc.ss  of  tear.,  and;  1  .^'  "";•„'„,  „,  i  o-.ln..k  in  th. 


V  tcriiiinati'd  at  4  o'clnck  in  tlm 
mviT^illl,'    till'  wlinlo 


Mtios  Creol.is,' tor  four  hands.     Th 

tinu-   fanal.arly  wth  tli.u-  guests        ""/^'-f^f^^^ 

details  on  the  Mornu;ns,     ^^as  en.aUed        sa     Cv      m  ^,^.,^-,,„,„„i  , 

iust  read  Dixou-s  '  iNew  An.onea.      ^V    en  I  '^"  .;\,",„„„.  ^i,,.,  „,,  ,„y 

he  atmosphere  o:  the  drawing-room      nd  I  ^''       "^^ '  '  ^- '    ,.,.^.,,,  ,,„,„.  „n. 

in  ,he  evening  a  earriage  rolh'd  u,,  to  "'^ -j^-';'!,;.!^  ", .•"■'"  '''■'''^ 
Majesties  was  introduced  into  my  r;-"';  Jl«  "  '"  ,  '  :  t  al  in.mund,  when 
,ue\mlMd.alfoftheKnMHMorandK>nl.ress      Mtn 

iiig  mo  away  from  the  pomps  and  vanities  of  Ihi.  >vo.ld.      It  pi 


(//.-A'jy.iA'.i'  ASD  J-n/:j::.UASoys. 


13 


1,1   lUO  tliat    till' 

was  f'iiisi};iHMl 
ic  Kiiiliri'ss  anil 
i-  spdUi'  (if  tlii'ir 
oiis  with  which 
the   Kmiircrts,  1 
nail   lioiiiloii'  at 
H'siili'  hull,  say- 
id,  in  fact,  con- 
Uatcs,  spii'ltnal- 
s,  manners  ami 
lick  hy  till'  vcr- 
taimncnts.      lie 
stands  ])crfi'ctly 
.     Tin-  Kniiicror 
uiccrts.     1  hayo 
iccn  rcccivcil  in 
,'   Kniipii'ss,  who 
s  yuii  urn  aware, 
tc'df  twenty-two 
jlU'  never  fort;els 

(if  myself  at  his 
ilayed  at  (\uirt. 
I  the  delicacy  to 
unworthy  of  nil', 
ir  the  .soiVi'c.     The 
rsons  hi'sides  tho 
■s.     The  Kniperor 
nd  my  '  'I'reiiiolo' 
y  '  Miirte,'  which 
fmliress  aski'd  for 
I  4  ()■(  hick  ill  tho 
,ersin;j;  the  wholo 
iicr  to  have  soiiio 
miiletely  as  1  had 
vas  overheated  hy 
some  time  for  my 
Lay  fever  came  on. 
lu,  tho  iihysiciaiis 
i  of  my  condition, 
iiKliure  how  1  was. 
Toward  f^  o'clock 
[ainherlain  of  their 
lly  to  iiniuire  after 
ic'al  moment,  when 
Id  not  help  think- 
ickiiess  in  a  forei;.'n 
1  the  honest  cham- 
Id  lacii)t;s  ^'littere.l 
I  cloud  with  which 
ICC  of  death  hnrry- 
ihl.      It  was  philo- 


sophical and — distressinj:  in  i>roiinrtion.  ^„  friends,  savo  my  f.iithfnl  Fir- 
iiiiii  ;  no  family  :  no  hived  hand  l.i  clas|i  mine  and  to  make  ine  led  in  ono 
last  jiressiire  that  my  life  was  still  dear  In  snmc  one.  liiit  1  wax  alisiird 
and  dismal. 

The  pliilharinonic  societies  and  the  musical  cluhs  have  sent  nii' diplimias 
of  honni'ary  memlier>iiip.  Tiie  (iermans,  who,  in  all  my  travels  tlinm-li- 
out  .'^oiitli  America,  have  always  luriiied  the  incist  solid'  jiart  of  my  ainli- 
ences,  thanks  to  their  traditional  love  of  music,  have  imt  deserted  mo 
liere  either.  The  (ieriuan  t'hoi'al  Society,  althoiinh  (  xcliisively  compdsed 
of  amateurs,  saun  at  my  lirst  three  cinicerts.  These  (icrniaiis  "have  really 
the  monopoly  of  choral  musii;.  They  sanj;  tho  '  Hunter's  Chorus'  from 
'  I)er  Freischut/.'  at  my  second  ooiicert  with  a  hrio  aii.L  fire  that  electriliiMl 
the  audience.  Tliey  are  led  hy  an  excellent  musician,  who  is  moreover  ;l 
distiiiL'uished  and  modest  man— .Mr.  Tijike.  1  inel  him  some  twelve  years 
njro  at  yprinudeld. 

'I  lie  Freemasons  have  invited  nie  t>i  visit  tlieir  '  (Jrand  Orient.'  On 
the  (lay  apiiointed  for  the  reception,  a  (ieputatKin  caiiK,-  for  me,  and  I  was 
introduced  with  all  the  ceremony  of  sohnui  occasions.  Tho  discourse  of 
the  Cirand  Master  hreatlmd  a  fervent  lovi  for  American  institutions.  All 
the  Iodides  of  Rio  were  rejireseiited  hy  (leiuilations.  In  these  countries 
where  the  soul  is  as  ardent  as  the  clime,  everythiiijr  is  new  and  picturesiiuo 
to  the  stian>,'er  whoohserves.  Freemasonry  exists  hen?  in  all  the  fervour  of 
its  palmiest  days.  Kjo 'i  deputation  mado  its  entrance  with  its  banners. 
The  costumes  Wi'w.  sin^'ularly  intenstin;,'.  A  lew  lodges  have  iidopted  th« 
dress  (if  the  Franciscans,  bin  it  is  sky-blue:  others  wear  llowiii;^'  white 
draperies  :  others,  .a^ain,  .mi!  elad  in  loiif;  black  mantles  embroidered  with 
death's  heads,  iMid  with  ji  tar^e  hi  ck  hood,  the  ell'ect  of  which  is  jihan- 
tasiiiaj;oric  and  conducivi  to  niirlitmare. 

The  clergy  who  direct  the  Imperial  voile  e  of  Alcantar.i  have  also  -iveu 
me  a  )iubli(.'  receiition.  The  olid  impils  of  luo  college  tbrnied  on  a  liis'.;  as  I 
arrived.  Tho  profesMirs  and  ''ithers  came  to  receiv  nv  wit^  a  b;,nd  of 
music.  All  the  college  m  't  at  ;iie  hLiujui  i.  The  presid,.nt  addressed  me 
a  discourse  which  was  wed  coreeived  ft;. 1  well  delivered,  lie  sjioke,  aa 
usual,  of  the  'great  Hepi  blic,  for  tho  T'rltod  Slates,  ])articularlv  since 
the  war,  are  the  object  of  1;  •  wlhusias'ii  of  all  Eolith  America,  which  is 
])roU(l  of  tho  Monroe  doctr  ■  •uid  of  the  Americaiiism  to  which  it  has  given 
rise.  Moreover,  1  believe  it  all  these  Hoaih  Aiiierii  an  liepublics  und.T- 
stanil  that,  sooner  or  latei,  the  rni*(;d  States  will  be  the  arbitei' of  tii-ir 
fate.,  and  Brazil,  although  riilel  by  monarchical  ii'stitutions,  is,  in  point 
of  fact  he  most  liberal  of  all  these  countries,  and  the  most  disp 'sed  to 
avail         If  of  the  imiiiilse  wo  have   ri\c;i  to  civilization. 

Hn  Iter  tlit;  disci  urse  of  the  president  I  was  expected  to  repiv,  and 
this  \  •  the  hardest  thing  for  me.  'idu  know  how  aw  kward  1  am  for 
eveiyt'iing  outside  of  mm  ic.  Fortunitidy,  I  had  taken  a  glass  of  cham- 
pr.'-'iM  (which  I  exeurate),  and  i"  r'aitli,  1  tired  my  ships.  Ii  hose  Spanish 
for  ic  speech,  as  it  is  tlie  Language  which  has  most  analogy  with  I'ortn- 
gueso,  and  everyone  here  ni.  h-rslands  it.  It  ap|iears  I  did  not  aciiiiit 
myself  too  badly,  for  some  of  the  pajiers  went  such  lengths  as  to  .jieak  or 
MV  .loiiuence  I 

Some  of  the  papers  have  announced  that  I  perished  in  the  eartbcinake. 
1  beg  you  to  believe  that  this  is  not  so.  I  have  no  more  perished  i!  m  I 
have  been  married,  which  id  auolLer  piece  of  news  the  papers  circulate 
when  tliey  lack  "copy."  » 


I 


74 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 


„,„l  virgin  lorosts.     ''^^^--^'l  ^'y^";:  ';^,  Hudin  '  ^-11,1.;   to   c!..ar 

wu.m1s  ar.i  so  .U'liso  that  tho  "'l''^'  '[■^"^s-.  '"  =  f,.,,  „  tu,.,u  wlu^never 
th.Mu,  have  a.loi.t..a  tho  harbarou.  phm  o  J  "  '  b  ^ ^,.  ,^  ^,„„„,i„  ,,„ 
thoy  ^viHh  to  ....large  the..-  ,V''''l"'  ^^  ,/^,"  ^  i„  „  Kt  a.  The  elVeet  i. 
crowLed  with  lla,...s,  ixmun.ln.g  o.u      f  J '«    >  UH  _o  ^^^^^  ^^      ^^^ 


tUe;;^ila,.ce   ot  t^;;--:;-^  :,:-;,,;  jSti-.^^:  ^This,h..weve., 
clario,,et,a«uM.ot   a.la  ..,-     nn^^^^ 

did  i.ot  vrevo.t  their  attacRii.^  .  . .^^  naught  the  haniiome  sei- 

pho..y  i,.  a  l^^v  that  wouhl  have  dl.edarul^^^t^^^^^^^^        .  ^^^^^  ,^,  ^ 

*n.ce  of  M.  Ketis  hii.vselt.    I  u.a.  e     f  '^   l^/,    ",   ,\     ,,  ,11  h=.  ...ight,  a  llute 
the  satislaction  of  see.,,g  a  tromb  n    '^    '^'^^  ^^  ,^  „  ,„„  „,t,,  .ho  suc- 

^:^  •^l;;,l:!neJ\he:r';:;::r:  diligenrcides,  a..d  co...,leted  the  orche.tra 
of  the  grand  occasions  of  Valcuza. 

On  ScT.tcnilKn'  11  Gott.chalk  n.crain  returned  to  K;o,  and 
c^^^SZ  concerts,  unto.,g  othe..  those  on  tbe  j^h,  8^, 
S^ll  nth  of  October,  at  whuats,xeeni.=njvs^cn^^^ 
..ftcr  Avhich  he  beijan  his  work  tor  the  ^^'^Ji^''^'  ,^  "^  f 
'^^k'cnlean  labours  he  gave  three  ^^^-^^p^^^l 
Uth,  and  lBtlw>f  XoW,er     On   he  ^;^^;^^l,,^ 

IniSs'^T^l^-  i^ad^lU  bought  np  at  doul.le 
^t:;  ^rvoved  a  great  success.  <?'^  tlte  inonnng  o^  he 
or.th  the  iec-ond  concert  was  f '^^'^''•tised  to  t.  k  pU  e  tne 
loUowing  evenhtg,  at  the  usual  price.       ^  ^  ;^f^;^;^;^. 


LAST  COXCERT. 


76 


10  mouiitnliis  "f 
s  hail  made'  iqi 
iiLvrt,  Tlif  ilih- 
lysiciaii  kiiIimimI 
lol'ty  Miiiiiiitaiu!! 

fiCll!'!',    fill"  tllCS(! 

lossiblo   to   clfar 
tUi'iii  wlifiit'Vt'i- 
»ik  simiiuits  aro 
la.     Tilt;  flVcot  U 
t  will  not  stiip  at 
(3  I'azciuht  of  liilii 
,  some  inoraliziii}; 
i  imitiitiiMico,  and 
the  station.     As 
mi  the  top  of  iho 
ly  ailvent.     They 
("as  arranged  that 
ly  reci'ption.    Hut 
Let  having  escaped 
u  the   carriage   a 
;.    This,  however, 
itic  eccentric  syin- 
,  thi;  harmonic  sci- 
halcony,  and  hi-l 
1  h'sniiglit,  aiiuto 
<it  haste,  who  suc- 
leted  tliu  orchestra 


icd  to  Rio,  and 
m  the  5th,  8th, 
nos  ^VL'l•e  used ; 
;tival.  Duniig 
•ts,on  the  12th, 
1  of  Xovouiher 
id  rod   and  titty 

up  at  double 
moruino;  ot'  the 
)  talvL-  place  the 
le  seats  wore  all 
iiny  boxes  were 
joeanie  seriously 
•ame,  with  ir<iu 
\)\w.     After  the 

took  his  place 
to,'  his  tavourite 


ineco. 
seioiiH 


Tlanlly  liad  lie   roimiieiiced  \\licii  lu'  irll  uiiccn- 
iu  a  swodii.      fh'  was  at  oiuv  eomi'Ved  to  ids  Ikhhc, 


and  (•(.iiiphuiied  of  liivat  jiaiiis  in  In.s"  ahdonieii.  lie 
was^  innnedlately  attended  by  one  of  the  best  pliysieians 
of  IJio.  Oil  the  -liX  of  December,  at  his  re(iuest,  a  second 
physi('ian  was  called  in,  but  the  remedies  apiilied  ])roved 
miavailin.o;.  On  December  8th  be  was  induced  to  liavo 
hinisclf  couveyud  to  Tijuca,  a  plateau  sonic  two  or  tliree 
inilcs  from  liio.  ]Ie  sccnicd  to  improve.  Uu  llie  14th  an 
internal  abscess  broke,  which  afforded  some  relief;  but  he 
had  bec(»nic  so  weak  that,  on  the  morning  of  the  18th,  he 
yielded  up  his  life. 


CIL\rTKR  IX. 

GoTTsniALK  died  at  4  o'clock  on  the  morniii<r  of  the  18th 
of  Decendter,  18()!t,  and  tlie  fnllowiiisj  notice  of  liis  deatli 
ajipea  -ed  in  the  Jornal  da  Tarde  of  the  same  date. 

The  frreat  artist  is  dead  !  At  4  o'clock  this  morning,  after  prnlnngcd 
snflerings,  (iottsciialk  breathed  liis  last — victim  of  that  art  to  which  lie 
had  consrcrnted  tlio  choicest  years  of  his  life.  One  more  stone  for  the 
trmple  of  immortality,  one  more  star  to  shine  in  the  lirmameiit  of  tlie 
elect  of  (fdil.  Tlie  sepnlchro  may  conceal  his  body,  but  it  cannot  hide  his 
name,  whicli  not  evi'U  coming  ages  shall  have  the  ]Fower  to  obliterati;. 

Still  are  sounding  in  (uir  eais  the  echoing  harmonii's  of  tliar.  final  con- 
cert, last  song  of  the  dying  swan,  solciiMi  and  majestic  as  the  sound  of  his 
own  fame.  Son  of  that  giant  country  which  will  yet  dictate  laws  to  tho 
world,  (iottsciialk  was  a  universal  celebrity. 

Oeniuses  liavo  no  fatherland.  In  speaking  of  great  poets,  the  world 
IS  their  country,  and  idl  ages  claim  lliom.  lie  was  liorn  in  America,  and 
thougli  he  had  visited  many  lands,  fate  still  destined  that  on  Ann  rican 
soil  he  shoulil  liml  his  last  resting  place,  (lifted  with  rare  endowments  of 
inti'llect,  not  li*s  couspiee.ou.;  were  the  qualities  of  his  heart. 

Tin'  i.iuse  (if  (Jdttri'halk  was  ever  employ(!d  in  the  noblest  of  objects. 
To  alleviati'  sutler;;,.;  was  with  him  a  constant  ])ractice,  as  it  was  also  liis 
delight.  How  many  times  has  it  dried  tlm  tears  of  or]ihana  I  How  has 
it  tempered  the  grief  of  the  widow  !  Many  concerts  were  given  by  him 
in  aid  of  dill'eient  benevolent  societies,  and"  the  numerous  medals  which 
h<-  had  receiveil  were  the  most  convincing  iiroofs  of  his  charity  and  intel- 
ligence.    The  public  then  of  this  capital  shouhl  go  to-morrow  to  jiay  the 


:-CTi 


;m 


76 


r.for.llM'IlK  Af'  SKKTCir. 


llu;  tomb  that  is  to  inclos,'  tl.o  ■•.•n.a.ns  ol   a  «n  at  .u.m. 

'iV.  toll.win.   nn-ount  .-f   his  r.uu.n.l    .s    U.k.n   Inuu   the 
'Ki.tWrum'  .'1"  the  21st  lAvfinhiT:— 

T,„.  fun.nd  of  .iot.s..i,aiu  wa«  a  ........m  i;;'^;;;;-;;:;s^:;::;:,,.;;;;: 

Hi'l,. ration  an.l  anistu'  "'•"""""•V    ,         „    ,1.,.  ,.xi..>iis,-  ..t  tlu'  same  Sodc-ly 
th.'  .•ountry.    TIh-  l.o'ly  was  ..ml.al.n.Ml  .  t  t    .  '  M" 

^::;:s;:^:";;';:;:^r;;:i5ri^     ^ '-"^ 


fac,..*  of  all,  a„.l  many  .•v.s  w.-re  ''"'.'l'^",; '';,.,.,,  „f  p,.o,,lo  vas   cv,..! 
I„   tlio   o.UH.t..ry   of  San   .los.  ^  '  1'"  ''  ,,   "^i,     ,f  ;,,i  .^.I.kon  th.  last, 

S.s;:;:v::.s:;a.r;;-;u:;v:;^.i  ;u..^ 

:^[r.  Ihnry  ri'ealle,  in  a  letter  to  ti  iVieiul,  suys:— 

VI   i„  iJiri   111"  lio  foroif^npr  or  countryman, 

In  all   tl.o  years  I  havo  hv.-d  .     '^    '     ,,  '  ^^ ,,' ,  ^.u^t  of  tl,.  n.v...-to- 

th.  .l..atl>  of  no  n>an  vnAn.M  so  "'   !     ''    '\'^'     ,'  \',  n' .  thougl.  we  show..! 

,.,..x...ll,..l  artist,  <-''-,  ;''^'';;;;t'      ;;:',,.;  ,     ana  b.mo,u-,.,l  h..,v  : 

rr':::;n"u;::fc?r  sl^tu"  ^:;A'  a,.a,u  u.  omy  ta..  of  tuis  ..>■  o. 

4l.(i.lM.O  inhabitants  is  about  tins  '[''l^l'^'"";;'''.     :;,•,,,,,.,,,,,. ,as,  on.' c-f  wlnoh, 
coustautlv  worked  to  i)erf.*t  it. 

coniposjitious. 


lied   li'iirs  uiKiii 


ii()Vim1  to  liit> 
s  ii  iiu'iiilicr. 


ifcHtatinn.  Tin." 
till'  |ircM'iiius  ri'- 
,  an  (K't  of  ctiii- 
I  tlicSiH'icty  anil 
In'  saiiii'  Snciuly 

y,  the  Ixiily  lay 
lately  ilcctirati'il. 
,liiili  (iottsclialk 
It.  I'rcviiius  to 
till!  '  Moitt','  omi 
icat  artist.  Tim 
ili'il  anil  followed 
A  liand  of  nuisit; 
iness  marked  tlio 

peoiilo  vas  even 
spoken  till!  last, 
iif  onr  time.  I)r. 
La  I'anlo.  r^eiihor 
eters  of  tlie  gen<>- 
Btird  tiuii<l  tears. 


«vy9 : — 

f  or  countryman, 
lit  of  tlie  never-to- 
thougli  weshowinl 
il  hononred  here  ; 
alk  of  this  eity  of 

•ras,oneof  which, 
ud  iipou  which  ho 


o  v\:^it  Europe, 
ndi^li  inipr  •^- 
iuvrts  in  (ireat 
W  iinpublishc'd 


hKATIl  AXn  ITXEliAr.. 


T7 


A-i  soon  iis  the  fidiiiirs  of  his  dcntli  ivadu'd  Ills  sistcis  in 
Jiondon,  they  inunc(liati'l\Milflioiio-li  mai'ly  lirolxchdn'iii'ttMl, 
iMjido  iiiTiiniri'iiu'nts  to  ri'lnrn  to  their  native  euimtrv.  On' 
their  arrival  in  New  York,  where  tliey  found  llie'ir  imiIv 
snrvivino;  brother,  (iaston,  recently  retiirned  tVnni  Mexico, 
awaiiino;  them,  the  first  thoiio-hts  of  all  of  them  were 
tnrned  towards  havini,^  the  remains  of  tlieir  brother  iiroiiuht 
to  the  I'niied  States.  After  many  dilliciilties,  the  l.odv 
eventually  reached  Xew  York  in  "tlie  steamer  Merrima'c 
from  K'io,  after  havin-i-  been  detained  for  some  davs  at 
(|narantiiie.  On  hmdin-i;  it  was  eonveved  to  St.  Stephen's 
Church,  on  28tli  St.  On  the  3d  of  6ct(.ber,  isyu,  while 
the  heuvi'ns  were  draped  in  clouds  and  drowneil  in  tt'ars, 
a  vast  and  sym|.athetic  concourse  assend)U'd  in  St.  Stephen's 
rliurch,to  do  honour  to  Ins  sanctitied  dust,  and  witness  the 
imposinii'  ceremonies  of  the  Catholic  Church,  which  con- 
sio-iu'd  him  to  his  iinal  ri'stinu;  place. 

The  irnind  altar  was  (lrape<l  with  crajie.  The  collin, 
covered  with  a  lu'avy  black  pall,  and  profiisclv  strewn  with 
flowers  wrou,o-ht  into  various  apiirojiriatedeviirs,  was  placed 
upon  a  cataiiilque  at  the  foot  of  tlie  centre  aisle,  withstands 
of  candles  at  its  head  and  foot.  The  jiriests  all  wore  their 
inourning  vestments. 

The  music,  out  of  respect  for  tlie  most  eminent  jiianist 
aiKl^  comiioser  this  country  lias  produced,  was  Clieru- 
bini's  .iiraud  retpiiem  mass  iii  C.  minor.  Tin-  mass  was  fiiuio- 
from  the  ori^-inal  score  as  a  full  chorus  throuo'hout.  The 
].iece  sung  at  the  ott'ertory  of  the  mass  was'a  recent  ar- 
rangement for  the  occasion  by  his  sister,  Miss  Clara  (Jott- 
sch;i!k,  herself  an  eminent  pianist  and  composer,  from  'La 
Solitude'  and  'Last  Hope,'  two  of  the  gival  composer's 
most  popular  ])roductio!is.  As  an  interhuU',  MVnsee 
Poetiqne'  was  given  v\ith  great  effect. 

At  the  close  of  the  service,  'Alorte'  was  peribrmed  during 
the  removal  of  the  body.  '"" 

The^  metallic  ease  in  which  the  remains  were  brouo;ht 
froiu  South  America  was  inclosed  in  a  beautiful  mahoiranv 
cofKn,  upon  the  lid  of  which  Avas  a  plain  silver  plate  with 
the  inscriplioii: — 

7* 


78 


moaiiAPllICAL  SKETCU, 


LoflH  MOUKAI!  (ioTTClllALK, 

Dlwl  (•.•.■.•nilMT  is,  iMi'.i, 
Aj!i;il  40  yuartt. 

Tli(!  I'otly  Wiis  met  lit  tlio  flinrc'h  door  I'.y  lluit  ot  Kd- 
ward'rt, tiikeii  from  (."alvary  CciiK'tiTy.  Tlio  two  wire  tlifii 
c'onvcyi'd  to  (Ircciiwood/iind  (k'i)ositt'd  in  tlio  vault  [ire- 
jiari'd  tor  tliciii     s'ldi-  liy  side. 

A    iiiairiiitifciit    iiioiuniu'iit,   »  tli<'   finest  wliito 

iiiai'Mc,  was  I'lvctfd  to  liis  iiu'nio  >.  On  tlic  pi'iU'stal  ivsts 
tiK'  tijjiuro  of  an  iinLCi'l ;  in  one  liund  hIio  holds  a  book,  on 
whose  white  iiajjos  are  graven : — 

Marclio  do  Niiit, 

Dt'l'llilT  AllKllW, 

Mortt!  1  ! 


niiiiaiiicr, 
Last  lIoiH!, 
MunauifS  Eolions, 


In  tlio  oIluM-  hand  is  the  trunipt-t  of  fame. 

A\  lu'r  fc'C't  lies  a  marhle  lyre,  with  its  ehords  l)roken. 

The  pedestal  hears  the tbllowinj,  inscription  in  front:— 

III  loviiij,'  lui'niiiry  of 

liOriS  MoliKAl'  (ioi  rsciiAl.K, 

tho  Lolfbrati'd  Aineric-an  Tiaiiist 

mill  '.'miiposi'r. 

Bdi'ii  in  Ni'w  OrU^aiis,  Louisiana, 

Hth  May,  lS21t, 

Died  in  Ui<>  Janeiro,  Brazil, 

IH  Duo.  18()i», 

Aged  40  year.s. 

TTIs  nnlilc  licnrt  and  generosity  made  him  beloved  by  all,  and  to  liis  sis 
ters  and  liiotlicr,  l>v  wliom  tliis  iiionunient  is  erected,  in  all  love  and  grati- 
tude, he  over  was  the  best  and  most  loving  of  brjth.TS. 

On  the  hase  of  the  monument: —  ' 

Time  will  never  erase  the  remembrance  of  his  noble  deeds  and  genius. 

On  the  other  side: — 

Also  to  the  loving  memory  of  Edward  George  Oottschalk,  l>orn  in  New 
Orleans,  Louisiana,  14  Deeember,  18HII,  di.'d  in  New  V.n'k,  'Z^  S-i.teiubrr, 
1803,  aged  27  years.     He  bore  his  sulTerings  with  patience  and  resignation. 

Wherever  Gottsohalk  appeared  the  muse  of  poetry  be- 
came iuspire(L  From  Switzerland  to  Rio  piece  after  piece 
of  poetry' was  dedicated  to  him.  They  would  till  (piitc  a 
volume.    In  truth,  it  might  be  said,  that  wherever  he  made 


tliat  ot  K(l- 
ro  wiTc  tlitii 
,0  vjiult  [UV- 

fiiu'st  -will to 
ii'di'stal  i'v>ts 
[s  a  bouk,  on 


aOTTSrilALK  AS  A  MAS. 


w 


his  ..phoammy  poetry,  tIom.,-s,u,Ml  cnmnn  ^^^,^vo  h,.stou,.,l 
"P""  ii>M.  I  ;•  vvuH  lavscutul  wifl,  tl„vo  onlrr.  tl,„t  ..f 
ClK.valjcr  .lo  1  Onl.v  mil  ot,  n.ilit.ir.  ,l,i   Mn„  ,1.    ||„i 

>;  tlm  hiuMo-  IJ..l..t,.ii,-|.,n.l),.Mri.'),ortlu.  n.val  an.l  .li.. 
tm.u,slH.,|  (,,,.,,.  or  IsalK.lla  flu.  (^,tl..li,,  and  ;,(•('  ,1  ; 
du  lu  liuil  y  cli^tiuguMe  Unlcii  do  Carlos  Tcrccm 


(Is  Itrokcn. 
ill  t'runt: — 


II,  and  to  liis  sis 
11  love  ami  gruli- 


Bt'ds  and  genius. 


filk,  liorn  in  New 
k,  -S  l^^'llt^'nlb(•^■, 
!  and  resignation. 

of  jioc'try  Ijo- 
,'(■0  aftri"  piece 
1(1  till  (luiti'  a 
rcvoi'  he  made 


aOTTSClIALK  Arf  A   .MAN. 

TiiK  tollmviiiir  artirlo,  u.ulor  fl,..  sitr„afMro  of 'Fhwo' 
Me  extrart  troni  the  '.New  Y,.rk  J.ra.lrr,-  1.S7():_       =       ' 

Ail   I  r.'inciiilicr  ahont   (Jottsclialk   iiinMllir  ic    ii.ot   i 

al.s.,lut,.  «„>-.sliij,;  aii.l    linillv   ti,.  t  .    .  i        '^i    /md  sri, ■„<■..  was  an 

^.ncn,.w  .iJttachalk  j.rotty  intimately,  and  hav,.  had  many  a  good  time 
Ho  «aH  tl.(,  man  to  Lav.,  a  good  time  with. 

km' 'mo':;:.:^.::;-::^;^/""  ^^-•'•'  '^""-  =  -'-t  im  wa.  ..iany  .a 

th'i;.ltS:^K::r];;J,;''""^  "-  ^^'^^  '-  -"^^  -n,,anionah,,.  man  and 

iisll;:sf " '  '^'"""  '"'"'"■■•  ''"^*  '^' "'"'"  "-•''  -"^  '^•■y"""^  worth 

^JIo  wouldn't  listen  to  twaddle,  of  course  ;  he  didn't  consi,!...-  it  ,,„lita 

^'':S::^^^^  f^^.r'''^' '» ^■-  >-'  --  ^-^  the  wo...,,  ,„., 


I 


80 


Tiini;n.\pin<:\i.  SKETCH. 


•■■•SraH^Erri-:;^^  " 

"'•';.';:;•; ,,,  l,,u-,nv  tim.k  (.ot.«.-l.«lk  «•««  a  rolitl.ian,  wouM  .V"-.  I 

,..'i:r;n"::/i  xl:;:."".  -'^ ""  ■•"•'-'-■■•^  ■ ^""■"^' ■■"  ■" '"" 

Nml'li)  t.i  tlic  li:i.kl"'ti.'.  ...iiir.TtH  ill  Ciuuiila,  tlio  audi- 

.j^'j^^'i^^^Jt-'i^r";.;^';:;:;.';-:;:'-- m.....->' > 

;v';;;';:::;'l;:/J;;;  .".lir ...  ':»::,£■•■. ■  - '...,  .-.■ ...i... » ■ <■•■■ 

„  (,,....■  [..-ms  »  (.-.I.  i'  "..'  .li-ii."".;"  ";'''•,,  „,■„  ,|„i,.  ,ril.„.,.  I..  11... 

-;;::;,::;r:;;i:":"  ;,;'':r'i;r\;;.a'»i;:.i».."..,  .1.. -'  '-• 


M..lll^AU   UoilSUlALIi. 


00IISCU.1LK  A9  COM|.Oai!R  AND  ItASIST. 

tl„.  vivitVin^'  li."  IS  ii.dst  tiv,iu.'  "l.v  '7''  ;;,  '    '  ..,,,1  „,,i„  ,i„.ir  ..xpiuisivo 

{i„„s  of  tin.  .,WHl,..n  H.l,o„    !'•     '    •     ;.^;  ,    ^,'         ;„  „ur  -lays  ;  tlu"  rhar- 

ncter  and  toicc  ol  tlifir  >t\  h   ioiisimi  i      i  .  p|-,.t,.nsion  to 

tl...  art   of  paintin?.  and   r.M.t,M.t.<l   *''"'',     ;^..^,   ,,„.",.l,n„l   of   tlio 
,„„.,nonions  and  '•l"='^''-r'\  "'!;^7;  •,,   '^  ^!    ;,,,     ,      pMntin,,  bas  .lisrov- 


i|llli('ul. 
ri>!«llll:<. 

ui.it  mill  |iiiUti'.il 
woiiM  .v<">  ' 


11(11 


lis  «.ri'  viTy 


(ilipiilii'llt   tn  IiHiil- 
tliij 


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l.Iay.Ml  'll.iil 


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liiit  (it  Inst, 

lullv  111 


I,  iiiiiri'  siiirit  pi 

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by  ^fr.  A.  ^^:ll•- 
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nitfd  rUuiirtts.' 


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is  tliat  iiisiiivatidii, 

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laid  till'  I'n-st  loiinda- 

rlcctl'll    till'   pi 


ve  111' 
our  <lnys 


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writing   1 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


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Microfiche 

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Collection  de 
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«v 


m.. 


'•?SSf3JP!T^?— 


I 


1      I 


GOTTSCIIALK  AS  COMPOSER  A\D  A/ITIST.  ^l 

ralistic,  ami  inipressionalisfi,;  sohools.     W.   liav..  als,,  our  r.'nr..s,.ntativ..s 
of  Oiwutalisiu,    K,.li.-i..n   Davi.l,    lirycr,   aiM  liizct,  wl.„.s..  „aiM..s   s,.  w-U 
.•.■siM.ii.l  to  tlioso  ot   D.ranii.s,  Marilliat,  and  l'V..ni,.iitin  ;  ..iir  N,.o.{i,v,.ks 
Ilk,.    M„ino,l   Viotor  Massu.an.l  DapiMo,  wl.o  mull  to  ,.,s  llaii.on,  (irnmii-! 
ami  th,.  whnl,.  aidiaio  srliuol.     i,i  tlir  (Icinaii,!  for  .■oniiios,.is  Inr  tli.-  plino 
tlHTf  has  nsrii  up  a  crowd  of  landscai.f-iiaii.t.Ts.  j.roiH.rlv  ;^o-,allc.l   ,»»,•,' 
pamt.'rs,  scutiiMcntalists,  or  aiiiatfurs  of  the  iMcturosqu..".     M,.ii,I.>Ns,,Imi 
W,t    (  iKipiu,  Sfph.-ii  ll..ll,.r,  I'ru.lont,  Kosonliain.  Wollf,  Drlioiix,  S.l.u- 
loll    otc,  have  couiiK«(.,l  Humorous  charactHristic   piocvs,  v.rit.iMo  hiioux 
o,  ..•sorii.tive^,r,„v..     l'o,.ts,  musidans,  l.,vors  of  natnro.  timv  have  suni; 
ot  tlwir  absent  homo  or  ot  thoir  lost  country,  hy  translating  "into  th..  lan- 
gua;:..  ot  s.nmds   the  manners,  character,    and  teniperainent  of  <liller..nt 
nationalities. 

(i..ttsehalk  merits  a  separate  place  in  tliis  school  for  his  individualitv 
his  distinction  the  originality  of  his  eom,,ositioiis.  and  his  excei.tional 
skill  in  art  Without  haying  l.een  the  discijde  either  of  Chopin  or  of 
Liszt,  (.ottschalk  very  much  resembles  these  illustrious  masters  by  bis 
line,  delicate,  dreamy  teniperanu'iit ;  surrounded,  like  Clioi.in,  from  his 
infancy  with  generous  a«ecti(ms  and  tender  cares,  liorn  and  reare<l  in 
aristocratic  society,  his  instruction  and  education  were  carefiillv  watched 
over.  I  need  not  relate  th;'  interesting  and  romantic  ejiisodes  whi<h  drove 
the  grandparents  of  (iottsclialk,  whose  maternal  ancestors  were  the  Count 
and  Countess  <Ui  Hrusle,  from  St.  Domingo. 

The  name  of  (Jottschalk  will  always  live  in  the  ni.inorv  of  liis  friends. 
lIiH  work  as  composer  brings  him  near  to  Cliojiin  ;  :.s  artist,  he  holds  a 
position  between  Liszt  and  Tlialberg  ;  lie  obtained  from  the  idaiio  verv 
peculiar  ellects  of  sonorousness  ;  his  jday,  liy  turns  ner\o„s  .lul  of  extremV 
delicacy,  astonished  and  charine<l,  he  used  tlie  perlals  with  great  abilitv, 
a  perfect  tact,  but  to  our  mind  he,  jierliaps,  too  fre.inentlv  ii^^ed  the  soft 
pedal.  Minute  critics  reiiroached  him  with  writing  liis  line  embroideries, 
his  delicate  arabescpies  in  very  sharp  octaves  of  the  piano.  The  obscM-fa- 
tion  is  just,  but  it  must  be  remarked  that  manv  of  th(.  comipositions  of 
t.oitschalk  favour  by  the  rhythm  and  the  nature  of  the  ideas  these  elfects 
ot  shrill  sonorousness,  which  scintillate  in  the  liannonic  scale  of  sounds 
like  a  jet  of  electric  lire. 

Of  a  feverisli  activity,  burning  to  write,  as  if  under  a  presentiment  of 
bis  premature  di'ath,  (iottsclialk  published  in  a  few  years  a  relatively  con- 
siderable number  of  original  compositions,  ingenious,  delicati^ly  chiselled 
and  of  such  tinished  work  as  alKrms  the  rare  conscience  of' the  artist. 
Notwithstanding  the  universal  infatuation  of  the  voiui"  scho.d  for  the 
JHiwerful  sonorousness  and  the  processes  of  Tlialb(>rg',  (iottsclialk  has  sac- 
riliced  very  little  to  the  fondness  of  arpeggios,  which  for  a  long  time  had 
become  a  vi'ritable  monommia,  at  the  point  even  of  fatiguing  the  inv.'iitor 
himself.  Gottsclialk  knows  how  to  escape  from  this  fever  of  imitation,  and 
preserves  in  his  compositions  that  wholly  s])ecial  flavour  of  j.oetic  reverie 
an  individual  character  eminently  original.  liis  grand  fantasi.is  oii 
'.J.'rusalem,'  the  '(fod  8ave  the  (jueen,'  ami  'Trovatore,'  perhaps  accuse 
bun  of  being  a  little  under  the  intlueni'e  of  Thalbcrg.  but  they  are  an 
exception;  (iottsclialk  ofti'iii'st  only  depends  on  his  inMsoiial  inspiration, 
and  on  memories  and  bical  impressions,  remaining  sfi-iile  before  him;  soft 
melodies,  new  rhythms,  harmonious  murmurs,  a  whole  musical  w<uld 
rendered  prolific  by  the  artist. 

'Le  Bamboula,'  '  le   Banjo,'  'Colombia,'  have  the  lixed   character  of 


go  IilOai{A  I  III <-  .1  /.  f^l^l'  T(  11. 

,.|,-i....,     O^M.m.       1'?"^%,       ,,,.„;    ,„„vi„.^    ,,assi.ma,.-    note    vibraUs 

lumsi'lt.     V"    ."""^Jf"'  7  „,„„,,   ,,;,...,.s  for  til.'  salmi  an.l    .■.mwrt   true 
eftVot  is  iifvor  sought    oi ,  Im    al^^,^^^  P"    ^         ;  ,  j,;^  youthful  rap- 

„crit..«.«".i."«;'»'"l»»"»."l»'«a 

last  souvouir  of  syuipathetic  admiration. 


his  nootnrnos, 
,'  'Kicorclati,' 
uoto   vibratts 
\\  of  till)  artist 
liens,'   'Chuti' 
s  havo  all  iiitl- 
.1  has  t'Xci'Uod 
ore  alisoluti4y 
si-iration,  vnid 
1    fiiiioiTt   true 
itli  wisely  cut 
■s  FoUets,'   'la 
'  I'usciiiiuaile,' 
e   i)iaiio,  where 
tiuii,  where  the 
s  youthful  rap- 
mesa,'  '  Bergi'i-e 
,'  'Fantenie  tie 
juisheil  hanuo- 

xrclie  lie  Nuit,' 
,s,'  'I'Union,'  a 
ami  Scherzo,'  — 
rtility  of  iniagi- 

iclialk— neither 
lyle.  Ho  then 
leof  the  masters 
rable  souvenirs 
ave  appreciated 
eiulerness  ;  and 
irate  to  him  this 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


BY 


LOUIS  MOREAU  GOTTSCHALK. 


(83) 


■e"-^V®f!ffi«i£^--^: .  afct^ 


PREFACE. 

BY  THE  KUITOR. 


TiiK  Notes  .ind  Diary  of  L.  M.  Gottsclmlk  now  ofTcred  to  the 
public  oiiifiit  to  liiive  jippeareJ  several  years  ago ;  eirciiinstances 
over  wliicli  1  liad  no  control  prevented  it.  It  is  hoped,  however, 
that  this  delay  will  not  have  diminished  the  interest  felt  by  all  who 
have  known  and  admired  L.  M.  ( lottsehalk. 

After  four  years'  anxious  waiting,  by  dint  of  constant  applying 
to  the  Brazilian  Government,  and  through  the  kind  consideration 
of  the  Emperor,  the  trunk  containing  the  pajiers  of  the  celebrated 
pianist  was  at  last  sent  to  iiis  family  in  London.  When  opened  it 
was  found  to  contain  nothing  but  a  mass  of  soiled  and  torn  papers, 
in  such  a  dihipidated  condition  that  at  first  I,  who  undertook  the 
task,  confess  to  having  felt  discouraged.  Still,  having  resolved  to 
do  it,  I  set  to  work,  and,  after  a  labour  of  patience  and  persever- 
ance lasting  two  years,  I  completed,  as  far  as  was  in  my  power, 
the  Notes  now  published. 

This  I  state,  and  feel  right  to  state,  in  order  tliat  if  any  fault  is 
found,  the  blame  may  rest  on  me,  not  on  my  brother.  Had  he 
lived,  and  been  able  to  accomplish  his  cherished  scjienie  of  pub- 
lishing his  travels,  the  work,  no  doubt,  would  have  h&m  more  per- 
fect. I  have  done  the  best  in  my  power,  considering  the  difficulty 
of  the  task ;  and  must  now  leave  the  success  of  the  work  in  the 
hands  of  the  public,  and  to  those  who  have  appreciateil  our  dear 
brother  as  a  man  and  as  an  artist. 

1  am  greatly  indebted  to  Messrs.  Houghton,  Osgood  6c  Co.,  of 

Boston,  Mass.,  for  their  kind  permission  to  use  the  three  articles 

entitled  '  Notes  of  a  Pianist,'  which  appeared  in   the  'Atlantic 

Monthly.' 

CLARA  GOTTSCHALK. 


LosDos,  March,  1880. 

8 


(85) 


tiii»jat,rtiii..r  ^ 


NOTES  OF  THE  ALTlIOIl 

WHICH  MAY  HERVK  AS  I'HKFACE. 

WitiTTKN  willioiit  Older  and  without  coiinoction,  with  liasty  piii 
ii|.(.n  llic  l.'.'ivi's  of  my  |.ockc|.l.ook,  llicse  Notes,  wliicli  souk-  iliiy  I 
(.iirpose  to  publish,  were  at  first  di'stiiiod  only  to  bo  read  by  iny- 
self.  I  have  taken,  durin^t  tiie  long  years  that  I  have  travelled,  the 
habit  of  fixing  daily  my  impressions  of  my  Journey.  They  possess 
no  literary  merit,  but  they  speak  absolutely  the  truth:  is  that  a 
sufficient  compensation  for  the  numerous  deficiencies  of  style  which 
the  critic  can  find  in  them?  The  recollections  of  my  travels  have 
often  sii|)porti'd  me  in  the  ennui  and  fatijiuc  of  my  wanderiufr  life. 
In  writing  about  the  present  1  otten  forgot  the  bitterness  of  liie 
past,  and  when,  on  the  contrary,  the  present  became  wenrisome,  I 
plunged  into  happy  memories  of  the  times  which  are  no  more,  and 
I  reawakened  its  charming  emotions.  These  poor  leaves  have 
received  my  joy,  my  griefs,  and  my  pains  for  the  long  time  that  I 
have  whirled  in  that  monotonous  and  agitated  circle  whicii  is  called 
the  life  of  concerts.  :May  the  resider  lend  to  them  a  little  charm 
when  it  is  wanting,  and  when  he  shall  find  too  flagrant  i)roo('s  of 
awkwardness  in  my  pen,  let  liim  remember  that  1  was  but  a  musi- 
cian, and  only  a  pianist ! 


( 


(87) 


r"^ 


NOTES  OF  A  riANlST. 


CIlAlTEIi  I. 

^fv  fiixt  visit  to  Till)!!  was  in  IS.'):',.  It  was  on  my  rotnrn 
from  Kiiro[H'.  I  lia<l  Just  spent  ciulitcfii  montlis  in  Spain, 
five  of  which  wen-  at  the  Court  of  Maih'id.  I  spoko  Span- 
isli;  tlic  (^uivn  iiad  conferred  uiio?'  me  flie  Cross  of  Isahella 
the  Catiiolic;  and  the  Ciiiclanero,  after  havinu,'  lieard  tlie 
porformanco  of  my  symphony  'Lo  Sie<;e  de  SaratC'wse,'  had 
presented  mo  witli  the  sword  of  Montes,  tlie  iiii'noiis  '  Imll- 
ti^hter.'  I  was  tlierefore  in  tlie  l)e^t  condition  to  i)e  well 
received  in  the  '  I'earl  of  the  Antilles,'  without  relyinu; 
upon  the  hundred  letters  of  recommendation  which  it  was 
not  necessary  for  me  to  present  in  ordi'r  to  receive  the  most 
generous  and  friendly  hospitality.  80  much  has  heen 
written  upon  Jlavana  that  1  shall  not  essay  to  s[)eak  of 
what  is  so  well  known;  that  Ihivana  is  situated  ut  the 
hottom  of  a.  l)ay  (uiay  not  this  he  the  origin  of  its  name, 
which  ujt  to  this  time  remains  douhtful,  notwithstanding 
the  researches  of  the  etymologists — Havre,  Haven,  Havana?), 
the  very  narrow  entrance  of  which  is  defended  hy  the  funous 
'Morro'  on  the  left,  whose  camions  gape,  in  a  frightfully 
suggestive  manner,  within  reach  of  your  hand  ;  on  the  riglit 
hy  tlie  no  less  formidable  Fort  Culjana,  huilt  in  the  rock, 
and  bristling  like  its  opposite  neighbour  with  a  triple  row 
of  open  jaws.  Hardly  have  you  jiassed  these  two  threaten- 
ing sentinels,  than  the  sight  re[)oses  on  red,  white,  yellow, 
pink,  and  green-ccloured  houses,  with  stiuare  and  iliittened 
roofs  like  those  of  an  Arab's.  We  come  to  anchor.  The 
never-ending  torture  of  custom-house  ofKciuls,  doctor  of 
the  port,  captain  of  the  port,  clerks  of  the  port,  and  por- 
ters of  the  port  commences.     After  a  great  deal  of  noise 

8*  ( 89 ) 


pQ  SOTKS  or  A  rUMST. 

,„„1  littl."  w..rk  (it  i.  n.tl.cr  tlu-  i.umiiir  ..f  .InioiT  t|m.,irs  l.v 

Juluur  an.l  '  liA.n.lmrk.     Tl..-y  tl,.,,  ,.hj  us  ...  a  s.,ua  v 
Lll    in  si-l.t  nftl.r  .'ivil  Kuanls,ai..l  i'stal^  .>h  ......  ..Im  itv 

l.v  i.icai.snr  <..ir  i.ass|...rts  uivrii  j.ivviouMy  to  tla- nij.tain 

until  we  shall  M"'""  <'"'  i^'"""' "'  '"  '•'''  '"'""  """'      ''• 
us  a  itci'iuit  to  land.  ,     n  ■   i   ,.i 

|)unn>^  tl...  v..va..r  tV-n.  N.-w  (Mean,  to  Havana,  1  Lad 

whose.  n.o.U.st   tnivllin,t.MliTss  ha.l   .xp-jsnl    .1'."'.'."',"' 
,„.U.n.ss  of  some  .-i.'h  tra.h'sn.cn,asiK.ru.s  ,.t   n..livj.lna  s 
.;;,„,,  ,.,,,,1  ,h.  st..an..rs  ofth.  wo.l.K  an.l  who  n-v  nhva>H 
n.,M..n.i/.o.l  l.v  thoir  cravats  of  cvory  shixl.-  an.l  .•olo.n,  th.  i 
insoK.n.v,  ana  ha-l  tast..    Tl.o  tw.;  stranuvi's,  who  ayi-"';-'! 
to  h.  hut  sli-l.tlv  aiUvtcl  hy  th...r  ostm.'ism  stoo.1  aj.a  t. 
]K.sin.iM  to  inaU;.  n,.  f.T  the  .•u.h'.u.ss  ot  n.y  ^-ll";;;-;-'""'    •  " 
men,  r  soULcht  an  oi-i.ort.n.ity  to  mtroUiur  niys.lt  t..  tl.ci  . 
!j,.\.v..nin^-,wh...   a.vo.,lin,,^  to  th.ir  ^'y^/^''^ ''-3-  ^ 
c-onvorsin,^  at  the  stern  of  th,- hoat,  1  Wan    t h.n.  l-'-'ou  .  e 
the  nan,.:  „f  ('o.n.t   Man.iani,  an  exile;    latl.o  ir  yo.    an 
..hilosopher,  whom   I   ha.l   known  u,   1  ans.         >'^;}^\^^ 
iKrasio,',  an.l   i,itr...luee.l  invs..li      At  the  ^"''l  <«     '  "  * 
hour  we  were  the  best  tVien.ls  u.  the  w.M-l.l.        lea rne.l    I  at 
tlu-  lar-e  ..M  man  with  re.l  beard  was   he^Count  do  (  a>- 
sat..,and  that  his  tVi.n.l  was  the  Count  .lo  M'^l'M-'ta,    ••; 
travellin.r  tor  th.ir  i-U-asure,  an.l  m  i...sscssion  ol  a  tortuiiL 
ofn,anvniiUi..ns.    ()  wealthy  sh.M.keei.ers,  it  you  hut  knew 
it'     There   was  soniethinti  t<.uehintr  ni  their  trieiidslui., 
wiiieh  ha.l  been  e..ntraete.l   un.ler  very  sinirular  eireuni- 
.tanees.     Both  of  these  old  bachelors    i.hil..soi.h.r.,  an.l 
travellers,  iifty-six  years   ..hi,  ha.l    made  up  tl-'"; /'^"L'  ;;; 
the  one  in  Tuscany,  the  ..ther  in  Tumi    t..  visi    the  h  e 
,,i,rts  of  the  d..be.    They  had  laid  their  plans  iiic  hodically 
bv  tixin.r  the  probable  ep.x-h  of  their  death  at  the  age  <.t 
sixtv-tiv"-,  an.l  they  c...n,ne„ce.l  their  travels     One  eyenm- 
the  "Count  do  Cassat.)  ha.l  sou-ht  refu-e  tor  the  . light  in  an 
inn  in  the  imrth  of  Spain,  an.l  ha.l  iii.)n.>poli/.e.l  tor  Ins 
supper  the  scanty  pr..visi..ns  whi.-h  from  tune  iinmei.u^nal 
are  found  (whe.r  fomi.l  at  all)  h.  the  laixler  ot  a  Spanish 
um— that  is  to  say,  a  eup  of  chocolate,  some  hard  egg>>,  aiul 


s/ym/.A/i  MEhyriMi, 


M 


\\f  tliintTH  l»y 
I'd  \A\w  a  I  It  I 
«  in  :i  s(|Uiir*' 
our  idfiitity 
I  till-  fiiptMiii 
tiiriicd  to  iH 
iiu'  llifv  'jcivo 

iiviiiiii,  I  liiid 
two  Itiiliaiis, 

tllllll    to    tlic 

if  iiidividiiids 
no  iiiv  ahvav;* 
I  colour,  their 
^vlio  apiK'iircd 
1,  stood  apart, 
■llow-coiiiitry- 

ysi'lf  to  tlu'lll. 
•  Ill,  lln'V  wi'iv 
iciii  iiroiiouiico 
liolic  ^iiH't  and 
1  si'izi'd  the 
nd  of  lialf  an 

I  U'liniid  that 
L'otuit  dc  ("as- 
liilaiicrta,  hoth 
)n  of  a  fortunu 

yon  l)Ut  ki\e\v 
i-'ir  friendship, 
liXnlar  ciivnin- 
loso]ilu'i's,  ami 
\)  tlii'ir  inindi^, 
>  visit  the  live 
IS  mi'tliodieally 
I  at  the  age  »»t 
;.  One  evening 
the  night  in  an 
poli/.ed  for  \)\^ 
ne  iinnioniorial 
•r  of  a  Spanish 
:  hard  eggfi,  and 


ohves.     \\  li.  II  another  hungry  traveller  presented  hini„.|f, 
the   landlorii,   pressed    hy  tlie  reiterated  demaiids  ..f  the 

lle\Veo|iier,expos.d  his  sitlial  ion  to  th..  fi  rst.  'rheCoiinl  di' 
(  assato,  with  niiK'ii  .■arnestiiess  and  t-o.-d  hnnionr,  olU'.vd 
the  halt  of  his  siipptTaiid  his  hed  to  the  iieweoiner,  who 
was  no  other  than  the  Coinit  de  Malaperta.  Tlie  sii,..-,,- 
lanly  o»  this  meeting,  the  simihiruv  of  Mieir  positi.ms 
tastes,  and  pr(,j,.,ts  hoimd  them  to  each  other,  and  thev 
have  never  separated  since  that  dav.  When  I  h.cani.' ac- 
quainted with  them  they  had  alreailv  visited  Asia.  Afii.a, 
the  whole  <.f  Kiirope,  and  South  Ain.rica,  and  tliev  wen' 
now  ironig  to  Havana  ,»  root,  for  Mcxi,,.,  \vnu\  whence 
they  e\|.ected  to  leave  for  Australia,  and  the  epoch  which 
they  had  lixcd  for  their  death  hciiii;  verv  Hear,  I ).  V  tliev 
w..iil.|  return  from  thence  to  Turin.'  They  each  wrote  daily 
tlieir  impressions  of  tlieir  travels.  Theri.nnt  <le  Malap.rta, 
u  learned  philosopher,  whom  a  lii^dit  shade  of  misanlhri.pv 
I'crhaps  rendered  less  agiveahle  than  Count  de  ('assat(.,  wa's 
to  undertake  the  task  of  con(U-nsiiii.'  and  comhinin.--  the 
two  journals  at  the  end  of  the  voyai^e. 

Italians  and  eiitlnisiasts,  two  lioiirs  had  not  elapsed  after 
landing  hclore  they  had  found  a  inusie-sliop  and  a  piano, 
anil  my  tirst  evening  in  Havana  was  spent  in  plaviii--  for 
these  twocliariniiigand  veiierahle  men  the  whole  repertory 
ot^their  (K'ar  Italian  music. 

This  manner  of  travelling  hardly  resemhled  tliat  r)f  the 
two  hng  ishmen  tliat  \  nut  some  years  since  at  ToIi.)sa. 
Iiey  ha<l  their  courier,  who  spoke  Spanish  (of  wliicli  tliey 
did  not  understand  a  word);  they  carried  tlieir  tea  with 
them  ;  wore  green  veils  on  their  trrav  hats,  and  tlu'ir  eternal 
tie!d.n;|ass  suspended  in  its  ease  hy  a  hand  around  the 
shoulder.  J'hey  read  every  numher  of  '  The  Times'  which 
liad  heen  issued  since  they  left  homo,  and  had  Wvn  sent 
to  them  from  England.  I  found  them  eiuht  months  after- 
wards, at  Cadiz,  at  the  Ihjtel  d'Aiigleterre,  with  their  tea, 
green  veils,  gray  hats,  their  spy.c:..ss;  and  their  courier.  The 
only  change  which  had  taken  j.lace  in  them  w.  s  that  they 
ha<  '  L  nele  Tom's  Cahin'  (tlieii  ail  in  vogue),  which  their 
amhassador  had  given  tliem  at  Madrid.'  Thev  <li<l  not 
understand  one  Avord  of  Spanish ;  had  never'  seen  the 
country,  only  the  Hotel  Anglais  of  Cadiz,  of  Seville,  and  of 


92 


ISOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 


''?'mI  A  w; ; .  r,;n'u'; lit; .Va,  of  .1,0 11....1  .l•A"- 
and  \(>iiii__,  ,-.  ^,w  1  ,^f^|  know  the  (.  olisouin, 
imm-ossioiiB  ot  Italy.      \\  no  (l(K^  m-i  ivi.  \i„,.i'   tlii> 

Wor  to   iK^.tk^s  ™n*<a,.toa  bv  m.ll.ons 

i ,  :  van  t  "  .1. 1. 1  .nakc;  to  ro„on-a.o  n,t«  >i-'  >";;;-i»  "^ 

ri;;:'!;raBi:^f^'|;:S'?-^:i-;S 

i^ioncu  aic  r^r*^        ,.i.ivtlie  castanets,  ami  arc  8mugi2;lers ; 

tha  tt.  Gem  .    arc  beer  ban-el:.  in  the  n.onnns  and  LarroU, 
that  tnc  vjtci  iiiaiin  .I  Ttiilians  are  <riveii  to  assat^si- 

of  leer  in  the  evening  ;  that  the  Italians  a.    » 

-£  Strbeenta  Z'SZ  Xn  ^I'^'nlt^.o  .Jo. 


aiiAMJ  FESTIVAL. 


avo  iK'on  re- 
I't'iiinsulairo 
Hotel  d'An- 
lunv  a  I'oun- 
rlu>  inair-KTrt 
■  all  ]>ivcon- 
'•^,  and  above 
me  wisher*  to 
a  (•ariK't-lia<r. 
-nernl  are  an 
Can-:    '^Tliat 
,  but  for  tl>e 
\\  ni(n-e  eom- 
e  to  yiureliase 
many  do  not 
ratopi  whom 
ithern  States, 
rtVontery,  and 
ma.ny  mamas 
f  to  them  his 
the  Coliseum, 
St.  MiM-k,  the 
,  and  the  liay 
taly  by  heart, 
loss.    I  have  a 
)f  classioal  _d.> 
i   of  eenturies. 
1,  the  personal 
o  the  minds  of 
wlien  they  are 
imstances  men 
,  and  to  probe 
II  tell  me  that 
sive;   that  the 
that  the  S\.an- 
ire  smugglers ; 
md  polygamy ; 
ling  and  barrels 
u;iven  to  assassi- 
this  I  know,  or 
ae  not  to  know 


03 


it,  Soim-  travellers,  through  imbecility  or  ])ad  faith  in 
sjieaking  of  the  plantations  in  Cuba,  deny  the  assertions  of 
tlie  enemies  of  slavery  Iiy  assuring  us  that  the  slaves  on 
the  plantations  visited  by  them  have  a  happy  air,  and  that 
during  their  stay  they  had  not  heard  a  single  blow  of  the 
Avhip.  lla]>py  tourists!  Suppose  that,  instead  of  looking 
upon  these  joyous  tiiees  which  smile  in  the  |ii'esenci'  of  their 
master,  you  had  had  the  curiosity  to  take  otl'tlu'  clotlus  of 
these  unfortiuiates  and  to  examine  tlii'ir  shoulders,  you 
would  have  learned  more  in  a  few  seconds  by  the  view  of 
certain  scars  badly  heaii'd.and  jierhaps  wounds  still  I)Ieed- 
iiifr,  scarcely  healed,  than  all  your  observations,  founded 
upon  your  su])positions,  had  taught  you. 

On  my  arrival  at  Havana  T  forgot  the  distance  I  had  just 
travelled,  and  kei)t  on  my  linen  clothes.  The  winter  was 
truly  oi)0  of  th"  most  rigorous  that  had  ever  been  expt  ri- 
enced  in  llas'ana.  So  on  the  day  after  my  arrival  1  was 
taken  ill,  and  was  contined  to  my  bed  by  a"  threatened  in- 
flammation of  the  lungs  for  three  wi'cks.  1  was  scarcely 
well  when  the  Captain-General,  Marshal  Serrano,  invited 
nie  to  the  J*alace,  and  two  days  afterwards  I  gave  a  very 
successful  concert;  but  the  fatigue  I  experienced,  after  my 
long  illness,  caused  a  great  irritation  of  the  bowels,  which 
rendered  it  again  necessary  to  keep  my  room,  and  to  diet 
myself.  Two  months  after  (on  the  offer  made  to  me  by  the 
Cicneral-in-chief  to  place  at  my  dis|)osal  all  of  tlu-  military 
bands) — I  had,  I  say,  the  idea  of  giving  a  grand  festival, 
and  I  made  an  arrangement  with  the  director  (»f  the  Italian 
com])any,  then  in  itossession  of  the  givat  tlioatre  of  Taeon. 
]tc  contracted  with  me  to  furnisli  his  chief  performers,  all 
the  choruses,  and  all  his  orchestra,  on  condition  of  bavin*'- 
an  interest  in  the  result.  I  set  to  work  and  eom[iosed,  on 
some  Spanisl'  verses,  written  for  me  by  a  Ihivaiiese  poet,  an 
opera  in  one  act,  entitled  '  Fete  Champetre  Cid)aine.'  Then 
I  composed  a  Triumphal  Ilynm  and  a  grand  march.     My 

orchestra  consish  d  of  six  hundred  and  lifty  pei-fonnei-s 

eighty-seven  choristers,  fifteen  solo  singei's,  fifty  drums 
and  eigh-.y  trumpets— that  i ;  to  ^ay,  nearly  nine  hundred 
persouti  bellowing  and  blowiu;;  to  see  who  could   scream 


04 


NOTI-S  OF  A  PIANIST. 


tl.o  lou.lcst.     The  violins  alono  wore  seventy   in  numhov, 

You  .an  iu.lirc  of  the  ottbct.  Nc,  one  can  ha-e  an;.  t.U 
of  t  e  h  hoi.-  whiel.  it  cost  me.  The  copyu^g  ulone  at  t^^ 
re  .stral  parts  amounted  to  live  thousand  trancs  Ih  Me 
w.'  e  two  thousand  pa.^^es  of  the  act  ot  the  <>l-'>'^  •', ^'  ,\^'^. 
^^.  Cuhah.e'  more  than  fm.r  thousand  V^^^:^^^^^ 
two  tliousand  l.a-es  for  the  llvnui.     1  was  obhge.l  to  am  tc 

0  o  h^h  scluvtor  all.  Beii.les,  I  had  to  revise  p^vre  hy 
1  t  1r'  whole  ei-ht  or  ten  tliousan.l  pag'es.  I  had  m  t  e 
;S\v^  < -ch  an  anionnt  of  labour  tlmt  1  rc-mamc.1  sj^eji^- 

t  vo  hours  at  work,  sleeping  only  two  hours  m  v^  e,^  tAA  entj  - 
!•  1  xv.<  to  ir  V  a  very  heavy  forfeit  m  case  1  was  not 

.'';;  V  at  the  t  me  «xed   n\he  contract  made  with  tlie  nn- 
n  ^.H^.  of  th^^i^So.    "  Xotice  to  artists.    To  give  a  con- 
^n  t  ^  Ta:^-  i'  o.,nal  to  laying  a  plan  for  a  cjunjjaijrn 
Jopiming  an  opera  of  Meyerbeer  on  the  stage,  or  to  el  t  n  g 
t  K  "ri^i^Joriot'of  Bal/aV-,  finally  it  is  an  immense  elfo  t, 
reiuiring  a  great  deal  of  money,  of  time,  ol  dij^oinac^ , 
ai  I    uwles  of  steel  in  the  service  of  an  iron  will. 
"mv  health  iV>r  a  veiy  Unig  ti.ne  has  ^^}}-^'-^^^ 
i^  sen-  far  from  being  altogether  re-established      J-^*.^^"^    *, 
don-  and  change  of  climate  have  great  y_  tried  it.     I    u  -t 
;  t    0  •  nling  to  the  a.lviee  of  my  \''^y-^^^,^'^^^\^' 
S  of  the  *orth  which,  .hiring  thU^   -.del^  ^^)^n 
excessive.     In  eight  days  I  prokd^iy  shall  '^^  ^    ;;^'^  ^' 
loans  au<l  I  shallremain  there  only  one  or  two  AveeU 

The  heat  here  is  already  insupportable,  and  m  spite  ot 
tlK  em  i-t   m  de  by  the  opera,  an<l  two  or  t^ree  American 

1  i ivuscs  nearly  everybody  has  left  for  the  country. 

We  ox  ect  from  "day  to  day  the  company  ot  'Zarzuela 
ra  S^mH    opera),  that  Don  Carlos  Kaya,  the  present       - 
(a  opanisn  >  i )t  . ;  ^^  engage,  and 

iSSVo  nl   ^i    Cing^^  tlUical  season  with 

:tnu-:^flu;r;:rilliant'ltaliav   troupe,  whisht  U3^^ 

hnpressario  promises  us  at  the  beginnr-.g  "^^  ^f  ["^^,^^1 
l"  til  now  I  do  not  know  anything  deh-ite  about  the  p<r 
I      /of  this  latter  companj'.     So  many  ^^^'^^J^^ 
i'  »  Mf  tbnt  it  -^  impossible  to  foresee  who  will  be 

c!;:4vdy  ll^on  mLuuc-c.1.  'The  lust  uvuuber  of  tl.o  '  .To„m„1 


LA  GAZZAXIGA. 


05 


in  number, 

•0  any  idea 
ilonc  of  the 
IK'S.  There 
•ra;  for  the 

and  nearly 
o'c'd  to  write 
iiso  i)as2;e  hy 
[  had  in  the 
ned  sc'vonty- 
vory  twcnty- 
so  1  was  not 
^•iih  tlie  ini- 
'o  give  a  eon- 

a  camiiaiirn, 
or  to  oditint:; 
mient^e  e-ifort, 
if  diidonuiey, 
win." 

•arions,  and  it 
I,  Exfossive 
;d  it.  I  nuist 
eneountor  the 
ntor,  hart  been 
1)0  at  Xi'W  Or- 
I'o  weeks, 
nd  in  spite  of 

ree  Amcriean 
untry. 

'  of  '  Zarzuela' 
le  present  im- 
to  engage,  and 
cal  season  with 
hifh  the  sanie 

of  December. 

about  the  prr- 
liifercnt  artists 
ee  who  will  be 
I)  have  all  suc- 
of  the  '.Tonrnal 


de  la  Marine,'  of  Havana,  asserts  that  the  whole  four  will 
eome.  This  assertion  is  so  much  the  more  singular,  as,  he- 
sides  thi'se  four  [irima  donnas  di  Cartelle,  Iveiniett,  con- 
tralto, is  already  engaged,  as  well  as  Fanny  Xatale,  soprano 
sfogato,  and  Agnes  Xatali,  contralto.  Total,  suveii  doniie 
de  prime  Cartelli.  The  tenors  are  J'ancarri,  A'olpiiii  (whose 
wile  is  engaged  as  second  prima  donna  for  the  operas  of 
'Mezzo  C'arattero')!!  and  Testa,  a  charming  tenoriiie,  whose 
ex(piisire  method  makes  up  for  the  <lcticiency  of  a  synijia- 
thetic  Itut  fet-lde  voice.  The  baritone  and  bass  are  equally 
goiul.  'J'hu  choruses  are  to  be  augmented  by  foiu-  men  anil 
four  women  engaged  in  Paris  bv  Air.  Kaya.  The  orchestra 
Avill  also  l;o  engaged  there,  the  artists  engaged  for  the 
S]>anisli  opera  are — Prima  donna.  La  Latarre,  J^a  Xastariz, 
and  La  Santa  Maria;  tenor,  Gonzales;  baritones,  Fol- 
guerras  and  Kuentes.  The  leaders  of  the  on-hestra  for  tlio 
two  companies  are  six  in  number — a  nujuber  which  ap- 
pearing ex;  ggerated  is  nevertheless  hardly  sufficient  for  an 
audieiii'c  that  constantly  wishes  something  new,  and  deserts 
the  theatre  on  a  second"  representation;  '  La  T'-aviata'is  the 
only  opera  that  has  triumi>he(l  over  the  apathy  of  the  ])ub- 
lic  of  Havana.  Ahix  Abiretzi'k  gave  it  twelve  or  tifteen 
times  before  crowded  houses  last  winter,  and  nineteon  times 
the  preceding  season. 

It  is  ji  fact  sutlicii'ntly  interesting  to  be  noticed  that  tho 
ladies  literally  took  jiossession  of  the  theatre  everv  time  the 
posters  aimounced  'Traviata.'  (3n  t  .e  ].art  of 'the  ladies 
were  sobs,  transports,  ejaculations  at  each  of  the  dift(-'rent 
catastrophes  of  the  drama  of  Alexander  Dumas  fils,  the 
sight  of  which  was  very  amusing,  and  more  tlian  once  ex- 
cited the  unbecoming  laughter  of  the  pit.  La  (iazzaniga, 
wIioh;  gestures  and  acting  are  somewhat  violent  and  often 
exaggerated  and  adapted  to  a  southern  audience,  had  Ijc- 
eome  two  years  ago  the  idol  of  the  fenunine  puidic  of 
Havana.  The  enthusiasm  which  she  excited  bordered  on 
madness.  The  gentlemen  threw  their  hats  to  her,  the  ladies 
their  embroidered  handkerchiefs  and  their  bracelets.  Two 
factions  were  formed,  whose  disputes,  begun  in  the  theatre, 
were  kept  up  in  the  streets,  and  many  times  frequently 
threatened  to  liecome  a  riot.  One  of  these  factions  took 
tin   part  of  Frezzolini ;  it  was  the  enlightened   and  eon- 


1 

I 
II 


NOTES  OF  A  PIASIST. 

tl,..  la.lios  an.l  the  yountr  ^  /'V'  ;  .md  at"  tl.o  aristocrat u; 
(,,..aui.iuistas  or  ^^--^  !  j^;  '  ;^  \^^ortuuat.  dancorH 
],alls  of  one  or  the  othci  l'  '\";  ;!\^.^.,,.  H,orciU-ssly  sacri- 
,vla.  l.olo.>un.a  to  t^u"  oH"-;   '  /;  a^  confo.fuar.rs,  tlu; 

fi,,  1.  The  ^l'-;-;;f  -  i:!'^.:;^V;;  ;me  l.ore  '^  k  IVas  lata,' 
vafos  wore  i.arti>an_>.  i  ■  V  ^  themselves  at  Ins  shop. 
j,„.l  all  the  <la//,anuiui>  a>  sui  .  '  K,e//olhnstas  ran 
Another,  'a  la  ^-;'''''''"V     'i;     hu ma    l.assio,,s  should  he 

there.     It^^^''^  iV'T       n.      Ji.K  M  ^^  '' 

exeite.!  so  violont  v  _  hy  suel        U  uu ^^  ,^^  ^.^10^. 

certain  that  si^eenktu-u  ^'^,J'  ;;'l^'^^.  ,,,,s  A^re  n.ade  in 
veseenee,  .M  tl.  ^-^,  ^^  /^l  ^^^,,1,,  receive.)  fr<nn  the 
a  few  months.  At  la  "^  !\"  '  ^.  .^  .,„i  i  i,i  commem.^ration 
l.ul.lie  a  I.M-e  and  a  cup  *  \;;  '5^\^;a  ,,|,taiued  in  '  Satlb'  hy 
k.thedouUe  triumph  which  ^^^^  I'/^^'^'Vpi,,  ,,,,ipts  were 
Pacini  and  the  M5nn<lisi  ^l"^^"^^^,  the  icwels  whieh 
over  twenty-tivc  thousai       ..mc.  ^^^     .  ^  ^^.^.,-\,itl,out  ex- 

,vere  tl.rown   o  ^^.^^J^  ^tl  ii^to   oi'ty  thousand  francs. 

am^'i-ation  valued  a.  ii^^»^^",  '/V,, ,  .,^^.  ^„ecoss  last  year  in 
"La  Cartesi,  soprano  s  ogato,  lV''<  J^.^  ;'!    .p^,^  ,xuheranec 

^Trovatore,'an.l  l'a[^^^'»  '\'-^>;;;;;,  ,J, ,  1    e  oxakvrations  re- 

of  her  gesture.  and^.rt.m  ^^^^;^,^  advantage 
called  Uazz-aniga.    ^he  h.  I    ^^^^  Nothing  more  was 

of  ai^poaring  ''^^^^  ^^  !^tml  o^^  partisansf  The  Gaz- 
wunting  to  a\yaken  the  "'^y^;' "'  •  \^^.,.  iiappv  rival,  was 
zaniquistas  adopted  lioi-^  l^^^^^^^^^^^f  the  strife  recom- 
Bustained  hy  ^l^e  iKH^plc  o    ta,t|    am  the  encore 

n,enced.     The  anthmntu^s  ^^^  ^  J^^  of  both  prima  dou- 

1  l>ave  heen  to  Cardena.  to  give  a  ^?^^^:^'Z 
tion  tor  whieh  had  been  ^;^J^  ^ty  .vhich  is  not 
I'hilharinonlc  Society  «*,  *  ,^,{'  '"^e^^w  reckone.1  among 


CAnDICXAS. 


07 


composed  of 
If  ^•i^ls  wre 

aristocrat  ii; 
latt.'  (liUU'orr< 
iU'ssly  sacri- 
ctioiH'rs,  tlio 
la  l^-iiv'iata; 
1  at  his  sliop. 
'.olinistas  ran 
lis  should  ho 
ilitios.     lt_  is 
ifoiioral  ottbr- 
voro  made  iu 
ivod  I'roiu  the 
iimit'inoration 
[  in  '  Sattb'  by 
roc'C'iptrt  wore 

jewels  which 
V  without  ex- 
nsaud  francs. 
ss  last  year  iu 
"hoexuheranee 
iiiigerations  re- 
.mse  advantage 
ling  more  was 
uis^    The  Gaz- 
ip))y  rival,  was 
!  strife   recom- 
and  the  encore 
loth  prima  don- 
Each  of  them 
'ceipts  of   each 
iand  francs. 

rt,  the  8uhscrii>- 
advance  by  the 
tv,  which  is  not 
reckoned  among 
'arly  one-half  of 
y-  seven  hundred 
I  thousand  hogs- 


heads of  mrdassos)  is  exj ported  every  year  from  Cai-ilenas. 
Its  Jurisdiction  contains  five  huiidivd  thousand  souls  and 
six  hundred  sugar  houses.  AVithsucli  t'lcuiciits  it  must  he 
one  of  the  richest  of  the  island,  llcr  husincss  is  almost 
exclusively  witli  the  I'liited  States,  ^'isited  priiiciiially 
by  the  ^'ankees,  whose  activity,  enteritrising  spirit,  and 
industry  agree  marvellously  witli  the  necessities  and  char- 
acter of  its  inhabitants,  she  is  at  the  head  of  every  enter- 
l)rise  and  of  all  the  ]irogress  which  for  some  years  past 
have  ti'ansformcd  ancient  Cuba,  and  made  of  her  to-dav 
one  of  the  richest,  most  civili/ed,  and  most  beautiful  coun- 
tries of  the  world,  rerhaps  the  jjreceding  statistics  may  l)e 
found  useless  and  tiresome,  but  it  seems  to  me,  now  that 
regenerated  Hpain  has  revealed  to  Europe  all  her  resources, 
and  again  takes  tlie  rank  which  fornu'rly  belonged  to  her 
among  the  groat  nations,  that  it  will  not  be  witlKuit  interest 
to  many  ])ersons  in  the  community  to  know  the  imiiortaneo 
of  one  of  the  new  ports  of  its  ])rinciiial  colony.  The 
theatre  at  Cardenas  is  only  a  provisional  one,  and  but  little 
Avorthy  of  notice.  They  are  constructing  a  new  one, which  is 
only  about  one-third  uj»,  and  has  alreacly  cost  one  hundred 
and  ninety-five  thousand  francs,  and  ])romiscs  to  be  like  the 
Tacon  Theatre  at  Havana.  Tlie  churcli  isof  the  ( Gothic  style, 
and  has  so  much  the  more  charm,  as  1  am  accustomecl  to  the 
massive  and  heavy  architecture  which  the  talent  oi'  Iferrera 
has  made  to  such  a  u'reat  degree  the  fashion  for  the  last  two 
centuries.  It  is  elegant  and  boldly  su]iports  two  aerial 
clock-towers  which,  at  a  distance,  give  a  picturoscjue  etl'ect 
by  detaching  it  from  the  dark  verdure  of  the  cocoa  trees  and 
jtalms.  The  churcli  and  theatre  are  the  two  prime  neces- 
sities of  a  Spanish  American  city.  In  the  United  States, 
when  they  found  a  new  city,  they  commence  building  a 
liotel,  afterwards  a  church,  and  finally  the  noAvsjiaper  ofHce. 
Given,  the  hotel,  church,  and  political  discussions,  yon 
have  the  existence  of  the  Yankee.  Immediately-  after  the 
newspaper  office  comes  the  'Lecture'  or  'Concert  Hull.' 
The  'Loctiires,'  of  which  French  people  can  have  but  an 
imperfect  idea,  are  essentially  an  American  inventio'%  and 
have  become  an  imperative  necessity  for  a  ])eo]ile  cotistantly 
occuided  with  popular  elections,  political  or  religious  dis- 
cussions, and  public  discourses  on  every  possible  subject. 

t7 


,,g  NOTES  OF  A  PIAXIST. 

Tho  i,rolW.ion  c.f  lecturer  i^  one  of  the  most  lucrative  that 
]  l^wCot       Kv^'.-vl.o.ly  Hpeaks  M'ith  tu-ihty  and  w.th  a 
•or    in  elo,iuenc-o  tl.at  .lenuuuls  no  s,.ec-ial  study 

\       •oneert  at  Canlonas  was  a  c-oniplete  suuyss,    n.l  1  ^^  as 
.n.^m.Switii  the  enthusiastic  reception  winch  they  Ka^e 

" Widedly  my  trip  to  Cardenas  In.  tal^en  fidndons  pnv 

^'•^1'i'T  ""nn;srit  ^;w.>ti;;:iohnm!;^'il;;rcssions. 

^r       !iu'»d   s  t  Us   n  ^v^^^^  I  mni^norant  ..s  to 

one  can  sec  what  lie  liKes.     -luc  ini^y-  p,.i-li'nis 

in.r  of  h  ero«;lyphics.     But  the  """'r*'!.„\.^,,  .,,.^  „„:,,„ 
•■^v"   A  t  AT'iriias    "  \Vhcrc  are  we  gonig  t     \\  e  ai  c  gf )in_ 

tlietniu  (ia;)»wu  Cardenas  to  Havana,  tor  it  ih 

1      ;<-\  fii.it  tnv  three  days  1  luive  uclu  n^inj,  -^ 

by  it)  tliat  loi  TuiLc       f ,,,.,,  :^,g(,eiotv  of  Cardenas, 

Havana.    Invited  hy  the  1  hiUunomci^y    v 

the  happiest  memories  of  my  lirBt  %o>agc  to  ^im. , 
ISu  to  S  I'VTon  my  -eat  anA  my  tat,guo».'    Uow 


liswMsMBewsiHSWt'** 


Inrrative  that 

y,  and  with  a 

idy. 

coss,  and  1  was 

I'u'h  thoy  gave 

I  fiihulous  pro- 

)f  iiiiinvssions. 

iirnonint  as  t<> 
lilway  rarriatre 
111(1  whose  ji'i-ks 
.  spirals  (.'haria- 
onl  the  eyo  the 
tic  I'ornis  every 
irh  I  have  just 
disk.     I'erhaps 
hie  to  the  uiak- 
s:  "Where  are 
"  Wc  arc  gf)ini!; 
c  a  little  kiiowl- 
een  ignorant  for 
80,  my  residence 
[Tavana,  for  it  is 
ave  commenced 
ring  to  return  to 
ioty  of  Cardenas, 
1  all  the  ardour 
>rous  friends  and 

connected  with 
J  to  Cuha,  could 

;nes  an  hour,  and 
tering  every  now 
'tor  insists  on  ex- 
•tive  as  resulting 
e  of  green  wood. 
'  vicissitudes  and 
tears  my  cars  and 
,gaytome,"IIa8t 
^tatigues?     How 


niM.oauK  WITH  i.ocoMnrni:.  ,,,, 

;i'pii:tv:s'a;;j^ 

says  tlujt  eve,y  road  Ie.,ds  to  Ro,,,..,  tlu.;.  was      c  i  ! 

easou  tor  tlnnkn.g   that  tl.c  railn.a.l  fWm,    C'ardc  a  In 
navana  must  conduct  me  to  Havana 

last  tnice   la.>,.|     I„sscd  Irom  station  to  station   fro.n  inn 

o  mn   an.l_tin,ln.g  n.vs..]f  fiu-thcr  off  than  ever  f  le 

end  otour  .lourney !     J)o  „ot  complain,  for  if  thy  <'on.  lu-t    • 

on  y  gn-cs  thee  p-een  wo<.d,  I  endl.re  the  horn!  ^  cl     ^^1  ' 

■^  ^^'  .''"^  ^,^'.^"  Vl;^-l'i^'l' l"i^  I-een  served  up  to  us  on  the  roa.l  "' 
After  tins  <  lalogue  hetwec-n  the  locolnotive  and  n  v  df 
I  placed  myself  ni  a  comfortahle  position  for  a  nai.  fro  a 
which  I  was  not  awakened  until  n.v  arrival  at  av, 
hK)ken  down  hut  happy  for  hanng  e;caped  the  dai  ge.^  of 
a  long  and  fatiguing  journey.  '"'fetra  oi 


CIIArTER  II. 

wi?if  •''''""^P'  ""^  ^''"^  ^'^'1'^""'^  '^"1'''^''^^  ^  voluptuous  languor 
ndi  IS  contagious;  It  is  a  poison  which  slowly  infiltmie 
ul  tlie  senses,  ai.d   henumhs   the  soul  with  a  species  of 

i  passed  at  Caymito,  m  the  interior  of  C^iha.     I  had  iust 
recovered  from  a  serious  illness;  some  newspapers,  in.lied 
ad  niourned  for  me  in  very  flue  necroh.,.ical  artic'les;    M- 
^Z&o"^^'  tt'anng  a  malignant  fever,  had  prescrihed 

t^^-       T:^'"^  ?  '^'"^  ^"  1'"^^  nn■con^•ak.scence  in 
thejunsdictmn  of  Guanajay,  near  the  Sierra  d'Anafc     Ft 
^^as  a  vast  plan.,  m  the  centre  of  which  rose  a  lartre  s.n.are 
modern  huilding,  Jiaving  only  a  grovmd-fioor,  life,  most  of 


r 


100 


AOTKS  or  A  PIAMST. 


1 


tlK.  CulKin  lumsos.     A  fruM,.!  <.t  hu.usnv  u,   md  intrn.V.     o 
cwti.l.lish  ii  sUL'iir  i.lm.lation  <.n  tins  land,  pla.'C'l  at  i".>  ''>- 
,.    al  la  casa  d.!  a.ao  (tlu-  mast.rV  lu.u.o)  the  oiily  one;  .y.t 
,    Vl        Kvorv  su-ar  i-lantatum  invanal.ly  consist,  ot  tlR. 
win-  h.\ildini:-s,  wl.u-h,  for  hv-u-nir  reasons,  and    or 
vonk^.ro,  arc  identical:    C'asa  del  amo  which  cn.-n  .k 
the  centiv,  and  is  isolated  iVoni  the  rest  ot  tho^//.ra ;  ca^a 
rm        al,  the    cmuwandant-s  or   mana.^a.r'.    dwelUn-, 
,  a      .    niol  .inda,  the  huildinK  which  contan.s  thcs  cam- 
:,:.,c  lor  hrnisinu^  the  canes;  it  •-"nnuni.^ates  with    he 
sa    del    ealdcras  ^(boilers).     Ai  erwards  .oxuv.  d  lio^.d 
pital),  d  comd^n  which  the  d..niest.c  animals  are  ke}.  , 
1   +i,     U-  ■^i  Poiie  distance,  las  caonehos  do  la  negrada 
;\^;,''    d^n4     E V  o  el^^nni  the  mayoral  nhuts  them  np 
ti^^h;  k  and  key,  M^cr  havin-  c.dlcd  the  roll,  a.id  nuuc 
tl  .  n  rene-it  the  Pater  Noster  and  the  Ave  ^hirui.    2sotlnng 
;  '        d   ye   eUsfcd  at  my  friend's.     There  was  one  house 
d     at  wfiieh  wo  arrived  throndi  an  immense  avenue  ot 
m  ms      A  kind  of  woodc.i  asc-ent  of  twelve  stq..  led  to  an 
ex  eior  gallery,  a  sort  of  Indian  veranda  which  is  to  a 
Oda     hvellinrj  what  a  porter's  lod.tje  is  with  the  1  rench. 
Fn      t  e -alk^T  vou  k.ok  out  upon  the  conn  rv;  i    is  an 
olen-ioi-v;  visitors  ean  he  soon  comintc,  and   in  the  dis- 
?.    CO    he  ne-voes  watehed  at  their  work.     1  here,  he  is 
m  sed  hi  the  hammock  or  the  hutaca,  m  snu.kmg  sleep- 
Ingjn  drinking  cottee,  and,  above  all,  m  respiring  the  air 

"^^li^om- in  ?he  easa  del  amo,  or  to  bolon.  to  the  plantation, 
.urns  up  the  whole  life  of  the  negro.     I^o  servo  el  amo  is 
tl  0  m    shal's  baton  of  the  model  slavQs.    By  way  ot  l.unish- 
ent  thenegroeB  of  the  town,  who  have  committed  any 
e'-cadXs,  are  sent  by  their  master  to  the  holds  which 
lorvi    a  manner,  for  the  galleys.     Tlio  beasts^  ot  burden 
i-  the  t^^^l  are  intlnitely  better  treated,  and  their  oxistonce 
ess   ccmiprcmiisod  than  that  of  the  poor  slaves,  obliged, 
di  rim    the   grinding   season,  to   work   from   oig^htoen ,  to 
t^e  ty  hour^"every  ^ay,  to  brave  the  heat  ot  the  devouring 
sn    or  endure    the  ^lohi-ing   rains   without  any   other 
k"hes  than  calico  drawers.  ,  The  mayorales,  or  oveijjm., 
treat  the  sick  negroes  in  their  own  way.     I  do  not  know 
tliit  they  understand  anything  at  all,  but  these  gentlemen 


inh'iiAi'tl  to 

I  at  ii.y  tli^- 
i>iily  one  yvi 
isists  of  tlio 
•lis,  and  tor 
ic'h  ot'cniru's 
lijiiic'i ;  «"i^iv 
'a   ilwL'Huiii;; 
t^  the  stoani- 
tfrt  with  the 
K'rt  d  hiispltdl 
lalrt  aivkt'iit; 
i}  hi  nogtachi 
uits  them  up 
)11,  and  made 
nil.    Nothhig 
;as  one  house 
iwo  avenue  of 
teps  led  to  an 
^■hieh  is  to  a 
,  the  French, 
itry;  it  is  an 
id,  in  the  dis- 
There,  life  is 
noking,  sleep- 
[)iring  the  air 

:he  plantation, 
«rve  el  anio  is 
,vay  of  punish- 
Dinmitted  any 
•  fields,  which 
ists  of  hurden 
their  existence 
laves,  ohliged, 

II  eighteen  to 
the  devouring 
)ut  any  other 
^,  or  overseers, 

do  not  know 
lese  gentlemen 


S/A'6V7,.1A'  nr.MEDY. 


101 


ha  en  pn.<s,on  for  systems;  then  tl,.- ....nsemiencos  of  fhcs.. 
.  I  li.sistn.ns.  J.c,,„  (a  ,,:,u,,t  mrdicine)  Is  iruunillv  the 
urn  ersa!  panacea  must  conm.unly  en.plo  vd.'  I  f  n cu  t 
^mtiago  ,h.  Cuha  a   l!as,,nc  .ahm.st  :lll   H...  over   vr       f 

e    r;"a^;'"rr",;'';/'""'l'    '-U-.uhoconldh^nly 
u.Kl,  and  treated   all  the  sick   uith  cold  water.       \   UyX 

e.stern  m  the  n.   hUe  of  tl      ..alMal   was   the  onlv'L nejt 

t  Kit   at   tlie  riire  of  an  liysterical  voiiHir  lu^-ress   whom 
hev  threw  twtce  a  day  into  the  hasin.     sh.  struo..,-  „ 
r  hfy  in  the  water,  and  hy  a  miracle  was  not  drowne.  ,    .  t 

^™:;i!:''^^'^"'^^^''''-  '-—that she <iied five ii;;-^ 

frJI'^f^T  r^''*;^  •  ^  "'''.'•''•^^'"^  ^^■''■^  "t  ""  J-nr-s  distance 
fiom  the  first  (.ahms  of  Caymito.     Tliron-hont  the     ,st 
plains  an.l  the.  ^dds  of  .ane  not  a  vestio-e  of  ah  1  it      o, 
triuj  dese,;t  tor  a  league  ronml;  the  mo.n.tains  ^*   A    itJ 
n  the  hon.on.     Ah'.ry  an.l  Theophilo  (^authier  would  1       > 
Kvon.emad  m  contemplating  Ihis  para.lise,  in  w   i .1    an 
of  mv"  >V'"'  ''""'"'"'•     f'"t'"-t""nt.ly,  the  onlv  co  a    .   V 
ot  1  .    Kden  was  a  very  ugly  ..egress  who,  ever,  eve  ,J^ 
a  tcr  haying  roastc.]  the  .■ofiU-,  hruised  her  Corn  in  a  1.      w 
piece  o    wood,  and  recited  the  Ave  Ah.ria  Ik-Iov      ,     M 
«.  ourc.1  im..go  of  the  Vi,^i,,  .ame  and  s.,natte<   d  wn  t 
n  r.    ;:•/'"  ^^":  "^■•.'""''''  'V"'  tl'ore,  in  the  .hlrkness,  sunj  t 
charm,  the  canciones  of  the  countrv.     I  would  ]i,rl,t    hv 

0}  tills  Mient  and  primitive  nature,  into  a  cntemnlative 
reverie,  wliu-h   those  in  the  midst  of  t}:e  ever\--d.  v  w,  • ,? 
«.n  never  u.ulerstand.     Tlfe  moon  rose  ov<^;  tli.  Si^.,;*    e 
Anate       Fhe  crickets  chirped  m  thefiel.ls;  th-  Ion-  ave 
uue   ot  pa  1.18,  whidi   exf-nded  fn.m  the  casa  t     the  en-' 
ranee  ot    the  ],  antation,  was   sepa.-ated    into   two  ll-u  k 
ands  on  the  umform  ground  of  the  fields.     The  phos o  ,t 
rescvn    a.-ahesqnes  of  tlie  fire-flies  flashed  s.iddenlv^tLCh 
the  thick  darkness  that  surrounded  us.     The  distant  noi.Ts 
ot  thesava.mah,  horne  softly  hy  tlie  hive^e,  st  uck  o  i  nu' 
eai-  m  drawn-out  murmurs.     The  cadence.]  r-h.t,  ■     ?  "^ 

an  this  poe»y ,  which  no  one  can  ever  ima'ane 

9*  *      ' 


102 


yoTKs  or  A  /v.i.v/s^r. 


.    r    •  r  ivtirin-.     I  tlnvw  on.v  ii"..v  a  last  l.-.k    m  all 
,,      V  .llous  nat.uv,  and  witlahvw  into  no;  <>"">""[-  „, 

.,    ,Mt  .l-i//U'.»,  Htni.k  ii.v  laiMp  and  cxtniguisl.c    it       1  he 

;  ,      U,     ;     h  '^^^  little  anin.als  in  thoC'uhan  count rv  honscs 

'    mncnL-.     The  a,artnu.nts  havin,  no  ...hnj^    m    t  - 

♦•  w  ..If  ■md  hian'"-  sonaratfd   from  each    otlit-i  <""}"> 

natnos    (o\*i  «,.  i...  tlicir  (luartci-H.    As  soon  as  niiiht 

mmmmm 

T  Iro  wa-  little  of  variety  and  of  relative  interest   as    na> 
uotl'ini?  contrary  to  the  couuuandinents  ot  our  Mothei  the 


«■(.. 


r.i/'/'.i/.v  i.oito  .\si,  /.rsAd/:. 


tm 


ly  iMirar ;  my 
iiir  my  tiruin 
I  tla'  I'xtrtiiu' 
ciniiiiu'd  tlius 

(•(•  ot"   SiTi'llo, 

it*  tosiiy,  tli«' 
f,  look  oil  llll 
y  iliiimlitT. 
low  iukI  iIk'Ii 
shed  it.  'Hio 
oiiiitry  lionsc'rt 
liiio;s'lnit  tin- 
otluT  only  l>y 
ic'Vfii  U't't,  till' 
urity.     Kv^'iy 

illCCllls    II     IK'St. 

lliat    (Tdss  tliL' 
•ill  tiistc"  of  the 
uttiuji-    imiuli, 
^  soon  UH  nijilit 
wiiiiffd  colony 
,•  with  my  lyi'^* 
iming,  liiid  my 
8liari»  littli'  *'fy 
liiimlior.     Kow 
y  iiK'lii(U'<l  l»nt 
the  rustic  lihm- 
•0  Good  ("hiis- 
iiual  of  Cultiva- 
I'd  into  Sjiaiiish. 
the  Holy  Mass), 
iitcrcst,  as  may 
cious  discovery 

the  eighteenth 
ters,  inii>ossihle 
Kather  Don  An- 
le  Holy  TiKiuisi- 
of  His  Majesty 
he  work  l>y  the 
\t  he  has  found 

our  Mother  the 


Holy  Cliiircli.     This  l.ook  corifaincd  tli(.  pocticjil  works  o\' 
tile  valiant  and  very  illustrious  (thus  nm   the  title  of  the 
worM  cjiptiiiii  of    mtiiiitry,  Scfior  Don   H,. radio    .\ii.-iwto 
.lose  d(>  los  Angeles  de  J.(.ho  e   Xiiiieiies.     This  l.nivi'  mail 
ot  war  mtorms  us,  in  mi  epistle  t(.  the  ivader,  that  -Mais 
hail  ailopted  him  for  his  well-heloved  son;  that  Apollo   in 
m-ailtude    tor    the    Worship    which    he    had   vowed    |„  the 
Muses,  treated  hiiii  iis  aspoiled  child."     Well,  at   last  lu  .e 
IS  a  siiKvre  pivfai-e.     One  feels  at  ease  with    irood  (aptain 
I.oho   who,  m  spite  of  the  hullying  airs  which  he  takes  on, 
IS  at   hottoin  the  most  nmiahle  of  creatures.     His  cascnu. 
has  all  the  appearancoof  Memhrino's  helmet.     Mis  sonnets, 
when  he  does  not   turn   lliein  against  the  enemies  of  tlu' 
proud  (astiliaii,  are  the  iH.iupu.ts  of  ( 'lil(»ris.     Jn  the  midst 
otall  this  l.urles(pie  nihl.ish  I  found  some  charming  thiii.--s, 
HOUR,  pictures  of  manners   truly  strikiim",  and   some   vi'tv 
minute  details.     A  poem  on  the  taking  of  (Jihraltur,  for 
example,  where,  swimming  in   the  midst  of  Homeric  de- 
nouncements, and  of  furious  imprecations  ayainst  the  Knu-- 
lish,  I  discoven'd  some  very  interestiiiir  historical   tiicts  of 
an  undouhted  character,     f  toimd  in  it  the  wh  le  tralle    ■ 
ot    (ill   I  Mas'  characters.      Whether  l.esaire   has  stolen  or 
l»orrowed  his  work,  he  is  ci-rtainly  the  only  one  that  lias 
made  ol(l  Spain  known  to  France.   '  A/>r<>/)i>s  ot'  Lesatre,  what 
most  irritates  the  national  susceptihilitv  of  the  Spaniu-ds' 
Uihraltar,  it  may  he  replied;  or  rather  the  witty,  hut  sli-lit- 
ly   veritahle   gasconades  of  Alexander  Dumas,  r)/»/u,««  of 
Madrid,      ^o!     What  has  ren<lered,  and  still  renders  the 
Spaniards  unhappy,  is  the  usurped  ir|ory  of  the  author  of 

!i''\  '!';l'-i  in  ''^'^■'••'r'^ 'I  ^^•"■'^  Mhicli  l  n-ad  in  Spain,  enti- 
tled "(ill  IHas,  stolen  and  translated  into  French  I.y  a  Mr 
Lesage,  and  restored  licre  to  Si.anish  hy  a  Spaniard,"  jealous 
ot  his  honour,  and  who  does  not  jiermit  any  one  to  ridicule 
las  nation."  ^rust  not  this  Spaniard  he  sHiihtly  related  to 
the  illustrious  Chevalier  de  la  .Nhmcha?  Whether  or  iK.t 
this  he  the  case,  it  is  almost  certain  that  Lesai;e  only  com- 
piled ditierent  \yorks  already  puhlishnl  at  Madrid,  Which 
however,  does  not  ])reyent  Ciil  lUas  from  hein-i-  an  exact 
mirror  of  the  Spain  of  the  eighteenth  century /"juid  somo- 
tnuerf,  also,  of  the  nineteenth. 


104 


Aor/v.S  o/'  .1  I'lAMST. 


,„,.„^,,  ,„  fall.     All  il.i'  i.aH..'UL'rr.  wont  holoNV       I    <  "'  " 
U..olat.   .uuntry    wl.i.h   oi....u.a   nut    Ik-  .  •         •  ?^ 

a  8t..nnv  sky.     Alt^cthcT,  an.l  nmiv  c^siii'-iallv  tli    in 

.       HN^t.Zus  ainni-V,  n..e  on.  lo- on.  nM>  ..nkn,^  an. 

'rf^    :^         ;u'%.X.l(.rl.an.wl...vinUK.ov.^ 
L\lr      (.t"  Hu.  l.ous.  lorn.r.l  a  .••,,•.•1.  an.un.l  n.y  uran  I- 

;, :   :;::".'.,!;l:r;.^g:M,.r  ■,,•  ....if,  .u-  "-•■*-;;,;;;; 

otlR-r  while  my  LM-an.lniothci-  c-ontmucl.     I  was  \Mi"<.' >t 
•  I'o  1      he  favourite  of  Sally,  to  judge  by  the  stones  w  th 
?-,  .  i  lU     mv  head.     1  was  not  tiiv.1  ol  hstennig  tor 

"^t^a^^nl  tn.o  nu.ncaiousaa;...t,.es  ..O.ni. 
T,.,u.,ui  (the  elown  of  the  negroes),  and  the  1-  '»^^'>  ^J. 
anapl  Uiu,  who.c  type  represent,  our  puneluuello  ot 


nt'CITAr.^  Of  .}/)■  (ilt.WfiMnllll.li. 


105 


'llMlllilS.         Oil 

'I'll.'  iii.i^lit 
I  rciiuiiiii'il 
lllpliiU'tl    <1'*' 
iiu':      lliirli 
tlu'V  wi^liitl 
inuiiii''  MiiUy 
,  wc'ir  Inst  oil 
lly  tin-   liiilili' 
i;,oiiiiitiuii  liy 
siirnrtiiiii,  so 
.I'u.s.      Whi'ii 
liniiuliiiotlu'r 

ko  nil  till-  IH'st 

li  ;  till'  iiiirni- 
il.iit  loiisilit  ill 
ist  tlu'  lu'irroi'rt 
towiinls  tliciii 
ii  strikiiiu  iiiul 
I  iitiiiin  foimd 
vflliiiii:  oil  tlic! 
IV  in  till'  I'Vi'M- 
uysi'lt',  iiml  tlu' 
iiiil  my  fiTaiitl- 
on  tlic  lu'iirtli, 
ri'ss,  Inikfil  Ik'I' 
U'  iio_u;ro  iiirtiir- 
vviiik'  listi'iiiiig 
lit  of  N!ii>ok'oii 
ohstiiinti'ly  by- 
I  look  at  her,  in 
niillit  lio.     AVo 
I  its  l)alilii<'liiiif<, 
Mie  between  the 
I  wiirt  without 
the  stories  with 
of  listeniiii!;  for 
iitnres  of  ('online 
the  knavery  of_ 
•  punehiiiello  of 


-    -I-.      NNe   hM..,u.,i    ,.,  .SalK  ...  v.. II   ,|,af  SK.  knew  tlu, 

U.nle  o     h,.r  xA./vr.v   |,y|,.,,rt      uiM.   ...    int-.v,.    U.mI    rnu- 

f  'I'les  till  tn-,lav,  n.HJ  sfill  luakes  „„.  li,,.!  an  i..ex|MVsHi,|  , 

'•""•''•    ';.'   "II   ll.e>e  naive   jewvials  of  o„r  o!,|  ,„..l,,.,,,      r 

H ho.iM   hke  to  n.late,  in   their  |.i.t.,r.s.,,u.   lai,::.u.,.  l,,,, 

their    eN.,,i,s,t..    nri,i„ali,_v.  suM.e    ..f   thole    Cvul..    |„.||.„iH 
\\l.ose   siinpir  alM     lnii,.hil,^r  i.u.l.MJy  irncs  riirht    to  tl,,.  l„,„.t 

anil  iiu.kes  you  .hvani  ..f  nnknoun  w,.rl,U.     To  relnrn  to 
the   iveitals  uf  my    oi;n..li„uih..r.     On..   „f  n.v   tlivoiirite 

Htorieswas  that  oi  .ln|,„   1.,,..  ( 'oiiik'.,  raptain  ^.f  t .im- 

juvay  neirroes  ,,t  |,:,yu„  Sarah,  who  fiUnl  ti,..  whol..  ..f 
i.oj,isiaMa  with  li.e  reiH.rf  ,,f  his  saiiuniiiiarv  .  N|,i.,its.  He 
resist..,!  al..ne.  this  hero  „f  ,„„•  savannas, 'all  li...  ..NiM.li. 
tions  s..|,t  in  piirsiiil  nC  him.  Strani-v  riiiMoiiis  w..|v  i,, 
eireiilation  <.ii  this  siil,i,.,.t.  SoiM..|i„u.s  j,  u-,.s  a  .L.taeh- 
ment  ..»  tro„i.s  that  had  veiituiv,|  to  H...  haunt  of  this 
I'n.u-an.I,  who  disappear..,!  witlioiif  aiiv  one  JHiiitr  able  to 
di>e..v..r  any  tra.'e  ,.f  him.  Sanetiin.;  it  was  the  hunter, 
MK.se  ball  was  tlatlc-iu'd  a-aii.st  tli..  hivast  ,,f  hras  Caioi'. 
WH.s..  skill  was  rendeiv.liiiv.iliu.rabk.  I.y  ...,,,ai,.  he,.bs  w  th' 
yh.eh  Ih.  r.ibb...!  ,t  The  ne-ro..s  ass..,-t..,!  ,l,,t  his  l,„.k 
hiseinated.and  tliat  lie  fed  on  h.i.na.i  Ik'sh.     II..  was  tiinllv 

«;ipfnivd,i,i„l_,.,„„l,.„„i..,|  tol...  hi.iiir  ii,   the 's,, liar..-. 1 

Hte  .!,..  .Spanish  ('a.lu..lnd.      I|,  ],„,    |,,,,„  ^,„'^„.,^,„,   J,' 
terrible  s.-u.-vy,  and    tl...  iiifi.,.tii,,.  ...bMirs  exhaled   bv   his 
eo.-p...  two  h..,.,s  ;,fr,.,-  his  ,.xee„ti..„  iiu.l..  il,,.)..  b..,Vhin, 
n.nt..ary  t..  tlu.   law  that  eondenuu-d   hini   f.,  .•..,„ain   s,.s- 
pc.de.    to  the  ,irall..wK  tor  two  <h.ys.     Son...ti.,u.s  Sallv  in- 
e.T.ipted   the  .,a.Tat.veof  ...y  ^r,,„uI.nother  to  ex,..vise  u 
/onib,,  oi  wlueh,  she  sai.l,  she  felt  the  impniv  br..ath  on 
Jie.    laee.      \N  c  i.i  .Towed  o.ir  eirele,  shivering-  with  fri-dit 
arouiul  n.v  piiidmotlu.r,  who,  aft..r  erossin.-  lu'i-self  and' 
^eol.liiiir  Sally,  took  ,.p  h..,-  sto.-y  whe.v  she  ha<l  left  u\X 
1  will  not  repeat  the  lonj?  Herie.s  of  inisfort,i,i,.,s  .,„.!  of 

in.'  Vh'''?  ■■•.!'' •''■'''•■^'  VV''  *'"""^^'  sii,.,.,nnbed  at  the 
time  ot  the  te.T.b  e  ins.u-.vetio..  of  St.  Doniiiii.,,.  It  would 
be  too  l„„ir,  and  besi.les  is  only  the  history  of  tho.se  of  all 

heeoloinstst.t  St.  Don.in-o  towa.-ds  theek.se  of  the  last  cvn- 

.  f  t-l^'.t    ^'  •';''^;"H"*""l^'^^l'V';  the  Count  de  Brusle,  irove.-.ied 
at  tiut  epoch  the  quarter  ol  XYiq  petite  riviere.    UU  family  \Na.s 


106 


NOTES  OP  A  PI  AX  1ST 


it 


,uit,.nillv  ono  of  the  first  against  w  umi  the  han  Is  ^f  B     J^O" 
wore    iiifuriat,..!.      My  great-unelos  Avrre    all    '"'^-.•^;  ';*^; 
Their  (hiu.^hters  and  wives,  fallen  n.tc  the  i-ower  ot  their 
'l^r  sla;-es,.vero  .ut  t«  death  after  1--J^  --;;{: 
-....•ted  to  the  most  uornhle   outrages.      M\   gieat-giand 
t  eres^-a  id  in  the  dress  of  an  old  nn.htttress  '  woudou 
w    eh)    h I  unrse,  and  ran,  notwithstandn.g  Ins  seventy 
V-u     to    lac-e  himself  at  tlie  hea<l  of  the  eolomal  troops 
ih  ...e    u?  was  heroically  kille.L     Mv  .n-andtnother  saved 
'self,  half  naked   and   dying   Avit(i   ^f^^^^^^l';^^'^ 
many  da vs  in  the  woods,  hehig  tinally  found  l.y  the  cap- 
du\>f  an   Kni.dish  vessel  whieli  made  sail  tor  Janmiea. 
C       any  one    ho  astonished  that  the   name  o.ay     f  bt 
iZ^iul  awakens  in   me   sond^re  memories,  ^^\^J- 
could  iH.t  help  feeling  an  indescrihahle  sentiment  ot  mela  - 
.  olv    -hen  fir  the  fi^st  time  heholding  this  hdal  land  w   h 
which  are  ;.ssociated  so  many  grievous  reco  lections  .^     Our 
dw      u^s  hurnt,  our  properties  devastate-h  onv  ^r  unes 
mnihilated.     Such  were  the  first  eilects  ot  that  war  he- 
Jw  m  two  races  who  had  only  i.i  ->"^^r  1^'r'"J^' c^t^ 
hat  implacahle  hatred  which  ^'J^'l^  "-^^''^  ,  r\'^^:^^^^^^^^^^^ 
C\ui  anv  one,  however,  he  astonished  a-    the  i^^/l^ition 
ex^rctt.l  hy  the  negroes  towards  their  old  masters?    A\  hat 
c-mse  mor^ver,  more  legitimate  than  that  ot  this  people 
;     h^ir  au'ony  rising  in  one  grand  ottbrt  to  reconcpier  their 
nlu)wie.lied"i-i^-5^^«  and  their  rank  inhmmuuty?     In 
a)S'en    latin?  at  this  distance  of  time  which    o-day  ^epij. 
r    cs  us  Vom  the  events  of  this  niemorahle  epc.ch,  tlie  work 
;^^^;^,Ltion  appears  tons  purged  from  the  stains  im- 
irinted  on  it  bv  human  passions.     It  disengages  itselt  tiom 
chdows  which  ohsciired  it;  the  blood  has  disappeared; 
0  s  ain^  ure  wiped  out ;  and  from  the  bosom,  ot  this  worb 
vhic    crumbles  iwav  rises,  sombre  and  imposing    ho  grand 
>rm  of  Toussaint  rOuverture,  the  entuisiastic  liberator  of 
r  ce  that  nb.eteen  cent.iries  of  Christianity  ha.    not  yet 
£in  aW^to  entranchise  tVom  the  yoke  c^  ^1^^%^^: 
cn-eater  i.art  of  the  colonists  emigrated  to  ^ew  Uikans 
5  V  ^-aLunother,  then  very  young  was  ot  tins  mirrd.er  ; 
\  m4t  number  also  to  Santiago  de  C  uba,  .Nhich  is  the 
oaSe  Ihat.  now,  even  in  many  parts  of  the  island  ot  Cuba, 
French  Creole  is  spoken  in  preference  to  Spanish. 


^a 


FREDERICK  DARDAROUSSA. 


107 


[s  of  T^iasson 

iiiassacrod. 
wor  (>t'  their 
o;  boon  sub- 
groat-graiid- 
.'J,(^  '  woutlou' 

\\\A  Hoveiity 
lonial  troops, 
(lotlier  saved 
f,  wnndoring 

l)y  the  cap- 
for  Jainaii-a. 

o-.ily  of  St. 
,  au(i  that  I 
('lit  of  molaii- 
tal  hind  with 
ic'tions?     Our 
our  fortunoa 
that  war  hc- 
)t'twoeu  them 
for  the  other. 
lie  retaliation 
isters?    What 
of  this  people 
jconquer  their 
iimanity  t     In 
li  to-day  i^opa- 
Kieh,  the  work 
the  stains  ira- 
tros  itself  from 
's  disappeared; 
1  of  this  world 
;ing,  the  grand 
ti(riiherator  of 
l-y  liad  not  yet 
inisories.    The 

New  Orleans 
this  number) ; 
,  whieh  is  the 
sland  of  Cuba, 
.iiish. 


St.  Thomas,  July,  IS,-;?. 

^  I  have  1)0011  hero  for  fifteen  days,  and  ouirlit  notwitlistand- 
ing  to  go  unmediately  to  Venezuehi,  wliere  J  have  been 
e.xiiectod  t„r  mx  months,  but  as  soon  as  tlio  news  of  inv 
arrival  roaohed  the  (iovornor-Cionoral  he  wrote  me  invitiiiir 
me  to  dme  with  liim      I  was  rec(mimended  to  him  by  the 

i.x-1  ivsi,Umt,  (u'lU'i-al  Keh of  the  Kepublic  of  I  Vru.    At 

tlie  ctessert  Ins  Lxoelleiiey  proposed  a  toast  in  mv hoii..in-,an(l 
expressed  the  desire  that  1  miglit  l^e  hea^rat  least  om-e 
belore  leaving  the  island.  A  subscription  list  was  (.pcnod 
at  tlie  tahir,  and  next  day  a  deputation  of  amateurs  of  the 
city  caiue  to  offer  me  fifteen  hundred  dollars  for  thive  eon- 
certs.  1  be  last  took  place  day  before yosterdav,  'la  ^farche 
de:suit,  '\alse  poeticpie,' and  the  'Banjo,' were  encored, 
liio  event  of  the  evening  was  a  gigantic  bomniet  of  ro.ses 
and  of  cape  jessamin,  tliat  two  negroes,  bcndiiiir  mider  the 
burden  eame  to  present  to  me  upon  tlie  stage  ni  the  name 

of  the  Chevalier  de  L ,  a  Genoese  gentleman,  a  dilettante 

smger,  and  besidos  possessing  also  very  uncor.inion  musieal 
erudition.  Ihe  bou(iuet  was  not  less  than  four  feet  in  cir- 
cumference. 

The  Chevalier  (le  L has  lived  in  this  island  for  many 

years,  and  has  l)uilt  a  mansion  at  tlie  loot  of  the  ^ower  of 
J^rederu'k  J5arbaroussa,on  the  summit  of  a  hill  which  over- 
looks the  harbouiNaiid  which  was  the  haunt  of  the  buccaneers 
ami  filibusters.    Frederick  Uarbaroussa,  their  chief  at  Sahit 
Iboinas,  made  of  it  a  veritable  fortress,  as  its  position  ren- 
dered It  impregnable.     I  found  still  there  the  camions  in  the 
ombrasuros,  and  some  piles  of  balls;  nothins  is  more  melan- 
cli()ly  or  speaKs  more  to  the  imairination  than  these  ruins 
and  some  old  arquebuses  on  the  wall,  and  1  j.'-knowledo-o 
that  i  could  not  help  feelii,g  a  certain  uneasiness  o„  ,icscend- 
mg  the  suliterraiioan  vaults,  dug  out  of  the  livii.o-  rock  in 
winch  they  shut  up  their  i.risoners  of  war.     Several  in- 
struments  of  torture,  ami   manv  skeletons   of  men   and 
women  in  chains  found  at  a  small  distance  below  the  soil 
winch  the  porter  of  the  villa  showed  us,  recalled  to  tlij 
imagination  the  most  sombre  ].ictures  of  the  bloodv  du- las 
^yblch  according  to  tradition   have  bore  taken   place.     I 
listened  shivoniig  at  the  recital  which  an  old  nco-ro  officer 
told  me.      He  spoke  in  a  lo\v  voice  as  if  ho  feared  that 


108 


yOTES  OF  A  PIASIST. 


n 


1 


FiMlorico  ol  Ycnhvro  mi-lit  f^till  boar  lum.  Ho  kiu'W  the 
*•■  U  m  tu-ouu^h  his  father,  who  ha.l  it  from  a.u.thc.r  ch 
.  n  w  ose-  father  had  kn.,w,i  hJarhan.ussa.  Ivery  wuehc 
^  f^uom'ed  the  na.ne  .f  Frederick  i;'-^"-'-:;.^^  ;:;;^;;:;:^ 
Lis  voice  au.l  irave  lue  a  mysterious  look  by  ^^hu■\i  ^  t  out 
doubt  he  Avish'ed  to  make  me  understand  that  the  spirit  ot 
'Verdmjo'sfdl  inhabited  the  tower. 

The  Island  of  Saint  Thomas  is  hardly  twenty-hve  miles 
hi  c-ireumferenee.     The  Danish  government,  unders  undmg 
;        yrd  the  advantage   it  -idit  draw  Irom  tlje  ^o- 
n-ai.bh-al  lu^itiou  of  this  little  island  have  made  ot  it  a 
fiv      .ort    (.win-  to  wbieh  it  has  to-day  ac-iuiiod  a    -om- 
ie      im portanec  whieh  none  of  the  .large  islan-ls  ot    he 
A  t\  les  ea  1  now  dispute  with  her,-Saint  ^Fhomasis  to-dav 
l^'  "llun'e  of  the\wo  continents-the  market  m  which 
•ire  bartered  the  products  of  the  two  worlds,     bt.  -i'oimiig) 
mk  her  mal4iny;  Havana^  tobacco;  Cuba  m.d  1  orto 
Kico    sn.'-ar;  Jamaica,  rum;  Santiago,  c^ooa;  Antiocuia, 
ii  k!  Id  l>l^nd  gold ;  Venezuela,  hides.     All  these  are  b..  led 

n  va«t  warehouses,  true  chaoses,  -l'^'^'^  «\^. ^^It   .  • 
i.roducts  of  Europe,  from  the  niuslms  ot  Manchc^ta  aiui 
the  s   ks  of  Lyons,  to  the  bottles  of  Doctor  Girandeau  ot 
sSn   G^vdi:^    It   s  a  species  of  lair  to  which  twi-e  a  year 
ail  the  1  cddlersof  the  two  continents  of  Spanish  America 
r  ior      K  commerce  in  specialties  is  doubtless  unknown, 
f  ■  r  el-^rAvilv  sells  everything  here.     The  periumer  keeps 
i)low-shares,  and  sells  English  needles. 
^iXirope  hi  return  furnishe-  her  the  products  marc  or  ks 
reliable  of  her  commerce:  Nantes,  the  wmes  ot  Si.ain,  ami 

^  h  ms  of  Westphalia;  Hamburg,  ^rard  s  pumos ;  Cajhz, 
tlic  oil^  of  Aix;  Birminsham,  hardware; Fans, ch  na ci.ipes 
SI  e  Hell  Toledo  blades  etc.  etc.     St  Thomas  is  a  nava 
S^^tionof  the  greatest  importance.     I  er  l-^'t,  ^rround.. 
bvhi'di  mountains,  attbrds  a  sate  a/yl'^i  ^o  y^^^V '^  «*  '\' 
En  s'durin-  the  hurricanes  so  terrible  m  the  Antilles.     It 
t  it,   he   Kunt  of  junction  of  all  the  En^dish  and  A  niencan 

tJue,V  network  of  which  extends  from  Southampton 
tt  Sw  York  to  the  Isthrnus  of  .Panama  aiid  covers  the 

whole  of  the  coasts  of  tlie  Atlantic  and  Pacitic  us  iai  as 

^Tiifortunately,  the  yellow  fever  rages  cruelly  at  St. 


SAIXT  THOMAS. 


100 


[o  km'W  the 
another  old 
cry  li  1110  lie 
I  he  1  AViTL'd 
lirli  without 
the  spirit  of 

ty-tive  iiiilori 
ulorstuiidiiig 
oiii  the  ^w- 
uude  of  it  a 
lired  a  coiu- 
slandrt  of  the 
iiiias  is  to-day 
kct  in  which 
St.  Pondngo 
la  mid  Torto 
,;  Aiitroc'uia, 
CSC  are  stored 
found  all  the 
iiiehesti-u-  and 
Girandeau  of 
I  twi^-e  a  year 
uish  America 
less  unknown, 
L'rfunier  keeps 

ts  more  or  less 
of  Spain,  and 
[lianos;  Cadiz, 
<,  china  craiies; 
las  is  a  naval 
irt,  surrounded 

0  vessels  of  all 
e  Antilles.     It 

1  and  A  nierican 
.  Southampton 
and  covers  the 
leilie  as  far  as 

cruelly  at  St. 


Thomas.  According  to  the  ofRdal  statistics  it  carries  oft" 
more  than  one-third  of  tiic  sailors  wlio  remain  in  i)ort 
during  the  months  of  July  and  August. 

On  my  arrival  the  e]  Idemic  was  raging  in  all  its  violence. 
The  authorities  had  taken  the  scvcrt-st  measures  to  ]irevciit 
the  lioats  from  landing.  The  steamer  was  forced  to  anchor 
one  milu  out  at  sea.  The  marine  hos])ital  had  heen  trans- 
ported to  the  other  side  of  the  hay,  and  surrouiuhMl  hy  a 
sanitary  cordon  to  prevent  all  comiiiuiiication  hetweeii  "the 
town  and  the  jiort.  In  sjiite  of  all  these  precautions,  two 
days  after  our  arrival,  our  steamer  had  alreadv  lost  seven  of 
our  men  hclonging  to  the  hoat,  and  three  servants  on  lioard 
attacked  witli  the  same  plague  succumhed  in  a  few  hours. 
Another  steamer  leaving  St.  Thomas  for  Southampton  at 
the  same  iteriod  lost  during  the  voyage  twenty-ein-ht  sailors 
and  fourteen  passengers. 

.My  intention  on  arriving  Avas  to  take  inmiediatelv  the 
schooner  Isaliel,  which  started  for  A'enezuela  twice  a  month. 
I  rememhered  that  Tlerz  was  not  willing  to  venture  a  con- 
cert at  St.  Thoinas,  and  I  knew  too  well  the  great  experi- 
ence which  my  illustrious  predecessor  had  ai'4uired  in  tlie 
art  of  giving  concerts,  not  to  follow  his  example  and  'Inirn' 
St.  Thomas.  The  consignee's  ofHce  of  the  Isahel  was  ()\>i'u, 
and  r  hastened  there  and  took  my  passage.  "  The  schooner 
will  leave  in  two  days,"  the  caittain  said'to  mo.  1  ]<  w  spend 
two  days  unless  hy  visiting  the  environs  on  horsehack? 
It  is  what  I  undertook  to  do.  There  is  nothing  so  pictu- 
resque as  St.  Thomas.  Figure  to  yourself  oife  of  those 
hox-es  of  toys  in  painted  wood  from  Xuremborsr,  Avith  their 
polished  white  little  houses  with  red  roofs,  and  their  trees 
of  symmetrical  foliage.  Place  the  houses  the  one  hehind 
the  other  on  three  littl(>  hills,  throw  here  and  there  clusters 
of  palms  and  cocoanut  trees,  add  a  background  of  moun- 
tains like  sugar-loaves,  a  foreground  of  n'eat,  prettv  (Iwel- 
liiigs  cocpiettishly  stuck  here  and  there,  a  skv  like^hat  of 
Switzerland,  a  i»retty  littL  whitewashed  fort,  pierced  for  six 
guns,  enahling  the  tinted  breeches  of  six  pretty  little  green 
bronze  cannon  to  pass  out.  not  forgetting  the  big  (ioTman 
sentinel,  sleeping  or  smoking  his  pi[ie,"iu  his  seiitrv-l)ox 
and  you  Avill  understand  the  "charm  which  detained  me  lie- 
I'ore  this  agreeable  and  peaceful  scene.  I  staid  there  until 
10 


110 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


i 


the  bcnnning  of  cvcih.g.     The  night  came  on,  I  rotracod 
the  rca.l  to  town,  an<l  I  did  not  leave  m  two  days 

Fvorvtlihi"  at  St.  Thomas  wears  an  air  ot  gentdi.y  an«l 
.mod  nature  That  soothes  the  eyesight  and  the  nund  ;  espe- 
rially  in  leaving  Cuba  where  everything  seems  iii  a  state  ot 
1. '.  V      The  ne.rroes  are  free  at  St.  Tliomas.     Ihe  mulat- 
vies     .emed  to  me  remarkably  pretty-they  have  pre- 
served the  t;on<>»  (a  sort  of  turban)  ot  bright  colors.    _ 

The  tetes  at  the  Tort  de  France,  on  the  inauguration  ot 
the  statue  of  the  Empress  Josephine,  have  been  very  bril- 
linnt      For  three  davs  the  town  has  been  literally  (uerruu 
bv  iimumerable  strangers  who  have  been  attracted  trom  all 
tiic  nei.--hbouring  islands  to  witness  the  brilliant  sc.lemnitv. 
The  h«Ttels  were  not  large  enough ;  some  slejit  a  hi  Mir 
ctuilr  (that  is  in  the  open  air).     1  have  supped  witli  hve 
En.'-'ish  ofKcers,  who  had  hired  tor  the  night,  from  a  re- 
taiU-r  of  lu.uoi-s,  the  place  beneath  his  counter.     It  was 
<loubtless  impossilde   for  anybody  to   sleei)— thanks  to  a 
crowd  of  invading  colonists  with  whom  it  was  necessary  to 
dispute  inch  by  inch  the  ground.  .,.11.1 

1  had,  tired  of  the  war  from  the  hi-st  night,  abandoned 
the  field  of  battle  to  them,  and  gone  to  walk,  by  tlie  liglit 
of  the  moon,  on  the  'place'  of  the  town— an  immense 
s<iuare  bordered  with  gigantic  tamarind  trees,  in  the  imd- 
d  e  of  which  was  erected  the  statue  of  Joseplime.  1  hi=^ 
statue  is  cut  out  of  one  block  of  beautiful  white  marble. 
The  attitude  is  simple  and  noble.  The  Kmpress,  standing 
erect,  holds  in  one  hand  the  m-'dallion  of  the  Lmperor,and 
with  the  other  seems  to  indicate  a  Pomt  of  the  hon/on 
through  which  her  eyes  seek  to  pie.ye.  That  pomt  is  the 
*  Three  Islets,'  the  birth-place  of  the  .illustrious  Creole. 

The  vessels  of  the  trovernment,  the  Fulton,  Lnciter,  and 
Ardent,  sent  to  all  the  little  Antilles  to  ^f  "'.f/ '>'"'  ^7^; 
ornors,  who  had  been  invited,  have  returned  with  the  del  ai- 
tations  of  the  consul-general  and  governor  ot  Cuadaloupe, 
the  consuls-iicneral  of  Dominica,  of  Bar'iadoes,  Grenada, 
Santa  CYuz,^tc.  etc.  A  chamberhun  o  the  ^;i"J^^/^- 
mark  represente.l  all  the  Danish  Antilles.  Ihe  first  da) 
was  consecrated  bv  a  banquet  to  two  hundred  p.  rsons.  given 
bv  the  island  to  her  guests.  The  next  <lay  there  was  a 
oovia-nment  hall.     Fifteen  hundred   invitations  had  been 


Gi;axd  ro.\r/:nT. 


Ill 


n,  I  rctracod 
ays. 

jiontilily  ami 
niiiid ;  (.'spe- 
I  in  a  state  of 
The  iimlat- 
oy  Itave  pre- 
olors. 

uitiiiiiit'um  of 
L'oii  very  bril- 
rally  overrun 
icti'd  from  all 
,nt  solemnity, 
opt  (i  hi  I'clli' 
|ie(l  with  five 
lit,  from  a  re- 
nter. It  wart 
-thanks  to  a 
18  necessary  to 

ht,  ahandoned 
:,  hy  the  lijrht 
-an   inmiense 
s,  in  the  mid- 
leitlune.     This 
white  marhle. 
)ress,  standing 
!  Emperor,  and 
;)f  the  liorizon 
lat  point  is  the 
)us  ('reole. 
n,  Lueifer,  and 
rins;  their  gov- 
with  the  dejiu- 
)f  Guadaloujie, 
does,  Grenada, 
i  king  of  IX'n- 
The  first  day 
\  \n  isons,  given 
ly  there  was  a 
tiuns  hatl  heen 


10 

s- 


g  on,  that  is  to  say,  to,-  fo,„.  ho„,s  people  mished  eaeli 
other  with  a  desperation  the  more  inexpli' .ahle  as  the  t  .! 
peratuiv  liad  heroine  iiisupportal.Iy  hot.  At  supper  tlie  eii- 
husiam  reaehe,!  its  hidK.t  ,.oint:  parth-ularlv  i'ter  av...  v 
i  api.\  speecli  in  treueli,  nuKk-hvthe  Kiiirlisi.  ..•oveni,.r  ('.f 
jSauite  J  ueie.  The  seliolars  ofthe  semiuarv  ^.^v  \l 
upper  gallery,  and  at  a  sig.ml  tVnn,  the  iroverr,o,.,.f  M.ut\u. 

in  the  mid.st  ot  prolonged  applause.  Apropos  of  the  s.holais 
ot  the  seminary  I  ought  m  passing  to  feli.itate  tlum  on 
the  niaimer  m  whieh  thev  exceuted  the  'Miserere'  of 
I rovatore,  arranged  for  military  musie,  with  sole,  for  tl 
saxophone,  hy  their  ahle  I'rotessor  Don  dose  Kuix,  a  <lis 
tmguished  guitarist,  who,  after  travellini;  and  -ivin-  e.,,,- 
certs  through  all  America,  has  come  to  c^tal.lisli  hiinsc.lf  at 
^-amt  1  lerre.     ihe  ].rogrammo  announced  for  the  last  dav 

ilef?'!!?!  /''*?' Ml  V  '"'  ^''■''"  ^'y  ^'"tt.schalk.  The  consul- 
gcneial  had  cAlled  on  ine  to  contrihuto  hy  my  talent  to  the 
success  ot  the  iete,  which  so  far  had  hoen  so  hrilliant. 

1  had  aceepted  a  suhsidy  of  tweho   hundred   dollars, 
AYhich  had  heen  vote<l  to  me  hy  the  colony  for  the  expenses 
ot  a  concert  and  had  asked  the  services  of  Ma.Iam  llu<lan, 
a  distinguished  smger,  an  old  pupil  of  the  Conservatoire 
^^ho  IS  Letter  known  in  the  profession,  espoeially  at  ]5or- 
dcaux,  where  she  ohtamed  ahout  twelve  years  since  trreat 
success,  under  the  name  of  Madam  Koska.     All  the  l-ov- 
ernors  with  their  staffs  were  j.resent  at  the  concert.     In 
the  middle  o    my  piece  'the  Siege  of  Sarao„ssa,'  under  a 
till  tire  ot   chromatic   gra].e-shot   and   deadly  oetaves,   I 
hought   ot   looking  into  the  hall,  where   I  saw  the  line 
la.-ge  head  ot  an  Lnglish  major,  re<l  and  snoriuirrthe  maj.-r, 
iiot  the   head)  like  a  German   humming-toi..     You   n'av 
im:.gme   the   hlow  given   to   my  amoHr  pmnrr.     At   the 
moment  that  the  tirst  cannon  gave  the  sigiml  ti.r  the  assault 
ot  baragossa  I  hold  y  commenced  '  God"  Save  the  Queen,' 
^^  liuh  I  comhine.1  admirahly  with  '  Partant  pour  la  Svrie  •' 
iijy  hig  major  started  out  of  his  sleep  at  the  noise  of  the 
V  :'/    /   •  .^     ''^'llicose  hearer,  enchanted  with  the  n.fn.te 
conhnle  of  these  two  themes,  in    spite  of  their  opposin- 
ihythms,  recognized   his  national  air,  and,  deli-hted  a^ 


1 


112 


NOTES  OF  A  PTAMST. 


■'•  \ 


down  ui-on  licr  warm  and  prolonged  ai-plauso. 

PoSCE. 

T  l,,v,.  i,i«o.l  four  wopka  on  tlio  i.lantalioii  of  Mr.  K. 

honours  of  tlicir  c.nitbrtal.lo  Mnansion.      A\  Imt  <  "''i"'  "o 
io^^-r     those  ibur  wooks,  so  rapidly  clapscMl,  have  lo 

n  :  r  !'  •  of  nonu.d  artilt  condc.nns  me.  In  so  itudc  I  find 
h/rev  Sesai  d  c.ont-.nplatiou  fertile  sourees  ot  n.spiration. 
Th  .n  T  u  n  V  thonlhts  inwardly  all  n,v  fa.-n  ties  ai-e 
Bt  .Athene  1,  an'd  retake  their  ori.trhuil  ty  wlueh  the  niee  - 
su     ?o    net  of  s.>c-ietv,  and  the  eonstramed  tnetion  ot  men 

■1  il    rt  H;.ok»  to  tmnslato  into  its  langnage,  Imt  ot  wln.-li 
1  ,i;.t.i.,t  ro+lections.     For  mvselt,  who,  tiom  a  su  ivi^ 

choU',  the  stirring  and  noisy  existeaoe  1^'  ^^  ]^J  ^^^^^ 
nomad  virtuoso  imposes  on  me,  is  that  to  xNhidi  i  uut  c 
Z^l.t  antipathy ;  thus,  ahove  all  H.ave  on^oy^^-^  ^  "^ 


i:Sr;^irK^W  deprived  of  for  - -ny  yej^s^  the 
T  l\i-  nil  iov«  ''  not  havino-  to  "live  a  concert  —that  is  to 
J:^  n  ,  bS^obl^  i^  allxe^  hour,  to  bestow  a  certain 
nn^  tvot  (^ispirationfor  the  price  of  a  few  dollars,  but 
to  «  id  one's  self  in  the  home-life  of  the  family ;  that  is  t 
I  V  o  have  the  heart  warmed  by  the  contact  of  good  and 
"  ihble  P  UcV  Kl  to  forget  the^housand  and  one  jealous- 
?es  a  id  in  sJries  to  which  the  talented  artist  is  exposed. 


^ijt^~  j>^>'*r*=V  ■.Ut*J'C«-'-'^'=W'"* 


PONCE. 


113 


mt  I  fi^-'fravc 

a  1.1  tlioVlV 
hii'h  brougbt 


PoNCB. 

^w  of  Mr.  K. 

itality  which 
lazticla.     Hut 
stuu'tii>n,  and 
n   K.  do   the 
hat  charnrint? 
^c'd,  liave  lol't 
ite  gives  mcl 
the  thousand 
enco  to  whicli 
solitude  I  tind 
)t'  inspiration. 
■  fat'ulties  are 
kich  the  ineea- 
•ietion  of  men, 
a  I  myself.     I 
in  the  thee  of 
utiful  sunset  I 
vc'llous  things, 
;,  hut  of  which 
;,  only  the  pale 
from  a  sii-kly 
•nsity  to  meUiu- 
h  the  career  of 
lich  I  have  the 
Mijoyed  at  Pla- 
nany  years,  the 
rt" — that  is  to 
lestow  a  certain 
[ow  dollars,  hut 
lily;  that  is  to 
icf  of  good  and 
and  one  jealous- 
:  is  exposed. 


At  ria/.ne la  I  agam  mot  a  .listingnished  an.l  clever  man, 
old  Doctor  l>  whom  I  had  ahva.ly  cn.'oimtercd  in  mv 
travels,  and  wiiom  1  loved  at  lirst  sinhf  lor  his  juvenile  eii- 
tlmsiasm  tor  j.oetry,  and  his  enlii^hteiied  taste  ti.r  the  arts 
J;re(iu..ntly  some  visitors  came  from  Manat v,  Areciho,  ,„• 
Irom  some  ot  the  neighhouring  plantations."  The  Doctor 
tlien  recited  to  us  some  fragments  of  iJacine.  I  played  ,„• 
improvise.l  according  to  the  caprice  of  my  .imagination; 
Adeline  an.l  .Madam  K.  sang  a  duo. 

1  have  fonn.l  at  Donee  the  most  Hatt.-ring  and  most  h..s- 
pi  al.le  reception,    lu.ur  concerts  given  at  the  theatre  l.efore 
u  l.rilliant,  an.litory,  whose  enthusiastic  .lemonstrations  res- 
tihe.[  tiieir  great  taste  for  music,  have  more  than   iustitic.l 
m  my  eyi's,  the  reputation  that  Donee  enjoys.     The  ladies 
are  charmin,<r,  and  dress  with  the  most  retliied  taste     If  I 
Avas  still  at  that  happy  peri...l  of  seventeen  to  twenty  years 
ot  age,  when  the  brilliant  illusions  of  our  youth  .-arry  ns 
with    rapi.l    Hijrht   on    their  variegated    wi'nics,  when  one 
glan.r,  only  (jt  the  love.l  one,  one  grasp  on ly^f  the  lian.l, 
vonl.l  have  hlle.1  me  with  ecstasies,  l  .f.,  not  doubt  bu 
hat  I  should  have  tallen  .lesperately  in  love  with  many  ol' 
the  charming  cr.'atures  wh..  gra.v.l  the  raiiires  of  boxes  in 
tJi.3  theatre  at  each  one  of  my  concerts.     JJnt,  alas'  it  is 
a  long  time-thanks  to  cares   and  to  business  that"  time 
has  thrown  m  my  path-since  my  heart  has  be.'<.me  dea.l- 
ene.l,  and  feels  no  more  these  tender  emoti.ms;  so  I  am 
content  with  adinirmg,  without  desiring  more. 

St.  Pierhe. 
Tlie  last  political  events  at  T^arcelona  (La  C.Ve  fernnA 
are  ot  a  nature  to  cure  radically  all  artists  who  have  the 
insane  Idea  ..t  making  a  tour  there.     There  have  arrive.l 
here  witbm  tliese  last  few  days  a  family  of  Italian  sinu^ers, 
named   I.usati,  escapcnl  by  miracle   from    the  horrors  of 
xainme.  thanks  to  the  mtrepi.lity  of  a  captain  wh..se  small 
decked  vessel  was  able  m  the  night  to  slip  between  the 
armed  vessels  wh.ch  now  close  the  mouth  of  the  iJarcelona 
Kiyer-the  only  and  last  entrance  tlirough  wl.i.h  the  un- 
tortunate  besieged  hope  to  receive  succour.     The  .U-tails 
wlucli  we  hav.>  gathered  are  nauseatiutc ;  thev  are  .lyin.- 
of  hunger  in  the  town;  an.l  infants  and  women  are  bein" 

10*  * 


NOTES  OF  A  PIASIST. 


114 

kUlcd  in  tlio  Htroots  l.v  way  of  ynKtinu"  by  (lru..kon  Holdu  i-k 
T       A    K'     -an  ...n.ulj.an-u-a.k-.l  in  his  house  nun-ortod 
In   .-.■!■  ami  his  fau.ily  ior  a  mo„th  on  hm  ..    .by  lK;as, 
h,  t      va.l  <.r  sah.     The  Fmu-h  consnl,  homL;  so  nn- 
r,    .      as  to  oi.on  his  window,  ivcived  u  hall   n.  h  s 
h      d'r.     Ten  or  twelve  i,rete,uU«rs  tearn.j,    o  meccjs  n. 
the  midst  of  everv  exeess  of  a  hl..ody  anarchy,  the  tiag 
nJs  ot  tlu^  unha,,y.count.y.     What  "^^^^^^v  j--;^-; 
the  forei.'n  artists  who  insist  on  gonitj  to  tn  then  In.  k  n 
e  S     ni  1     repuhlies!      The   Busati  linn,  y   have  lo.md 
re  a  mr,.ti*m  worthy  of  the  sentin.ents  oi  eontratern.tv, 
h  e   ,    lthon,^h  wo  say  it,  oxists  in  the  hearts  o   all  ar  .sh. 
T  ..  r  voles  -ire  of  all  People,  the  most  hospitahle  and  tl  e 
n,^t  1     m  pt     .'iVel       W.  tirst  concert  of  the  JU.sat,  took 
^ce^  theatre.     Madan.c    liusati,  a  s<.i.rano  ./o^./o 

i^ed  to X  state  of  soprano  ,//<;/fo,  -'^--;;^  ^  J^,- 
good  style  the  eavatina  of  'Attila'  and  o  J^  '  ;^"'  ;,^;^ 
It  is  too  much  to  denumd  more  of  a  smger  vn  ho  lias  Dcui 
the  best  A  d-isa  to  Tasta  in  the  best  time  of  that  inecmi- 
"N<mn;u'    >h.denK>iselle  Busati  -;g , -^^.^;^»,   ^ 

v.,W...  What  then,  remams  to  lier .'  Iheie  rtniani 
;;.;  ttne  bU ek  e yes  tilled  with  tire,  which  are  not  a  slight 
:::i^^J^n  IbJ  all  which  she  ntiU  1-1<;;;-  --^[^j^ 
Mr  Busat;  a  baritone,  an  old  caricuto  ot  the  Itahan  ui-tii 
a^ir  Place  an<l  lmp.vssario  at  Canjcas,  has  caused 
amusement  in  the  Duo  of  El  Tureo  in  'A  tila 

An  opera  troupe  is  veiy  much  wan  ed-the  island  c 
TTVinds  it  with  might  and  main.  The  theatre  o  ht  J  icue 
Tve^  handson.c^  The  subsidy  gmnted  by  the  town  ^. 
fifteen  hundred  francs  per  month.  It  would  then  be  possi- 
b  XrC^^  who  understands  his  business,  ^Mth  some 
piUlble  siLgers,  to  make  not  a  bad  speculation  by  coming 

"^tf=ilf  ."i^Woeure  a  professor  of  tlie 
piLo^a "CnsciLtioLs  xmisiciau  w1k>  ^^l^J^^I^ 

Icconling  to  all  probabilities,  be  .hould  be  able  to  make 


ii!S**5i<>  i«itl^->»«''*"--'"' 


ken  sold'urH. 

lud  (by  iK'iiH, 
hi'iiit;  («•  i"_'- 
,  hall   ill  liif^ 

to  jiioci'H,  ill 
■liy,  till'  iVajr- 
to  awaits  all 

tlic'ir  luck  ill 
liavo  loll  IK  I 
coiitVattTiiity, 
I  of  all  artists. 
ital)k'  and  the 
c  JUisati  took 
)l)raiio  xj'i><j<iij> 
ovtTtlR'k'ss  in 
'Siuirtiniide.' 
who  has  hot'ii 
of  that  inc'oin- 
;  with  all  the 
•s  the  eavatina 
■di'  by  Verdi. 
<t  about  to  say 
There  remain 
re  not  a  slight 

as  an  artiste. 
3  Italian  Oiiera 
lis,  has  eaused 
la.' 

-the  island  de- 
re  of  Ht.  IMerre 
»y  the  town  is 
I  then  be  possi- 
less,  w  ith  some 
tiou  by  coming 

irofessor  of  the 
,V8,  on  pressing 
assure  to  him 
ler  annum,  and, 
le  able  to  make 


A  riASlST  WASTED, 


11.-) 


from  Ins  lessons  eight  to  ten  thousand  friin.-s.  A.s  a  matter 
ot  course  this  figure  could  not  be  attained  without  v.rv 
great  regularity  an. I  an  assi.luoiis  activitv.  The  expenses 
111  t  lis  rountry  in  leading  a  ivuular  life  "..ouM  not  'n.  Ik- 
yond  three  thousand  to  thirty-Hve  hundred  fnua'^s  „(.,• 
"'iiiuin  it  with  this  informati.K  some  I'arisian  journal 
could  disembarrass  me  from  the  importunities  of  a  .n.wd  of 
music-mad  fathers,  and  save  from  the  misiTics  of  tlu"  i.ro- 
tessorsh.p  at    Paris    one  of  those    innnmerabh.   I'stimabjo 

artists  whom  the  crushing  prestige  of  g.vat  stars  ,• [...uus 

to  obscurity  m  a  great  theatre,  but  wli..  takes  a-ain  hi. 
rank  m  a  more  humble  sphere,  it  woul.l  confc-r  a  irivat  favour 
on  them.  I  he  professorshin  at  St.  Pierre  is  represented  by 
Mr.  Maurice  / ,  the  able  leader  of  the  orchestra,  for- 
merly at  Amiens  and  at  Strasburg;  Sikler,  a  violiuist, 
that  the  bills  ot  las  hrst  concerts,  on  his  arrival  at  Marti- 
nKpie,  presented  to  us  as  first  violin  of  the  Kinu:  <.f  Naples- 
larnain,  n  distinguished  violoncellist,  formerly  secud' 
prize  ot  the  Conservatoire,  now  professor  (.f  the  piano  and 
organist.  ' 

You  who  know  the  ban  et  arriere-ban  of  the  pianists 
come  to  my  aid  Save  me  from  these  res,,ectable  fiithers 
adorned  with  charming  daughters  who  drum,  in  spite  of 
eommon  sense,  the  key-board  from  morinng  to  nio-lit,  and 
make  me  curse  the  day  when  I  l,rought  into  the  world  the 
'  Lanamer,' the  '  Banjo,' and  all  the  other  exotic  products 
whu-h  my  concerts  liave  brought  in  voir„e  in  America 
Every  one  makes  mo  feel  how  much  it  was  to  be  re.rrettc.l 
that  so  many  brilliant  talents  should  be  lost  for  want  <.f  •, 
good  director.  Seriously,  I  have  found  amon<j  manv  youn- 
Oreoe  girls  an  organization  such  as  more  than  oiie  good 
artiste  might  wish  for.  '^ 

I  left  .Slartini.pie  with  great  regret.  I  have  there  also 
devoted  and  too  warm  friendships,  not  to  cost  me  a  ^nvat 
deal  m  leaving  this  good  littk  island,  so  charming  i7.  its 
poverty,  and  whose  hospitality  had  almost  given  me  back 
all  the  joys  which  I  had  not  experienced  since  I  left  my 
family.  •> 

A  few  days  since  1  was  present  at  a  soiree  given  bv  Mr 
L-— -,.  one  of  the  most  opulent  Creoles.  There  w-is 
music ;  and  I  played  upon  a  marvellously  tine  piano  maim- 


no 


NOTES  or  A  I'l.W/sT. 


iiii'turc'l  I.v  luv  illustrioiiK  coiifiviv,  ll.iiri  ITiTZ ;  t.iH 
piano,  wlii.li  f^st  iiitiH'ii  tli(nisaii<l  tVaiics,  "m  a  pU'co  o\ 
luniitmv  -a  vrritahlf  rhif-<r<n(v,r  (.1'  rarisiim  iirliistry ; 
it  is  all  of  clionv,  with  iiioiildiiiirH  of  uill  l)roii/t',  (•liisillii 
liUf  a  l.i'ion  of  Kronuiit  Mfuri<r.  Unt  its  I'xtc-rior,  iK'aiitilnl 
us  it  was,  stnirk  inc  K-ss  than  its  <iiialiiii's  of  souimI,  its 
mstallino  liiiii.i.litv,  and  tl  cinality  of  its  roMn<lncss  like 
tliV  voiw  in  all  its  rciiisfrrs.  1  coniiilinunt  tlio  illustnuus 
pianist  and  nianufaftunT  on  liis  work. 

Mv  licaltli  is  piod.     I  liavt-  for  sonic  months  invarialtly 
n.ninaiMvd  all   mv  U-ttors  with  the  same  i.hrasc-  for  the 
imrpose  of  falsifvinir  tlie  ahstird  storifs  which  have  cuvu- 
lated,  and  still  circiilate,  on  my  aecoiint   since  my  illness  at 
Santia"-o  -storii's    which    the   newspapers   of  the    I  nited 
States  an<l  of  Ciiha  hasten  to  publish  with  a  .•iivat  many 
eommentaries.     I  wish  to  speak  of  my  death.      Ihis  sad 
event   took  place  at  Suntia.tr<'  three  months  airo.     I  ^vas 
.•arricd   ott"  in   three  davs  hy  a  frightful   attack  ol    Mi' 'k 
V(,mit ;  it  is  the  newsiuiper  of 'Savana  la  o'raiide   who  tells 
it;  l)Ut  the'Uevuc  do  Villa  Clara,"  without  doubt   better 
iniormed,  makes  me  succumb  to  an  aneurism  of  the  heart, 
which    I    miieh    prefer,  the   aneurism    beiiii!;  much    mo'e 
poetical  than  tlio  vomit.     1  have  written  to  these  irentle- 
iiun.  assuring  them  that  T  am  still  alive,  ancl  reiiuestmi,' 
them  to  pui.lish   my  letter  when   it   reaches  them.      1  be 
newsi.aper  '  Savana "  la    grande'   has   already  been  at  tiic 
expense  of  a  lithoiiraph   of  the  ^'(Icccasid  and  cirr  to  hi' 
r,,/rrtl,</  (,'offsrhal//;'  which  it  fiii/ishes  gratis  to  its  wih- 
soribers.     \W  what  means,  in  sueli  a  ease,  can  they  make 
im>  return  to  life?     As  to  the  '  Koamio  de  \  illii  Clara,  it 
had  alri'adv  announeed  to  its  iniiiuTons  subscribers  a  superb 
eolonred  engraving,  and  a  romance  composed  by  an  amateur 
of  the  town— the' whole  entitled  '  Funeral  homage  to  t  bo 
bar.l  ot  the  tropics.'     I  understood  what  I  owed  to  those 
who  so  much  retrretted  me,  and  consented  to  remain  dead 
for  some  davs.     I  will  not  say  anything  about  tlie  music 
of  the  funeral  romance  of  the  amati'ur  of  Villa  C'lara,  but 
the   coloured    eiiirravimr    merits,    from    its    oriixmulitv    ot 
de^i<'n  and  of  colour,  a  verv  jiarticular  notice.     1  he  subject 
of  if  is  allegorical.     The  genius  of  oitisic  sluils  tears  over  a 


n 


i:.\t,Ji'Ai/.\i.—(>\  .yy  i>f.mii. 


117 


i  Hit/.;  tais 
in  a  pu'tt'  <>t 
iiiii  iiiliistiy  ; 
m/.c,  cliisi'llcd 
rior,  iK'iiiitil'ul 
of  souikI,  its 
•(tiindiu'ss  likt' 
tliu  illustriuuti 


tlis  inviiniilily 
ilmisi'  tor  till' 
•h  liiivt-  (ircu- 
i'  iiiv  illiu'ss  at 
if  till'    I'liitt'd 
a  irri-at  iiianv 
itli'.     This  sa.l 
rt  ajit).     I  wart 
tack  of  l>li'  •!< 
iikU'"  who  tells 
t  (loiil)t  bi'ttcr 
n  of  tlu'  lifart, 
g  iinuli   iiioi'e 
)  tlii'so  ucittlo- 
aiul  iviiuc'stiiiu; 
OS  tlu'in.     The 
y  hoeii  at  the 
and  ever  to  lie 
litis  to  its  sub- 
can  they  make 
Villii  Clara,'  it 
ribers  a  sujieib 
I  by  an  ariiati'iir 
homage  to  the 
owed  to  those 
to  remain  dead 
bout  the  niusie 
V'illa  Clara,  but 
originulity   of 
L!0.    'riie  sul))eet 
icds  tears  over  a 


hriibn  hjir  inul  msls  ,i  l,l,„-l;  nil  ,,rrr  n  bust,  wliiili  the 
*  Revue  de  \'illa  Clara"  says  is  mine.  The  in  niiis  nf  mii>ic 
in  iinitfled  in  a  troiiliadipur's  robe  and  a  paler,  .m' tunic,  with 
II  most  aniiisintr  efre-i,  whi.h  iv.alls  that  (.f  the  Christ  of 
the  Cathedral  of  Ihirpis.  which  Christ,  the  sacristan   as- 

sur«Ml  me,  when  I  visited  the  cilllirh  ill  IS.VJ,  /,„.v  Ininnn, 
tlish.  iiiidhiiil  linii  J<iini(/  siriiiniii'iu/  ill  till'  riru:  Thev  tn.ik 
it  and  carrii-d  it  in  t,iiii,ij>/i  to  th'e  convent  of  llie  Kraiici^- 
eans;  /„i(  it  rscxfin/  Jhmi  (liitur,  und  eaine  to  i>liiir  H.-Jf  in 
till  httlr  rliiipi/ <,{•  the  Cathedral,  to  the  riLiht  on  (iilcnn.' 
where  you  can  still  so,,  it,  by  the  liel|.of'the  tritlii..- sum' 
ot  two  reals  which  the  sacristan  (Uinaiids  to  hliow  Vi'.ii  the 
miraculous  etHgy  of  the  Savi.Mir,  and  t..  telh  voii  "its  very 
tmlbtiil  history.  I  return  t<.  tlie  enj.raviiit;  of  the  '  Revue.' 
I  hi' genius  of  music  lias  Ids  mouth  o|peii,  an<l  ceeiiis  piv- 
l.ared  to  swallow  a  long  serpent,  which,  after  more  mature 
examination,  I  recognized  to  he  a  black  rii)bon  on  which 
are  these  words,  which  the  ireiiius  of  music  let  fall  in  the 
depths  of  his  attliction :  "  Cn/,/  Jp„/„  I,,  wini/ms  n.,i 
inviiliajf  mslolins  iirnliiitiiilnr  I  mean  to  ].reserve  the 
romance  and  llie  engraving.  Somy  iiewsjiajiers  of  the 
United  States  have  ])ersisted,  in  s]iite  of  a  letter  address.d 
by  me  to  the  Tiiited  States  Courier,'  in  believing  me  still 
very  ill.  Notwitlistandiiig  what  they  say,  I  was  iievi  r  in 
better  healtli.  ' 

I  Imve  suecooded  at  I'ort-au-Prinee  and  at  tlie  islands  of 
St.  Tliomas  and  Porto  Kieo.  I  explored  these  two  latter 
on  liorsebaek,  and  have  gone  over  them  in  every  sense.  I 
liaye  made  some  notes  on  wliat  has  appeared  to  me  inter- 
esting. 


CHAPTER  III. 


New  York,  Februnry,  1802. 

IlEnE  T  am  again,  after  an  alisenco  of  six  years,  once 
more  in  Xew  York!  Six  years  foolisldy  spent,  tlirown  to 
the  wind,  as  if  life  were  infinite,  and  youth  eternal;  six 
years,  during  wliieli  I  have  roamed  at  random  under  the 


a    >  rutin  ro,     \Mili    \\n<""    '    l     ,.  ,    ,       -i  ,•„■  ,„,  Kiivitiir 
tlu-  Spanish   Main.    , '^,!'- ;:;;!  j^   I h^i'h   Sw.-ImIu -.U 

tiv.,  six,  or  ..i;xht  '•'•;♦'''*;;;;':  ^,;''^;n.iousiv  n.soiv..i 

part-iiv  iVo.n  .lay  t..  .lav   4"'\*".    *'..;,,  .^  .vho.v'tlu.  piano 

was  still  unknown   hvtu.u-s..»^^^ 

,„vHn.^.rs  l^'''l  >'''»l'\''.-^^'*;*"\    A;     J  ./  a.-c-  Mark  cy^s, 

whi.U  v.iUMl  th.^nsclvos  wi  h  ;  ;;  ,  ;;  i,i„.^  as  the 
h..in,unji  aj^ain  nu"  ^•"- '^^^"; ,?  l^^l fe'wo..k  tlmvs,  tor- 
bii-a  sin^s,  as  the  tlowc  J*  »1,'  ';^;;'"  ^  ,,,vo.l  mv  heart 
,.tr,.l  of  the  l-:;;^;^^;;^^,  ^^rlow^rwh..  hopes  to  luvr- 
a.ul  my  purse  ^V'^^J'^^ "';;";;.  ,,,a.  um  the  tieUls  inwhieh 
vest  an  hun.lre.leais  1.  r  cNer}    ^l  si-rui.tr- 

Hoc-nt  .louhloons    are  »»"'^^^^^: '"^    V^/;^         hu  han.l- 

,,i,,n,an.l  my  heart  and  V^''''^'.^^^'    ^/Urv.     Tlu-n, 
,,roaip,lity,  one  tine  .luv  were  f  ^  V^'';^.^^^^^^^^      of  mvself, 


^n 


A  J/r>.v.s'77?ors  rnoTit. 


lll> 


iir  niy>*»'ir  to 

,,.it.>i>k  lilt' — 

ri-lfiif  r<ii>f<»t' 

'tori Ilia'   of 

,,!■    on   IfllVlMJ? 

I  ri'iuiy  yi'ii  ); 
Dies"  r*<<o<l 

utitiir,  ill  '1'"* 

isly  lirrl'i't'ti'd 
liiitr  tin.'  hotel 

1,  1  (M'ossfd  an 
r  islaritl,  oi"  oil 
o   BuiH'ortrtivcly 

,  Svv('ili-lu  i>i>'l 
loivrt  ot'  I'ani. 
>,'  to  whom  L 
iivuHtopju'd  for 
\\\ir  oil"  my  <U'- 
ioiisly  n-solvi'd 
hi'ivtlu'  i>iimo 
lou  with  which 
st  attV'-tionrt'.),  I 
i-iTi'  hlack  c'yi'S,_ 
viT   I   sjioke  of 

II  liviiiL?  art  the 
rook  Hows,  for- 
sowcd  my  hi'urt 
lio  hopes  to  har- 
jtields  in  which 
loves  of  si)riiii!;- 
)r  the  husband- 
by  this  double 

,  be  dry.  Tlicn, 
d  and  "of  myself, 
neiO,  I  hastened 
lisbed  volcano  of 
like  a  cenobite, 
t  th;'t  I  had  met 
mo,  followed  mo 


ovorywhere,  aii("  lovi'd  me  with  that  absurd  iiiid  toiiehiiiir 
constancy  wlii.li  one  onlv  mrels  with  in  do<rs  iiiid  niihl- 
nicn.  .\lv_  Trie  id,  whose  "lolly  \v„h  .piiet  ainf  inoUcnsive, 
believed  himself  to  be  the  ijimtdit  ynii'is  h,  thr  ,r,>rl>l.  He 
siitreivd,  he  sjiid,  from  a  <.n,i!;aiific  and  inonstrons  tooth  iniid 
if  was  by  this  only  that  I  reco-nized  tlmt  he  was  insniie, 
theoilKr  s;i„ii>ti>nis  heiiiir  tbiiii(l  aiiion^-  too  many  individ- 
uals to  he  considered  as  tin  ainiorinal  tinit  of  the  human 
mind)  a  monstrons  tooth  which  periodiciilly  increased, 
and  thicateiied  to  encroach  ii|i(»n  the  whole  jaw.  Tor' 
mcntcil  with  the  d.'sire  to  reu-eiicrafe  huinanitv,*he  divided 
his  time  between  the  study  of  .leiitistry,  which   he   Iciriied 

tor  the  pMi-pose  of  ( staiitly  conibatinu;  the  timtastic  pro- 

L'ress  of  his  molar,  and  a  voluminous  c(irrespoiidence  which 
he  earned  on  with  the  I'op,.,  his  hnfhn;  and  the  Kmperor 
ot  the  hiviich,  his  cousin,  in  whi<h  he  pleaded  the  interests 
(•tiiiimanity, and  called  himself  the  I'rince  of 'rhou-rht  and 
i;aise(l  me  to  the  diirnity  of  his  illustrious  friend  and  iM^ne- 
tactor.  In  the  midst  of  this  intcll-vtual  ruin  one  thin"- 
onlv  survived— his  love  for  music,  lie  plaved  upon  the 
violin,  and,  a  sin.rular  thin^-,  althouuh  insane,  lie  under- 
Htood  nothinif  of  the  music  of  the  fiiti'rel 

IVrched  upon  the  edjre  of  the  crater,  on  the  very  top  of 
tho   mountain,  my  cabin  overlooked    the  whole  (•oiintrv 
J  ho  rock  on  which  it  was   bnilt   huntr   over  a    pnvipiie 
wiioso   depths    were   conceali-d    by  cac'ti,   convolviili.   and 
bamboos.     The  one  who  had  preceded  mo  had  surroiiiKh.d 
this  lower  unround  with  a  iiara|.et,aiid  ha<l  made  of  it  a  ter- 
race, which  was  level  with  the  bedroom.     lie  had  rcpiested 
to  be  buried  there,  and  from  my  bed  uL  njirht  I  could  see 
by  tluMiioonlijjht  the  white  tombstone  at  a'few  steps  from 
my   window.     Every   evening:    I   moved  mv    piano  upon 
the    terra.-e,  and    tliere,    in    view   of  the    niost    beautiful 
scenery  in  the  world,  which  was  bathed  by  the  serene  and 
limpid  atmosphere  of  the  tropics,  I  played,  f,>r  wt/.^./f' „/,„., ., 
everythiiiiT  that  the  scene  which  opened  "before  me  insi)ired-J 
and  what  a  scene!     Fi,s,nire  to  yourself  a  tri«rantic  ami)lii- 
theatre,  sueli  as  an  army  of  Titans  mji^ht  have  carved  on; 
111  the  mounhiins;  to  the  rij^ht  and  left  vir>,'in  forests  tilled 
with  wild  and  distant  harmonies,  which  are  like  the  mar 
ofdkncc;  before  mo  twenty  leagues  of  e.juntry  whose  ma-do 


^90  NOTES  OF  A  riASIST. 

anysclf;  I  was  ^"^'^'^^  *  J  i-ri^  vl  i  gild,  all  things, 
S^ir astll^  tl'^r  nS  Lk  n|  vagabond  lit., 
strong  and  confident  ^j^^  ^^etoniB  of  these 

•It     f  a  In  t*civ  lized  and  voluptuous  race,  cannot  be 
Zfof  iLond-^coinoy,  a  Parisian  idler,  or  an  American 

^'if  ^ih'e'ckpthB  of  my  conscience  I  heard  sometimes  a 

In  the  *|4 1 "^  f>    I  >  J    ^  I  to  what  I  ought 

voice  which  recalled  inc  lo  « nat  ,  ^,>t,irn  to  a 


PREFER  POETIC  BARBARISM. 


121 


e  transpavL'ncy 
u  of  the  sky; 
niouiiiiiin,  (lo- 
,'r  on  the  tr;reon 
;ho  town;  iuul 
,  wlioso  linu  of 

.   a  torrent   of 

leai)e(l  with  a 

l;  depths  of  the 

n,'  'LaMarche 
;orella  e  Caval- 
)rks.    I  k't  n»y 
)  in  the  conteni- 
cnd,  to  whom  I 
Idish  loqiuK'ity, 
uvate  humanity ._ 
1  these  ruins  of 
r,  strikes  all  its 
J  of  that  nature 
tively,   and  my 
vards  others  and 
espair  vanished, 
g;ilds  all  things, 
y  vagahond  life, 

customs  of  these 
strietly  virtuous, 
saw  again  those 
I  hrown  hosoms, 
ithout  fearing  the 
tfuUy  innnoral,  I 
e  tropies,  in  the 
s  race,  cannot  he 
r,  or  an  American 

}ard  sometimes  a 

to  what  I  ought 

e   to   return  to  a 

rmitted  myself  to 


become  hy  the  languor — the  '_/)/r  nlcnli' — morally  1k>- 
numbed,  so  fur  that  tlie  idea  of  again  appearing  before  a 
jiolislu'd  audience  si'eiiu'd  to  me,  very  honestly,  absurd. 
For  what  gooil  V  I  said  to  myself.  And  besides  it  is  too 
late:  and  I  continued  to  live,  to  sleep,  to  awaken,  to  run 
over  the  savamias  on  horseback,  to  listen  to  the  female 
l)arrots  eoquet  in  the  guava-trees  at  sunrise,  to  the  crickets 
chirp  in  the  tit'lds  of  sugar-eane  at  night-fall,  to  smoke  my 
cigar,  to  drink  my  eottee,  to  cradle  myself  in  my  luiin- 
mock^Hnally,  to  enjoy  all  the  jileasurcs  bevoiid  which  the 
'Guogiro'  sees  only  death,  or,  what  is  still  worse,  the 
feverish  agitation  of  northern  society.  Here  is  the  secret  of 
the  atroi)hy  of  the  new  Spanish  colonies,  (lo  then  and 
talk  of  stocks,  of  credit  fonder,  of  exchange,  to  that 
sybarite,  king  of  the  savanna;  who  can  live  tlie  whole 
year  on  exquisite  bananas,  on  savory  cocoa  which  he  has 
not  had  the  trouble  to  plant ;  who  smokes  the  best  tobacco  in 
the  world ;  who  replaces  the  horse  of  yesterday  by  a  better 
chosen  in  the  first  'Caballada'  that  he  meets  with ;  who, 
clothed  with  his  linen  drawers,  sees  the  seasons  succeed 
each  other  with  a  iJerjtetual  summer;  and  who  in  the 
evening,  under  the  palm-trees,  tinds  beautifid,  dreamy 
girls  imi)atient  to  bestow  their  love  on  him — who  shall 
know  how  to  murmur  in  his  ears  these  three  words, 
eternally  beautiful,  "  Yo  te  quiero"  (I  love  thee). 

The  moralists,  I  well  know,  condemn  all  this ;  and  they 
are  right.  But  poetry  is  often  in  antagonism  with  virtue ; 
and  now  that  I  am  shivering  under  the  icy  wind  and  gray 
sky  of  the  Xorth,  that  I  hear  discussions  on  Erie,  Trairfe 
du  Ciiieu,  Harlem,  and  Cumberland,  that  I  reail  in  the 
news[tapers  the  lists  of  dead  and  wounded,  the  devastation 
of  incendiaries,  the  abductions  and  assassinations  which 
are  committed  on  both  sides  under  the  name  of  retaliation, 
I  find  myself  excusing  the  derai-savages  of  the  savannas 
who  prefer  their  poetic  barbarism  to  our  barbarous  pro- 
gress. 

Recalled  suddenly  to  real  life  by  a  great  grief,  I  wished 
to  break  all  tlie  ties  that  bound  me  to  these  six  years  that 
are  lost. 

It  was  at  this  period  that  Strakoscli  wrotr  to  mo,  offer- 
ing me  an  engagement  for  a  round  of  concerts  in  the  United 


*«*'*' 


r 


122 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 


^t..to^     I  ho^Uatcd  an  instant,  oast  a  last  ^trlan.o  at  the 
Kates,     i   nisuan-<i  «i  ,i,.,>Mni  was  Hi  isliotl — 

l.ast,travo  a  sV^rh,  an.l  si-nnl.  ^  j    r.   *;    ^sa  va-o  vcnith 
1  was  savo.1 ;  l.nt  w ho  sha     s^n  i    ^^^  ^  ^      '!;;,, f,,  are 

an<l  l-oosy  1-<V"S  "'ti.^^uv     uttcT^lS     Sh,.t  then,  up 
1,v  naturo  vagabonds;  the-)  .iu   '';  "J  "^  ^  ,,.i„j..s  are 

New  Yokk,  February  15,  18G2. 

Mv  first  oom-ert  at  Xow  York,  aftor  fs.  v«.-»  cf  aW"«. 
tJk  i.lu.o  ..„  the  o:evc.nth.    1  I'^'J"    '«;;;,  ,„^   /^ 

eiifliiiiil 

hi-h    position   which    ho   ocrnpias.       ll^^^J'^r^  •'''  \vom 

±i%r^s^tiS^^^^^ 

a^  c-  Wuo      Ilo  admires  and  n.ulerstands    he  gj-'*  ^ 
(     .u  uitheelassics);huthe  does  not  eone^ude  t.  Mn      n. 

„t  !,...«  not»l.n,|r  liW  «houl,lor«  on  l.oarmg  "  ' '  •  "^  '" 

';;,"m'„,  ,„  ,.„,„.,^.|..n, ho  i^-jjrr'uT'i  ;;•(!;:  i-vc-r-i 


MY  REAPPEAHASrE. 


123 


lliUK'o  at  the 
as  Hiislit-'tl — 
iilva.tro  youth 
11(1  vouth  aro 
Shut  them  up 
lit  wuigs  are 
{otrulato  their 
11(1  holihiess — 
icjverieiice,  a'ld 
irity  of  talent. 

,runry  15,  18G2. 
arri  of  al)senee, 
ly.     I  felt  too 
ilid  not  t(^  ho 
idienee  all  ti»o 

frieutls,  who, 
Aorth's  Uall  in 
ained  nio  and 
iirhe  de  Nuit' 
Hised.    Kic'hanl 
the  piano,  who 
kship,  had  lent 
ic  Tell'  and  my 
ave  visited  the 
lit  merits  more 
tV  eont^eientious 
lhI   and    modest 
out  etfort  at  the 

taste  and  the 
rvod  him  from 
0  instrument  of 

the  great  dead 
ic'lude  from  this 
alent.  He  does 
ho  is  eomiielled 
iiprehi'nds  Baeh, 
•iiio-  the  name  of 

a  (jciifli'inin). 
avinjr  diseovered 

niy  return  from 


Europe  in  18o3  took  i)]ace  on  the  Jlfh  of  F,f>r>iar>/,(]vc\i\ri\ 
to  postpone  my  mippt-aranee  forsonu'  (lavs  so  that  it  miulit 
take  j.lace  on  the  IJf/t  »/  FiIiviki,-;/,  i.W.'-a  niciiioralile 
eoincKK'iice  of  whieh  the  pnhlic  (whom  it  did  not  interest 
the  least  in  the  world)  was  informed  tliroiii>i'  all  tlie  news- 
papers. A  (juestiou  l»y  many  of  my  frit'iids:  "  MV-y  do 
you  snjisuch  thinfjs  in  i/oitr  aiivcrflscwrhtx.'  W/n/ ih  i/mi 
not  sfri/a'  out  surh  (tin/)(f-'"us  epithets  in  ijniw  /ifin-nn/s /"' 
Alas!  Are  you  ignorant  tluit  the  artist"  is  merchandise 
which  the  impressario  has  purchased,  tlie  value  of  whidi 
he  enhances  as  he  chooses?  You  mii-ht  as  well  reproach 
certain  ]iseudo-gold  mhie  eomi)anies  for  announciiii!;  divi- 
dends which  they  will  never  pay,  as  to  render  aif  artist 
responsil.le  for  the  lures  of  his  contractor.  A  jioor  old 
negress  heeomes,  in  the  hands  of  the  Jupiter  of  museums 
(Harnum),  the  nurse  of  AVashiugton.  Whv,  then,  do  you 
thmk  you  should  he  astonished  at  the  ma<riiificeut  titles 
wliich  are  coupled  with  my  name? 

The  artist,  once  thus  sold,  lieloiiffs  no  lontrer  to  liimself, 
hut  heeomes  the  pro])erty  of  tlie  impressario,  who  en- 
deavours as  he  sees  lit  to  heighten  his  value.  His  friends 
help  him,  and  shout  ihat  he  is  of  good  qualitv;  his  eiu'mies 
that  he  is  trumpery,  and  worth  nothinir.  Tlie  impressario 
heing  vulnerahle  only  through  the  i)Ocket,  that  i.^,  through 
the  artists  whom  he  cries  up,  it  is  u])on  the  latter  thiit  tTie 
hlows  fall ;  like  coachmen  who,  every  time  they  meet  ilie 
liorses  of  their  rivals  whom  they  hate,  strike  them  Avith 
their  wliips,  so  it  is  upon  us  that  the  critics,  who  liave 
quarrelled  with  the  impressario,  revenge  themselves. 

Thus  far  the  press  of  the  United  States  have  treated  mo 
with  great  kindness,  with  the  exception  of  two  newspaper 
writers,  one  of  wlu^m  is  an  old  minister,  who  does  not 
understand  music,  and  the  other  an  ohscure  writer,  wJio 
uses  his  iien  in  the  service  of  his  pei-sonal  antipathies.  If 
they  had  used  the  one-hundredth  part  of  the  efforts  which 
they  have  employed  to  prove  that  I  am  a  fool,  in  ac<iuiriii<r, 
the  cue  a  knowledge  of  the  art  of  which  he  pretends  to  he 
a  luminary,  and  the  other  in  correcting  one  or  two  pieces 
for  the  piano  which  he  has  puhlished,  they  miirht  have 
succee<le(l  in  arriving  at  an  honest  mediocrity,  ijisti?ad  of 
remaining  malicious  uohodies. 


124 


SOTES  OF  A  /'/.l.ViSr. 


.  •  V  >«'  York  with  the  winio  kiii<hios» ;  time 
^,,,1  ,,,t  oha.i.-i'a  the  «.M  ->  !'l  .»^  f(  ^'tractors  n.u;aiiu..l 
...tcniatlc  m-wm  <;^,;-;^.  '\j;ii;;lU;:\:i.  sounsh  littU. 
the  same.     -^"- V* ''"  "      ,;^u    i.e  ,,„„rs   cut   every  wi-ek 

i;::,:';i,  ^-";:AX:^tJ:  jm...„  ..« ..„  ..- 

,„,„,„-;g  ,„  ,1„  Nvith  '!'';.■'''",''•;, Xn'liave  just  imUUhfl, 

«i.p-  '•^'<'^'>;'''';';'?,ISrc  r".ai';y  ana  ,he  •<;:,.» 

nil  my  <-.nKvrts.  '■'"'""■,  V";  .,„.,;.,  'i  „„,,,os  of 'M"r- 
C,.-,„ll,»;  «,-o  "lYy-,-'"'  t,e5  il;  o,  ,„/ .v.;!k,.,i..n» 
inmvs  Iv^lieiis,  1  am  lea  oy J^i  i,,,„vm  thui"s.  When,  m 
,.,  ,,,.as.ire   the  emptme.^  of  h«g^^^^^^^^  j  ^^^^.^  u«ft 

1S.>^,  I  returned  to  the  *- "\tt  f  7  ,  ,nv  reimtation, 
elove;.  year,  hetbre  (at  ^^^j"  ^^  .^.i^'f^  i.IS;!  the  Atlan- 
whoUv  ran^nm,  ha<l  not,  »  '"^  ^  ^l^'-'^^j .,,,  i,^  IMciuin,  in 
tio.     'rwo  c»r  three  li^l'Hhva  eo,  ot    >,  M^^'  ^  -     ^^^^  ., 

Italy,  in  France,  ^l--;^;;^^  w  'no  '.^J  u^'lhnated  in 
name;  hut  this  na.ne,  so  :young,  ^^.-^f  '\.  J^,  ^.,,  .^  ,u,eess, 

Ameri.a.  My  ^  :::i:^^^  l:ZX.\^  of  the  expenses. 
hutthereeeii.H(luln«>ta     mn^^^^^^  ^  ^.,^^^,^^.  ^,^  ^|^^ 

The  secona,  ^J^i^^"  ^.\^?^  !*  ;  ,,r  hun  red  dollars.  The  ex- 
two  eon.-erts  1  lost  V'^^V  nie  with  that  trooa-nutured 
ocllent  Wallaee  luul  otte re     mt       it  i  t^  ^     .         ^^^^  ^^_ 

c4iestra,anailomnan,tntauim  read v  to  ohligo  me, 

whom  at  all  times  I  ^'^ve  ov  er   oun      ea  >         ^^  J^  ^^^.^ 

played  with  me  two  P^^';;'««  «  /^;^,,^^^  I^^^^  a<>llars.     It  was  a 
,,noerts  t  then  lost^twentj-four  luMiaa^^  ^^.^  ^^  ^^^ 

aeeided  failnr.     ^J^XiS  "i^?!^^  thousand  dollars 
onpi!reinenttora}tai,onuu  ^      ^^.^  prejudices 

and  my  ^'M*^^'^«%f^^'^'  ^t/vv^xom  he  ohstinately  insisted 
(,,;„.t)  aP^-t^l^^;;;:,'^^;;;^^^^  beasts,     l  refused, 

in  seeing  only  a  ^'"*    "f"V  ^ew  Orleans,  my  native  city. 
AVe  left,  my  tather  and  I,  for  ^ew  ^^  -^         ^^  that 

Mv  fellow-citizens  re^-«^^'*-^^\."f  "  *'    Kceived  the  sane- 
time  the  only  American  ar^t  who  had  vec.  ^^^^_^^^^ 

tion  of  tlu.  ^^^^^^tZ^MA.  enthusiasrn 
assistino;,  I  was  recei  ed  v^^it "i  a     ^     ^  ^  ^  I  deserved 


DEATH  OF  FATHER. 


125 


diulnoss;  tunc 
•(.rt\umti'ly,  the 
ctors  rvuiaiiu'tl 
irt  sourish  littlo 
lit  every  wi'ek 
brtuiiatcly,  has 

just  jiuljlislu'd, 
are  encored  at 
aud  the  '())'>« 
)ro/;os  of  'Mur- 
luy  rei-oUeetious 
iisxs.     When,  in 
■hU'h  T  had  left 
.  mv  reiiutation, 
ossed  the  Atlan- 
i  in  Belp;iuni,  in 
liad  givl'u  me  a 
ot  aa'liiuated  in 
k  was  a  sueeess, 
f  of  the  expenses. 
a  tiaseo;  in  the 
\oUars.     The  ex- 
liat  good-natured 
,  conduet  the  or- 
iRcientiouBpianist, 
idy  to  ohlige  me, 
)s.    In  these  two 
dollars.    It  was  a 
c  the  offer  of  an 
y  thousand  dollars 
ad  his  prejudices 
ihstinately  insisted 
beasts.     I  refused, 
ns,  my  native  city. 
ph.    I  was  at  that 
received  the  sane- 
national   self-love 
rihahle  enthusiasm 
hecause  I  deserved 
ise  I  was  first  cele- 


hrnted  in  Paris  under  the  name  of  the  'Pianiste  coni))ositeur 
Louisianais.'  From  my  birth  I  had  always  \'\\vi\  in  atHii- 
(.1, re— thanks  to  the  successful  siicculations  cnti'rcd  into  l>y 
my  tather.  Certain  of  I)eing  altle  to  rely  upon  him,  [ 
quietly  ])ermilted  myself  to  follow  those  pursuits  in  wliich 
I  anticipated  only  pleasure  aixl  enjoyment.  Poorly  pre- 
]»ared  for  the  realities  of  American  life  by  my  long  sojourn 
in  the  factitious  and  enervating  atmosphere  oi"  I'sirisian 
salons,  where  1  easily  discounted  the  success  wliicli  iny 
youth,  my  iudependeui  position,  the  education  which  1  had 
received,  and  a  certain  originality  in  the  coui])ositioMs  which 
1  had  already  iiublished,  partly  justified,  1  found  myself 
taken  unawares,  when  one  day,  constrained  by  necess'*^y 
and  the  death  of  my  father,  hastened  by  a  series  of  financial 
disasters,  I  foinid  myself  witliout  other  resources  than  my 
talents  to  enable  me  to  perform  the  sacred  duties  lH'(|ueathed 
to  me  by  him.  I  was  obliged  to  pay  his  debts,  which  my 
concerts  at  Xew  Orleans  had  already  in  part  lighti'ued  the 
weight  of,  and  to  sustain  in  I'aris  a  numerous  finiiily,  my 
mother  and  six  brothers  and  sisters.  Of  all  misery,  the 
saihlesf  is  not  that  which  betrays  itself  by  its  rags.  I'overty 
in  a  l)lack  coat,  tliat  poverty  whicli,  to  save  appearances, 
smiles,  with  death  at  the  lieart,  is  certainly  the  most 
poignant;  then  I  under.*tood  it.  Nevertheless,  my  brilliant 
success  in  Europe  was  too  recent  for  me  not  to  perceive  a 
near  and  easy  escape  from  my  sad  troubles.  I  believed 
success  still  })ossil)le.  I  then  undertook  a  tour  in  Kew 
En<>land.  At  Poston  my  first  receipts  exceeded  one  hundri'd 
dollars;  at  tlie  second  concert  I  made  forty-nine  dollars. 
I  have  not  related  that  it  was  an  hour  before  commencing 
a  concert  at  Jioston,  tliat  a  despatch  from  one  of  my  uncles 
apprised  me  that  my  father  was  in  the  pangs  of  <k'ath,  ami 
had  just  blessed  me — singular  and  touching  wandering  of 
his  great  intelligence  at  the  moment  of  liis  dissolution — in 
seven  languages,  which  he  si)oke  admirably.  1  cannot  de- 
scribe to  you  my  despair,  but  let  those  who  comprehend  it 
add  to  it  the  terrible  necessity  of  appearing  in  )(ul)lie  at 
such  a  moment.  I  might  have  \i\\\  off"  the  I'oncert,  but  the 
ex]>enses  had  been  incurred;  the  least  delay  augmented  my 
loss.  I  thought  of  those  to  whom  I  had  become  the  onl}' 
);  I  drove  back  my  despair,  and  played!     I  do  not 


prop; 


11^ 


126 


NOTES  OF  A  PI  Ay  1ST. 


"■'r:\:;:.ll;;m  "rS  E,«lan,l  (wIkto,  I  „,„  ,u,x\<.us  to 
.,.V«     o  •«  r.  iLr  I  .V.u„a  rt;e  moj;t  .nuputlK-.,.-^  m.,. 

W.ixtV,  lunuln-a  dolUu-s  in  a  -v -on  ta 

Tlu'n  it  w.L  that  I  loooived  a  letter  from  "  '^;,        IJ^/*^^^ 
Y  i.i\ia;n^ ,  >^"'  "  ,  »Ji,n  nviiortod  mo  to  return  to  1  aris, 

!"•■'?';■'!  l'''''"1tt  r,Snl-  J  ™e  to  ^mm  to  Paris,  «Vs. 


^lioutrlit  it  hirt 
known  to  tlif 
liu'L'd.     I  neoil 
lipi'iinini-o,  had 
niaUfontinuwl 
ting  the  grout 
nu   him.     An- 
igo  to  say  that 
iuy  father,  hut 
i  ot'  receiving  a 
to  (hi  with  the 
vhich  was  more 

am  anxious  to 
upathetie  reeep- 
t's.  A.  S.,  in  a 
ly  'kid  gloves;' 
ny  FreiK'h  man- 
hu'h  there  were 
ions  account,  in 
[  that  mine  was 
loise  that  I  drew 
e  it  as  it  may,  I 
hs. 

lad  heen  the  ob- 
oi-dis<tvt  musical 
lerit,  undeceived, 
my  own  eountry- 
iug  for  the  wants 
e\v  York, 
irge  sale  in  Paris, 
n  one  of  my  old 
old  Countess  de 
lady  of  honour  to 
o  return  to  Paris, 
IV  iH'int!;  soon  aii- 
withheld  through 
urn  to  Paris,  iirst 
hat  I  had  not  suc- 
lich  at  this  epoch 
,  and  which  from 


LAST  HOPE. 


127 


the  exaggerated  accoiuits  of  the  money  which  dciuiy  Li»id 
liad  made  tlu-re,  rendered  my  ill  success  njore  strikiiiir. 

I  had  composed  a  lew  pieces,  one  of  them  of  a  luclaMclinly 
character,  and  with  whicli  was  comicctcd  a  touching  epi- 
sode of  my  Journey  to  Santiago  do  Cuba,  that  soomed  to  mt; 
to  nnito  the  conditions  re(piisite  for  pojtularity.  A  pub- 
lisher purchased  it  from  me  t()r  iifty  dollars,  advisinn'  me 
to  endeavour  to  copy  the  style  of  the  pianist  (iocki'l,()f 
whom  a  certain  i)iece — how  1  do  not  know — had  just  ob- 
tained a  great  run. 

At  liist  one  day  I  played  some  of  my  compositions  to 
Mr.  Jlali,  the  pubjisher.  "Why  do  you  not  give  a  concert 
to  make  them  known V"  he  saicl  to  me.  "Ma  foi,"  1  an- 
swered him,  "it  is  a  luxury  that  my  means  no  loiiixt'r  pi-r- 
mit  me!"  "Bull!  i  will  pay  you  one  hundred  dollars  for 
a  piano  concert  oidy  at  Dodsworth's  Koomis." 

Eight  days  ufter  I  played  in  this  snmll  hall  (whoso  pro- 
portions are  such  that   1  should  never  wish  to  see  them 
exceeded,  as  they  are  those  that  make  the  i»uino  heurd  ud- 
vuntugoously  before  a  select  audience)  my  new  pieces,  '  Lo 
Banjo,'  the  '  Marche  de  Xuit,'  the  SJota  Aragonesa,'  and  '  Le 
Chant  du  Solihit.'     Its  success  surpassed  my  most  brilliant 
exi)ectations.     During  //rt>  months  I  continued,  without  in- 
terrui)tion,  a  series  of  weekly  concerts  for  the  i)iano  only, 
in  the  same  place,  without  being  forsaken  by  the  public 
favour.     'Le  Banjo'  and   'La   Marche,'   and   many  other 
l>ieces  purchased  by  Hull,  wore  jmblished  and  sold"\virh  a 
rapidity  which  left  no  doubt  as  to  the  final  result  of  Hall's 
speculation,  and  which  time  has  only  corroborated.    Every- 
body knows  of  the  enormous  edition  which  was  jaiblished 
of  'Banjo,'  and  'Marche  de  Nuit.'     I  then  concluded  a  con- 
tract which  assured  to  Hall  the  exclusive  property  in  all 
my  compositions  for  the  United  States.     As  IhUI  wished  to 
possess  my  works  anterior  to  those  which  he  had  just  pub- 
lished, and  having  faith  in  my  talent  as  a  composer,  ho 
addressed  the  publisher  of  the  melancholy  piece  of  which  I 
have   already  spoken,  for   the   purpose  of  jiurchusing  it. 
"Willingly,"  was  the  reply;  "it  does  not  sell  at  ull;  ](uy 
me  the  fifty  dollurs  which  it  bus  cost  me,  and  it  is  yours."' 
Tliis  little  ideco  wus  'Last   Hope,'  of  which   more  thun 
thirty rtive  thousand  copies  have  been  published  in  America, 


r 


^^^  j;on:s  OF  A  riAsrsT. 

„:,  ,v„u.i,  .n,  r-'"<-';y-^  -  ;!;^:*l;:';;;:;;:";rwS 

st,u..l  in  most  luva  <.t   *''^'^";   •••''uVt,„,,,,l  to-.lay  t..  NfW 

,,,, i,un.as..i  .  th  "^y ;;i:;;'^^;^,,  ^  "n m"-^*^^-"*-^'^*'^ 

York,  after  an  aljsonro  .1  mx  >  ^'.  Vovcn-c.l  luysclf  l.v  ro- 
I  have  eon-inere.!  m.l.     >  ^       ^      ;;^^..,.  ,  •„  five  lum- 

fusi.ig  all  those  wl>"  '^H'"*^  /  ,  ^,  "fi,,.  one  l.icee  only.  One 
.Ueafanother  one  thonsan.  '  '  ^  ^l^^^;,!  the  '  Last  lloi-e' 
publisher,  the  one  who  »' f'  :J  \\  ,,,,  i  have  n..  LnMulun>\ 
[a  ^et.tlen.an,  I  annst  ^Yl  '  >  n  '  Mun.uuvs  Iv.liens. 
U-ere.lnKM.neth..nsan    d     a^^^  ^^.^,^  the  thirty 

Thissun»n>aa.Mnesnii^e   m       n.n.^^^^^^_^^^ 

dollars, at  wliuji  ^u-e  I   ';^^;  «^^^^^^^^       ,.,  ,„,  to  ^ive  a  proo 
years  before.     U  1^'^'  \  ^  ^..H  1    i^  ^N-^th  ^vhonl  n»y  ."ontraet 
if  n.y  .L^ratitude  ^^  ^^ -.       V'^  ;,:^^  ,,,,  Koliens,'  'l^isto- 
had  cxi/iml.    I  «^^>;^   ;  !  ^^,Uo  '   lua  many  ..tber  i>ays 
^:^  S'urS  ^Z^n.  k  a  new  contract,  wluch  1 

was  ready  to  sign. 

Kew  York,  F.-Lninry,  1BC.J. 

.Vhat  astonishes  n.o  is  to  a^n  ii.^  New  York,  in  18.2, 
at  least  as  brilliant  as  ^yl'^^'l^^^,      ^  \    !,.  ,o  opinionate.!  an 

The  majority  ..f  ^J^''^'^"  ^  '.Jha  it  is  inlpossible,  at  a 
aoeount  of  the  events  of  ^"^  ;'*^/  '^l  ,tatc  of  the  country, 
distance,  to  form  an  exa^l-^^^^  ^^^^^^  ^,^^.  ,,,^,,^,.^,,  „,, 

For  a  year  I  ^^^^ «      tor    «"''  /"''^•"'^^  /'"•'",'"■'  ""'' 
closed;  that  the  i*;^.'''')  •:'','    /w;/.,/..;  thnt  thr1nror>j<m 


'i 


FOliEIGX  ir.SORA  \(K. 


.lu>r,artiTn  run 
.  jiiiK'unt  wliiih 
loiiiofiiiyluiirt 

Hall,  who  first 
,  iintl  t'l'oiii  that 

„ic  to  that  fain- 

rs  who,  wlu'U  I 
;ly  to  tlisfouniiic 
I'to-diiy  to  Nyw 

ii  jiosition  whiil 
>.,l  myself  hy  ro- 
\v\\  OIK'  live  hun- 
i  i.icee  only.     ^^I'c 
I  the 'Last  Hope 

liave  no  irnulsrc), 
lunuures  Kollenrt. 
t  with  the  thirty 
linniy  pieces  some 
me  t(>  iiive  a  proof 
,vhom  mv  contract 
,  K, .liens,'  M'asto- 
nanv  other  pieces, 
V  contract,  which  i 

foRK,  F.'l.rnavy,  1»C2. 
N^ow  York,  in  l^^'j^, 

the  South  in  1H.')7. 
;  so  opinionated  an 
t  18  impossihle,  at  a 
tate  of  the  country, 
hat  the  theatres  mr 
nite  fortinie.'i  are  ex- 
ur;  that  theterrori.^m 
in   r('i>at,ti<-ai}!*;    that 

near  haviivii  a  duel 
this  fact,  which  was 

bands  of  ioeemUarics 

)re  a  jnihllc  who  mint 


120 


it,^  tl  .It  1  ha.    (Ici.U.l  to  return  to  Now  ^•o,•l^    and    d 
ti.n.d.  n.y  national  pride  di.l  not  ponnit  nu-    o     h         l.'  i" 

;o?;.:;;r]i;"'^''''  ^  a.:)<now].d.e,  hLtween  ours.Iv':, 
tl      d.t    he  san.e  ti.mg  n.ysolf.     Lot  no  one  tax  n.e  w  .1 
^aM^emtion.     .1  have  stid  u  newspapc-r  in  n.v  p..,^. 

inch  a  <-orrospondent  writes  fron.  the   l-ju  cd  S.a 
th  t  the.  depm,ation  of  our  money  is  such  that  he  has       , 
a  workman  dym.i.  with  luu.uer,  otiW  a  !■  '    ;■  o,  !  d   |  ,, 
paper  to  ohtan.  a  j-iec-e  of  'hiva.!.     T'         unhe  •     ttC 
veracons  correspondents  increased   in   ,|.e    C-t  i.t      n^ 

^ar.t;  the  m,.re  fiho.d  are  jealous  <.nt'  !^,'S'   7* 
..;.7  ;.  theory  f,,t  if  is  a  Hopi,;'  ^aid  a  eeleh.-ate.    J  a  o 
'     to  n.e.     Lniortunate.lyH.r  the  a.lversari.s  o f  d      ,. 
at.cpnncipkM    lie  tluuir  ,«  far  neems  ,„,ssil.k.  wint.  v  ,• 
iK-y  may  ,Io.     The  truth,  carefully  .iftcJ  hv  tic:  or       s    f 
le.r    press     reaches    sometimes    the   people    hv     'm  ii  v 
Kloams,  whu-h  sets  them  to  thinking.      U.ie    mde i'^.  ,  Is 
that    under  such    conditions,  they  have    ..rnfi  e       > 
douds  wlneh  may  liave  ohscm-ed  .Jur  jUti       wLc  ^  .4 
vvhidijhey  have  uvaile.l  themseh J  of  as  an  i,^:,i;i  *i:i:l 

.^ofJl^S^^^^^ 

^•e,o;ners  remain  who  arc  relatively  instructed  o,   tl  e    "Z 
of  tlK,  three  or  four  of  the  greatest  nations  of  t  e  .1 

iUnanam  18.)4,  it  one  mio;ht  venture  in  the  environs  of 
St.  Louis  wi  hout  fear  of  heing  attacked  hv  th,.       .  ian< 
I  or  many,  the  country  remain?  the  same  as  it  wa      C 
U.ateauhriami  wrote 'Les  Xatehez,' an.l  saw  par  ouet     ' 

o^  the  Aleseliacebe  (Mississijipi) 

\ew  Vn.^L ''  °^'^  !"^"'*^;J  ^^''^^"^"'^  1>5«'"«^-  ^vho  resides  in 
^ew  \ork,  wrote  from  Paris  to  his  son  some  years  since 


Non:s  OF  A  riASisr. 

\'V) 

•„/  H4<.>,  \?   Uaruuni  was  not  .mc  -       .^.,,  ;,,  ,,  few 

,,,n,H  from  li'rl''''^^ ''' \   ''     ,,     t  imi'o^'^il.U- ;  l>nt  J  .lo 
i...>  ulHunl  thai  It  apiK        .; "    ;\,,,,^,„a  which  L  nm- 

""^  '»'l-''''•^%'•^■^^''' -i;    ,U  is  n     ntolli..-..t  ..lass  ^vh..  r.a.l 
not  i.i-ovc.     'llH--"  ••;•'*"  '\,  '.'"•„  not    lio  most  nmiuTous, 

„orthat  vvhu-h  A\*^^     !"    V '^  .,-„,,us  mind,  who  uhvayK 

l''-'"^*'"'"'"'"' ''"'  f  i/,  .  u-or  of  tho  West  o.ily  an 
ti.hts  for  i.poKMvss  sees  m  tlH  ,,,,,v/.v7.>..i  ..r.</r.. 

l„ro;r  „ss<>.<sn,,-Aud  m  '!  I  f.'  !^^,  u  ]' Aineri.iuo  est  un  rays 
From  'ralU.yran.U;vho  '^^  '  ^  ^''^J'^^^.  .  ..  Amcrira  is  a  rouu- 
clc  saU.s  coehons  c-t  .U-  j.  o  o^^  *^  -  ^^  ^  /immorman,  the 
trv  of  dirty  ho.i^s  a.ul  i   t^   h^-h  ^'ousc-rvatouv, 

"VAmeriHUo  >' ^'^^  ,\;i^  ,  ,  / ,f  Htcam-enpncs-'),  there  is 
(^'Amonca  was  oi.U  a  <  ^^^»J  j^  -^j^-,,  ^^.^tv spite  ui-on  the 
;..taueiui.K.,>t.uauwho  u  notH^^^ 

Americans    .»  V'^'^'^Hw   Uis  h  i.  pil  m  lH4V.vas  appomte.! 
I,  i,,,it  ^l""''r""''.^'Tro     the  « me  bench  as  Zimmerman 
i,/-l84U  to  sit  as  ^ff^  Xtf;^  Conservatoire.         . 
at  the  exhihxtum  \^[  !  'f^^  l!'"re  inn.iense  lacmu.  in  eor- 
There  is  no  .louht  th.tt  tlK  c  ai  ....prociation  ot  the 

/.-/-(X  r'/•^s  1^  "'^r   i.niA  1  usurped  phice.     The  wheels 
like  parasites  ^^lue^^  c,eeu      a-i^^U^^^  ^^^^  ^^^.^^      ,  ^o 

of  our  jjrovernmeut  ^'^^^^^^^     ^y     perhaps,  Avorship  a 
.n-ate  ui^on  the  ear  ^<>"^f    "^^^j.  .',^,i\{o  not  often  enough 

httle  too  muc-h  the  K^^^l^"  ,\f  ^.{^"  « '  thought.     Each  ot 
kill  the  fatted  calf  to  ioivst  tho  ^l^^*  ^^        ^\^,^^^^         ^tlier 

,,  think  ourse  ves  l^^^^^  -^ '^^^^^^^^^^^ 
man-an  excellent  i'^^thwmi       ^  ^own  to  our  owmi 

which  often  k>ads  "«  ^^  w^h  to  ^^ 

level  those  to  whose  level  anc  caim  „,pertain  to  all 

kults  happi^  are  n^na  u>,      ^^-^^^^Sce'L  heautiful 


f! 


y  ('(irrini  un  by 

isiii  iiskt'd  1110, 
■at  Htati'><nHMi '. 

,w  that  all  thirt 
,il.U-;  but  J  tl*» 
,1  whiili  I  niu- 

class  ^vh()  n'Utl 
iiost  nvniuTous, 
o'wvf  urt  jnstiir. 
1,1,  who  always 
to  West  only  an 
nvHlzcd  saratjcx. 
pie  ost  un  pays 
n'l-ica  is  a  foun- 
iinnncrnian,  the 
ri  C'onsorvatouv, 
Inu;  me,  because 
lines  k  vapeur" 
Kjrines"),  tliere  is 
fv  s\)ite  iqion  the 
p'laee  ti)  say  that 
rl,\vas  apliointed 
11  as  Zimmernuui 
atoire. 

use  laeunic  in  eer- 
)prei'iati()n  of  the 
1,1  we  trei'.t  them 
laoe.  The  wheels 
•s,  too  new  not  to 
jrhaps,  Avorship  a 

11,  )t  often  enough 
thought.  Each  of 
3r)  than  any  other 
rs  self-respect,  hut 

down  to  our  own 
tain.  These  little 
loy  appertain  to  all 
like  the  heautiful 
ho  hite  the  nurse's 


liiuasoi.i.  jgi 

Itreast  and  whom  the  exiiheiance  of  health  sojiictiincs  nii- 
ders  tiirhident. 

I  htiird  Ihitriioli  last  niirht  in  '.Marta.'  This  fav,.iirife 
tenor  has  still  his  pretty  voir,-,  and  lias  pr,'s,'rved,  notwitli- 
standing  the  progress  of  uii  n,i/M>i,/><,ii,/  which  annovs  him, 
the  anstocratie  elegance  which,  with  liis  tiii,>  Imir/and  his 
handsoiiie  winte  neck,  have  given  him  so  much  success  with 
the  ladies.  Notwithstanding  the  defcts  wlii,li  his  detrac- 
tors reproach  him  with,  he  is  an  artist  whom  1  admire 
above  all  singers,  who  arc  all,  for  the  most  part,  iiiicoiith.  I  le 
understands  music,  and  knows  how  to  Jiidtrf  of  a  miisha! 
work.  His  enemies  will  he  much  astoiiishe.l  to  learn  that 
ho  knows  by  heart  'Hummers  Concerto'  in  A  //»//*<,/•,  which 
he  studied  when,  (|uile  a  child,  h,-  fhouglit  of  becoming  a 
luanist,  and  which  he  still  plays  in  a'charmiiiir  manner! 
lie  knows  how  to  sing,  and  if  it  were  ii,.t  for  Jiis  fear  of 
the  i.iiblic,  which  nara.yzes  all  Ids  powers,  he  would  be 
classed  among  the  best  singers  of  the  age.  besides,  he  is 
careful  of  his  toilet,  which,  among  artists,  is  one  of  the 
rarest  (pialitics,  and  which  I  place  among  the  most  brilliant 
of  those  ].ossessed  by  Urignoli.  I  kni'w  him  in  lS4i>,  at 
Paris,  at  the  period  when,  still  tmite  yoiiiiir,  he  made  his 
(li'fjut  under  the  amorous  a'gis  of  the  beiiutifiil  Afadam  It. 


-,  the  poor  maniac, 


y\y  comi)aiiion  in  the  desert  of  M- 

has  followed  me  to  Xew  York.     He  is  wild  in  "the  midst  Of 

the  bustle  of  a   great  city.     He    is   an   excellent  man,  a 

striking  examj)le  of  the  part  which  circumstances  have  in 

the  formation  of  what  is  called  a  man  of  srcnius.     He  is  a 

great  man  spoiled.     The  stuff  was  in  him;  but  tate  had 

willed  otherwise.     T?orn  at  (iuadaloupe  of  parents,  one  of 

whom  was  a  iiegre.ss,  the  other  a  European,  his  taste  for 

music  developed  itself  at  an  early  age.     He  plaved  on  the 

violin  when  only  eight  years  old,^uld  learned  ahnie  to  i.lav 

the  piano.     lie  wrote  vei-ses,  read  Voltaire,  Rousseau,  anil 

the  philosophers,  and  had  learned  h's  alphabet  alone.    J  hit, 

unfortunately  for  him,  it  was  lieftire  1848.     Slavery  still 

existed  in  the  French  colony,  and  he  soon  learned  tlnit  the 

sphere  in  Avhidi  he  nust  move  became  more  contracted  on 

account  of  the  prejudices  of  caste,  as  soon  as  ho  endeavoured 

to  become  free. 


132 


IfOTES  or  A  PIASI'^T. 


% 


CTIAPTKR  IV. 

CnirAoo,  April  14. 
The  corps  of  C.-noml  A\  »''»'.^  ' '"' »'.  .  ,.Uv  of  Chi.aoo 
is  alnuHt  ....  u  U.v.l  with  J.akc  M'^^   •'f     '  ^^     ^  ',,1^  „,•  ^i,, 
,„o„t  live  yours  a,,...     1"  '-'  'I^Vi;)    ''  I  .      'l'       vholc  of 

Milwaukee  (State  of  WiBConsin),  April  15,  18G2. 

I  havo^u.t  seen,  -v^^  ^1^  J);:  i:I;;;;;;^Ai:w^^^n;^ 

troplo-t-«'eT-h^\^    aV  ^^^^  the  Day.'     Tlu« 

na-iua-koe;  ui  i.ngli"n,     >^'^^  iw.,.amo  celct rated  by 

eluof,  who  conmmncea  the  ^^^^^'.^^^^^Jf,  ''  (si^ee  thi. 
his  au.luc-ity,  his  astuteness,  and  his  <^  ^^^ '  ^  ^.  3^1^,,,,^- 
was  written,  the  Sioux  have  f  J"-?^  ^  ^\^^/^  [  ^u^^^i  of  the 

shot,  and  forty  of  their  chiets  hung.     Hit  tiopi  y 


LXIilAX  /lAXXKR. 


laa 


irAoo,  April  14. 
V  lust  i'V(>liili,i:. 
itv  111"  Clii'iifi'** 

1(1  Wllrt    tl(M'<K'il 

('  viirds  of  tlio 
'I'Ir.  Avholt'  of 
t'crt.     This  has 
niK'hiiK'H  which 
ithotit  shiikiii^ 
luTtiiios  ttf  nine 
iX  storii'S  hiiih, 
hahitiiiits  heiiijj; 
ill    loiiviiiu;  thi' 
tivin  the  level  of 
a  dozen.     The 
her  stori'hoiises 
Liid  -five  nnUion 
liehiiran  will  he 
iim  vessels  laden 
ir  the  seaeoast. 

n),  April  15,  1P62. 

)  of  a  tinman,  a 
or  of  Ma-na-wau- 
the  Day.'     ThiH 
,ic   celehrated  h^' 
L'lty.     (Hint'O  this 
State  of  Minne- 
i  hundred  of  the 
of  a  warrior  who 
i?^»,  ovd    ci(/ht(cn 
•  lieinL'shave  hecn 
Che  trophy  I  have 


spoken  (>f  is  a  loiiir  hoK-,  tenninuted  hy  u  little  rinjr,  which 
iiialxTs  it  rcr-fiiildcii  hiittfi'tly  lief ;  over  flici'iiiLr  is  >tri'tilir(l, 
like  a  tandiniu'iiie,  the  skin  of  the  neck,  td'  the  heml  i.il 
till- scalh,  in  liiet— of  another  eliiit'  ulmMi  Ma-nu-waii-na- 
nia-kee  killed  in  hattli'.  The  hair  of  tliK  vanipiishrd,  vcrv 
loMir.  and  Mack  as  a  <'rn\v,  liiinti'  from  the  rintr  over  the 
jMilc  like  the  Tnrki-*h  standards.  The  wind,  Hhakinir  these 
ionir  locks,  caMM'd  the  hundreds  of  rinirs  of  c(i|i|icr  and  sil- 
ver, ami  the  eaufli'  feathers  attachi'd  to  tlu'in,  to  /)inule  in  a 
verv>inister  laaniier.  K\ery  rinir  indicates  an  enemy  killed 
ami  scaliied  hy  Ma-na-waii-na-iua-kee.  What  is  friirhtlul 
to  hehold,  are  the  ears,  the  nostrils,  and  the  trapin-r  holes 
of  the  eyes  on  this  human  skin,  tla,"  wrons^'  side  of  which  is 
eovered  with  red  and  hrilliant  resin,  which  adds  to  the 
liorror  of  this  hloody  spoil.  I  had  a  irreat  desire  to  pur- 
chase it,  hut  [  was  asked  ei-fhteen  hundred  francs  for  it  — 
three  hundix'tl  ami  sixtv  .iollars. 

Milwaukee  is  one  of  thono  WoMfeni  towns  of  tlie  United 
States  which,_l)orn  hut  vesterday,  an  hiiilt  as  l>y  eiicliant- 
luent.  ['riiH'ljially  pi'opled  hy  (Jerinans  (in  a  popidiition  of 
sixty  thousand  siails,  they  numher  forty-iivo  thousand),  it 
promises— thanks  to  the  industry  of  this  I'cononiicjd,  laho- 
rious,  and  industrio  is  race  ^t(l  hecomt'  one  of  the  most 
tlourishinu  depots  for  ^rain  in  the  West. 

It  already  possesses  a  Philharinoiiic  Society,  a  theatre,  a 
concert  hall,  and  a  matrinliceiit  hotel.  Do  not  fori^et  that 
we  are  one  thousand  miles  i'rom  Xew  York,  and  veT'v  close 
to  the  Indian  territories.  The  cook  of  the  hotel  is  a  Rorde- 
lais.  The  tfood  man  is  wild  w'th  Joy  since  our  arrival. 
lie  had  not  spoken  French  for  ten  vears.  Ih'  had  heard 
me,  it  appears,  on  my  passai^e  from  Jjordeaux  in  1S."»2,  and 
ahsohitely  insisted  on  triviiii--  me  a  dinner,  to  which  I  invited 
my_travellin>i;  eoinpanions— Ih-iirnoli,  the  tenor;  Susini,  the 
haritonc;  and  the  Maestro-Muzzio,  the  frieial  and  i.ujiil  of 
Verdi.  If  you  have  ever  heeii  at  Bordeaux,  you  must  have 
retained  tlie  rememhrance  that  they  know  hmvtoeat  there, 
and  that  the  rrppcs  a  r/iiiil<',inu\  the  roi/nmis  an  brtirrc  fm/.^ 
deserve  to  partake  of  the  jz:lory  of  the'  Chateau  Lalitto  aial 
Saint  Emilion.  I  must  add  that  our  ijood  IJordelais,  true 
artist  as  he  is,  made  it  a  point  of  honour,  and  I  declare  that 
the  sabnid  which  he  served  up  to  us  were  all  simply  incom- 

1a 


J 


134 


NOTES  OF  A  FIAMST. 


paral.lo.     ^Vo  have  invito.l  him  (the  i-ropriotor  cook)  .nd 
his  tiiinily  to  our  i-omvrU.  ^  -^    wM-apiug 

us  from  these  amateur.^  of  ^//Z     '  '.J,    ^^Vof  our  planet  'i 

vessels. 

April  18. 

At  one  of  the  stations,  gj.in.  ^-^^f::^^^ 
^vo  foun.1  a  convoy  of  wounded  *  ^"  /\^^   J^^  ^f/  ^,  ,,aies 
l,uv^^  Landing.     It  is  a  heart-renc^  \\'^, '  fMi-.  N  Uitingales' 
of  the  vlaee  are  nursnig  them.     Ihe    Mi     -^W      o 
multiply  here. 

April  19. 

Yesterdav  the  ice  finally  hroke  in  .^J^e  ^fj^^^l;;;!:;:^ 
Lates  Michigan  and  Hun^n,  ajul  permv^^  th^^can^ 
the  Far  West  to  return  east\Naul.       ^''^  "  V,,,.,,i 
grain  in  ahu.ulance  to  the  2sew  and  the  OH  AV  oild. 

Toledo,  April  20. 

T1.0  ,.,e  of  ^.--:™>  i:^,£;s  trs'S^:^ 

constitutes  one  ot  the  oliaiaetciisues  n 
discovered  at  every  ^^  ^':;:^  ^::L^£^o 
found  framed  placaids  in  ^  \^   ,*;j'\^,4„llers  to  visit  his 
very  cordially  ^^^'^J^^  10  30  o'Xck,!  o'clock, 
church.     {Sermons  ev  ^-y  Sund..}  at  I  J.^u  ^^^^■^^^,,  a 

and  at  7  o'clock  ..  the  ^^y^^^'f'  .^\^.': /h.'i  whose  taith 
^t  ^t^'^ll  t  ^^^-  ofWsUn  religion  is 
''  '^?  ;  t  ;t  hcMnTno  d<mht  ahout  the  conversion  ot  any 
r  ^-homt  lak^to  his  ehurch.  It  i.  a  certam  conquest, 
and  he  has  saved  his  iriend. 


MUSICAL  TASTE. 


185 


or  cook)  '.nd 

hile  boraphig 
lat  I  must  be 
.  a  gnitlcwn 
)  shall  delivor 
species  iiiuUi- 
11  r  planet 'i 
■ln!?an,  which 
rmcT  has  8\v«il- 
,  forty  or  fifty 


April  18. 

ago  to  Toledo, 

;  battle-  -ritts- 

All  the  ladies 

^  Nightingales' 

April  19. 

strait  between 
:he  steamers  of 
West  furnishes 
L  World. 

Toledo,  April  20. 

iselytisin,  which 
of  Americans,  is 
At  the  hotel  we 
erend  So-and-So 
ers  to  visit  his 
'elock,  1  o'clock, 
)  an  American  a 
iend  whose  faith 
i  own  religion  is 
inversion  of  any 
certain  contiuest, 


Hamilton,  Cftiiada,  April  23. 

English  soldiers,  jointed  dolls  all  of  a  ]iieco,  vi-iy  neat, 
but  biutalized  by  tlio  diseijiline  and  religious  worship 
which  the  so-ealled  liberal  education  inculcates  on  each 
Englishman  for  the  hierarchy  and  the  ticfitious  suiieriority 
of  name  and  money. 

The  taste  for  music  is  not  well  developed.  Aji  otKcer 
very  candidly  said  to  me  after  the  concert  tbat  the  ].i(.i.le 
were  not  satisfied.  I  oug  it  to  liave  played  themes  from 
tlie  operas  of  'La  Sonnambula,' '  La  Lucia'— hi  short,  a 
London  repertory;  "  that  is,"  said  he,  "some  true  music."' 
"You  should  have  played  some  themes  without  ornament." 
Let  us  never  listen  to  the  ]iublic.  We  should  hang  our- 
selves in  despair.  At  St.  Louis,  the  wife  of  a  judge  said 
to  mo  that  I  was  deficient  in  charm ;  that  my  "music  was 
too  learned  (I  had  just  played  a  transcrii^tirn  oi  the 
'Miserere');  that  I  ought  to  play  national  airs— 'Yankee 
Doodle,' '  Hail  Columbia,'  '  Dixie's  Land,'  etc.  At  Havana, 
Count  O'Reilley  discwered  that  I  j.layed  too  loud.  At 
Xew  York,  II said  that  I  played  too  soft. 

April  24. 

Composed  a  serenade  for  Simpson,  on  the  words  of  a 
friend  of  Pond's. 

April  26. 

In  the  car  I  met  Monseigneur  the  Bishop  of  Chicago 
(Homan  Catholic),  who  was  on  his  way  to  ]S''ew  ^'ork  to 
embark  for  Europe.  Mdlle.  Patti  had  already  been  to  see 
him  to  obtain  the  setting  at  liberty  of  her  brother  Carlito, 
whose  name  appeared  iii  a  list  of  prisoners  from  the  South. 
The  bisliop  lives  in  a  beautiful  building  that  overlooks  the 
lake. 

Toledo. 

We  took  a  carriage  ride  at  Toledo  with  M ,  Carlotta 

Patti,  and  a  young  German,  a  music-seller.  I  gave  him  a 
i-Wav.  At  the  moment  I  was  least  expecting  it,  he  was 
taken  with  nausea,  and,  ex  abnqjio,  he  un  nsciously  be- 
sprinkled me. 


186 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 


I 


April  27. 


At  a  station  on  my  journey  back  to  New  York,  a^c^owd 
eo^i.tin,  of  -•--^'  VJ»;^'^^;,  t  Abe  Arrival  of  the 
iuan,inuu>unung,avat      '^^^^^  ^^.^       ,^       th  bis 

tnun.  1^}-' ^'^^  ^5  ;^^  ^XCintvUecl  us  tbat  bo  was 
bauakeirbu-  .  ^^^^/'X  ;  k  lied  in  tbe  last  battle  (1  Ut.- 
tbe  fatber  of  a  yo"ng  othc      KU  ^  ^^,,,^  ,,..i,  .^bout 

lur,  Lauaing;),  wboso  ;.;-  A  .^^  /^\,,as. '  Tbe  cofbn  wdl 

to  be  reeeive.  by  1"? J.'^"Hyj,n U  ^'^'»''  ^^'^^^^  *^^*?  T^''^''' 
not  arrive  tbis  ^^'^^""^^';  ,,^  i^,^,,ui,ea  tbe  bour  of  tbe  con- 
stoicism  of  bis  race,  co^  y  ^V^  ^^^^  ^^^,^,  ^ub  bis  bttlo 
ductor,and,wbenoui  t  a      lur,  ^.^.^^^_     j^^  ^i,^. 

eonn.auy  di-l'l--r  bebuvl  a  tii     ^^^  ^^^^^^^^    ^.  ^  ^,  ^ty 

back-round  ^'^''^V^''?']^^^^^^^^^  to  be  all  in  a  .tate  ot 

little  village, ^vboseudutascun^^^^^^     ^  .^  ^^ 

ovpitcmcnt.     \Vbat  a  sati  ^niio  1       ,„.„„_»     T  never  sb  all 

bis  grief. 

'""'  ^;;;rfoT;lo%!:tt  U  ^ X  a  vmngo,notwW,»t.„a- 

been  found  asleep  wlule  ^"i\ ,^"\^,\i^r  ^in.ost  a  youtb,  nor 
,,,,,     N-tber  t^.e  ag^^^^^^  tbe  .judges 

his  good  coiiduet  antmori),  ^^  p  ^.^^.^t  w»«  "^^''''"'^'^ 
He  was  condemned  to  eatb.  {^'^^^  ^^,,,i,^bie  cbarac^er 
of  it,  and,  taking  "^^^  "^^'^^^^^VmSl^^ti    sent  a  telegrapluc 

Bt.  Louis  is  tbe  caintal^-uri  -d^^iuB^W 
two  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,    n 


April  27. 

ork,  a  crowd 
portiilAe  old 
vrrival  of  the 
ycrt  with  bis 
that  ho  was 
hattle  (I'itts- 
ul  was  about 
Mio  cottin  will 
1  the  singular 
jr  of  the"  con- 
witb  his  little 
roa(b     lu  the 
ics  of  a  pretty 
all  in  a  state  of 
he  sky  is  blue, 
I  never  shall 
trembling  lips 
iceakd  from  us 


•urney  of  seven- 
!  a  very  pretty 
3,  uotwitlistaud- 

s,  Avho  appeared 
fore. 

he  Army  of  the 
rtial  for  having 
imple  was  neees- 
lost  a  youth,  nor 
2nee  the  judges. 
>nt  was  uiformed 
ichable  character 
icnt  a  telegraphic 
m  that,  in  virtue 
I. 

May,  1862. 
nd  contains  about 
is  a  dull  aud  tiro- 


SAIXT  LOUIS. 


137 


some  town.  Like  all  American  cities  of  French  or  S]»anish 
origin,  it  is  comjtoscd  of  heterogeneous  clcnu'iits  wliicli 
have  not  yet  amalgamated.  Society  is  (livi([e<l  into  sefia- 
rate  clicpies.  The  Catholics  (old  'French  Creoles  from 
Louisiana),  who,  as  I  have  already  said,  at  the  end  of  the 
last  century,  went  up  the  Mi.s»is,sippi,  and  Ibunded  St. 
Louis,  are  in  the  majority,  and  are  so  much  the  more 
fervent,  as  tiie  Episcopalians  (Anglo-Saxons),  also  very 
numerous,  are  animated  with  the  spirit  of  i>roselytisni,an'd 
make  a  bitter  war  on  tlieni,  which  the  others  return  with 
interest.  The  Cierinans  (they  are  numerous  here,  as  through- 
out the  West)  have  organized  a  Philharmonic  Society,  which 
perforins  the  works  of  Beethoven,  Mendelssohn,  Schumann, 
and  Wagner.  I  was  introduced  to  an  old  (Jerman  musi- 
cian, with  uncombed  hair,  bushy  beard,  in  constitution  like 
a  bear,  in  disjiositiou  the  ameiiify  of  a  boar  at  bay  to  a  pack 
of  hounds,  I  know  this  tyi)e  ;  it  is  found  evei-ywhere.  It 
should  be  time  that  many  great  unknown  nmsi<"ians  should 
be  convinced  that  a  tiegligent  toilet  is  the  niii/ui/roit  imita- 
tion of  the  surly  and  misanthropic  behaviour  of  the  great 
symphonist  of  JJoiui,  that  it  does  not  constitute  a  sufficient 
title  to  tni'rit  the  admiration  and  respect  of  their  contem- 
poraries. Besides,  soap  is  not  hicomi>atible  with  genius; 
and  it  is  now  proved  that  the  daily  use  of  a  coml)  does  not 
exercise  any  injurious  influence  on  the  lobes  of  the  brain. 

My  concerts  are  not  very  profitable.  AVe  are  in  I'assion 
Week  ;  and  neither  the  Episcopalians  nor  the  Catholics  go 
to  concerts  in  the  second  half  of  Lent. 

St.  Louis  is  not  a  handsome  city,  so  mucii  is  lacking. 
The  streets  are  badly  paved, and  its  buildings  are  irregular; 
but  it  possesses  an  interest  for  me,  which  none  of  tlie 
sumptuous  new  cities  of  our  continent  inspire  me  with.  It 
recalls  to  me  Xew  Orleans,  The  names,  even  of  the  old 
fanulies,  are  familiar  to  my  ears.  Indeed,  a  great  mmiber 
of  the  old  French  inhabitants  of  Louisiana  ascended  the 
river  and  took  up  their  residence  at  St,  Louis,  I  oven  see  that 
the  city  was  founded  by  an  old  Louisianian,  I  too  often 
have  present  in  my  mehiory  one  of  those  stu[iid  remarks 
of  Trollope  in  his  book  on  the  United  States.  Thus,  when 
he  speaks  of  Baltimore,  which  he  loves,  he  found  in  it  an 
English  air,  and  drank  there  excellent  Madeira ;  but  never- 

12* 


c 


I 

t. 


188 


yOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 


I  nn 

thelcB.  let  mc  bo  V-^-^^^l^^J^Z.  Oiu'^icX 
a  suc-ies  of  relaxation  tiom  J  »-"*;.>     |  ^i,,  B.,  at  Nvliose 
1  Ave,  thank,  to  n.y  -^|;-^i'^;::^:i,.aity,  and  ^vUose 
house  I  ahvavH  ^''^\;  ..^^'^'^  n\e  the  doinestu- hearth 
laiuily  eirele  ahvays  ^'^^  f '«,  ^^^.^^^^^^^^^^^  of  Father  Kyan.    Ihe 
1  have  been  to  mass  attht  ^";";        , ,         ^^.\^y  of  men's 
JL  rather  gave  n.e  1^;;-^^;,^^ tn  Uu-h,  to  my  a.- 
voices,  NvUliout  any  ^-^^     1';     "',;!;  ,,,iontly  to  ^vlsh  to 

hononr  to  Goa.     ^\  ^^^^^^.^^^  ii  m^^  ^^^^ 
thonohts.     When  «H^^ ''\""  '' of  Gocl'i     That  Nvlueh  is 
and  through  the  nose  is  ^"1?,"^*^^^^^^^^      (iod.     ^Vbat  tor- 
un^vorthy  of  our  ears,  ^^      }^  "^o  have  ears  to  hear  the 
tare  is  it  not  tor  the  t"\^'V^  '''£.,!  lower  than  the  organ 
Ihole  of  the  (io^^f^;^  l^^,^,r^\y   oonnnences   c.n- 
aeeomi>animentl     The    l'^^^  ^^^^^i,!  /    In  spite  ot   the 
rectly,  hut  lowers  l^^\^.  \^' ^^  w..note,  he  soon  passes  to  a 
organist,  who  gives      ";*^.^^^{i^aeseend  into  the  cellar  it 
lower  one,  and  uisensiblj^  v  ouiu  u^ 

tl.o  litnnv  did  not  finish  m  time.  .   ,    ^y^^atl 

'^"m    give  to  God  the  r-rogat^^^;^^^?;^,^^:^?  kng  false 
.hall  we'in  our  c-onoens  sing    ust  ami  tri,    ^^.^^^  ^^^^^ 

and  badly  to  God?    V^'^^I-^^^tt^i^^^^^^^        Bhock  me, 
or  theatrical  exin-essionsnth^thur     ,^^^^^^^  ^ 

-i  S^J  So^S^^-lJ  language  in  pulpit  elo- 
^"Sced  in  the  choir  of  the  church  a  tablet  with  this  in- 
scription-       ,,  ^^^^,        j^  ,„y  ae  France.  1818." 

St.  Louis,  lob^. 


% 


CiyciXXATI. 


139 


St.  Loni^»  Is 
(!)  in  wliit'li 
15.,  at  wlioso 
,  and  whoso 
L'  hoartli. 
i-Kyan.    The 
trio  t)f  intni  s 
L'h,  to  my  aft- 
y  to  ^visll  to 
mu  into  iiult*- 
liove,  reached 
honour  to  any 

ic  mass  invari 
.  Vcoy  1     Mu^i*-' 
.,\  to  do  more 
0  perfume  the 
to  sing  falsely 
That  whieh  is 
:ia.     AVhat  tor- 
jira  to  hear  the 
than  the  organ 
■onnnences   cor- 
;u  spite  of  the 
soon  passes  to  a 
xito  the  cellar  it 


musicl  Wliatl 
,e,  and  sing  false 
not  wish  trilling 
diich  shook  me, 
lan  I  would  per- 
re  in  pulpH  ^lo- 

hlet  with  this  in- 


L8. 


St.  Louis,  1862, 

General  Ilalleck, 
de  a  speech, 


He 


announco<l,  in  the  midst  of  an  entlmsiasm  inipos,sil)le  to 
dest-rilte,  the  cajitnrc  of  tlie  island  and  the  fort  wliich  for 
thiee  weeks  resisted  che  ilotilla  of  Commodore  Foote  and 
tliuarmy  of  General  I'ope.  We  liavo  taken  five  thousand 
prisoners,  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  cannons  of  large 
calil)re,  ten  thousand  guns,  three  generals,  etc.,  and  at  the 
same  time  the  bloody  battle  of  Corinth  took  place,  twenty 
thousand  dead  and  Mounded — a  sad  victory!  and  even 
sterile,  since  IJeauregard  has  re-entered  without  molestation 
into  his  entrenchments  at  Corinth  where  he  is  pi-otected  by 
formidable  works  uul  an  army  of  one  hundred  thousand 
men. 

Last  Sunday  at  St.  Louis  they  oxi)ected,at  six  o'clock  in 
the  evening,  the  first  arrival  of  the  wounded  from  Pittsbun' 
Landing  (Corinth).  Besides  the  ordinary  liospitals,  they 
have  converted  two  or  three  of  the  most  beautiful  buildiutis 
in  the  city  into  hos2)itals  for  the  same  purjiosc. 

At  C!ineinnati  1  saw  a  superb  library  and  lecture  hall  of 
tlu"  Young  Men's  Mercantile  Association.     There  are  three 

hundred    thousand   volumes — all    the   French    classics I 

found  there  '  lo  Xord,'  the  'Gazette  d'Augsburg,'  the 
'Charivari,'  'Figaro,'  all  the  illustrated  ])apers  oi'  Furope, 
aiid  iill  the  great  newspajiers  of  the  world.  The  expenses 
of  this  establishment  are  thirty-seven  thousand  dollars  per 
annum,  which  is  defrayed  by  an  annual  contribution  of 
three  dollars  from  each  of  the  members.  I  saw  there  a 
superb  bust  in  white  marble  by  our  great  sculptor,  Hiram 
Powers. 

Tlie  commerce  of  Cincinnati  is  principally  confined  to 
lard  and  hams.  Three  or  four  millions  of  hams  are  for- 
warded from  this,  the  largest  city  of  Ohio,  to  every  part  of 
America.  I  have  visited  the  principal  slaughter-house, 
and  manufactory  of  hams.  An  ingenious  and  gigantic 
steam  machine  seizes  the  poor  aninials,  kills  theni, "scalds 
them,  cuts  them  up,  cleans  them,  washes  and  salts  them. 
All  this  is  done  without  solution  of  continuity,  and  if  you 
have  the  patience  to  go  and  watch  the  othtT  end  of  the 
machine  you  will  see  them  come  out  of  it  in  the  form  of  a 
ham,  ready  to  be  eaten,  from  the  poor  innocent  jiig  who 
entered  full  of  confidence  the  other  side  of  the  machine. 
Kiiie  hundred  hogs  are  thus  dispatched  daily  ! 


,it 


140 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 


i- 


May  25. 

Tl.o  nowH  roceivoa  yostorday,  Sunday,  of  tlio  .U'tVat  ..f 
B-mt    .     iXm  has  arousofl  the  inttriotic  cnthusu.sn. 
whkai    L  nmidly  Huc-eoedu.-  victories  ot   tlio   last   t^^o 

!;;;l;;i;:;,/',^;:;i:.r],;u,,.''::r  .lia-^^'a  -on.  «eve„  o.w 

.     1,      1,„L. ,  1  nioiv.    Tlu'V  fair  tlmt  the  0.titi*racy, 

Ar.i^lnno-ton  There  was  a  not  yesterday  in  isainuiuiL. 
^"' ^laewiLd  to  hang  a  ma..  -^-  -1;--^^^^ 
sioniit  sentiments.     An  imposing  toree  ot  i-oheo  guaid  the 

^'llid  husiness  for  me,  who  ought  t^  give  a  ..noert  there 
•  :  I..,- .  T  verv  well  understand  how  to  till  the  iiali , 
E,t  iUs  la,  eovll^  I  ™Iia  l-c  to  ,nn.,unoe  tlu>t  I  would 

!  I'  ■  i  ^.,,,,1'  III  tlio  til'*  I  iiitcixalatu  '^aiikio  Uio- 
,  :•'  I .  .  itu 'Col  iilli' >.'  The  »e«„„l  i.  a  S.utliciii  iicgm 
t,  ;;;•  wliicli  tlie  Co,itl..U.,atc,  .ince  .  ,o  <-o.;..»;;;-      ^ 

V^'  T'i'nal  "S  .".""-»  of-  Bl;:-.Kar,rinvariablv 

5  S£^i5^^b^o--^-^?- 
fl  «:Jt  t  thotml  I  might  he  the  fir»t  one  choked. 

May  26. 

Super!)  concert  at  the  Academy  in  P\"J»*^#^";.  ^  J,;;,*; 


parts  are  hvirniiig  to  meet 


I 


JOURNEY  TO  WASIIjyaiOX. 


141 


May  25. 

10  (U'f-ilt   of 
oiithusiasin, 

10  last   two 
[c(l  Hcrciiitv. 

exc'lii>ivfly 

that  motro- 

ini!;t()n.      It 

Seven  otlici' 

['ew  (lays  ten 
Uoiit'ederacy, 

ircliina;  ui'^*^ 
1  Baltiuiore. 
)rcssed  seces- 
icL'  guard  the 

concert  there 
fill  the  hall ; 
that  I  would 
i-ariations   on 
Yankee  Doo- 
)ntheni  negro 
menei'nient  of 
I  the  musie  of 
,rd  invariahlv 
loint  at  which 

11  of  partisans 
me  to  hlowB. 
dollai-s.  It  is 
)iie  choked. 

May  26. 

idelphia.  The 
,r  AV'ashington 
Baltimore,"  the 
lovernnient  for 
elay  the  volun- 
ng  in  from  all 
■derates.     This 


evening  the  Avliole  of  the  generals,  majors,  Itriiradiers,  and 
coloiiels  (if  the  troops  tVonrtlie  t^tafe  of  J'ennsvTvania  liave 
received  orders  from  the  State  government  to'pnt  all  flu-r 
soldiers  under  arms  and  leave  in  tv.entv-fonr  hours.  The 
State  of  IVmisylvania  has  already  furnished  one  ]uni(i;'ed 
thousand  men,  she  will  send  froin  liere  in  four  davs  ei-lit 
thousand  more;  the  State  of  New  York  one  liumlred  thou- 
sand men. 

I  have  played  '  L'Union.'  Unheard-of  enthusiasm.  Cir- 
cumstances gave  to  it  a  real  interest  which  has  heen  the 
pretext  for  a  noisy  and  patriotic  manifi'station  on  the  part 
of  the  audience.     Kecalls,  encores,  hurrahs,  etc.  ! 

If  I  had  phiycd  it  at  IJaltimore  at  this  time  when  the 
effervescence  is  at  its  height,  I  prohahly  should  have  heen 
knocked  down. 

i:.c2. 
_  After  having  given  fifteen  concerts  in  Xew  York,  ami 
eight  in  I*hiladelphia,Ileft  for  Baltimore  and  Washintrton. 
My  impatience  greatly  increases  as  I  ap].r')ach  the  theatre 
of  war.  ^  I  desire,  al)ove  all,  to  see  the  Army  of  the  I'oto- 
mac.  The  advanced  lines  of  the  Confederates  are  hut  a  few 
miles  from  the  Federal  cajiital.  From  I'hiladeliphia  to 
Baltimore  the  route  presented  nothing  new  to  me.  It  only 
recalled  a  trip  which  I  made  in  18o(),'  from  AVashijiirton  to 
Kcw  York,  during  Avhich  myself  and  four  or  five  liundred 
other  travellers  in  the  train  were  on  the  point  of  dyinu:  of 
cold  and  hunger.  We  were  8urprise<l  hy  a  great  stoi-iu  of 
snow,  so  fiu'ious  that  in  a  few  hours  the  road  was  completely 
ohstructed.  AVe  remained  stationary  the  whole  ni<,dit. 
Our  provision  of  wood  and  coal  was  exliausted ;  our  food 
also.  The  cold  hecame  insupportahle;  the  morning  found 
us  literally  buried  mider  the  snow,  masses  of  which  were 
piled  up  above  the  dooi's  of  the  cars.  Our  positi(»n  was  no 
longer  tenable;  our  only  hope  was  to  see  arrive,  I  think 
from  Wilmington,  the  nearest  town,  a  snow-ploua:h,  and  a 
party  of  lahourers.  While  waiting,  hunger  matle  its  de- 
mands, children  wept,  the  women  cried"  lamentably,  the 
conductor  swore  like  cm  Irishman,  and  I  mvself  shivered 
with  cold.  All  this  made  a  frightful  tumult.  Mounted 
on  the  roof  of  a  car,  I  explored  tlie  country,  which,  as  far 


SOTES  OF  A  PIASIST. 

»- ^  Y  „   fi.w  Hies  limn>i't«n  cwifiht       ll»t 

eountry  wa.  u.tersce  ed  ^^lt^   ^^^  ^^^^^^      .   ,,.,     ,  w, 


,.ut  ..f  the  (lue^hon  tor  "«    '^  J";\V^^^^^^^^        i  saw  at  last  a 

man  in  a  hUmI,  a  H"';^'-^^'^  ;' /J'V"  ofU'le-nipln.- evobitums, 
,Uiof  ana  lu.y  arm.  I  ^^  -^^  ^^  ^  .^„,!  ,,U.n  .\M 
HO  violent  that  the  tumu  who  a  ^^^^^.^^^^ 

stopi'^-l  'i-'"^  "^'^'^^  ^.  •  T  T  m,  It  t-ike  to  avoi.l  falling  w  the 
U  the  .lireetion  ^v^^'^  ^^  ^  ^^  ;^'^^^  ^fter  having  aisap- 
holesorclit.'heshi.Men  1>  \'<^  f'^L  on  eoiaing  to  the 
pearea  twenty  tiiucs,  t^V^o;^n  at "  w  guanlian  sU-.h  My 
surfaeo  I  ^in-Ivea  almost  1   v-cn  at     |^  ^  ^^^.,,  ^,,„„.,  i 

man   gaine.l   a   T"'^;  >  ;^^\;^  tot  my  nutterings  before  a 
urrived  at  '^'^'}'''''f'''':ft'i^!l^^{.     .Vs  to  my  travelhng 

angry  'it  .mji^^^^';}!,-..^,  „„.  o^e  of  the  most  severe  that^ had 
The  wmter  ot  ISoO  ^^  aa  one  c)i  J  ^^  tj^^  ^,,,y  itselt  was 
ever  been  experience.!  m  ^„^^y  ^Xlbu.y  the  Hndson 
frozen  over.  From  ^  ^.'^  ^ii%i\c;eB%loughed  the 
was  frozen  so  hard  that  ^^•J'-*-''-*  ,  i  ft/tv-five  miles, 
river  for  the  distance  of  one  ^""^VS\.,f '  i'l  had  been 
0  ic  ni-ht,  in  returning  trom  1^^'''  V^.k.-d    v  the  ice  at  the 

^r^i^a  concert,  onr  f -un^t^XS^     ^^^^^  r"" 
falfmg  of  the  tide,  and  1  did  '^J'J'r''  ...^  i^d  taken 

Hix  o'clock  in  the  "^"."»"^>^T.^''^'yaa?,  under  ordinary 
.oven  hours  m  crossing,  wmt  ev^^y ^la^ ;   ^^.^^^^^^^^_     .^.^^^ 

■!,?t.;„f,  there  i,  -'"-^r,';^.!"  Sion  I  Jke  j.lcko,, 

of  ,-cgular..     Jff''  So- voluutoow.     W«  rcacli  tl.c 
bridge  ia  gujwea  l)j  poata  ui 


4Jb 


A/iA/'TAn/LlTY  OF  )V1A'A'A/;. 


143 


iuitiht.'    Tho 
Doks;  it  wuH 
h  the  f»iu)W, 
iiw  at  last  a 
luy  hantlkor- 
ic'fvobitionrt, 
;nur«UaM  t^lftl 
"lini,  iHiiiitiiig 
tiiUiiiji  i»»  ^li« 
luiving  (Viriai> 
ouiiiit:;  to  the 
iaii  sleth     My 
two  houi'rt  I 
rin""a  before  a 
mv  traveUing 
,-uy  they  eould, 
L>lt'  for'havhii!; 
d  hungi-y  a»i«^ 

evcrc  that  had 
;  hay  itself  was 
y    tho  Hudson 
}  plouglied  tho 
tiftv-ftvo  inilos. 
icrolhad  been 
)y  the  iee  at  the 
Sew  York  until 
,  we  had  taken 
under  onlinary 
minutes.^    The 
ter  are  of  iron; 
,  Avhieh  euts  the 
siidac^. 

The  Hun  floods 
call  to  me  those 
The  river  Dela- 
1 1  notice  pickets 
tl  line,  and  every 

AVe  reach  the 


rhosapeake,  the  width  of  whieli  is   considcnihlu   in  this 
place. 

ClIEKArKAKK. 

Crossed  in  jroin.'  to  \Vushi^^^ton  27  May,  18G2.  ^^prinu- 
tinie.     Jlealth  below  zero.       " 

RorTE  TO  WAHIIINflTON. 

I  Still  notice  pickets  of  rofjnlni-s  iit  every  station  ;  at 
every  hrancli  of  tiie  road,  and  at  evt-rv  bridirt,.  ]  j|,st  have 
again  a  proof  of  that  incessant  activity  of  nnnd  wliirli 
torments  the  Vaiikiv'.  We  have  in  our  "car  manv  individ- 
uals whom,  by  their  apjicarance,  [  ji>(l<;e  to  lie  Western 
fanners.  Uur  train  stops  to  await  the  one  froju  W'ash-no;- 
ton;  one  of  the  tiirmers  has  profited  by  it  to  uet  out.  "l 
see  him  from  heio  walking  in  a  field  aiomrsidt'tlie  road; 
lie  has  dug  with  bis  heel  a  little  liole,  and  he  is  about  to 
study  the  nature  of  the  ground.  Xo  doubt  if  he  finds  it 
rich  he  \yill  think  nothing  of  ([uitting  his  farm  in  the  West 
to  establish  another  in  these  latitudes. 

The  a(l(ipf<il)illt>i  of  the  Yaidvee  is  wonderful.  IFe  is 
ready  to  set  his  hand  to  anything;  to  settle  himself  down 
anywhere  if  he  sees  the  least  el'iance  of  success.  J  lis  im- 
perturbable coniidenco  in  himself,  an  indomitable  fund  of 
energy,  and  we  must  also  say  a  greediness  for  gain,  wiiicli 
too  often  extinguishes  every  other  feeling,  explains  his 
facility  in  adaptiiig  himself  to  all  the  circumstant-es  of  life. 
My  music  [lublisher.  Hall,  was  first  a  lawyer;  afterwards, 
by  turn,  a  dealer  in  furniture,  maimfacturerJ.:'  guitars,  nmsie 
imblisher,  piano  manufacturer,  member  of  ('oiiirress,  sena- 
tor of  the  State  of  Xew  York,  general  of  miliria,  and  to- 
day he  is  to  be  found  in  his  nuisic  shop,  busy  at  work, 
making  bargains,  ajid  selling  my  compo>  itions.  '  \  ouu'bt  to 
add  that  through  all  these  mimerous  changes  lie  has  nierited 
the  esteem  of  his  fellow-citizens  by  tlie  incm-ruptible  honesty 
of  his  dealings  and  the  uprightness  of  his  mind, 

I.x  THE  Caks  ooino  to  Washinoton,  May  27. 

Scarcely  was  the  proclamation  of  the  President  ].nblished 
(ni  which  he  »  .lis  for  reinforcements  to  defend  Washinirton 
in  ease  the  Confederates  take  the  offensive),  than  at  once  all 


jl 


144 


SOTKS  OF  A  PIAMf^T. 


% 


I 


♦I      .oM-uT.  of  the  NortluTH  Stutort  are  on  loot.    In  tw-nty- 
iinny  alifixlN  .mi.  mu.   >  .    .v.civo  from  t  a-  National 

Vnt  .vstaurant  .l.i.l.  --l;-^  ^.i^:"  l.e  1  il  .Ina-o  lor 
.,orvant  couus  to  hand  to  carl,  tuiv  ny  •  (^,„^,^in.^  At 
tlu.  .lav,  ^vl.•u•h  is,  »u/  /-,  NHTV  varu.     an  I  tuni-      .^ 

U.   tlu'  theatre  ol   war,  \!'    /;    '^f,,     ;^  r.f  i.rmulh,.u- f.^ul 
have  lornu.l  asso.u.tion.  tor    '  '     .'^^  J  ^,.,,.,.     i„  the 

"''t'"  •  11   •.  to  ^iiv  that  those  sncc-onrs  are  si.ontuncouft 

J  v:,;:;;;l'r--nt  sov„ ,„.  ,.■..■■„.«  .1. .....u-y 

■i;;-::;^';fi:;:;'!i:i.»"«^^v'i:S;i:';;"^;:'i;:::'^ 

,l,„t  .Iresso.!  tl.0,  wo,m.  s  ,.t  ''' h  "„'•":,',.,.,,, „,,1  that 

„,,  laborious  1>-U,«;u.n  .h.    no      ■'    ,™^,*;;,^,,i,     ,„,U  „f 
1    "Mr  thns,  one  day,  the  oujui  y  / 

-ii  '"-r"i!-\?t,  '''tit'ii;::'.;  s  'r '.•„«.,>■  .0  a,v 

3  o  clock  1  .  Ai.    .^^'/'       .  .  :^^  irt  the  liith 

sto,im,g  to  let  a  tram  o    solduas    uss  n._,.j^  .^^^^    ^^ 

Volunteer  Kegiment  ot  >e\\  i*  i^  ...thu^iastic  cheers 
AVashln^ton.  They  V^^'^j^'^'^f  .^^^^^i,;  '  !.  :  ,n  express.' 
with  ns,  and  are  ont  ot  ^'^-^^^^jJ  "  *\\\V  ,arl  with  glasses 
The  restaurant  hoys  l-ass  thi<mg  '^  «  DocUedly, 
filled  with  lemonade,  '^?,  ^'^J^^t^,,  ^uAA.  At 
these  \aakees  are  ^^>^,  "^"V. /^  ^^^f ,^;  i  I^^^^^^^^^^    comtort  of  the 

Bleeiun-cars,in  whi     ,tor  ,„attres8  and  pillows, 

hcd  IS  i.reparcl  loi  ^'»"',^y;''     '     .  j^  them  to  give  every 
The  ears  are  so  arranged  as  to  tnuuic  & 


1 


S/STKliS  OF  Till':  VISITATIOy. 


Uf) 


Til  t\v<^iity- 

'it'  J'\(U'nil 

;  with  tlio 
.e  Natioiml 

might   ho 

or  nil  oxcfl- 
lu  train.     A 
I  of  t'aro  lor 
iipiinu;.     At 
I    the   route 
DM    the   way 
IT  iri'Mtleiniii 
ovidini;'  t'ootl 
ijori.     In  the 
^eu  two  biii»- 
fty  thoiiwvntl 

.  spontunoous 
the  ordinary 

nurses,  and  1 
white  hands 
^,  Avouuded  at 
retrretted  that 
>  least  hope  of 
.ehing  earos  of 

lilwav  we  are 
t  is  the  Fii'th 
lory   a-oing   to 
iisiastu-   I'heei-ft 
ig  'an  exjiress.' 
i-ri  with  glasses 
e.      Deeidedly, 
thewoild.    At 
comfort  of  the 
,  a  magnitieeut 
ess  and  pillows. 
..  to  give  every 


family  tlio  nunilur  of  h.ds  't  desires.  As  soon  as  dnv 
diiwns,  llicy  are  ni-aiii  convi'rted  into  ordinary  ciirs.  '|"h\. 
iiie<liiinisni  hy  wliich  thi'  heds  are  made  is  most  ingenious, 
and  dues  honour  to  the  invenlivi'  sjiirit  of  the  Anierieans. 


CTIAPTER  V. 


WAHiiiNnTON,  Mny  30. 

I  WAS  prcsont  at  the  reliearsal  of  aconeert  wliich  U  to  take 
platv  at  il.o  ^'onventof  the  Sisters  of  the  Visitation, (hn-iu"- 
a  tair  for  the  poor.  Tlie  convent,  wliich  tlie  I.adv  Siipi-ricM- 
invited  me  to  visit,  comprises  a  small  jiark,  a  nionasterv 
lor  the  professc'd  sister-i,  u  concert  hull,  magniticcnt  halls 
tor  study,  and  for  the  recreation  of  the  scholars,  larire  gar- 
dens, a  heautiful  collection  of  philosophical  instriinienrs, 
and  spacious  dormitories  wliich  hold  one  hundred  heds. 

The  young  girls  who  at  this  time  are  receiving  their  edu- 
cation  here  are  nearly  all  from  the  South,  and  nianv  of  them 
have  not  heard  from  their  relatives  for  lu-arlv  a'\far.     A 

charity  school  and  an   asylum  f(,r  the  p •  "are 'attach -d 

to  the  convent.  The  kind  reception  which  these  -rood 
sisters  gave  me  prevents  me  from  expressiui;  mv  opmion 
on  their  music,  under  pain  of  heing  horrihlv  un<--rateful  it 
may  suffice  for  you  to  know  that  the  only  professor  of 
music  m  the  convent  is  an  Eix/lish  ,s/a/c/-,  seveiitv  vears  old 
who  teaches  the  harp,  the  piano  (I  was  ahoiit^o  sav  the 
harpsichord),  and  singing,  and  whose  compositions  consti- 
tute the  whole  repertory  of  the  pupils.     One  of  the  i.tipils 

the  daughter  of  General  B ,  who  has  taken  Xew  Orleans' 

and  occuj.ies  it  at  this  moment,  has  made  in  mv  honour  an 
incursion  into  profane  musip  hy  playing  for  iiumh  a  storm  v 
manner  '  I  Orage'  hy  Lacomhe  and  the  liuitasiu  of  Asdier 
on  •  Lucrezia.' 

Two.  hundred  most  charming  young  girls  are  itresent  at 
this  preparatory  rehearsal.  Some  of'  them  who  had  l.ccn 
to  my  concerts   knew  me.     I   had   requested    the   J.ady 


SOTICS  OF  -t  riASl^T. 
s!!..nor  not  to  a.k  n.  ^^^^^^y;XJ^^^  :^  '::^,tZZ 
,,|Vort,lmt  son,,  two  ot  »'»•/;;;  ^{       ,,,o.l„.r.l  t\n'ux- 

'"''  ^'\''''  ■       il...  1  ...Iv  SuLiM-ior  i.tvHcuti-d  nu"  in  »!,*•  nan,*;  of 

;:;;;:;;':;;^w';^;.ny'«^.u;' »;..!  ^'^^ «... «,....  w,,.,, 

workctl  thi',11.  *.,.,„  fliroo  milofl  from  Waf*l>- 

^n7c.,v,  iK  nothing  n,oro  l'';;*"^^'^*    f;,, , "t     U,,t.ll  to  tho 

.onu.uunty  by  Kin^' ^  '»   ^^^^^  ho,,,,  wagous  tilU-.l 

Ti,i't  ii  convoy  ot  vdK'l  |)Usoncrrt  '^      .  j.  v„lnnttT,-i* 

"   th  wonn.k'a.     This  at't.rnoon  a  ^f  "'^''Vp  •,;  ,'y„ne.,,t 

.o,n  Khoao  Tslan.l  Ijas   "Yltl^:^!  mn  *an.l      s  a,.;;v..v.l, 

r^;-r;i;u^:rir;y  ti::fis:^:i,  a,th 

wore  tive  hundred  milca  oft. 

WASIimOTON. 

The.  wa.  at  ^Vashington  a  y^^^f'ti^t:^'"^ 
tidi-itat.ur,  and  proiossor  ot  the  P^'^"  '•  p,,st-,di-ita- 

lu.-mHV,ng,  he  took  to  ^'Y^^l'^^.^/i;,  ,  Tre  ln,beUished 
tour.  nU  exhibitions  ot  ^l^'^^^f  ^ij;  ^  ho  nan,e  he  has 
^vith  l.iat,o  forte  ^^''^''!''''-7^  1^^  (of  I'almer  he 

It  is  asserted  H  at  ^i^»^'  ™/.,,i'-     The  first  two  w,ll 
rihnan  for  next  w Miter,  as  also  Ristmi.  ^^^^^^^^^^  ^^^^^^^^^ 


wotsi>i:it  iti hUEiis. 


147 


r  my  joiiruoy 

I    slllti'l't^'toUrt 

,1(1,  fiilliiiu'  t" 
odiuvd  tlicin- 
IllT''    '' 1 

,s  ot'chiinniMiT 

:,  of  in  iH-iiu-m- 

Hn'nTrt  whuh 

ort  tVoiu  Wrtnh- 
^  till'  roinitry. 
ho  chupc'l  tlii-y 

llVSC'lltltl  to  till' 

inti  llu'  t'ity  ^v*• 
o  wairous  tilli'ti 
it  r)i"\(tlnntt'iTf< 
'Pliis  rf;j:'uiH'iit 
ul  hiis  iiiiswi'ivd, 
,  althongli  they 

\A\  iiiiijXlor,  pi't'«- 
Hi'rt  lessons  not 
uoso  jtrestidiiiitii- 
are  enibellished 
he  name  ho  lias 
n  (of  l*almer  lie 
■st,  many  persons 
Cliasse,'  while  he 
idin. 

i  are  ensjaged  in 
The  tirst  two  will 
•onjr  donhts  ah»»nt 
phia,  and  r>oston, 
n  is  uniiitelliu;il)lo, 
q\\  as  the  tragedies 


ot  Ahieri  (,r  ol  |',.|li,..,  inp  „„  andieii.,.  ,,f  l,o,i..s»  V„n- 
k.rs.  hop,.  IJistnri  niiiy  not  1...  disippuint..!.  The  .iie- 
eesH  ..f  Karhrl  m  (he  TniLd  States  must  nnt  h,.  cnnsj.hTe.l 
as  ev,.U.,„v  ot  the  taste  of  tlie  AnierL^ans  lor  foiviirn  a.tors. 
Ivaelul  had  a  nanie  eonseerated  hy  a  seri.s  of  tiiuniphH 
w.thoiit  exampl..  for  tn-eMty-liv,  yrars.  Ih,.  nan,..  L\ 
l.ienrd  thee-ivHopeot  in.liti;.r,M.e  t,.  foreiirn  art  \vlii,h  is 
peei.liar  to  Amenrans  Upsides,  overyhodv  iindi'rstands,  or 
ougl.t  to  uh.h  rstaiMl,  Fn.n.h,  whilst  the  Italian,  whi.h  is 
not  a  .ommer.ial  lan,Lriia-e,--  and  for  manv  An.eri.ans  it  is 
ot  no  use  except  as  it  serves  to  sean  the  nulodhs  in  the 
o|.erasot  Mellmi  and  V..rdi,  -  is  only  n  h.nirnaire  ,1.  hnr 
an(  IS  , lot  spoken.  Kx.vpt  '  lo  tamo/ whi.h  is  proxvrl.ial 
1  douht  It  anionir  <.ne  Innidred  thousand  persons  out  of 
iNew  ^ork  one  hundred  i,,v  to  he  found  who  can  lui.ler- 
Htand  one  phrase  of  what  Madame  Kistori  is  prei^ared  to 
givo  tlieni.  '     ' 

E.V  lidl-TK   Flill   rilll,Alil:i.riMA. 

Midni.irht  ^rav  m.  The  hattalion  of  a  r,.uiment  whi.-l, 
was  111  the  last  hattle  is  just  enterintr  the  station,  covered 
witli  dust;  some  wounded  otiicersare  supported.  Wc  have 
Jiist  taken  up  at  a  station  manv  wounded  and  sick  Tliev 
are  generallv  young  otlhvrs  l)elon^n„sr  to  ri<-h  .Northern 
tamilies.  I  have  never  in  my  life  seen  a  more  lieart-rend- 
nig  siiTJit  than  the  spectacle  of  these  heroic  victims  of  oi.r 
monstrous  war.  A  y,.un,t;  otti.-er  whose  features,  naturally 
liandsome,  are  disutfured  hy  wastinj;,  enters  t)io  car,  sui.- 
porte(  hy  two  soldiers,  sweafiuij  from  fever  and  shiverin-r 
not\yitlistandinjr  the  temperature  of  dune;  he  is  carried 
to  Ins  car.  lie  is  a  livin-  skeleton.  I  have  since  learned 
that  the  Imrstiuirot  a  ]»om])  shattered  liis  thh^h.  A  convoy 
ot  wounded  went  thron,u-h  the  town  vesterday.  The  hos- 
I'ltals  hemg  full  they  were  sent  to  the  naval  aiWnal.  Tliev 
were  so  teehle  that  many  of  them  ha<l  to  rest  frequently  on 
the  road.  Jhey  were  escorted  hy  an  immense  crowd  of 
ehildren,  women,  ami  citizens,  all  anxious  to  .rive  them 
marks  of  synii.athy.  1'he  street  hoys  offered  duriii"-  their 
passage  to  carry  their  knai.sacks  and  arms  for  them" 

Ihe  Opera  House  (Academy  of  Music)  at  I'hila.leli.hia 
IS  certainly  one  of  the    most  beautiful  in  the  world      It 


h 


NOTES  OF  A  PIASIST. 

four  chori.tpr.  all  ^^   'uc  .n^kIc  .liploiuatic  corps  at  my 
At  Washington  I  Uaut«^NK  .^^  ^^^^  ftrst  row. 

concert.    They  were  aUl^^^^^^^^^^  Ih. 

of  orchestra  ^^tallB^Count  ^^^^   ^^ .     .^^^.i^^a  poet,  Sinimsh 

Minister  •,  Baron  »  ?,f^^  ?•?;  Bc;^  -^        Italian  Minister. 

Belgian  Minister;  ^  If  f^'f ,  f ,  ^  !i.>t  c  fantasia,  in  winch 
fwas  to  play  th«    Union    a  laa^^^^^^  .^^.^.^^     .^i,,  ^lea 

I  have  i'^torcalated  the  Amencai    1       ^^^^^^    entlemen  hy 

oanic  into  my  mind  to   ahite  eacu  ^^^^^^^      ^^^^^.^    j^, 

laying  to  him  the  •^a^^iona    ^ir  oi  .  ^,^  „f      ,  p^ece, 

.ev.resented.     Tins  f^^^f  ^^JI  V)dn^  as  I  have  told  you 

cn\ar.in.  the  f  ^  f^h  %1  ^"'^^^^^^^^^^ 

'  The  Union.'    I  hii'l  the  P'^'  J  "^^        ^.  ^^  -^^g  appeared  '  Par- 

comitenances  ^l^^n^^^rSai^l  M  '  Garibaldi's  Hymn, 
taut  ponr  la  Sync,     La  Ma^^^^^^^^^^^^^  ^.^..^m  Hymn, 

'God  save  the  Czar.  _  ^/^J^^'^TtU^^^^ 
I  was  satisfied  by  playtn.J,  ^^n hG  mon  lloi.'     Mr.  Blon- 
la  Syrie,'  ^^^^^'^l,^^:^  about  saying  the  mm- 
del,  the  mmister  f^V^'^'^^J,^^  ,,,1^,  i^i,  mansion  the  rendez- 
,trel-whose  taste  ^9^  ^^t  i^ndcj^  ^^       .^^^,       fon.u    my 

vous  of  all  the  art^^s  ^  ^AoA  me  with  some  beau- 
SrS,wSn^-atosettomusic. 

LINCOLN.    • 

rresident  Lincoln  is  the  ^^^  ^^^^^ 
West.    lliB  character  answers  l^tlitto^ta  ^^.^ 

they  have  in  Eu^  '^^  f^wld/arms  excessively  long, 
back  l^o"^^  1^^%^^'^\  f  i^'^^^^^^^^^^  that  long  frame 

his   crane-hke  K^«'  ^^'-^^XX  h^"^  ^^^^  ^PP'^''^"^' 
whose  •lH^^'^l^^^^;;^'^^i{re£^^^^^^  of  him  something 

a  grapevine  covered  ^y^l^S  ^ould  .strike   us  in  a  dis- 
g,fotesciue  and  stra,_ige  -■  ^^  .^^^^.^^^^^ ,]     expres- 

^.reeable  "^'^f  ^f^.^^om   5uig  of  honesty  in  his  counte- 
sion  of  goodness  and  somcuiui-, 


i: 


LIXCOLX. 


149 


rod  persons, 
j-A  Favorita,' 
i)ristcvs,  aiul 
(jiveu.  Tho 
,tion  I 

I  corps  at  my 
he  first  rows 
linister;  Hw 
)oet,  Spanish 
Mr.  Blondel, 

II  Minister, 
isia,  in  which 
,rs.     The  idea 
gentlemen  hy 
itry  which  he 
n  of  my  piece, 
lave  told  yovi, 
11  these  official 
iippeared  '  Par- 
ihaldi's  Hymn, 
Jclijian  Hymn, 
)'rartant  pour 
oi.'     Mr.  Blon- 
^aying  the  min- 
ion tiie  rendez- 
rton,  foimd  my 
v'ith  some  beau- 


imerican  of  the 
,  the  idea  which 
Tall,  thin,  his 
xcessively  long, 
iiat    long  frame 
le  appearance  ol 
[■  him  something 
tke   us  in  a  dis- 
head,  the  cxpros- 
ty  in  his  counte- 


nance, did  not  attract,  and  cause  Ins  exterior  to  be  tor- 
gotten. 

Lincoln  is  eloquent  in  his  own  way.  He  can  speak  a 
long  time  and  utter  no  idle  words.  How  many  great  pub- 
lic Orators  would  be  embarrassed  to  do  as  nuicli !  Ho  pos- 
sesses the  three  qualities  which  arc  required  in  our  jioindar 
government — an  •'i{tfi:cil)lc'Jirnuic.',:%  an  hicorrn/itih/f  hnntsfi/^ 
and  ^(w(/ m*.sr,  which  make  him  find  the  natural  lolution 
of  (questions  tlie  most  difficult  in  ajipearance.  Ib-illiant 
eloquence,  without  good  sense  and  honesty,  is  not  only 
dangi-rous,  but  also  of  pernicious  infiuence.  Lincoln  is 
essentially  good  and  benevolent.  Ho  loves  to  tell  jokes, 
and  does  it  with  a  humour  which  is  always  very  comical, 
but  the  salt  is  not  always  the  pnirst  Affir,  if  all  the  stories 
are  authentic  which  are  attributed  to  him. 

Jnn.}  3. 

Gave  a  concert  alone  at  Worcester  (Massachusetts).  Ih-ig- 
noli,  Amodio,  and  Madam  do  Lussan  are  at  Boston  ;  they 
gave  a  concert  there  last  eveiung;  the  whole  weiglit  of  the 
concert  fell  thus  on  my  shoulders.  I'layed  the  'prrhitlc.  ui 
Dflai  of  Chopin,  under  the  name  of '  Me<litation  Eeliirieuse,' 
'Last  no2)o,' '  Banjo,'  'Union,'  'Trovatcsro,'  and  'Muniuu-es 
Eoliens.'  Recall  eel  several  times.  A  crazy  amateur,  having 
a  book  of  Beethoven's  sonatas  under  liis  arm,  came  to  seek 
me  between  the  first  and  second  part  of  my  performance, 
re(pu^?ting  me  to  play  an  andante  of  Ik'othoven.  I  con- 
sented by  playing  that  in  Aflat  of  the  'Sonata  patheti(iue.' 
I  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  my  amateur  while  I  played, 
with  his  eyes  fixed  on  the  text,  in  the  English  style,  to"  see 
if  I  made  a  mistake.  Of  all  the  absurdities  practised  by 
the  Anglo-Saxon  race  in  matters  of  art,  this  is  what  makes 
me  sutt'er  the  most.  Their  manner  of  playing  music  is 
Avholly  speculative;  it  is  a  play  of  the  wits.  Tbey  like  to 
see  such  or  such  chords  solved.  Tliey  delight  in  the  cpisotfrs 
of  a  second  repetition.  "Tlicy  comprehend  music  in  their 
own  Avay,"  you  will  tell  me;  but  I  doubt  if  that  is  a  right 
one.  ^fusic  is  a  thing  eminently  sensuous.  Certain  con)- 
binations  move  us,  not  because  they  are  ingenious,  but 
because  they  move  unr  nervous  system  in  a  certain  way. 
I  have  a  horror  of  musical  Puritans.    They  are  arid  natures, 

13* 


1 


160 


KOTES  OF  A  PUylST. 


B„u.ul  Often  coiunnt  ^^'I'l^^f^^^  "^f  ",^;^,;  .i .  Tniitfcm  t; 
,K>t  to  coraimmusc  Im  ,«olt    '>,•",   ".el IwcatTilotfuo 

^^rTiX^  Richmond,  Vnoh  com,nonc«l  .ho 

carnod  up  ^y"l  „lV'  .i,,.,!  to  the  nuarters  of  General 


y"s  movements. 


s:tvSK:g&»r;rKrY„*vo.„„.c.«,tho 


A  THEATRICAL  MOXOMAXIAC. 


151 


incapable  of 
never  judge 
[liose  tasters 
?eu  the  seal, 
u  inipertau'b- 
[  is  served  to 
Tartuttes  of 
is  the  Eiig- 
inditferent ; 
le  takes  eare 
tu  judgment, 
[lis  catalogue 
ts   go   in   all 
.     He  thinks, 
re,  because  it 
idgnient. 
lenient,  so  in- 
ncc,  laborious 
in,  they  must 
■h  they  like  iti 
:  for  oratorios, 
in  this  music, 
they  listen  to 
itter  drops,  of 
;ively  bitter  to 
•  the  stomach." 
le  of  his  uiiig- 
uem,  which  he 
who  visit  Bos- 
d  stalls.     It  is 
white.    Carya- 
,     It  is  adniira- 

3omtncnced  the 
aining  his  posi- 
ction.  He  had 
apparatus,  the 
•ters  of  General 
^  were  instantly 

Volunteers,  the 


most  aristocratic  corps  of  the  Uiiiti'd  States,  sint-e  it  is  com- 
posed cMtiri'Iy  of  the  sons  of  wealtliv  iiiinilics,  have  taken 
with  tliem,  tor  a  service  of  three  months,  their  l)and  <if 
music,  lliis  timcy  of  millionaire  soldiirs  will  cost  them 
fittecn  thousand  dollars.  It  is  a  magniticent  military 
band,  numbering  more  tlian  sixty  persons,  all  meritorious 
artists. 

:Mr.  H    a  fui-rier,  who  has  mtide  more  than  t\vo  hundred 
thousand  dollars  by  soiling  beaver  skins  from  Canada,  and 
bear  skms  trom  the  Rocky  Alountains,  has  become  almost 
a  theatrical  mon<mianiac.     Ko  is  forty-tive  years  old,  with 
a  small,  sourish  voice.     Tfe  lias  a  daughter  sixteen  years 
old,  pretty  but  singing  false,  and  a  wife  forty  years  of  age, 
who  smgs  badly.     AVith  these  elements  he  has  formed  an 
Italian  opera  company,  hi  wliich  he  is  tenor  assoluto,  Ins 
daughter  prima  donna,  and  his  wife  contralto.     It  must  be 
a(hiiitted  that  his  operas  are  got  up  regardless  of  expense; 
but  hgure  to  yourself 'La  Traviata'  by'a  merchant  of  otter 
skins  and  his  interesting  family !     Their //(•/>,<<  took  place 
at  the  Acaduiny  of  Music.     The  eccentricity  of  the  thin"- 
hatl  drawn  an  immense  crowd;  all   the  ral)bit-skiu  mer- 
cliaiits   strutted   there.     Tliey   applauded  Mr.  B.,  whose 
nuniio  was  adorable,  and  all  obtained  a  success  in  bursts 
ot    laughter.      They   were    recalled.      Miss   13.   managed 
to  api)ear  the  same   evening   in   four   marvellous   toilets, 
which  cost,  It  IS  said,  five  thousand  dollai-s.     The  lather 
^^—^  "^vas  dressed  absurdly.    In  the  first  act  lie  was  niufHed 
up  m  a  troubadour  s  cloak,  and  funnel-shaped  boots  which 
reached  to  his  waist,  and  gave  liim  the  appearance  of  a 
mock  scavenger.     Besides,  he  had  not  been  willin<r  to  sacri- 
hce  to  the  demand  of  the  stage  a  magnificent  pair  of  whis- 
kers.    VV  e  are  going  to  have  in  a  few  days  'II  Trovatore,' 
Madam  B.  singing  Azucena.     I  liave  known  peoi.Ie  less 
crazy  who  were  sent  to  the  madhouse, 

June  5.  Second  concert  at  Providence.  All  mv  pieces 
encored.  Kecalled  three  times.  After  '  Kijrolotto,'  the 
public  opened  a  subscription  in  order  to  persuade  me  to 
give  a  matinee,  on  the  9th,  for  piano  alone.  I  shall  i.lay 
SIX  pieces  announced  in  the  programme,  and  six  others  left 
to  the  choice  of  the  audience. 


p 

I,'' 


^,^2  NOTES  OF  A  riAyiST. 

';il.an  ha.  t.kcu  tl^e  A,-a; W  of  Mu^  {l^^^l^r  of 
i„ton.Un^  t.>  i^V:/">y;:^KZ^Sa;ne  Hermann  (the 
Julien'r^  m  London.     .Mi^>*  xf.    .,'7^;  HoreharcUand^ladanio 

d'Angri,  pnina  donna,  aie  e  gaj^ul    a^    '  ,     -i,,tAVcen  the 
Amodio,  Imritone;  fep"'\     f  ^^^,!  "^^  l;\\  ternunate 
acts  two  or  tlrreo  rV"r'^     na^S 
with  a. seance  of  "^^'^^^  ^]-^'*;  \"    .J  [  ^^^^^^^  proportions, 

in  Spain,  ten  years  ago,  '^J;*  "\';'^^^^^^ 

he  is  very  adroit,  and,  aDcnc  an,  ^^  ^        _ 

artof  attn^ct^p  th^I^v^l-  J  ^  ^^.^  fe  chieagdst. 
E::S;^d  'S:itL:;^,^-y  g-e  ^ith  sou.  success  the 
'  Noces  de  Jeanuette. 

Portsmouth,  June  o. 

A  ctavmin,  little  ^■-^^--^fi^ ^J^  Z 
houso-  ..r»  of  Y™:;  i,C;  VhoS.  mC  meeting  .tt  the 
Btivcts  arc  liiiM  jwtli  "'^V*' JV',.,  tliem-look  lilco  an  alley 
,„,„  sift,  ^^^^^^^^i^tm^i^n  in  iVont,  a>al  a 
in  a  park.     L\ei\  nouscua  &  Q^J^, 

kitcllen  garden  with  ^-S^^^^-^^  J^/^^^^^^^^^^^ 
arrival  was  an  event  ^  J^""^"^";  .^|^,,t  intention  of  seeing 
passed  before  the  hotel  ^'^t^^^"^  f  ^i*^"^^^^^^  pretty,  though  a 
lis  and  of  being  adinired  TJfJ^^'-^^t  ^he  station  we  met 
little  provincial  in  ^\^^"^,.f^  f;^.Lre\vere  numberless  om- 
;!J^:^  t:  Ktif St^e^^^t  married  and  gone 

^^^:;/^^Ung:1^^^at  Po^outh^^^tn^i^u.^ 
enthusiasm.     All  the  PJ^f^^^J!;^;^^  ^i^^^^^^^ 
S^'^S^^t  li;:;^r^tmar^^onths takes 
pCe  at  the  Museum.    The  public  crowd  theie. 

Portland,  Maine,  June  6. 

_j.     +v,n  mrmt  beautiful  I  have  had 
for  many  y«>»:     V  '•"  fivi  huiulml  peraoiis,  and  ia  one 


^s-i'^vfi^^^i '■■ 


MADAMINA  OF  DON  JUAN. ' 


153 


or  one  week, 
ike  tliosc  (^f 
lormann  (the 
,aiulMiulanie 
ig-noli,  tenor ; 
,'  loetween  the 
•ill  terniinute 
whose  siu'cess 
i  prop<n'tionf>, 
•in  theAVet^t; 
4  the  (litHcult 
r  at  hid  repre- 
t  Chicago,  St. 
10  success  the 

SMOUTH,  June  5. 

loan.     All  the 
hiteness.     The 
meeting  at  the 
>k  like  an  alley 
in  front,  anil  a 
the  rear.     Our 
iiig  young  girls 
entiou  of  seeing 
>retty,  though  a 
!  station  we  met 
numberless  em- 
larried  and  gone 

Extraordinary 
e  hall  is  used  on 
•e.  The  "  hahy" 
my  months  takes 
there. 

ND,  Maine,  June  6. 

tiful  I  have  had 

ncored ;  recalled. 

;rsons,  and  is  one 

properties.    The 


pul)lic  are  desirous  tliat  I  slionld  votnrn  and  ffive  another 
concert.     Extraordinary  enthusiasm. 

Salkm. 


smal 


Concert,  Saturday,  .Tune  7.  Afudi  success.  A  .,„<,,, 
town.  IJdoro  the  (omniercial  devi'loj.mont  of  iJoston  it 
had  a  large  trade  with  India;  now  it  is  toi-pid.  The  old 
and  rich  merchants  of  Boston  retire  liore.  \Ve  remarked 
on  our  way  to  tlie  hall  a  great  number  of  vf)uiio;  </irls  ..-oinir 
and  eonimg.  It  is  the  town  library,  and  they  y-o^to  ehaii..e 
the  books  they  have  out  for  new  ones,  these  libraries 
exist  m  all  the  United  States. 

Leaving  at  8  o'clock,  there  remains  for  us  the  iier- 
spective  ot  passing  a  Sunday  at  Salem.  "  Katber  die'" 
said  Susmi.  We  hire  a  gigantic  four-horse  coach.  It  has 
the  torm  of  an  English  stage,  and  holds  four  inside  and 
tour  outside.  Iho  weather  is  beautiful.  The  horses  i.aco 
the  road.  We  visit  the  JS^aval  Arsenal  at  Charlestown. 
llicy  work  there  by  gaslight. 

A\'e  arrive  in  the  morning  at  IJ  o'clock. 

'Madamina'  of  Don  Juan  is,  at  my  concerts,  almost 
always  encored.  Susini  sings  it  with  his  beautiful  voice. 
Is  It  the  beauty  of  the  music  which  is  so  sparkliiiij  that  it 
attracts  even  AV^estern  audiences?  "Yes,  without^loubt," 
the  believers  will  answer  nie.  How  is  it  that,  every  time 
he  sings  it  without  announcing  it,  there  has  be  i  a  com- 
plete failure  ?  Is  that  not  eufliciently  conviiiciiii  How, 
then,  do  you  explain  the  complete  silence  of  tie  itublic' 
every  time  that  Susini  sung  the  barcarolle  of  Kicci's  'Sulla 
poppa? '_  And  one  day  that  the  programme  announced 
'  iVladamina'  Susini  sang  by  mistake  the  work  of  Kieci. 
V\  lid  ai)i)lause  from  the  amateurs,  who  were  transported 
111  thinking  they  heard  the  music  of  Mozart. 

Jur    18. 

Going  to  Providence,  I  found  in  the  car  Mason,  the 
pianist,  who  is  about  to  give  a  concert  ;.t  the  Younir  Ladies' 
Academ^y.  ° 

The  country  is  delicious:  a  little  bay  very  near  Xew 
llayen ;  the  sea  on  the  right ;  nice  sailing  parties  riding  at 
anchor;  a  cluster  of  trees  behind  a  pretty  village;  and  a 
church  whose  sharp  steeple  seems  to  pierce  the  sky. 


154 


NOTES  OF  A  riAM^T. 


Si.uisr.KiKU  ,  Mass.,  Jmie  28,  18CS. 

cuii»loycd  here. 


MATINEE. 


Newark,  June  30. 


T         \  Tmi»  •  70  000.     A  rcmarkal)ly 
(State  of   New  Jersey)  l^/  ;2cl^  mc  of  Holland, 
aclivc  «nanufactnnng  town      ij^^"-^'^u   broken.      Th. 

tilled  grounds. 

BuBLixoTOS,  Vermont,  July  3. 

A  «mall  town  built  on  Lak.  ^-t;:;ti','^^m^S 
seen  in  Switzerland  any  bng  ™>r*;^  J^^;^  ^  j^^,,!  attracted 
mountains  which  ^'"'^''^^.t/ll  wUb  oo^^  from  8t.  Al- 
many.  Two  steamers  i^^fX\  a  4  am  ^^^o^'^y  ^^^ 
bans  and  a  train    ^'""^  J™^  ^'^^\^^  Episcopal  Church, 

iug  ibool,  aud  a  chapol  iu  Gotlnc  .tylc 

Es  ROUTE  FOR  Montreal,  July  4. 

I  ain  haivpy  to  escape  th^ricnse^ of  the  4^  of^^  ^ 
smell  Canada,  or  g^^/^^^^re  r.^  W^^  to  l>e  Canadians 
the  station  P^^^^^^^^XX  &  ^^^''^'^^  '''^'''^' 

hy  their  aPP-«J  'mix^re  of  old  Norman  with  the  ex- 
;!;SsKof  MolSr^  ^e  Canadians  are  behind  the  age 
aiiTignorant. 


inie  28,  186S. 

lijiMt!  to  the 

vi\  rifl'-'^  ill'*-' 
vorkinon  are 


ARK,  June  30. 

,  remarkably 
.  of  llollainl, 
troken.  The 
rollri  itself  in 
mi.i:;ht  think 
id  among  the 


ermont,  July  3. 

I  have  never 
:it'ul   than   the 

hatl  attracted 
e  fr(»m  St.  Al- 
d  expressly  for 
scopal  Church, 
le  of  Chopin's. 

take  tea  with 
Iso  an  excellent 
)f  '  La  Vierge  k 
iidsons  are  good 
tr  his  house,  on 
It  a  large  hoard- 


MoNTBEAt,  July  4. 

4th  of  July.    T 

AV^e  take  up  at 

to  l)e  Canadians 

le  French  which 

nan  with  the  ex- 

behind  the  age 


RAFTS  ON  ST.  LA  WRESCE.  155 

10  o'clock.  Arrived  at  xAfontreal.  Tlie  train  stoi)i.ed  at 
the  station  opposite  Montreal,  which,  as  well  as  the  lake 
opened  niagniticently  on  the  sight.  In  the  distance  arc' 
splendid  huildings,  among  which  we  nuist  mention  Xctre 
l>ame,  a  beautitul  cathedral,  with  very  tine  steeples.  We 
cross  tiie  lake  on  a  steamboat.  AVe  are  hardly  ten  hours 
m  Canada,  yet  we  have  already  met  some  specin'iens  of  that 
surly,  conceited,  egotistic  type,  of  which  the  English  only 
Jias  (and  it  is  tortuiiate)  the  secret. 

From  Montkkal  to  La  Chink,  July  5. 
On  the  road  I  saw  a  tailor's  sign,  'Hardes  tonte  faites.' 
1    isoldtivnch.     Arrived  at  La  Chine.     Opposite,  on  the 
other  shore,  we  see  the  church  of  a  villaoe  entirelv  inhabited 
l)y  Li(  bans  c-j^nverted  to  Catholicism.  ^It  is  call'-l  Coylm- 
awaggher.    1  he  church,  whose  small  cupola  is  covorcl  with 
coi.per,  glistens  111  the  sun  like  a  minaret.     The  St.  Law- 
rence IS  magniticent.     We  see  some  rafts  desceiidii,.^  the 
current,  it  is  trightful  to  behold.     They  cut  timber  np  the 
bt.  J.awrence  and,  to  avoid  the  expense  of  transi.ortation, 
they  attach  the  trunks  of  the  trees  together  and  thus  let 
them  Hoat  to  Ab>ntreal.    Two  or  three  men,  with  'onir  l-oles, 
direct  this  sumular  raft.     It  would  make  your  hair  staiul 
on  end  to  see  these  men  guide  them  over  the  rapids  of  the 
river;    the   ratt  glances,  rebounds,   disappears   ami.l   the 
toani,  and  passes  the  rapi.ls  like  an  arrow.     At  the  invita- 
tion ot  t  iree  oflicers  of  the  Scotch  Guards,  we  went  in  a 
canoe  as  far  as  Alyarge  Island  ;  two  soldiers  followed  us  in 
a  boat  with  provisions.    The  daughter  of  Trobriant,  Aladam 
Stevens,  ot  J3oston,  Colonel  Reid,  and  two  Misses  Reid  ac- 
companied us.     We  san-  in  chorus  the  quartette  of  '  Rigo- 
etto.      Ihe  large  wild  Lirds  flew  away  frightened  by  our 
harmonious  accents.     Kam  is  the  life  of  the  company,  as 

u    .V  r   L V'^' • "  J"'^^'  r'^  ^^^'•l  Dmimore.     The  peasants 
w  ear  buckles  in  tlieir  shoes. 

July  6. 

Arrived  at  Quebec.  Citadel  on  -he  top  of  a  cliff  four 
or  hve  hu.alred  feet  high,  that  comman<ls  the  harbour. 
J  he  suburbs  comnu-nce  at  the  shore,  but,  to  speak  propcrl  v, 

1  nl' "/'  '"''""•'  '''\H  *'^J^  "*■  ^•'^  J'i"  5  it  is  reached  by 
a  Clocked,  narrow,  and  silent  street. 


mmmmmimt^^' 


150 


yori-S  OF  A  riANlST. 


with  i.m*t.,  .u.,1  ,'*'\'l;"™'  :;'":;£  SWc..»..ltl;e 

Btroets  several  of  iny  P^*:^;^*;;   ,  „,,„thctic.     Despi^^ed  by  the 

The  population  is  ugly  ami  «r'^^''^Yi  In.mv 
E.i'll.ll  they  return  vt  in  ^-^^-^^^  jtX<l  lV"ot  above 

On  the  terraee  at  ^"f  ^^^' \""'  n  i«  b  retehed  out,  pro- 
the  bay,  and  at  n.y  ^V^^^  ^^.^^""^iVereeive  the  Bteeplu  of 
dueing  a  singular  op  u-a  >7f  *'     \l^[,'i  „,e.     I  can  cast 

S^Xr;:'^0n%n^4J  afternoon  it  is  the  general 

ber,  the  forests  ^-^^^S^^..^^  I'C  said,  are  very 
two  t1.oasand  m^i.     Tl^  ^^^l' ^'^^^^t  au^^^^^^  Thus  they 

numerous,  and  exeitise  a  ^  tiy  -,  ,,^      circuses,  puppet- 

i^jfLirsrikSrtr:"",!  «>  ,^^,^  o.  ..,0 

nances,  sallow  complexions    "^^^  f^^  J'^^^^eets  (luite  a  num- 
Et;«l>i*aif  Json>i'LS:'i  the  cut  of  tUe  .u. 


CANADIAN  riiONUNCtA  TION. 


157 


iviilior  is  tViO 
,ulalo  vFiviu'h) 
{\A  (the  Cuna- 
•^  list  of  tlu-m 
,n.  Lonl  i'iXi- 
it  tlie  coiioort. 
i  are  translatod 

cts  are  orowdod 
uiul,  tlierc   are 

0,  Sirtterrt  of  tlio 

1,  etc.  The  old 
v'ed  the  luiine  of 
of  the  Eiiglisli 
ces? 

"concert,  on  the 
vhistUng  in  the 

Despised  hy  the 

lusy. 

lid  red  feet  above 
rcti-hed  ont,  pro- 
ve the  steeple  oi 

me.  I('i»»  ^^f 
and  look  into  all 
X  is  the  general 

d,  consists  in  tim- 
irrison  consists  ot 
uive  said,  are  very 
ority.  Thus  they 
g  circuses,  puppet- 
a  to  judge  of  the 

el)ec— dull  counte- 
nien.  The  streets, 
treets  (^uite  a  nuni- 
coats,  Avith  yellow 
their  waist.  They 
L  the  cut  of  the  sur- 


tout,  which  is  too  largo  for  tlicni,  and  the  had  sloovos  recall 
the  cassock.     Tliesi-  are  pujiils  of  the  cojli'ii'i'. 

Tile  |tn>nunciation  of  the  Canadians  is  ridiculous  and  ]ire- 
tentious,  the  more  so  as  thev  think  they  spt'ak  so  well.  Mr. 
Caiichon  was  the  Ministi'r  of  tiie  Interior  for  some  years. 
Those  are  called  demagogues  here  who  have  not  contril»ute<l 
to  the  suhscfiptions  for  the  Pope. 

J'aparn/ouais  ein  via  (vieux)  honlme  jires  du  houis  (hois), 
(Canadian  pronunciation).  Mr.  C'anchon  laughs  very  much 
at  the  ridiculous  ]>ronunciation  of  the  I'arisians,  "  Ra- 
chail  surt(»ut  exagerait  leu  fran(;ais  et  lui  ]!(i!i-A  regretta  leu 
Canatla." 

"  Ses  louais"  (laws)  are  local;  England  has  nothing  to  <>• 
with  them. 

Jul- 

Saw  the  interment  of  a  sergeant  of  artillery,  who  ww. 
killed  hy  a  soldier.  A  detachment  of  the  17th  Rif  s  ot 
the  artillery  gunners,  and  one  hundred  sergeants,  wi  h< 
start'  orticers,  acciniipanied  the  body,  which  was  ])la<'e>i  (>ii 
a  gun  carriage.  The  music  was  lingular.  The  dnunmers 
beat  a  roll  which  lasted  one  bar;  then  a  rest  for  one  bar, 
and  a  blow  of  the  bass  drum  on  the  weak  ])art  of  the  bar; 
then  a  harmony  of  eight  bars  in  the  minor  naxle,  played 
by  tlutos  in  minor  thirds.  It  was  melancholy  and  mournful, 
and  tilled  you  with  profomid  emotion.  I  followed  them  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  not  being  ahle  to  tear  myself  away  from 
the  melancholy  charm  of  this  strange  niusic.  The  sound 
of  the  bass  drum  in  counter-time,  the  rests  alternating  with 
this  luguhrious  roll,  the  i)laintive  melody  of  the  ilutes,  and 
the  slow  rhythm  marked  by  the  tread  of  the  soldiers,  pro- 
duced an  ett'ect  which  I  had  never  before  imagined. 

Quebec,  July  9. 

Review  on  the  Esplanade.  The  troops  are  superb,  and 
of  tine  appearance.  The  Governor-general  walked  in  citi- 
zen's dress.  The  band  of  music  is  large,  and  has  played 
'  Dixii','  which  is  very  popular  here,  not  only  on  account 
of  its  melody ,  Avhich  is  very  original,  but  because,  being  the 
air  adopted  by  the  Confederates,  they  are  delighted  in  being 
able  by  this  means  of  proving  their  sympathyfor  the  Soutli. 


m 


158 


NOTES  OF  A  /V.»>7.^r. 


Af„.  .1,0  -"■"\;.^:;.;':;  J  :r; 1 1™  ui;;:.,!  ..i- 1'., ■ 

,„„1  „U  .:,c..lH-.-.-,  ''  ;'^,  ':  't,  w  l\,.Uam,i.,'  m,uvlK.,l  tl,» 

AftiTllOOH,    4    OC.Mvk.       lOOlv 

Montrciil.  ,      Lwliert-   irmitly  applnudctl.     A 

,,;i'l;i,!f':,l-  ;;'„!;:;;\",:u!'a  ;i:^'«,u  a,>i.J  „. .- 


AV 


urec-or"  (Hi  o'clock). 

Loavo  Montreal  hy  the  tnvin  for  Ottawa. 


July  11. 


CANADIAN  NAMKS  OF  PERSONS. 


Aliraliaiu  I'epine 

Drol.'t. 

Poulain. 

L'lwit'V. 

L(>  hnnli- 

Cansi'  urnln. 

(ii-.-.iiiT. 

I'ns  mill. 

Ciiiiou  (jngi') 

Boauiiri'' 


,      ,  La  fontahiP. 

Lnjiin.  |,.^j„  ,luiiul(<lt>ctor)- 

K!M>n'"(:'rainu...r.-1.ant).UM,u...au. 

i.;/;;;;:".hu.ntagn«.  J-achauc... 

Boxi.T,  J  ,^  vigu.'ur  (vi<.li"i''t). 

La  v(m!.  jji^  chaiin.^  ((.iauist). 
I'oiner.  J  j^  I,,.,,,,  (organist). 

J'--  '■"^V-  L'arrivee. 

I'diniiiiiT. 

Lu  meinour. 


tenant  of  tl.e  ^'-^^ti^e  X  tv^  o  of 'rebel  notoriety,  u^ 

,nonth  .go,  on  ^'^^'^^-'V  ^Vl^T  e\i^  .  very  near  at  first  ben vg 
vvvi,.gtornntUeblcH-kaae.     liONa      j  ^^^^  ^  ^^^^^ 

taken  by  the  Yankee.;,  ^^^  j  ^^  ,,  ^^Jj  Imnself. 

f:^;;^Sn^:x:o-Si^--^ 

cer  in  the  Sootcli  FusiWeK.  ,„,y  u. 

„.„t  hero  wl.Hlu --■:^;:? ;,;',^;V[' 'C;.;..,„hva  .o  aooom- 
and 

canoe.     A>*  i»i  ^^  ashnigtc 


Arrived  at  Ottawa.  \''V^ ^'^'^^^n.^^  of  the  town, 
ent  here  which,  ^''^"^^^'^S'-"'?/  ^^'uVrr  uired  to  accom- 
:.l  the  nmnber  of  ^V-^^^^^^  ffin-n  Crusoe;. 


"F' 


st.\(;i-i..M{  Tvr/:  or  n{/:\rn.]t.i\'. 


i:)0 


tho  Quoon' 
nl  of  honour 
ours,  iitfoiii- 
munla-d  tlio 
itr  i\nn?>,  iiiitl 
t'siglit.    I'l"^ 

to  R'turu  to 

iiilaiuU'tl.     A 
A   mo  "ouit- 

July  !!• 


aiiiP. 

iiiiitl  (doctor)- 

ati. 

lice. 

t. 

uiHir  (violinist), 
iiniu^  (l.iauist). 
1,.  (organist). 

VL'U. 

Mity  years,  lie«- 
lusod  liirusolf  a 
(..\  notoriety,  iu 
■iir  at  tirstbeinji; 
irt  Bto[»l>e<l  near 
,  iurttify  himself, 
/itv,  i)'y  making 
•itii  hirn.  Kani, 
,thcr  yomig  otH- 

July  11. 
I  hotiso  of  parlia- 
i^^^ss  of  the  town, 
.mired  to  aeeoni- 
ohuison  CrusoeH 
irc  seattered.     It 


IS  n  eify  in  prosiu'cf.  From  the  station  Iho  convent  of 
(Jray  Sisters,  who  e(hi<'atc  voiiiiij  jrirls,  can  he  seen.  I.s 
cathe(hal  is  liamlsonie,  and  possessi's  an  ortran  made  in 
Knirland  at  tlie  cost  of  XITOO  sterling.  The  IJishop  is  from 
Marx'illi's -diis  name  is  doseph  (Ju'vircs.  'I'here  is  also  u 
college  fory(Mmg  men  kept  hy  tho  Uhlatu  Fathers;  u  very 
iiuna'rou.s  order  in  Cunuda. 


CILVrTEll  XL 


OfiDRN8nrnn,  Sunday,  July  12. 
I  WAS  walking  on  the  border  of  tho  liivr  St.  Lawrence, 
whoso  tunndtnoiis  waters  rolled  like  th>>  waves  of  the  sea.' 
The'Uallad  to  tho  Moon,'  by  Alfred  Musset,  was  recalK'd  to 
my  n^uul  on  seeing  tho  sun  go  down.  His  deep  red  disk 
drowned  in  the  violet  mist,  appeared  to  hamr  balanced  on 
tho  lop  of  a  church  steeple,  of  which  Iliad' a  glimpse  on 
the  Canadian  shore.  The  night  drew  on,  the  air  had  a 
delightful  freshness,  and  tho  streets  wer.'  o'ershadowed  bv 
large  trees  whoso  thhk  foliage  im])arted  an  air  of  mvsterv 
to  all  tho  dwellings.  A  I'rotestant  church  concealed  be- 
hind a  cluster  of  trees  attracted  my  attention.  The  sound 
of  tho  organ  ami  a  liymu  sung  by  female  voices  rose  above 
the  silence  and  calm  of  tho  night.  Xotiiintr  .(.nld  be  more 
beautiful  than  this  hymn;  in  spito  of  myself  I  was  melted 
to  tears.     It  was  Sunday's  e\ening  ser\ico. 

En  noi'TK  FOR  AVatku town,  .July  13. 

In  tho  cars  was  a  crowd  of  soldiers  and  some  Irishmen  (/ans 
Irfi  ri</ii<s  (hi  m(/)>nir  (drunk).  ])ecidedly  1  do  not  liko 
tho  Irish;  t|iey  aro  a  rudo,  ignorant,  8ii]ierstitious  race. 
AVatortown  is  a  pretty  spot.  My  concert  has  taken  place 
—a  great  success — received  some  l)ouqnets.  There  are  many 
French  people  living  here,  so  many  that  a  French  paper, 
"Lo  jthare  des  lacs,"  is  published  here. 

At  Watertown  I  found  a  singular  type  of  Frenchman, 
lie  gives  lessons  in  dancing,  in  FreMc'h,  singing,  and  fcn- 
emg,  and  now  and  then  is  an  impressario  and  aii  agent  for 


;;;;r;mu. '  -v.  ,!»-;;;:;;::,:';;;;:;':n':';'li ..''  >  -i-"  •:!';; 

TouoNTO,  July  18- 

M,«„,  .■...■or.  unaor  'l^M^'^ri;;'-.''-- V-^^^^^^^^ 
Alllii'tl'™"",,'.'    •,">    ,1,,,,'    lli.m  liomi.iinll,  ll»-> 

Wiae  his  own  workH.  ^^^^^^^^  j^^^^  32. 

Clmrimnp;  Vittle  town.  bocuf.btf.«,  July  22. 

,     .     n      The  mmimns  of  the  military  baud 

^^''l'^''^      ='  Ai-m-UN,  July  23. 

piS:,L.    Magnmcont  concert.  ^^^^^^^,„^,  ,,„,^  ,^. 

I„  ,hc  car.  tVrcc  rc™on»  «  J  "f'U'u.g  it-     J?'"'"- 


w 


,,  Ih.  .jjivi'H  t'oi" 
veiling,  July  15- 

,  to  U'uvo  at  11 
(I  my  I'iaiio. 

TouoNTO,  July  1*- 

,f  Major  (U-ncnil 
iris  woiv  pivsi'Ut. 
,,lavi"<U  a  trans- 
1   Ho'uficaiilt,  tho 
is  tlio  most  iiui'U- 
.(ly,  not  a  Fivnch 
„.r  tlu'in  an<l  l>'»t- 
urultfratiourf  they 

Batavu,  July  22. 

BocuESTRR,  July  22. 

the  military  baiul 
itinsjr  for  inc. 

Aunnis,  July  23. 

\m  eight  huiulred 

[jANASPAiorA,  July  24. 
r,  'lefl  Miserahlos'  in 
roading  it.     C»nan- 
l,.rs  of  Lake  Canau- 

utifal  green  laAm  iu 


77//    I 'I r SIC 


161 


whos.'  .viitiva  laruf  frc- covers  witli  its  dark  sIukIowk  u 
roiiuli  >toiu'  iimli'r  which  an  Intlian,  one  of  tlic  last  «tccii- 
jiants  (.f  the  country  lut'orc  the  arrival  of  llic  whiles,  is 
niternd.  Ih-  was  an  imlian  Chief.  Mr.  Wood,  who  lirst 
settled  at  Canandaijjjna,  was  his  friend.  He  was  an  oM  man 
who  died  many  viars  ag<i.  He  had  m-ver  failed  dnrintr  lii'^ 
lile  to  iiaint  wilii  white  every  year  the  loml.  of  his  frTend. 

•  iiiMivA,  .Inly  Un. 

(Jeneva  is  situated  on  tia-  '  ke,  whieh  is  forty  miles  lont; 
and  time  hroad.  Immense  eoiicert  —  an  inundation  of 
lK.U(iUets.  TIk'  sIku-i's  of  the  lake  are  exactly  like  those  of 
Lake  (Jeni'vu  (Switzerland  land  its  wat«'r  is  so  cold  that  i)er- 
soiis  drowned  in  it  never  rise  to  thesurfaiv.  1  spent  thedav 
at  the  house  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Kec!;,  .  verv  well  infornuil 
jrentleman  who  keeps  the  eolleu'eat  Walnut"  Hill.  He  has  a 
tharminn-  dwellini-'  hiiilt  of  hniwn  stone,  eovered  with  iw 
and  Juoss.     1  took  u  sail  m  a  yaeht  (.n  the  lake. 

July  2(i 
On  goin*;  from  (Jeneva  to  the  extremity  of  the  lake  (in 
a  Hteamer)  to  take  the  train  for  Elmira,  tlie  most  heauliliil 
country  in  the  world  is  seen.  Vounu' girls  from  a  lioardin-'- 
school  are  on  hoard,  each  one  has'lier  hasket  tilled  witli 
(lainties.  The  mistress  and  her  hushand  carry  a  hasket 
hlled  with  cold  eatahles.  They  were  iroing  on  a  pi.nic 
and  left  us  at  a  charming  little 'landing  place.  The  thick 
tufted  trees  threw  their  hranches  almost  to  the  water  on 
the  edge  of  the  lake.  A  white  little  church  pierced 
through  the  foliage  of  the  hill.  Shady  ravines  seeme.l 
to  mvite  them  to  he  seated.  Decidedly  these  young  girls 
have  chosen  a  delicious  jiluee  to  iiass  u  eharming  duy''un(l 
dnie  U]ton  the  grass. 

Elmiua,  July  2G. 
Gave  a  concert,  and  (hy  the  hye)  have  conducted  mvself 
Iiadly  towards  the  audience.     It  is  true  that  the  audience 
did  not  «,   serve  hetter  treatment. 

OsiVKfio,  .Filly  29. 

Passed  four  houi-s  at  Syracuse  on  the  road.     A  prettv 
good  concert  at  Oswego.     Fonnd  there  the  excellent  J5arrv, 

14*  ^     ■ 


A' 


III 


i^'j 


-■  -^sm.'i'^it^fmm 


1.. 

m 


162 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAXIST. 


and  his  noat,  pretty  wifo,  as  aiiiiablo  as  ever.  Great  en- 
tlmsiasiii.  The  eoiinnerce  of  Oswejjo  eonsi^^s  in  hunl)er  tor 
buiidino's,  and  idl  sorts  of  grain.  Xoar  Oswego  is  the 
greatest"  lionr-inill  probably  la  existenee.  Jiast  yi-ar  it 
grouinl  550,000  barrels  of  tlour.  1  took  a  walk  on  the  shores 
of  Lake  Ontario,  which  is  a  vast  bine  ocean.  On  my  lett  a 
ton<nio  of  land,  coveretl  with  thick  shade,  ran  out  into  the 
blue  mirror  of  the  lake.  On  my  right  stands  Fort  Oswego, 
with  its  wooden  wharf.  1  was  on  a  steep  clitf,  about  one 
hundred  feet  high,  which  looked  out  ou  the  country 
around  me. 

Rome,  .July  30. 

Neat  little  village,  but  I  will,  nevertheless,  ne^er  go 
there  again. 

Utica,  July  31. 

A  charming  town  of  27,000  inhab'vants.    All  the  houses 
have  in  frontal  green  grassplot.     The  streets  are  lined  with 
trees,  which  give  a  |iark-like  appearance  to  the  town.     Ivy 
covers  the  houses,  and  its  festoons  reach  to  the  roots,  tail- 
ing back  gracefully  over  the  windows.  x.  ■.  •      n 
^rhey  say  that  McOlellan,  under  the  influence  of  his  old 
sympathies,  and  the  memories  of  his  comradeship  with  the 
Southern  irenerals,  who,  for  the  most  part,  were  his  iriends 
and  schoolfellows,  has  not  pushed  the  war  as  vigorously  as 
tliey  had  a  riiiht  to  expect  from  him.     ^  ou  must  recolect 
that  .Trlierson  Davis  was  Secretary  of  War  at  the  period  ot 
the  Orimeaii  war,  and  that  it  was  he  ^vho  tirst  tlisc-oyered 
the  merits  of  Cai)tain  McOlellan,  and  sent  him  to  Sebas- 
topol,  where  he  made  himself  known  by  the  sagacity  ot  Ins 
observations  and  the  depth  of  his  judgment  m  the  report 
on  that  celebrated  siege  which  he  ma(h;  to  his  government. 
Others  say  that  he  is  in  tavor  of  slavery,  and  c()nse(iuently 
less  hostile  to  the  South  than  he  is  to  the  Republican  party 
.  of  the  North;  the   party  l)y  which,  for  some   tune,  the 
President   seems   disposed   to  be    mfluer.ced.      It   is  said 
that  treason  lurks  in  tliebiu'hest  region  of  our  government, 
and  that,  obedient  to  the  sympathies  of  the  family,  McCjeb 
Ian  has  revealed,  at  manv  times,  the  Federal  plans  betore 
Kichmond.     I  know  nothing  about  it.     So  many  absurd 


MADAM  STErilEX  /' 


it;;3 


\-or.  Groat  en- 
's in  hunhor  tor 
Oswego  is  the 
Jiiist  yi'ar  it 
ilk  on  the  shores 
1.  On  my  left  a 
ran  out  into  tlio 
lis  Fort  Oswego, 
clitt",  about  one 
on   the   country 

Rome,  July  30. 
heless,  never  go 

Utica,  July  31. 

All  the  houses 
its  are  lined  with 
)  the  town.  Ivy 
;o  the  roofs,  fall- 

tluenee  of  his  old 
•adeship  with  the 
,  were  his  friends 
r  as  vigorously  as 
ou  nuist  reeolleet 
ir  at  the  ^leriod  of 
n  tirst  diseoveved 
lit  him  to  tSebas- 
rlie  sagacity  of  his 
out  in  the  report 
o  his  government, 
and  conseipiently 
Republican  jiarty 
r  some   time,  the 
need.      It   is   said 
if  our  government, 
he  family,  McC'lel- 
dcral  plans  before 
tjo  many  absurd 


and  contradictory  things  are  said  that  it  becojnes  mvc^^Mrv 
to  renounce  ail  opinion  founded  on  rumours,  and  admit  m.lV 
fliose  probabditics  which  are  approved  hy  the  stri<-tcst 
good  sense  and  the  most  rigorous  moderation. 

Clevelaxd,  Sunday,  Nov(>nilicr  2.'?. 

It  snows,  it  blows,  the  lake  is  furious;  Avaves  of  muddv 
watcr  rise  no  like  mountains,  and  roll  and  sj.read  themselves 
in_ sheets  of  loam  on  tlie  shore,  on  which  they  first  l)reak 
\yith  a  crash.  I  hear  their  roarimrs  in  mv  chamber.  Xo- 
thjng  can  give  you  an  idea  of  the  gloom  with  which  it  in- 
spires me.  Sunday  is  always  a  sjylenetic  davin  all  I'rotestai-t 
comitries  but  in  Cleveland  it  is  enough  to  make  von  com- 
mit suicide.  Lake  Erie  is  dani.-erous  at  this  season;  like 
alj  the  great  lakes  of  America,  it  is  a  sea,  plus  tornadnes  of 
wind  and  the  dangers  of  the  coast,  whic'i  arc  multiplied  in 
consequence  of  the  proximity  of  the  shore. 

Novomlier  2!. 

In  going  from  Cleveland  to  Detroit  Ave  mot  in  tin.  car 

Madam  Stej)hen  T) ,  the  wife  of  the  famous  Senator 

who  contested  the  presidency  with  Lincoln,  and  made  him- 
selt  the  leader  of  a  groat  party.     The  bi.autv  and  elctrance 

ot   Uadain  I) ha\e  jiassed  info  a  proverb,  and  are  as 

celebrated  as  the  eloquence  of  the  Senator,  who  has  been 
dead  tor  nearly  a  year.  She  still  possesses  great  beautv, 
appears  to  be  about  twenty-five  yeai-s  of  ace,  although  \\vy 
intimate  frien.ls  (alasl  Avho  has  them  mit?)  i.retend  that 
she  IS  past  thirty.  IFer  sti-ictly  black  costume;  her  botmef, 
trom  rt-hich  poops  out  the  widow's  cap  of  while  tulle,  li.ar- 
velously  sets  off  the  beauty  of  her  complexion  and  the 
regularity  of  lier  fc^atures.  She  is  a  woman  such  as  doubt- 
less the  Greeks  imagined  when  they  consecrated  a  A\-orshi]i 
to  beauty,  and,  after  having  once  seen  her,  it  is  more  ditH- 
c'ult  to  forget  her  than  to  have  her  alwavs  present  to  the 
imagination. 

Toledo,  November  20,  18t!2. 

INothhig  intorosting.  Audience  stiqud.  In  tlu"  Artist's 
Room  there  was  a  bill  attached  to  the  wall:  "If,  before 
commencing  the  concert,  the  i)oi-forniers  do  not  pav  the 
rout  of  the  hall,  the  porter  has  orders  from  the  i)ropi-f(  toiv 


!'.^ 


I'f 


r? 


^g^  NOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 

fn  turn  off  the  "-as."     Tluit  does  net  give  u,-*  ii  very  jiigh 
Llo  •  the  1  onosly  of  the  artists  Vho  have  i..rtbnued  he- 
foie  ?l.o  T<1 'liau\.ul,lic,  or  of  the  liherality  ot  the  ama- 
teurs  of  the  town. 

Nov««il)or  27. 

Goino-  fnnnT..le(lo  to  Erie  (Penn«ylvama),  on  a^w't  "jar 
,ne  h     he  smokin-c-ar,  some  fanner,  without  douht,  pluNe.l 
t  eife     ITestnaie.lc(mscieutiously.    Ilisstoc^kot  luusirwas 
nhe;i  to  some  Seot<-h  and  Irish  airs.    Only  he  I'lay-  ej^ry- 
t   i  -  in  F.     I  slioukl  have  seen  nothu^j;  aniiss  in  it  if  he 
W  not  invariahly  taken  it  hito  his  he.d  t<.  l'l=>y      >-  j-; 
instead  of  B  flat.     At  tiie  heginmng  I  was  ^^f  1;^  ;     1^; 
leno-th  I  was  suiumlarly  pleased  with  it      Ihe  ^'J  li^^;"^; 
not^    nee  intro.luee.l  there  was  a  fight  hetween  tl>e  C  ,im 
F  wli  -li  hy  turns,  seeming  to  dispute  the  possession  ot  the 
'  ii^nk  ;a,ui  mehu;eholy  lmrniony,phinged  me  n>to^^^ 
reverie      I  sa^^'  unfolcUnl  hefore  my  eyes  all  sorts  ot  eli.  nn 
n"  hVmrs,  without  douht,  since  they  ravished  ^ne  as  lo.ig 
as  inv  rA-erie  laste<l,  hut  I  was  not  ahle  at  erwards  to  reea  1 
JhJn.     The  Seoteh  melodies  are,  aocording  to  ^^^.y  J'^^'^J^ 
se  whieh  have  the  most  -character;  it  is,  m  truth,  the 
n    sic  of  the  mountains  and  of  fantastic  legends.     I  d  i- 
c<^er  in  it  the  reflection  of  the  Scottish  character  nn^stujil 
exalted,  very  superstitious,  poetic,  dreamy,  and  amM.     Its 
n'erv    s  of  a  fourth,  aiul  the  fre<iueiit  employment  of  the 
1  .1  chord,  the  rhvthm  weakened  hy  the  ahsence  ot  ac.en- 
ti^cd  oaderoes,  powerfully  contrihute  to  give  them  their 
eCcter  of  strmlge  melancholy  and  of  twilight  poesy. 

Erie,  Pennsylvania,  Novembor  27. 

Three  or  four  days  a^o,  hehig  at  Cleveland  at  the  hotel 
Ai  -'  er   (the    most  frightful,   filthy   eatuig-honse    m  the 
woi^d)    I  ^vas  looking"  through  the  window  and  saw    a 
some  aistance  a  small  cemetery.     A  rector,  to  whoin  I  had 
Si     troduced  that  morning,  told  ine  respectmg  this  suh- 
Pct  that  the  cemetc.ry  had  Hn-  many  days  heen  the  theme 
S  c<  ivei-sation,  that  every  night  for  a  week  past  a  gho 
?ook   his  pastime   there,  ""^-^   'f --^ured   even   nito   Ae 
streets.    Some  women  were  said  to  have  seen  it      1  he  sto. } 
appeared  foolish  to  me,  like  all  ghost  stones.    Nevertheless 


1 


THE  WARRANT  i)F  ARRK.'iT. 


165 


fj  a  \-ovy  liiu'li 
K'dbnut'd  be- 
,'  of  tlio  UlUll- 


Novi"tjil)or  27. 

on  a  rii-at  near 
doubt,  iilaVL'd 
kot'imisii-was 
'  iilaycd  t'vcrv- 
niss  ill  it  if  lio 
J  (lay  r>  natural 
hocked,  but  at 
'he  oVilitt'i-ated 
'WW  the  C  and 
^ssession  of  the 
ne  into  a  sloojiy 
sorts  of  charm- 
ed me  as  long 
•wards  to  recall 
r  to  my  mind, 
's,  in  truth,  the 
legends.     Idis- 
•acter,  mystical, 
and  wihl.     Its 
)loyment  of  the 
,l)sence  of  accen- 
rjive  them  their 
ilight  looesy. 

lia,  Noveinbcir  27. 

nd  at  the  hotel 
ir-house  in  the 
low  and  saw  at 
,  to  -whom  I  had 
pecthig  this  sub- 
;  l)een  the  theme 
L!ek  past  a  ghost 
I  even  into  the 
en  it.  The  story 
c's.    Xevertheless 


T  read  ma  (  Icyr  and  pai^T  tliis  eveniiio-  tlie  followin-^ 
article:  'Last  night  two  J rish  servants  met  tlic  gliost  (Pf 
the  ..omctery  u,  Knc  Street.  The  fright  Mj.ieh  th'se  poor 
girls  received  has  been  such  that  one  of  them  fainted,  and 
the  other  has  l.ad  a  nervous  attack,  which  still  conthiues, 
and  places  her  lite  iii  daiiirer. 

Saxpi-sky,  Oliio,  Dccciiili(.r  4. 

Small  town  and  very  strange  audience.     The  ai.i.lause 
nmch'''*'''''^''  "*'  '''^'^'^^"'^"'  ''■^''^•'^    frighteucl    Patti   \ery 

•  i';  ^^''\  ;*''■  1'"^"'"'  ^  ^'"V^  ^^'^"^  ^"  ^ni^J<^S  I  fiiHl  myself 
m  the  midst  of  a  mountam  of  trunks.     I  end  by  s,|uafti„.r 

down  among  them,  from  whence  I  hear  the  conductor  <a'v 
to  Ins  c.mpanion  ''I  have  there  two  emhahned  bodies  T' 
Imagine  what  1  felt ! 

Zanesville,  Ohio,  Decomb.-r  f). 
There  were  many  soldiers  in  the  audience.     The  liotel 
Xin^  passable  and  the  landlord  did  all  he  could  to  be  a<n-ee- 
al.l..  to  us.     I  b.rgot  to  mention  a  remarkable  incident  at 
Sandusky.     Purmg  the  concert  a  warrant  of  arrest  I'or  me 
bec-ausc  I  had  not  paid  the  license  to  the  town.     "Very 
well ;    Let  us  pay  the  six  dollars,  and  I  do  not  -o  to  i.rison  '' 
Ihese  thmgs  are  aniusing,  an.l  break  the  monotonv  of  our 
existence.     I  bad  just  linisbed  'Murmures  EoliensV  whic^h 
the  public,  had  encored.     I  returned  into  the  artist's  numi, 
and  h.und  rnyself  in  the  presence  of  the  constable.     Oh  ' 
the  mstabd.tv  of  human  things.     On  the  one  side  irlory! 
on  tlH3  other  t^.o  sombre  dun-eons  of  Sandusky.    The\  a|;i- 
ol  ami  the  Tarpeian  Kockl     Strakosch,  the  new  Dccius, 
has  otlered  himselt  uj.,  and,  thanks  to  six  dollars,  has  saved 
me  Irom  the  horror  of  ca[itivity. 

December  6. 

In  going  from  Zanesville  to  Columbus,  after  seekin.r  in 
vain  for  a  seat  in  the  smoking-car,  I  found  myself  hi  a* car 
fille.1  Avith  nien  badly  clothed  aixl  with  long  heards.  I 
bought  at  first  that  they  were  recruits,  but  Teamed  that 
they  were  prisoners  of  war,  an.l  had  no  more  doubt  on  tlio 
subject  on  hearing  one  of  them  whittle  'Dixie.'     iv^t  hav- 


Jp, 


1(3G 


SOTES  or  A  PIASIST. 


i,.,  any  .cat  I  was  inviu.!  U  ^y^^^;;;;^  ^'^^  2Z 

oM  torn  hat  and  an  '{I' ,J/, '^^  ^.^  u W'lni:  iVoni  his  re 
youn-  man  ^vas   nmi  \   rg   n,   an.l,       .    .        i^i^avionr 

i,K..nnannors,  ^'^'^'^f  ^''\^  .^.^X,^  ^  s.  Th.v  ^vor.  all 
sin^-nlarly  -'''^r^^ V'  ,  Vo  ^  c  H  Vrs  anJ  scldiors  of  the 
,„,;i,r  the  guanl  ()  ^''TV;  >  h  ir  on.l  .-•  One  of  tlie 
rnitcl  States      ^^'^^ -^^S'^'^,^;!     ^V^^,^^^^  gave  a 

soldiers  hought  hyo  cents  ^^^^^  *  ^"J,,.^,,,!  it  wifh  t'.vo 
l,n,aful  to  one  of  the  1>V^7^  ';;  ^^^"Ju-e  om  something, 
'•vluM- companions.  V'"^;:*^."  n  -  ^^"^  ^^vseli'  These 
l.at  was  atVaul   rom  i<f  ••  .^  ^  ^^'    "^,urterenee  u.d  s*oi- 

pily  impressed  on  their  countenances. 

I.  it  not  singular  tluit  An^nc^ns  ^v1k>^cc^  t^  P-- J 
clear  and  practical  judgmen;  »  *  f  ";^\;  '\,,  .  , ,,.  ent^r 
power  'or  understandmg  r[nK-iples,  as  soon  as        v 

into  the  donuun  of  the  j^^^^^^'  j;'  ^«t^.^,^;. ; '  ,  ..ood  sense 
go  astray,  and  repeat  «i>-"-'}^^^  [^j^^  ^  u'  h. -crretlections 
should  make  them  reject?  ^  '/^^,,;',''\,,  ,,,  magazine  re- 
on  readwig  an  article  o'^l'^^^^V  V/^"'  ;"  ,,,,  the  •'•eneral 
Suu-kable  tor  the  talent  of  ff^^l^^^l^l  M<^dhly.' 
tone  of  its  articles.  I  refer  ^^ /I'';  .;^,;''^^^,,^,, ,,  talented 
The  author  of  this  ^rtic  eJmnselt  av -^  a^-^t  do  ^^  ^^^^^^ 

writer,  Judging  ^--^-^^tltir    ^mi^Si^  Ibr  those 
oomimts  so  many  1-.  n.acis  tiul  u  ,^        ^i,^^jmee  of 

,ompetent  in  th-  ^'^^^;\P^™^1,*^'%  V,  ,  ,^erity,  as  a 
the  ie^.l.rity  of .  l^Unu   .  mi,  whoM^  nt k  to  ^         y, 

musician,  is,  I  tea.,  a«  ^^^J^'VV,;  ^^^  ;:^  „  ,,,e.  And,'lirst, 
of  IJarnum  to  have  hecn  Wa^hmgo    s  n  ^^^^^ 

what  would  you  say  ot  an  «'^  T^^^^  ^^Ji^ory,  of  five 
exact  a  repetition,  ma.le  1^'  ;^  f  ^  \  ^1^  /i^  once?  You 
or  -xt1.ousa.u    words  whch^-;l-  ^^  ^^^^^^^ 

cert^nnly  would  say,  that  an  .m   k  altogether  as 

fnmi  memory  such  a  long  'li^^''^^"^;,  ,  ."^'V  ^vertlK'lcss  my 
phenomenal  as  the  pl^^'-^^^f  ^';^  ;^  ;,t  U^i^i  words  famt 
hypothesis  is  hased  upon  ^^^Vfl'*^;;^;  J,,^'  ^  ,vinc.  relati.Mi 
id  even  to  the  ears  o  a  e  uh  on  -  j^^,,^^^^  ^^,,  i,  ,, 
to  human  passion,  to  it^  inTtic  u 


BUM)  TOM, 


167 


iidscnie  iMl^w 
1,      lie  bill!  an 
KMilder.     'Hil^ 
J  iVoiii  liiri  I't?" 
ilis  Iteluivionr 
Tln'V  won-  all 
soldiers  of  the 
■.     One  of  the 
i-n,  anA  irave  a 
.(\  it  with  two 
em  somothiuir, 
myself.    Thise 
renee  Unil  ^toi- 
•ar  have  unhap- 


;em  to  posses;^  a 
;,u  ait  ;n'(linary 
u  a*4^- '^^y  enter 
,1-  the  lao.^t  part 
heir  good  sen^e 
tho-e  retieetions 
a  vuag-azine  re- 
iin<l  *he  general 
a:,!i.'   Monthly.' 
doi'j!  atahiuted 
maiiV  erroiv  and 
lossible  for  those 
jr  continuance  of 
o  posterity,  as  a 
f  the  old  negress 
iirse.     And,  iirst, 

0  should  declare 
memory,  of  live 

[hut  once?    You 
,ahle  of  verifying 

1  he  altogether  aa 
Nevertheless  my 
is  in  words  farni- 

rs  having  relation 
bctions.  that  is  to 


sav,  oil  things  wliich  all  conipreliend,  know,  and  \'vv\,     Jhit 
with  Tom  wc  liave  to  deal  with  music,  tliat  is  to  sav,  an  art 
whose  suhtilty  must  necessarily  escape  tlie  profane.  "  'Tom,' 
says  tlie  autlior,  'repeats  tlic  pic'ce  iV.ini  meniorv.'     This  i'^ 
Hupposmg,  what  is  not  proved,  tliat  Tom  had  iio"knowle(hvo 
ot  the  piece  ;  what  was  the  piece  ?     If  it  was  siniplv  one  of 
those  known  melodies  with  its  invariahic  dress  of  varia- 
tions consecrated  by  long  usage,  T  sliall  astonish  no  person 
In;  remarking,  that  any  diild  studying;  music  and  endowed 
witli  a  good  musical  ori,''anism,  does  as  much  vwvy  (hiy 
If  tlie  i.iece  is  difHcult  and  complicated,  I  absolutely  chab 
lenge  the  competency  of  the  i.ul)!ic  to  judge  the  correct 
accuracy  of  its  reproduction.      The  writer  of  the  article 
will  pardon  me  for  telli'ig  him  that  he  recalls  to  me  an 
audience  that  I  saAV  assembled,  to  be  jiresent  at  a  most  ex- 
traordinary thing  that  a  mathematical   i)henomenon  was 
about  to  perform,  which  was  instantaneously  fi-om  memory 
to  resolve  the  most  complicated  jiroblems.    ':Mr.  Ampet-e  of 
the  Academy  proposed  a  most  diihcult  problem  to  liini. 
J  he  infimt  prodigy  gave  him  an  answer,  and  tlie  audience 
applauded  with  contidence  to  the  skies,    lie  might  have  an- 
swered whatever  he  wished,  the  honest  people  dul  not  know 
a  word  of  algebra,  and  ingenuously  thouirbt  that  what  they 
heard  was  really  marvellous.     I  will  go'further  and  aiHrm 
that 'Yankee  ])oodle' can  be  played 'in  five  hundred,  six 
hundred,  or  one   thousand    dltterent  wavs,  proA-ided    tlie 
theme  is  generally  preserved,  without  more  than  ten  in   he 
audience  perceiving  the  least  ditference. 

December. 

Invariably  at  every  concert  a  small  note  of  Tattcs  de 
:jIouches'  mpiests  me  to  i)lay  '  Last  Hope.'  The  other 
day  I  received  one  comiwsed  as  follows:  "Mr.  G.,  voui'  -;i 
t'il  l)ien  faire  le  plaisir  a  3(5  jeunes  filles  de  jouer  la  '  i)en ^  e 
Esperance'  qu'elles  jouent  toutes." 

At  Cleveland  the  cold  is  intense,  the  north  wind  M'<,vs, 
the  lake  roars.  To  comi)lete  our  misfortune  we  o-o  ,.avii 
to  the  'Augier  House,' where  it  appeal's  that  the '^)l. I  pro- 
prietor has  sold  out,  and  the  new  lias  not  yet  takci  i.osses- 
siou ;  wx>  fall  uito  an  interregnum,  that  is  to  say,  soK.ething 


T 


I 


^^.g  NOTES  OF  A  PfAMST. 

„1,H,  U  not  -an4,y,.™t,-<™-!'|;;'X  Jl^tt 

g„anl  in  tW  1«-'P;  J"';^  i!  t,  Xa    '  .t,"mi,ml.C  list 
N,.v..,-tla.lc.s.  w..  final Iv  ..l.tau, ;      fV/,,;''   .,,,,, t  not 

:v,;!a't  b-vl'  :;li"l'-cl.    ^venturing  u  .  ival  mnark, 

we  arc  insulted. 

MvnisoN,  Wisconsin,  December,  18G2. 

olic-)  and  the  marble  capitol  are  superb. 

December  12,  1862. 

Mon.c.i,no„r  ti.e  A,-.,i.w,o,,  of  c''n™:-;;,„f,v?';i:;!;;j: 

produces  upon  the  masses,     i^^ J ^^  ^"\^  ^.^,  ,,,.,.,.,  hi,vu.? 

.icn  to  tl.e  discussion  ^^   /^^^^^^^^^^^^^  heard  that 

Itali.m  --^^V„i^\;:;r;  1^  ^^^illsllop  in  a  theatric.! 
an  actor  wh..  *^"^'^\//'',^,  V''*^  „the  ri<.ht  arm  during  tlie 
play  was  struck  with  I  '""'^^/^fV/nd "lie  ad.led,  r>ehold 
toin-es.>tation-''a  pid^nt  of  <^^^^;^^ ^,  u.Ued 

-;-;StLM££^^^ 

tiers   ot   ignorant    L  Itramontanes. 


Bosidos,  the 
liotol  wo  are 
intervals  un<l 
s  too  soon  tor 

you  stand  on 
in  at  a  uivi-u 
■nninal)!*'  list 
i\  any  of  tlioni. 
,atitte.  but  not 
■e  ])rutU'nt  not 
in  tlio  ratio  of 
iviul  remark, 

December,  18G2. 

voars  old,  and 
itliedral  (Catli- 

uember  12,  1862. 

iti  last  Sunday 
near  the  tenor. 
•tises  tolerance, 

sipirit  of  Turi- 
ous  that  ho  can 
ottVH'ts  whieh  it 
iniself  for  never 
or  never  having; 
11  read  a  play  of 
;  to  his  aiulienee 
',  and  made  allu- 
Meaux  with  an 
A'ing  heard  that 
ip  in  a  theatrical 
-  nrm  durinsz;  the 

added,  F^hold 
ni  in  the  United 

of  the  Shakers; 
louters  of  eamp- 
erannuated  thun- 
!   I   have  visited 


IIUS/I  KMKIRA  TIOX. 


1(19 


Canada  and  have  been  able  to  ineasuj-e  tlic  dej^ree  of  bnitish- 
ni'Srf  to  wliich  the  al)soluto  reiyii  of  I'aitli  as'understood  by 
tlie  -Nhiri.st  futliers  and  the  ISulpicians  can  lead  a  people,  I 
tremble,  on  sceinu;  tbe  Irish  emii>-ration  increased  in  a  ratio 
tliat  threatens  to  overrun  the  whole  L'nited  States;  it  is  the 
saddest  of  all  on  account  of  the  ignorance,  tho  brutal  in- 
stincts, and  the  blind  and  ferocious  superstition  of  all  the 
Irish.  I  however  do  not  know  whieh  I  should  fear  the  more, 
the  fanatics  of  tho  liible  or  the  fanatics  of  Rome.  The  i'uri- 
taiis  are  as  ral)id  as  the  monks  of  the  tifteenth  century.  They 
think  only  of  proseljy-tism,  and  of  the  propagation",  in  sjiite 
of  everything,  of  their  iiiitli.  Like  all  other  fanatical  sects, 
they  have  forgotten  the;  spirit  to  attach  themselves  to  the 
mere  letter.  In  18.')fi,  in  the  State  of  Xew  York,  individual 
suliscribers  had  furnished  more  than  onelunidred  thousand 
dollars  for  tho  purpose  of  printing  Bibles !  It  is  impossiblo 
to  be  serious  in  thinking  on  the"  results  obtained  bv  these 
immense  efforts!  Fifty  tliousand  Mibles  sent  to  "(Miina, 
six  thousand  liibles  to  ChancU'rnagore,  tivt'  thousand  little 
books  to  the  coast  of  Africa— and  in  Eiii^lish.  Is  it  not  a 
monomaiua,  and  ought  not  this  wav  of  untierstanding 
religion  to  be  cured  by  cold-water  batlis? 

Indianapolis,  I)ecoml)€)r  If). 

Alongside  of  my  own  chamber  I  have  that  of  a  major, 
who  has  been  sit-k  for  two  months.  He  is  under  an  indict- 
ment for  disobeying  the  orders  of  liis  superior.  Ff)ur 
soldiera  are  on  guard  in  tho  corridor,  and  two  sentinels 
gnard_  his  door.  Tho  State  of  Indiana  has  a  formidable 
1  larty  in  favour  of  the  rebellion.  One  of  the  soldiers  couijhed 
horribly.  I  offered  him  a  lozenge,  which  has  cured  mcTof  a 
cold  ihmi  which  I  was  suffering  greatly  for  some  da  vs.  He 
accepted  it  with  thanks.     At  tho  moment  of  swallowiu"-  it. 


one  of  his  comrades  said  to  me,  distrustfully,  "  Ah,  li; 


a  I  are 


you  not  a  secessionist!     We  shall  die  soon  enous^h  without 
your  coming  to  poison  us."     Poor  unfortunates'! 

The  snow  has  been  let  loose  over  the  whok'  countrv  that 
I  have  travelled  through  for  the  List  two  days  (IVoni  Ken- 
tucky to  Indiana).  I  "think  with  heart-breaking  of  the 
wretched  men  in  the  iield ;  of  thousands  of  men'without 
shelter,  sleeping  on  the  snow,  and  not  ha\ing  even  a  blanket. 
15 


5!jf 


170 


NOTKS  OF  A  iV-lAVSr. 


!  ;  .  .um.vnt^.  Uur  aVtilUTy  al..  h  nmn.nsc,  and  I  do 
not    0 Uovc-  that  finer  i-oxM  he  louiul  in  iMjrope. 

F  r  t'  ur  lay«  the  tolof^Taph  ha.  hcen  gnu.g  us  eventful 
now   ot     "re  t^natlo  uhtd>  i.  h.ing  lonj;'ht  at  1^  rc-.lenek  - 

,^.  Tin'  whole  tWrc-e  of  two  great  armies  are  engj.ge  • 
'n^resi  1  i-^  still  un.Uri.le.1.  Thr  earnag.  will  he  trightiul. 
^'^-^S' ing>.hu- audien,..  I  n.et  with!  ^__.  on  .an  unagjue 


.-1  yi I'p^U  u  din  o  iuti;^..  nn.st  he,  whi.h,  i^.un.led 
m  f^^n  m' e  ght  years  a^o,  nevertheless  give  receipt.  <>f 
?1  v(  oi  four  Imndred  dollars,  and  sometimes  inore.  1  he 
^ Ui  ^en^  an  honest  former  asked  me,  helore  the  ec^nec.^ 
Pnling  to  my  piano,  what  t^uit  M.ig  ^--J^-- ^  ^^^^^  ^ 

da.H-iug  whieh,  lor  two  hours  and  a  M^^^tf  ^  f^^ou   h^ 
un  inexhaustible  mireo  of  amusement.      Ihey  weie  on 
front  henches,  and  greatly  auiK)yed  uie. 

\Vhnt  witl    diilieulty  T  become  accustomed  to  aie  the 

;r„:^'h^;.  .bo"  S  L  ..ot  .W,,,,.!  o„ly  in  .1,0  oonoo.t 
,         me  olv  siwik  of  tliom  by  way  of  Im-monab 

tbo  ba-aat'O  oav  »"<!  t'lo  1"«.  oar  ot  tbo  tpni.    (  oita  n  n.  t 
.  lisSmTon.l  tliat  inscots  rctioct  in  tlion-  i>by»lol<.gloul  oon- 

U^ctl.  eSeuds  a.  lar  a.  piuidst.)  I  ought  to  have  the  gait  oi 


mi  old  lionton- 
ly  inspL'otcMl  in 
t'tc'on  now  ivgi- 
ago  he  told  1110 
oiisc,  and  1  do 
[)po. 

iiig  us  eventful 
t  lit  Fredericks- 
j8  are  eutjiiged. 
nil  1)0  tVigh'tVul. 
■()\i  can  iniagino 
which,  founded 
give  receipts  of 
IK'S  more.     The 
sfore  the  concert, 
rdeou  was."    Ho 
the  tail  hothercd 
'ille,  a  charining_ 
ssed  the  whole  of 
lid  not  know  the 
outs  only  a  kind 
unitary  stops   in 
or,  afforded  them 
riiey  wero  on  the 

omed  to  are  the 
f  is  heri'  aii[ilauso 
mus  and  the  voice 
rse  to  whistling, 
in-ive  late  at  the 
nruUUe  of  a  piece, 
for  a  hattalion  of 
1  talk  during  the 
lily  ill  the  concert 
memorial, 
iincwhere  l)et\veen 
liii.    Certain  natu- 
physiological  con- 
0  \vgotation  upon 
this  peculiarity  of 
to  have  the  gait  of 


If 


GOTTSCIIM.K  AUOVT  TO  MA/my.  jy| 

n  locomotive  and  the  intelliu-onco  cf  i,  hand-hex  \II 
notions  ..t  tune  and  sjiace  arc  etl'acod  fn.m  my  mind,  .hist 
Ike  tJio  drunkanl,  cf  wlu.iu  seme  one  asked  tlio  distance 
Ijotween  tlic  Chaussee  d'Antiii  and  the  I'orte  .St.  Jknis 
W.O  replied,  -ten  small  ^lassc^."  If  vou  ask  mo  wha^ 
tunc  It  18, 1  will  reply,  "It  is  time  to  shut  up  mv  trunk  " 
or  ;  is  time  to  play  the  banjo,"  or  "It  is  time  t.  put  ..'.i 
my  Mack  coat."  Those  throe  events  arc  vei-v  noarlv  the 
most  mon,..,a  ,lo  of  my  daily  existence.  I  <.„,.s„le  niyself 
by  thinking  that  I  am  not  the  only  one  of  my  spcries. 

CmcAoo,  December  20. 

L>i?.ll':!.yi''i''^  '"av-,!"  ^^^i')^-""'^'^'^^  P'M't-'-  (^^'is<•onsi„)  that 
Auii.iKl  htorr  W  illis,  m  his  magazine  of '(Jikv  a  Month  ' 
ai'noM,ic,.s  that  "(jottschalk  is,  it  is  said,  about  to  marry  u 
young  lady-a  millionaire-of  Xew  York."  JVrmit  mo  to 
assort  that  the  news  is  not  true,  h'eci.iv,.  the  assurance  of 
It,  n  mv  Inonds,  with  all  the  affliction  winch  I  have  in 
pving  It  t(.  you.  No,  alas!  \  have  not  this  moment  the 
least  hope  of  ever  attaining  that  oasis  in  life  which  is  called 
mai'riage.  I  have  not  yet  arrived  at  tiiat  blest  haven,  where 
after  so  many  storms  and  t-mposts  I  might  cast  anchor,  and 
my  ,P>;>H-ceo/>,da>tciH  a  myth,  uhich,  as  I  advance  along 
tlie  iirul  path  of  celibacy,  becomes  more  and  more  faI)ulous. 
is  It  not  sad.^  and  are  we  not  worthy  of  j.itj-— we  old 
bachelors  who,  ike  stray  travellers,  see  the  fatal  time  draw 
near  wlioii  we  sjiall  remain  alone  on  the  road  of  life  ?  ^Vo 
must  travel  the  desolate  way  whi.ai  still  separates  us  f.'om 
the  sovoroigi,  goal,  without  a  holy  love  to  partake  our  joys 
and  our  griefs,  or  a  friendly  arm  to  sustain  us  in  our  last 

ilOU''S. 

Xot  being  al)le  to  do  better,  I  console  myself  by  tliinkine 
on  the  muse,  the  eternal  bri.lc  .Iways  young,  always  con- 
stant for  those  who  lovo  her,and  whose  .'baste  caresses  defy 
the  outrages  of  time.  For  her,  there  are  no  old  bachelors, 
no  wrinkles,  no  white  hairs,  no  winter  ..f  life,  but  the  per- 
petual sprniir-time  of  ilh.sions.  8ho  .weetly  shigs  in  my 
heart  lUiirve  lous  things  which  ravish,  console,  and  sootho 
niy  griot,  and  her  seductions  are  „^  powerful  at  the  close  as 
at  tlie  dawn. 

■Hut  I  i.orcei\-e  that  T  liavo  become  pathetic,  and  after 


r 


.-2  SOTHS  or  A  riAMST. 

invih  t.)  whom  I  am  .uiiajiv.!.  j 

'iWtwoeu  S.)iith  Am.Ti.-aan.l  tlu"  I  nitul  ^^-y*^  "  '       , 

mwM  was  iiiv  ti-a  to  (hue  'e/'w^/e/r  \n  Uli  an  (>  huuu  ■ 
'■■■"'■'  'rr ''X:"  '"t,>,  '  Un.S  '"wX  ;';';  anxi,.,   he 


J. 


f 


<  /IKWaO  A.\/>  MII.WM  Kit:. 


17;3 


.liislu's,M'fniiii!i; 
VI'  ju.*t  wrilli'H, 
lias  litrii  ail  "lil 
ciiniiici-  iK'ri'>il'i- 
ilio  initial  (.t'tlio 

States  it  lias  so 
a.l,  tiiat  if  "MJy 
•Vi'iits,  (•!'  wliifh 
I,  I  should  liii\«-' 
o\vs,  ami  shtiiiM 
to  Utah  to  avoid 

lo;:;islatioii. 
le  till-  poor  devil 
ij»ty  stoiiiai'h  and 
III  oimli'iit  iiohk- 
rdad.  The  tal)U' 
(I  vossols  of  jrold 
astor  of  the  house 
hnis  de  tiiisan  is 
fasto  of  this  wine 
lascus  are  divine," 
jsentud  the  plates 

,  and  wine  from 
rd  of  Hajrdad  pre- 
,  foi-tuiiate  follow! 
and,  ahovc  all,  do 
iroeeed. 

1  i!^  suffering  the 
ties  and  deeaiiters 
t  ]ireveiit  the  host 
i-olish  the  empti- 
s  witli  anxiety  the 
lore  fortunate,  hut 
list  of  all  the  usual 
hadow  of  any  food 
he-  tahle,  his  spirit 
i  of  this  iuiagiimry 


inorc  liiniiri'v   than 


repast,  hilt   with  iiiipty  slonmch   an' 

t'Vt'l'. 

I  am  the  dervish  and  the  newspapers  wlii.h  niairv  ine 
to  tiiiK'iful  youiig  heiiv-ses  are  so  many  opulent  iiuhli'meh 
of  iiagdad,  and  yoii  will  discover  llie  moral  to  my  eost 
without  my  assistance,  and  as  I  slmll  lie  accused  of  writing 
williout  any  reason  what  possesses  as  little  siihstance  as  the 
repast  oH'cred  to  the  dervish,  I  hasten  to  speak  ahoiit  my 
eonrerls  at   Chieago,  which  have  heeii  very  suhstaiitial  as 

t'>  liie  ■• •  I  have  given  tlu'n  four  concerts,  and  must 

retiir.  le  (  Hiiorrow  to  give  the  tinii  and  last.  Chicau'o, 
of  all  ihe  Western  cities,  is  the  one  which  most  resemliles 
New  York.  It  is  animated  and  tlourisliing,  one  feels  tli.il  it 
is  young,  full  of  sap,  and  asks  nothing  hetter  than  to  enjoy 
life.  It  possesst's  (aste  and  enthusiasin,  I  think  of  a  hiu'lier 
standard  than  all  the  other  cities  in  this  section  of  conntrv. 
What  I  also  prefer  \\\  it  is  that  it  is  exempt  from  that  pro- 
vincialism which  oiu'  leels  the  more  in  proportion  as  one 
leaves  the  intellectual  focus  of  tlie  I'nited  States. 

The  ludies  wear  licre  heautiful  furs.  The  commerce  in 
furs  is  eonsiderahle.  They  come  hy  land  from  the  IJussian 
possessions  iii^\merica.  The  ladies  who  always  possess  u 
fertile  inventive  genius  when  it  concerns  then-  clothing, 
have  foiind  means  to  render  their  enormous  t'lir  lioniieTs 
^U-racenil,  in  which  they  miitHo  themselves  this  winter. 
These  hats  remind  me  of  the  skin  cap  of  the  drum-major, 
hut  Hatt.'r  and  terminating  in  a  kind  of  fox's  tail  wliich 
hangs  over  the  neck. 

The  stores  are  immense.  In  one  hlock  alone  I  eounted 
live  tiishionahlc  warehouses  which  are  each  five  stories  hiirh 
and  employ  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  clerks.  The  sin'rill 
merchants  from  the  interior  of  the  ti-rritories  among  the 
iSrornions  como  here  at  the  hegiiming  of  winter  to  inaki- 
their  [airehases. 

Milwaukee,  Wisconsin,  has  00,000  inhahitants,  splendid 
residences,  ])arks,  marhle  fountains,  etc.  A  female  furrier 
j.aid  me  a  visit.     She  is  the  daughter  of  the  Comtesse  de 

~-     9"  learning  that  I  knew  the  Grande  Duchesse  Anne 

de  Kussio  she  however  hecame  more  reserved,  and  I  thoutrht 
she  was  afraid  that  I  might  discover  that  her  title,""  of 
which  she  makes  here  a  great  display,  is  uot  as  legitiuiate 

15* 


'f: 


i . 

1 1 


174 


SOTKS  OF  A  I'LWfST. 


ns  luT  Alsatinn  iw.vnt  which  hIh-  it.  vain  nought  to  .■...ktuI. 
It  is  .vi.mrkal.l..  that  >,h..o.t  nil  the  K.issuu.s  u  h<.  ...v  ... 
A.n.ri.-..  nn  ('......ts,  just  as  ah..ost  all  th.  '''''^l!'''';;  ^^^  '"I 

Miiitlt'lsrtohii. 


CllAPTKH  VTT. 

Nrw  York,  Duc«m1)«T,  1802. 
I  „  \v..;  iust  tiiiisht..!  (it  is  hnnlly  two  hou.-s  suu.  _1  have 
a.-.MVi'.l  ill' Now  Vo.-k)  .ny  last  to...-  ot  (•....(■(«.-ts  loi'  this  >i-a- 
so  uv.  uivc...  c.iohty-tivc.  .-...■o.-ts  ...  to...-  ..,o„ths  a..  I 

alf.     I  hau.  t.-avc.iK.rtiftcr.,  tho..sa.>.l  .....Ics  o.    ho  ....1- 
...a.l      At   St.  Louis  r  travo  sc-vcii  (-....(v.-ts  ui  six  <la,ys;  a 
'   i   ,.n,,  live,  i.,  fou.-  .lays.     A  tbu-  wcrUs  n.o.v  u.  this  way 
a,      r^houl.l  have  hm.me  an  i.liot!     1  .j-. lee.,  ho... -s  a  ;  a 
"the  n.ilroaa!     A.-.-ive  ..t  sc-ven  o  Vloek  ^      -  ;;-;  ^2' 
oat  with  all  si.ee<l,ai.i.ea.-  at  ei.uht  o  eloek  heU  iv  the  imhU  . 
Tho  lust   U.>te  ti..isl[e;i,  .-..Sh    quiekly  to."    ...V  l"^'^f  ^N/       . 
rn    ro„te  ..ntil  next  <h.y  to  .veo.nn.e.ue  always  the  >. 
thiuL'l     I  hav.  l.eeo..,e  st,.i.i<l  with  .t.     T  have  the  ai^e    - 
ue .  of  an  a..to...ato..  ..n.lei-  the  iutineuee  ot  a  yolta.e  p.le 
M     tin^-ers  n.ove  o..  the  keylx.anl  with  love.-.sh  heat,  and 
?.     the  ...o.uent  it  is  not  ,.ossihle  for  n.o  to  hea.<  the  n.ns.e, 
w  tl.ont  exnei-ieu.-in-  son.ethhi-  of  the  sensation  ot  th  t 
,!   ..>•  AuLule.-  i)„nias  .///>•,  eo...len...ea  tor  o.ie  n.ou  1. 
t.,,at  uothii,.^  l.nt  ,.i..eo,.._    The  si^ht  ot  ^^-^^^^'^ 
hail-  on  e.i.l   like   the  viet.ni  u.  •l..vsenee  ol  the  ^^  heel  ( 

•   U-h  he  is  ahout  to  he  to.-ture.l.     Wh.lst  my  h.,,irers  are 
t      s   .n<.vin,%  my  thought   is   elsewhere.       Ilai.l..er     ha, 
V  pool-  nu,el,i,.s  it  ti-avei-ses  the  tieal,  a-id  .ees  again  t We 
clJa.'  Antilles,  where  I  -a^•e  t.-an-imlly  a  lit  le  ..mee.-t  eNe  j 
two  or  three  nonths  eomfortahly,  without  tat.o-u...g  iny-^^'^n 
where  I  slept  for  weeks  the  sleep  of  the  spirit,  so  aelie.ous 
^    pootieal   in  .he  n.i.lst  of  the  volnptu.nu.  a..d  enerva  n.j^ 
atmosphere  of  those  happy  lan.ls  of  the  vl). .lee  tar  niente 
"  juwe  la/.v  hree/es  m..r.iu..-ing  softly  hear  o..  the..-  wn.gs 
the  lunguid  and  di.ta.it  harmonies  of  the  eouutiy,  and  whose 


Itjllt    to  COlHTlll. 

iiiis  u  lio  iirt'  ill 

iiiiisiriaiis  wild 

<  of  S|iolir  ami 


,  nt'CciiilxT,  1B«52. 
)iirs  mwv  I  liiivc 
•crts  t'o!'  this  M'li- 
foiir  iiioiitlis  au«l 
iiik's  oil  tlu-  niil- 
iii  t*ix  <liivs;  at 
more  in  this  way 
ilccn  hours  a  <lay 
:  ill  tho  owning, 
lit'lorotht'imhrK'. 
my  hiiijrairt'i  iii"l 
always  the  samu 
liavo  the  aiiiaar- 
of  a  voltaic  pil*-'. 
c'voi-ish  heat,  ami 
o  hoar  tho  mnsic, 
sensation  of  that 
(I  for  Olio  month 
'  a  jiiano  sots  my 
>  of  tho  whool  on 
1st  my  lintroi's  are 
liai>l>ier    than 
1(1  sees  a<i;ain  thoso 
ittlo  coiioert  every 
t  iiitigning  myself, 
qiirit,  so  tlolioions, 
ins  and  enervaliny; 
■  Dolec  far  nieiito,' 
r.\r  on  their  winy-s 
jonntry,  and  whoso 


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1.6 

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"*^f 


THE  CHARMiya  YOUNG  GIRL. 


(.J 


quiot  and  droaniy  1)inls  soom  novor  to  jirouse  from  tlio  con- 
toiiii»liiti<)ii  of  ail  tho  inarvi'ls  of  tliis  tiTrt'strial  paradise 
(.■xcrpt  to  lovo  and  to  slcvj..  What  an  awakcnini!;  for  nie 
aitcr  five  years  of  tliis  trojiical  gypsy  life! 

Tho  libertines  ].lease  tliomseUes  witji  peopliiiij  their 
panidise  with  a  crowd  of  imaginary  liouris.  1  do  not 
imagine  mine  oxe^'pt  imder  tlie  exjiress  proliil)itioii  of 
giving  a  concert  under  tlic  penalty  of  being  precipitated  into 
l)iirg.itory.  By  way  of  retaliation  helT  ought  to  be  the 
general  entrepot  for  all  the  harpsichords  little  and  .n-eat, 
past  and  future.  This  perspective  freezes  me  with  terror.' 
_  I  have  taken  some  notes  during  the  lony;  hoiirs  of  travel 
111  the  West.  They  are  written^  o)  coimiiif,  and  I  shall 
have,  myself,  trouble  in  decii.hering  them  from  thi'  leaves 
ot  my  memorandum.  Tlie  jolt  ot'the  railroad  makes  mv 
lead  i.encil  describe  all  sorts  of  fantastic  iigures;  there  are 
zig--/,ags,  hieroglyphics,  and  Gothic  catliedral  steepl(>s. 

tor  some  time  I  had  wished  to  give  three  *'oncerts  in 
one  day  (F  had  already  done  it  at  8t.  Louis,  and  T  claim,  in 
detault  of  other  merit,  to  bo  the  first  ].ianist  wlio  has  ac- 
oomi)lished  this  tnar  deforce  m  America),  but  the  (piesHon 
was  of  three  concerts  echelor.ned  over  a'route  of  one  hun- 
drc;(l  miles.     Leaving  Xew  York  in  the  morniiii--  I  arrived 
at  Aewark,  a  matinee  aimounced  at  noon ;  haiPthere  com- 
plete success;  at  one  and  a  half  o'clock  I  took  the  train 
tor  Albany  M-liere  a  second  concert  was  to  take  place  at 
half  i)ast  four  o'clock;  the  third  was  to  be  at  Trov,  and 
Ava.s  not  to  commence  until  eiirht  o'clock  in  the  evening. 
So  far  everything  went  well,  "but  man  projioses  and  (icMl 
disposes!"     I  had    hi  tlie  car  for  neiiibbours  a  charmiiif-- 
young  gnd  and  her  mother,  both  hanii)ered  with  boxe^, 
umbrellas,  and  other  movable  utensils,  embarrassinii',  invad- 
ing,   calamitous,   without   whicli   no    female   havTuir   any 
respect  tor  herself  could  ornament  the  interior  ofn  i-ar. 
ihey  stopped  at  Fishkill.     On  seeing  them  i-vt  up  I  did 
us  much  under  the  influence  which  two  prettv  eyes  always 
exercise,  and  rushed  out,  my  heart  in  mv  mouth*,  my  ri'du 
arm  gracefully  bent  (the  left  carried  a  c-age  and  a  J-aiun-y 
another  feminine  article  which  I  liad  fortrotten  to  mention 
iiithe  inventory  of  tliese  ladies  an<l  which  I  had  heroically 
seized),  I  ottered  my  hantl  to  them  to  descend.     Here,  my 


I' 


I! 


1% 


170 


NOTES  OF  A  PI  Ay  1ST. 


n.a.l.rs    mav  interrupt    inc   to   s.y  tl.nt    my  ^t^JP. ;;;;;;<; 
an.usiuLC  and  lu.s  ....thin.^  extraoraumry  in  it.     A\  a.t  tlu  n . 

^W^U'^-i..'  H  is  iustwLat  tl.c  hu-omotive  di.l  uot  .lo. 
In^;  '  in  s  ot'tlu.  ouu-tosics  of  n.y  tmvclhn.  .o|n,^,uons 
n u    ot     ho  little  ro>..rn,tnl  ..onycrsatun;  wl.u  i     o^^c.a  to 

u;hhni>r  that  _  .     .  a  hoiuititul 


smtcl     to   Strakosch   oommomling   to   lum  luB  doav 


^Jrs/c,  A  FAsmoxAnLE  lualhy. 


177 


y   stow    is  lii>t 

.       WiUttlu'Ul 

vo  (litl  not  do. 

Ilir  collllliUlioilS 

hull  1  owotl  to 
•(■  (hit  .  .  • 
r  pri'tty  tiling's 
luoc't  hi'iuitiful 
iictor  had  fried 
<oc'  thu  last  car 
I'oiidl 

;m"!i'airo  at  Fish- 

tVoiii  any  hal)i- 

t  Alhany  in  an 

half  pity  J"^'' 
two  ]iriiH't'ssosl 

is  walkini;'  with 

et   tlu'iu  at  thc 

back  to  nu-  and 

110  of  1km- irii-ndri 

thonsand  tender 

tty  phaeton  (the 

ves  ott"  rapidly, 

)  that  of  Arahia 

alone,  and  liiyen 

onience  of  beinj^ 

ii)  I-\villiievi'r  be 

it  Avith  the  wintl- 

ijnre.     Firndn,  I 

isses  in  packing, 

and  who  seems 
,  tender  atfectiini 
A-e.  It  was  fonr 
)lv  full,  lie  sent 
to  him  his  dear 
it.  I,  for  myself, 
it  and  inimitable 
ies,  and  of  so  many 

spoken  to  me  of 
turehased  on  the 
little  lad  was  dis- 


^u^  ^J  •"  7T'  ^"'''^"•'  "  ^•"n-"ter,  worked  for 
Un  icl,  I  again  t.u.k  conrago,  and  o-iviu.-  s,.mc  n.oncv 
to  the  boy,  ma.le  him  <.on,luct  n.e  to'  Chim.l.-s  residon;:! 
rp?'^'  l'"'''''^'''  '"  cliarnuiiir  affcrnoc.n. 
hen.  IS  u  class  of  UKlivi.luals  for  whom  th.  arts  are  only 
a  fashionable  luxury, and  music,  in  particular,  an  a-reeablc 
no,..  ,^,1  ,legant  superHuify  that  •.grceably  v^yW^i^, 

u.h  serves  to  hll  up  the  interval  that  sei-arates  the  linu" 

b.rlenioiuK le  iron,  the  time  for  supper.     For  them  all       i- 

soph.cal  discussions  on  the  aesthetic,  of  art,  are  no  nl.'re 

1  an   puer. hues,  analogcns  to  that  of  the  fairy  wlio  oecu- 

ie.l  herselt  in  weighm.-- strains  ofMust  in  a  seale  ..f  spider's 

o  •]  V'V'lV'^i  ^^r  '•'"""'  ^^''-oogh  a  prejudice  which 
.Uoe,.  hack  to  the  barbarism  ..f  the  Alid.lle  Ai-vs,  thev  ner- 
sist  m  reb.sing  a  ,.lace  in  the  higher  sphere  of  social  order) 
me  or  them  only  merchants  of  the  lowest  rank  who  trade 
.  .piestionablo  products,  the  most  of  the  time  awkwardly, 
since  they  rarely  make  a  ibrtune.  "^ 

Performers  are  for  them  mountelianks  or  jutrglers,  who 
ply  the  agihty  of  their  han.ls,  like  daiu-er.    oi-  aero  as 
thatot   their  legs.     The  paintc..-,  whose  c^./^./-..»...  eleco! 
i.Ke  tlie  wall  ot  their  saloons,  tigares  hi  the  budi-vt  of  their 
expenses  un.ler_  the  same  title  with   the  upho£terer  ^ho 
has  covered  their  lloor  with  anAnbnsson;  and  if  they  w.re 
ieit  to  themselves  they  would  value  according  to  fho  price 
ot  the  canvas  and  the  oil,  the  'Heart  of  the  Ande.<  of 
Church  or  the  'Le  Maivheaux  Chevaux' of  Kosa  J5onlieur. 
it  IS  not  lor  these,  wh..  are  disinlierited  by  tho.io.ht,  tliat  I 
write   but  there  are  others,  and  it  is  to  those  that  J  address 
myself,  wlio  recognize  in  the  artist  the  privileged  instrument 
ot  a  moral  and  civilizing  influence,  and  who  appreciate  art 
because    hey  draw  from  It  pure  and  unspeakable  enjoy- 
ment;  who  respect  i.,  because  it  is  the  highest  expressii 
of   human   thought  aspiring   towards  the   Eternal    Lb'al 
and  love  it  as  the  trien<l  into  whose  bosom  they  lu.ur  their 
joys  and  their  griefs  to  find  there  a  faithful  cclio  of  the 
emotions  ot  tlieir  soul. 

Lamertine  lias  rightly  said,  "La  mtisi.pio  est  la  litterattire 
(Iti  c(e_ur,  elle  commence  lA  on  finit  la   i.arole."     Indeed 
music  IS  a  psycho-i.hysical  pheuomoiion.     It  is  in  its  essence 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 

f,nn  nn.l  in  Us  (lovclopmont  an  ideal.  It  Huffieo.,  not 
a  -^^'"^f '7'.J'\" .  "\,  ,,  a,,.stuna  at  least  to  po.ve.y.MnnsK-. 
to  1)0  (leal,  it  not  to  unuci  ^,,l„nitte(l  to  its  i!\tlnonee-, 

Idiots  and  ^^^^rVi!:'Z'l^^r<^^^^^'^  "^'^"^"^  ^^ 
not  beini?  eontmed  to  t  le  P'^^''^  /'  ,  ^-  ^1,^  ^oul,  music 
a  word,  a.Hl  -^pa^sstng  o.dy  1  c  ;  |  "^/^J  \  ,^^,  ,a,. 'assin.i- 
l.as  the  itdvantatjeover  1  tcrat     t  o^^O  «ontinients 

1,,,  it  to  Ids  <f "  r'^«^^\^"^' ^;1.;  •  t(i  ,in  the  intelleetual 
which  donnnate  hun.  1>  )  onn  u  '''^^  ■  illimitable  in 
order  of  things,  to  t lie  ''^'"^''^J^Zm.  innate,  un.le- 
that  of  the  iinairmation.  It  ""^^^^^J;;  ),;,  ri,„f  Litoni- 
Ilnable  ieeUng  ^]nA.  ^-VJ^;;-!^^:::^;  aeS.;ndin,,ancl 

tnreisalwaj;s  ^'^'-l^^^'^'^  '  t  Hi  hannlv  with  the  limited 
a.toi-mines  i.j  us  '"n'^^^^^ons       haim    j^  ^^^  .^  ^^^.^._ 

souse  whieh  it  exi.ressea.     ^y       l"  livo  deDending  on  our 
haps  by  turns  objective  «^^< ^  n  '  f    U  is  S^^^^ 
S  te  ot- mind  at  the  time  ^^■e  hear  it     l^^J    J\,.,  i^.ten 
under  the  wholly  V^^y^f^'^.^L^A  warlike 
passively,  ami  it  ^uo-ests  ^    ^.^^^^  I'^J^^  nightingale,  the 

Inaveh,  a  waU/.  !^ ^^''}'\%^^^!^^^^^^^ 

eau-oniatic  scales  imitating  the  mil  mun^  ,ul)ieetivo 

'pastoral  symphony,'  are  f  ^'"^,1  .^^^  ^,;,^  Jon  we  .1  seover 
when,  under  the  intluence  ot  a  ««^^^"    '\^^   ^ "  ,r  psychical 
in  its  general  ^-f^  ^  ^^'S^,;^ror\^v^^^ 
state  and  assimdate  it.     it  ^'^  "/,^;' "t.^^^ 
we  see  reflected  the  ^n^^tions  vh  eh  agUate^^^  ^^^.^^^ 

so  much  the  more  «^f  J^ ^J. ,];," ^i ".'^rc.vhich  is  unfblde(l 
aware  of  it  are  the  r^"l^«^f  9*     '        i  will  explain  myself: 
before  the  eyes  o  our  i«i«f  ""\  ""•  i^^^  tldnking  on  his  dis- 
I'lay  a  melancholy  passage  *«  '  ^^^^J^^^'^'dh^er  mourning 
iant  country,  to  an  ^^l»'^"^^«":^;^]*:^;'^r  ^^^^^^      assured  that 
for  her  child,  to  a  ^'«'n"'^^^^\.^.?^\!^ii  t  ppi^pviate  to  itself 
each  one  of. these  various  f  ;^^;.|\^  ^,,2!^^^    in  them  the 
these  plaintive  harmonies,  and  will  reco„u 
voice  of  its  own  suttering.  ^^.^  ^^,y  that  it  is 

Music  in  itse  t  is  still  a  mj^tery  ,  a  •        ^,^,i 

composed    of    three  P"'^^;^  1!^" '..f 'bS  under  the   .x- 
vhythmical  symmetry. .  ,^;^;^,^_^  .^r^^^^^^^^^  because 


.1  /7/l\v/r.lZ:  AGEST. 


171) 


It  pufficos,  not 
porcc'ivt!  imisic. 
to  Us  ititlnoiuv, 
>tt'(l  iiu'iiniuu;  <>t" 
the  soul,  m|isic 
Olio  can  asshui- 
)  tlie  sontiiiioiitri 
1  the  intollectual 
irt  iHiinitublo  in 
lat  innate,  undo- 
,(;  Idc(d.    Litera- 
(lcrKtaii(Vni!i,  and 
with  the  limited 
contrary,  i^*  l"-'i'- 
ependini!;  on  our 
s  ohjeotivo  when, 
sound,  we  listen 
ions.     A  warlike 
iua;htii)2;ale,  the 
of  the  wind  in  the 

It  is  sul)iective 
ssion,  wo  discover 
ith  our  psychical 
i  mirror  in  which 
3  us  with  a  fidelity 
'cs  without  lieing 
which  is  unfolded 
ill  explain  myself: 
inking  on  his  dis- 
mother  mourning 
(1  he  assured  that 
ipropriate  to  itself 
Tuize  in  them  the 

e  know  that  it  is 
.ir,  vihration,  and 
act  under  the  ex- 
,s  no  sound,  hecause 
5  glass—it  hecomes 
1  vibration.  Take 
c  by  changing  the 


duration  of  eacli  of  the  notes  which  compose  it— v.m  will 
render  if  uiuvcogMizable  and  obscure,  because  vl.ii  have 
destroyeil  its  symmetry. 

JUit  wliv,tlieii,d()  \\i\t  several  liammorsHtrikiiitr  in  cadenco 
make  music  V      They  nevertheless  possess  air,  vii.rati,,,,,  and 

'  I'i  ,^Ml-^A *'"■'"  I'"'  '"■''"'■•^  "*■"  <J'''''l  fi''l<'^'  tlie  ear  so 
agreeaNy  ?  AV  hy  is  the  minor  mode  siiiri.^estive  of  .adiu-s' 
I  here  is  the  mystery  ;  there  the  inexplicable  plu.nomen..i,'. 
\\  e  .l.»_n,..  hesitate  to  say  that  music,  whi.-h.  like  spe,vh, 
is  perccuved  through  the  medium  of  the  ear,  .Iocs  not,  JikJ 
tlie  latter,  cal  upon  the  brain  for  an  explanation  of  the 
sensation  j.rothice.l  by  the  vibration  of  the  nerves;  it 
addresses  itselt  to  a  mysterious  agent  within  us  whieli  is 
snijerior  to  the  intelligeiu-e,  since  it  is  independent  of  it, 
andinakes  us  feel  that  which  it  can  neither  con.-eive  nor 
explain.  Let  us  examine  the  different  attributes  of  musical 
phenomena. 

t 

\.  ]\I,i^;n  h  n  phisieal  agent ;  it  impresses  on  the  body 
shoc^vs  which  shake  the  organs  to  their  base.     In  c'lmn-h/s 
the  flame  ot  the  can.lles  oscillates  to  the  murmuriix^s  of 
the  organ.     A  powerful  ordiestra  near  a  sheet  of  water 
rufl.es  Its  surface.     A  learned  traveller  speaks  of  aii  iron 
ring  which  swi.p  to  the  murmur  of  the  iiills  of  Tiv.li 
In  ^wifKerlaiul,  I  excited  at  will-in  a  poor  child  afflicted 
A    th  a  Irightful  nervous  malady,  hysteric-al  and  cataleptical 
c uses— by  playmg  in  the  minor  key  of  E  flat.     The  learned 
1  octor  Lertier  asserted  that  tlic  sound  of  the  drum  gave 
him  the  colic.     The  sound  of  the  trumpet,  some  physic  ians 
assert,  quickens  the  pulse  and  excites,  although  most  hisen- 
sib  y,  ]K..rspiratioii.     Tlie  sound  of  the  bassoon  is  cold  ;  that 
o     he  P  reiich  horn  at  a  distance,  and  the  remote  harmonics 
ofthe  harp  are  voluptuous.     The  tlute,  played  soffly  in  the 
middle  register  calms  the  nerves.     ThL  low  notes  of      o 
l.iano  fn..hten  little  chil.lren.      I  had  a  dog  who  would 
sleep  on  hearmo:  music,  but  as  soon  as  I  pf^iycl  in  the 
minor  key  would  howl  piteously.      The  dog  of  a  cele- 
brated singer,  Avhom  I  knew,  would  moan  bitterly,  an<l 
give  signs  of  violent  suffering,  when  his  mistress  sang  a 
chromatic  scale.     A  certain  chord  produces  on  my  nerve  of 
Hearing  a  sensation  analogous  to  that  which  the  heliotrope 


180 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAXIST. 


pi'odnotM  on  my  souse  of  wnu'll  nnd  the  iiiiionpiijo  on  Viy 
KcMsc  of  tiisti'.  "^  liiU'liorr*  voice  cliiiniu'd  l>y  its  riiifX  before 
one  l)ii<l  tiiiii'  to  M'i/.c  tlio  Sfiisf  oi  tlio  phruao  or  to  iiiipro- 
ciatc  the  ])uritv  of  lier  <liction. 

We  can  afKVin,  tlu-n,  tliat  nnisical  sonnd,  rliytliniical  or 
not  rliytliniical,  intlucnccs  our  whole  economy:  (juickens 
the  pulse,  sliirlitly  exciti's  iiei-spiration,  and  produces  a 
Hpecics  of  voluptuous  and  transient  irritation  in  our  nervous 
system. 

2.  Mdfiio  is  a  mornl  ngrvt.  Tlirnugh  the  medium  of  the 
nervous  system  it  brinjrs  into  ]play  the  superior  faculties  ; 
its  lansrui'ure  is  that  of  sentiment.  Moreover,  the  ideas 
which  have  presided  over  the  combitintions  of  musical  art 
establish  relations  between  its  comi)Osers  and  the  soul.  AVc 
sidi  with  Bellini  in  the  tinale  of  'La  Sonnambula ;'  -vve 
Hlmdder  with  "Weber  in  the  sublime  phantasmagoria  of 
'  '  Der  Freischutz.'  The  mystical  inspirations  of  Talestrina, 
the  masses  of  Mozart,  transport  us  into  the  celestial  regions 
towards  which  they  rise  like  melodious  incense. 

^lusic  awakens  in  us  reminisrences,  memories,  associa- 
tions. A  celebrated  pianist,  a  friend  of  inine,  related  to 
me  that  he  knew  in  a  citv  where  he  was  giving  concerts  a 
charming  young  girl,  ife  was  twenty  years  old,  with  all 
the  poetic"^ illusions  of  this  romantic  age;  she  was  sixteen. 
They  loved  each  other  without  daring  to  confess  it,  and 
jierhaps  without  knowing  it  themselves.  But  the  moment 
for  parting  came.  lie  was  passing  his  last  evening  at  her 
liouse.  "Watched  hy  the  family,  he  could  scarcely  shako 
hands  with  her  stealthily  at  the  moment  of  bidding  her 
adieu.  Alas !  the  poem  Ijegun  was.  arrested  at  its  first 
pasre  ;  he  never  saw  her  again  ! 

l)isheartened,  fnuitie  with  grief,  after  having  wandered 
at  random  through  the  dark  streets,  he  found  himself  again 
without  knowing  how,  under  her  window,  at  two  o'clock 
in  the  morning."  She  was  also  awake.  Their  thoughts, 
united  by  that  divine  tie  which  merits  the  name  of  love  only 
in  the  morning  of  life,  had  met  together,  for  she  was  play- 
ing softly  in  the  solitude  of  her  chamber  the  first  notes  of 
a  iuazourka  which  tliey  had  dance<l  together.  "I^Iy  tears 
flowed,"  said  he  to  me, "  on  hearing  this  music,  Avhich  seemed 


|)jiio  on  r.iy 

riiij;  bt't'ore 

or  to  iipiiro- 


ythmiciil  or 

y:  (luickc'ii.s 

producos   a 

our  ut'r\'oud 


(lium  of  the 
lor  facultk's  ; 
■r,  tho  iiU'us 

musical  art 
ho  sodl.  We 
[iiiihula ;'  "vvo 
isniagoria  of 
)f  ralestriiia, 
L'rttial  regions 
e. 

)ries,  associa- 
10,  related  to 
iig  concerts  a 

old,  Avith  all 
!  was  sixteen, 
nifess  it,  and 
:  the  moment 
'oning  at  her 
earcely  shake 
'  bidding  her 
d  at  its  first 

ing  wandered 
himself  again 
t  two  o'eloek 
icir  thoughts, 
le  of  love  only 
she  was  play- 
first  notes  of 
r.  "  i^Iy  tears 
which  seemed 


f:pFf:crs  of  music. 


181 


Tt^-as  the  stidnl  i.laint  ..f  1,,,.  heart  ;  it 
'I'll  was  exhahng  from  her  fii.g,,-,.;  it  was 


to  me  snhlinio 

\\as  her  grief  ' 

the  eternal  tarcwdi !"' 

Imi  /c  H    f^r'"^^^^^        '"'!'"^  *''^'  {"Hnortahlefei'icJot'tlc 
hcioic  city,  helnnd  whose  fallen  walls  he  Imd  fo„iht      e 


i^".:h,a;;ds;;;:i;d;h:;al;irrv^L'^ 

ittc-c-tions  which  constitute  '  home.'  ^ 

J  ll(>  Tlinmniioi.ir  V...:..  x ..  ,       .       


att; 


\ 


The  mercenary  Swiss  troops  formerly  in  France  nn.1  Yn 

uni  s  Li^l    ed  tl.V^?'^'''  "''^'''''  '■'"'■^^  ''""^  mscordan't 
^-u.uKis  lunamea  these  brave  mountaineers  \vUh  u-..,.liL-. 

-lo|;^by  recalling  to  them  their  count^  ^^it^t^ 

Xapoleon  III  finds  liimself  obliged  to  allow  the  Arabs 

a  nu^'^    ■  "k^  r""'"''''^'^*^"^  ^'^  ^^  incor,.orate    wUl   1  i^' 
ann^ ,  their  barbarous  music  of  fiutes  and  tanvtnn  s      , 
cler  the  pe.jalty  of  seeing  them  revolt.    Th^t^^:^^: 
these  soldiers  to  make  marches  under  whicS  w  ho.t       s 

1  laj^^o  a  Creole  ox  the  Antilles  one  of  his  dunces,  with 


II 


!  i 


li 


182 


NOTICS  OF  A  I'lAMST. 


•  f  ..i.vtl.in  it-*  i.liiintivo  iin.l  .Ircnmy  nu'l^dy,  and 

its    (IlliUllt     rllUllin,  us    lUiinni  I   „.;, I,   ,,,,,»,„<  ..sill. 

vutoru-s  nf  1T'.':5  n^n.t  the  mvmlcr.  ot  l.unc.  us 
uvnius  of  Duiuourioz. 

-x;:s  ::3;  w^^^^ 

1,0011  Ki'oii  not  to  loino  a  ti  idl    .     i  ,,^.|,   ,,f 

l.enls  I'an- t(.  tlHMKrk  ot  then       c^^^^^^^^^^  p  ^  ^^^ 

.vh-u-h  tlu.y  arc  so  l-ro^^uMh^^^       i;*^,       I    <>  l.ar  it ;  thoy 

the  (ln>ve  an  long  'i'\.  ^^  ">,"  /       /^  ' ,"  .,,,a  to  .Vu'  after  it 
haveheen  soon  to  ivtnso   ho       .a>tu  c  ^^  ^^^  ^^^^^^^,^ 

.nst..ino,l  to  lK>  mlornoa  f^'-^J  ^^^     ,u  1    he  Cks  i-asturo 
ruountains  of  Pcotlanjl  '\"<\^^\1':^  ;,•;;"  j/'o  Uhorlan.l,  the 

o^vinir  to  a  softening  ot  the  ^im  alinai  m  ^^^^^^ 

oureA  by  every  ^^^^Z^^T^  ^^^^'     ^"^  ^^ 
so  vigorous.    All  ot  the  ''"    '  ,|.  and  tli  s  was  on 

l-"''!rLl  .?' ^Mt^ti;;';  ••h»cLla\n,oa,  "«■/»,< 
opera.    If  !-''"•'•      ,J '   ',..  ,„„i ,  1,1,  ,vas  all. 
■    "  C     4       i'ie.  irhon-ibie  ...tttU,  of  tljo  taurtee^>", 
,vw'l,  la„i  ,na,lo  of  I""™,;';-, ^//Jl'^^f^ut'^     t  th'i.on^e 

l,aste„«l  toen.K-ea  ™?™    >  '.XJ    /  ..fhtnii^^^      i»'ane 
of.a.e«fiii.vtnena»who«iil.e.iato,      itK  ^  ^^^^^1 

„,vl,n„  at  Olen.-ottt-™™-  -    -  -  „,..„^  ,  „  ,, 

:;;;tr  of^Jri^  a,Hu\™T.:.w  of  t..e  „.o.t  aoeno  v^^^>  o. 


V  iiu'lody,  antl 
Iwisiiisiii. 
llic  rc'|iiiMifim 
t'nuH'c  us  Uk' 


the  panic  time 
\  ha^  a  i-syt-lio- 
y  whistling  to 
vcH  to  bo  t-'ijl"- 
l)ourrf;  caiiarii'rt 
illcs  ami  Smtli 
L' ;  t*iii(U'rs  have 
i-latiA  till'  rhi'V- 
a  larui'  bi-U,  <'{ 
at  till'  lii'atl  of 

0  wear  it ;  tlioy 

1  to  ilii'  aftiT  it 

ilusia  the  inuli'S 

K'o  if  their  iinni- 

aniinals  are  ai'- 

'  thi'in.  In  thi! 
ho  tloi'ks  ]iasturc 
:hoOhorlan(l,tlH' 
opor  at  the  sound 


beconio  iniboi'ilo, 
r.  Thoy  oixU'av- 
:hat  intolli'<'t  oni-e 
l)iittio(l.  Once  ho 
.,  and  this  was  on 
le  soptiior  of  his 
oxolaiuiod,  "  fltxt 

all. 
tho  Insurrection, 

fiold  of  oarnaire,  I 

sgust  at  the  house 

le  immense  insane 

I  small  organ,  and 

d  we  invited  a  few 

t  docile  patients  of 


Mi's/r  Ay/>  Till-  issAsr.  j^g 

....■,,,,,,,  ..x,..,„i  ,i„. „i„.,  ,„'„:,.  'i',;;'; , '  ,'"1.;,?,; 

r.si..,!  s ,.,„.i„,  ,'     t    '    ,  ',':',""i'" ""•"'"!  '"""i- 

:■'«!  mm.,  „„.i  I,..  „|,|„„  1      ;„ '  i  i',""  r "  I'';;  "'■ 

Ihe  truth  is  now  so  recoo-nizod  in  Finv.,. .  +i    *. 

.  H.,.o  ,i.e  orni,&.,„.  „,,  ,„,,„„:  ;r.i'  1  »s, ;;',.,:;:";: 


4i# 


1^4 


yoTi:s  i>r  a  r/ASisT. 


.tun.r,  of   (irniu.nv,   wLuv   all    >i..jr.  mnl    wl.'-    ""l"- 

,•„,,.,  .'i...n.l  nmsi..  will,  its  lal.o.irs  ainl  it.  tos  ivaU     It 
I  will  n.oiv  pani-Mlarly  iiunti.m  1' ran.v,  uhwli    .-la     l.an 
inoiv  ll.at.  vlM  l">i..lml  ( M-pl.. '•.... s  nn.MH-M  n|  workin-- 
inon.     How  inauv  ..f  Wiv^v  latter,  wlu.  imssixl  at  tlu-  .•ahai.t 
tlu'ir  .nni.unts  ,.!•  U'ismv  in  .Irii.kii.K.  ncxv  tnul  a  i.l.;asant, 
ivrivatioM  in  those,  iv-.iiiions  wh.^iv  tl..  npint  -.1  ass. ..Mat. nil 
an.l  of  tVatc.n.ity  is  o..!rnMU-.v.l  an.    .lc;v..l..i...l-  an.  ,  .1      c 
,„„,,,  .,,,,  ,  ,.,n.  .amtiu.  slatisti.-  of  .•i-Murs,  wit ho.U  .l...il.t 
i,  w.nl.l  1.0  .lis....v..v.l  that  tlK.y  l.uv.  .hnmns hr.    ni  i.n>- 
,,„rti..n  as  n.nsi-al  s.H-ictirrt  huvo  in.Mvasc.l.     >"*"'•'•."; 
u,vlK.tt»T;  v..nf  heart  is  in  s.uni' way  punticl  whyn  it    is 
stn.n-lv  in.iirc-nat..l  with  tlu'  n.-hh"  hanu-.nu.s  ..    a  tmo 
•horns-,  un.l  it  honnnrs  .lilli.M.lt    ..ot  to  tn.st  as  a  hrother 
him   whose   voi.-o  is  hlen.lr.l  with  yoi.r  ..wn,  an.l    w.a.se 
lu,,rt    is   nnite.1  with  yonrs  in  u  cominumty  ot   pniv  and 

iovinl  t'lnotions.  .      .         ■       i  i 

"  'If  ()rphe..ns  are  ever  estahlishcl  m  America,  he  assmv.l 
that  the  'ha  r-r.. on  is'  -the  Hc.urjre  of  tho  eomitry— an.l  re- 
volvers will  eeu«c  to  he  imtioniil  iiirttitiitions. 

January,  1803. 

I  Imve  heon  (•onfincd  to  my  1)0.1  for  f.Mir  .hi.ys  hy  a  sc-vero 
attack  of  ncural.iriii  in  <>'>^'  ^'Ve  aiul  <.ne  side  ot  my  lioa.l.     i 
have  Hutiere.1  very  much,  hut,  thanks  to      'V^f'^tl'*';^. ; 
Dr.  Smith,  the  most  amiahle  eompaiuon  that  u  sick  man 
couM  desire,  an.l  to  the  attentions  ot  all  connecte.l  with  the 
Tremont  Ihmse,  the  hest  hotel  I  know  ot  (with  the  H  ou- 
tinental'  at  Phihulelphia),  I  am  greatly  hetter,  and  hope  ui 
u  lew  davs  from  this  to  recommence  my  'eoneerti/.mg 
i,ere.n-inutioiis.     I  was  alono  in  my  room  when  a  m.mient 
Im  a  friend  brought  me  a. journal  ot  last  month  c-ontaiiimg 
a^^letter  from  u  lady  in  Indianapolis  on  my  concert  m  that 
eitv      It  is  7  o'clock.  New- Year's  Day  1     Magical  epo<-h, 
Avllich,  when  we  are  children,  excites  in  us  a  glmv  ot  mde- 
Hcrihahle  felicity,  and  which,  as  we  hecomo  old,  brings  with 
it  onlv  the  remembrance  of  lost  happiness.     I  was  re(-allmg 
to  mVself  family  joys,  and  was  measuring  the  extent  ot 
what  we  all  lose  as  we  advuuee  in  lite.    Each  ot  these 


/^.t  iii:nvEusE. 


peak,  for  in- 
wlmst'  nidiis- 
nl\\iiv>  iisHit- 
■stivulr'.  Uiit 
ich  to-dnv  Imrt 
il  of  worUinir- 
iit  till'  ciilmivt 
iii*l  a  jiK'ti^iint 

•d;  ami,  it'  we 
vitlioiit  (loiiltt 
iiislicd  ill  in'o- 
Iii  ia<t.  you 
ifd  wlu'ii  it   i-< 

Dllic'rt   of   11     lilH! 

st  as  a  lirotlu'i" 
i- II,  and  wiioso 
^-  ot'  \\\\v<i  mid 

'icn,  1h'  artHurc'd 
ititrv — mid  IV- 


.Tannary,  1803. 

av.H  liy  u  scvoro 
itt'  my  lioad.  I 
110  attc'iitioii  of 
lat  il  siL-k  man 
R'l-tc'd  witli  tlio 
with  the  '  Coll- 
ier, mid  liopo  in 
'  '  ooiicerti/.ing' 
vluMi  il  luoineiit 
Diitli  containing 
concert  in  tliiit 
Masjcietil  i'iku-Ii, 
a  glow  of  indo- 
[)ld,  brings  with 

I  was  rociilliiig 
t  the  extent  of 

Each  of  these 


j:;';:';::'  '-f^: '- 1'^"  ■■ '■""■»• ...,  .i„.  i,„i„v„v  1- 

ourselves.      Wl„..    ....; ,' .,      y  "  '  "  "  '"i^''  '"''•n  made  iii 


v^nn.ni>i.ed!  wi,a(  ineMdsii,:.;.i.ti;  ,;:•••':'••''''* 

iMiisical  jil.stra,.iin„    not  t      ,    •  •  V    ''*'." '"''.^^  ""I.v  n 

f ti.esyM.,athi;s'r;.d  :  ,;;.:;^';'''''ir'\^^ 

to  he  iii..I<.sed  witliin  fl.e  w    1  1  ,    •  V  '"  ""'  ""''^'"'"i'l, 

^•'M"-erora<.;  '  1"  ,";•,;,  ':;''''^^ 

•M-•ri.•ular^^;il::;;l;H:.^r,;;:•;?^:^^ 


life  (and  wli(»  hnn  not'  J\.,y  t\V  Vr  l'-""^^  '"  "'.^  ai'nst 
Htood  that  I  an  nr/uMvi,  .  I  ;r  'rS'^  "my  l,e  ander- 
bnt  I  donottlilMl  fl,.  ^''-"^  '    ^"^'■^'  merited   it), 

-  .i^iightniny ;:;  t  :r,  :";£7':;;  "i'^-^'-'^  ''"y  i- 

(.roLation  of -tlds  mother  [  si  U  I  il';'!;  Z' r^i  ^'^  "''■ 
lost  my  t  nie  in  writin.r  '  ..  F',  ..  .'"'^     "^^   ^  '"'d  n(.t 

tlmngli  I  have  no  m^Jivc/rtn^^  ^-'''-^'^  •^""-'')-  ^'^^^ 
my  love  f„r  chil  Iren  n.'.ll  .,  V'*"  '''-"'^>'  '•^'  "'<"Tii,iro, 

^irain  I  reiie-.t  .>  ,"f,^  {  "' !'^  .^^ '"^'1'   HUrronnd.s   the  cradle 

composition,  hn  y  H  t  i  a  r"tir;^  ''^  !'V  l'"''  "'^'^ 
for  her  little  intl  nt  wh.  n  '  r^^''"^"'".'^^  l'^'''  affection 
called  to  heriJf  :  IJ  ,  ,  '';"'T"f  T'V^^  ''''""«  •^''^'  '•^'- 
niy  concert.  ''"''  ''^"^'^^  «^'^'  ^'^^l  j'"«t  I^ciird  at 

16* 


Q  NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 

.  The  omaic  .ong-^i. » ;|ot  i^^;^f:^::,:^::  :zi 

Bo„mn.  o«.r,,,^- ;;-;.,  1.^ 

M.«lt,  J..U  know,  »'"'■'■'  'l,eta,U\vliul.  ogago  us 

it  hal.  tho  advantage  ov«  «"   ™  j  ^I'.^,/  '  ,„i,lg  inftnite 
boun,la.-k.»  upou  tl.o  l,«uvr8  t     ug  it ,  <       1         .-_.^_^,^,  ,„j. 

nlothor^vho  has  lost  her  ^"^J^  s  Ju"  mt  -^c    uul,  to  c.u-h  of 
t.e..,  an  exile  who  ^-^J-jf^^  ^^    >  S"of  its 'own  proper 
the'«e  sorvowing;  hearts ^\  Hi  appeai  ii  ^ 
grief,  and  the  vetieetiou  ^'^j;':^^^  i,y  mon^orieB  of  a 

yonno-ersi.lei  of  nunc,  ^^^'^^^^^"j^^/Vi  fancy  throug^^  a 

ace  an<l  strengthenea  hy  «'^';*;"'f'„  •  .\,=-,ies].ite  itstritiing 
sorrow  once  spared  my  heart.      ^ 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

SpniNOPiEi-n,  Illinois,  January  8,  1863. 

^-r.  1    1       TTntol  r '  "  n     Eaeh  one  of  these  oxelama- 
St.  Nicholas  Hotel  {...■)     Y  , ,  .11  ^-on  a  story  ot 


1 


SPRIXCFIELD,  ILLISOIS. 


1S7 


■t  pet  to  music? 
ow,  on  ('(niunt!; 
given  inolodi- 
gs — a  mother's 
lerof  tlie 'Bor- 
ic 'Home  Jour- 

cfording  to  our 
■hieli  engage  ua 
I  our  own  domi- 
ively  undelined, 

of  imposing  iio 
opening  inlinite 
iiiii-s  to"  rove  un- 
■kuly,  board  l)y  a, 

bewails  his  mis- 
}  land,  to  eaeh  of 
of  its  own  proper 

iv  memories  of  a 
rouiiht  up  hy  me, 
nianey  through  a 
icr  awav  tVom  us. 
;.    I  imaithied  her 
thought  of  loshig 
■etions,  ripened  by 
r  up  afresh  to  be 
"despite  its  triiling 
L-alls  to  nic  a  great 


render  the  St.  Nidiolas  Hotel,  Sprinirtid,!,  forever  eel,- 
pmted!  J  irst,  the  Legislature  l)eing  in  session,  flu.  Ix.use 
IS  tiill,  which  la  the  same  as  saying  that  the  beefsti'aks  are 
leuthcMy,  the  eggs  too  hard.      ].et  him  ex].laiu  who  enn 
the  afhmty  whieh  exists  between  vietnals  and  u  crowd,  and 
what  inakea  one  tho  consequence  ot  the  otlier;  but  sucli  is 
tlie  lact.     I  have  bitterly  real'.zed  it  at  the  Ihirnett  Ib.uso 
in_  (  lucinnati.     Ouo  of  my  agents  had  to  share  his  rliami.cr 
with  tlireo  persons.     One  stole  his  ijold  v/atch.  his  fham 
and  his  trock  coat.     AVe  are  coojied  up,  six  of  us,  in  a  little 
njoni  hardly  krgo  enough  to  hold  one  bed  conifortal)lv 
llu)  water  to  wash  with  is  as  black  as  ink.     The  prcorietm- 
charges  us  for  a  supper  which  we  have  not  eaten,  and  upon 
a  limid  ohservatiou  wliich  we  make  respecting  it,  looks  at 
us  as  if  he  wishe*!  to  crush  us,  and  addressing  the  i.orte-- 
throws  out  this  men-.orable  phrase,  which  seemed  to  me  -.ot 
to  speak  very  highly  in  favour  of  the  honesty  of  the  travel- 
lers with  Avhom  he  is  in  the  habit  of  dealing:  "Eillv,  take 
care  that  the  trunks  are  not  taken  away  betorc  the  bills  are 
paid ! 

0  excellent  Lincoln,  Springfield  lias  been  vour  liome,  but 
that  does  not  increase  my  admiration  for  its  inhabitants! 

March  5. 

Given  my  first  concert  at  ^Vashington— great  success 
Audience  variegated  !  diplomats,  generals,  ctt^  In  the  first 
row  I  recognized  General  irerron,^ny  old  friend  from  Xcw 
Granada.  .he  porch  of  the  liotel  is  alwavs  cro\\-dod 
lliere  are  some  thousands  of  soldiers,  uniforms  of  everv 
nation,  German,  French,  Polish,  Austrian,  Croats,  etc  I 
particularly  remark  a  regiment  from  the  west,  I  think 
whose  shakos,  a  sort  of  monument,  whidi  has  ])ehind  the' 
ap))earance  of  a  Tyrolese  hat,  and  before  is  ornamented  with  a 
visor  is  surmounted  instead  of  a  [.lumo  with  a  squirrel's  tail 


lois,  January  8,  1863. 
3  of  these  exdama- 
[  tell  vou  a  story  ot 
tions  which  should 


ler's'WalL-nstein.' 

After  the  concert,  a  sqnint-eytl  gentleman  requested  me 
with  a  mysterious  air.  to  gra-c  him  an  interview  for  ten 
minutes  to-morrow.     He  ha  i  come !  i  thought  it  was  for 


L 


188 

the  1 
it 


yOTES  OF  A  riANIST. 


i.urpnso  of  l.looainjr  my  purse,  I  am  so  accnstomea  to 
IT      Tl.u  immlHT   of  fathors  out  of  woi-k,  ot  ori-liaiiH  ot 
tciulor  asro,  and  of  widows  vitliout  sui)iK)rt  is  invariably 
siii.ndarlv  duvdopod  the  luorning  after  a  coiu'ort,  and  iny 
1„  iTrinos^u-c  uouerally  overrtm  ;  but  my  wiumt-eyod  prc)- 
fes>,^or  ?s  fc^imply  only  a  professor  of  physiolop-  at  the  L  ni- 
vei-ity.     lie  has  remarked,  he  sai.l,  that  I  played  more 
quieklv  than  any  other,  and  as  he  has  seen  that  one  ot  his 
eonfrateri.itv,  in  a  book  just  published   has  athrmed  that 
the  nund.er''of  pereussions  given  by  tlie  human  nerves  eouU 
not  transeend  more  than  twenty-five  in  a  sceond  he  should 
he  happy  to  prove  the  falsity  of  his  rivals  assertion.     Ue 
dared  to  hope  that  I  would  eontirin  liis  observa  ions,     lie 
gave  mo  a  long  dissertation,  and  repeated  to  me  that  he  was 
liappv  to  have  known  the  pianist  who  could  make  more 
tliau'twentv-tive  j*('?v'*/*.*.sv'o/*s  in  a  second. 

O  Art !  where  art  thou  'i     I  took  enormous  proportions  in 
his  eves  bv  telling  him  that  I  play  the  'mouvement  perpetuel 
of  Weber  in  less  than  two  minutes.   What  would  you  wish 
me  to  have  said  to  this  ignoramus  ?     Couhl  I  resolve  to 
descend  from  the  pedestal  on  which  he  had  p  aeed  me  .' 
Here  I  am  then  definitely  classed  scientifically  by  this  scpiint- 
eyed  gentleman  among  the  most  powerful  known  motors.^ 
Thu-d  concert  to-morrow,  the  8th  March.     Second,  this 
eveniiur,  the  7th.     To-morrow  I  shall  go  to  General  W  ads- 
worth's  camp.    Two  young  cavalry  majors  avetoscMid  us 
horses,  the  roads  being  so  broken  that  t  will  be  difhcii  t, 
even  with  our  hackneys,  to  got  to  the  camp,  which  is  on  tlie 
other  side  of  the  Potomac.     The  government  has  done  us 
the  favour  of  sending  us  a  safe-conduct.     Mr.  beward,  the 
Secret:.. -v  of  State,  desires  to  see  me,  not  as  an  artist  only, 
but  as  a'Louisianian  remaining  faithful  to  tbe  Constitution. 
The  dav  before  yesterday  the  house  ot  Baron  .MeiTier, 
the  French  Minister,  was  burnt.   All  the  furniture  and  tlie 
wardrobe  of  Mr.  and  ^ladam  were  lost  to  that  extent  ti ait 
Madam,   the    Baroness,  had    to    borrow   stockmp   from 
Madam   Ritro.      Interesting   details!     li.c   city   1';'.^    the 
appearance  t)f  having  been  just  taken  by  assault.     Military 
everywhere.     Soldiers  on  every  side.     An  immense  crowd. 
I   have   solemn! V  taken   the   oath  of  allegi-ince  to  tlie 
government  at  Washington.     My  borror  of  slavery  matle 


=rn 


nORROR  OF  SLAVKRY. 


accnstomed  to 
of  oi'iiliaurt  of 
t  is  invarialtly 
>iu'ort,  and  my 
[uiiit-oyi'd  I'l'*^ 
p-  at  till!  Uni- 
I  played  more 
that  one  of  his 
5  atlirnic'il  that 
lan  nerves  could 
cond  he  shoidd 
,  assertion.     He 
nervations,     lie 
me  that  he  was 
lid  make  more 

IS  proportions  in 
.■ment  perpetuel' 
would  you  wish 
luld  I  resolve  to 
had  plaecd  me  ? 
lyhy  thisscp;int- 
known  motors, 
h.     Second,  this 
)  General  AVads- 
•s  are  to  send  us 

will  be  difficult, 
),  which  is  on  the 
lent  has  done  us 

Mr.  Seward,  the 
as  an  artist  oidy, 
the  Constitution. 

Baron  Mercier, 
furniture  and  tlie 

that  extent  that 
stockiiijis  from 
iic  city  has  the 
asa\dt.  Military 
L  immense  crowd, 
alk'giraice  to  the 

of  slavery  made 


189 


tlio   (iitlmlic    <ogi„a   n.irHr,lin,it   ,lm,|,tl„l   „oi,l    V    „, 

are   no   longer    br>ken-the   general   movem>  k/.     , 

.    "mfication.     ^  o  one  fraction  of  the  pcoi.le  has   he  r    ht 
reclaim  its  autonomy,  if  it  does  not\-a  Ty  w  th  it  -nx  t -r 
g«aranteesof,a-ogressand  civilisation  tluui^tl^^^ 
ity  who  IS  enslaving  it.    TnM  the  South  in  wishing,  o  •  W    v 

t  mo      fl  o  T"'  -^'""I^".'  l^^"*^^'''''  "^omniients"<t  modern 

Tt       d     l'^"'^'"".^"''^"-^"''^^'-^^'^^  i^li  it  only  slavery 
iMndeed  unbecoming  my  fc-llow-citi;.ons  of  the  South  to 
nsk  lor  the  liberty  of  reclaiming  their  indepcn.I  ■  u'e      lu 
this  independence  is  only  to  bo'made  use  of  for  t  le  ^'niei 
vation  ot  the  most  odious  of  abuses  and  tl  <>  n  n  f  «  .         ." 
putiye  upon  lil^rty.     I  do  noU^a  -J^a^- m,  W  iS^^d 
i.;g  n.e  iiegro.     I  believe  him  veiy  inferil>;  mo      ^  f  ^  « 
A^h  to      ^o  race  so  maltreated  as  this  has  been  bv  ch-n,  o 

could  have  remained  as  - /'rL    •  •     ^  ^  "'>"^'c 

found.)  •     (Kemaming  part  not 

J  ,  Alexa.vhria,  i\pril  27. 

i  have  for  a  long  time  desired  to  see  this  little  citv  on 

1- i„  ,ho  wj,^^  j;si^  ;-i''i;pt  s,"E^^ 


190 


yOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


t,o  Con^aeratos,  anA  finally  b^-;.  the  ^-ral  ^-J^^ 
of  the  tirst-that  I.  ^S^P^^^'^^^^  ' V^i^;e^u8  w  we  find 
that  iudetinable  >^«!'  "f  \\V  'ttlc  amMn  our  thoughts 
ourselves  on  a.i  oM  ^f^^^*^^.^:  f  !^;n*y  oi  which  itMms 

^^'^?r^rV  at  the'Mar.hall  no;^^^^^^ 

'"Vr"^^V^^ho  Arnivof  the  Potomac  has  heen  estah- 
ral  hospital  ot  the  A^^^^J/^;  .'  ^-^^^^  invalids  at  every 

lished  at  AlexaiKhna,  thereto  eANemcc^^^^  ^^^^^ 

step.    The  sight  of  a  »;"^  '^^^.^Jst  allthoL  whoiu 
spectacle ;  bore  it  is  l^^a^t-  endu^ ,  a  most  ^^  ^j^^ 

I   meet  being  yp}"V^ /r^TrrthfaSs  of  actual  war. 

^Marshall  ll7^^,«\^%^'^^^^^?  ^iVc^ith  a  y^  i^^^  -^  "i"-" 
It  was  here  that  ^<^^o»^l  ^Vf^^'"^i^l^if  Kufwortl^  a  new 
\T  r^'^  ri>tt  LalilS  iuly  of  w.rs  .uul 
^l'^^^;^H^;;.eTis  as  erted,had  never  knocked  at  his 
Si    ;;d^^eii^i.  again  asserted,  a  virgin. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

As  in  the  past  J  ec^itinuc^o^  whWed  i|^^-.  ^  Thi. 

agitated  life  is  a  ^^f  f  J^^^S^^^rSiable  and  of  more 
themselves  have  not  a  '"1<^  mm«  ""/.  ^  j^stiny  sub- 

unchangeable  vigidity  than    hat  to  aUuci^^^^^        J 

everythhi  is  "^^^J^^  :/;;\  *  e^i^^^^^^^^  my  agent  I 
peregrinations.    /^^^Xi  a  few  amount  of  the 

know  m  advance,  ^^^thin  a  ic^^  nmnhev  of  inhabitants.  I 
receipts  in  a  town  ot  a  g^v  e^^  "^^^^^^^^J  ,^^^  inextricable 
know,  with  my  eyes  shut,  e^ fiJ   <>"*^  ^.  ^^^^  ,.ailroads  with 


o-oncral  qv.irtcrs 
there  a  little  of 
8  wlieu  we  iind 
n  our  thoughts 
,f  which  it""  has 
rirginiau  soil  is 
the  tbot8te\>s  of 

[otcl,'  almo;*t  on- 
11  of  Alexandria 
men.     The  gene- 
3  has  l)een  estah- 
tuvaliils  at  every 
is  always  a  sad 
t  all  those  whom 
,t  children.     The 
ids  of  actual  war. 
ling  hero  of  nine- 
r:ilriWorth,  a  new 
)nly  of  wars  and 
r  knocked  at  his 
virgin. 


THE  PL7JLIC. 


191 


led  in  space.    This 
The  Chartreux 
tiahle  and  of  mo  re 
L-h  my  destiny  suh- 
y-thing  is  foreseen, 
regulated    in  my 
mce  of  my  agent,  I 
the  amount  of  the 
•  of  itdmhitants.     I 
of  the  incxtricahle 
■  the  railroads  with 
railroad  conductors 


siiliite  me  familiarly  as  one  of  tlie  omi.Iov)^.^.      The  vonu"- 
girls  at  the  refrcshmont-room  of  the  station,  whcri-  tivo 
minutes  are  givi-n,  select  for  me  the  hcst  cut  of  ham  and 
sugar  my  tea  witli  the  ohHijhig  smile  that  all  well-tan-ht 
tradespeople  owe  to  their  customers.     At  H  oVIo-k  T  sihite 
in  my  l)lack  suit  my  audience,  and  yive  them  'II  Trovatore  ' 
A  t 'rVr ""^'^^'' ^'.' "'"^  tliey  encore  the  'Alurnunvs   Koliens'' 
At  halt-past  nme  they  call  again  for  '  La  liercense,'  in  the 
midst  ot  tlio  enthusiasm  of  some  yountr  romantic  vir-nns, 
and  some  papas  slightly  inclined  in  a  semi-conscious  state 
to  sleep,  wlio  find  the  piece  ful  1  of  asrreeahle  effects.     A  t  ten 
o  clock  1  carry  off  my  patriotic  audience  to  tlie  In^lliocrent 
accents  of   1  he  Union'  fantasia ;  and  at  lialf-past  ten  T  'throw 
myself,  exhausted  and  depoetized,  into  the  prosaic  arms  of 
the  blessed  Morpheus, whom  1  should  he  tempted  to  caiu.ni/e 
It  1  were  J  ope,  and  if  the  good  man  (I  speak  of  Morpheus) 
liad  not  chosen  to  live  hefore  the  invention  of  canonization. 
1  his  morning  hreakfasted  hi  a  hurry,  and,  alas!  five  six 
seven,  eight,  or  ten  hours  of  railroad,  and  always  the  same' 
flung— the  crowd,  and  to  he  isolated!     Isolation  is  cer- 
tainly sometimes  a  sad  thing;  hut  to  he  alone  and  find 
yourself  surrounded-or  he  Jostled  hy  the  multitiale  and 
feel  that,  outside  of  the  indirect  relations  of  the  '  ticket 
ofhce,_no  other  tie  attaches  you  to  those  who  surround 
3-ou— IS  it  not  worse  than  ostracism  or  the  desert''     I  in- 
demnify myself-  hy  making  physiognomical  observations 
on  those  whom  I  meet.     I  classify  individuals 

A  hook  written  hy  a  talented  observer  on  the  phvsio..- 
nomy  of  tlie  public  would  he  very  interesting.     La vater,  Tf 
he  liad  liad  tlio  great  misfortune  of  bcin<r  oljHired  to  .rive 
concerts    wouh     certainly  have   studied^ the  characte'r  of 
that  collective  being-tliaf  monster-gentle  and  feroci(»us, 
satiated  and  famished,  glutted  and  corrupted,  artless  and 
capricious-which  is  called  the  public.     You  would  not 
believe  how  much  there  i.  t],at  is  interesting  in  the  public 
(outside  of  the  receipts  which  are  naturallv  the  moit  im- 
p(n-tant  of  its  phases).     Do  you  remember  the  storv  of  flio 
prisoner  in  the  Hastile,  who,  midst  the  horrors  of  his  cap- 
tivity, found  amusement  in  taminir  a  mouse— the  onlv  com- 
panion of  his  solitude;  and  of  tlia>,  other  who  beiruiied  the 
monotony  of  his  time  by  hunting  in  the  dark^for  a  pin 


192 


yOTES  OF  A  PIAyiST. 


Uonnan  or  DuU-h  (I  call  ^'^»"  '    ^    ,  ;   '^  .^;,a   Dutc-li   those 
Goetho,  Mon.lelssolnj    a.ul   ^.^f  '^^      \,*;'tl>or-cM.untrv  are 

love  of  beer,  a  eonluil  ^^'f,^,  ^  •"*  ^^ j^. M us  hands,  and  has 

his  hair  ^^f^^^y^^'X^l^^^^^^^^  ^'"^ 

tlio  unpardonable  ^\eaKnt.sf»  uui.  i 

2;:ianot^>nstotheKhjr.c.l)anuM^  ^^  ^^^^^^  ^ 

^  l\.ould,  if  ^^^'^^r^y^  Ibsoribers  in  n.^' 

C^'^;  the'lionle  Journal,' are  in  the  B.ajor.ty-by 

theVarmth  or  coldness  of  the  ^^^'^^^  ^^^^.^ewas  only 
I  ao  not  ^o^y^^^orr^^^^;^^     •„  ^.^ 

one  lantasia   or  the  Vf^'  ^,"'\\\"V-'..,,,,,,  all  the  lucubrations 
able  eticct  of  the  tei, id-water   npc       -  l^^^^^^,  ,f  i>,,,. 

.rudently  «^')fi'l^  ^  ^^  „l.  .V    h    .n.ldv  whirl  of  the  con- 


imY>i'' 


...iprudently  conii.led  to  tne  T^?-^^^^;;:  ,•  ^f  the  con- 
i  have  come  in  the  "^«V^^\\^^F  ks  t  the  invariuble 
cert  in  which  I  hud  "^^'f^^' "^"^J.^v  ^-^  ine  "I>ou  the  stage 
perio.licity  winch  ^!'"f  ^^^P^*;;^, S/li  fhefe  is  only  one 
ieforc  the  same  piano,  ^^J^'^^l^;,^'^^^  ;,,  ^s  humour,  but 

,„„i,  „t;  tl,o  «">>'™--.  ""*    t; a     .1  '....Vila;  tl.^.  «.-f . 


THE  CREAT  DEAD. 


103 


kcthom.    The 
ic  reiK'tition  <>t' 

caiv,  isoliitioii 
ig  of  all),  toivo 
lu'insolvi'M. 
i()iiiu'>*,  l»vit  tlie 
jiinj  jtroMciiif*: 
I  t()  the  sku's? 
;  liave  ijot  into 

uiulorstand  by 
town  a  professor 
.(luirod,  toll  you 
lu'ct^  if  tlioy  are 
nnenofScliilU'i', 
1(1  Dnti'li  tlioj*c 
•tlior-c'ountry  are 
i-son  wlio  fonibrt 

hands,  and  has 
nseribe  his  goo- 

such  or  Bucli  a 
ihsorihers  in  ni^' 
I,'  or  'Dwitrhts 
;hc  majority— hy 

at  there  was  only 
ess  to  the  intoler- 
1  the  lucubrations 
istrument  of  I'au. 
whirl  of  the  con- 
to  the  invariable 
ng  ui>ou  the  stage 
:  there  is  only  one 
in  its  humour,  hut 
and  eharaoteristie 

[linc-schcwl  (may  I 
lost'iuteresting  ele- 
•hich  my  attention 
•astorella,' the  first, 
iut  of  its  title,  the 


second,  thanks  to  tlio  small  talk  hetm-en  the  malicious  and 
awkward  young  girl,  and  the  am.M-ous  chevalier,  ha\e  .rnie- 
rally  tlie  privilege  ot  awakening  in  an  uiuMinivocal  niiriuier 
the  notice  ot  tile  pretty  battalion  on  the  left  or  rii^ht  win.' 
A\  one  or  the  other  extremity,  like  the  cnanlian  of  the  tlo.'l"c 
charged  wi  h  the  care  of  keeping  on  tlu-  road  the  refractorv 
siieep,  IS  generally  found  the  local  J5eethove!i,  wiio  is  xwt 
celebrated,  and  whose  immaculate  and  delicate  taste  can 
not  be  pleasei    with  the  plain  water-gniel  serve.l  up  to  the 
barlnirous  vulgar,  and  who  feeds  oulv  on  the  divjuo  am- 
l)r()sia  enianating  from  the  masters  (dead— this  is  imi.ortant 
and  puntied  m  the  crucible  consecrated  by  opiuiori  and  bv 
time);  this  is  of  the  best  tone,  seeing  that  aristocracv  fs 
always  conservative.     The  great  dead!    liow  mauv  little 
erimes  are  committed  in  their  name!     It  is  sweet  to  be  able 
to  crush  a  living  youth  who  incommodes  you  (and  what 
way  IS  more  commodious  and  less  compromisiujr  than  to 
throw  an  old  name  at  his  licad!). 

Chopin's  genius  has  developed  itself  within  the  fifteen 
>ears  since  he  has  rid  his  contemporaries  of  its  iierishable 
envelope.  One  could  scarcely  believe  how  much  his  com- 
positions have  improved. 

Thirty  years  ago  lie  travelled  in  Germanv,  when  his 
comimsuions  only  obtained  the  disdainful  criticisms  of  the 
worshippers  of  suns  that  had  set. 

The  form!  O  pagans  of  art!  The  form!  When  then  will 
the  time  come,  routine  fetish  worshii.pers,  when  you  will 
Jiave  the  courage  or  the  talent  to  avow  tha^  there  is  more 
genius  111  the  pretty  waltzes  of  Strauss  than  in  five  hundred 
pages  ot  school-work;  in  eight  notes  of  genius,  whollv 
without  ornament,  ignorant  of  their  nakedness,  but  iK-auti- 
tul  in  their  ignorance,  than  in  a  loijarithmical  problem? 

Ihere  was  a  period  in  France,  in  Italy,  and  in  Spain  when 
the  cuncdti  wcrethe  rage.  The  poetical  mania  in  its  licen- 
tiousness, deceiving  Itself  ill  its  devouring  fervour,  chuK'-  to 
a  worship  ot  material  tours  deforce.  T^he  idea!  Wha't  is 
It  then  {  It  matters  not  what  sensualists,  ondovx  ed  bv  God 
lyitli  the  power  ot  creation,  can  ima<.ine  it!    15ut  the" form 

difficuir"^'''"'''""*'  *^'''  '"'"'''"*'""  ^^'*'  '"'''^'''''  "'  *^'''  ^^'''  ^^'^' 

Already  under  the  lever  empire  the  rhetoricians  of  Bv- 
17 


■■:;.  -.i_^^ji','!„u^^,„J4Jv^  u»wi.»  J.  p » 


194 


KOTES  OF  A  PI  A  MS  T. 


loMuths'  should,!.,  t ho.r  '■r''wt:/Hti«m-'uH.   above  all 

Un.l.  tho  U-ttor  A  '^»'<^"\\\,   *;,(^^\C  x'stouisluHl   reader 

^^'t;^!:S;ula::AVistarein.,c^^al^^ 

(vho  -si;eet  theu..jAvc«^  a^t  ^.    ^£^  ,,,iu.U..j?  other 
c-steem  tor  beer,  aiul  hu ks  ^"  \\\m.  ^Jj^,  taneiful,  has 

.tin...la..t.)  l.is   "»^l'^'-"//'V tvoe    f  t  ie  inimoleratc  t.so  of 
oontributea  i\^V"^f  truWwcthlp  a r\vbo  does   not 

tVibuted  to  the  advent  of  long  hair. 


There  is^Uhin  -  a  want  of,o,^nUbrto  ^^ 

aspirations  and  nwr^^^^^^^^  ,,,,1     the 

wards  regions  ot  \"^  "        .    'nths  of  reality,  fettering  m 
latter  ten<l  t-anl  the  lo.^st  ^^tt,,,,^,,rne 

"^J::"  ^^  tk  Wniidence  in  myself  and  my 
irritability  when  I.am  ^^^itic^^^^^^^^^^  .        ^^  ^ris,  it 

If  I  write  my  iniaginatio      j'^.^f  ^^^^       ^,  .^on  as  I 
traverses  space  and  shows  "^^'^"•Y,^';  ^.^ttertlv  it  be- 
llh  to  plaee  it  ^l^on  paper,  fixnnn^^^ 
comes  a  l!at.    The  wings  beo.n  e  ^^  ^^>^  ICJ^,,,,  thing 


iro,  were  led 
s  lost  for  so 
hotter.     Had 
it  tlieinselvos 
,  of  liiu's  (the 
nose  (litfeivut 
.  oye  the  ap- 
in(l  above  all 
lilt  ions  of  the 
•ite  ii  i><Hiii  in 
1(1  for  twelvo 
lishecl   reader 
i-ikiug  agauist 

lessons  on  the 
men  of  irenins, 
OS  a  ]iarti('ular 
ucludhig  other 
!  faneiful,  has 
loderatc  nse  of 
who  does   not 
idating  liciuid, 
got  drunk  to 
iiszt  have  cou- 


m  between  my 
isire  to  soar  to- 
lity,  while  the 
ity,  fettering  in 
nd  keeping  me 
I  myself  and  my 

vings  of  Iris,  it 
As  soon  as  I 
I  butterfly  it  be- 
mder  the  burden 
ischievous  thing 
offers  me  a  thou- 


c.  J 11  r/-:  T-  n.  i  a  ex  is  tfxce. 


l!t.> 


sand  onf'onrnironieiils  ((.  r,,ll,,\v  if      w;,i,  ,,.„,  ;.   i       ,  r  . 
t;.giveaii.nntVan..linn.y;nvnwonstJ         :.^^^ 

"M.tlMt  til,  bclatnl  U-nxvWvv  pursues,  it  vani-lirs  into  tl  .. 
.h..;!<.H.s  at  the.  n..n.oMt  wlu..  1  think'l  ha  "!  J     ,  :  ' 

iN.r  tiftivM  months  n.y  cxlston.v  has  lurn  \\nC\  .V-  XL^ 
>ag;     1  should  ..c-rtainly  hcvon.e  brntali.c.d  h  •    1     *  ^  ,^ 

"n>in  [()  «cirk  tl)  (iiici  some  p(,««i  .  >■  w.iv  (o  <,,i,,l,.,f  tl... 

li a    the  Arab  of  the  de,.c-rt,  to  appease  his  thirst,         .  n 
ehhles  into  lus  nK.uth-the  sali'varv  t^^lan.ls,  i    •  ,,,         ! 

IK  ii.ul  (Hunk  (a  Cien-ian  would  not  fail  to  rail  it  -x  vuu\u 

1  »>  ot  Jigiit.     A\  hy  not,  said  I  to  mv.sc.lf,  should  1  not  trv 
IS  means;  and  by  transferring  the  'indn-lifhie'  pr „  J  Jf 

otnf  /'"'''  ^'t'  ^^"'^  ^  conmieneed  writing  mV 
notes  of  travel.  Sueh  is  the  monotony  of  my  ti-avel."t  •,•? 
I  soon  understood  that  what  I  wrote\vas  mu        'ss     1 

efleetion  ol  my  surroun.lirgs  than  the  exju-essio,   of   vh' t 
took  place  withm  myself.     But  as  that  notion    no  st(^nc 
tli  V'-^""' j'«"^^»'^^ly  "H'naeed  with  petrifaction,  I  d  ,    |  U 

T  ^nnVi'^  ^  ^''''i^''\^  «^'i^- salutary  illus:.,  by     1   ch 

I  could  traverse,  without  succumbinir,  the  'ts^hara' of  '    , 
ceits^  through  which  I  have  wlurled'  for  mole  Ihan  two 

nobir.  ^T^  ""^  "'^'  pocket-books  (I  was  about  to  sav  my 
pebbles;,  they  never  leave  me.  They  are  like  an  intinvite 
compamon  lor  me,  a  mute  confidant  Vho  has  th  i^ime  o 
advantage  over  all  the  railroad  friends  I  have  evei  iie  of 
bearing  me  without  my  being  obliged  to  stm  n  n,;    o'fce 


1 


•mhhwWjW^w,- 


196 


NOTES  OF  A  /'/.LV/.^T. 


to  ....  m.a  >'^'V^'V''<^'':7v\  r       ;  t  c  X     It,  tha   luM  von  un.lor 
coMl.l  a.  n.iu-h  Ik.  huuI  0   ' ,        .j^^^.       Us  that  I  Lav..  lUl.cl 

V,.,n  tlu.  M\.s,s.n.l.;    ;;     ;   '^  ;  'tvouM  tako  ..ma  care  to 
Yt.i-k  to  tlu.  >1*"'"'"\  .Vn     nnvthii..'  i-l-^o  than  nnacii- 

l.n.vout  von  from  .hscovonn;^  ".■.        oir  im-cs  looks  liko 
.l.val.1  A;u.ro,l y,^u-H ;  ^^f  ^  ^'j!;^;; J.i,^.al  tl..  haste 
the-  sale  ot  at.  oIkIi^^K.  _  /  '^Z  '       ^..^rvollouslv  ui  inakiu,;:; 
^vith  whu-h  1  WHO,  assist,  i  u  ,     a  ^^         ^.^^^,^^,^^ 

_what  should  1  say  ^  hjv^  o    ^^^^  ^,,,„,.^,  ,u,,,a  hy 

^^"^^^r'^n"S<'r   ^TSas  l^^a^'i^  a  house, 

or  iv  man  on  I'^'irl^J^'^,;  ^^  j'^,.  poekot-hooks  would  greatly 
Deealeaiy  I  1""\,  f  •'  ,  ]X-M'  lant.n,a.iie.  Iiuaguui- 
jj,-,,.  by  heing  '""'Y^"^'  V  .  \  u  thin-s,  Avhieh  some  read- 
tiou  might  see  m  tlj^^m^lu mn  ^  '^  ;^^^^^  ^^^  ^^^^  ^.,  i 
ers,  alas,  will.  Be^uvh    mm  wm^^^         ^^^^^   ^^^^  Amenoan, 

^l;^!^^  mr^m  i'i^pr^  t.fhe  vardouea  ibr  my  bung- 
U,vi  style  and  awkward  language. 

Euniu,  New  York,  Sunday,  Juno,  1803. 

■;„o  will  cJc-  mak»n;e  ^-ovo,  o  •  -^--; ^.^  „„„,  a„,, 
Elnnra  is  composed  ot  twci\c  »in-ii^ 

of  the  week.  _  Wikfast,  I  took  a  nap.    Then  I 

This  monung,  after  ,»^^»'\1^5, '  ,,^.„i  .vhereltmmd  two 
.vent  down  hUo  ^^V^^^:ZC^  looking  as  dis- 
ladies  with  their  ^""^^>.^,^^  ^%i  ,re  a  large  Bible.  Every 
mal  as  possible.    I  '^  ;%*  T.  ^  i,  observe(f  in  all  puritanica 

%!:7TS  {^^.nrof' «a,oo.  It  i»  .0  cuo  o.-  ti,o 

^r^^'"'"-         1  ;f  rJn.l  in  his  croodncsa  ever  thinks  of  us; 

buti'aiZo/S,g'l.U.5o.  o„  a  Sunday,  u,.ou  h. 


liiiii.i:  soriETir.s. 


VM 


noo  il  listons 
what  rrifiiilf* 
1(1  yon  hikU'I' 
1  iiavc  lill»'cl 
1(1  from  Nt-'W 
jrroiit  ('inv  to 
than  nntU'ii- 
rort  lookn  like 
and  the  haste 
As  ill  makinjj; 
L'tiiri'**,  rockotrt 
\)iu'  HOI'S  in 
idrt  rhased  hy 
Hoori  a  house, 
lins, 

would  greatly 
tro.  Inuigina- 
ic'h  tjouie  reud- 
of  my  pen.  I 
an  Ameriean, 
I  for  my  bung- 


day,  Juno,  1803. 
le  day  discover 
raotrt  aeeordii^g 
nos]»heres.  Xo 
tiiat  Sunday  at 
i  the  other  days 

a  nap.  Then  I 
lerc  I  found  t^yo 
.,  looking  as  dis- 
e  Bible.  Every 
in  all  puritanical 
is  a  day  devoted 
lich  God  has  in- 
is  to  die  of  the 

ver  thinks  of  us; 
5unday,  upon  his 


creation   in   Anicnca,  it   is  very  donbtlhl   wluihcr  he  re- 
joi.vs  m  I'ls  work,  on  siving  so  many  dishcartt'n.d  fn.vs. 
As  to  the  lhl)l.'  (hke  that  I  HmukI  in  (h,-  parlonn,  I  should 
not  have  lymarUl  it  cxc.pt   for  its  colossal  pro,,ortions. 
ill.,  zeal  ot  the  Mil.Ie  societies  is  sm-li  that  you  cannot  find 
a  hotel    -what  do  I  Hay?~a  chamber  in  a  hotel  or  steamer 
witiiontone  or  more  IMbles.     The  number  of  ( )|,1  Toti- 
men^rt  which  the    iJihle  societies   gratuitously  disi,.     •  of 
amounts  aumially  to  two  millions;  two-thirds  of  the  books 
are  sent  to  the  -Nhdays,  Chinese,  Hindoos,  ('atljis,  .Mah-aclies 
and  ^lamese,  wlio  doubth'ss  mciye  tlu'in  joyfullv,  ami  hcII 
theni  to  their  urocers  by  weight ;  the  ivmaiiKh'r  are  dis- 
ril.ute<l  in  the  I  nited  States,  esi-ecially  among  the  soldiers. 
1  <Iare  to  assert  that  among  them  miscreants  are  to  he  found, 
lyg-ard  essot  the  Hebrew  epics,  whose  sacrilci-ifMis  lupes  are 
lighted  \vith  tlie  erotic  heat  of  the  caiiticlo^)f  canticles  of 
oolonioii, 

I5esi(|c.s  the  Bible  societies  there  are,  in  every  town.  Tract 
societies,  which  rival  the  ardour  of  the  first,  and  whose  mis. 
Slot,  is  to  scatter  profiisi'ly  all  sorts  of  relio.i,,us  ITihle  stories 
eddying  ancc(h)tes,  niiraculoiis  conversions,  j.arallels   he- 
tweeii  infidels  and  Protestants,  iind  the  sectarian  excelleii.-e 
ot  the  sect  - — -  (here  jOace  the  name  of  one  of  the  two 
or  three  hundred  sects  that  flourish   in  the  United  States 
eai-h  one  ot  which  aspires  to  govern  the  others).    All  this  iii 
juimphlets,  tl^v-Ieuves,  etc.,  whicli  rain  upon  the  traveller  in 
the  steamer,  m  the  hotels,  in  the  railroad  cars,  in  the  streets 
everywhere,  iinally,  \vliere   the  ].resence  of  a  man  gises 
promise  ot  a  soul  to  be  saved  and  a  recruit  into  the  ranks 
ot   the  phalanx,  be  it  rnivcrsalist,  Methodist,  C'alvinist, 
1  useyite,  Maptist,  Spiritualist,  or  soinetiiini;  else.     I  recall 
a  good  luan  who  was  always  found  in  the  trains  i^oln-r  (V,,iu 
^ewlork  to  J'hiladeiphia,  at  seven  o'clock  on  siindav 
eveiung  (the  only  train  permitted  (.n   that  day),  and  who 
^hw<}  to  slip,  whether  or  i.o,  into  tiie  tra\ellers'  poekc'ts  a 
little  sermon  On  the  non-observance  of  the  Sabhath  day,  and 
tile  terrible  pumshmcnts  reserved  for  those  wIk.  by  travel- 
ling on  Sunday  committed  the  crime  of  high  treason  ni-aiiist 
the  Divinity. 

AVliat  could  I  do  ?     Xo  stores  o))en,  no  carriaires  in  the 
-streets,  not  the  least  noise,  not  the  least  sign  of  life,  excel. t 

17*  •  ^ 


1 


198 


S(>TI-:s  nr  A  I'L\MST. 


1 


Ts    f  it  luMl  iKvn  vi.it..l  l.y  tlu.  plau-.n;  or  .l.oK.n,      W  lan. 
Vham  .1     ...    1  aviuL'  1k'<'..  |..vs.Mt  at  ...,0  or  two  ,„«..m'.vs 

-visr;::;::.:%t;::;;\*'T!;;'';:ia.o. 
-sr:i;a;r'V/Vt^^^i;;r;^-;.!t-^^ 

a       i.V.      is  ,.c-.-n.itt..l  (l.y  p.in.u  to  tl..  l.ar  t  ..•ou. h  tho 
.'""•'"V  ,    ,  ,r.  .li.r-.iKlK    tlic  Rinii  ii  zi'il  i<.iiiil.iKn»i''  ..I 

;t":"'::;i1;  ,;.;;'>"  tLr-uo .,.  «„.„■.  „gai.,  o,, «,,  .uu 

V   i^        I  i  \n  the  phu-e  of  ^;o,.rs  i^  invar.al/b' a'' <?  <    -  ;  • 

This  ivnru..ls  me  of   an   infidont   fo.u.oftc.l  ^Mth   the 

r  •     0.8      e    Sohii.      This   c.harn.ii.g    a...l    acromphshcl 


Moxsn.fii  /,/:  SOI..M. 


it  M.I 


kc  hIukIowm 
Vi'iii  I'liiii't  li, 

.iWll  llplit'liis 

u.    Wciiritil 

I  "tnivi'i  A 
ho  Hiu  \vitli 
vo  umcHiu  ivrt 
thi'ivdii,  mill 

II  liiis  lui'ii  a 
Mliiy  iiii  ii'i*'- 
•n   iViiit  1  I'oi'i 

tlinmirh  tlio 
i(ly,\\iii>l<i'V, 
ui'itl  r  (ii'tiiiM 
I.  Tlu'  liiiii. 
mI  till'  liiui"— 

>o  May,  I  f*at 
—the  "^'Foivst 
ist  \\A  I  t'om- 
lu'  liotcl,  and, 
iiiitl  a  rlrrsjiy- 
i^'ii  of  Divine 
lie  t(»  stop  my 
n\islc.  1  now 
lunti-nanci'rt  of 
in  ou  any  such 

er  of  the  Sal)- 
fv)nii'l)otly  had 
,ly,  as  1  found 
iich  cases,  hy  a 
q)lain,  the  hat 
l»ly  an  old  one. 
(I'tod  with    the 
atroniplishod 
though  jieoi'lc 
I  account  of  her 
qiok'on)  was  in 
rely  u  delicious 


't   '•  |T<;..turc,  (nil  of  wif,  wl...  was  trvint;  hor  wi„,.s  i,, 

c  iv  T?"';  •'  '""'  "i'".'"  ^"'i''"'  '•''•"■'•■'^  ••'•♦■"-'■'"  •" 
:.:':- i.lLff';:^n;:^;::;:!i:r;^!;::-;^',::i^;;::i;:;: 

IJa.lcn-IJadcn  was  at  tliis  epoch  only  tlie  irmh./voiH  ..f 

'•;r"' ^;''''''-:^'^''''fllV'l''-noll.in.s,a.u|.a,nh!'    I  "^ 

"ilu' I.   ":"!;'''  ;-"''"'^'"^  Lis  <.p<'n.H  there,  nor  i  ..l  v 
<      l.t    Ins  concdies,  ,„„•,   „,    |i„c.,    Mn.o.  ,!,,  S..In.  I.er 

>"^"'l.s,  towlM,l,an.ll,erlK,n.tif,,leves,Kl,ewasiMd.I.  Vl 

ot   Ifalv.      At  He  pen<Ml  <.f  wl,i,.l,  I  npeak,  her  l.eantv  was 

<i  Kirs      one,  that   she   was  deaf  (a  as    she  still   is)-    fl„. 

o  her   hat  she  had  Afor-sieur  de  Solln  fi>r  a  husl     „    l\l    ^ 

H  eur  .1.  .sohu,  whom  s„ci,.ty,  with  that  instinctive  .kt  •    L 

on,  winch  IS    he  infallihlo  characteristic  of  t  ^  al  s 

J^oiiu.       iio   IS  dead,  now,  poor  man!   and   witln.iit  ev..|. 

i';?;."!'-  ,Tr"  '  !•"  '^^''r^'''  '^''^"^=^i'  ''■'^  BucccHHo  link 

lua.    hol.llyathrm  that  she  has  lost  .u.thin^  hy  the  c  1,   ... 

rsiu  il'''- VT  f  *''^;  ''•"•^" ^'^^  ^''^'  ^Jarchic;nc:ss of  s  !; o 

Mo  ,s    aid    o  have  heen  a  partic-ular  friend  of  Fer.   n  , 

time'  t(uu  '^V'"">^^''!'.  ^^"^  "'"^'^  visited  frequently  at  1  ' 
time  hy  Mlk.  ,le  Mo„t, , o,  ,unv  Empress)  I  fo.m.Mn  lo 
place  ot  iny  hut  which  was  new,  o,/o  ko  ,>l,l  an  of  «,  h 
Hn,s;ular  shape,  that  despite  my  goo<l  nature,  I  couMu 
keep  from  Imully  protesting  a.ffuinst  the  (-ha mro  (  ,,.  • 
ny  tnends  hear.!  me,  and  tou,.he.l  ^vith  .ny' misfo  ,ne 
promMled  to  exa.nine  the  fossil  chapeau  1  ha,l  in  my  a  s' 
^V'f  ^H*^ V   ''"'^  ^'."' "  ""  t'^«  hat  of  the  hushand  o    \l '       '  J 

okl  hata.     \V  hereupon  I  aj.proaclied  the  Count  and  8 nrp 
•nou.rh,  he  liad  my  hat  under  his  arm.     He  n  ade  me  ! 
thousand  excuse8_for  after  all  he  ^yas  a  ^rentleman-  md 
to  our  mutual  satisfaction  we  entered  once  moro  in?n  ,' 
session  of  our  legitimate  eoitiures.  '"^°  J'"'' 


•WV^'J*!^'!.  -i J^*'  .fe^^U-  ^U-'  '1'-  ^'<' '" 


I 


200 


yOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


Wo  leave  to-morrow  for  Wmiam.l;ort.  i"  r""''),'™;|V;: 
I  l,a4  sive.1  tl,i»  ««k  ten  concert.  ...  «.x  .lays  ...  tc.  ,1.1 

''lltht'havo  go,.e  this  cve„i,.s  *"  1'™'  ''■«  fVl'[; 
iXr  ,„n.-,stor,  who.  ^X^St"  .-"ncw 't,l"  or 

r,.7.miiy.ulu,,,.,isi,c.a;Ti,c,,..e,ug^^^^^^ 

tivc  brotl.crs,  ..11  iiii..istci-a,  ai.i  oiic  "sto .  -\''»l;'™  f^  r  .L 
c,.tl,..ria.m  with  which  ho  conihats  tS'tho    h-  v '  Wc  y 

rarl;  where  he  «m„ot  fail  to  di»tu.g..i»h  h.m>.eli. 

WituA».po«T,  r».,  Monday,  Jmie  15,  wra. 
Left  Elmira  this  mcn.i.is  at  4  o'clock.    Amve.l  at  \W  - 

•;^--:^i;^;orcoi^i^:!^ 

S;.VSra™rcCfi;,\erat"i  the  ^laee  that  ..nthtds 
mc  of  the  Swiss  villages. 

4  V.  M.    The  town  is  all  in  commotion     A  dospatch 
has  lecu  received  auuouuciug  the  mvasion  of  the  btatc  by 


I 


reniisylvania. 
ays  iirteu  dit- 

the  Rev.  Mr. 
told  be  irt  but 
if  bis  brotbor, 
isidorod  to  bo 
S"e\v  York  or 

are  nunisterB, 
ration  roi'kons 
iidam  Beecber- 
i  Cabin.'  The 
great  notoriety 
le  impassioned 

He  is  the  idol 
hey  bavc  lately 
iitbs'  voyage  to 
\s  accepted  the 
before  going  to 
imself. 

y,  June  15,  1863. 
Arrived  at  Wil- 
W ilbanisport  is 
housand  inbabi- 
lIs  'Ice  Creain.' 
,e  Inland  of  St. 
ende'  (a  Danisb 
■tubs,  and  where 
cines.    The  mil- 
the  roar  of  her 
he  probably  tries 
e  makes  one  sus- 
In  the  window 
hats,  the  formed 
ce  baskets  cmpt>/. 
i  is  an  air  of  ease, 
ace  that  reminds 


ion.    A  despatch 
a  of  the  State  by 


/-AA-  ,1A7;  M-CLELLAX. 


201 


three  columns  of  Uol,,]..,  nmn-binir  on  tbo  ,..,mt.l      Tl. , 
despHtrlMsp]a.,,i-dnlonu]ltlu.  st.vc-t   ,•<>      ,■  ^  ^  V   ;.    ^'"' 

ragiT  to  ],„„„.„„,,„„  if,  ■'""•>   ■''"■0«  m„ly  „„.l 

<  htatnig  espionage  at  tlio  same  tim.  nonfali/o  lo  s  ^ 
\  ims  tboy  miglit  otherwise  ren<ler.  The  iK'or.le  hen  s^.K .  J 
-becessu>n^.ts    to-niglit,    Unionists    to-,^oX,  ^^r^.' 

threatening  Washington  .L  fbrnlidZ;' fir  twV"^ 


and  with  the-  ,nost  darimrri  im HI    l^^.     '''  ''r"";'™""'  '■*'  '''«  l'''^'^^'^. 
to  be  cuuceived  of  by  any  one  of  orl^ai;  hiil^lS^^C^"''  '^  ^'"*- 


rTv-*"--iw'-^''' 


202 


SOTES  OF  A  riANIST. 


^,1  u .  lint  the  ('onfcdorate  concral 
and  arram^t  y  monaoc  1  it    Init  the  i  ^^^^^^^  ^^ 

ha<l  iiU-<l  ort  the  flank  ot  J  ^^  '^^^^^^^^^^^^  j^^,  n,ana>uvr  's  wore 

clays  Into  the  ^•^^t:;;^;;^;:;'i^,^taino«B  conntvy,  covered 
Besides,  1  ^'•"J^y^^:'"''^  5ntlnscc  ed  by  rivers  and  brooks, 
^vith  iniponetrable  ^^'^'f  ;^;;"Vt^Xl  J^^^  i^  ^o  say, 

,vith  ^"^"^^^"^^^l^^^^'rVttod  to  «,nn^  or  render  inettt- 

,vith  all  the  ^^"^«^"   .*^4\'^^,;"  ,'T^^  ynmlly, 

cient  the  vigilanec  ot  ^".f^  ;^,. J' f..^^  the   .estiniony  ot 
Lee  is  a  gr^^^S^''^"^^^"  V^^JS  S^^ 
General  Scc>tt,_who  '^^^'j^  it  must  not  be  forgotten 
l,ost  strategist  "^^^^^^tul  to    t  ack  the  Confederates  on 

that  the  1"^'<^-''«1^//X^^tt^u  0     themselves;  and  us  an 
their  own  ground  ;thejUt  erne ^  ^^^^^^^^^  ^,^^  g,, 

.;  V  \(      Another  rtcsiiatfli  from  the  Governor  of  ronn- 
d„,te.lemtos,  my>  tl.o  ''«1«  !'■ 'fiY,,^,™!  ,.    Thi.  last 

town  IS  only  loitj-n\e  muc^  crowds  multiply  and 

I  go  out  mto  '^'\f'fX^,lf„^i\o^ovo  the  shop  of 
increase  everv  ";«^{;;^-i^^l,l^^^  ot  strawberries  and  her 
;!::i£:ed  llSs^^Je^Su'Lre,  but  the  poor  woman 
appears  terribly  frightened.  .     ^^niams- 

port)  draws  up  m  ^^^ttlc  ar  aj  ^'\^'     1  ^  ^f  Germans 

It  nicessary  for  me  to  «£*^^^^^,f  ^s  are   Germans)? 
(all   the   musieians  m  ^\\!'^^^l  ^l^^^n  ^xx^ 
There  are  five  of  them :    ^^^X  insKent),  a  cavernous 
down  eo.istUution  I  ^P^f^^J  |^^^    f  e larronet  too  high,  a 

7K  i;;;i  rris;  vi«o=y':o -t  sa-  u,  ,oue.  i 


II 


derate  ctneral 
iind,  tbimks  to 
ananivi -s  were 
Altered  lor  two 

onntry,  covered 
era  luul  brooks, 
I,  that  is  to  sa.y, 
or  render  inetti- 
iitiou.     yinally,^ 
le  testui'.ony  ot 
he  ri-i»ellioii  the 
not  he  forgotten 
(jontbderates  on 
lives;  and  us  an 
wi  hoinlre  m  sit 
tan   ci'diro   j>ara 
honso  that,  even 
lim  out"). 

overnor  of  Pcnn- 
to  arms.     The 
zed  ^Iartinsl)urg, 
stown.    Tliis  last 
te  capital, 
■ds  multiply  and 
icforc  the  shop  of 
wherries  and  her 
the  poor  woman 

one  in  Williama- 
i-incipal  square ;  is 
posed  of  Germans 
es  are  Germans)? 
ton  with  a  hroken- 
ment),  a  cavernous 
irionet  too  high,  a 
ilent  and  irascible 
rough  their  hatred 
ist  otf  its  yoke.    I 


FAMILY  OF  THE  PATHS. 


203 


of  .l.isVoXmins  ;.c.h;,'rt'''''  '"""^  ""'">■  "'""  l'an>„.m„„i 
of  M  urioo*Sn£tllWr'"  "'  ^^''f  ■■'''"'":..•.  wife 
groat  tri,„„|,|,s     l's,ii,i  tlmt  SAn,  ,  fi     '"•'"ov"!  ««iio 

«o  ho.,  la,,.,  uaok  v-^;Xi;Ai'ii;r,a'r;,,t:H;:r """ 


204 


yOTESOFA  PiAMsr. 


Is 


fivov.arsa-o)xvasornu.en  ly^uuc-^'^"^^^^^^^ 

] lor  sons,  httmv  l?a  ih  .      ■  tu.^  diantaute-,  bravely 

buss.>  i.rofuiulu,  au.l  >1V>1^'  :^;X  i    uilv.     The  clnl.hr.i  ot 

^hiurice  Htrakosc-h,  a  ^  '  >  ;;'rv"^e  better  kiunvn  -,  C'ar- 
charnnn-  compositions  *  r'!'\,^uul  narvellous  a-ility 
lotta,  ^vhose  -■^'l^''}}''^.^'^'^,^^  j  J  n<.w  exeit-mg  in 
have  set  wiUl  the  L  VA^''  ,^  J^^^' '^^  {  ^',i  ni  which  Adclina 
London  a  second  -^l^tf/!.,.i'^\,,e  Carlo  and  Adelina; 
has  gained  there.  ^  ^^''1'  n.  d\vith  ;  as  to  Carlo, 
thcTast  Europe  is  already  "X^V  ,f  ^^^    ,'  ^iventurous 

tempor  has  led  him  to  <-a>i^'''"'VX  nnimerV,  to  New 
i  vod  the  violin  in  a  veiy.renu  ku  k^  1^^^^^^^^  ^^^^,,^ 

Vok,  ^vhere  he  sung,  ^"^/^■^^;|\"  I  ^^vhelv,  utter  haviiig 
seventeen  years  ^^J^^l^}^^  i^i^ar  led,  it  is  said 
been  the  hero  c.t  ^f^''\'-^'^''^^^^^^^  be<-ame  nnis  cal 

enlisted  as  pnvato  m  ^^J^^^^IJ,^  battle  bulletins, 
leader,  ^va8  killed  and  i'^^";  ^^^^  ^vho  to  so  many 

and  is  us  well  to-day  "?  f  \.  1"^/,;^^^^^^  l^,  'what  u  iamilv  1 
rnvilogcs  add  Jlud  o  tn  n  e    ban,  ^^^^^^^^^^^  ^^,,  ,,,,th 

i^Si^:^.:eSlCe3U.t  enumerated. 

WiLL.,M8P0KT,  Midnight,  June  15,  1863. 

I  .i,.ested  to  Strakosch  that  tH^^n<^rt  muunmced^ 

to-mon-ow  at  Hamsburg  ^-^^'^f^^^S^  to  be  bom- 
evident  that  people  ^vho  oxpec   e  try  n^on\     ^  ^^^^  ^^^^     ; 

barded  are  not  in  the  ^^a  «  ot  "^M^.Ke  risk  we  might 
'Eolian  Murmurs,'  '^tCMto  ^^ay  no    "V  ,,,ospect  v.f  a 

run  by  rushing  into  tl^e  lion    den-     l^^t  t^   1  ^^^^1^^^.  .^^,,,. 

good  house,  and  the  i;'^^'"\^  \   „f  ^^^^^^    .  ,af  ear  to  me. 
lion  were  exaggerated,  ^.^'V^^^j^i^^^^^^.^^Vra  vonng  man,  who 
At  the  concert  this  eve^ni  g,  1  ^''"^[^  {•  ,_^,J  „ot  seem- 


IXTEMPERANCE  OF  WOMAN. 


20;- 


;c(l  tionie  ft)uv  or 
.\v  Y»  rkinulaU 
San  FraiK'iseo. 
[Olio,  Antonio,  a 
intante-,  bravely 
The  tliiltlrfn  ot 
iitti,  niai-rifd  to 

liianist,  wlioso 
or  kntn\  n  ;  Car- 
irvollous   aiiility 
tiiowoxoitingin 
11  whicli  Ailolina 
rloand  AdoVma; 
itli ;  as  to  Carlo, 
lu8  udvonturous 
lexu'o  (whoro  he 
iimnnor) ;  to  ^\•^v 
•ood  (ho  was  then 
lero,  after  haviiii? 
luarrk'd,  it  is  said, 
^•,  bocamo  nnisioal 
ly  battle  bullotins, 
,t*,  who  to  80  many 

AVhat  a  t'annly '. 
,.ot-arnis  are  worth 
rated? 

night,  June  15,  1863. 
cert  announced  tor 
)0  given  up.     It  is 
noinent  to  be  boni- 
lear 'Cradle  Songs, 
f  the  risk  we  might 
lit  the  iirositeet_i)t  a 
le  rumoui-s  ot"  mva- 
u  deaf  ear  to  me. 
1  a  voung  man,  who 
on  til-toe,  not  seein- 
thk  c.untry  that  m 
•h  noise  as  vossible. 
■ot  not  being  able  to 


iiisoribe  thy  nanio  on  my  tablets,  or  have  it  oiK'-ravod  in 
letters  of  gold,  in  ordor  that  it  may  l)o  liandod  d.iwn  to  the 
adiniratioii  of  posterity ! 

I  leave  to-iuorrow  morning  \.\v  Tlarrisbnrir. 
Making  all  allowance  for  oxaggeration,  tlu'iv  is  nolonrror 
any  doubt  that  the  ivbols  are  advancing  towards  tlie  cimi- 
tal,  and  1  begin  to  tiiink  that  unless  it  be  a  jiart  of  tiie  i.lan 
of  Strakosch  to  make  me  ].lay  In-foro  (Joneral  .Jenkins  and 
his  staff,  our  concert  to-morrow  will  hardly  oome  off. 

Another  division,  or  rather  army  .orps,  of  which  the 
ooniniand  of  Jenkins  is  only  the  advance,  is  alroadv  at  Car- 
hsl. ,  in  the  valley  of  the  Cumborland.  Jt  is  ooinnianded 
by  Ewell,  the  general  thatStoiu-wall  Jackson  recommendod 
on  his  death-bed,  and  designated  as  worth v  of  succeeding- 
him  ui  the  command  of  the  famous  Stonowail  briirade.  'i'his 
General  Ewell  has  become  famous  for  his  rare  i'ntrei.iditv. 
lie  has  a  wooden  leg,  which  helms  fiistened  to  his  sadd'le 
on  the  day  of  battle. 

Stuart,  the  general  of  cavalry  of  Lee's  armv,  is  youu"-, 
handsome,  brave,  and   generous.      The    last  "in format  ic'lii 
havmo;  been  given  me  by  a  lialtimore  belle,  stroiiirly  at- 
tached to  the  Secessionists,  as  are  almost  all  the  laflios  of 
Maryland,  I  cannot  guarantee  its  exactitude.     A  woman's 
imagination  is  a  deceitful  prism  through  which  she  sees 
everytliiiig  rose  colour  (^r  everything  lilack,  accordiiK--  as 
she  loves  or  hates  the  object  which  is  reflected.     This  wou!d 
furnish,  if  I  knew  how  to  write,  matter  for  a  very  lono- 
chapter,  in  which,  acknowledging  tliat  it  is  the  privilo<n3 
of  woman  to  inspire  in  us  our  noljlest  actions,  and  to  be 
the  source  of  all  our  poesy,  I  would  dejilore  the  influence 
which  thtvy-  so  fatally  exert  over  our  conduct.     JJut  for  the 
women  our  civil  war  would  long  ago  have  been  ended. 
Th'V'Ugh  their  imprudent  zeal,  and' the   intemiierancc  of 
thoir  opinions,  which,  in  politics  as  in  other  thiiiifs,  carry 
them  beyond  tlieir  mark,  tlioy  have  on  both  sides  con- 
tributed to  foment  the  discord  and  to  envenom  the  strife. 
Quevedo,  the  great  satirist,  was  accustomed  to  cry  out  v.hoii 
any  event,  catasfophe,  or  crime  was  related  to  him,  "  Quicn 
rs  eOar      "AMio  is  she?"     Indeed,  women  are  found  at 
the  bottom  of  every  social  revolution,  and  in  all  the  little 
accidents  of  social  life. 
18 


.  mnr— mMJcaM 


206 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 


i 


for  some  time  nas  '^ow  uuuuv,    .v.  .>    w.^,   i  ---  ,      ^^      , 
toroc-ious  .irnpVu-ity  tho  nuvssacre  ot  a  1  c-lasses  in  tlu.  ^.^"t 
.nul  the  'strmiiC-iiH"(lo(l  women'  ot    Isow  Knglan  1,  an  h( 
llllmalla  the  aimilmation  of  tlu.  MoClellan  P^;^'!^:^: 


Tmhnoa  with  rrojn.lleoH,  thoy  oxeerato  or  ndore  n  j   '^nc\- 
T.k"  a  law,  a  race,  as  their  raiuour  or  their  i.er:  onal  attc.- 
&wl;.em  in  this  or  that  .liivetion;  --^  ""^  \\l: 
table  they  hecome  heroie,  without  susveetinsr  it   lil^^  '^  '; 
Jounlain? wh.)  wrote  prose  without  knowing  it    V^-V;^^ 
nn.l    uiH-etlectintr,  they  commit  with    innocent  tranknos 
n^nstrous  crueiTies,  ai  which  their  ton.lei'  natures  wm^^^^^ 
revolt  if  the  hlin.hiess  of   their  passion    .  ul   not  a  n    >t 
alwavs  prevent  them  from  seeing  rationally  ami  soheil^ 
-nV^  i^ou    .nvinir  entire  faith  to  the  stories  ot  .lewels  inade 
f  o      lon^s  cra-rhercl  on  the  hanle-fiehls   I  will  cite  that 
v,>man  of  the  South,  who  burst  into  laughter  <'"  ^_;;;:"g/[« 
funeral  procession  pass  by  of  a  young  K.lera  ^  J  ,^' '  V  "Y, 
noar  Uaton-Koiige ;  and  that  young  mad  woman  ot  the  ^  oi  tli, 
A_-  ])— 1,  untbrtunately  endowe.l  with  eloquence,  who, 
tor  some  time  has  gone  about  '1^;:^'!^"^'   F^^-J;;;;!^;!!! 

rtho 

uisc 

H  'S";oo'mX;;;;e";;;;;;;iB'vi;e'rebeis-and  ti^  ..>.»«. 

What  do  I  say?  The  ladies  of  BaltinK>re  o  > ashvi  k^ 
and  St.  Louis,  crying  as  loud  as  they  can  baxl,  llunali 
J^^  Jetferfon  Davil'^  in  the  presence  of  wounde<l  lederals, 
V  aSl'up  their  children  in  Confederate  flags,  and  making 
iK^i  sin-  every  time  an  otKcer  of  the  United  States  passes 
b     'My  Slaryland'  or  'Dixie,'  for  the  purpose  ot  drawing  on 

tl    mseives  the  prosecution  of  t^/*:^"^"^^'!^';^/^^!'^; 

imr  plausible  the  reproaches  winch  the  enemies  of  the  latter 

mf keft?  at  it  attacks  women  and  chil.lren ;  and  my  beautvtul 

tailc  fellow-citizens  in  New  Ouleans,  provoking  the  oth- 

oe"-i  (^-  r.utler  so  far  as  to  render  indispeneable    he  regret- 

abk  m4   ires  which  that  general  thought  it  lus  duty  to 

?re  seeng  a  conflict  becoming  imminent  on  account  ot 

IheS  h^LSnt  hostile  manifestations.   Here  is  what  a  ymmg 

offi  er  a  friend  of  mine,  wrote  to  me  on  this  subject :  "On 

aS  V  ng  a  New  Orleans  I  flattered  myself  that  I  Avas  above 

"ucl     Utle  annoyances;  I  had  made  up  "^y^J"-  t^;X" 

.ider  them  as  childish  behaviour;  but  soon,  I  admit,  the 

CO iitor/  ons,  the  grimaces,  the  sneers  of  the  women  that  I 

met     he  in  ulting  care  with  which  they  placed  their  hand- 

Silefs  on  their  nose  when  they  met  me,  or  wiped  their 


•■«f«(-«»«*S3s; 


GEXEIIAL  nUTUCIVS  ORDERS. 


207 


ndoro  n  |  inoi- 
■  jttT:  '>imi  attW'- 
crvoas  nii<l  ii-ri- 
insr  it,  like  Mr. 
o'it ;  passioimto 
R-eiit  t'ninkiH'ss 
•  natures  would 
•lid   not  almost 
Uy  and  soln-rly. 
,  of  jowvlrt  niado 
I  will  cite  that 
ter  on  seeing  tlie 
ral  otHeer.  killed 
iianot'tlieXortli, 

I  eloquence,  wlio, 
preaeliinf>;  with 

■ses  in  the  8outh  ; 
V  England,  who 
in  party,  heeausc 
and  the  women, 
re,  of  Nashville, 

II  hawl,  "Hurrah 
ounded  Federals, 
Hags,  and  making 
ited  States  passes 
osc  of  drawing  on 
lent,  or  of  render- 
jmies  of  the  latter 

and  my  beautiful 
•ovoking  the  offi- 
'neahle  the  regrct- 
ht  it  liis  duty  to_ 
■nt  on  account  of 
re  is  what  a  young 
this  subject :  "On 
f  that  I  was  above 

my  mind  to  con- 
?oon,  I  admit,  the 
the  women  that  I 
placed  their  hand- 
ne,  or  wiped  their 


dross  if  they  had  touclu.d  mo  in  ,,assinir,  tlio  affectation 
th  winch  tlu.y  walkod  in  the  n.ud  in  iho  nudX  ,  f       . 

3 1*"::': ':;; :;;  ^^^it  ^^^  i-— t  wia-re  i  v:' ;: 

•       vol       i;,7      1      r  ''f^'^.l'>"i'"i>'t  annoyan.vs,  i.,  a 


i|.;rection,  and  to  .sp..  hk;  t;^-;,;; ;:;;:;;  ;;i:;;,i:r 

iinmiliiition  that  von 


I'liy,  and  eausc-d  me  u  sort  of  ],ainful  liumiiii.Tion  tint  von 
r^i"""t  irnagme;  and  neverthdc.ss  these  insn  Iv    '  h 

,    .M  ^r      '      „"o^^'<^ver,  witliont  m.<lortat:in.r  to  mike 

S^  e^  ;hv  S' i""'  '"•:;"'/"  ^'"'''^'^  ^^y  '-^^  i-'--'" '  r 

u       a.ij,  MliK-l,  says  that 'every  woman  who  .],.>11  ;„ 
su  t  an  ofheor  or  soldier  in  the  streets  will  be  c    .  i, L*     1  .'," 

m,t  con.-ern  me.     Is  it  diffienlt  to  Jndire  by  this  a  .^•..  t 
0:^:^7^^'  a-1  eonsecfuently  h!ul  noticing  to  li;^     J     « 

I  do  not  like  war,  and  military  glory  affects  me  but 
shditly  when  it  is  not  jnstiti..lI>y^iV.at  pri  Sn  .! 

I  almn  war   and  that  of  the  war  of  Llepe Lie  ee  in      0 

Hdi^l^l;:]  ^;\r"j''^-  .^^-"^--i-i  womJ^  « 

ct^  es  t     bo    V^^^V  r^^^     odious  as  soon  as  their  nussion 

'Ladv  do  For         i-    V'^^^^'-'T'.  V^  ^-''""ty,  and  devotion. 

SMy  do  lorli,    of  wliom  Mach  ave    speaks,  was  -m  nn 

natural  mother,  an  in.leeent  v,raffo ;  C'la  riot  e  C  oril  v    ^" 

tJieboutl    and  North,  who  phu-e  themselves  in  their  b-d 


i  with 


.     ,l/H.+i,    1       !>',     .  """.  '""n  iiisuu,  Tiie  august  m 
horror!      ^  '^''^'^''^'''8  ndieulous  emblems,  till  me 


It  is  one  o'cloc\-  in  the  morning.     Thev  beat  the  'to 
ear't^me"  "°  "'^'  '''"^"■^''  ^^mkoseh  turns  u  .leaf 


208 


,\OTES  OF  A  riAMST. 


CIIArTEE  X. 

T....O  IP,  4  o'clock  in  tlio  morning. 
Wiu.iA.MflPOUT,  June  It*.  *  "  '^'"'^"- 

i-    ,.,   ^^\^(^  novcrnor   onU'rs   all   tuo 

c  leaves  for  •>"'"*'"t:V,l's;  ,,K  Army.    Sad  war! 
SSli;S;;r£to  teU\\,a„.»  in  „.ir ,.,„., 

I,TI.ECAR9ONT«BB0AD.0llAKn.SDUno. 

BecMly,  Hagorstown  ;.  jn  l^-^t^i^^tiSi^'S 
rates.  The  Govem()r  enjoins  the  iun|<^  1  ,^^  ^^  ^ij^. 
a<L  all  the  cnnty  ban-ek  ^vlach  ^1  ^nl  whU-h  arc 
pose  of;  tlicy  v.-x\\  '^'l^^lZT  All  along  the  mul  wo 
Ic,  be  thrown  up.  at  ";^^  ^^^^^  f  \,attle  array  and  perform- 
sec  the  agriculturists  in  '^^'"f'  "'%,,.„,  disposed  to  obey 
big  n^i^i^^^^T  evolutions     They  aUB^^  ^^^  able-bodied 

rrrioi!lt^qreueniy,and  to  take  the  Sus- 

beguis  to  see  V^^^^.^'^J^f '    ^.^i^cr     The  train  continues  to 

It  is  ten  o'cloc-k  in  the  mornin  .     J-   Harrisburg,  tiiat  is 

advance  at  the  highest  ^^l^^'Vtl  e  dtV  nmst  be^attacked 

I  say  towards  //?'^kins,  suuc  tW^  ^^^^^^  ^^.^  ^^^^ 

Sr^-t  ii;!:  »t;;:^U«tiou;  but  our^lves, 


'm^^ 


AN  AS X 10 US  noun. 


200 


It  in  tlio  morning. 

orders   all   tbo 
;e  of  the   State 

;8S,  an«l  a  iDajor 
iitbnuotl  WW  that 
iit.  Another  of 
Lrmy.    Sad  warl 

0  cac-h  other  l)y 
rrihle  strife  may 
w  m  their  hands  I 

DAD  TO  IlAKBlSDUKO. 

,1  of  the  Confede- 
Ytlace  before  tlieir 
may  have  to  dis- 
icationrt  whii'h  arc 
Joni?  the  road  we 
rray  and  perform- 
dii^posed  to  oV)ey 
n-s  all  al)lc-ho<lie«l 

1  to  take  the  Sna- 

ast  station  apsnrcs 
e  than  thirty  miles 
itened.      Strukosch 

e  train  continues  to 
Ilarrisbnrg,  tiiat  is 
must  he  attacke(l 
What  shall  we  do  i 
tioii-,  but  ourselves, 


confSr"'^'  l'^'-'""^-^^-'"^^  '^  ^<>  '--oine  of  u,  u.  all  this 
1P.M.     A  mile   tlus  side  of  Ilarrlshurir   the   road   ^^ 

•    ",!""- ,'•>,""  ^li«  l«ime'"^e  muHH  of  mereliandi^i.  eh- 
iuh  for  the  last  twelve  hourn  has  been  c..nec'  tte^^^^^ 
e  town  to  avoid  capture  o-  burniuir  by  the    v     Is      The 

ui;  natl-hv-^  Th  ^^'''^'S' }'^^  '"-'K^over  'Ihe  5„4  ^ 
iian  .1— w  |,j  .^  j|,e  anxiety  niereasfs.  ('an  voii  .Mm...  Un 
urn;  hm^  mo.v  temhl.  than  the  expe..tatio^  ,/      ,.e^^  u" 

;;  .K  .fly-n.fbrted,  and  the  i.lia  Jt^iZ  t      he  S ";  ^ 
at  thiH  tune  is  not  at  all  encoura-inj;.     JJut  the  U    .  st .  . 
iHK  ...the  middle  of  the  bri-l.^efthS  sile,^  ,  I'Sn      1^ 
the  so htude  whieh  surrounds  us,  the  river  whoLTo    a    I 
tremuloiLs  waves  murmur  beneath  our  feetTaud  abmx. 
our  iKnoranee  of  what  is  taking?  plaee  in  from   an   \vl 

I  w  aJk  ot  U\  enty  minutes.     Wc  fine   at  the  enti-ance  of  tbo 
depot  pik.s,  nay  mountains  of  trunk.,  encunibe  •  h     he  w 
pneot  the  mountains  has  been  tunnell...      v     n.;    V    -^i* 
locomotive. .   l>ise.nbowelledV.-mS^^  ..o^,    i !  J;  !  "Ii:^ 

iS-;n^^^^^ 

ni.„  o.  f  "  ^  ^"^  J"*^'  ^^"^'^'^  «  ^^'m^'^  of  my  two 
pianos-the  cowardly  mastodons—TChi  .kerinir  fom-iZ  „,  u 
snu-ly  lying  m  a  corner  and  in  i^foc-t  healt b  ^^  '^  'f  "^ 
mas^Klons  .vhidi  Chickering  nl.ul^^ pj  '  ^  ^'^Z  Hi 
ou  mo  m  all  my  i.eregri nations.  The  tail  if  the  e Vnon- 
ster  pianos  measures  three  feet  in  width.    Their  S.Zis 


210 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 


ton  fcot-  tlH'V  liuvo  Hov.'n  nn.l  a  l.alf  o.H4ivc«,  nn«l  wUli  tlu' 

.  ::l:/tl.l  lonni.h.l.U;  aPP— -  '''TVn:  'n;"'^ 
,,„.l  olK..ru«nt  .Iccilitv  to  tl..-  least  Miowmfnt  ot  i  .>  ln.^,.1^. 
r  l'l«Tn«  So,.H  (Ol.i.k.nnK,  flu;  fatlu-r,  the  «;""<;' 

•h- la  our  an.r.onstrurtiv.  talent,  .mven  tor  none  t  urn. 
nVt  a  mu'nse  in,,.nlsi..u  to  the  n.anutaetnre  ot  jnanos. 
Ci  n  a.-t<.rie.  at  UoHton  tun.  out  tortv-two  |.,an.H  a 
!v  '  ^/  K  V  '  hun.lre.l  worknu.,  ..re  eonstantiy  euM-loved  n. 
them  The  later  instrunu'nts,  eonHtruete.l  on  new  no.lels  oi 
Their  ou'l  Invention,  rival,  if  they  do  not  .my..^  the  hnest 

^'ySowtlS  "^V  l>-a'-t  l-"t  at  the  hlea  of  leaving,  these 
t.  >  ;  "e";:,n^aniis  of  n.y  lite  ex,<.se.l  to  t  k-  c  .n,ars  ot 
a  hoinhanhnont  or  an  attack  hy  assau  t.  ';,'•; 
I'erh-iiH  to-mon-ow  you  will  have  lived  !  ^  «>u  w  dl  pioD- 
ihwXr^o  kd  the  tine  hivouae.iire  -^  ^^!l^ ^^^T'Z 
('  nfederate  soldier,  who  will  sec  with  an  m.litlerent  e>o 
^;  Mlirmonious  howels  consumed  -itho.d  any  jvganl  h. 
the  three  hundred  concerts  which  you  luixe  sunnul  a. 
tile  ti. Wity  with  which  you   have  L.llowed   mo  in   my 

"^¥;;"Sy^S^;S  to  he  attacked  every  moment  Thivo 
thou  and  i.ers,U  arc  at  work  throw  n|i  up  ^'''trcnehmo  ,  .. 
The  clerjxy  (many  hundred  persons),  m  a  meet  ng  wh  h 
took  V  lace  on  this  Kuhject,  have  placed  themselves  at  the 
Vspommi  of  the  Goveinor,  to  he  employed  jor  1k>  de  encc 
of  the  city.  TriestH,  pastors,  rcctoi-s,  ministers  ot  all 
aen^ii:^fcnB,are  at't4  monvent  -J^ged  "i  wd.ecding 

h-irrowa  full  of  earth  and  in  digging  P^«  Vf,  •  -K 

Daiiowa  i"'' *';     »        ,.  ^       y  j^  to  send  this  evening 

twoTthre    S^^^^  ^'--  X-k  f^  'ir 

^.c^'lT  eont^i^ont.      The   ^vc.ith  Ke^mei.  ot  J^ 

X-itional  Guards  s  already  on  the  wa\.  llns  "^^-gi"^^"}' 
wh  we  fine  .liscipline  Prince  Napoleon  so  mtua.  admired  s 
romv>ose  of  yo  ing  men  of  the  aristocracy  ot  the  nuprad 
city  Many  other  rogimentB  of  volunteers  aye  soon  o 
follow  Evcryhody  here  exce).t  women  ami  children  ap- 
peal disnoe-V  to  ifght.  The  llishanded  otiicers  and  men 
S  the  last  nine  months'  levies  have  met  and  re-tormod 
their  old  regimentis. 


sh\sAT/<>\.t/.  \/:\is. 


•Jll 


in<l  witli  tlu» 
11  rlmniiinj!; 

■  my  liiijU'.rf*. 
,'  touiitU'i'  <>l 
iu-s>)  l.av«',  l»y 
r  Homo  timo 
I IV  of  itiinios. 
-two  iiianos  a 

■  fiii|iloyt'tl  ill 
\c\v  iimdi'lrt  of 
(iisH  till'  tinrHt 

loaviiig  those 
lie  cliaiKTrt  of 
I'oor  iiiatios! 
'on  will  proVt- 
H)iiu'  ohsfuro 
iiditl'i'ivnt  «'yo 
my  rt'gard  for 
Hurvivi'd  aiul 
d   me   ill   my 

omeiit.  Three 
,'ntreiulimeiit<*. 
neotiiig  which 
mselves  at  tlie 
for  the  defence 
init«ters  of  all 
'i\  in  wheeling 

lor  the  shari»- 
ud  this  eveinng 
York  also  fur- 
ttiment  of  the 
I'his  regiment, 
nch  admired,  is 
of  the  imperial 
rs  are  soon  to 
lid  children  ap- 
fticerrt  and  men 

and  re-formod 


p.  P.  "SI.  A  halt. TV  nf  lu-lilicry  parses  :it  full  trailM|,. 
AVe  arc  crushed  in  tin-  iiiid>t  tif  tlic  crowd,  .loins's  ilniil 
is  u  ([iiarter  of  n  mile  oil".  XnnicroiH  groups  Ktand  iM-fore 
tli(»  telegra|ili  otiii'c.  Tlie  l-i'liels,  file  dcs|iiili  lies  jiuiioMiiee, 
are  ciglilecu  miles  oil".  All  llie  sliops  are  closed,  juid  most 
of  the  liouscs  from  the  garret  to  the  ct-lliir. 

"  Decidedly  our  coiKcrt  is  done  fori"  exclnims  iim  jiiteous 
voice  my  poor  Stiakosch,  A\lin  has  just  returned  froui  u 
voyug*'  of  discovery.  The  retlcction  is  u  rather  late  oii", 
and  nroves  that  my  excellent  I'rienil  and  agent  is  n  hopetul 
yoiitli,  and  trusts  to  the  last,  like  Micauher,  that  sonu-- 
thiiig  w  ill  '  turn  up.' 

The  hotel  is  ovi'rruii  hy  a  noisy  crowd,  in  which  [ 
recognize  manv  Xew  York  rcjiortcrs,  sent  in  haste  hv  tlu' 
great  journals  ui  the  hope  f)f  furnishing  their  reailcrs'with 
sensational  news.  Sensational  news  is  a  new  svnoiivme  for 
'u  canard.'  The  three  preti'iidcd  captures  ot'  Charleston, 
and  that  of  \'ickshurir,  a  yi'ar  ago,  tlu,'  death  of  .Icffcrsoii 
|)avis,  an<l  so  many  otlicr  canards  have  hccn  irr>f  iii;/(i<i(iii.^ 
caiit/iiixitioiis  of  the  newspapers,  and  thanks  to  Which,  hy 
causing  the  sale  of  many  millions  of  '  hullctins,'  tiiey  have 
realized  eiiornjous  jtrotits.  Unfortunately  everything'^  wiars 
out  in  this  world,  and  credulity  is  so  (leadened,  that  now 
everything  is  douhted.  I  hear  some  people  around  me  who 
assert  that  the  rehels  liave  never  stirred  from  their  general 
quarters  on  the  J 'otomac.  This  is  going  too  tiir.  A  icji 
merchant  of  the  city,  who  was  riding  out  this  morning  in 
his  eciuipago  drawn  hy  two  splendiil  liorses,  was  liiado 
prisoner  hy  the  Confederate  vedettes.  His  liorses  and 
carriage  were  seized,  and  he  was  not  released  until  he  liad 
sworn  not  to  make  any  remarks  on  what  he  had  seen  in 
the  rehel  camp,  I  have  just  Hjioken  to  him.  The  news- 
papers have  told  the  truth  ibr  once. 

"Dinner,  gentlemen!"  A  general  rush  to  the  dining- 
room.  The  hotel  is  just  now'literally  invaded.  I  sueccinl 
with  great  diffieulty  in  finding  a  i)lace  at  the  tahle.  The 
faces  of  the  peojile  ahout  me  are  tilled  with  alarm.  (Jut- 
sido  niniours  are  repeated  in  a  low  voice.  The  poor  hlacks 
who  wait  upon  us  look  so  sad  and  suitpliant,  that  it  would 
seem  to  me  laughahle  if  I  did  not  know  the  liorrors  of. 
slavery  and  the  fate  reser\ed  for  the  free  negroes  of  tlie 


n 


2^2  yoTKS  or  A  /-/.i.v/>r. 

":^/  M Jain  unni  Th.  (w.v.n...-,  i.y  u  i"--!;;'";';;:;;;' 

1  Ua        .,  tlu.  Htatc"  ill  which  tho  city  i-  at  |.ivKcnt,  it  t  U! 
;;^l!i:kV^:LncinK  they  will  take    tw 

,,■„,..  ahlc  to  luako  the  leant  resistance..  It  '^^Z";;  ' 
ho  ci ti/.cnH  aro  u.hUt  anus  or  working  uj.on  J';,  '^■ 
ai.is-  hnt  these  fortitications,thr..wn  np  ni  a  tew  houi-s, 
^e  i  cJ,  III  or  sustaining  an  attack  |.  r!jf.,  a.nK  .n  -my 
ea'o  will  n..t  l.o  of  any  use  unless  the  Cunledorutes  guo 
tiiuJ  lor  the  ilefence  to  ho  organize.l. 

I  see  -ill  alon"  the  river  great  clou.ls,  of  diiHt;  it  is  tioni 
thJ  iKTels  o    c  Ttlo  whic-h  the  iVightenc;!  fanners  arc  .  riv- 
ig  tow  mis  the  mountains,  in  hopes  of  hahng  tl.en.  im 
tlu;  rehels      The   ivport  spreads  that  a  spy  has  )Ust  beeti 
n  Uel      A  vcmng  inanwh..Nvasw(.rking  on  the  tort.ti- 
eato      was  k'ille.l^  moment  ago  hy  falling  from  an  em- 
ha  knu^      twenty-four   feet  high.      (!reat  ^'onstenmio   ! 
Gtneml  Miln.y,  a>mman.li.g  the  avant-guardof  the  K  lo- 
rd A    n  v  hastn  defeated  •  Viso<pnpage  is  m  the  posscM- 
sSn  of  tii'e  enemy,  and  his  unay  route<E    The  olhcers  ot 

m    he  et  n maiKl,  arrives  this  evening  to  place  himselt  at 

Ki  ;,r ; fimna,  a,,.!  ,  'I'nt  an,l  «in  take  g,.«l  ca...  not 
:;'l,;,t  hM  rlmviug  at-tl..  l..-«-„lc.„.ial  chau-  after 
Liueoln. 


•»t('f«.  'Tlio 
iiuTiil  kiifil. 
tliroiijfli  tho 

Tin-  ccUllti- 
wi'iiirt  to  l)t' 

ijruyiu'ss  ot' 
lii'ii  a  negro 

roilli;    to    Ull! 

iroc'iiiiiinlion, 
ircKi'iit  tlii'iii- 
nwnt,  if  tlu! 
t  without  itrt 
<  true  that  all 
)ii  tlic  lortiti- 
i  a  tew  hours, 
',  aiitl,  in  any 
tcdomtcrt  give 

iHt ;  it  irt  fnviu 
uorrt  arc  driv- 
ii<r  thi'Ui  from 
hurt  just  hirii 
on  tiio  t'ortiti- 
r  from  au  ein- 
courttoniation! 
(I  of  tho  Fedo- 
1  in  tho  possos- 
rho  olHcers  of 

ion.  The  groat 
o  is  the  idol  of 
lias  taken  from 
laoo  himself  at 
erush  Lee  and 
;  ho  irt  thought- 
good  oaro  not 
certain  chant'oa 
tial  chair  after 


UI'.MIiF.CMin'S  nMiUFR. 


218 


Old  men,  Women,  and  eliildri'n  mv  Ituving  the  eltv.  A 
train  lelf  this  inoniing  carrying  off  many  tlioiisand  f'niri- 
tiyes.  Our  position  in  a  few  hours  has  liei'ome  verv  crifjcul. 
\N'«'  camiot  ad.ance,  and  I  fear  lest  our  n'treat  should  lie 
tut  off,  A  militia  regiment  passes  at  ([uiek-slcp;  it  is 
going  to  tlie  front.  They  are,  for  the  most  part,  young  men 
frniu  fourti'cn  to  eighteen  years  old,  Tliey  muriiiur  aitntly 
against  I'hiladeljihia,  which,  heing  the  primipal  «ifv  in  tho 
Stato  (numhering  six  hundntl  thousand  inhaltitants),  has 
not  yet  sent  one  reginn'ut  of  its  National  (iniirds  to  dt  ftiid 
tile  seat  of  g()vernment,  while  the  distant  States  (.f  New 
Jersey,  New  York,  and  even  l{liodo  Island,  have  already 
fiflt'i'U  or  twenty  thousand  men  on  the  road  for  Harrishin'g 
antl  tiu!  valley  of  the  Cumherland. 

A  train  leaving  in  an  luair  for  Philadelnhia,  we  run  to 
tho  station.  Strakoseh  will  remain  h«'hind  to  sea  re  h  fur 
our  trunks,  which  have  hcen  missing  these  two  hours.  My 
tuner  has  lost  liis  head  ;  the  two  mastodons  of  Chiekeringrt 
liavo  disaiipeared,  and  the  t'xpri'ss  company  declines  to  ho 
responsihie  for  them.  Too  ohstinate  Strakoseh,  why  in  tho 
world  did  ho  mako  u«  como  to  ilarrishiirg! 

IlARiii^irnn,  Jiiiic  Ul. 

I  have  lately  learned  from  an  ex-oflicer  of  Heauregaril's 
(no'-  retired  from  tho  army)  that  thi'  latter  has  for  his  har- 
her  iiudjhrfdhiiu  a  young  Spaniard,  who  is  attached  to  liini 
and  follows  him  everywhere.  Hy  tho  most  singular  coin- 
eidenco,  this  is  no  other  than  Jfauimi,  tho  Vitth- i/ilmio  that, 
wlieii  quite  a  child,  I  adopted  in  Spain,  and  that  some  of 
my  friends  will  remeinher  to  have  seen  in  his  picturescpio 
Andalusian  dross,  when  some  years  ago  I  arrived  in  Now 
York. 

T  met  him  in  18')!,  half  naked,  running  tho  streets  of 
Valladolid,  and  making  little  wax  figures.  '  IIo  u  ,is  <lying 
with  liunger,  and  not  wishing  to  asks  alms,  ho  otle-ed  to 
tho  i)assor8  hy  the  simjilo  products  of  his  art.  He  was  seven 
yoai-s  old.  Almndonod,  ho  said,  hy  his  j)aronts,  tho  noor 
child  had  forgotten  oven  tho  name  of  tlio  town  inwhi( 
was  horn, and  only  romcmhored  the  harsh  treatment  w  .... 
lie  suffered  from  his  father,  a  gitano  (gypsy),  like  liimself 
Attracted  hy  liis  intelligent  look,  I  adopted  him.     At  tho 


he 

ich 


1/i 


214 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


c'.d  of  some  wecks,Rainou  was  traiistbniie(l,thank8  to  acom- 
l)k'to  uuijo  costume  whieh  I  had  iiuuk-  for  him,  and  thanks 
aW)  to  that  happy  thom?htk>ssness  of  ckildhood,  whu-li  tof- 
L'ets  the  tr()nl)k"s  of  the  evening,  and  eonceak  with  a  golden 
veil  tlic  darkness  of  tlie  morrow.     lie  accompanied  me  tor 
ci<'hteen  months  through  all  my  travels  in  Spam.     Kamoii 
soon  became  cckhratetl.     His  ' (iracia,'  his  ' Sal  Andaluza, 
the  history  of  his  ad')ptioii,  and  his  embroidered  leggings, 
ma<lc  a  little  hero  of  him.     The  (iueen  asked  to  see  him, 
an<l  as  a  faithful  ludnhjo,  he  had  the  honour  of  presenting 
to  her  maiesty  his  chrf-'lmi^'n\ nVitth  waxen  hnll,  m which 
he  luid  displaved  all  the  resources  of  his  talent,  and  Avhich 
da//.led  less  by  the  exactitude  of  its  contour,  than  by  the 
originality  of  its  pose.     I  even  think  I  remember  that  this 
bull  was  grotes(nic,hutas  Ramon  had  the  taith  which  saves 
in  art  as'in  other  things,  I  presided  gravely  at  the  presen- 
tation  to  his  sovereign  of  the  work  ot  my  protege,  and 
perhaps  the  poor  boy  still  flatters  himselt  every  morning, 
in  shavuig  his  general,  with  the  intoxicating  illusion  that 
his  bull   ornaments  one  ot   the  galleries  ot   the    Alca/.ar 

^'Tcalled  to  France,  I  embarked  at  Cadiz  for  ^larseilks. 
The  vessel  putting  in  at  Almeria,  we  landed,  Kamon  an.l  I. 
Arrived  at  the  Pia/.a  de  Armas,  my  attention  was  attractc.l 
by  a  Bohemian  (gypsy),  who  pei-sevcTcd  m  tollowmgus  lor 
Sine  time  and  attentively  observing  Monsmir  Ramon.    A  1 
at  once  they  flew  into  each  others'  arms ;  '  l)u)s  niio,  '  ^   r- 
gin  Mariaf'     It  is  my  brother!  it  is  thou!  i^^^^j}^ 
theatre,  and  there  they  are  still  embracing.     "Scnoi,    Mid 
£  non  to  me  with  an  expression  which  did  little  honour  to 
his  patriotic  feelings  and  in  which  I  saw  less  of  tcndeniess 
than  .>f  fear,  »  Sefior,  I  know  the  bouses  ;  it  is  here  where 
mv  >  padre'  beat  me  so  much."     ^  l.e  croNvd,  dmwii  by  this 
touclin- scene,  commenced  with  ;hat  kindness  for  strangei.-, 
which  diaracteri.es  the  people  of  Andalusia  to  ninrninr 
loudlv  against  'My  Lord'  (everything  in  Andalusia  A\hK  i 
is  not  Spanish  is  1^:nLrlish  or  French)  who  wished  to  sepa- 
rate a  child  from  its  lawful  guardians.  ,T   „  t, 
Thev  made  Ramon  understand  that  he  had  nothing  to 
fear,  tliat  he  was  at  home,  that  I  had  no  more  right  over 
him ;  but  the  poor  little  fellow,  little  reassured  by  the  idea 


lankatoaoom- 
n,  and  thanks 
i()(l,  which  for- 
with  a  f>j()l(leu 
panied  nic  for 
pain.     Kaniou 
<al  Andahiza,' 
lerod  loggings^, 
ed  to  see  him, 
•  of  pro.-ic'nting 
1  hnll,  in  wliifh 
L'nt,  and  Avhich 
ir,  than  by  the 
'nibcr  that  this 
th  which  wivL'S 
'  at  the  prc'son- 
y  protege,  and 
every  morning, 
g  illusion  that 
f  the  'Aleazar 

;  for  Marseille:*. 
L,  Kamon  and  I. 
Ml  was  attracted 
following  us  for 
nr  Ramon.  All 
Dios  mio,'  '  Vir- 
!  just  as  at  the 
"  Scnor,"  said 
little  honour  to 
}ss  of  tenderness 
it  is  hero  where 
1,  drawn  by  this 
icss  for  strangers 
isia  to  nnirmur 
Uidalusia  which 
wished  to  sepa- 

had  nothing  to 
more  right  over 
ured  by  the  idea 


FATHER  RAM  OX. 


215 


of  agam  finding  the  paternal  tent,  and  frightened  at  the 
].erspective  ot  the  enchantments  of  nomadlife,  whose  for- 
gotten souvenirs  were  now  oiiening  before  his  eyes  with 
menacing  brightness,  the  poor  little  fellow  said,  clin.ri.isr 
tomo,  more  dead  than  alive,  -8enor,  per  Dios,  lurme 

rn''*"/ V  1  ^*  *''■  ^'"^  ^''''^  ''^'  ^'*^^^'  ^'^^'"^"•'  *1"  "'^t  i'or>iako  me.) 
Iliat  did  not  ai.pear  to  be  the  wish  of  the  crowd  ;  as  the 
ones,  "Lot  us  rail  the  alcalde;  to  prison  with  the  kidnapi)er 
ot  children!  made  themselves  heard.  I  endeavoured  to 
make  an  explanation.  "Xo  a  la  careel."  I  must  refe;  "t  to 
the  decision  ot  t^eiior  Corregidor,  and  here  we  are  on  the 
Auiy,  i  at  tiio  lu'ad,  IJanion  hanging  on  to  mv  greatcoat,  and 
the  crowd  pressmg  on  my  heels.     The  Corregidor  was  fortu- 

JS,  •^;.'P!./'""''f^  ^"^"'-    ^I«  li'-^'l  lic'ard  ine  in  Madrid. 
Ala  toi,  J.e  said  to  me,  "I  can  do  nothing  in  this  matter; 
the  child  has  a  iather,  it  is  for  him  to  decide."     His  father 
alter  having  boen  a  horse  dealer  at  fairs,  some  years  since 
joined  con  amore  the  armed  contrabandists. 

Having,  at  the  moment  when  he  had  brouglit  one  of  his 
commercial  operations  to  a  haj^py  conclusion,  met  a  refrac- 
tory custom-house  officer,  he  had  very  gently  dispatched 
hull  with  a  blow  of  a  'Xavaja.'  -^  »       ^         i 

The  knite  was  found  near  the  corpse,  Father  Ramon 
was  arrested,  confessed,  and  had  just  been  condemned  to  l)e 
garroted,    that  is  to  say  strangled  (the  punishment  still 
used  m  t^pain).     He  was  in  a  cell  on  the  erround  tloor  of  the 
Careel  publica.      Without  taking  the  trouble  of  enterin.r 
the  prison,  the  Corregidor,  who  had  wished  me  well,  took 
charge  ot  the  negotiation,  and  as  Ramon,  myself,  and  the 
crowd  (now  the  entire  town)  had  followed,  explained  to 
Jiiin  the  state  of  affairs— the  windows  of  the  cell  walled  up 
to  the  hei^ght  of  six  feet  terminated  by  an  iron  gratini 
whuh,  while  It  permitted  the  light  to  enter,  prevented  tlTc' 
prisoner  trom  seeing  out  or  being  seen.     "  A  rich  English- 
man    (.  ? )  shouted  the  Corregidor  to  him, »  has  adopted  your 
son  Ramon      AV  ill  you  authorize  him  to  take  him  with 
him   into   his  own  country?"     Soon  a  doleful  voice  was 
heard!  -My  son  Ramon,  the  child  of  my  bowels,   Jesus 
Maria     A  irgin  del  Carmen !     Abandon  him  to  an  English- 
man ;   \  on  cannot  think  of  it,  Senor  CoriViridor !"     "lie  is 
right,"  said  the  crowd ;  and  I  avow  I  did  hut  "know  well 


21G 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 


xvlnt  to  answer.     I  lookcl  at  Ramon ;  ho  had  such  a  i.itifnl 
:!untonanr  Uslook  was  so  elo,nent,  that  1  felt  wilhn.  to 
luakc.  a  last  atten.i.t.    I  .losiml  the  (V.rrc-ulor  to  dnve  awa 
the  erowd   and  i-ennit  me  to  sneak   privately  if^^^^^ 
walled  wuxlow  hetween  ns)  .vith  father  Kan.on.     In  .ho.  t 
the  result  of  the  eonsultation  was  that  at    he  end  ot  nxe 
mimites,  the  softened  erowd  could  see  two  hands  issue  he- 
tween the  Lars  of  the  window  (ahsolutely  as  in  the  tine  pie- 
tuieof  Panl  Delaroche  representing  Lord  Mattord  when  he 

receives  tlic  henedictiou  of m  which  we  perceive 

only  the  hands).  I  pot  upon  a  stone,  I  |.lace<  «;";'<;  r/,^. 
three  dollars  into  one  of  the  extended  ha.us,  and  led  a  n  a 
the  son  of  Mr.  Ramon,  who  his  lather  decla.r.l  he  alan- 
oned  to  mc  as  my  entire  y-roperty.  The  people  apphu.lj  U 
felicitated  Ramon,  still  hlue  from  fright,  cne<  out  A  n. 
el  inSesl"  reconducted  me  as  far  as  the  vesse  ,  an.l  woulu 
have  carried  me  in  triumph  if  my  natural  modes  y  an.l  m^ 
imi'.tiint  desire  to  ho  rid  of  my  new  friends  had  not  heen 
opposed  to  it. 

Haurisdcro,  Juno  16,  4  P.  M. 

The  tocsin  sounds,  the  drums  heat  a  call  t<.  arms.  ^Mili- 
tary hands  parade  the  streets,  playing  national  a'rs  t  c 
national  flag  is  home  amid  acclamations,  and  produces  an 
Sesl^Jihahi;  enthusiasm.  i^^test.^r,hivt  at  tlj.  mm^^^ 
I  feel  as  if  I  should  love  to  he  a  soldier,  ^o?'/  /^^^'l  •  ^^  ^''^^ 
doe.  military  enthusiasm. amount  to?  A  little  musu  a 
™t  deal  c/ noise,  arms  which  glitter  in  the  sun  and  the 
y-o  vd  who  look  on!  Admirahle  Bimphcit^'  <.t  means, 
vhila  would  appear  providential^  to  me  it  1  '^^^:^J^ 
member  that  hoth  si<les  possess  the  same  elements  ot  enthu- 
Si,  ciw<l,  sun,  and  noise,  and  consequently  the  same 

^'^i;;:it;llrSris  th.  tmth?  ^liich  are  the  martyrs? 
Wl  ch  are  the  executionei-s?  Jefferson  Davis  decrees 
tha  kso-i  ing  to  the  Almighty  for  the  manitV^t  rrotection 
M  .hie  gives  to  the  Confederate  arms;  Lincoln  onlers 
u  lie  m|l-rs  to  ask  of  God  continuance  of  his  favour  to 
Kl^gloKs  starry  Hag,  s^-mhol  of  j-ti^e  and  of  clvlh^a- 
tioir  it  is  in  the  name  of  outraged  liherty  that  the  ^ovu 
S  it  Riclimoiid  demands  the  national  independenee  ot 


1  such  a  i>itiful 
Ic'lt  willing:  to 
r  to  drive  mvay 
tely  (save   the 
ioi\.     In  ^■llOl•t, 
the  end  of  rive 
hands  issne  lie- 
in  the  rine  j>i(- 
aftord  when  he 
I'h  we  iiereeivo 
[U-ed  eantionsly 
,and  I  led  away 
flared  he  ahan- 
[>l)le  ayiphmded, 
•ied  out,  "Viva 
ssel,  and  wonld 
nodesty  and  my 
la  had  not  been 


Juno  10,  4  P.  M. 

to  arms.  !Mili- 
tional  airs ;  the 
md  ]>ro(Uu'es  an 
t  at  this  moment 
Stood  God!  \vhat 
L  little  ninsie,  a 
the  snn,  and  the 
iieity  of   means, 

if  I  did  not  re- 
ements  of  enthii- 
uently  the  same 

ire  the  martyrs? 
n  Davis  decrees 
mifest  protection 
;  Lincoln  orders 
I  of  his  favour  to 
5  and  of  civiliza- 
that  the  Govern- 
iudcpeudenco  of 


FLIGHT  AT  llARRISnCRG. 


217 


the  South,  and  inflames  the  ardour  of  its  troops  in  the 
name  of  the  same  lilierty  whi«h  at  Wnshiiiirton  I'k'ctritii-s 
the  jiopulation  of  the  Xorth,  and  puts  on  toot  an  army  of  a 
million  men  to  repulso  the  pretensions  of  the  South.  "jJoth, 
iKMU'trated  by  the  sanctity  of  their  cause,  cut  each  otlier's 
throats  in  emulation  of  one  another,  and  dn-  like  hi-roes! 
Moral:  nian  is  a  machine  more  lu'rvous  than  thouirlitinl, 
a  voltaic  jdle  clothed  with  Hesh,  which  jrives  sj)iirks  and 
shocks  when  we  know  how  to  heat  it.  It  does  not  l>cIoni^ 
to  me  to  touch  here  these  great  questions,  in  order  to  resohe 
them,  or  to  mix  myself  in  the  troubles  that  disturb  my 
iinhapjiy  country.  I  have  my  opinions,  but  they  matter 
little.  What  was  I  thinking  of,  to  "o  and  throw  myself 
among  the  briers  of  ].olitics  'i  When  I  give  my  \)v\\  license 
it  runs  at  random  and  does  a  thousand  foolisir  things,  like 
a  female  iiarrot  let  loose  in  a  guava  tree. 

One  train  leaves  at  rive  o'clock,  another  left  at  two 
o'clock.  I  doubt  if  the  one  which  is  promised  us  can  ac- 
commodate the  constantly  increasing  crowd  of  four  or  five 
thousand  pei-sons  which  presses  into  and  around  tlie  station. 
]-,itters  are  ]irovided  for  the  sick,  many  arc  occupied  by 
wounded  soldiers,  who  will  not  be  left  here.  Immense 
trains  of  merchandise  continue  to  ai/ive.  The  jianic  in- 
creases. It  is  no  longer  a  fiight,  it  is  a  flood,- -a  general 
s<iin-e  f/)ii  jx'ut.  It  would  seem,  seeing  the  jirccijiitation 
with  which  the  iidiabitants  abandon  their  city,  that  the 
rebels  were  already  iu  sight.  Trunks,  boxes,'bundles  of 
clothes,  furniture,  mattresses,  kitchen  utensils,  and  even 
pianos,  ave  piled  pell-mell  on  the  road. 

Carriages,  carts,  chariots,  indeed  all  the  vehicles  in  the 
city  have  been  put  in  requisition.  The  jioor  aie. moving  in 
wheelbarrows.  A  trader  has  attached  to  Ins'-ivftnni'bus, 
already  full,  a  long  file  of  spring  carts,  trucks,  busrtjies, 
whose  ownei-s  had  probably  no  horses,  and  drags  them  alono- 
to  the  great  displeasure  of  his  team,  whicli  sweat,  frf)tir, 
and  fall,  under  the  increased  weight  of  the  load.  A  long  con- 
voy comes  in  with  ten  locomotives  in  front.  It  brings  can- 
nons, caissons,  and  many  steam-engines  in  course  of  conhtruc- 
tion,  which  have  been  sent  to  Ilarrisbiirg  to  ])revent  their  fidl- 
ing  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  The  confusion  is  at  its 
height.    Cattle  bellowing, frightened  mules,  jirancing  hoi-ses, 


I 


NOTES  OF  A  FIASIST. 

you  sec  here  the  I'^f^^^^XsclNv^at  business  luul  y()a 
iVurore.'     Ah,  iiupn^^^'"*  btiakoscn, 
in  this  cur-.-(l  vWy'i      .^^^^.u.^^,  J  have  counted,  thirty 
The  static.i  is  ^V^^'^^J.^^"^.,,  V    ^c  tiiose  around  then., 
at  a  tina..     They  look  K\»  ^  ^^^^^^^^^^    ,trikin.,'  and  bel- 
I'ufting,  out  ot  ^^^{'^;^io  see  a  horrilde  troop  of 
lowinj;  at  eaeh  V^^^^^-[.''t  wbre  a  ee<^1ou'ic-al  flood.    . 
antedihn-ian  annuals  flj^^^^^^^^^^  it'c-nsists  of  eight 

The  traui  leaves  in  a  ic^^  momj^     '  .Uousand  pei- 


rhe  train  leaves  m  a^- .^T  l^Bt  t.  ihou-d  per^ 
uinc  cars,  in  \yhieh  arc  puui  "  ^  ^  r^.j  ^,.oi„on  arc 
,s.    Wcarclikclierringsinaba    cl   ^^^^^.         ^^ 


lorn.    Wcarclikclierinngs^naua    c.      .^^. 

sitting  on  each  ^^^f;J'l^^Zo\nAioivooxn^s\nch_i^ 

children  ^^,^^:]:^^y^  C^ nnr^^  the  heat  is  m- 

not  oceupied.     N\  e  are  i>uij^  .iii-oadv  made  to-day  a 

tolerable.    Remember  tl^t  I  !»•  ^f  '   ^f  ,4^,  from  here  to 

journey  of  .even  hours  ad  a  J^  »y»'^^  ander- 

i'hila.lelphia  th.'re  is  as     \"^/;^/X^^^  just  knl  mc  to 

stand  how  I  curse  }^yjf^^    eiovoranei  and  audacity 

give  my  seat,  which  h>  /^;  \;^^\ J'^^      ,,,,^  lady.    She  (the 

Shad  succeeded  m  capturing,  to  a  )om  g;      ^^^  ^^^^^    ^ 

young  lady)  did  not  ';y^'";.';^^/sX'  among  the  ladies 
vide.*H>reud  error  m    ^>^.  f "  {^'\,^^^  been  willing  to 

(not  olie  of  my  tcinalc  i"^"^^^;^J^  believing  themselves 
Unowlc^gc  it),  -l';;^^-;f^^,n;i^;^ons  Wards  the 
exempted  from  all     "">'  '^^^  ^    ^^^  ,,>gards  as  an  impre- 

lu-rson  "-^^"I'tlnMak  ralt.>g^^^  only  the  resiilt 

seriptible  right  ^^\vA,  taku  a  «  ^^  ^.^^y^^.,  to  whom  m 
of  voluntary  homage.  Ut  t^^";  \;\-^,^.  ^r  for  whom  I  have 
xny  travels  I  have  S^'^^^'^^.u^v,  or  ottered  my 
lowered  a  window  or  P^i^k^  ^^V  ;,,i,^ 

hand  to  get  down,  I  Im  »^  ^  .f  ^Xlly  abstahied  from 
sevcn-eigliths  «  .  t\-"  ^^J^^  ,^  K  I  reld  TroUope  on  the 
thanking  mc.  t  P  J*' ,y;.f,  "J"^  ^his  reserve  to  an  exception 
rnited  States,!  had  a   inhuted^^^^^^^^^  ^^^^  ^^,^.^,^^  j    ^ 

made  in  my  i'^^'^l^^'v  "^.'V^.^^S^   of  the  charming  smile 


wHUi  ni^-SMHMHM 


LAST  VESTIGE  OF  CHIVALRY. 


219 


the  liVmaing 
l)U>aiir'  (Do 
ill '  Ma  taiite 
iiness  had  you 

•ountcd.  thirty 
arouml  them, 
kiiii,'  and  bel- 
ri-ibic  troop  ot 
al  flood. 
iisists  of  eight 

thousand  per- 
'he  women  arc 
ding,   and   the 
room  ^vhich_l3 
the  heat  is  in- 
made  to-day  a 
it  from  here  to 
•on  may  under- 
jnst  led  me  to 
ce  and  audacity 
lady.    She  (the 
jejing  in  this  a 
uong  the  ladies 
heeu  willing  to 
i-ing  themselves 
m  "towards  the 
ds  as  an  impre- 

only  the  result 
idie.H  to  whom  in 
jY  whom  I  liavo 
,r,  or  ottered  my 
pocket-l)ook  that 

abstained  from 
;l  TroUope  on  the 

0  to  an  exception 

1  star  which  had 
e  charming  smile 
■r  sex  pays  to  trie 
of  which  I  ba^'tJ 

TroUope,  are  the 


same  prerogatives  that  all  my  brothers  of  the  ruder  sex 
enjoy. 

Gallantry',  the  ladies  should  not  forgot,  no  longer  grows 
on  oarth  as  in  the  days  of  chivalry;  it  is  the  last  vestige  of 
an  epoeli  when  many  things  were  believed  in  wliicli  are 
since  (lead  ;  it  is  to-day  a  delicate  flower,  a  hot-house  plant 
wliich  would  die  if  it  was  refused  the  fecundating  ravs  of 
their  smiles.  Ihit  it  is  two  o'clock  in  the  morning.'  AVV  are 
at  riiiladelphia.  Fifteen  liours  and  a  half  of  railroad  in 
one  day,  without  con.  Mng  our  emotions! 

The  devil  take  the  poets  who  dare  to  sing  the  pleasures 
of  au  artist's  life. 

.Tuno  17,  180... 

Left  rhiladelphia  at  C  P.  :M.  for  Xew  Brunswick.  ^Yc 
are  stopped  on  the  road  for  three  hours ;  it  is  eleven  and 
a-half  o'clock.  We  are  stationaiy.  The  road  having  only 
one  line,  we  arc  obliged  to  wait  on  a  turn-out  for  a  convoy 
of  soldiers  who  left  New  York  at  six  o'clock  and  are  to 
])ass  us  at  this  station.  It  is  probable  that  an  accident  lias 
happened  to  it.  In  the  mean  time  it  looks  as  if  we  arc 
to  jiass  the  night  here.  Our  locomotive  has  left  us  on  a 
voyage  of  discovery. 

July  13. 

Concert  at  Xcw  London  to-day.  The  drawing  for  re- 
cruits has  begun.  That  which  was  feared  is  now  being 
realized:  the  lower  class  —  the  Irish  —  resist.  The  tele- 
grajih  has  just  announced  to  us  that  they  have  set  Are  to 
the  buildings  where  tlie  drawings  take  place.  They  are 
armed.  The  authorities  have  ordered  out  the  re<rular 
troops  now  encamped  at '  Morris's  Island'  to  march  to^'ew 
York  immediately.  Blood  Avill  flow.  The  insurgents 
having  taken  up  the  rails  on  the  railroad  feu*  several  miles, 
the  conmiunicatious  are  interrupted. 

July  14. 

The  railroad  bridge  at  Harlem  has  been  burned  by  the 
rioters.  The  news  travels  a  long  way  round  to  reacli  us. 
The 'Trilmne' office  has  been  burned  to  the  foundations ; 
the  artillery  is  in  the  streets. 


220 


^'OTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


July  1-i. 


I  f,Mina  on  mv  puino  (as  it  al^vay^;  is  at  every  cH>,u--rt)  a 
.Inr  basket  of  tt..mMV.     Al.nost  all  my  l-uro.  uove 

;   re    "  After   the   last   i-l-re,  an   oM   gentleman  eaiue 
f  an<l  nuule  a  si.eeeh,  thank  ng  me,  m  the  nanu-  ot 

t  .  ulience  for  the  pk-asure  whidi  1  had  given  tlu'in. 
ItXml  m^  a  serenalle  by  the  military  band  of  the  h.rt, 
-vvhieh  he  eommaiids. 

FiTCHBunoii,  July  15. 

Charming  country,  surmunded  by  ^^^^^  ^^ 
housiN  are  built  on  steep  dec-livities.  Ihe  hotel  is  caiiai 
Jru-hl  U  ll<.use.'  At  the  hour  for  eomna-nemg  the 
einiK  he  heavens,  which  had  been  cloudy  all  day,  oi.(Mied 
an  m  od  down  cataracts  of  rain;  the  streets  wore  a  to  t 
deei.  in  mud.  Xotwithstanding  tins  wo  had  a  respectable 
audience,  and  I  was  enthusiastically  encored. 

Nashua,  July  16. 

rretty  little  town,  like  all  those  of  XcwEnglancl,  hidden 
ri  ;  nt  in  the  midst  of  the  verdure  of  its  gamens  and 
ot  its  a  1  Vr  e  ^  S  news  of  the  taking  otVl'.n-t  Hudson 
t:^:d;:d^t  V,ur  o'ek>cl  with  ^^^^^^^^yf^Tl 
atviKiona  Ikdls  riuij;,  explosions  are  heard,  etc.  cie.  .v 
cei'JirMr.  F.  lent  m^  solue  verses  in  whieh  he  compares 

""  Metlrihe  street  three  little  boarding-school  girls  in  a 
buggy,  who  sent  me  kisses. 

Manchestek,  July  17. 
Manufacturing  town, 'n  which 'there  is  nothing  remark- 
able    Only  sixtlni  tickets  sold,  which  forces  me  to  give 
UP    ho  coneert,  more  particularly  as  Madame  htrakoseh 
has     1st  telegraphed  me  that  she  dare  not  leave  her  chil- 

?en    t  XewVork  while  the  riots  contuuie.     To-morrow  I 
i^Bti^^ve  a  concert  at  Tortsmouth,  but^the  tclcgrai-h  has 

uS  tilismitted  the  news  of  a  not     Decidedly  I  shall 
return  by  way  of  Boston  to  Jsew  \ork. 


MY  COyCEliT  TROUPE. 


001 

mmJL 


July  14. 


•orv  foii*''. 


rt)  a 
IV  iiixci'ri  wove 
iltU'iium  tame 
11  the  niuiu"  of 
I  given  tlu'in. 
ii(t  of  the  fort, 


inunon,  July  15. 

■.intiiiiis.  The 
hotel  if  called 
nuneneing  the 
all  ilay,  oiteued 
■ets  were  a  foot 
id  a  respeetablo 


Nashua,  July  16. 

Miglaiid,  hidden 
itri  gardens  and 
)f  i'ort  Hudson 
)f  joyful  dcmon- 
rd,  etc.  cte.  A 
eh  he  coniitares 

chool  girla  in  a 


rcHESTER,  July  17. 
lothing  reniark- 
rces  me  to  give 
dame  Strakoseh 
•t  leave  her  ehil- 
2.  To-morrow  I 
he  telegraph  has 
eeidedly  I  shall 


CIIArTER  XI. 

Proptnlipr,  ISGH. 

"SVe  are  in  town.  Afy  company  consists  of  Matlenioiselle 
Cordier,  prima  donna;  Brignoli,  tenor;  Carlo  J*atti,  vio- 
linist; JJehrens,  accompanist;  and  myself.  Also  Max 
Strakosch,  agent  and  iminrssario ;  Ashforth,  tuner,  to 
whom  is  entrusted  the  duty  of  overlooking  the  packing 
and  unpacking  of  mv  pianos.  Afarii',  lady's  maid  to  Made- 
moiselle Cordier ;  l'!mile,  J5rignoli"s  valet ;  and  Firmin,  my 
eontidential  servant,  valet,  major-domo,  secretary,  and  facto- 
tum, who  has  been  for  many  years  my  '  Alter  ego,'  and 
who  tyrannizes  over  me  with  that  good-natured  familiarity 
which  all  servants  tlank  they  have  a  right  to  exereise  over 
those  whom  they  have  for  many  years  willingly  taken 
eare  of  for  their  master. 

Such  is  the  list  of  names  of  our 'Concert  Troupe.'  I 
now  come  to  the  memhei-s  of  it.  Mademoiselle  Cordier 
is  not  pretty,  but  she  is  French,  that  is  to  say,  has  all  the 
piquant  graces  which  ai»pcar  to  belong  to  her  country- 
women. She  has  a  flexible  voice,  whieh  she  uses  with 
much  art.  She  was  educated  at  the  Conservatoire  de  Pai-is, 
where  she  took  the  fii"st  pi'ize.  An  excellent  nmsiciau 
{mra  avis),  she  can  read  what  she  sings,  and  docs  nf>t  pos- 
sess the  gift  accorded  to  almost  all  Italian  singers,  of  not 
learning  until  after  having  been  taught,  like  a  canary  bird 
on  the  l)ird  organ,  for  many  yeare.  Her  maid  is  a  young, 
thin,  sentimental  German,  who  paints  flowers,  is  always 
asleej),  is  very  ugly,  and  professes  an  absolute  aversion  for 
the  duties  of  the  toilet. 

Brignoli  is,  as  you  already  know,  one  of  the  most  seduc- 
tive tenoi's  that  can  be  imagined.  His  voice,  which  reminds 
me  of  Mario's,  lias  a  .narvellous  purity.  His  servant  Emilo 
is  an  old  sailo"  who  reads  Kenan's  '  Life  of  Jesus,'  and  is 
enraptured  with  the  beauties  of  hia  style.     Behrena  is  a 

19* 


o.oo  NOTES  OF  A  PIASIST. 

y„„ncr  Ooman  from  ^Tan.l.urff,^vho  wears  ^F^Ja^'l^;' j^; '^_ 

Ivi'Wxn^r  !in<l  after  (Inner, liow  he  iiiaydisoit  a  \u>i»i  to 

m      a  \     .  o    it.     His  seecnul,  is  l,eing  a  iervent,  chseq.  e 

r^r  lllJ-8avarin.     IU.hrens,  in  ove,y  ?;^^:  l'''^;  ^;:^ 

nu'-im  to  have  delica.  i'  s  prepared  lor  himself.     W  e  lunt 

Xh   n  st,perintenae,»t  of  provisions,  and  l'-;>^;^''-  ^^f 

tl      Wttin.'-  up  of  our  meals  when  we  arrive  at,  a  ho  el. 

A  li>vtl    7i  tall    i.hlocrmatic   Ameriean,  locks   alter  the 

^:;l;l;::with  tl;! ir  we  that  an  EngUsli  eouehman  looks 

!.ff,.r  l.is  horses.     lie  is  the  best  tuner  i  know. 

S  mko  Zm^^  agent,  impressario,  aiid  friend,  a  fine  fe- 
lon   is  active  as  he  alone  can  be.     Devivo  seeond  agent,  is 
VoloHan  Ins  an  excellent  heart,  and  loves  me  very 
n.m-h  tK;X  W,  a  young  Englishmai,  third  .igeijt 
V    1     I  very  large  nose'  a  good  fellow,  a  worker,  poor  but 
IrlloJ  nn(l  on  tlic  road  to  become  a  first-class  agent. 
^Tc\re  a  Wos  ing  to  hotel  proprietors,  whose  purses  wc 
fill  \ndibi  whom  we  are  also  an'  excellent  advertisc.n.ent, 
S  irne^papei^  never  fail  to  mention  the  hotel  where  we 
put  up. 

December  28. 
A  TEMPEST  OF  SN'OW. 


After 


Rod. 


tcr  having  given  two  concerts  at  Chicago  I  left  for 
Kn..^ford  (file' hours  of  railroad  from  Chicago)  where  I 
in    to  Ave   I  concert  by  myself  this  evening.     I  ha«   sent 
S  rcst^ofny  company  to^Radne  (four  hours  of  railway 
f  nm  Chk^aS  to  giv/also  a  concert  without  me;  my 
naTe  b      g^sufen'^ly  powerful  at  Roekford  to  cniable  me 
?o  get  a^i  .4dience  witliout  the  aid  of  my  companKm.  T  taU 
advantage  of  it.    On  their  part  they  cannot  tail  to  d  a^ 
?  0  crowd,  and  thanks  to  this  strategic  mananivie  I ^hall 
obtain  a  double  financial  result  without  hicreasing  my  ex- 
pe^e   or  osing  time.     To-morrow  I  must  \eave  Roc-kto  d 
ami  thev  Racine,  in  order  for  us  tojom  eacji  other  at  Mil- 
Sauk;?(Wisconsin),  where  a  concert  is  to  T^  ?--  -  ^- 
evening  by  our  whole  company.    The  cold  i.  exccsbnc. 


1 


AMKlilCAS  WOMEN. 


223 


^pcotac'los,  irt  a 
iiirt  two  woak- 

0  toll  you, is  to 
nott'-book  ami 
iajfo,  uiorniiijr, 
ort  a  won!  to 
LTVciit  disfiiilo 
V.  i>la('c,  finds 
[•If.     We  have 

1  lie  overlooks 
ve  at  a  hotel. 
)oka  after  the 
oaehmau  looks 

)\V. 

lend,  a  fine  fel- 
seeond  agent,  is 
loves  nie  vi-ry 
an,  third  agent, 
orker,  ytoor  hut 
ass  agent, 
vhose  j)urses  we 
t  advertisi'nii'iit, 
!  hotel  where  we 

December  28. 

lioago,  I  left  for 
liioago),  where  I 
line."    I  had  sent 
lioui-8  of  railway 
•ithotit  mc;  my 
brd  to  etiahle  mc 
»mpanions,T  take 
not  fail  to  draw 
iiananiviel  shall 
Ticreasing  my  ex- 
t  leave  Roekford, 
aeh  other  at  Mil- 
0  he  eiven  in  the 
L'old  "is  excessive. 


At  Roekford  tlio  snow,  which  has   Itcon  falling  nninter- 
ruptedly  for  two  days,  is  one  foot  and  a  half  deep  in  the 
streets.     The  sky  at  this  moment  is  cloar  and  the  air  pure. 
Tlie  thermometer  which,  until  now,  was  ahotit  ciirhtirn  <U^ 
grecs  below  /.ero,  begins  to  go  down.     Jiockford  (Illinois)  is 
a  very  pretty  town  of  one  thonsaiid  souls,  tlonrisldng  as  do 
all  the  Western  towns.     It  possesses  three  scminari»'s  for 
young  ladies,  which  1  th'.nk  otjght  to  furnisli  this  cvenini; 
for  the   concert   a  contingent   of  five   hundred    jiersons. 
"^'olmg  ladies'  seminaries  in  all  the  small  interior  towns  of 
the  West  are  the  soul  of  a  certain  class         'oncerts.     The 
desire  for  cultivating  the  nund  and  jie        ,iig  the  taste  is 
an  imi)erativc  necessity  among  Anieri.  ,,ii  women  which  I 
liave  never  found  in  so  high  a  (leicree  in  any  other  race. 
The   liberty  which  they  enjoy  in  t^ie  United  States,  anil 
which  would  frighten  European  mothers,  far  from  injuring 
the  development  of  those  ex([uisite  cpialities  which  cliarac- 
teri/e  their  sex,  adds,  on  the  contrary,  to  the  allurements  of 
beauty,  and  vests  a  finul  of  confidence  in  their  own  strength 
and  a  maturity  of  intelligence  which  guard  them  morein- 
fallibly  than  the  anxious   and  suspicious  solicitude  with 
which  a  European  education  surrounds  them.     Hero  tluy 
are  the  sole  guardians  of  their  iimocence  and  safety;  and 
while  lam  far  from  thinking  that  they  do  not  slip  at  times 
from  the  abuse  of  it  (perfection  is  not  of  this  world),  I 
do  not  hesitate  to  give  the  i»reference  to  our  system.     Our 
young  ladies  are  responsible  to  their  et)nscienee  and  enter 
into  marriage  fortified  by  a  practical  sense  which,  in  taking 
from  them  a  little  of  that  unhealthy  and  sickly  sentimen- 
tality of  young  European  girls,  prepares,  them   for  the 
realities  of  life.     The  young  European  girl — ignorant  of 
everything,  and  not  made  accountable  by'^the  long  childish 
tutela<j;e  which  has  been  imiwscd  upon  her — slips,  stum- 
bles, tails,  without  knowing  it;  if  she  escapes  the  perilous 
passages,  she  otters  to  Iter  husband  a  frivolous  compan- 
ion, a  'Bora,'  that  is  to  say,  a  pretty  plaything,  but  cer- 
taiidy  incapable  of  assisting  and   sustaining  liim   in  his 
troubles. 

The  snow  has  ceased  falling.  I  sink  into  it  k pee-deep. 
The  pianist  of  the  town,  a  professor,  has  just  ottered  nie 
his  services,  and  proposes  a  sleigh-ride.     I  confess  that  the 


224 


SOTES  OF  A  riASIST. 


^'  r.  '^  in  U.olf  IB  very  plon>»nnt,  nml  T  HhouMbo  very 
Blt'iph-ndo  in  poit  ib  ^^2,  .  ...-^  i,i  i„,  used  m  pmiii- 
fon.l  of  tins  km.  v*  •';;;',,  .,',,,,  vn,ri':v  sU-igh- 
i.KT, but  Nv inter  I'iinu'  '^ ''""""",/'    M,  u  lor   the  .•rm«l 

r;r::l'a;!aH;;ti!Cerineju.t..ugiii.atto 

cnal.U.  me  t..  ieel  my  ^"«^;;,";;-;';,  ....     The  ^now  romin.lB 
'^'^'i^  rS/'T:i:i::^;i^  V  t  !he;h>ir    ,artiele.  c>t;.now 

-i;;:l;!;-!^nt:Vh:uAn--i.itiiot;e^ 

Nature  herneltMio  m   he  V  ^  '';.:;,;;,;     .i,,,!  l.nn.ehe., 
trees  uttWt  me  to^va^l^c•ven.  l,an  t       u i   na  ^^^^^^ 

cuttii.tc  the  distant  li<.n/.on,  ^i^^r,    J''  "^^^  ,  i   ,,lsV  ^Vhero 
are  ^ho  tlowers?  J^  hue  is  tho  ^^^^^  ^.^^  inspiratum. 

gives  me  i>ain,  but  it  ^%\ '"-,,,!.„  t^^  foundati..n,  as  the 
Vhen  at  night  the  ^'"'^^.[^""TTof  'un^^^  birds  whi.h 
l,ail  strikes  the  --><^"r^«  ^J^^^^^all;;!.  f^omc  iind 
want  to  get  m-then  is  tho  \^^"[/';^"  J  ^^  ^.^.^,„  ^f  an  in- 
then  fantastic  l'«ll"*'M"f  ^''^^  J  \^,„  d',  .  of  the  soul  of 
detinite  and  seeivt  grief,   on      "  Z;**^  f  JJ;  .'^     •,„  the  midst 

all  men.    '^^VO^^y^^^^^^^'^l^^^A  reading 
of  grief,  under  »';.;"' J["^^^^^^^^^        ,,ood wine,  their  radiant 

good  professor  wonld  be  ««P'»  ^f  ;  f '^^ViT^^^^^^^^ 
fli.  vihiele  is  worthy  ot  "Otiee      t  ^^;y4^'^!i';^.,\,t- which 
.(luare  box  plaeed  on  a  buggy  ^  ^  >^^^^^^^^^^  ^^^s  primiHve, 
two  iron  runners  liavc  been  ^"»^*^^^^^^^^^^^^  oi.rselves  as 

orioinal,  but  -"'^i^f^^^^^t  mrehi  e  aS^-^  out.    The  wind 
well  as  we  can  m  ^^'f /^^tle  maUiine^  ^^^^^^  .^  ^^^^^^^ 

increases  and  ^^'^  ^»  ;^1  ^^^'f^/  >  ./'^^^  horse,  animated  by 

^^^■^•'•"'"rtlltells  lio/raUi  r'thaii  runs.     We  devour 
the  noise  ot  tlie  bells  nies  la  ^  luirricane, 

space,  we  have  passed  thiough  the  ^^^  ^        ^^^^^^^  At 

and  enter  upon  a  S^^^^^^i^ify^^J,'  S^      eo.ltents  flies 
every  turn  of  the  road  our  1   tie  ^^^J^^^^      ^.^eie  in  the 


liodM  b*^  very 
J  iisi'd  in  pum- 
ii.,/('l""i'  sU'ijrli- 
lor  the  i-rnrl 
•liich  r\it.*  my 
■iioiigh  lii-'iit  to 

.  snow  roiuiiuls 
irticlort  of  wiunv 

Ihu'rt  not  ovt'U 
?  Tlio  lc!iiU'><>^ 
iiikod  l)raii<-ln.'rt, 

Hki'U'toii!*,  that 

0  winter,  I'or  it 
for  inspiration, 
nntlation,  as  tlio 
ri'al  birds whiih 
tion.    Sonic  iiml 
lo  echo  of  an  in- 
lis  of  tho  son!  of 
L-ry,  in  the  midst 
irritated  readini; 
ine,  their  radiant 
[esB  luuslc  iri  eou- 

rh-ride.    But  the 
^saeritice  myself. 
;inal,  it  is  a  small 
0  wheels  of  which 
It  is  primi'^ivo, 
odatc  ourselves  as 
,etout.    The  Av  hid 
iiur's  nose  ia  blue, 
arse,  animated  by 
luw.     Wo  devour 

like  a  luirricanc, 
icndous  pace.  At 
h  its  eontenta  flies 

of  a  cirele  in  the 
!k  in  as  well  as  we 


T/fi:  r,77,-.i/.iA'  rnnFi:s.<iOR.  005 

fan.  An  r.ld  l)li,i.|  ,„ule  has  Hf..|.|K.d  ]„  )!„.  middle  of  the 
road.  Uiir  ^|Kvd  is  ho  mpid  that  w..  ,,mM..t  turn  in  time, 
nn(l  we  strike  a^o.nist  llu'  pcor  Least,  wl,,,  sends  a  hair  of 
heels  ,,t  us  without  strikin,!;  ns.  Half  of  ,„„•  hox  ,'.,nnins 
behnid,  hut  there  is  still  enou.rli  to  hold  on  (o.  The  horse 
no  lonp.r  oheys  the  reins.  I  he.rln  to  understand  tiuit  our 
party.,  pleasure  will  end  hy  hein-  thrown  into  u  dit.h. 
I  he  end  ot  our  ride  is  a  seminary  lor  younu  n'wK  of  which 
1  iHMrm  to  see  the  roof  and  trees  at  the  end  of  the  n.ad 

We  arrive  at  the  seminary.  An  old  and  dried-up  lady 
receives  ns  I  am  introduced  to  her;  she  is  the  dire.-tress 
ol  the  estahlis  iment.  .Mi.s«  S.  and  So,  Mr.  ({otts,halk. 
\\  e  pass  into  the  parlour.  A  pMitleman  with  dishevelled 
hair  is  walkm^ir  up  and  (h>wn, declaiming  'a  lectuiv,'  whi.-h 
he  has  to  Kive  this  afternoon  to  theyounu- i-lrk  rncoml.ed 
Jiead  (I  speak  ot  his  exterior), '-ard  unshaved;  type,  nenus 
unknown-  tjold  spectacles.  He  is  u  (Jerman  professor  of 
literature  ot  l<reiuh,  and  l.hilosophy— was  it  necessarv  to 
tell  you  that  Jie  wore  fr,,l,i  spectacles  v  I),,  ,n,t  all  tlie  (ier- 
iiiaiis,  musicians  and  savants,  wear  lliem? 

It  is  a  ].oint  of  transcendental  i)hvsio]oiry  which  I  leave 
to  the  investiirations  of  the  learned,  to  wit:  whether  the 
(lermans  who  are  to  heconu-  musieians  are  horn  with  little 
golden  specta.-les,just  as  othei-s  are  born  witlui  wart  on 
tlie  nose,  or  whether  this  j.arasite  is  developed  and  ..rowH 
111  proportion  as  they  i»hm<;e  into  the  depths  of  the  science 
ot  h.irmony.  (>  apiin,  whether  this  aj.pendas^e  is  an  hon- 
ourable badge  and  symhol  which  is  awarde<l  to  those  who 
have  penetrated  all  the  secrets  lilddeii  from  vulvar  eves 
Jiiial ly,are  the  ooldeii  spectacles  of  the  musical  (Jeriiians 
like  the  cane  of  the  Spanish  Alcalde  or  the  switch  of  the 
JMighsh  soldier  111  Avalking,  that  without  which  neither  the 
one  nor  the  other  of  these  immutable  and  hi  variable  tynes 
eonsKler  themselves  oom].lete? 

I  visit  the  seminary.  The  pupils  are  engaged  at  their 
studies;  hut  111  the  j.assages,on  the  staircase,  in  the  (h)nni- 
tory  we  iiieet  young  girls  wlio,  under  their  little  air  of 
tright  or  indifterence,  badly  conceal  heir  unruly  curiosity. 
Jt  IS  ].]am  that  they  know  who  I  am,  and  I  foresee  that  I 
shall  haveto  play  for  these  very  pretty  rude  little  things 
before  leaving.     A  piano  groans  in  an  adjoining  room!  it 


f^ 


SOTKS  OF  '.  riASI^T. 

xrM     •     ITuvcr'      Uow  far  wUl   this   v\r,:nml 
\«  tl...  'M'^'•^^''•^,'''{v•^.t   .train  int..  our  h.,uu.v  H  U 
,..,:,  ana  uttor  anotlu-.    a  '    '^^^^,,  ^^.,,^,,,^.  ,,,,  .vaitcrs 

„,n.n,  ((i...l  ho  V7»r^'\  '       '  ,    ,  .  that  th-  norvant.  a.v  <  t 

^Vo  arc  a<rain  r'>'T"'"?,,^^\i|XnSrs  m!y  ril'm' h^tve 
.now,  an,l  ^-'IV'^riay  We  oh^nu-toa  tl^  nnul.        or. 
ariftoa,  ana  ^^■^\\  ^^^>^r^,,  „„t.     IhirvaM  ..  th 
we  arc  stoi>l»oa. 


t-    ho  vUuo  whore  t^'?^r""\\\\^     .,     ,,1  ahltant..    It  wouhl 
o  aaivrcr..ur^  t(^  ^.roceoa  ^'^^V'\.,  \,\,ventv-tive(logrooH  he- 

l,)\v  zero. 


,otor  has  pme  .h.w      >  - -^^  y,    ^^,,  ,,,..^,est 
^Vo  might  »'^^\-'  >^;!  ,  ^^  ve     u>u1a  have  heeu 


tA  iiml  loadings  lor  ^^:^^'oyov  in  the  afternoon,  at 
The  te,»l--t  ^vi  I  ajna  tl-^  V  ^,  ,  ,^.  a  tavern  ih  al.M^ 
loMst  the  conauctor  leadrt  us  u>      i  ,,  ,,i,o,,netor.      iho 

'>'?  li'tn'  VS,  W„:l  of  .,on.,  a,Kl,  above  all,  .hat 
Ui  loV  .li"-;,  v-m  t^>,,,^;,X;S  „,,l,  a  -ton.  n,a„  ,d,o» 

irn  fiWml»  cull  ■'"''S'^-"''  'J  '  ith  very  comfortal.ly  fm-- 
„-*onaaot9  mo  to  "'V  ™  ,'"„" ^ "*  ™«'''=''  '"•'.'' 
S»l  and  ^™Sr''•„A    aHllm      with  oarto.  <le  v.s.lo 

k^iSi' auSXgX^^  a..a  r.„a,  u.i.o,»,i« 


Till:  IIMiVMU)  IWTKL. 


227 


this   viririim^ 


\X    KHUlU'*' 


iiltlu 


If,  1  tintliiiVM'U 

HtTviint^  an-  <>t 
tlir  iiior^t  I'lirt, 
uiirsr^i'H  in  dirt- 
,m'ntU'«l  diu'nity 
■o  of  roii^t  l»i'i't» 
uul  lUl  lao  with 

peci'iulit'f  31. 
It   fOlltilUU'rt   to 

Hiiy  it  will  liiivo 
tlio  road.    ll*'>'^' 
vuM  irt  the  iiaiiic 
ive  nuirtt  tret  out. 
itantrt.     Itwouhl 
Htorin  eontimu's. 
:y-tive  degrees  he- 
.,1  by  the  tempeHt 
aiouUl  have  becji 
whole  train  in  the 
■il  a  great  danger 
irtt  now  endeavour 
wc  remain  here. 
1  the  afternoon,  at 
A  tavern  is  along- 
•,  proprietor.'    The 
llotel  hart  nothuig 
lul,  above  all,  what 

ptont  man,  whom 
had  Hueh  luck  be- 
,ry  comfortably  fur- 
able  covered  with 
,th  cartes  de  yisite 
8  in  the  prairies  ot 
sfromXew  lork.. 
French  lithographs 


(Moses  defending  I  know  not  wliat  woman,  after  a  pieturo 
l>y  S(  li(t|iiii),  the  inonninents  of  I'mis,  ami  a  Inrire  vohune 
of  maps  oil  iheCiinieaii  Wnr,  wrilleii  hy  tlie  coiiiiiiissiniieirt 
sent    out   ill    1S,"),"»  l»y  his    Kxeelleliey    -lefferMUi    I  >avis,  tht'tl 
Secretary  of  War  of  tin-  I'liiti'd  States,  wliit  li  eoimnissioii 
Was  eon  I  posed  of  Colonel  Delatield  and  ('aiilaiii    MeClelluii 
of  the  Kiigiiieers.     These  iianii's  thus  assoeiatid  liave  a  siii- 
trnlar  effe<t  I     What  a  contrast,  iind  what  evi'iits  sinet' the 
illustrious  traitor  oeeiihied   himself  with  s(»  niiieh  solirj. 
tilde  to  perieet   the  miiit'iry  seieiiee  of  the  Fi'deral  Army 
ollieers,  and  chose  for  this  purpose  little  Captain  MeClellan. 
I    should    have   remained  a  long  tinu;  meditating  on  the 
iiistahility  of  human  afliiirs  and  on  the  mysteries  whirh 
the  future  coiui-als,  if  the  gi  ng  for  dinner  had  not  Just 
called  me  t<t  the  reality  of  things  which  is  nnieh  more 
pleasant   than    revery,  seeing  that   I  am  very  hungry  and 
that  the  dinner  whati'ver  it  may  he  will  he  very  welcome. 
I  do  not  HUpposo  that  tiie  Harvard  Jlotel  dinner  will  be  a 
IJelshazzar's  feast.     7\g  in  a  rash  Judgment  and  an  agrei'- 
alile  surprisi'.     After  hit \iiig  disagri'e.thly  speculated  iipoii 
w-|iat  might  l)e  tlie  ordinary  of  tliis  poor  little  tavern  at  a 
village  of  the  extreme  West,  and  found  a  resi>;m'd  consola- 
tion in  niy  liunger,  I  went  down  into  the  dining-room  and 
found  it  very  clean.   Tiie  thick  linen  tahle-cloths  are  white, 
the   dishes   and  jilates   large,  but  senqtulously  clean,  the 
servants  pretty,  courteous,  and  not  at  all  princesses.     The 
hill  of  fare  for  dinner  would  make  the  months  water  of  the 
];seudo-hiinter8  of  the  jilain  of  St.  Denis,  who   are   ecu- 
denine<l  not  to  taste  venison  but  under  the  e(|uivocal  and 
apocryphal  form  of  steaks  called  roe-buck,  wliich  the  in- 
dustry of  tlie   Parisian  restaurateur  has  enabled  him   to 
make  out  of  lamb  kept  preserved  in  vinegar  until  it  gets 
the  taste  of  venison.     Here  they  served  up  to  ns  a  quarter 
of  true  roe-buck  marvellously  roasted  with  its  Juice;  some 
broiled  venison,  wild  ducks,  and  jirairie-chickens;   a  large 
])uddlng  and  a  glass  of  excellent  ale  ended  this  festival  of 
Helshazzar.  _  Deeidedlv  I  sulunit  to  my  iiite.     I  get  again 
into  the  train.     One  liour,  two  hours  glide  by,  and  we  do 
not  start.     There  are  two  stoves  in  the  car,  yet  nevertheless 
the  cold  iiicreasi's  nntil  Strakosch's  eai-s  are  nearly  frozen. 
The  wind  inereasi'S,  the  snow  falls  in  avalanches,  we  must 


",'mivu  f  .'bswbw^p'^  ''" 


„.^g  NOTKS  OF  A  riASI^T. 

,  .  ,  ,  ,  iT.,rvira  Unfortunately,  conntinjl  <m 
m.s  the  night  ^^^  [  \^  X;  din.c.-^  .onscquontly  have 
leaving,  I  vaj'l  "^>  .^f,  ,,\,o,  e  room  whuh  1  have  oeeu- 
reuouneed  a    /"V  "?ht.  u  k  u    jc  .^^.^^^^.^    ,^         1  l.e 

pio«l  i.art  ol  the  ihiy— it  » -i''  ,,i  tl,ei,i^sen"-errtot  tlietrani, 
iotcAehig  i-"«^-^-\  "  ^'  1^  \v^,  a^S  children  Not 
a  place  ^vas  first  Vil^^'^^^f  J'  :.?eVof  ^  categories,  T  hiive 

heing  able  to  g<^^"^  ^"!^^^!,^'  '''\he  ight  on  the  tlo.n-,  at 
the  sad  rorsi.c<-tn'e  "^  V^^^^^S^.^^^^e "l.clow  zero.  There 
a  tenn-crature  ot  twenty -bx  '^^^^^^^  ^  .^._  'y^,^  society  is 
are  fifty  or  sixty  ot  ns  in  ^>«J:f^,^^j;p  jt  is  comiK.sed  of 
not,  asVou  ^vill  '"f'"  "IJll^^^^.^  nc  ;s  from  thJ  Indian 
.iek  and  disbanded  ^^^'J^''^^'^"' Ti  ^f  ,a  raagcd  emigrants. 
iVontiers,  peddlers,  ot  l;^^-^^^;,:^'Sso  n^  .vateh-chain. 
1  fastened  my  money  m  m>  ^?^^^'^'\{^^^,  dress  appeare<l  to 

Two  or  three  1'"'^ ''*;;  i  ;,  ^^  r'u-hed  me  and  acpuunt. 
belong  to  the  ^vell-to-do^^^^^^^^^^^^  ^^.;,  ,   lony 

nnoeswere  instinctive!}  main-.  ^'.  ,.,.i  elans,  whu-h, 
^^^l^ided  into  distinct  g^^^^^*  ^^  u  ^  ^vertheless 
Without  being  hostile  to  ea^i  ol^e^  bc^  ^^^^^^   ^^ 

that  if  oeeasion  require  thc>  Y",  of  their  neighbours.  I 
t  emselves  against  the  ^?P^^^  ]^^  fhe  tempest 
l,e.in  to  think  of  ^^^^"^^^d  a  .torm  at  sea 
roars  outside.  If  you  {^  "  ^^-^  upturning  of  nature, 
you  cannot  form  ^^^  , V^;';,;;/  'vel  ers  .vho  shall  have 
\U  thoughts  turn  to  the    -or  tia        ^^  .^,  ^^ 

been  surprised  on  the  pi'"!'^.;  -f    foundations.     Ihc 

ISi  thire.    The  l-^-Z^i^^^^^u  tioTanything  more 
Avind  whistles  ^»"^^"tabl> .     J^o  ^ing   chromatic 

niournful  than  those  as^cnnrng  ami   ^^^^^  ^^^.^^^  . 

scales  which  you  l^^'.r  ^Micn  ^' j  ^c  I  am -n  board. 

the  cordage  ot  ^  ^'^? '';1-     "  ^d  vvith  their  hands  frozen; 
Two  firemen  have  .p  st  *^"tcreci  wi  circulation. 

Avith  great  trouble  wc  succeed  ^^  rest"^^^^^^^^^  ^  ^^^^,^  ^^ 

It  is  the  first  time  ;-nat  I  see  ^^  "J^^^^*  ^^^,  ^^orth  Pole, 
often  read  of  in  the  history  .«V.^>Xin  ^^•hcre  our  trunks 
Uiave  had.to  give  "P;^^^^;^ ^  ^ac  s  oft^  Going  back  at 
are.  which  is  only  ^^^^j^^Jr^^^^^^^^^  buow  which  striKCS 

Pr  o,"'r  l^S  J-L  .m   .Ciovo  each  o.l.o. 


■^ 


rUE  POSTMASTER. 


,  conntir.g   on 
(LHinontly  liave 
h  1  liave  (K'ou- 
ly  ttikon.    Tlio 
ers  of  tlio  train, 
cliildron.    Not 
togoric's,  T  h'.ive 
ni  tlic  tloor,  iit 
,v  zero.     Thorc 
Tho  sock'ty  irt 
,  18  couiliosod  of 
•oni  the  Indian 
.o;od  omigrants. 
ify  Avatrh-fliain. 

■OSS  ai'l»c«i'^'*\  t<' 
ae  and  at-qnaint- 

icnt  thif^  *  l«^'»y 
tie  flans,  whifb, 
ki  11  novertlieless 
r  Low  to  defend 
r  neiglilijowi''*-     I 
it.     Tlio  tempest 
[  a  storm  at  sea 
rning  of  nature. 
i  who  shall  have 
■ill  find  a  eertain 
bundatlons.     The 
,w  anything  more 
niding   ehromatie 
whistles  through 
nc  I  am  .-n  l»oard. 
loir  hands  frozen; 
[12  the  circulation. 
■If  what  I  have  so 

0  the  Korth  To  o. 

1  whf've  our  trunks 
ft".  Going  hack  at 
,now  which  strikes 
turn  m  about  tive 
,hout  to  establish 
relieve   each  other 


every  half  hour,  to  kcc]i  up  the  fire,  under  ]ienalty  of  pee- 
ing the  water  freeze  in  the  hoilcr,  and  then  a<lieu  t()  leaving 
to-iMorrow.  Tlie  country,  wliidi  I  see  in  the  twiliiiht 
through  the  windows  obscured  by  the  ice,  is  friirlitfullv 
sad.  An  illimitable  meadow,  which  in  sunnuer  is  doubtli-ss 
an  ocean  of  verdure,  but  which  now  ]trescnts  to  tlu!  eve 
only  a  flescrt  of  snow  which  is  lost  in  the  distant  horiz<Mi. 
The  hardened  snow,  masses  of  which  fall  Avith  a  dull  rum- 
bling noise  IVom  the  roof  of  the  house,  and  the  roariui;-  of 
the  tempest,  drive  one  to  desjiair  with  sadness.  1  write 
my  journal  to  comI)at  sad  thoughts  which  besii-gc  me. 

I'oor  Strakosch,  after  two  hours  of  suiierliuiuau  effort, 
has  come  back  from  the  lelegraph  station,  from  whence  he 
sent  a  despatch  to  Milwaukee,  explaining  oin- position;  I 
doubt  if  it  arrives  at  its  destination.  JJefori!  an  hour  tho 
wind  and  snow  will  have  torn  down  and  bm-ied  under  ten 
feet  of  snow  all  the  telegraph  wires.  The  thernu>meter  is 
still  going  down.  The  cold  is  insupiiortable,  notwitl^stand- 
ing  our  immense  stove  is  getting  red-hot  and  its  Jaws  flam- 
ing with  trunks  of  trees."  A  cattle  train  is  stojipcd  some 
distance  from  the  tavern.  AVe  hear  the  bellowing  of  the 
poor  beasts  in  the  midst  of  the  snow.  They  will  prol)ably 
jierish  by  the  cold  to-night. 

;Max,  by  virtue  of  begging,  has  obtained  a  bed  at  tho 
postmaster's,  whose  house  is  separated  from  ours  oidy  by 
a  small  garden.  It  is  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening.  We  have 
just  sumied  oji  venison  and  a  cu])  of  tea.  I  wished  to  go 
to  my  lodgings,  but  the  tempest  is  so  violent  that  I  have 
not  been  able  to  make  the  twentA'-fivo  paces  that  separate 
t]»e  house  from  the  post-oflice.  The  darkness  is  prt)f()und. 
Assisted  by  Firmin  and  Strakosch  I  again  venture  to  go 
out,  sui)]»orting  the  one  the  other;  thrown  down  at  every 
stej)  by  the  wind,  covert^l  with  snow,  and  almost  ijaralyzed 
with  cold,  we  reach  the  house  of  the  postmaster.  'The 
postmaster,  a  tall,  thin,  phlegmatic  American  with  a 
beard  turning  gray,  bi.'s  us  welcome.  The  teakettle  sings 
on  the  lighted  stove.  A  half-open  closet  reveals  the  plates 
and  preserves  of  the  family.  A  large  Bible  on  a  while 
woollen  table,  a  pretty  white  cat  who  puri-s  on  her  mis- 
tress's  lap,  a  little  girl  of  ten   years,  a  daughter  nf  the 

postmaster,  knitting  stockings  alongside   <  '  "her  mother. 
20  OS, 


230 


NOTES  OF  A  riASlST. 


,,,,..    all    ^---:,,  :   7    .ttt"-ant.     It  ccn.^ts  and 

dcH-s  not  «;'j;^*^'\,  :^{;;\"rtlK.AnK"n<-anlanno.-8.  The 
c<„ni..vlK",M  the  *•  \'  ,il  ts  w hieh  chameton/.e  them  are 
orae-rly  au.l  [-j-  ^^  ^^,  f  ;^:;  lurbnlence  and  brutah.mp, 
too  iiicomi«atil>le  ^Mtll  tul  .^i  ,.,,..Uc  vou  to  tind  an 

io-n„ranee  of  Em-opean  V^^^^^""  '  f  AinirWn  farmers, 
c^inivulent   to   the   la  .oinx>us  ''^^  ,^;^.^;[.rf/i  '  a,'  ,neans  of 
Ale  talk  polities  with  \\'«.r;   "^^^^^^^^^^ 
every  dass  m.derstand  m    unr  "^  ^^^,  !^  •'|,„,,,i,  everv 

to-morrow  moruuig.  ^^^^^^^^  ^_  ^^^^ 

SNOW  STORM  (THE  SEQUEL). 

Although  I  had  passc^  ^^S^^^ll.S^l^d^ ^l^l? ^ll^ 
^nth  a  ^v<>ollon  e(,mt..rter  a       u  Ivo^'^^'^^^^         ^^,.^^^^.„     , 

on  my  head,  a,u  though  I  -^^-^^'f  ^^^d  on  awaking 
under  my  mountam  ot  ^^'\-  ''  ^  \ ,  ^.  .,,,^,  The  thennome- 
,ay  mou.taehes  |-overed       tl    ha  ,n  ^^^  ^^^^^^^^^^ 

ter  thirty-two  degi^je  ^±1^^^^^^  ^o  put  them  under 
likewise  our  hats  and  ^^\^;*;^i  '^'J-  ...^  ..Lures  us  that  it 
the  stove  to  thaw  them.  An  ^^^^  ^^  \;l  '^^  ,„^  the  Indian 
^ill  he  avery  r^Z^^\^k..  high,  he  tells 
frontier  have  huilt  then  «;*'  "'^        ,       •  ^o  gain  the 

us,  and  all  the  trou  have  ^^;^J^^  ,,.^^J  intalli- 
(loep  water  ot  the  la.a;^.  1  ^  "^  ^'.^tlan-.  We  had  with 
l,ly\umounee  -^--;^;-U^,rf  am  anxious  to  learn 
us  in  our  ear  a  siek  Jo  uig  f*'  "/''V  ...,„,,  j^y^elf  carefully 
how  he  got  through  the  lu^l  t      I      J^'/'  >^,i,  ^lie  ear  to 

,,  in  furs  ^^^^^^  \X^  this  poor  num. 
learn  it  we  eould  do  '"^^"111^^^.^^^^^^^^^ 

He  is  verv  feeble  and  young.     "^' ^, ',  ;  "  '"^^e  care  of  him 
I  seek  in-the  village  for  some  one  nn  u  ^'"(.  { '^^^^'^^^^^    ,,,in 

i,nn,ei;.eur^     Poor^  yo;;;;g -- •  ^^  ^l^^^re  liable 

5::.r;nn1hisU,ri?of  tllars  Lx  eeiits.     I  have  ^und  a 


THE  FROZEN  HOUSE. 


281 


were  ueo<l  f<^r 
docenoy,  and 
It  conitorts  and 
uiidt'i-stand  (M* 
1  fiirnu'i's.  The 
'torizc  them  are 
and  brutali/.hig 
you  to  tind  an 
lerican  farmers. 

I  Americans  of 
ails  the  politit-d 

increases  every 
lisiht.  The  cold 
creak  as  if  thev 
o  to  shiver  until 

January  1,  1864. 

ill  my  clothes  on, 
••k,  and  a  fur  cap 
ly  lain  drawn  up 
Luid   on   awaking 
The  thermome- 
shoes  are  frozen, 
o  put  them  under 
•  assures  us  that  it 
rats  on  the  Indian 
iries  high,  he  tells 
rivers  to  gain  the 
gns  wliich  hifalli- 
iw     We  had  with 

II  anxious  to  learn 
p  myself  carefully 
;  I  seek  the  car  to 
fort  this  poor  man. 
irning  to  his  tiunily. 
ii\  take  care  of  him 
Will  he  ever  agam 
od  there  are  nohle 
ts.     I  have  found  a 


young  farmer,  who  undertakes  to  take  care  of  liini  gratui- 
tously. The  cattle  liave  bravely  supported  this  terrible 
night.  Only  one  horse  is  extended  on  tlic  ground  to  all 
ajipearance  frozen!  They  nib  him,  he  is  gettiny-  uj)  asrain, 
lie  will  probably  recover.  Tlie  engineers  and  ti'rcmen  have 
suffered  most.  Tliey  had  to  reniain  on  the  enijini's  all 
night  to  keep  up  the  lire,  or  the  water  in  the  boik-rs  would 
certainly  liave  been  frozen.  >i'o  ])rol)ability  of  being  able 
to  start  to-day.  Milwaukee  is  iniiK)ssil)le.  I  cannot  even 
return  to  Thicago,  althougli  the  wind  blows  in  that  direc- 
tion, and  consequently  would  help  us  in  getting  alons; 
before  us  the  snow  is  piled  up  into  immense  drifts  which 
render  the  Journey  impossible.  AVe  breakfast.  Before  the 
<lining-room  stove  an  enormous  deer  is  stretched  out,  killed 
last  night  at  our  request;  it  will  be  for  our  dinner.  It  has 
the  handsomest  head  that  I  have  seen.  We  have  also  quails. 
They  cost  liere  sixty  cents  per  dozen,  and  are  almost  as 
large  as  pigeons.  Ihe  ladies,  I  am  told,  passed  the  night 
in  dancing.  Some  one  found  a  fiddler  in  the  village.  For- 
tunately there  is  no  piaiio ;  but  for  that  I  should  have  liad 
to  play. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


Adrian,  Michigan,  January  8,  1864. 

iNFAMors  ooncci-t.  Seventy-eight  dollars ! !  The  peoj.le 
pay  that  they  prefer  "a  good  negro  sliow."  They  are 
furious  at  the  price  for  adniission — one  dollar. 

A  singular  American  characteristic!  They  insult  us  as 
if  we  forced  them  to  pay. 

In  the  cars  a  tjcvUemav  and  a  lady  are  talking:  "These 
people  are  those  who  exhibite<l  last  evening."  "  Xo,  they 
belong  to  the  panorama,  wliich,  in  parentriesis,  must  be  a 
very  handsome  attiiir  judging  from  the  price  of  admission — 
one  dollar"  (this  is  spoken  wirh  a  dissatisfied  air). 

One<lollar  admission!  it  is  the  universal  theme.  Everj-- 
body  talks  about  it,  and,  singularly,  it  is  with  animosity,  as 


I  ^ 


232  NOTES  OF  A  riANIST. 

if  the  fact  of  rutting  on  the  bill,  one  .lullar  was  Huffic-iont 
lo  lake  the  pjico  ot"  admUsiun  out  ot  thou- pocket,  it  is 
monstrous '. 

February  22. 

tin-  theatre  ot  the  niarisaererf  coiuiuiucu  uj 
fomuk>r  and  lather  of  our  groat  republic. 

Bridoepobt,  February  23. 

A  iM-ettv  little  town,  two  hours  of  railway  tVom  Xew 
Yo^llhe  birthplace  of'  Toni  Thumb'  and  ot '  Banauu. 

February  24. 
,  -kT       -vr^^v     rrnwflofl      It  is  the  ninety-tit'th 

voyage  to  the  Antilles. 

Habtford,  February  25. 

A  hnndsotne  town  in  Connecticut,  four  and  a  half  hours 
from  New  Sr  Whilst  I  was  in  a  music  store  I  heard 

"^"j^fZHf  "'^^^^^  to  Gottsehalk's  concert  ?" 
i;:^t;^-^^i^  di  and  a  place  on  the  front 

"'"fLi  Z«<v.-"It  is  too  near,  the  sound  is  not  so  pure  as 
at  a  distance." 


■  •*qW?.lfl-|iriMi>«'?*  "^ 


,va3  Ruffic'iont 
[)ocket.     it  iri 

Fi'bruary  22. 
irtluvo  weeks, 
Washintrtoii's 
ig  visited  the 
o  the  oxtivine 
)ries.  I  t'oiint 
,-ill  i>usli  on  as 
iite,  which  was 
10  liidiaus  two 

.'Oiling.  After 
,'  which  c-hIUhI 
0  tVoni  the  eir- 
ashington,  the 


RT,  FeV)ruary  23. 

rt-ay  from  New 
of '  Barnuin.' 

February  24. 

the  !iinety-tifth 
I  in  the  city  of 
withont  count- 
gave  before  my 


jRD,  February  25. 

uul  a  half  hours 
sic  store  I  heard 

alk's  concert  ?" 
ice  on  the  front 

18  not  80  pure  as 


BOSTOX  AXD  PROVIDEXCE. 


Srooml  hi>h/.—^<l  do  i„,t  ,>aro  about  lieariu"-.     I  w 
see  his  lingers.     1  kiu)w  all  liis  ].ieces." 
First  /«(///.—"  Ah  !     You  play  the  piano  V 
ScouH<lit,l!,~^^So!  bat  1  have  a  friend  icho  plam  ti 


233 

ant  to 


on  the  (juitdr.'' 
(The  trutli.) 


phvjs  them  all 


FAjruary  2U. 
Concert  at  Eoston.     Very  fine  concert.     P.oston,  hy  a  su f- 
fic.entlv  singular  anomaly,!.:  the  city  whicli  has  eontri- 
hute<l    he  most  to  M.ake  off  the  yoke  of  the  metropolis,  and 
that  which  lias  retained  the  most  English-like  appearance. 
It  IS  par  exce  ence  flic  aristocratic  city.     It  pretends  to  ho 
the  most  mtellectual  in  the  United  States.     It  is  not  to  bo 
denied  tliat  it  has  niade  enormous  progress  in  the  sciences 
and  arts.     1  he  university  at  Cambridge  is  the  mostcele- 
ra  ed  m  the  United  States.     Her  poets  are  known   tlie 
w  orld  over.     She  has  for  eight  year,s  possessed  the  lar-^es^ 
organ  m  America.     (It  cost  sixty  thousand  dollars  in  Ger- 
many.)    A  musical  amateur  (Mr.  Perkins)  has  presented  to 
fl.e  city  a  statue  of  JJeethoven  which  cosfAwelle  thousand 
dollars.     It  IS  a  beautiful  work  of  art.     Boston  has  ^ix 

till  ty-ti  ve  hundred  persons.     It  is  in  the  latter  one  of  these 
the  '  Fremont,'  that  I  gave  my  concerts.     It  is  in    nV 

cJrt'T.|n  -^'.t'^  for  hearing  and  the  most  magnificent  coi^ 
cert  liall  in  the  world. 

Providence,  February  27. 

Two  hours  from  Boston.  An  aristocratic  city,  and  one 
of  the  oldest  in  the  United  States.  It  was  founded  by  one 
of  the  i  uritan  pilgrims  who  emigrated  under  the  (\atholic 
•ivmg  James  II.,  and  still  preserves  the  rigidity  of  its  fbim- 
?.^?'  I  J'P^'c,  a  large  audience.  It  is  the  first  concert 
without  ram  that  I  have  given  in  Providence 

Xear  to  Providence  (at  Newport)  is  the  United  States 
^r.  Jf  ,\T^^''  ^T^''\  '^^^^""  ^^  ^''"^at  importance. 
Union  ^^  *^^  smallest  State  of  the 

20* 


234 


NOTES  OF  A  PIASIST. 


i\ 


Sunany,  February  28. 

emu,'.:.   Markocl  F^f^^^^I^^'J  ".  „' 1,„  ,Uhon.    Two 

ieen  succcsstul.  ovorflowins— all    my  pieocs  have 

Thi.  ^vening-lmll   o^crflo^vmg^  ^.^^^^  J^  ilasou's  new 

^J^XS:^  aS:;^^  IJ^tty.    no  manuiuctures  cue  huu- 
drcd  weekly. 

February  29. 

Kecoived  an  invitation  iVoxn  th.  ^^^J^^ 

Blin<l,ana  Deaf  and  Dumb.    .^  f^}  ^d  tl  em  to  come 
taken'a  great  ^^ftcf  on  for  mo  su^e  I  m^^^^^^^^^  .^^^^^^ 

to  all  my  concerts.    They  ^^;  ^  ^,  "^;'^^S    ^    ^ijeni,  baBlcets 
sent  me  two  days  ago  ^^^^ej^r^^^^^  "^f,vrit\cn  by  a  young 

really  touched  by  this  gitt. 

•'  March  1. 

I  „art  in  two  ho,™  ^'^'^^^  ^-JhT.nrJS 
Boston.  A  concert  there  tin.  «""  ^.^ii,"^,^  "The  .tnge 
i„g,  a..a  it  fe  Tf ^"foonaxe^f  otinT  o  Uich,  .luring 

7':uSt^™KerVo;k^;it;^ra;.H-e^t  eight 

o'clock  in  the  morning. 


The 
been 


•DM 


YALK  t .   .LEGJm 


2:55 


(ly,  Ffliruary  28. 

I  (lay  of  mortal 
One  can  now 
L!  driven.  Two 
ilv  liftoon  yoavri 
arctl  like  nion- 
ston. 

iinist,  and  gracc- 
rs  at  Boston— 
»rolK'stra  at  the 
leras  which  have 

my  pieces  have 
on  Mason's  new 
factures  one  hun- 

I'ebruary  29. 

rtitution  for  the 
,r  creatures  liave 
ted  them  to  come 
lissed  one.  They 
hy  them,  baslcets 
rittcn  l»y  a  young 
Bridgcman.     The 

JU. 


l  have  been 


March  1. 

;  three  hours  from 
The  snow  is  fall- 
idience.    The  stage 
r  to  which,  during 
[>ed  and  slid  as  far 
fingering  the  air  1 
rough  a  cul-de-sac, 
ler  "staircase  which 
lid  arrive  at  a  little 
[ire  sewing.     Leave 
,vc  arrive  at  eight 


Miirdi  2. 

Last  evening,  Afiss  Harris,  a  young  American  jirinia 
dduna,  made  her  delnit  in  'Lucia.  Success :  voice  u  little 
weak,  hut  much  intclligenct'  and  great  facility.  This  e\cn- 
iiig,  concert  at  Nihlo's.  J  play  the  <iuatuor'of  JJeethnvcii 
in  K  Hat.  Tlie  aiidaiito  (which  recalls,  in  the  first  bars, 
'  Hatti'  of  J)on  .luau)  is  one  of  the  sweetest,  most  tender,  and 
brightest  inspirations  of  the  giant  of  Loim. 

March  3. 
Left  for  Xew  Haven.  A  charming  city,  where  the  cele- 
brated university,  '  Yale  College,'  is  situated.  The  students 
number  six  hundred.  They  confer  degrees  as  hii^h  as  Dr. 
of  Sciences.  Large  audience  at  the  cfnicert.  Decidedly, 
the  i'uritaiiism  of  Xew  Kngland  is  rapidily  disapiieariii" 
and  vanishing  away.  The  majority  of  niy  audience  is 
composed  this  eveuhig  of  Episeo])afians,  and  nevertheless 
we  are  in  Lent ! ! ! 

Ml  'ch  4. 

Loft  tliis  morning  for  Stamford,  where  I  jilay  this  even- 
ing. Arrived  sit  lialf  ]»ast  eleven  o'clock  A.  M.  It  is  a 
]ii'etty  town.  There  are  two  large  colleges  lor  young  yirls, 
who,  without  mistake,  will  be  a"t  the  concert.  My  "tickets 
are  sold  at  the  post-office. 

J3rignoli,  after  an  absence  from  the  stage  of  nearlv  a 
year,  has  made  his  re-ai)pearance  at  the  Academy  of  Music, 
now  under  the  direction  of  JSraretzek.  The  t)pera  selected 
by  this  charming  tenor  was  'I  Puritani.' 

Jirignoli  has  l)een  for  eidit  years  the  tenor  par  excellence 
of  Xew  Yoi'k  City.  Of  all  the  singei-s  who  have  appeared 
for  twenty-five  years  on  our  first  lyric  stage,  he  is  the  oiilv 
one  who  has  succeeded  in.  triumphing  over  the  insatiable 
avidity  of  our  ]teople  for  novelty  and  change.  Mirate, 
Alario,  were  greatly  applauded  when  they  came,  but  hardly 
had  they  lett  when  they  were  forgotten,  and  they  have 
turned  again  to  Brignoli  with  more  "enthusiasm  than  ever. 
One  of  the  most  charming  of  the  lady  admirers  of  Brignoli 
exclaimed,  on  hearing  Mario  one  evening,  that  the  latter 
had  lieen  less  adroit  than  ordinary  in  concealing  by  his  art 
and  talents  the  changes  which  time  had  made  on  him ! 


n 


yO^-KS  OF  A  PIASIST. 

(lunnji  whuh  ^'"f  **'"'V„     ;,,  .mblu-  ostimatuni,  an.l  l.a^^ 
in  m%  l>as  j;auu;.    f^'  '"  ,,     ,  ;  tl  ^  ....nuos  wl.u-h   I'.r.- 

en-at.(l  u  l-^)'^'^^   j^    ^,:'  ^^hmn.     Maz.oUni  Is  a  t.nur 
n..U-rt  HUCH-c-ss   aul  iai>e.   a     n  ^^^^^^  .^na-tmu-s  .. 

.,U  1-orza;'  hn  v..uo  ;^     '';''".  !,  '      .d  m-tor,  a.al,  at 

nml,  srm.nis   '«"»/\  "'^'^  /  \  J.-l ,.  want  it  tor  tlu-ir  iiumey, 
.leasl-s  the  hulk  ot-tlK-imblc^^^^^^^^^^^  ,,^^^,^  f,,  a.c 

hoara-of  Huc.e..,  .lue  in   u       o  the  1  u^  ^^^^^  j.^^j,,,,    ,,1 

of  ^hlzz<>lini.     >I"^t'    ;wM   1  t  H  li.     rai-ties  ^vel•e  iui- 

IncHliatcly  fonned  .[  I^^^^^^^^.'^'u  ;Ii>rtunately,  Br  f^noh 
full  from  the  top  t;\tlu.  '  t  ».  ^^  ^^^^.^  ^,  v.tlle  fatigne.1, 
whose  last  \nv  with  m^J^  ^^.^^L  k  fore  the  imhlu-  was 
was  confused,  llis  mitural  \  '  y\\  ,^,,Vuii,  who  from  the 
i,u-reascd  hy  the  sight  ot  his  "^ "  -jj.^;;^;,"  ^^^.y,^  it  is  that 
11  thrust' at  him  two  T^T^^nouLr^^ho  .an 
,uy  Briguoli  became  V'""f  >  f '^  ^  ^^  J^^^  maimer  in  the 

sing,  that  is  to  say,in  *»'«  "Xti  n  thev  gave 'Sonuuim- 
^.^rld.  Atthese«md^i;-^en^;^^^^^^^  ^he  second 
hula,'  and  13n-noli  ';^'^/^"l^  {^^^^  [j,^  by  Lotti,  a  young 
act;  they  were  forced  .^.^^l^^'^;^,  it^to/hut  will  Boon  be- 
GoAnan  ten-^,  who  is  J  et  J  ^"^^J^^V said  without  contra- 
ct .me  a  distinguished  star     it  may  ^^^^^^^^  ^^x 

diction  that  the  en/;-^;  ^^^^^^^^^  to  make  an  ovati<>.i  tor 
oin.<-ents^l.rohtedl^N'      eoccasim  ^^^^  ^^^^^   ^^^^^ 

Lotti.  These  sm.dl  J^^f  f ^^.J^-bmn^n  passions  are  so 
exquisites  in  .^^^^^'^f  *"  ^.^'xt  to  show  themselves.  The 
halty  and  easily  ^^^^ '\  '^f^!;^  ,t  ,.e  of  the  stag's  head  and 


i.a; 


SHORT  COSCKnT. 


2:17 


c  up  fifty  voy 
liiii."    This  i!J_ 
J  iiiiliort;iiue  ot 
isoiirt  ultsoiu-e — 
(I  by  Man't/.ek 
nation,  aixl  lin'* 
ios  whu-h   Hfisi- 
'.■/A)\\\\\  is  a  tiMinr 
(I  ^(.iiK'tinu's  t'f 
lI  actor,  aii<l,  at 
.,  whu'li  always 
for  tlu-ir  luoia-y, 
ty  than  for  the 
'in  oik;  i>liii'(ii>i>l>'' 
r,  thov  havo  the 
.robalAy  the  first 

\,  has  had  an  nii- 
aiul  to  the  ai'tiiitC 
iror,  has  fathoinotl 
^rartios  were  hu- 
he  Acaaoiii^V  was 
unately,  Bnjijnoh, 
il  a  little  fatit^ued, 
ore  the  i»ublic  was 
)lini,  who  from  the 
i  \    Thus  it  is  that 
viot  suns:;  as  he  can 
ing  manner  in  the 
ley  gave  '  Sonmam- 
1  after  the   second 
hy  Lotti,  a  young 
?,  but  will  soon  he- 
aid  without  contra- 
10  were   almost  all 
make  an  ovation^  tor 
|,t  the  New   \ork: 
man  passions  are  so 
,w  themselves,      ilio 
'  the  stag's  head  and 
carries  with  him,  to 


nssci-Mliat  liis  confusion  and  disorder  Imve  boon  caused  bv 
a  baritone  of  liis  oncinios,  whom  onr  tonor  insists  on  Ito- 
lio\ing  an  rri/  ci/r,  iuid  whom  lio  soos  as  lie  cdmos  upon 
the  stage  wicki'dly  sitting  in  the  lirsf  box  in  the  i-allorv. 

Tlie  concert  was  (h'|ilorablo  tins  cvoniiiir.  ("omploto  si- 
I011CO.  1  correct  myst-U'.  Silence  wlion  1  entered  and  when 
1  went  out,  but  ninmated  conversation  all  the  time  1  was 
l>!!iyiiig.  But  happily  we  conducted  tilings  brisklv,  and 
dispatched  over  eight  pieces  in  twenty-fivo'miniites/ 

It  isia)t  hali-past-eight,and  I  have  alreadv  uv*  mv  over- 
coat on  again.  "Shoit  m„j  sweet,"  said  a^'lairminir  irirl 
iroing  out.  "A  great  deal  shorter  than  sweet,"  ^rinn- 
bliiigly  answered  her  beau.  This  is  the  only  concert  where 
no  piece  has  been  encored.  1  pi'rci'ive<i  on'the  wall  of  the 
artist's  saloon  the  ornamental  signatures  of  musical  c  'leb- 
rities  who  have  preceded  nio.  "AV/,,,"  f<„uuthiii,]  (the  nsimo 
was  not  legible),  "the  best  dancer  in  wooden  shoes  in  the 
whole  world."  It  was  himself  who  wrote  it.  "Charley 
such  a  one,  a  first-rate  drummer,  wlio  can't  bo  beat.''  There 
are  anomalies  in  tlie  credulity  of  Americans  which  proceed 
less  from  a  bad  disjiosition  than  from  candid  ignorance. 
For  examjilo,  a  child  or  a  young  girl  asks  her  tather  for 
something  at  table,  and  takes  good  eare  not  to  add, 'if 
you  iiloasc  ;'  when  she  is  served.  It  is  very  rare  to  hear  her 
say,  'thank  you.'  As  for  the  men,  it  "is  useless  ever  to 
ask  them  to  make  use  of  these  puerile  formulas.  They  are 
too  innti/)/.  This  again  aj)pears  in  the  order  of  ideas  which 
makes  them  walk  on  thou-  heels,  and  make  as  much  noise 
as  possible,  when  they  ha\e  to  cross  a  saloon.  At  all  my 
concerts  I  liave  an  opportunity  of  obser\  lug  this.  They 
would  1)0  ashamed  to  walk  on  tip-toe,  it  would  not  be 
worthy  of  a  strong  mind  ;  but  wliat  do  they  call  '  manly"? 
Is  it,  Avhen  you  tread  on  your  neiglibour's  feet,  to  look  at 
him  with  a  menacing  air,  as  if  sj^ying  to  him,  if  you  are 
not  satisfied  I  will  knock  you  down?  All  this  is  'niunly'l 
J/'/;*/// comes  from  man,  and,  man  being  superior  to  the  brute 
through  his  intelligence  and  not  through  his  force,  should 
this  not  be  rather  called  brutality?  An  artist  ap[)oars  be- 
fore the  public,  he  salutes  you  ;  do  you  not  feel  something 
which  tells  you  that  you  ought  in  return  for  his  salute  to  give 
him  welcom  ,  by  the  only" means  which  is  in  your  power. 


_-L 


14 


luMrlnni\vilUl'kui^ni(,iuio        mm,,,,;  .it'tor   u  I'Uh-c   hurt 

,l,Hs  1k'  mipiK-ar  ti.  >1iovn  that   k  ^^     ^^^^.  ^,^_^^ 

1  have  what  I  ^va.lt,  1  >'}^'h''V  .,^     ;,,l<^  for  it.     Y"U  tell 

,,„  these  «r.  S^^vni'  'I  usk  panlon-wh.n  vo.f  ure 
you  V'^'^-^^;  .  />,'^tf,  ;  .h  oonstunt  .lisoipVuR.,  uro  Ukejo 
accusto'iu'dtotlicin  im  >u.,i'  _  ,.„,,,. ^,,.,t\„uM\ts()tuiiK'mty 
nany  I'ttU"  ^'unals  through  whu-h  -  ;  *  .  ,v.  A  man 
.,,,.1  Volit^'noss  arc  uccustouuxl  /  ^1^ 'I'  .  '  !,^  , ,,i  t<,  .x- 
who  troa.ls  uyoa  ,uy  corns,  ';>;  !\^J  .J^i^^u.  to  become 
p,vs.  to  me  U  rep-et,  ih  ee.t  .>  !  ,\^.  '^^,;  ,i..  he  ha. 
ly  iViend  than  my  onem^^      ,^^.^\';^'^, ie.it  il.litierence, 

^  t^'lm";  oi'  ^v^  ^nda  have  tewer  disgusting  hghts, 
S^^hSn;^^lation,arunkem.ss,cte. 

M(ir<;li  5. 

Matinee  nt  Kew  Yor^,  J-f ^  ^^^.ll^t^  rlt^'S 
opera  ('Faj^t')  ^<^<^V^:^^X^T.X^^y^  W^- 
able  opposition.  ^  V  V  tbo  <levnrturc  ot'  tlie  tirst  negro 
^Vhat  IB  gouig  oni  It  ^!:^^;^/^ /'^j^;j;^  ^.  rail  in  one 
..hnent  for  th..  war.  ^/Jl'^Xiisclkv  who  disposes  of 
iumr.  My  tnnor  goes  to  the  "J^f^^jl^"^^/ ,,,  jersey  is  IIk- 
my  tiekeis.     Uc  has  sold  nme  t  ekets.     jN tu  ^c      i 

epochs  that  1  have  given  co.  ce  ts  ^  ^^^  y  ./^.^^^^^^^  i.^^^on, 
plrsons.  Oranjje,  ^^^f  ^'f '.f  ^g^^  ,  •  t  ,  Madame  Bost- 
Ihe  iirst  timo  1  -'^''fl'  f  ve  d    Uu-s  cross  receipts,  ex- 


{ 


iVA" \y j/-:i{s/-: \  jxciiiMiu:. 


230 


(.(1  ir<  it  lint  the 
iirf  dis^iost'd  to 
iiviiiliirttiivour 
LT   !i  I'UH'i'   lia»* 
10  1  lay  I'lay  it 
ivour)."    lliu-tlly 
)  airiMlo  t^\vt>iir 
<iii<l,  "N«'\vtliiit 
irt  tlic  cliiltl  ii:*l<- 
ir  it.     Vtiu  till 
those  tritii-s— 'if 
— wluii  yoii  are 
j.Vnie,  are  like  so 
nuMitsofamonity 
wartlly.     A  man 
iniri  rouiul  to  ex- 
liVcoly  to  booonic 
s  tlio  l>aiii  lie  lias 
)lont  iiidittoroiK'C, 
iro  rootod  in  our 
lisguating  tights, 
tc. 

Mar<;li  5. 

ICO,  although  tho 
hour,  a  roinark- 
iKluisitivo  iKoi)k\ 
of  the  first  iiogro 
son  by  rail  in  ono 
r  who  (lis[)Orics  ot 
New  Jersey  is  th" 
hole  world  exeepL 
ly  memory  enables 
itained  at  difleront 

Elizabeth,  eighty 
:."s  fault.  Trenton, 
ith  Madame  Bost- 
i  cross  reeoipts,  ex- 
rto  divide  among 
trv  once  more  my 

iiosult,  forty-nine 


dollars  cross  ro('oi|tts;  audionoo  icv,  tho  |iroinisos  goimr  to 
wreck.^  I  coidd  not  oven  suii-ood  In  iiiiiking  thoin  a|i|il7iiid 
1110.  The  only  niaiiifostiition  tlint  I  obtiiiiuil  was  n  blast 
of  11  wlii^flo  which  u  faci'lioiis  Tri'iitonian  hiMccil  at  nio 
after 'Muniiiiros  Ki. lions.'  After  tho  ooncot't  a  gontloinaii 
came  to  ask  nu'  if  1  stow  'othts  Kolions'  ju  my  |iiaiiii. 
Jsow  .Ioi*soy  is  iiiourablo.  Coiicorts  will  lu-vor  take  tlu  ro. 
Ihirry  Sanderson  Idinsi'lf  also  tried  a  clianci'  at  New 
Jh'iinswiok  (take  iioliei'  that  it  is  tho  most  liboral  jilarc  of 
all  in  Xow  doisi-y  for  oonoorts),  gross  recoi|ils,  lirst  conceit 
Kovontoon  dollars,  second  concert  twelve  dollars.  I  must 
iievertlieloss  state  that  tho  negro  minstrel  n']irosoiitalions 
always  diiiw  the  crowd. 

Obsorvation— A  man  saiil  to  my  ttinor,  "The  jkm  plo 
here  lait  down  (Jottschalk,  becuuse  the  last  ti'!".  ho  was 
here  lie  v.as  so  drunk  ho  oould  not  i»lay."  To  thosi'  who 
know  my  liabits  this  will  appear  loss 'iirnoble  than  hidi- 
oroiis.  Decidedly,  that  French  pliilosopher  who  said  with 
great  gravity, '•  plus  jo  oonnais  riiomine  ot  ithis  je  profori- le 
chion"  (the  bettor  I  know  man,  tho  more  I  prefer  the  doi;), 
did  not  after  all  say  anything!:  very  liorriblo.  I  am  I'l^it 
a\\;aro  that  dogs  tear  eaeh  otlier  to  pieees  with  as  mueh 
avidity  as  men  do. 

M.irt'li  7. 

Left  Xew  York  nt  ten  o'clock  for  Pliiladolphia,  who>v  I 
am  to  give  u  concert  this  evening.  Last  evening  the  oonoert 
for  the  benelit  of  Harrison  took  place.  The  oVohestra  per- 
formed the  overture  of  an  oitera,  'bourgeois  gentilhomme,' 
composed  by  Fradellc.  The  German  opera  is  broken  up 
for  want  of  money. 


up 


March  S. 
Fine  concert  at  Philadelphia.  The  liberal  movement 
Avhich  is  making  way  against  Puritan  bitcotrv  is  gainin<? 
ground  every  day.  The 'I'rotostant  clergy  at  this  moment 
are  taking  nieasures  to  ]>revent  the  running  of  cars  on 
Sunday.  They  have  calletl  a  meeting  to  whil-li  they  have 
invited  all  those  who  arc  in  favour  of  observin<f  the  Sab- 
bath. Xono  but  the  '  reverends' were  at  the  iiieetinir.  I 
played  at  the  concert  Tumdiauser" s  march  for  four  pianos. 


';  'a 
I  I 


24Q  yon:s  or  a  /v.i.v/n?'. 

RKTriiK  TO  Nkvv  Y..UU,  WMnMilny.  Mnr<  li  0. 

In  Ir^vat  .Iral  of  taU-nt,  of  ^vhi.■l.  I  an.  l.n.u.l  ior  .n..re 
than  o!,;  .-.ason,  l.avu.g  l-ccu  hi.  l.rmcipul  luust.r  a.ul 
m«mt.  coUHtuiit  iVirlul. 

Ma-      J>. 

Left    lor  Nonvalk.     In   cvory   M,mrtc.r  'Su.       •^       u^^ 
an-  I'l-'.sirnt.Ml  with  onthnsiasni.     ^   '>'"f"'         >,.,niH    0  ■ 

o/.;    'ml.ting   allthoHinall    town.,     fhoy  ^v^'»    l'»-^"^l> 
make  in  all  twenty  millions.  . 

Nor^-alk  is  a  {.retty  town,  i.i.turoscino  posmon.     \  j 
ton  miles  from  th'o  town  t.,  tho  stat.on,  j-roporly  ..ok    J 
T  u.  roa.l  is  wi.lo  an.l  shado.l  with  t.vos  !)>  -nnnnoi-  Ik         I 
imoli  Iho  ,..vtty  whitowoodon  housos  with  groo.i  shutters 

"^^rti";  nntortnnato  proiu.lioo!     A   haokman,  who 
had  a     m-o  otVoro.1  mo  his  slrvioos  with  an  ahnost  a.greo- 
no  air  (I  say  almost,  hooanso  no  haok-<lnvor  ^  toro...l  to 
h     ,u  lito,  thn.ntrh  .-ortain  laws  of  whuh  yon  and  I  a  o 
:„,;    t,'hat  whioh  donhtless  are  diotato.l     *>  ^ -"\  j  ^ 
H^no   anthority),   no  sooner  saw  ('»'-l;>  ^„;";  ';"1;,  ..^^   '^ 
than  he  clisc-overod  the  error  he  was  ahont  ^^\'^''    f'^ 
taking   us   for    slightly   respectahle   |;'''5^:V:    ;,     "  ,     e 
ciuestlon,  "Where  are  yon  gomg,  yon  oti.er  •'        <;\    X'  ^^  ^ 
that  ho  appreoiatod  UH  at  our  value,  or  at  that  winch  the 
tnihlic  opinuni  of  my  dear  country  gives  ns. 
^   The  cLnceit  take^  phu-c  in  on.  of  ^  -   'andson^  h^o 
tils   tliat  I  have  yet   poen   in  the  ,^:'Vf^' \.^V  1 1.   .  J 


hall 


ouht,  the  same  whieh  I  had  here  last 

vcai  is  one  of  those  for  whom  I  am  disposed  to  report  as 
manV  .ieces  as  they  wish  me  to.  An  amiahb  amhence 
wan^i  ^  nteUiger.t,  elegant,  tJie  majority  c-omposed  ot  young 
^i^  rwWe  oTuivming^.hysiognomies  are  --^«  ^«  ^^  j,  ^ 
oads  of  pianists,  i.rosent  and  future,  who  ^1»«1  ^^^J  l*; 
(ess  prudent  than  UlysHeB)  to  cast  their  eyos  upon  c. 
Lditory.    I>oar  Xor^^llk!  I  love  you  whom  I  Imo     m  c 

.thiiu'  for,  hoth  for  the  warm  sympathy  that  yo^^V'^;; 

te,  anS  for  having  escaped  the  icy  iniluence  oi  your  neigh^ 


fi 


lU 

me 


-^»»»»>i»iTlP*fftTi 


-nrt^»"'^*S*-'^'» 


.1/.1//.I.I/  .1. Y.V.I  iiisiior. 


241 


lOfldny,  Man  li  0. 
Ill  jiiniii.-t  who 
iruutl  l'i>r  iiiDro 
ml   luasti  r  aiul 


Ma-     0. 


'Sat 


n    t  irs 

'  .  l.ro- 
)stoii  S-J(Ht,UO() ; 
l,20(»,<K)i):  witli- 
r  will   i»robubly 

poHiticm.  It  is 
oiktIv  s]icakiiijr. 
siiiiiiiK'i",  Ih'IiiihI 
h  givoii  rihutterd 

liackman,  who 
in  almost  niireo- 
rivcr  in  tbrcctl  to 
1  you  ami  I  nro 
fed   to  thcTu   l;y 

niihicky  violin 
nt  to  conmiit  in 
itlcnu'n,  and  hirt 
i-rt?"  iir()V('<l  to  mo 
it  that  which  the 

handsomest  little 
itod    Statos.     My 
li  I  had  hi-re  last 
losc'd  to  repeat  as 
iimiahlo  audience, 
omposcd  of  young 
!  made  to  turn  the 
A-ho  shall  venture 
r  eyes  upon  their 
/honi  I  have  done 
hy  that  yon  show 
nice  of  your  neigh- 


hour  Stamford,  wlms,.  niiH'iniiraiK  <■,  without  hriiig  so  drnr, 
A\ill  last  as  loii.r  us  ^uiii-s.  \V,u\  iniprfssions,  uhisl  nii^ravi' 
thciiisclvi'H  as  dci'ply  on  the  memory  as  the  good,  ami  T)lti'n 
the  latter  even  arc  cfliiccd  while  the  otlu'i's  still  reiiiaiii. 

Half  ail  hour  after  tlu^  eoiieert  I  was  again  on  the  rail- 
road  for  JJostoii.  One  word  more,  ^'orwalk  (it  is  with 
regret  that  I  state  this)  has  no  good  eitrars.  The  one  I  liave 
just  smoked,  hoiight  at  the  hole!,  is  veritaide  poison.  Ar- 
rivi'd  at  i$oston  at  seven  o'clock.  The  railway  jiorter  has  for- 
gotten to  put  oiir  trunks  in  the  ear,  an<l  liappier  than  we, 
tlicy  remain  traiKjiiilly  hehiml.  If  tliey  do  not  arrive  in 
time,  we  shall  have  t(>  ]>iit  off  the  concert  this  evening.  I 
am  assured  that  I  can  sue  the  railroad  ci.inpany,  hut  I  know 
liy  heart  the  fahle  of  the  iron  j.ot  and  the  earthen  i.ot,  and 
have  learned  to  my  cost  that  lawsuits  ai\' a  had  husnii'ss  I'or 
those  who  attack  othei-s  stronger  than  themselves. 

UiiHTON,  March  11, 

rniileasaiit  weather.  I  piny  hadly — too  nmcli  liitigued, 
and  have  the  inilucn/.a.  Ahidam  Anna  IJishoj)  also  gives 
u  concert  this  evening.  She  is  at  least  lifty  years  ol.l, 
hut  thanks  to  lier  name,  rendered  illustrious  bv  her  first 
husl»and.  Sir  llenry  JJishop,  the  composer  oif  'HonK', 
Sweet  Home,'  and  also  to  the  great  jjopulari.y  she  enjoys 
ill  the  United  States,  which  she  has  acciuired  hy  sin^nng 
Knglish  ballads,  she  still  succeeds  in  makmggood  receipts] 
ller  voice  is  yet  agreeable,  and  she  uses  it  with  art.  She 
lias  married,  for  the  third  time,  Mr.  Seliult7.e,an  Anu'riean, 
who  has  nothing  to  do  with  art.  Her  second  husband  was 
Bochsa,  the  celebrated  har].ist  of  the  First  Kmpire. 

Second  concert.     Eichberg  givea  an  orchestral  concert. 


Ennu  i — en  n  ii  i — en  nui. 


21 


Sunday,  March  13. 


242 


yoTES  or  A  riAMST. 


CHAPTER  Xlll. 

March  14. 
T  FFT  at  oi<'ht  in  the  movning  for  Ts^omich  (Connec-ticut). 
Tn  1   o  (.  u-  a  Sibour  introduoexl  hinisolt  \o  mo  as  one  ot 

1,1,1,  It-  to  So     Ho  is  a  singular  pcrsoiingc,  who  dosOTvra 

/    w,      Tiio  iiiniu'iDak  have  come  witn  me  toniav  i*j  j^^ 
^/<y(//i.     i  he  pi  "1^  paid  iia  j   ^    ,    ^^  introduce  you 

your  concert     But  I  dc.i^e  I  f  ^       f  ^^^j  i  „,,i,e  them 

to  '"yfl'thvPrSiS  ou  t^^^  harps,  which  oo.t  me 
work  it  out  1)}  i)racuhiuj,  w  _  ^o.^- .  ,'„.,i  i  i,nvo  besides 
eid.t  hmidral  ,l«i;a.-«,tlioht«t  >n  182.  •  '  fj,  ;  X^„„  f  „m 
t>von.y.live  ,.la,»«,  ta"  -J  ^  '-^  C/  mo*"  o  "Sfes^^r 
the  harps  which  are  trom  i»io>     -i-^^'.^  „     i  t 

gets  up  he  looks  as  if  about  to  take  wings  to  fly  avNay.    i 


March  14. 
oh  (Connecticut). 
:'  to  uio  as  one  of 
ic  master,  whose 
They  go  from 
■hich  they  teach 
)nff8,  etc.     There 
[his  purpose, 
lie  snow  sparkles 
3  on  the  roail  we 
vho  are  going  to 

:tlcn>    introduced 
)ge,  who  deserves 
re  bust,  short  and 
rii  beneath  which 
'ofessor  in  a  basso- 
been  the  founder, 
Gprietor  for  forty 
)ung  girls  who  in- 
18  than  fourteen  or 
.od  health— and  I 
ly  that  during  the 
'Music  Vale'"  (tbe 
ituatcd  in  the  mid- 
^.erc  has  vot  been  one 
me  to-day  to  go  to 
y  to  introduce  you 
,  and  I  make  them 
rps,  which  cost  me 
and  I  have  besides 

old"  (j"<^gi"g  ^"^'""^ 
,'  time  the  professor 

igs  to  fly  away.    I 


MUSIC  VALE. 


243 


Va 

am 


gave  liini  seats  for  liimself  and  liis  school.  After  the  con- 
ciTt  he  came  and  grasped  my  liand  warmly ; "  never,  no  iic\cr, 
have  I  lieard  anything  so  touching."  liis  enthusiasm  kncu 
no  bound-; ,  he  embraced  me,  and  I  am  convinced  from 
making  acquaintance  with  his  breath  of  what  I  liad  already 
sus  tected — that  is  to  say,  that  the  woithy  professor  of '  Music 

e'  is  a  nuich  greater  amateur  of  whiskey  than  of  miisic; 

after  having  been  introduced  to  his  pupils,  I  discovered 
that  Apollo  has  less  to  do  at  the  seminary  than  his  mother. 

Nkw  London. 

Arrived  at  half  past  eleven  A.M.  Walked  tlirough 
the  town  in  spring-like  weather.  The  churches  are  in  tlie 
ratio  of  one  for  every  ten  dwellings.  I  noticed  one  dwell- 
ing surrounded  by  gardens,  which  its  proprietor  has  had 
the  questionable  taste  of  painting  canjiry  yellow.  From 
the  garden  pales  to  the  roof,  iTicluding  the  shutters,  all  is 
yellow.  Another,  at  some  distance,  is  painted  a  delicate 
lilac. 

March  21. 

Sot  out  again  from  Philadelphia  for  Baltimore.  It  is 
superb  weather.  I  have  engaged  Madam  \'ariani,  an 
American  soprano,  for  a  week.  She  is  mairied  to  Edward 
Ilort'man,  a  talented  pianist,  and  biother  to  Eichard  Hoff- 
man. 

Behrens  is  reading  one  of  '  Dwight's  jtapers.'  I  turned 
hastily  away,  having  resolved  never  to  read  that  })ai>er 
again.'  An  honest  press,  enlightened  criticism,  never 
wounds  mo,  even  when  they  notice  my  weaknesses  and  my 
defects;  but  'Dwight's  paper'  is  the  reservoir  of  every 
little  bilious  envy,  of  every  irritating  impertinence,  of  all 
sickly  spleen,  which,  under  the  form  of  anonymous  corre- 
spondence, gives  the  writers  the  small  comfort  of  injuring 
all  those  who  give  umbrage  to  their  mediocrity,  and  enable 
them  to  conceal  themselves  behind  the  column  of  the 
chief  edijor,  D.,  waiting  for  the  passage  of  the  object  of 
their  envy,  and  then  hurling  at  him  with  an  edifying  uni- 
formity tlieir  little  bladders  filled  with  gall.  Theii"  spite 
uicreases  from  the  small  effect  of  their  bombardment.  The 
doctor  oftera  something  analogous  in  his  mode  of  cure. 


i 


244 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


When  the  blooa  i>.  vitiate.1,  is  oorrnpte(J,  when  mnHor  ha^ 

The  nS  oHMva.  generally  felt,  and  'Dwight's  paper  has 
been  just  the  thing. 

E,i  route  for  Baltimore.     Our  car  is  filled  with  rory 
,.o£'  «^di^r;  who  sing  sonp;  smelling  ako  of  tlu.  d.mj 
wl  \  l-.>v      AVo  do  not  at  first  pay  any  attention  to  it,  but 
;    tu  An  to  he  viy  disagreeable.     One  beguis  to  smoke 
t  en    1  sc"  ond-a  third  imitates  him.     AVe  ask  them  to 
^  ^.Ab^STiVom  it  on  aceount  of  ^I-^- ^^^^^iiJll'^: 
;-niin.r  l-idv  who  accompanies  her,  to  whom  tie  smoke  is 
iSaleea    e     They  haaten  to  let  ns  kno^^^wltha  crowd 
^%ZL  taken  W  the  Waekguanl  s  die  lonary    lu^ 
we  are  no  eentlemcn;  that  these  are  no  ladies  ;  that,  being 
:;S;  t4.have  a'  ^gf^ o  do  -  J^^^^^ 
JlSt  i:«  tC  ^^;^-X4  soh^rs  in  the  c.r 
commencecl  whistling,  screaming,  and  howling,  after  the 
m™  of  the  Chinese,  or  of  savages  when  they  w  sh    o 
bCw 'heir  indomitable  courage.     An  oflicer  present  pru- 
dentlv  Sained  from  hitertering-for  many  reasons     His 
firi  (w  ich   I   consider  bad,  he   gave  us  when  we  ai> 
loi  Vn  hV^  is  that  they  arc  soldiei-s  on  furlough,  and 
r  hP  L     hanily  a  ri'l-ht  to  control  them.     The  second 
Si  h  he    idm  tgh-e  '^,  but  which  I  confide  in  secret  as 
iii^^^^^^^^^^^  tL  -1^-W  bottle  which  lor  t^v^  hcnir 

has  eole  round  in  the  vicious' circle  of  our  her  es  has 
Vdf  manv  drinking  stations  on   his   lips,  and  that  an 
officer  woldd  be  unwelcome  to  reclaim  an  authority  which 
is  .Irowned  in  a  flood  of  spirits. 

'^  We  Avill  do  whatever  we  pleas  ;  these  worrts  souna 
in  mvearT  I  acknowledge  that  I  was  choked  with  anger- 
.S'reible  anger,  becluse  it  had  to  be  mute  like  right 
1  ctXSe  force?  To  be  obliged  quietly  to  Bubmit,  when 
vou  know  that  you  have  the  right  on  your  side,  is  the 
iardest  thiiig  in  the  world,  and  1  experienced  it  at  that 
momeut. 


I  LOVE  DA L TIMORE. 


245 


hen  in«i+tor  has 
nxd  huiDonrs  by 
sical  profession, 
iinity  and  envy, 
ts  bad  hnmours. 
ght's  paper'  has 


illed  with  Tory 
^o  of  tho  eternal 
tention  to  it,  bnt 
begins  to  smoke, 
iVo  ask  them  to 
m  Variani  and  a 
)ni  the  smoke  is 
,\v,  with  a  crowd 

dictionary,  that 
dies ;  that,  being 

pk'ase,  and  they 
more  remarkable 
nkliers  in  tlie  car 
:)wling,  after  the 
len  they  wish  to 
[ftcer  present  pru- 
any  reasons.     His 
lis  when  we  ai> 
on  furlongh,  and 
lem.     The"  second 
onfide  in  secret  as 
ich  for  two  honrs 
f  our  heroes,  has 
lips,  and  that  an 
u  authority  which 

these  words  sound 
oked  with  anger— 
)e  mute,  like  right 
y  to  sul)mit,  when 
I  your  side,  is  the 
erienced  it  at  that 


Concert  at  Baltimore.  The  hall  hardly  holds  five  or  six 
linndred  pei-sons.  I  love  Baltimore.  I  love  its  ])eople.  I 
am  assured  that  they  are  St'ccssionists,  but  I  do  not  wish  to 
know  anything  about  it,  and  have  no  right  to  speak  but  of 
that  which  they  have  let  me  know — the  warmth  of  their 
friendship,  and  the  constancy  witli  which  they  keep  their 
apprei-iation  of  me  as  an  artist.  Tiesides  at  Baltimore  they 
lo\e  the  arts.  They  sing  more  there,  and  l)etter,  than  in 
niany  of  tlie  largo  cities^if  the  United  States.  The  pro- 
fessoi-shiii  of  the  [>iano  is  rei»resented  there  by  artists  of 
great  talent,  who  love  me  (()  vara  avis!),  and  whom  I  love. 
O  Baltimoreans,  my  friends,  may  you  some  day  forget  our 
misfortunes ! ! 

March  22. 

Concert  at  Washington.  On  the  front  row,  my  friend, 
the  Swedish  Minister,  Count  Pieper. 

March  23. 

Been  by  carriage  to  Alexandria.  Roads  cut  up.  Deso- 
lation everywhere.  I  have  ol)tained  a  permit  from  the 
provost-marshal  to  go  and  return  the  same  evening  by  the 
Virginia  shore.  _  Concert  at  Alexandria ;  quieter  than  tlie 
last ;  many  sentinels  have  mounted  guard  in  the  passages, 
and  hiive  even  sat  down  with  the  audience,  to  suppress  the 
noise  should  there  be  any.  We  set  out  again  immediately 
after  the  concert.  In  the  first  carriage  with  myself  were 
Maflam  "\'ariani,  Ilotfman,  and  his  mother.  In  the  second 
carriage  came  Strakosch,  Behrens,  Carlo  Patti,and  Firmiu. 
When  all  at  once  these  words,  "Halt!  who  goes  there V" 
the  password!  and  tlie  click  of  a  gun  reached  us  with  a 
clesirness  of  sound  which  was  increased  by  the  darkness 
which  surrounded  us,  striking  us  with  an  emotion  (I  must 
confess  it)  not  a  little  disagreeable.  We  show  ou.r  safe 
conduct,  and,  after  some  parley,  Ave  proceed.  A  half  an 
hour  glides  i)y.  The  weather  is  superb,  the  sky  starry, 
and  the  atmosphere  almost  warm.  The  moon  lightens  the 
two  banks  of  the  Potomac,  on  which  the  angular  lines  of 
the  fortifications  are  visible.  "  Halt !"  Again" that  devilish 
click.  Decidedly,  I  do  ncjt  like  travelliiig  in  the  midst  of 
the  avant  posts.     We  shttw  our  i)apers— they  are  right. 

21* 


^il 


246 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


"NVo  procood.  The  ofliocr  in  oonimand  of  the  pofii  keeps 
our  nut'e  eondiu'ts,  assuring  ti:^  tliat  they  are  no  longer  nei|eH- 
sary,  as  in  half  an  hour  we  will  he  at  the  hiidge  whieh 
crosses  the  Potomac  (u  hridge  three-(piarters  of  a  mile  lone); 
it  leads  into  Washington.  At  the  iniddle  of  the  bridge 
we  are  stopped  by  an  untimely  sentinel.  Unfortunately, 
our  safe  conducts  remain  hehind  us.  The  chief  of  the  [lOst 
arrives.  Impossible  to  pass,  "  it  is  our  orders."  "We  shall 
have  to  return  to  Alexandria ;  hut  the  situation  on  that 
side  is  scarcely  more  favourable.  AVe  have  no  permission 
to  enter  Alexandria  by  night,  and  avc  shall  he  obliged  to 
remain  on  the  road  until  daylight. 

Max  8trakosch,  who  has  ffot  out  and  has  gone  on  before 
to  confer  Avith  the  commander  of  the  post,  losing  patience 
at  this  jtiece  of  obstinacy,  let  escajio  an  energetic  exclama- 
tion in  the  language  of  the  '  Vaterland.'^  0  good  luck!  the 
sergeant  is  a  German.  He  loves  music  jjcrhaps,  and  the 
end  of  Carlo's  violin  case  that  sticks  outside  the  coach  door 
convinces  him  of  our  innocence  and  peacefulness.  He  jab- 
bers in  German  with  his  comjiatriot  8trakosch,  and  the  end 
of  it  is  that  we  pass,  after  (for  form  only)  the  brave  warrior 
has  examined  our  countenances  by  placing  his  lantern  under 
our  noses. 

March  24. 

Concert  at  "\Vashington.  The  President  of  the  United 
States  and  his  lady  are  to  be  there.  I  have  reserved  seats 
for  them  in  the  tirst  row.  The  Secretary  of  State,  Mr. 
Seward,  accompanies  them.  Mrs.  Lincoln  has  a  very  ordi- 
nary countenance.  Lincoln  is  remarkably  ugly,  but  has  an 
intelligent  air,  and  his  eyes  ha\Ta  a  remarkal>le  expression 
of  goodness  and  mildness.  After  an  encore  I  played  iny 
fanUisia,  '  L'Union,'  in  the  midst  of  great  enthusiasm.  Lin- 
coln does  not  wear  gloves.  I  played  very  badly,  and  -was 
furious  against  myself,  which,  however,  did  not  prevent 
many  of  my  friends  from  coming  to  congratulate  me  on  my 
success.  Giie  of  them  Avho  Avas  present  at  the  iirst  concert 
(at  Avhich,  by-the-bye,  I  played  very  Avell)  said  to  me,  "Well 
and  good,  you  are  in  the  vein  to-night,  for  at  the  first  eon- 
cert  one  saw  that  }ou  Avere  badly  prepared," 


LIEVTENAyr-GENERAL  GliAST. 


247 


the  pofit  keeps 

no  longer  neces- 

le  biidire  wliieh 

■(ofa  mile  lone:); 

le  of  the  bri«lgo 

Untbrtuimtely, 
chief  of  the  [lost 
lers."  We  shall 
ituation  on  that 
.e  no  permission 
all  be  obliged  to 

IS  gone  on  before 
t,  losing  patience 
lergetic  exelama- 
)  g"oo(l  luck !  the 
perhaps,  and  the 
le  the  eoaeh  door 
ulness.  He  jab- 
iseh,  and  the  end 
the  brave  warrior 
his  lantern  under 


March  24. 

nt  of  the  United 
ivc  reserved  seats 
ry  of  State,  Mr. 
\  has  a  very  ordi- 
,'  ngly,  but  has  an 
rkal>le  expression 
core  I  played  my 
nthusiasm.  Liu- 
y  badly,  and  ^\'as 
did  not  prevent 
atulate  me  on  my 
t  the  iirat  eonc  ert 
said  to  me, "  Well 
>r  at  the  first  eon- 
d." 


Godl  Friday,  March  25. 

Took  the  railroad  to  return  to  Baltimore,  ainl  met  there 

my  excellent  and  eonstuiit  friends,  Mrs.  li and  her 

daughter. 

March  26. 

Concert  at  Washinsjton.  Crowded  from  toj)  to  bottom — 
everyplace  taken.  liientenant-General  Grant,  and  all  his 
statt'i  were  present,  Gi-ant,  the  most  fortunate  of  all  our 
generals,  is  a  small  man,  of  ordinary  appearance,  slendi'r, 
modest.  He  has  taken  more  than  one  hunctred  thousand 
Itrisonei-s,  and  captured  tive  hundred  cannons  in  two  year^ 
and  a  half.  The  title  of  Lieuten;T;  1-General,  which  has 
just  been  decreed  to  him  by  the  government,  is  at  the  least 
equivalent  to  Marshal  (of  France).  We  have  never  luul 
but  three  lieutenant-generals:  the  first  was  Washington, 
the  second  Scott,  after  his  fortunate  Mexican  cam[)aign",  and 
the  third  Grant. 

Madam  Variani  sang  'The  Star  Sjiangled  Banner,'  eacii 
stanza  of  which  was  applauded  to  the  skies,  and  encored. 
The  enthusiasm  nevertheless  is  confined  to  the  gallerv 
filled  with  soldiers  ;  the  parterre,  the  boxes,  and  orchestral 
stalls  abstain  from  demonstration.  You  are  not  ignorant 
that  Washington  is  of  very  doubtful  loyalty,  and  that  lier 
most  inrtueutial  families  sympathize  with  the  South. 


Easter  Snnd.y    March  27. 

■•o>.\  for  Balti- 
t  my  good 


It  is  most  beautiful  weather.  I  set  out  ag 
more  at  half-past  seven  P.  M.,  and  arrived 
friends,  the  Curletts,  at  ten  o'clock. 

March  28. 

Left  for  Ilarrisburg.  For  seven  years  I  have  endeavou  red 
eight  or  ten  times  to  give  a  concert  at  Ilarrisburg,  and  every 
time  I  have  been  prevented  by  some  unforeseen  circum- 
stance. You  will  perhaps  recollect  that  last  year  he  Con- 
federates invaded  Pennsylvania  at  the  time  announced  tor 
my  concerts,  and  that  on  the  day  I  arrived  at  IFarrisbiirg, 
the  avant  guard  of  the  Secessionists  was  only  a  few  hours 
from  the  city,  and  the  concert  was  put  off  incletinitely. 


r 


248 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 


Harrisbi-ro,  March  28. 
Car.ital  (scat  of  govcnnncnt  of    i'ennsvlvania).    ^^^'IJ 

'hJir  customs.  Its  houses  auil  pavemeuts  ot  hiick  au  c  Itan. 
Th  «  of  the  streets,  like  all  others  ^-^r;;y^:^ 
are  borrowed  from  the  vegetable  kmLnlom-Uiei.}  htua, 
A  rZa  StU,Walnut  Stl^et,  ete  Tf^c  c.i>vtc>U  -  ;-  -- 
arc  two  large  halls  for  the  legislative  bodies,  is  a  inggau  1> 
mo.  uincS  cut  stone  and  bricks,  surmounted  by  a  cui-la 
TcSed  position  in  the  middle  of  a  green  lawn  gives  it 
SI  ccr+ain  air  of  grandeur.  .,    i.„..„„ 

"The  concert  t'akcs  place  in  ^e  court-house,     ^^^ytue 

wishes  to  install  the  , piano  on  the  P^f,  ^^dS  s  sent 

o'clock  but  the  court  is  in  session,  anil  the  Judge  lias  sen i 

won  tc'>  him  to  wait  an  hour.    The  hall  is  i.retty,  and  my 

Tno      isbelow  the  J  udge's  seat.    The  audience  is  charni- 

i     I  observe  in  it  some  of  those  rose  and  lily  complexions 

oKhich  our  ladies  have  the  privilege,  and  which  I  denounce 

to  the  artists  who  follow  me,  as  being  those  ^vhlch  trouble 

the  soul  while  you  are  playing..    They  "J^^f  ^-u  i  .^y  al- 

notes,  and  give  a  suppressed  ^V^^^^very  tinie  that    oui  im 

agination  evokes  their  charming  images,     ihe  hotel  i^  ex 

cellent.  March  29. 

I  iust  woke  up,  calling  for  help.  Civilization  is  outraged 
hy  .  Iwirc'ustonAo  which  we  «ul'""V  "T  n.^cn 
kind  of  cowardice  which  we  exhibit  in  regard  to  all  ancient 
u  acet^an  abominable  custom  which  lacerates  the  ea.--I 
snefkVtlic  gona.  What!  I  am  of  my  own  tree  will  in  a 
Kuo  e  o/airthe  privilegesof  hosj.itality  and  I  must 
submit  to  tlil  unmerciful  discipline  which  condemns  me,  by 
a  barbarous  fashion,  to  be  deprived  ot  my  s kep 

A  reo-imcnt  of  veterans  are  passing  under  m>  \"}f^".^\^; 
I  fm  told  that  for  three  days  they  have  been  figt^ting 
front  of  the  army  of  the  Potomac.    I  took  notice  yestei  da} 
at  a  s  ati^n  of  Lie  fortifications  improvised  with  trunk 
of  tree    and  a  block-house,  built  since  the  invasion  ot  last 
veai      I  took  avvalk  through  the  streets  and  recogiuze 
£  charming  young  girl  who  applauded  me  so  much  la.t 

'The  world  behind  the  scenes  is  all  in  a  flurry  on  account  of 


REJECTED  CRITICISM. 


249 


isBfRo,  March  28. 

ylvania).  Well 
Lt  lias  preserved 
f  bru'k  are  elean. 
u  reiuisylvania, 
—Cherry  Street, 
»it(tl,  where  there 
•s,  in  a  niggardly 
ited  hyaeiiiiola; 
jcn  lawn  gives  it 

ouse.  My  tuner 
bnn  about  tour 
e  Judge  has  sent 
8  pretty,  and  my 
udience  is  charin- 
L  lily  coniplexiona 
wh'ieh  I  denounce 
ise  which  trouble 
ike  you  play  false 
inie  that  your  inv 
The  hotel  is  ex- 

Marcli  29. 

zation  is  outraged 
»mit  through  that 
irard  to  all  ancient 
x-erates  the  ea>; — I 
own  free  will  in  a 
tality,  and  I  must 
h  condemns  me,  by 
ly  sleep. 

nder  my  windows, 
e  been  fighting  in 
k  notice  yesterday 
Dvised  with  trunks 
he  invasion  of  last 
ets  and  recognized 
1  me  so  much  last 

lurry  on  account  of 


an  adventure  of  which  Mademoiselle  Vestvali,  'the  superb,' 
as  the  i)lay  bills  annomice  her,  bus  been  the  heroine,  1  was 
going  to  say  the  victim,  if  the  buxom  jiroportions  and 
maseuliiie  (jiaracter  of  the  celel)rated  contralto  did  not 
render  it  impossible  that  she  should  ever  play  that  role. 
8he  has  smartly  chastised  the  two  fools  who  got  scotched 
by  her  rich  attractions. 
_  "lie  never  [ilays  but  his  own  nmsic."  Of  all  the  criti- 
cisms of  which  1  am  the  object  on  the  part  of  tlie  impotent 
and  jealous  who,  like  thorns  and  barren  bushes,  encumber 
every  avenue  of  art  in  America,  I  avow,  that  this  is  the 
one  which  I  am  the  least  disposed  to  accept.  If  I  had 
never  been  able  to  compose,  no  doubt  that  the  jioorest  of 
nmsieal  pretenders  who  had  mamifacturcil  a  polka  or  a 
valse,  would  have  thrown  it  in  my  face  that  I  ])laye<l 
only  the  nuisic  of  othera.  If  my  comi)osition,4  had  tailed 
in  originality,  "they  are  copies,^'  woulil  not  have  failed  to 
have  Ijeen  said;  but  I  compose,  and  what  I  compose  is 
unfortunately  my  own,  and  further,  the  jiublie  seem  to 
like  my  music;  hence  their  rage.  I  understand  it,  but 
what  I  cannot  understand,  is  that  after  taking  a  great  deal 
of  trouble  to  find  fault  with  me,  they  make  that  a  crime 
in  me  which  really  is  a  merit.  It  is  the  cunning  of  tJie 
fox — unlortunately  one  of  that  ainmal's  an.-estors  was 
guilty  of  the  same  thing  with  a  vine  of  our  acquaintance, 
and  suice  then  we  have  heKl  him  in  slight  estimation. 

Sometimes,  in  my  moments  of  dist-ouragement,  I  feel 
what  the  white  man  felt  in  the  midst  of  negroes,  when  he 
was  disconsolate  because  he  Avas  white  and  liad  not  a  fiat 
nose.  I  begin  to  regret  having  received  from  God  the 
afilicting  gift  of  being  able  to"  create.  AVliy  cannot  I 
enjoy  in  all  the  plenitude  of  its  glorious  privilege  the 
right  of  criticism,  and  of  being  able  to  bark  at  those  who 
compose?  Criticism  in  these  cases  is  so  much  sweeter.  If 
Thackeray  was  lecturing  to  you  would  you  comi)lain  that 
he  gave  you  Thackeray,  and  would  it  not  be  absnrd  if  he 
recounted  to  you  the  [lassages  of  Handet  or  Othello  \\hi<-h 
any  actor  could  recite  to  you?  Perhaps  they  could  recite 
it  better  than  Thackeray ;  would  you  conclude  from  that, 
that  Thackeray  l-ad  less  talent?  Xo,  certainly,  because  a 
vulgar  mind,  po  messing  no  peculiar  physiognomy,  no  strongly 


i! 


1 ; 


'  ii 


250 


NOTES  OF  A  I'lAMST. 


inarkod  character, can  accommodate  himself  ^o  every  fashion, 
while  ho  who  has  heeii  east  in  an  orijrinal  mould  cannot  aluU- 
eato  his  iiidividnalitv,  <»r  that  which  jjives  him  siiju'rionty, 
in  onU'r  to  reduce  himself  to  the  level  of  the  hrst  comer 
who  k  owi-  how  to  read  and  has  a  voice  sutftcieiitly  loud  to 
m&h  limself  heard.     Do  you  wish  to  insinuate  that  the 
'\\Mri  are  superior  to  all  which  we  accomi)lish  i     (iranteil, 
Jvn  !h,    dcswhat  I  reserve  to  myself  to  ask  of  you  some 
*>tiir..r  u.y  what  you  understand  hy  the  classics  this  con- 
vi-nient  c'    '  with  which  you  knock  on  the  head  all  those 
who  unnoy   you,  I  should  like  to   know  it',  hecause  the 
apple  is  a  fruit  less  delicate  than  the  i.ineapple,  you  woul.l 
wish  that  there  should  he  no  apples?     Jierhoz  told  me  that 
the  originality,  the  suhtlc  retinement  ot  a  special  talent, 
could  only  he  appreciated  in  very  old  societies.     It  we  are 
vet   to   lu-oclaim   an  art   and  to   form   our   taste,  then  i 
understand  that  you  would  like  hetter  a  tame  interpreta- 
tion of  consecrated  chefs-(V(tuvrc,  than  an  original,  which 
is  not  yet  consecrated  and  whose  place  m  art  you  dare  not 
vet  desi'niate.     I  continue  the  comparison  I  bcLran.     llic 
Consecrated  ehcfs-iVinivre  are  the   roast   heel,   Ics    grosses 
piars  dc  resistance,  on  which  the  people  must  be  nourislied, 
who  hegin  to  feed  at  the  hanciuet  of  civilization,     lint 
wherefore,  when    they   are    sufiiciently   fortihed,   should 
YOU  refuse  them  the  little  dainties  of  the  dessert,  par- 
ticularly if,  in  place  of  being  insipid  and  indigestible,  they 
seem  to  stimulate  your  taste  and  refresh  your  palate  dulled 
and  overheated  by  too  rich  food?     Have  you  comp  amed 
that  Rachel  was  only  great  in  the  tragedies  ot  Corneille  and 
Kaeine?     Have  you  denied  her  .talent  because  she  avoids 
comedy?     We  all   know  that  Shakesi)eare  is  superior  to 
Mr.  De  Cordova;  nevertheless,  none  of  those  who  listen  to 
the  charming  lectures  of  this  witty  artist  conceives  that  it  is 
a  crime  in  him  to  give  us  his  own  instead  of  permitting 
himself  to  be  taken  in  tow  by  a  great  name  embalmed  by 
the   "-lory  of  two  or  three  centuries.    The  question  is 
reduced  to  this,  'all  apples  must  have  the  taste  of  pine- 
apples,' if  this  be  the  case,  'your  humble  servant,  1  am  not 
the  man  for  you.    I  do  not  undei-stand  that  art  is  like  a 
uniform  in  which  all  of  us  must  be  aligned  and  drilled 
like  Prussian  sergeants. 


LANCASTER,  VKSWA. 


251 


o  every  fiishion, 
ild  cannot  iilnli- 
liin  snjH'riority, 
tlu'  tirst  c-onKT 
Hi'ioiitly  loud  to 
innate  that  the 
lish'i  (i  ranted, 
sk  of  you  isonio 
a.ssii's,  this  con- 
0  head  all  those 

if,  heeause  the 
jiple,  you  would 
ioz  told  nie  that 
a  special  talent, 
'ties.  If  we  are 
ir  taste,  then  I 
tame  interpreta- 

original,  whieh 
iirt  you  dare  not 
n  I  began.  The 
beef,  ics  grosses 
list  be  nourished, 
ivilization.  But 
fortified,  should 
the  dessert,  par- 
indigestible,  they 
our  palate  dulled 

you  complained 
s  of  Corneille  and 
icaiise  she  avoids 
ire  is  superior  to 
ose  who  listen  to 
;onceives  that  it  is 
.'ad  of  permitting 
,me  embalmed  hy 

The  question  is 
the  taste  of  pine- 
servant,'  I  am  not 
that  art  is  like  a 
iscned  and  drilled 


There  are  some  individuals  who  oi.lv  Hke  dried  fruit; 
they  even  like  it  a  little  mouldy,  aixl  if  thev  tiinl  dust  in  it 
they  are  transjiorted.  The  fruit  in  llower,  tiie  perfume 
winch  ojiens  t<»  the  sun  and  l)etrays  a  voinitf  and  viiiorons 
irrowth,  'Fie  then,  ].ooh!'  aial  everv  fool  who  kiidws  no 
better,  cries  out,  Fie!  jiooh!  and  all  the  envious  and  im- 
l-otent,  who,  in  their  conscience  know  better,  join  in  the 
chorus,  so  well  that  the  poor  apple  tree,  that'  innoci'iitiv 
opens  Its  flowers  to  the  sim,  leaving  to  nature,  who  hall 
iiiade  It  a  tree  and  not  a  bush,  the  ripcninir  of  its  fruit,  finds 
Itself  wholly  Interdicted,  and  would  let  itself  dry  uj.  wit', 
chagrin,  if  it  did  not  feel  withui  a  conscience  stronirer  t!  u 
the  clamoring  of  the  fool,  the  envious,  and  the  iguoriuit. 

Lancaster,  Marc:    -k 

_  The  concert  was  very  pjood  last  evening.  The  '  ,u  1  i. 
like  all  the  other  IVnnsylvania  houses,  of  brick  witl"  wh'vi 
windows;  and  a  low  and  narrow  door.  In  the  arlour 
there  is  invariably  placed  horizontally  on  tlie  mai  i'<  o 
one  of  those  oblong  looking-glasses,  divided  into  three  com- 
partments, which  date  from  the  begiiming  of  this  century. 
}\'e  si'i-  around  us  old  family  [lortraits,  badlv  painted  but 
interesting  from  the  simiilicitv  of  their  details  and  their 
costumes  wliich  belong  to  the  last  centuiy.  One  fact  to  be 
noticed  is  the  remarkable  fecundity  of  the  fiimilies.  In 
Pennsylvania  the  carriages,  the  waiting-rooms  at  tlu?  stations, 
are  filled  with  ehubby-faced  childi-en.  The  population, 
although  American,  have  preserved  all  the  characteristic 
traits  of  the  Oiermanic  provinces,  the  large  shoes,  the  immense 
round  hats,  and  green  vests  with  doul)le  rows  of  gilt  but- 
tons, and  their  blue  or  yellowish  surtouts  with  oiormous 
skirts,  which  the  (ierman  peasants  have  the  exclusive  privi- 
lege of  wearing,  abound  here.  The  women  have  their  waists 
under  the  arms;  some  wear  an  iron  gray  horizontal  bonnet, 
like  that  with  which  the  (^lakeresses  nmffle  up  their 
heads  under  an  affectation  of  Christian  humility.  We  oh- 
served  at  the  station  an  emigrant  with  three  pairs  of  twins. 
Their  mannei-s  ai-e  generally  more  gentle  and  simple 
than  those  of  the  other  States  which  I  have  visited.  Tliere 
IS  less  luxury  and  a  kind  of  patriarchal  simplicity. 


% 


I 


il 


rf  ■  «■ 


::ii.1 


252 


NOTES  OF  A  PLlSrST. 


March  30. 


Loavo  nt  clin-on  o'clock  for  lIarriHl)ur<:. 

Alter  liiiviiit,'  lui.l  u  foretaste  of  spring  wo  nro  npiin  i>ro- 
cipitatcd  amid  tlio  rcifioiis  of  winter.  Duriiifi  tiie  wliolo 
wei'k  the  atniospliere  was  warm  antl  everything  green  was 
Hprouting  in  the  snn,  and  now  the  rain,  tlie  snow,  tlio 
hail,  ai:;l  the  -.vhole  (U-solate  train  of  a  season  m  whi  •li, 
despite  all  the  Northerners  say  of  it,  I  have  not  yet  Inrn 
able  to  fmtl  any  charm,  hnt  in  which,  on  the  contrary,  I 
constantly  ilis»-over  fresh  enemiis.  At  the  con.ert  thi» 
evening  the  (Jovernor  and  the  Secretary  of  State  \yere  pre- 
Hent.  "To-morrow  morning  I  leave  at  eight  o'clock  for  JJeth- 
lehem,where  1  givea  con<ert  in  theeveninjr.         _ 

Observation!  1  am  hound  to  state  that  here,  instead  ot 
wivinir '  man,'  they  say  'gentleman.'  The  young  clerk  at 
the  desk  in  ])ointuiuMis  out  to  the  waiter  sai<l,  "Show  these 
gentlemen  their  rooms."  In  the  AVes-t  they  invariably 
say  '  man.'  The  driver  no  more  speaks  to  us  as  'tvilo\ys, 
and  I  have  not  yet  heard  any  one  say  'show'  in  speukmg 

of  our  concerts.  „       i    ,.  ,        ■     • 

Decidedly,  although  a  little  behindhand,  reunsylvunm  is 
more  polite  thuii  some  of  her  brilliant  sisters. 

« 

March  31. 

Left  for  Bethlehem  at  eight  o'clock  in  the   morning. 
Behrens,  who  is  alwavs  hungry,  buys  a  dozen  oranges. 
He  complains  that  fruit  is  not  nourishing,  and  that  it  is 
two  hours  since  he  breakfasted,  and  what  a  breakiast . . 
^\<:  arrive  at  Bethlehem  in  an  hour;  it  is  a  very  I'i^/"- 
rcsque  village.     The  princii»al  street  runs  up-hill,  and,  like 
all  the   interior  towns  of  I'ennsylvauia,  it  looks  oldish 
and  quiet.     The  houses  are  low,  the  windows  and  doors 
narrow.     We  tinallv  found  the  village  hotel.     W  hat  most 
strikes  the  intelligent  tourist  who  visits  the  United  States 
to  seek  something  else  than  his  fortune,  is  the  absence  ot 
all  tradition,  everything  is  new;  everything  glitters  like 
new-made  furniture.     We  seek  in  vain  for  anything  whicli 
8].eaks  to  the  imasination  carrying  it  back  ot  the  present 
generation.     The  Villages  are  towns  in  miniature.     1  he  tar- 
mers'  wives  and  daughters  wear  crinoline  and  bonnets  with 
flowers.     Here,  at  least,  I  find  one  o.'"  those  good  old  taverns, 


-I»li«i 


THE  GOOD  OLD  TAVLIiX. 


258 


March  30. 

nre  ii;;uin  jirc- 
iijlC  tin-  wliolo 
iiiiT  irrrt'ii  \\i\n 
lie  Hiiow,  tlic 
«tn  ill  wlii'h, 
i  not  yi't  lu'i'ii 
10  contrary,  I 
.\  comrrt  tlii» 
•tatt'  W'.'n'  piv- 
•lofk  for  Jk'th- 

icro,  instead  of 
ounj;  clerk  at 
,  "  Siiow  tlu'so 
K'y  invariably 
Urt  as  'fvllows,' 
v'  in  speaking 

'cnnsylvunia  ia 


March  31. 

the  morning, 
ilozen  oranges, 
und  that  it  is 
,  a  breakfast ! ! 
s  a  very  iiietu- 
p-hill,  antl,  like 
t  looks  oldish 
ows  and  dnora 
il.  AVhat  most 
i  United  States 

the  absence  of 
iig  glitters  like 
inything  which 

of  the  present 
iturc.  The  far- 
id  bonnets  with 
ood  old  taverns, 


puch  as  oxistod  in  the  last  century.  'I'lie  master  and  mis- 
tress of  the  hotel  (two  good  f)ld  peojile)  come  to  receive  us 
on  the  jiorcli.     "  You  are  welcome,"   they  suiil  to  us. 

Magiiiliceiit  concert.  Tin'  hall  full.  Tlic  whole  villago 
was  jircsent.  Tlie  st'iuinary  was  represented  by  two  hun- 
dred and  Olid  pretty  young  girls.  The  pojiulation  is  wholly 
(lerman,  and  the  government  Moravian.  After  the  concert 
a  dance  at  the  hotel,     (t'harmiiig  yountr  gii'l  !) 

Carlo  is  decidedly  the  spoile<l  child  of  the  boarding- 
pchools.  All  the  young  girls  dote  on  liim.  lie  is  JK'sidcs 
a  <liarming  fellow.  1  have  to  write  my  autograph  hun- 
dreds of  times. 

I  have  forgotten  to  mention  tlie  Moravian  churcli,  in 
whose  interior  are  found  the  portraits  of  tlie  founders  of 
the  colony,  vvhieli  luive  countenances  impossible  to  describo 
— all  (k'rmans.  At  tlu-  coiu-ert  I  ivniarled  a  man  in  spec- 
tacles and  his  wite,  wbo  luuiched  all  the  time  and  never 
once  applauded.  I  wager  a  lumdred  to  one  that  ho  is  the 
jirofcssor  of  the  jdace!  1  have  visited  tin-  seminary,  which 
IS  suiierb.  There  are  two  hundred  and  twenty  scholars, 
divided  into  twenty  families  of  ten  scholars,  who  each  liavo 
their  halls  for  study,  their  overseers,  and  their  dormitories, 
Ro  disposed  that  they  are  constantly  under  the  eye  of  the 
master.  There  is  a  large  basin  of  running  water  in  which 
they  can  swim  in  summer.  I  have  heard  less  swearing  in 
Bethlehem  than  in  any  other  place  in  the  United  States, 
and  I  have  seen  fewer  drunkards  there.  This  gives  it  a 
place  in  my  memory — a  privileged  pli.ce  ;  the  horror  which 
I  have  for  drunkenness  not  being  ccpialled  except  by  that 
Avhich  Mr.  D.  has  for  my  music.  Another  thing  to  state, 
although  I  have  walked  all  over  the  town,  I  have  not  even, 
heard  once  the  '  Maiden's  I'rayer.'  Decidedly, "  Bethlehem, 
you  wish  to  make  a  conquest  of  me '.  I !" 


22 


2.U 


SOTES  OF  A  riAMST.^ 


(ilAlTKR  XIV. 

Li'FT  nt  ^i\'  '>\l(>ck,  iiccoinpim'u'il  l>y  tlic  liidios  at  tlu' 
licti-l.     We  i.rnv...l  at  Kastoi,  (twi'iitv-i'ight  inik's)  at  si'Vi-ii 
oVloi-k.    Tlu'V  I'oiiirlit  to  tret  iiitntlK'i'oucfrt-i-ooiii.     llu'liall 
liaK  nniv  fniir  hundred  mits,  and  tlicy  liavi'  Hold  nix  Imn- 
divd  tirki'ts.     /  /n//»  H,r  r<n,/,s  h  yd  //*.     The  aveiiiu's  aro 
(.Ixtnutc'd  hv  thuso  who  canu-  late  and  have  to  Htand(lur- 
iiw  the  eonc'ert.     Althonirh  they  have  [.lit  all  the  ehairs  ot 
the  nei-rhhonrhood  \\\  reiiiiisitioii,  mine,  whieh  was  l)etore 
the  i.iano,  has  luvn  taken  l.y  a  ,i,'entlenian  who  is  deternunet 
to  keep  it  without  wishin.<,Molte  <(.nvineed.  _  A  piece  ot  old 
theatre  curtain  Innii,'  on  crosswise  on  one  side  of  the  (.lat- 
ionn  conceals  ns  from  the  audience  when  we  do  not  have 
to  appear.     It  is  the  nrtists  romn.     We  have  ri'turned  to 
Bcthlelicni  with  the  hulies  and  irentlenien.     In  the  traui 
the  whole  conipanv  connnenced  sni«;in;<;  my  '  t'radle  Nuitr, 
I'atti  sin'nn<'-  a  hiLdi  tenor.     One  couple  who  were  sleepmi; 
Bent,  us  and  our  '  I'radle  Soni;'  to  all  the  .Icvils.    ^\  e  found 
cv»>rvl>odv  up  at  the  hotel  waitin.i;  for  us ;  and  the  younj; 
(rirls  fron'i  the  seminarv  haviuij  ohtained  permission  to  pass 
the  ni.Ldit  with  their  relatives  at  tliu  hotel,  they  danced  to 
a  lato  hour. 

April  2,  18G4. 

Left  nethlehem.  The  professor  of  the  place  and  some 
vomit;  r.<-ople  escorted  us  t(.  the  station.  1  ho  whole  semi- 
narv ^in  at  the  windows;  there  is  nothint;  to  he  seen  but 
Avaxin.'  handkerchiefs ;  as  we  descend  the  hill  the  younj? 
ladies  ascend  to  the  upper  stories  ;  the  dormer-windows  are 
soon  invaded.  The  road  makes  a  turn ;  a.irain  a  last  Ook 
east  behind.  I  perceive  a  very  small  white  point  wljicli 
waves  above  the  to),  of  the  roofs.  I  wave  my  ham  kerclnet 
hi  answer  to  this  unknown  little  friend  (may  God  bless  her); 
no  more— nothiui;  more.  . 

At  the  station  we  saw  the  country  contingent  oi  con- 


1 


77//;  <,i:i{.\tA.\'  cnxsciufT. 


2:)r> 


ic  ladies  at  tlio 
luik's)  at  si'vi'ii 
roein.    Tlu-liall 
o  n(»l(l  six  liiin- 
riio  avt'iiui's  arc 
o  to  Htaiitl  (lur- 
all  till'  fliairs  of 
hich  wart  lu't'ore 
lio  irt  (U'tiTiiiiiuMl 
A  iiii'ct'  ot'olil 
side  of  tlio  |ilat- 
wc  do  not  liavo 
ave  ri'tui'iR'd  to 
II.     Ill  tlu'  train 
y  '  CradU' Soiit!:,' 
iio  wi'iv  slocpiiij; 
•vilrt.    We  found 
;  and  Uie  yoniijj; 
ji'inirtsioii  to  ])asrt 
,  they  dunoed  to 


April  2,  1SG4. 

'  jilaco  aial  wnno 
The  whole  seini- 
>;  to  he  Keen  hnt 
le  hill  the  yoiintj; 
mer-windowrt  are 
iirain  a  last  look 
liite  jioint  whieh^ 
my  handkeivhief 
iiyGodhlessher); 


Dntingent  of  con- 


B(Ti|its  leave.  A  sad  siufht  1  Some  of  these  |inor  yoiimr 
men  hliHtered  and  saiic,  whilst  otlicrs  luivc  found  in  iluir 
tla-k  the  lieees.siry  eoiiniire  for  M'|iaiatioii.  The  jri">iitest 
numlMT,  those  who  have  sistern,  a  mother,  chililr  ii.  a  wife, 
wh(»m  they  leave  hehiiid  them  with  a  vairiie  and  very  dis- 
tant hope  of  s.'rinir  apiin,  hctray,  in  s|iite  of  American 
Btoirism,  their  emotions  hy  u  >(lod  hiess  you,'  'do  not  try,' 
'one  more  kisH.'  Some  veterans,  hayonet  on  their  jfiiiis, 
Hlirround  the  detaehineiil.  A  (fei'inaii  eoiiHiiipt  ohtailis 
leavi-  U)  remain  a  few  pates  hehintl,  and  murmurs  wortln  of 
consolation  in  the  ear  ttf  ii.s  pot>r  wife,  anil  his  little 
dailirhter  stretthes  herself  up  on  tiptoe,  while  tryiiiir,  to 
kiss  him.  lie  rejoins  the  tietaclinitnt,  and  I  see  him  Miiok- 
iiij;  his  pipe  with  aswairtrer;  he  appears  thouuht  less.  The 
train  starts;  the  pt)or  man  leans  Mit  the  tloor  to  see  his- 
wife  oiiee  mt)re.  Adieu  to  all  hra!;t;'ni;  I  Nature  at  the 
last  moment  has  asserted  her  ritrhts.  "■  hear  Catherine," 
Haid  he  with  hrt)ken  vi:iee,  "(iod,  (ioil  hIess  ♦lu't-I"  A 
lari;e  tear  eoursetl  tlown  his  cheek.  He  ean  lauirh  no  more, 
nor  these  his  eoiiipaniitiis.  AVitf— witl'- witf— the  en<::ine 
has  startetl.  The  ert)wd  give  three  hurrahs!  I  loiinii,  on 
retiirninu;  to  the  hotel,  poor  Catherine  weepiiiLT  in  a  eorner, 
her  heatl  hitl  in  her  apron,  with  her  little  tlauuhler.  ''  How 
many  ehildivn   have  ytui'.'"    I    asketl    her.     "Ktair,"   she 

f;eiitly  answereil  me.  (Jotl  knows  if  my  heart  did  not 
deed  at  the  j)ifture  of  ijcrief  anil  pain  which  I  foresaw  ft)r 
this  ]K)or  liimily.  1  slippetl  some  mt»ney  into  the  chilli's 
hantl  and  stole  away  without  lookini;  hehind  me,  thinkinif 
on  the  imprescriptihle  ri<i-ht  of  those  fatherless  tiimilies 
upon  us  all  who  are  in  possession  of  the  supertiiiities  of 
life,  thanks  to  the  iKwition  in  which  it  has  pleased  Gtxl  to 
jilaco  us. 

Arrived  at  I'altimore.     I  am  with  my  good  friends  the 
Cnrletts.      Sunday    [   was    at   high    mass   and    heard    a 

delicious  'Agnus  l)ei'  of  Marst  liner  sung  hy  .Mrs.   15 . 

The  reli'  ions  music  of  Weher  resenihles  some  of  the  opera 
airs  of  1,  'ssini.  The  sermon  is  poor  anil  the  preacher  has 
a  most  jnonouneetl  Irish  accent.  An  oltl  maid.  Miss  II. 
(near  a  saint),  who  in  the. choir  does  police  duty  over  those 
in   atteiiduiKc,  and  easts,  es]teeially  on  the   young   girls. 


T 


256 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAXIST. 


iV.f c'nlS^a:^  i.-  tloL  s„,,r  as  the  grcc,  gmr-of  the 

'"'i!^;il,.rk  on  l.oar.1   tl.o  Morgan.      Arrive  at  Fortress     _ 
,,':X^'  \,,"    14.    We  lan,l,onr  steamer  not  going  any 
fXr.an     t  .o  oatl>  of  Melity  to  fl.e  governn>eat  mu  t 
ill    .1,,,  ,11  those  who  leave  here  tor  Norfolk,     toitj 
^?.  'u^n  ri  L  o*b-  va,-eh<,u«..s  for  military  stoi-e,,  and 

and  the  matter  is  finislied. 

Norfolk,  "Virginia,  April  14. 

Mamliv     I  wished  to  purchase  a  note-book,  and  lor  this 
pur p^;  entei. d  a  shoeXre,  in  ^J-  -J^-y  J^J^^'f 

sins 'rS  tta'S  (W Gri"), r<-i'-,;,'L-* 

Vi^      Vi  '    '!..nlf  Opc,  Cloches  da  Monastere,'  and  all  the 

SiSpted  to  the.  aro^su.1;  thoy,  pro  neo^tn^one 

tlik"rutl°  *  'tnAled\or"r moment,  thhiking  tliat  I 
Sdi«d  the  words '  The  Maiden's  rrayer  '•,  it  was  only  a  false 
K™      Norfolk  which  had  six  years  ago  its  nopiilation 


I 


it^iiiiW&Mn*i  L  Tl^«?*"  ■ 


r/^ 


"THE  BATTLE  CRY  OF  FREEDOM:^ 


257 


part  -whioli  slie 
,  ami  puts  on  a 
19  caught  Mary 
sings  the  alto  in 
ions),  staring— a 
inie,  and  oomoa 
twenty  years  of 
•os!  s])oken  with 
tury  of  virginal 
;eu  grapes  .of  the 

rive  at  Fortress 
r  not  going  any 
government  must 
'  Xorfolk.  Fort- 
ilitary  stores,  and 
piled  up.  In  the 
ed  hefore  a  desk 
ine  of  them  reads 
r  handd  together, 

,  Virginia,  April  14. 

book,  and  for  this 
ndow  of  which  I 
k.     At  the  end  of 
ed  up  on  a  tahle ; 
;  also,  and  he  gives 
'  La  Californienne' 
Irisi)  polka,  'Last 
stere''  and  all  the 
:he  war—'  Do  they 
>t  weep,'  etc.     All 
:ouching,  but    the 
hey  produce  in  one 
rilo'  would  dressed 
>nt,  thinking  that  I 
''•jitAvasonlyafalse 
ago  its  population 
QV\  Xorfolk,  which 
al  and  Confederate 


armies;  Xorfolk,  ruined  finally,  deserves  to  be  spared,  and 
for  once  at  least  it  escapes  the  plague  of  the  '  Maiden's 
1  raver, 

'Tlie  Battle  Cry  of  Freedom.'  I  am  accustonied  to  ju(l.--e 
ot  tlnngs  l„r  myself  and  to  give  myself  but  little  troulHo 
about  tlie  (late  or  signature  of  a  piece  of  nuisic.  I  am 
aware  that  in  so  doing  I  manifest  my  perfect  ignorance  of 
the  rules  ot  respect  which  one  owes  to  one's  self,  and  that 
tlie  great  art-i)ropliets  will  shrug  their  shoulders  wiili  i)itv 
on  reading  tliis  confession  whicli  I  make  without  blushing, 
hardened  sinner  that  I  am,  but  what  do  vou  desire?  I 
Jove  better  to  diseover  in  my  chance  wand-rings  a  little 
unknown  flower,  huml)]y  conc-ealed  at  the  foot  ot'  a  thorny 
bush,tlian  to  be  the  infinitesi-ual  fraction  of  a  Icirion  whom 
traaitK.ii  makes  l)ear  arms  on  the  great  road 'of  routine 
betore  tlie  banner  of  a  miserable  chcf^rocacrc  consecrated 
by  luiuiy  generations  of  blind  adiuirers,  influenced  by 
prejudice.  "^ 

'The  Battle  Cry  of  Freedom'  is  this  obscure  flower  Ml.icli 
1  Jmve  discovered  on  the  heap  of  dirt  wliicli  the  iioetasters 
and  the  masun^tcrs  have  raised  at  the  foot  of  their 
country  s  altar  since  the  war  began.  I  know  that  many 
^Ti  li ^.T^.  '""^  J"A'  Pi-ctousions  are  not  well  foun(le(l, 
lie  Lattle  Cry  ot  Freedom' being  very  popular;  and  tJ 
those  I  shall  reply,  that,  as  their  admiration  extends  to  a 
crowd  ot  other  trifles  possessing  neither  poctrv  nor  melody, 
they  should  not  suppose  that  their  suttrages  can  be  flattJr- 
ing  to  an  author. 

lie  who  drinks  whiskey  with  pleasure  should  not  ven- 
ture Ins  opinion  upon  Tokay  wine. 

'The  Battle  Cry  of  Freedom'  ought  to  become  our 
national  air;  it  has  animation,  its  harmonies  are  distin- 
guished. It  has  tune,  rhythm,  and  I  discover  in  it  a  kind 
ot  epic  colouring,  something  sadly  lieroic  which  a  battle 
song  should  have. 

I'he  judgnient  of  certain  persons  is  like  slov/,  sluggish 
waters  winch  would  stagnate  and  grow  thick  with  imid 
It  canals  were  not  opened  for  them  which  they  have  not 
the  ioree  to  make  for  themselves.  The  )udgment  of  these 
people  IS  at  the  mercy  of  tashionable  prejudices,  of  routine, 
and  particularly  of  ideas  consecrated  by  time.    It  is  from 

00* 


2-3  NOTES  OF  A  PrANIST. 

mssmmm 

it  folk  of  itself,  bat  when  ''/»  »  «;^:;;™\;/'   u;^    ,  -U 

plant.    Ihej    '     "„  ,1,  „n.,.clv  iuv  its  flowed  oiion,  iiiul 
solcitrak',  mill  sec  "Hli  S''^''^  J'V, ,,,  .,    „„„,|  lliing  to 

i:irsS!Sf''^.::o;:is:;?...o...a.co.,.ti.ca, 

CTaul  again  into  their  »™™»';,  .,,  ;,  „,,,  „ost  inn.iroa 
Beethoven,  taken  a  »^J  f  X  ,mn>ose»  l-est  for  tl.o 
an,„ns  ^-^C^i^^J  ek^^^  whlli  he  combines 
orehe«tra.  the  '""'""'S.'  ,  ,„  ,i,„  orchestra  as  he  has 
on  ,,aror  a.-e  always  rcateeJ  «    <^^^^  ,,„  ,.„„,  , 

ooncervc,  l>en>  A»  ^ ;»"?;, F^^  „f  „„'  i,„emge,Ke  m 
low  luetlioi'iit},--!"*^  'Y  ,  1,^,  ,1,,,^  PxH'tliovcn  over  dm. 
our  day.,  writes  V;^"^\^'  ^   ^^ !f !^\.,*^X  a    about  to  exolain.? 


BEETHOVEX  AND  THE  PfAXO. 


•2J9 


the  roguos,  ilic 
sot"  whirh  thoy 

I  all  those  euvi- 
lyjiotlu-^ical  air, 
mr."  I  low  dv- 
•hom  you  envy  1 
iity  that  1   have 

In-  (U«agreeal)le 
imply  a  scandal, 
h!  what  aAviml- 
like  a  hot-house 
or  it  with  tender 
lowers  open,  and 
a   good  thing  to 
Happens  to  these 
it  happened  to  I 
lask  falling  ott"  at 
ion  which  should 
ic's,  died  poisoned 
is  what  the  Span- 

lid  has  sung  again 
igs  Avhen  he  is  not 
;  and  the  immense 
loli  has,  all  pulling 
leck  of  Mazzolini, 
IS  he  used  to,  have 
vhoUy  discomiited, 

i  the  most  inspired 
nposes  hest  for  the 
hic-h  he  eomhines 
rchestra  as  he  has 
le  piano  he  falls  he- 
my  intelligence,  in 
Beethoven  ever  did. 

II  ahout  to  exclaim? 
.'isrht  of  admiration 

Q  great,  and  it  is 
.toscehisfeehlcness. 
'ut  which  Beethoven 


hut  imperfectly  knew,  and  \\hieh  hesidcs  at  the  jicriod  he 
wrote  was  hut  the  embryo  of  the  piano  which  is  made  hy 
modern  manufacturers.  The  instrinueutation  of  tlii'  jiiano 
is  a  special  matter.  The  point  in  ipiestion  is  not  only  to 
have  ideas,  hut  to  know  how  to  adapt  them  to  the  piano, 
and  this  is  what  Beethoven  only  imiierfectly  knew.  The 
ideas  m  beautifully  and  so  marvellously  clothed  in  all  the 
sjilendoiir  or  all  the  tenderness  which  the  orchestra  affords 
him  in  his  profoundest  researches  are  clumsy  and  often 
tame  when  he  adapts  them  to  the  jiiano.  The  number  of 
formuhe  which  he  i)repared  for  the  j>iano  were  extraordi- 
narily limited,  and  in  many  passages  we  feel  what  he  has 
wish'e<l  by  perceiving  that  he  has  not  attained  what  he  de- 
sired. Many  of  the  eifeets  Avhich  he  combined  from  his 
knowledge  of  the  orchestra  have  failed  on  the  jiiano,  from 
iK)t  knowing  how  to  translate  them  into  the  peculiar  lan- 
guage of  this  instrument. 

Suppose  Raphael  engraving  his  pictures  himself  after 
having  paintecl  them.  The  lines,  the  contours  the  design 
of  them  would  always  he  pure,  the  first  conception  always 
inspired;  hut  the  execution,  the  details,  the  tints,  the 
shadows,  the  lights,  the  life  finally, — do  you  think  he  would 
have  ol)tained  them?  The  poorest  engraver  would  have 
succeedetl  better. 

Behrens,  my  accompanist,  has  just  gone  on  a  tour  of  dis- 
covery in  the  town.  He  has  made  the  acquaintance  of  tlic 
leader  of  the  orchestra.  The  jtoor  man  is  in  distress ;  he 
was  wishing  to  make  his  performers  play  in  my  honour  an 
overture  whicli  the  public  had  never  yet  heard,  hut  he  has 
had  to  give  it  up;  his  orchestra  being  com])osed  of  five 
nnisicians,  one  of  which  is  a  kettle  drummer'.!  The  poor 
man  was  distressed  at  the  idea  of  having  to  accompany  lue 
in  Weber's  concerto. 

Tncsrtay,  April  5. 

There  happened  to  me  yesterday  the  most  singular,  the 
most  incomprehensible,  nlost  disagreeable  thing  that  has 
happened  to  me  for  many  years.  After  dinner  I  went  down 
to  play  at  billiards.  Tlie  waiter  came  to  tell  mc  that  a 
gentleman  wished  to  speak  to  me  at  the  office.     I  told  the 


260 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


turncl,  sayu>^  that  the  g<^^'>t\™;^^^  ^l  tbun.l  mynelf  in 
and  wa.  waiting  tor  «»;; .,,^  ^^^^'i^".Ve  moustac-hcs,  in  onli- 
tb.  presence  ot  a,  ^^entk-nian  ^^^3   >    '^-\    .,^  Clark, and  ^vheu 

nar>-  dress,  who  ^«f  "J-^^.  f^;\";  ^ ;i:;;;no.  I  am  Captain 
I  asked  tor  you  ^^  ^^'f  {''"  I'tlJ^.ii  you  to  eomo  wlien  I 
Clark  I  tell  3;ou,  and      ^^  Um^^^        ,ne,  puttu.g  his  fist 

send  tor  you.       All  tui^  ^^iVp  .inouitv  of  a  Prussian  ser- 
ander  iny  nose   and  ^^•^^^\.  V^/"!^^^;?^^^^  used  in 

geant  repriman.lmg  a  ^"ou^cn  t      ^^^^^/^  J  tirat  he 

fneiitioning  his  luune  and  J;' ^^^^^^  '\\\','^,,'ayor  ot"  th.  town, 
^vas  one  ot' t^'^^^^'V'^'"  '^U\  1  i  iw  ttingly  some  serious 
,„,1  that  we  had  ^'^>"^"^^^  ^  f ^  •  "^  ^^ tJu  Ine  what  was  the 
offeiue.  I  humbly  ^^^"^f  S ^,,^Xa ^  lady  in  rl,e  dining- 
niatter.  "  You  have  just  ^^l^  .1  ^  r^^,^  accusation 
room,  and  I  wish  to  P^nus  i  you  h  r  it  ^,  ^^  ^  ^^^^ 

,vas  so  absurd,  and  so  ">;^;\«^|\j;^  ^;,,   m,,   an'     .Ntadam 
aiiK.l  alone  at  ^;.  f  l^'^^tm.  f  win    to  replv,  an<[  t 
Bohrens,  that  I  did  not  ^no>^       at    «     1^  •  ^      ^^  ciark 
thou-ht  whicli  came  to  V^J^^"^  the  lu-t^om  ofabot^ 
ha.l  tl.ouglitbinisel.  akn  j^^^>t^ena  t  at  m^^    -...nltod  was  as 

tie  of  whiskey,  and  that  the  '»  '>  \,V})^„,  o.nxotc  when 
imadnary  as  the  .irmies  PJ^t  ^  f  -  l^^^, '  ^i.  ^k ,  supported 
he  foudit  against  the  wmdniiH..  e '  .1  ;^ "^^  ■  ^^  \^\^  that 
by  n.myotlier  valiant  ^^avnon.,  h  s  ■  ^  J;-^  «;^  -  ^^^^^  ^^, 
Iwas  only  -"^romm^- the^  la^K  ,  ^J.^^^^^^  ^J^,^,  that 
all  of  us  was  vPomt^v^  ■  ith  ^^-J^^^^  j,,,,,  to  show  him- 
be  wo.dd  punis"  lu,    c^  .     A  coK ,    ^  ^^^^^^^     ui  ,vai 

self,  a.  .led  m  tbo  ^ok-  ot  ^y^^f'  jj  window."  I  as- 
throw  him  and  -^^^'^f^J^J^  "ny  lady  at  the 
snred  the   ^aptain  that  1  had^^^^^  insulting^ 

table,  and  that  ^ff  des  I  ^Aas  not  m  t  e  i  ^^  ^^.^^^,^^  ^^^ 

ladies.     I   g'^ve  him  my  ^^old  to     1.  j  ^^^,., 

honour  is  not  worth  much.  I  do  "^t  ^  ^^^  ^  ^^^,  ^^  ^ 
known  you  for  twenty  y^^ ;  ^^^^^^  j''  U  iptaiu  I  would 
had  had  the  least  ;^";;;,;^!,i  \t  S^bJ^lities  of  crushing 
have  jumped  on  him  ^ '^"^  ^  '  "  '  >  i^^,,,,  niore  than  absurd 


"THE  CAPTAIN  CLAJiKS." 


261 


but  ho  poon  re- 
\\A\  ;<>  t'oiiie  in, 
tbun<l  myself  iii 
istuc'lics,  in  ordi- 
Clnrk,  and  when 
,     1  am  Captain 

0  conio  wlicn  1 
,  putting  his  fist 
'  II  Prussian  sir- 
phasis  he  used  in 

suppose  that  he 
lyor  of  thv  town, 
;iy  t«>me  serious 
me  what  was  the 
[y  in  t^io  dining- 
The  aH'cusation 
e  fact  t-  »t  I  had 
Mr.  an'     .Ntadam 
>plv,  and'  tlie  only 
[lilt  Captain  Clark 
10  lutt  torn  of  a  hot- 
ad  in.-ailtedwas  as 
[)ov,  Quixote  when 
n  Ci:  .v., supported 
ds,  sal  I  to  me  that 

that  ;  he  plaee  for 
a  closed  door),  that 
xious  to  show  him- 
iopotamus,^^"Iwill 

e  window."     I  i^''- 
n   any  lady  at  the 
3  habit  of  insult  mg_ 
"Your  w-ord  ot 
elieve  you.     I  have 
t  could  I  do  i     It  I 
he  captain  I  wouUl 
ibilities  of  crusluns; 
■u  more  than  absurd 
u  unmerited  uisnlt, 

1  whose  esteem  was 
e  I  was  wholly  igno- 


rant of.  In  the  mean  time  I  must  say  that  where  soldiers 
rule  is  not  a  good  i)lace  for  civilians,  particularly  if  they 
have  the  misfortune  to  pass  for  being  jiolite  and  men  of  the 
world.  There  is  nothing  of  which  we  are  more  jealous 
than  those  qualities  we  hear  praised  in  others,  and  which 
we  do  not  ourselves  possess.  The  Captain  Clarks  are 
numerous,  and  he  is  not  the  first  of  the  species  I  haN<!  met 
with,  although  I  am  jtleased  to  say,  that  no  one  has  yet 
e(pialled  h'un  in  brutality  and  rudeness.  However,  I  have 
since  learned  that  it  was  a  plot  got  uj)  beforehand  to  seek  a 
quarrel  with  me,  and  make  me  commit  some  excess  which 
might  cause  me  to  be  arrested,  and  driven  from  the  depart- 
ment. 

I'laycd  in  the  evening.  Poor  hall,  frightful  weal'cr, 
and  not  a  carriage  at  anv  price  if  there  was  one  in  the 
whole  town.  Sotdiers,  soldiers,  soldiers,  corps  de  garde! 
The  city  is  nothing  but  a  vast  corps  dc  garde.  Conquered 
country!     Oh!  the  sword! 

April  6. 

Third  concert,  not  the  worst  in  the  world  and  tolerably 
apiilaudod.  Patti  is  evideutlj'  the  fiivourite  here,  and  I  am 
not  astonished  at  it ;  it  is  iu>t  that  he  plays  better  than 
usual  (we  are  all  too  much  put  out  and  bewildered  in  this 
corps  de  garde  to  play  well),  but  because  I  never  in  juy 
life  played  so  badly.  I  am  irritated,  I  feel  my  heart  sAvelling 
w^ith  indignation  at  the  unjustifiable  attack  made  upon  nit, 
and  the  impossibility  of  justify  ingmyscH"  from  the  ]iositi(m 
in  which  I  am  plact'd  renders  me  miseral)le.  To  add  to  it 
the  stage  box  is  occupied  by  Captain  Clark  and  Colonel 
Giant-lciller,  who  wished  to  throw  us  out  of  the  window. 
All !  poor  Muse,  what  business  had  you  in  this  corps  de 
garde  t 

April  7 

Superb  weather.  The  ek^ments  seem  to  be  appeased  m  >\\ 
that  we  are  going  away.  At  eleven  o'clock  we  take  tie 
steamer  whicli  is  to  carry  us  to  Fortress  Monroe  in  an  1  >"ir 
and  a  half.  My  friend  Major  Darling  waits  for  me  at  the 
wharf  ill  an  ambulance  with  eight  seats.  We  have  u  rived 
at  the  fort.     The  ditches  are  one  hundred  and  eigh;^  [eet 


iDi 


262 


NOTES  or  A  PIASIST. 


,  .  f  .  lorn,  The  "•arn>oii  now  numlK'VS  three 
brcuul  and  nine  feet  '^  M'-  ^  ^  -  ^  thcnsand.  The  interior 
thousand  nie.»,<  ^'"f^""  "'  AVe  pas.  hofore  the  quarter- 
of  the  fort  is  a  small  tovvn.       >  c  ^^^^^^.^        .^^^^ 

general  inhahited  l,v    ";;;;;;  '^,     J  n's  in  a  small  yellow 

t;:g'one  hundred  and  iifty  cannons. 

1    ..^  ^^^^n  ovoni'iO"  eoneei't  has 
4     •      1    o+  P.nltimore,  -where  tlio  e^elu  i„ 

,,,;::^':i::\:i,l     Al"ay-  the  -n,c  chamnug  l«U,hc. 

April  9. 

i.    .;,-...,  l.vT  n  society  of  amate.irs 

AVas  rresoT.t  at  a  ^-^^^^^!\^^^]^lnte  the  taste 
^hoseainiiHto.l^i^alm^toyim^^^^^^  ^ 

andt<>innnn<>teeha  itj,t  I  e^c  >  ^^^^^   orchestra  and 

Sunday,  April  10. 

.vas  at  high  mass,  and  ^^^::^i::^:::;;!:t^. 

and  arrived  ^^A'^^^^'^ft'^;^"  ?\  'e  tm  "  f<^r  Keadi,>g.     The 
even  stoi.  foi  dinner,  hut  took  the  t  u  ^         ^^ 

co.ieert  has  heen  good      ^  h^^-^J  ;\^,  ,,t-my  pieees  and  I 

the  gas  w(>nt  ^.f  .'^%\^^?^X  If  I  ^vere  to  judge  hy  tlie 
had  to  tini^li  It  in  the  da  t..     ii  ^^^^  ^^^^^^^ 

appla"^'^  "^>  1^^''*^"T'  V  tL  U  was  to  that  I  owed  the 
of  li<.dit.  I  like  to  \""^\f  f.^f  ;^i;,  an  amateur,  had 
^^';.  Iv^XSl  t  fJr'  no  aid  it  to  the 

jS^sSE^oirCi^.     WeseKnightsarecou- 


KNIGHTS  OF  THE  GOLDEN  CIRCLE. 


203 


A-miml»iT8tlivce 
,1.     The  iutorior 
ore  tho  (luartor- 
m  liunily.    The 
u  11  BHiall  yellow 
:/\w\     There  arc 
posite  the  ibrt  i^ 
lilt  a  fort  mount- 
April  s. 

mi'jU;  ooufC'i't  has 
uugpublic. 

April  9. 
ocicty  of  amatears 
,)  olovato  the  taste 
.  they  give  a  con- 
rhe  orchestra  and 
layAn'y  'Creation' 
ves,'  and  although 
'actory. 

Sunday,  April  10. 

nie  excellent  nuisio. 

cva's,  was  excellent. 

was  sung  most  ex- 

r.ok  in  the  morning, 
M.,  where  I  did  not 
1  for  Heading.     The 
e  that  I  i)layed  here 
>  of  my  pieces  and  i 
■ere  to  judge  l>y  tiie 
cr  from  the  absence 
s  to  that  I  owed  the 
n,  an  amateur,  had 
He  did  it  to  the 

)rTant  role,  thanks  to 
liese  Knights  arc  con- 


spirators whoso  end  was  or  is  ^for  I  am  assured  that  the 
members  are  very  numerous  and  the  chiefs  still  at  liberty) 
to  resist  by  force  tlu' general  government,  and  to  offer  peace 
to  tho  South  by  accc'iiting  its  conditions.  The  Ki:ights  of 
tlu'  CJolden  Circle  availed  themselves  of  the  pretext  of  the 
arrival  of  Fi'deral  ofHcers,  delegated  to  preside  at  the  con- 
scription, to  make  a  levy  of  shields.  '']  he  attempt  failed, 
through  the  ad<lrcss  of  a  secret  agent  of  police  who  became 
a  member  au<l  denounced  the  conspirators. 

April  12. 

Left  for  "Williamsport.  Pennsylvania  is  the  richest  of 
the  States  by  reason  of  its  coal-mines.  The  country  ia 
mountainous,  woody,  and  intersected  b}'  brooks  and  rivers. 
AVc  crossed  on  viaducts  over  many  valleys  whose  depths, 
seen  from  the  car  door,  made  me  dizzy.  1  have  not  dined, 
and,  beginning  to  led  hungry,  I  succeeded  in  buying  at  a 
station  a  herring  and  some  bread.  I  never  ate  a  herring 
Avhich  tasted  so  delicious  (hunger  was  cook).  Uehrens 
groaned,  and  made  the  tears  come  to  our  eyes  and  our 
mouths  water  by  jiainting  for  us  a  picture  of  the  horroi-s 
of  hunger  and  telling  us  what  he  would  eat  were  he  at 
Delmonico's. 

Arrive<l  at  Williamsport  at  eight  o'clock.  I  had  sent  a 
desi>atch  to  Strakosch  telling  of  our  delay,  lie  imme- 
diately j>nt  up  bills  aimouncing  that  the  concert  would  not 
commence  until  nine  instead  of  eiglit  <^»'clock.  My  piano 
travelled  with  me  in  the  train.  Arrived  at  half  past  eight 
o'clock  at  the  hotel,  toi>k  in  a  hurry  a  cup  of  bad  tea,  ard 
away  to  business.  One  herring  for  dinner!  nine  hours  in 
the  train !  and,  in  spite  of  everything,  five  hundred  per- 
sona who  have  paid  that  }ou  may  give  to  them  two  hours 
of  poesy,  of  passion,  and  of  inspiration.  I  will  confess  to 
you  secretly  they  certainly  will  be  cheated  this  evening. 


204 


yOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

April  13. 
Elmiua.     Uoocl  concert.     A  great  deal  of  enthu.iusm.      . 

Ai>ril  14. 

'"'™'^'^''-  April  W. 

AVc  Wave  for  Soranton.     Arrive  at  noon  »>  Gm^  li™,! 

S,„,..tou  not  kuv.ng  until  l"^' ,1 ' 4,^^'°;;'' ,„  „,,  W«t 
Beml  i»  not  cvon  a  luunlet.  ^ /A  "  »  J;  '  ,"  cannoswl  of 
r"".S  '■T;^vl:u::.'rak«a:lut(,,o'. ,....'  a  ,c,e. 

thit^  evening.     A  kuI  r|  i**}"-' "'   '•      ,        ^ery  eonsidorable 
desert  tor  twenty-tonrlKHUj    ^^  i.^  |J  a  ^^  y  ^^^  ^^^^  ^^^  ^^^ 

pecuniary  los.,  ^V^^^.^^^^^VVTi  have  t„  pay  the  expenseB 
if  the  concert  bad  taken  place  ^^^^^^^^^  ^^_^^^^.^ 

Tll^^'St^b^SelT^t'h^tu  J  plan^  -^ -^l^'r 
iiie  roaa  IS  uu.  ^i  tclcn-apbed  to  btrako^(n, 

After  having  exanuned  the  uorizou  xj  ui^     » 


iaL 


April  13. 

if  cntliutiiasin. 

April  14. 

ontrt  to  our  andi- 
( thirty -f'ix  inik's 
ig.     Every  pit-'^'O 

April  15. 

m  at  Groat  Iknd 
r(<,  tlio   train   for 
■)  o'clock.     Broad 
(Hug  to  the  AVest 
i  is  c(>nil»oscd  of 
no  hero.     A  tele- 
lat  tl»e  train  that 
iue,  an«l,  a  bridge 
able  to  get  there 
'  renitiining  in  this 
X  very  eont^idcrable 
s,  which  opght  to 
[)  pay  the  expenses 
nipany  the  same  as 

to  Seranton  to-day. 
lane,  and  eainiot  be 
)hed  to  Strakosch, 
aniiniT,  that  1  shall 
ere  iW  to  give  a 

the  hotel.    I  make 

at  lo  to  be   done? 

the  right  and  seen 


-1  DItUXKKX  Hi /SUM AN. 


265 


dusky  mountains,  I  look  to  the  loft  and  see  there  the  same 
dusky  mountains.  IJefore  me  u  green  an<l  gently  undulat- 
ing plain.  The  sky  is  blue.  Ilie  landlord  of  "the  hotel, 
an  old  white-hairi'd  man,  is  sitting  before  tiio  door  caress- 
ing a  pretty-  little  girl,  who  ealls  him  grandl'atlier.  A 
drunken  Irishman  is  tolling  him  how  his  {'oiupanions  of 
the  mine  (wo  are  in  tiio  riehest  ooal-mining  district)  wished 
to  resist  the  consoi-iption.  "  When  will  irishmen  and 
whiskey  cease  to  be  indissolubly  connected?"  Answer: 
AVlien  the  employes  of  the  Xew  ^'ork  railroad  shall  become 
jiolitc.  When  5lr.  ]) — — ,  of  Hoston,  shall  attain  a  clear 
comprehension  of  music  and  shall  cease  to  adore  the  music 
of  the  future.  When  my  couiitrynu'n  shall  walk  on  tiptoe 
in  a  concert  room.  When  hack-drivers  shall  he  governed 
by  a  taritf  which  shall  prevent  them  from  cheating  travel- 
lers, and  from  insulting  them  if  they  timidly  protest  against 
this  delicate  o[ieratiou. 

In  the  telegraph  office  I  found  two  other  travellers,  com- 
]ianions  of  ciiiuti,  and  we  entered  into  conversation.  One 
of  them  I  found  to  be  Mr.  Catliii,  the  brother  of  the 
historiographical  In<Uan  j)a;nter  who  visited  I'aris  some 
twenty  years  ago.  I  called  to  mind  that  Catlin  then  ob- 
tained very  great  success  from  curiosity  !  thanks  to  the 
novelty  of  his  subject  which  he  had  treated  (with  a  very 
inexperienced  pencil).  Theophile  Gautier  even  devoted  to 
him  a  long  art  critique.  *SVt'  (ni)isif  (jloria  miDnll  !  AVliat 
has  become  of  Mr.  Catlin,  and  where  are  all  his  jiainted 
warrioi-s?  After  having  ramldcd  all  over  I'aris,  perhaps 
they  have  returned  to  their  own  country,  at  the  bottom  of 
some  valley  in  the  Far  West,  where  of  an  evoiung  they 
till  their  wigwam  with  the  recital  of  the  marvellous  child- 
ishness  and  indecent  vivacity  of  the  pale-faces  upon  the 
other  side  of  the  great  salt  lake. 

The  electric  apparatus  it  ap])ears  is  getting  impatient, 
for  five  minutes  it  has  not  ceased  working.  The  operator 
announces  to  me  that  Strakosch  is  at  the  te'.egraph  at 
Seranton  and  wishes  to  sjvak  to  me. 

(Convei'sation,  one  hundred  mile   «'j)art.) 

"  Dress  for  the  concert.  The  inspector  of  the  line  will 
dispatch  a  special  train  which  will  arrive  at  Great  Bend  at 
23 


r 


200 


NOTES  OF  A  /'M.V/>r. 


\. 


at  S-mnton,  ,..t  into  tlu-  :^^-^^^^^^^^^::;i^''^ r}^  J^. 

i^^alu-k  I  t<.ok  .mJa  lad  ,great  need  of  it)  at  the  excel- 
lent hotel, '  Wyoming  House. 

April  10. 

ronccrt  at  Wn^lmmton.     Very,  small    but   cWii^g 

although  that  of  last  year  was  crowded. 

Sunday,  April  17. 
Arrived  after  twelve  houi-s  of  railroad  at  ^'']\}'!!']^' 

jj^..  ^^^T'-l^SK  ^     "' M^iel^  'i^ 
the  eighteenth  of  April       M^    ti^m    >  ^^^^ 

Faust'  for  four  pianos.     O  pianists,  \\  no  cm  ^ 

Kewbu.;g   presents   a  \^^>    rY\t}   co  ,^^  ^^^^  ^.^^^ 

Tionses  halt   ooneealod  o>  vcniuic  f"^^'"         +  ,,  ,.:ii.io-(>  in 


•li 


II.. 


NF.WlifRd. 


2r.7 


o'cl(H'k,\vlion  a 
take  you  t'»  tl'^' 

nro  iva«ly." 

10  o'clock  I  NVii>* 
.(1  llu-  hall  and 
.lie.  Tla'  iiutU- 
l>y  a  toU'iiirapliK'. 
at  n  Htat\oii  ami 
the  overture  of 
,.(l.  At  clfVfU 
f  it)  at  the  cxt-c-l- 

Aprll  10. 
1    but   channuit,' 
it  was)  will  leave 
:hat  of  last  year, 


Sunday,  April  17. 

(I  at  New  York. 
t  three  oV-loek  on 
'  my  '  Mareiie  de 
Mitt'l-  into  the  iiro- 
They  arc  never 
iii^  that  13  given 
(1  if  re(  [nested  to 
>  they  stick  in  the 
trieate  yourself  as 

•ill  be  held  respon- 
w  it  hai>pens  that 

it  Newhurg.  The 
irg  is  on  tlie  oytpo- 
istimoe  the  town  of 
,  d\ril;  its  white 
1  to  seale  the  side 
of  a  toy  village  in 
Tlie  Iludsou  seen 


from  the  liciglits  of  Ihe  Icwn  rolls  on  majestically,  and  the_ 
8ettinir  snn  at  tliis  moment  ih  emiiuriiling  the  village  of 
Fishk'ill. 

l)o  not  trust  to  apiK-arances.  Ni'wburg,  so  ]icaccfnl,  was 
hist  year  the  theatre  of  a  I'rightfnl  tragedy,  who^^t*  details 
will  atlVight  yon.  An  nnl'or.nnate  negro,  accused  of  hiiv- 
ingviolat»'d  an  Irish  girl,  was  Iviiched  and  exe<nted  Iiy  the 
]teople.  {Some  miserahle  wretenes  throngh  their  hatred  for 
the  negroei  excited  the  jieo|ile.  They  broke  o|i(ii  the 
doors  o^'     '  on  in  whicli  the  negro  was   incai'cerati  d 

awaitiiiL  -is  inal.  In  vain  a  eoiirageons  Irish  priest  (the 
most  inveterate  enemies  of  the  blacks  in  the  lUited  States 
are  the  Irish) endeavoured  to  appease  tlani;  these  madmen 
seized  the  nid'ortnnate  Itlack,  drew  him  into  the  prison 
yard,  nnitilated  him,  and  then  brokt'  his  skull  with  a  liam- 
mer.  They  dragged  out  his  dead  body  l»y  the  heels 
and  hung  it  luad  dowiwards.  AVluit  aims  still  mori>  to 
the  horror  of  the  erinu'  is,  that  a  few  days  alterwards  it 
was  disiovered  that  the  negro  was  innocent. 

Not  eighty  jtersons  at  the  concert.  Pretext,  that,  the 
coneert  having  been  repeatedly  announced,  and  not  having 
taken  place,  the  i»nbru;  was  not  willing  to  be  disa[ipointc(l 
again.  There  is  no  reason  to  give  for  it.  There  are  no 
good  or  bad  days.  There  is  only  a  public  willing  or  not 
willing  to  go  to  a  concert. 

1  knew  a  town  in  France  where  a  concert  never  suc- 
ceeded, and  it  was  always  a  source  of  annisemeiit  to  see 
the  ingenuity  with  whicli  the  inhabitants  found  an  excuse 
for  it."  Sonu'times  it  was  that  one  of  tlu'  most  intlnential 
famili<'s  had  just  lost  its  chief  mi'inler.  Sometimes  a  lady 
who  was  just  d\ing.  Sometimes  it  was  too  late  in  the  sea- 
son, somi'times  too  early. 

My  iiiano  is  in  the  hall,  they  have  not  had  time  to  erect 
a  jil'att'orm.  I  am  surrounded  hy  a  balustrade  which 
entirely  conceals  me  from  public  view,  my  head  only  is 
above  "it,  and  I  figure  to  myself  the  very  amusing  ettect 
this  head  must  have. 

It  may  he  said  undouhtedly  tliat  the  audience  is  enthu- 
siastic. Axiom:  the  enthusiasm  of  the  audience  is  always 
iu  the  inverse  ratio  of  the  receipts.    If  the  latter  are  very 


268 


yOTES  OF   \  riAMST. 


.1  I ... ...  U  .nviit      It'  it  IK  i.rotitaMf  the  lUuU- 

:;:J;:'i:^;.i.i.  (^'v^'^;'':■r^:;:•lt;t'^;^''..;.• - 

tlu.  artist^  ^^''''J"'     ,,  ''S,M        11.;.  ..mlial    .-vplion 
'7  •  Y'[h  V  iiv^l.  I    'What  Lsoncm  ho  given  ibr 

?    \Vh      Httuit  tlio  puhlw  <h>oH  n..t  appla.HUvhn 

is;  iv  J  ;  ..  .bo^«ii..u.  i-.n.l.'io  of  .ncn  lor  tW  «;•- 
.«  „  that  tl.c  fox  found  the  ,'ra,^s  t™,  ™m  Ok  t  ; ,^ 
a,.l„„-!  what  «.nr  gra)...  -tj;™'"!;";';  f^VJ  .Hh li       m 

,„a..an^tho,u,eh-c^toh    ™W^^^^^^^^^ 


i 


.titalilo  tlio  au(U- 

iiiiuily'; 

ho  loiiu-  to  oiir 

te  Hyiiii'iitliy  •'<"' 

H'liclu'r*,  mill    «'IV- 

(mlial   r><v|.(i«»ii 
can  1k«  jrivi'ii  lor 

kvlu'M    tlu  II'    it*    II 

(»t  uiniliiiKl  wliiu 
It'  aHtoi\i!'lK'tl  iiiid 
iTU'daloiiiLr  l»y  the 

l(.iii;;irniiiiiiivii<lo 
uuk'd  on  afcoiuit 
II  lKT<Tati  <le  i^<'» 
i^'ination    of    tlio 
to  I'nibnt'uU-r,  for 
hoy  arc  listening, 
hini;;  i'l>*t!  in  music 
ijit'd  to  u;ivc  thcin 
I'thcy  then  buiUl 
hat   wht-n   it  hua 
(U'l-  another  name, 
liuv. 

I  met  IV  lUoonier. 
•t  founded  hy  Mrs. 
•itrlits.  We  have 
ire  Unitetl  States. 
•t  their  rijrlits.  I 
,vho  is  young  and 
%  gcen  are  iierteet 
who  wisli   to   free 

men  for  the  same 
too  8onr.  Oh,  this 
My  lellow  count  ry- 
isten  to  tlieir  own 
lic-h  at  ii  distance 
nd  tlie  Democrats, 
iiropean  aristocracy 
!s,  colonels,  generals 
posers,  who  dis(laiu 
,  and  the  musicians 


O*,  fta*^^fl5?"''  " 


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»:L.'»,tn-iiii;-u;iJ-li  I'lLi.n  ■!■  ji.L.l  ',Jii«MkMi!_'«i'! 


CHOPIN  BECOME  CLAS.^ICAL. 


2G9 


of  tlie  future  wlio  liavo  a  liorror  of  limpid  int'lodics- — sour 
grapes!  And  the  horrible  demoralization  of  Kuropcan 
society,  thankw  to  which  you  cannot  find  among  twenty 
married  women  a  faithful  wife  (tliis  was  said  to  me  by  a 
vii'tuoiirt  Ameriean,  who  loved  her  husband  moderately) 
■ — sour  grapes! 

Since  Liszt  has  given  the  word  of  eonmiand  to  the 
Germans,  C'liopin  has  all  at  once  become  classical.  His 
forms,  which  before  they  treated,  without  understanding 
them,  as  Avhimsical,  his  harmonies,  so  worke<l  up,  have 
become  so  many  perfect  modi'ls.  I  do  not  complain  for 
my  part,  having  been  one  of  the  old  Chopinists,  l)ut  what 
I  deplore  is  the  frightful  abuse  which  is  made  of  Chopin's 
formulas.  There  is  not  a  small  ]iianist  comjioser  who  does 
not  think  himself  called  u[ion  to  make  Chopin  mazourkas, 
Chopin  nocturnes,  Chopin  polonaises — it  has  become  an 
e])i(lemie  in  the  United  States.  They  have  become  masters 
of  Chopin's  processes,  and  employ  them  without  discern- 
ment in  the  most  trivial  melodies.  This  recalls  to  me 
Madame  F.,  who  composed  music  after  Ilaydn. 

SciiEXKCTADV,  April  10. 

Detestable  concert,  hardly  seventy-five  i)ersons,  who 
applauded  at  random  with  a  free  and  easy  frankness  which 
was  very  amusing. 

April  20. 

Left  for  Troy,  where  I  have  had  a  very  poor  concert. 
AVhy  should  I  be  so  popular  in  certain  towns,  and  not  at 
all  in  others? 

Thuividay.  I  started  for  Xew  York  at  five  o'clock  in  the 
morning.  Concert  in  the  evening  at  the  Academy  of 
Music,  TJrooklyn — sujierb  audience.  A  young  lady  am?,- 
teur,  full  of  pretensions,  like  all  amateurs,  after  insisting 
upon  being  2»!aeed  upon  the  posters  refused  to  play  when 
her  turn  came,  on  the  pretext  that  she  could  only  play 
upon  her  Steinway.  I  played  in  her  ])lace,  and  all  my 
pieces  wore  encored.  Steinway  and  Chickering,  Guelphs 
and  Ghibellines  of  the  musicians,  are  divided  into  two  fac- 
tions— the  Germans  are  for  Steinway. 

23* 


270 


NOTES  OF  A  riAMST. 


April  22. 

Sot  out  at  tlirco  o'clock  from  ITow  York  for  roiitrlikiriisie 
—  clianiniii:;  iilace  and  clianniiig  coiu'crt.  One  ('i'  tlio 
iiaiicrs  for ''the  fiiudr  of  '  Hoimiainbula'  has  put  Meiiiak'. 
TIi'h  liriii"-s  to  inv  Diind  a  protrranniu' ]iriiito(l  at  IJordoaiix 
ill  whiciri  playc'd  the  '  nauanu-r' and  tlie 'Savaiio'  wh'u-li 
was  printed  the  'Savaiiier'  anil  tho  'Baiiauo.' 

I'oiiirlikoopsio    has   several    laru;e    hoarding-schools   lor 
yonii<'-ladies  and  one  or  two  larg-e  colleges.     One  of  tlu'iii, 
'CoUetjo  Hill,'  is  situated  on  a  hill  which  overlooks  the 
towii.'^  From  the  coUeire  porch  (whose  architecture  almost 
resembles  that  of  a  temple  of  Diaiui)  we  see  the  CatskiU 
]\louiitains,  and  the  Hudson  rolling  on  in  all  its  majesty. 
This  CoUeii-e  Hill  was  onlv  three  or  four  years  ago  a  simple 
hoanling-school.     Its  proprietor  sold  it,  not  heing  able  to 
make  his  expenses.     His  successor,  an  intelligent  ^  ankee, 
eommciu'ed    hv  studving   the  manners  of  the  town,  and 
found  out  tlia't  it  was  aristocratic  hut  slow.     Innovations 
are  there  like  exotic  plants  planted  in  the  oj.en  air,  they 
wither  and   die.     A  hoarding-school   under  the  name  ot 
academv  had  onlv  had  up  to  that  time  a  moderate  sueecss; 
he  baptized  it  wUh  the  name  of  t'ollege,  introduced  new 
branches  of  instruction,  a  military  uniform,  and   behold, 
Koon   a   transformation   took   place,  impils  llowed  in  trom 
all  (luurters,  and  College  Hill  became  what  it  now  is. 

April  23. 

Left  ronghkeepsie  at  ton  o'clock.  We  arrive  at  Ku^tland 
at  half  past  four  P.  M.,  stojiiiing  ten  minutes  at  Tr()y. 
r)ehreiis,  whose  appetite  increases  with  the  fatigues  ot  the 
journey,  rushes  into  the  butt'et,  but  the  bill  ot  tare  (ndy 
offers  \ea  and  eold  pies.  Ueh reus,  who  is  a  philosopher, 
consoles  himself  bv  making  puns,  that  grow  worse  and 
worse,  whieh,  to  spare  his  self-esteem,  I  plaee  to  the  account 
of  his  gastronomic  disappointment. 

Conwrt  at  Rutland  very  tine.     The  young  girls  oi  the 
town  have  asked  me  to  play  '  Last  Hope.' 

April  24. 

Rimerh  weather.     The  mountains,  from  which  the  State 
takes  its  name  (Vermont),  undulating  in  the  suii.     ^ear 


VERMOyr  MARliLK  QTWRRIF.S. 


271 


April  22. 

rrou<rlikt.r]isie 
One  ci'  the 
i  put  '  leinak'l' 
L'd  at  rxirdeaiix 
'Savaiie'  wliirli 

linji'-scliools  for 
()iie  of  tlieiii, 
1  overlooks  the 
liiteeture  ahiiost 
see  tlie  Catskill 

all  its  ma'n'sty. 
[irs  ago  a  simple 
)t  heiiiir  al)le  to 
.'lligeiit  '^'ankee, 

the  town,  and 
iv.  Innovations 
e  oi)on  air,  they 
er  the  name  of 
loderate  success; 
,  inti'oduced  u'-'AV 
mi,  and  hehold, 
s  Hovved  in  from 
t  it  now  is. 

April  23. 

irrivo  at  Rutland 
linutes  at  Troy. 
?  fatigues  of  the 
hill  of  fare  only 
is  a  philosopher, 
grow  woise  and 
ice  to  the  account 

5ung  girls  of  the 
April  24. 

1  which  the  State 
1  the  sun.     Xoar 


i\\('  village  are  the  ceU'hrated  marhle-quarries,  known  under 
the  name  of  the  ^vutland  (^larries.'  The  white  marhle  is 
so  alinndajit  here  that  we  notice  white  niarlde  pavements, 
ini'losure  walls,  hrims  of  wells,  and  mile-stones  on  the 
road,  of  the  same  mat('rial.  We  have  taken  a  carriage  riile 
to  see  the  ([Uarries.  The  worknu'ii  have,  like  all  Xortlicrn 
workmen,  struck  for  an  incri'as(-  of  wages,  ])roportinnc(l  to 
the  progressive  advance  in  price  of  all  articles  of  prime 
necessity  at  the  Xorth. 

Tlie  country  is  s[(lendid.  A  waterfall  rushes^  over,  and, 
its  spray  sifting  the  sim's  rays,  forms  a  true  rainl)ow.  A 
fertile  vallev  spreads  out  hefore  us,  whose  emerald  hue 
alternates  with  the  deep  Idueof  a  little  stream  which  winds 
along  slowly  at  random. 

Tiie  dark  mountains  0!i  tlie  horizon  still  preserve  at 
their  summit  the  snows  of  winter,  lichind  us  thi'  village 
of  Rutland  with  its  live  or  six  steeples  j.iercing  the  l»luc 
sky,  the  (piarries  of  white  marhle,  the  blocks  of  which, 
already  detached,  sjiarkle  like  diamonds  in  the  sun,  and 
all  around  us  the  green  fields  of  Vermont,  which,  with  the 
cloudless  sky,  form  a  picture  that  I  ilo  not  know  Ikjw  to 
descrilie. 

Uehreiis  has  ha<l  the  unlucky  idea  of  hiring  a  hnggv, 
and,  as  he  knows  no  more  how  to  drive  a  horse  than   I 

know  how  to  conciliate  the  goodwill  of  Mr.  D ,  tin- 

result  is  that  he  found  himself  in  too  direct  contact  with 
another  carriage.  His  has  come  out  of  tlw  encounter  with 
a  slight  scar,  which  the  hirer  of  the  carriage  has  generously 
estimated  at  twenty-iive  dollars.  T  douht  if  the  country  ()f 
Vermont  will  leave  as  agreeable  an  impression  ujion  him 
as  ui)on  myself. 

Ik'hrens  was  awakened  this  morning  hy  the  slu'ritl",  who 
had  heeii  sent  to  him  by  the  liirer  of  carriages,  as  Relireiis 
liad  neglected  to  i)ay  the  twenty-five  dollars.  The  affair  is 
settled^  l)ut  Behreiis  looks  ratlier  sheepish,  lb'  makes  up 
for  his  discomfiture  this  niorinng  by  redoubling  his  ajipe- 
tite  and  emphasizing  his  puns  more  than  usual.  Stand 
from  under!  We  leave  in  two  hours  for  JJurliiigton,  where 
I  give  a  concert  this  evening. 

Arrived  at  the  hotel  \n  Burlington,  we  diseovered  that 
Carlo  Patti  was  missing.     Max   returned  to  the  station, 


272 


yOTKS  OF  A  PIAMST. 


,    .  .1         IP  i,.,lf  nn  hour  WO  siiw  Carlo  coming,  fol- 
ivu.l  at    1,0  on.l  of  \'^';."'\,.  :;',,.,;„.  ,lown  liko  a  rotVa.- 

us  as  so.)U  a^  nno  "  •^''^, '  "\;.' \,.^,,.^  foroed  to  do  our  bost, 
.vith  attontiou.     1  csult      \\  ^,^0,1  who  c-oiuplah,  of 

tVolh.u;  oursolvp.  at  ease      O  1  n  he  •  )o  .^  1.^^ 

the  coMnoss  ';*  -^^!^^^  :^;^^,*^;l     i/^^tt^      the  luunonr 
own  in(.httorou<o      \\';,";\\;  «  ..^ja,  .listraoted,  inditferont, 

;;;i^H::!::;;run;rc^l;t^^;iist,  v^^^ 

boc.ome  wana,  an<l  "-l'^'"';^  ^''"jy/'.Jr  .Struck  tVon>  ^ 

:l;;^!s;:'t^;^r\r.^^:i:i  be  0^^^^    amidst  ti. 

•  ^l^dent  impatu-noe  of  thc.e  wd,o  l^-';^--_  ,,0 
morning  attoi  »/;'"^^i'^-    ,  .       ■         "_whon  the  audionco 

one  had  encored  t 

April  26. 

I  .ot  out  in  a  fow  moments  for  rlattsbnrg,  on  the  otter 
,We  'of  tl,e  lake  .^V",?"  ,"'  "  S^Tte-  slll.onette.  of  the 
„,.li;:;:2"v.'S:"m.™na  i.":;-rre«eete,>  ,,v  U  in  gram, 

a  hook  o  prove  t^f^^'^'/VhoBihle  itself.  Poor  Bible  I 
draws  his  arguments  from  ^1^^  ^!^^';;;^^^  f^.,,  iutorprota- 
Onc  of  t^,e  grcnvt  ^^^l^;^^,^^;^;  ,;^,tan<l  it,  is  that 
tion  of  the  r>d.le,  a.  ^  'AWw  mtovor  he  wishes  aeeonling 
every  one  can  make  it  ^'^^l^;;;  ^^^  ^  IVunsvlvania  proves 
to  his  v.re  udioes.  Bishop  i  ottci,  01  •^^■"'h,,  ,,  i,-  i' „,  of 
!  i>;.1n  tb-it  slavery  s  abominable.  iUe  iMMiop/'i 
bv  the  i)ible  tliat  si.n  t_ij  ^l.,vorv  is  a  divine 

!l;f  tS'XlSVr'rua^tttrBi'uo i,i  tte  .,ana.  of 


Ill  MAX  HYPOCRISY. 


273 


arlo  coming,  fol- 
,\vii  liko  A  ri'tViU'- 
s  loatlniji  biK'k  Xo 
inorfiicc',  nnd  did 
!  train  froiinvlKTO 
pcrwivod  bis  iiiis- 

raniily  api'landod 
uid  listened  to  tin 
cd  to  do  our  best, 
1  wbo  coriiplain  of 
»s(in  lor  it  in  \our 
etiocts  tbc  bumonr 
raotod,  bidittbront, 
ly  1)0  sure,  will  not 
bim.     Tbis  spark, 
?  struck  from  bim 
uisbod  amidst  tbo 
and  vawn. 
n  a  small  town  tbo 
been  kind,  and  bas 
-Avbcn  tbc  audience 
,eat  tbat  wbieb  no 

April  2G. 

sburg,  on  tbe  otber 

lie  silbouettes  of  tbc 
ictcd  by  it  in  grand 

1,  lias  just  puldisbed 
s-ine  institution,  and 
itself.  Poor  Diblo ! 
1  tbe  free  interprcta- 
mderstand  it,  is  tbat 
be  wisbes  according 
rennsvlvania  ;)rorc.s 

ble.     tbo  Bisbop  of 

slavery  is  a  divine 

Bible  iu  tbc  bands  of 


tlieso  gentlemen  proves  notbiiig  unless  it  be  tbat  we  bave 
an  odd  spirit,  itnd  tbat  tbe  mo^t  ab>urd  and  odious  doc- 
trines Hnd  always  sonietbing  to  sustain  tliem. 

("bildren,young  girls, constantly  read  tlie  ( )ld  Testament, 
not  expurgated  boly  bistory,  but  tbe  Bible,  sucb  as  it  is  in 
tbe  original,  witb  its  crudities  of  language,  its  coiicujiiscent 
images,  its  coarsi'iiess,  its  monstrous  corruptions,  ("bildren 
do  not  see  in  it  nuicb  to  interest  tbem,  but  young  girls  feed 
on  it  constantly,  and  nevertbeless  tliey  jtreservo  (or  pretend 
to  preserve)  tbe  jiurity  of  tbeir  imagmation. 

Tliese  same  maidens  wbo  remain  in;passable  in  reading 
tbe  Canticle  of  Canticles  or  tbo  bistory  of  Lot,  are  trouhletl 
at  tbe  word  pn»l(il<i(i»,  blusbing  to  tbe  ears  if  \()U  jiro- 
nounce  tbc  word  /lys,  and  look  u)ioii  you  as  ill-bred  wbeii, 
iiKpiiring  of  you  news  of  your  motber,  you  tell  tbem  tbat 
sbe  bas  given  you  a  little  brotlur.  Fii",  tlu'ii!  "N'ou  may 
say  tbat  sbe  bad  a  bad  beadacbc.  It  is  tbe  only  illness  ad- 
nutted  111  society.  I'uritanic  anatomy  only  recogni/es  tbo 
feet  and  tbe  bea<l,  and  in  some  cases  tbe  arms,  but  notbing 
aI)ove  tbeelltow.  AVliat  is  most  deligbtful  is  tbat  t bey  un- 
derstand very  well,  notwitbstanding  all  tbis. 

!So  if  you  wisb  to  say  tbat  a  danscuse  bas  pretty  legs, 
3'ou  say,  sbe  bas  cbarming  ankles.  You  wisb  to  say  tbat 
your  wife  is  brougbt  to  bed,  you  say  tbat  sbe  is  obliged  to 
keej)  ber  cbamber  for  some  time.  Tliese  expressions  are 
consecrated  and  express  absolutely  tbe  same  tiling.  Ob, 
buman  by[iocrisy !  You  easily  accommodate  yourself  to 
tliese  little  subterfuges. 

Tbe  journey  across  tbc  lake  is  cbarming.  IMattsburg, 
■wbere  we  are  going,  bas  only  four  or  five  tbousand  iuliabit- 
ants;  A  speculator  in  tbe  village  bas  engaged  us  for  a 
concert  for  tbree  bundred  and  twenty  dollars.  A  traveller 
bas  just  assured  mc  tbat  every  place  is  taken,  and  tbat  tluy 
come  from  twenty-live  miles  around  to  l)e  jiresent  at  tins 
grand  tete.  A  concert  like  ours  is  a  real  revolution  for  a 
village. 

Arrived  at  Plattsbui-g  at  one  P.  Af.  Excellent  botel 
Fouguet,  situated  on  tbe  edge  of  a  blurt"  wbieb  overlooks 
Lake  Cbamplain.  Tbis  lake  freezes  in  winter ;  tbcy  tben 
use  boats  on  runners,  spread  tbeir  sails  and  are  carried  by 
tbe  wind.     I  am  told  tbat  tbis  kind  of  travellin'j  is  as 


274 


NOTJ'.S  or  A  I'lAMST. 


•  1       u  w  ..frnM.'il.U-  tho  rate-  hv\wi  at  an  avoraiio,  when 

"; ;; ; .  .  atan ".„„.„) ii.' «oii  »,naii  -'i'^-;;;':;^- 

t\\(.Mliui>     V  ,M,..' fthcni  hart  Kuch  iviaarKiilMN  Milan 

the  Lualh'oss  of  the  ieot  among  the  Indians  i.  one  ot  the 

traits  of  then-  race. 

Montreal. 

Patti,  who  went  to  take  a  walk,  has  already  ^^^^^  some 

I  V  si  ed  to  sneak  coneennn.ti  the  attack  of  wueh  lie  has 
L^/1^^ahiiet  in  apaper/respec-tin.  h,sso,mr,wn^  h^ 

J^oalh  and  of  his  service  n.  ^^^:;^^J^^^,Z 
has  1)econie  a  sort  of  hero.     At  ^t.  ^^'"^^^'^Y'^''    ,        ,• 

S  "«^o;  'l  hin,  Sv,.uti„,  ln,n  on  ,ns  ,,oim. 


1 


''Tiir.  roysTiTCTios  .i>'  //'  iim.s-." 


m 


w  iivcmire,  wlit'ii 
iiiilo  ovfry  tlirc-o 

•  crowdi'il  iinil  a 
vi>  to  iitlinii  tliiit 
jy  iqiplaiKU'tl. 
)f  April.     L  iK-r- 
1)V  till'  inisiM'iiUlo 
flio  milwiiy  c-iU-H 
.     I  just  hoiinl  a 
ut  Frriifh  ao't'iit 
('  with  which  tho 
Parisian  i)r«»nun- 
|.us),  iinswcr.-*  my 
(■tor.      The    train 
ok'iu'V  which  ap- 
.     \\*c  stop  ovory 
lOur.     Arrivoil  at 
loe,  wo  omhark  on 
•y  us  to  thc!  other 
'stcanior  I  notice 
ill  articles  worked 
1  ivniarkahly  small 
,-c'ry  OIK',  arthou.tih 
(Uans  is  one  of  the 

Montreal. 

already  mot  some 
tiainsaid.  Thanks 
t  Bnitalo  has  made 
k  of  wliieh  lie  has 

his  sojourn  in  the 
lerato  armyV  I'attl 
is,  whore  Unionism 
,nded   to    the  skies 

ho  found  imknown 
i  him  on  his  politi- 
')f  Freemasonry  eon- 
inations  are  ha]ipily 
I  ruin  of  the  North, 


and  in  makinu;  sterile  vows  for  tlu'  trinin|ih  of  the  Sonth. 
1  know  nothint,'  more  odions  than  this  kind  of  hylirid 
patriot,  who  with  arms  crossed,  protests  his  devotion  to  the 
Kcpnhlic  and  remainjjneiiter,(X<vpt  when  l»y  his  clamours  he 
endeavours  ro  fetter  the  efforts  oft  he  i;-ovcrnnient.  1  admire 
and  resiu'ct  those  of  the  South  who  tiiiht  and  saeritieo 
themselves  for  what  tlicy  thiid<  a  Just  cause.  1  do  not  par- 
ticii)ate  in  their  convictions,  hut  1  have  only  contempt  lor 
tlu-se  i)i>lit!<'(iMn:'^  of  the  North  who  wish  peace  at  any 
price,  without  thinkini-'  that  the  plasterinj;'  up  a  few  cracks 
is  of  no  use  when  the  foundation  of  tln'  t'difice  is  Lrivmir 
wav,  and  that  in  the  social  no  more  than  in  the  individnal 
hody  an  eatinu;  wound  does  not  cease  its  rava«res  hecanse  it 
is  concealed  under  an  anodyne  plaster. 

"The  Constitution  as  it  was"— such  is  their  cry.  I'ools 
that  you  arel  the  Constitution  is  a  chimera,  and  the  venera- 
tion which  von  have  for  the  hroki'ii  pact  is  at  least  uijsea- 
sonahle.  Tlu^  Constitution  to-day  has  hecome  imi)ossihle. 
It  would  be  as  iinreasonahle  as  to  reiiuire  that  a  iiian_  should 
always  wear  the  clothes  of  his  lioyliood,  and  have  his  limlis 
shortened  in  onU'r  to  accommodate  them  to  his  clothes, 
now  hecome  too  small,  rather  than  enlar<;e  them  in  propor- 
tion to  his  u;rowth. 

Behrens,\vho  is  the  best  fellow  in  the  world,  and  whose 
linmoiir  is  of  a  (piality  that  has  heeii  aide  to  resist  the 
melancholv  hirtnonce  of'the  piano  (I  say  melancholy,  hecanse 

I  have  reiiiarked  that  those  who  make  a  trade  of  a  thiii^ 
are  >!;enerally  those  who  use  it  the  least;  witness  the  distil- 
lers, who  har*llvever  drink  spirits,  and  the  disciples  of  har- 
iiKMiv  who  are  never  able  to  establish  it  amon.<>;  themselves), 
Hehreiis,  I  say,  after  my  i)arenthesis,  has  become  morose 
for  the  last  two  or  three  days.  The  had  cheer  has  taken 
etfeet  upon  his  placid  and  benevolent  ora-anization.  This 
enters  into  the  theorv  of  one  of  my  frieixls,  a  mad  material- 
ist, who  protends  that  the  celebrated  elegiacs,  poets,  and 
musicians  were  onlv  so,  because  they  had  a  bad  stomach, 
and  that  a  few  pills  discreetly  and  opportuiu'ly  swallowi'd 
.would  have  relieved  them.  "Let  us  rejoice  that  tluw  were 
not  like  mv  friend.  For  my  part,  1  have  always  believed 
that  the  artist  was  a  victim,  fatally  destined  in  spite  of  him- 


276 


NOTES  OF  A  rM.V/>T. 


1 


srlf  to  1.0  nil  iMstnum>nt  throujil.  whi.l.l'rovi.loiico  l.ivatlu'^ 
oil  till-  world  irrtnin  i-xi.ivssioiis,  rortam  kU'iis 

In   Alsa.v  thfV  srooj.  tlii'  eyes  out  ot  .lucks  un.l  li^vsc., 
ivn.l  susiK-ua  tlu'ni  l.y  the  fivt,  lu-a-l  .lownwanls.       ii  this 
nositiou,  !mt  littk"  lavounil.k"  to  di.uvstiou,  tlicy  lor<l  tlu'iii 
.Irnti'ou-^lv.     Tlu-  liviT  inid.'r  this  ivtiiiuo  hfcMucs  lat,anil 
It  is  iVoiu  Uii'so  livers  that  tlu'  famous  i^Vrs  ,lr  Ju,r  t/rx.ywa 
miulo.     Thus,  artirttrt  who  havo  tU'Vi-r  done  .tiii'at  thiu.u's, 
hut  when  thi'V  wfiv  dviuL!;  of  hunsii-r,  or  wciv  consuiuptivc, 
,„.  amorous,  .".r  witlmut  hopr,  seem  t..  lui'  t..  ho  thu  .ticvso  and 
the  ducks  whioh  lV.vi<lciicc  has  coudcnuic<I  to  tlic  costly 
priviloa"  of  cxhaliuiT,  at   the  la-ice  of  their  cxistnicc,  har- 
iMoiiious  thouiihts  whii'h  the  /-.///.s-  vivants  ot    mmd   ti.<to 
tniiKiuillv  at  tlio  haii«|uct  of  life. 

A   tnuV'  to  poor  jokes.     Art  is  too  vure,  its  soun-e  too 
elevated,  its  eniovuu'iits  too  retiued,  its  iunueucc  too  n.-hk", 
its  essence,  in  one  Nv..rd,  to.,  divii...  f..r  me  t.;  partwipate  m 
the  .rastroiiomi.'al  hericfs  of  my  skeptical  trien.l.     Ait   is 
the  ank'ut  aspiration  f..r  the  heautifuK     It  is  y,.luptu..us. 
ness  suhlime.1  hv  the  spirit;  it. is  an  irivsistihk' transpoit 
Avhi.-h  makes  lis  hurst  the  h..nds  ot  nuit.;rial  space,  thn.ugh 
the  i.k'al,  an.l  transp.)rts  us  to  the  celestial  spheres. 

This  l.-n.--  di.--ressi..n  into  whi.-h  T  have  heeii  .Irawn,  has 
Beparate.1  mo  iV..m   Ik-hrens,  an.l  fr..m_  the  mtluen.-e  ..ver 
him  of  the  eternal  'ham  an.l  eo-s,   this  retu-.- ..    tav.'rn- 
keepcrs  taken  at  unawares,  an.l  that  punishment  t.>  which 
our  .lis..r.lerly  life  .•on.lemns  us.     As  he  who  looks  d..wn- 
wanls  at  a  a.untry  k.ses  all  i.lea  ot  its  pertection,  s..  the 
st..machs..f  a  vatjah.^nd  comi.any  k.se  all  n..tions  ..t  a  regu- 
lar ai.petite  whi.-h  well  hrouo-ht-u|.  stoma.-hs  <.u.<iht  to  lave. 
AVe  dine  sometimes  at  eleven  o.-l...-k  at  nm-ht,  sonu-tinu-s 
at  n.K.n.     Sometimes  hreakfast  prc-.-ch-s  the  .Imn.-r  a  halt 
hour,an.l  s..metinies  it  is  reparate.l  fn^m  it  hy  tw..  hun.lre.l 
miles  of  railway.    After  this,  d..  y,.u  w..nder  that  n.y  ......I 

Mr  B.,  wh..,  hec-ause  he  has  an  ex.-elk-nt  st..ma.-h,  is  n..t  ..t 
an  ele-iae  nature,  has  heeome  sa.l  for  the  last  three  or  t..iir 
davs  from  our  feasting  at  ahsunl  hours  on  ham  an.l  eg^'s 
and  stale  saii.hviehes!  Fortunately  the  ^t  Lawrence  Ih-te 
has  an  excellent  tahle,  and  J?ehr.,-ns,  who  has  ina.le  to-.lav 
three  festivals  of  Helsha/.zar,  feels  in  a  merry  hui«'onr,  an.l 
lets  Hy  at  me,  when  1  least  expect  it,  a  broadside  oi  puns 
of  high  Germanic  tiavour. 


J 


1 


mi:  LM,Li:iU  vmcLim, 


m 


V  uk'ncc'  luvatln's 

L'ilS. 

lucks  am',  jit't-si", 
wards.  In  this 
they  fi't'fl  tliciu 
biHoiiR's  lilt, ami 
',s'  tlifdif  (jnis  aro 
me  ji-ri'at  tliiii,t:s, 
iTc  coiisuiniitivo, 
>  be  tliu  licvse  ami 
iifd  to  till'  (M.stly 
ir  cxistfiKV,  liar- 
',v  ot'   iiiiml  ti.'to 

ire,  its  sonrir  too 
tlm-mT  too  iioliK', 
.«  to  iiartii'lpati'  in 
il  tVicnd.  Art  is 
It  is  voluptuous- 
csistilih'  transport 
•ial  siiaci',  tliroiii>;li 

ll  SplKTOS. 

(.>  lu'i'n  drawn,  lias 

lio  inHiunco  over 

irfuirc  of  tavcrn- 

lishnR'iit  to  wliicli 

who  looks  down- 

pfrii'ction,  so  tho 

notions  of  a  irg-u- 

rhs  ought  to  have. 

t  niii'ht,  souietiiues 

the  diumT  a  half 

it  hy  two  Innulred 

nder  that  my  _i!;ooil 

r  stoniai'h,  is  not  of 

e  last  three  or  four 

s  on  ham  and  eu-gs 

St.  Lawrenee  Hotel 

lo  has  made  to-day 

nerry  humour,  and 

.  broadside  of  puns 


CTTAI'TKR   XVT. 

T   AM  batk  from  the  eoncert.     The  rain,  whi.h  has  not 
ceased   fallinir  since  this  morninu',  increased   towiird  eitdit 
(.■<'lock,   which    evidentiv   onu'lit'  to   have   diminished    the 
iv.-cipts.     Tlie   hall    nev'erthe'less   was   well    fdled.  inid    the 
ladies,   elcLTantlv   dressed,   productd    a    lieautiful   etfect    as 
wen  fr<.ni'~the  stage.     The  parterre  is  jreiu-rally  oeetipiud 
1)V  those  who  care  less  for  b.-ing  seen  than  for  listdiinir  to 
the  musii'.     They  applamled  with  enthusiasm,  and  listened 
with  an  attention    which  sinirula  'y   contrasted   with  the 
noise  made  by  some  eUgaiit    Knglish   otHci'rs,  who  wwo 
determined  to' attract  attention  to  their  bli.nde  whiskers, 
their  convex  chests,  and  their  white   gloves,  which   they 
held  at  a  foot's  distance  outside  of  the  box.     Their  conver- 
sation,  whi<'h  with  noble  condescension  they  made  in  a  loud 
voice  in  onler  to  permit  the  whole  hall  to  enjoy  tlieir  high- 
flown  humour,  was  disngrceably  interrupted   from  time  to 
time  by  my  piano,  which  1   willingly  would  havi>  taken 
iiway  fiom"^the  programme,  these  genth'Uien  replacing  me 
in  a  very  advantageous  manner,  if  I  had  not  thought  that, 
perhaps',  the  imblic,  accustomed  as  it  must  bo  to  them, 
would  have  mieh  preferred  me. 

1  know  nothing  more  ill  bred  than  a  fashionable  English- 
man, unless  it  be /(/-o  fashionable  Knglishmcn. 

In  the  box  in  (piestion  there  were  three,  and  they 
worthily  austained  their  reputation. 

April  28. 

Tliursday  evening.  Second  concert.  As  much  as  I  had 
plaved  without  pleasure  the  other  evening,  so  much  I  have 
excelled  myself  to-day.  All  my  pieces  have  been  encored. 
I  lea\e  to-niorrow  for  Ogdensburg. 

April  29. 

Set  out  from  ^fontreal  at  seven  o  clock.     In  the  car. 
Carlo  Patti— '•  Sunshine  Patti,'  as  I  call  him,  on  account  of 
24 


i 


0 


278 


yoTi:s  III'  A  /'/ 1  \/>'r. 


tl..'    llilpl'V    tll..UirlltllWlU«SS    nf    hi.    rluinirtrr      luis    llliiai<    11 

cuiKnirsl."    A  vouiiir  im.l   pretty  \\..iiiiiii   imh.Ic  ii.lvuiP  ■  s  to 
l.iiii.  i.n.l   th.y  i.iv'talkiii.j:  touvtlicf.     Mh'  whs  at  llu-  .•oii- 

fi'fl  lii-t  iii'.'lit.  .111  11 

A  Scidlitz  i.()\v(lrr(.rt\vn(lni-liiiis<.l  iliuhiiil.  sfiis..n:iMy 
„.liuini>tiTc<l.im«l  I'.'tniivli  1kv..iiu's  a  I'.urra.K.,  I.ainaitmc 
„  l-,,ul  .1..  Kn.k,aiMl  Mf.  D-  -  iiii,i:l>t  iKv.-iMr  an  a. ma  .1.. 
man  Wliat  a  lu^aiitirul  tliint'  lu.Mli.inr  is.  ami  la.w  imiI.t- 
l.liialo  it  is  lliat  I  have  l.ul  the  ivripe  Id'  ih.-se  i.iarvelU.llH 
pills. 

Art'iveat  Pivscott,  a  small  Caiia.lian  villa.i:.'  on  the  U'l't 
haiii<  ..f  the  St.  Lawivi.r...  Opposite  to  it,  Uo'dcMislau-  oi. 
Ihe  Auu'i-wau  shoiv,  s.vms  t..  rise  nut  ol  t  le  water  I  ..' 
waves  (.f  tliis  maiesti.'  river  roll  slowly  a  ..n-r.  I  la-  s  m 
makes  them  sparkle  like  myria.ls  o!  little  pearls.  Wo 
eross  ill  a  lerry  hoat.  O-densl.urir  isa  lar^'e  town,  very 
rieh  on  ueeouiif  of  its  jroojiiai.hieal  position. 

Seven  or  ei-'ht  v.'ars  a-o  I  irave  a  e<.iieert  here  m  •'•mh- 
„imv  with  Maaaiiide  l.auranuv.  1  n^niemher  that  at  that 
tiiiro  I  roeeivt-a  a  i-erfnuu'.!  Lillet,  in  very  small  wTitin-,  m 
which  soinc!  one  invit.'d  me  to  come  to  the  town  ot  -  ty 

take  luneh.'  The  name  was  unknown  to  me.  M-vei-tlieless  i 
aeeei.ted.  The  house  was  eoneeale.l  in  the  midst  ol  a  slia.ly 
park,  surroun.le.1  l.v  hi-h  walls,  thus  .lefym-  the  eiiriosity 
or  the  iiidisereet.     No  noise  from  outside  eou  d  distiirh 


the 
cmiet  of  this  mvsterh.us  ah.ule.  I  should  lave  t hot. -lit 
mvself  in  the  interior  of  a  eonvent,  it  an  (.Id  servant  lual 
n.'.t  eome  to  receive  mc  to  tell  me  that  his  mistress  wished  ine 

to  wait  for  her  in  the  e..nservat.lry  adjoining  the  drawing- 
room.  The  residi^nee  was  sumptuous  1  reiieh  i'l''>l"'S 
I'arisian  enirraviims,  and  u  crowd  of  those  eh\!fi>ut  little 
tritles  and  siipertluities  which  are  found  only  m  treiicn 
palons,  and  which  the  morose  and  traditional  taste  ot  the 
An.do-Saxons  excludes  from  their  parlours  at  (Mi.r  tol.l 
me'that  the  mistress  of  the  house  was  or  had  heeii  pretty, 
that  she  had  taste,  and  ivirrt'tted  I'aris. 

The  mistress  of  the  enchaiite.l  house  soon  entered.  Mio 
was  a  woman  from  forty  to  forty-tivi-  years  old,  who  must 
have  heen  very  prettv.     She  told  me  her  name;  and  that 


A  Mm  jr. \  Vl'srrrf/. 


279 


I'l" — has  iiimli'  a 

inlc   llllvilh'  rs  to 
Wlis    lit    llu-    I'Oll- 

i1)iirli  si'iisdiiiiMy 
ciuio,  l.iuiuiriiin' 
c'oiiu'  an  aiiiiiiliK' 
.  mill  liow  mit'or- 
tlio>t'  luarvi'lloiirt 


illiiLTi'  rui   tlu'  Ici't 

,  (  )i;(U'llsl>ltl\Lr.  on 

llu'  water.     The 

Sllnllir.       'I'Ih'    i^llll 

nil'  jifiirls.  We 
liir^'e  town,  very 

1)11. 

rvH  hvw  ill  "'"'iii- 

lulH-r  tliat  at  tliat 
small  w  ritiiiir,  in 

■  town  of 'to 

C.     NeVlTtlll'K'HS,  I. 

•  niiilst  of  a  sliady 
yiiiii'  tlu'  curiosity 
coiiltl  distiirl)  llie 
iild  have  tliouirlit 
n  olil  servant   lia<l 
iiistress  wished  me 
niiiii;  till'  drawinu;- 
Fri'iieh    alliums, 
liose  eleiraiit    little 
1(1  only  in  Freiieh 
tional  taste  of  the 
lours,  at    (Mice  told 
)r  ha<l  heeii  pretty, 

soon  entered.  Pho 
■ars  old,  who  must 
ur  name;  and  that 


eelehrated  iiamo  tlieii  rivalled  to  m.-  an  infantil.'  inmression 
which  had  cii./ravcd  on  my  iiu'inory  tlu-  coiitii>cd   imau;e 
of  a  >i.lciidid  voiinu^  uirl  ol"  |iiilc  complexion,  siiperh  form, 
and  a  wealth  "of  nndnlatinu:  'l'"!!   hair,  whom   I   saw  one 
eveninir,  <»n  tlu'  halcony  of  the  St.    I.oiii..   Ilotd  at    New- 
Orleans,  sahitinir,  with  'the  itestiire  of  n  'iu.mi.  the  crowd 
assemi.lcd  to  see  luT.     A  hla<-k  velvet  I  mic  hoMiy  slant in-r 
on   the  r.honldi'rs  caused  to  he  aM'ivciateil   the  adiiiiraUe 
niriiatioii  of  a  hosoiii   too  sli-htly  coinralcd.      i)oiihtlesrt 
coiintiiiii'  more  ni.oii  the  Icvi'imate  heanty  of  her  .haniH 
than   on   that   of  her   l.l•eten^iolls,  she  came   to  .'lainu  as 
L'raiiddaniihtcr  of  Vesi.uccius,  a  dowry  lVom  the  American 
people.     C'on-;'re>s.  whil>t  comimsed  of  men  who  were  indi- 
vidnallv  capahle  of  admirinii'  the  charms  of  thi>  heaiitilul 
(Jenoese,  jitdjrt''!  '''  /'/-./-^.s' (and    I   eoiiirratiilate  theiii  oi.  it) 
to  send  hack  to  the  conntrv  wheiv  they  hnil.l  .-astles  in  tho 
air  the  claims  of  tlie  (h's.'i'iidant   of  the  c-,,dfather  ol   oiir 
eoniilrv.      The    lu'aiitifnl    adventuress   was    much    pitied, 
mn.h 'loved   hv  the  men,  nnich   hated  hy  thi>  women  (the 
one  is  the  con-c(iiience  of  the  other),  pa.-seil  throiiuh  every 
phase  of  ceh.l.ritv,  that    is  to  say.  that   the  former  placed 
licr  upon  a  pedestal,  and  the  latter  tried  to  upset  it  inlothe 
mini.      Like  the  stars,  she  had  her  zenith,  and  hei;  wttin«r, 
and  she  was  noon  foru^ottcii.     Aincriea    Vespucci,   tossed 
durinu'  twenty  years  hy  the  eliaiices  of  fortune,  hecame 
stranded  soiiie\ears  since  on  tho  hanks  of  th»"  St,  Lawrence, 
whciv  an  old'inillionaire  otfered   to  her.  under  colour  ot 
iiidenmitv,  1    HupiMise,  for  the   injustice  of  the  leirislators 
of  his  country,  tlie  sovi'reijrnity  of  the  mairniticeiit  mansion 
where  she  coiu'calcd  herself. 

She  ma<le  me  visit  the  park,  the  aviary,  the  lihrary,  tho 
marhle  haths.  \  was  da/.zled  with  all  the  splendours  of  this 
little  Kdeii,  hidden  like  a  nest  in  the  mos:^  "Paris,  she 
said  to  me  si.yhing,  -Paris '.—without  my  fortune  aial 
tweiitv  veal's  less!" 

'Phe  poor  Vecluse  irave  mo  to  i.eih-rstaiid  that  the  Jionest 
()oiU'iishiiri;-ers  did 'not  treat  her  with  respeef.  Envious 
of  her  taste,  lier  travels,  her  fortune,  and  her  power  (.ver 
a  ri.-li  old  fellow,  wliom,  witliout  any  donht,  the  jirovident 
mothers  destined  '//(  7W/0'  to  tho  honour  of  heins;  their 
Bon-iii-law,  and   antriy  that  a  stranger  had   dared  to  mo- 


1 


280 


NOTES  OF  A  PI  A  MS  T. 


nopolizo  all  ih\i^  fortuno,  and  that,  by  troaduig  iiii.Ut  Oot 
all  the  laws  of  that  dead  morality  which  vc  aiy  all  so 
liai.i.v  to  invoke  when  wo  are  not  ahlc  to  ernsh  those 
whitm  we  <lo  n..t  love— the  honest  ].eoi.le  of  ([.unloLshnrs; 
had  raised  little  hy  little  an.nnd  her  one  of  tlvwe  n.snr- 
mountahle  walls  made  np  of  hativd,.iiulonsy  and  ..t  seeivt 
maliee  eemented  hv  that  sour  virtue  ot  small  towns.  ^  u^ 
never  went  out,  saw  nobody,  and  wqit  al.me  under  tl.e 
heautiful  trees  of  her  park,  whilst  the  birds  warbled  on 

the  branehes.  ,  i>   i  •    •       i    . 

I  conversed  a  lout?  time  with  her  about  l{ubnn,  whom 
she  had  well  knowirat  the  salon  of  Madame  Merlm,  where 
she  freciuently  visited.  .    .    i 

I  asked  to-day  what  had  hecoinc  ot  her.  She  started 
asain  one  fine  morning  for  Paris,  said  some— she  is  <lea.l, 

said  others.  ,  ^.  ,    , 

C'oneert  this  cveninic.  ^ot  a  large  audience  hut  sympa- 
thetic. I  d(»  not  know  how  L  was  able  to  play;  i  am 
enfeeltled.     All  the  pieces  encored. 

April  30. 

J\  constable  has  come  to  arrest  me,  by  order  of  the 
prcMdent  of  the  village  (it  is  thus  the  mayor  calls  him 
self)  for  not  haviuir  taki'U  out  a  license,  audi  am  con 
denmed  to  pay  a  tine  of  fifty  dollars  I  -o  with  the  c 
stable  to  the  justice  of  the  peace,  and  here  is  the  expositum 
of  the  aitair 'such  as  the  justice  of  the  peacegaye  it  w'lth 
admirable  candour.  "Mr.,  it  is  true  tlmt  it  is  the  custom 
for  us  to  send  in  advance  to  collect  the  five  dollars  tor  the 
license,  but  as  the  mayor  said  that  the  constable  whom  he 
Ind  sent  last  year  nuule  known 'to  torn  that  you  had  then 
refused  to  pay  ami  had  insulted  by  words  the  authorities, 
he  has  proposed  to  punish  yc^..  for  it  by  letting  you  give 
vour  concert  without  forewarning  you  that  a  iK-eiise  was 
•   nee-  <sarv,  in  order  to  U^  able  to  tine  you  fifty  dollars. 

.admirable  simplicity!  and  behold  here  .lustice  well 
administered.  Here  am  I  condemned  to  pay  fifty  dollars 
because  a  constable  who  does  not  know  ine  .a"<l  f>''t<^""d^ 
verhaps  Jones  (who  has  insulted  him)  with  Cottschalk 
whom  he  has  never  seen,  makes  a  false  statement  to  a 


•011- 

'on- 


Tin:  CAI'SI/.ED  r CHOOSER. 


2S1 


roacHng  ninli'i-  loot 
licli  A»()  art'  all  so 
)le  to  orusli  llioso 
j)le  of  Otrdi'Jislairi!; 
nil'  of  tl>.'>si!  iiisur- 
ousy,  and  of  secret 
small  towns.  She 
t  iilono  uuiler  llie 
birds  Avarbled  ou 

out  Iviihini,  whom 
lame  Mei-liii,  where 

'  her.     She  started 
some — she  is  dead, 

udieiico  hut  sympa- 
ble  to  play;  1  am 


April  30. 

e,  by  order  of  the 
e  mayor  calls  him- 
iisc,  and  I  am  eou- 

I  go  with  the  eon- 
3VC  is  the  exposition 

peace  ji'ave  it  with 
hat  it  is  the  custtmi 

live  dollars  for  the 
:  constable  whom  he 

that  you  ba<l  then 
•rds  the  authorities, 
by  lettincr  you  give 

that  a  license  was 
HI  tifty  dollars." 
here    justice   well 

to  ]iay  tifty  dollars 
\'  me  and  confounds 
n)  with  Gottsehalk 
iilse  statement  to  a 


despotic  mayor  who  revenges  himself  on  me  by  laying  a 
snare! 

Fortnnately,  I  got  out  of  it. 

Sunday,  May  1,  18()4. 

Spleeiil  s}i'.eenl',  sjileenll!  The  streets  are  deserti'd — T 
see  the  crowds  returning  from  religious  si'r\ice.  ^'oung, 
irn'proachalile,  singulai'ly  ni'at,  alter  the  iilthiness  ot"  our 
soldiers,  this  appears  to  me  so  mnch  the  m()reextrai>rdinary. 

We  end)ark  at  live  o'clock  on  the  Ottawa,  a  small  sti'anu'r 
which  crosses  from  Kingston  to  ("ape  St.  \'inci'iit  in  two 
hours.  We  shall  sleep  there  and  then  shall  set  out  tor  W'ater- 
town.  The  wind  blows  furiously  and  our  })oor  little  boat 
rocks  dreadfully.  Mr.  Strakosch,  Avho  is  not  a  <!:ood  sjiiloi-, 
and  who  a  few  moments  since  became  I'ale,  seeks  the 
solitude  of  the  captain's  cabin.  I  go  up  on  deck.  We  pass 
alongside  of  a  pretty  schooner  of  which  we  only  see  the 
prow.  She  capsized  live  days  ago  in  one  of  those  storms 
so  sudden  and  so  terrible  on  Lake  Ontario.  She  presented 
a  most  singular  elfect,  lying  on  her  side  with  her  sails 
spread,  her  anchor  down,  her  hull  ex|)osed,  and  her  masts 
beating  like  the  legs  of  some  giii'antic  animal  struggling 
convulsively.  This  recalled  to  my  mind  the  ]painful  im- 
pression which  the  death  of  a  horse  always  make<  iii  the 
bull  lights.  There  is  jiarticularly  at  the  end  of  his  agony 
a  mechi'.nical  movement  of  the  feet  which  act  distractedly 
as  if  they  wished  to  walk  in  the  air.  It:  makes  me  sick 
only  to  think  of  it. 

We  enter  into  a  narrow  canal  which  leads  to  Cape  St. 
Vincent,  The  Ixuit  lands  at  a  spruce  little  hotel  on  the 
biutk  of  the  lake.  A  tall  old  man  gives  us  a  welcome,  the 
more  assiduous,  aa  his  hotel  is  at  this  moment  emitty,  and 
we  are  nine. 

His  daughters,  charming  young  ])ersons,  ])ink  and  white, 
wait  uiioii  v.s  at  table.  Excellent  supper.  Fried  trout, 
caught  in  the  lake. 

May  2. 

Slept  badly.  The  ra'.j  hive  feasted  all  night  under  one 
of  the  feet  of  my  bed,  and  iiave  ki'pt  me  awake. 

"We  start  at  six  o'clock  for  Watertown.     Keach  there  at 

24* 


n 


I 


282 


sotj:s  of  a  piamst. 


i.i.-ht  o'clock  in  the  luoniinir.  ^N  o  givo  a  oonoort  .o-.lay  at 
Hovcn  o'clock,  bocauso  the  ^vorknlcl^  I  do  not  knmv  ot  what 
fa'-torv.  .nvo  a  l.all  in  tlic  same  liall,  ^vlllcll  is  to  bcgni  at 
uint'  '"."clock.  Andicnce  kiiul,  and  very  enthusiastic.  L  n- 
f.n-tnnatclv  avo  arc  timl  out.  The  want  of  ^\^-^V/Yl'^  i"^; 
ii  I.nzzin.''in  tlie  ears,  and  from  the  hrst  notes  1  teel  that  i 
.liall  hanllv  he  able  to  play  to  the  end  of^  the  i.rojrran.n.e. 
This  \vcek\ve  have  slej-t  on  an  average  tivo  hours  ni  tlio 
twenty-four,  and  travelled  every  day. 

May  3. 

Left  Watcrtown  for  Utica.  .    n    .    a  i 

The  vooulation  of  Utica  is  from  thirty  to  fort.v  thousand 
souls.  Tliere  arc  some  heantiful  churches,  1  nnity  church, 
among  others,  in  which  I  have  ni^ticed  an  excellent  organ, 
built  bv  a  musical  instrument  maker  of  the  town.  S-mo 
of  the  "streets  arc  lined  by  trees,  whose  tuck  ioliage  tonus 
a  delicious  shade.  Ihit  what  particularly  attracts  the  at- 
ti-ntion  of  travellers  in  Utica  is  its  asylum  i..r  the  insane, 
Avhich  is  one  of  the  most  coiuplete  establishments  on  the 
American  continent.  The  head  laiysician  ot  the  hospital 
is  one  of  our  friends,  lie  is  hardly  more  sane  on  the  sub- 
icct  of  music  than  ins  patients.  .  ^      .  ,-,  ,. 

It  pours  rain,  and  I  fear  that  the  receipts  oi  the  ccnccit 
this  evening  will  be  very  poor.  •  .  ,i  „,o 

A'erv  warm  audience.  Utica  has  ahvays  receued  mo 
well.  ""I  am  always  listened  to  witli  kualne  *  tliere,  and 
alwava  wannlv  applauded.  ..  ,  r.     ^i      • 

The  .loctor  takes  me  to  sleep  at  the  ho'.pital  tor  the  in- 
sane The  doctors  and  attendants  inhabit  the  hi(;_adc  ot  tlie 
immense  ..uadrilateral  which  the  hospitalncrupies.  It  18 
eleven  o'cloc-k.  The  doctor  invites  me  up  mto  his  chamber 
to  smoke,  he  his  pipe,  I  my  cigi.  .  Our  conversation  at 
iiivt  languishes  as  when  given  up  entirely  to  tlio  pleasure 
of  having  nothimr  to  do,  and  the  spirit  i-slows  with  i-ro- 
found  solicitude  the  si-irals  of  cigar  sn^oke  as  it  unrolls 
in  the  air,  and  dis,  lays  its  forms  before  (lisai.j -earing.  L 
asked  the  (loct(U-  if  he  had  ever  occupied  honsclt  with 
spiritual  manifestations,  which  for  the  last  httcrn  years 
have  troubled  the  United  States,  and  whicli  at  certain 
periods  ac(iuire  new  life  by  the  apparition  ..t  some  extra- 


ISTERVENTION  OF  SPIRITS— ADSUHD. 


283 


concert  '.o-day  at 
ii()t  know  of  what 
ich  irt  to  begin  at 
■iitlinsiastic.  I'n- 
ol"  pli'i'j)  LTivt's  me 
notes  I  tVvl  lliat  I 
t'  the  i>ro<2;raninio. 
live  lioiirs  in  the 


May  3. 

'to  forty  thousand 
.'s,  Trinity  church, 
n  excellent  oriran, 
'  the  town.  Smu; 
hick  foliage  forms 
•ly  attracts  the  at- 
Unn  for  the  insane, 
hlishments  on  the 
ian  of  the  hospital 
IV  sane  on  the  sub- 

}ipt9  of  the  concert 

Iways  received  mo 
cindne  ^  there,  and 

hospital  for  the  in- 
)it  thefa(;ade  of  the 
tal  occupies.  It  is 
1]  into  his  chamber 
)ur  conversation  at 
rely  to  tho  pleasure 
it  !;n1ows  with  jiro- 
^n!oke  as  it  unrolls 
re  disappcarinir.  I 
iipied  himself  with 
ic  last  Hficrn  years 
1  \vhich  at  certain 
itloii  t)f  some  extra- 


ordinary iihenomcnon.  The  Xew  York  ]iapi'rs  for  some 
(lavs  have  been  full  of  the  I'xtraordinary  tbinu-s  done  by  the 
l)ii\cnport  brothers.  I  myscit'  saw  them  at  St.  l^oiiis,  and 
will  tell  you  hereafter  the  fai-ts  which  I  have  witnessed. 
The  doctor  said  to  me,  what  all  staid  people  candidly  tell 
me  here,  "I  do  not  know  what  to  think.  '  There  is  certainly 
one  or  some  iilu'nonieiia  which  evade  M'ieiiee,  and  are  con- 
nected with  some  unknown  principle,  iVom  which  elec- 
trieitv,  and  all  the  i)henomena  of  second  sij,ht,  of  sonuiam- 
bulisin,  of  mesmerism  probably  proceed.  As  to  beru'viiit;' 
in  the  intervention  of  spirits,  and  niakini!;  a  newM'evelation 
of  it,  that  is  simply  absurd.  "I  was  (it  is  the  doctor  who 
sjieaks)  at  Port  Hope  some  time  since.  One  of  my  frit'iids, 
aiipointed  by  the  government  to  do  some  work  for  the 
establishmeilt  of  a'  railroad,  had  to  live  in  a  large  stone- 
ho  ise  which  had  been  place(l  at  his  disposition.  The  house 
had  belonged  to  an  old  fur  trader,  who  had  fre(iuently  com- 
mitted acts  of  vio'.i'nee  during  his  life,  anil  hail  made  him- 
self particularly  h:;ted  by  the  Indians  who  sold  their  peltry 
to  him;  he  had  robbed  many  of  them,  said  some  one,  and 
added  in  a  low  voice  that  he  had  assassinated  some  oi'  them. 
Whether  or  not  merited,  the  bad  rejintation  of  the  fur 
tradi'r  had  become  provi.Tbial,  and  since  bis  death  the  house, 
some  said,  was  haunted,  and  afti'rwards  the  iidiabitants  told 
me  every  night  the  ghost  of  X.  stal.ced  through  all  the 
chambers."  The  doctor  and  his  friend  slcjit  in  the  first  story. 
The  invisible  ghost  (no  one  had  ever  sOeii  it,l)Ut  it  had  bei'U 
heard  breathing,  walking,  coughhig)  always  made  itself 
heard  the  first  night  the  new  occupant  ]iasscd  in  thi' house. 
Before  going  to  bed  the  doctor  and  his  friend  went  over 
the  house  from  the  cellar  to  the  garret.  They  sjiut  up  all 
the  siM-vants  in  their  chambers,  and  minutely  examined  the 
large  lower  hall  paved  with  stone,  situateil  exactly  under 
the  apartment  where  they  were  to  sleej),  and  in  which  the 
spirit  i)referred  to  make  himself  heard.  All  the  doors  lead- 
ing into  the  hall  were  ludtcd,  t'xccpt  tha.t  which  led  to  the 
first  story.  Retired  to  their  cbaml)ers,  the  two  strangers 
waited.  The  hours  jiassed  on — nothing  was  heard  save  the 
noise  of  their  breatliing — and  at  last,  tired  of  waiting  for 
nothinii',  thev  went  to  bed,  certain  of  having  once  more 
put  an  emrto  chimerical  fears,  and  moi-e  tlian  ever  eon- 


284 


yOTES  OF  A  PIASIST. 


vinrol  tl...t  d,nrt»  only  exist  ■.,.  in,«ginatio,„  Jisoasccl  or 

■''T'^-  ,'^Y:'tk:1u' ;",'"., ::  «;  ;i?o  '"u  «.■  'x-fu-ans, 

Avho  look  like  lauuci^  .>ii  ,  „„>  tlwit  tlicv  liad  come 

,,H,,aron.v.rom,arrass.da^^ 

to  sec  these  uew  Arcaaians  at  work. 

Sykacusk,  May  4. 

T  knoV  of  Syracuse  only  the  two  pavomcnts  close  to  the 

1  kno\\  oi    }  'I  ,^    railroad  station  (bad  hotel,  b}- 

^^i^'^lSJ     ^  ::^ol^  eXivours  to  make  the   ^ 

;i-ni:^i:;i;:the  m  of  ^------i::^^^^.,  !;i 

trains  arrive,  leave,  cross  each  "f  ^:  .^;M^,  ^;:  J  ^^  ^t  ,m-le^ 

blind,  be  well  assured   bat  theie  i«  ^ '^  ^^^  ^^^^  ,,,,iid 

railways,  for  more  uwlcpeudent  enteipii.t^ 

'' Ailiilencc  quite  numerous  and  very  dilettante. 


OSWEGO— AUDURX. 


285 


tions  tViHcased  or 

'1  by  the  way,  the 
wished  to  see  me. 
)  two  young  men 
,80  of  Ainencaiis, 
lat  they  had  come 
eoiu-ert,  and  that, 
by  it  for  the  pur- 
I  of  II  eonnmmity 
To  my  (inestion 
L'd  by  the  goveru- 
Vom  six  years  ago. 
•y  have  tiVteen  huu- 
id  use  no  tol)aeeo. 
They  have  formed 
the  evening  on  re- 
family  assendtles,  a 
ven.     The  ehief  of 
lie  tlieir  hospitality 
oept;  1  am  curious 

Syracusk,  May  4. 
•ements  close  to  the 
ition  (bad  hotel,  by- 
to  make  the   good 
es,  uncatal)le.     The 
vithont  ceasing  and 
^sing  at  right  angles 
iseme  an  inexhaust- 
o  or  three  hundred 
iifusiop  ?     "Vou  cross 
:e  care  1'  cries  a  man 
rain  that  hacks  and 
lic'h  take  fright.     It 
drunkards,   and   the 
10  for  the  American 
•prises   no  one  could 

dilettante. 


Svraouse,  without  being  different  from  some  small  towns 
whiVh  1  have  visited,  always  gives  me  a  good  audu'nce.  L 
however  know  nobody  or  nearly  so,  and  have  no  personal 
friends  there. 

May  G,  ISlM. 

Leave  again  for  Oswego  at  half-past  tvo  o'clock  W  M. 
Arrive  at  tive  o'clock.  _ 

Uswe.'o  is  remarkable  for  its  pictures(iiio  situation.      I  lie 
concert  "lias  been  charming.     1  always  play  with  pleasure 
at  Oswe.m.     They  listen  to  me  with  attention  •.  1  am  always 
enthusia'^stically  applauded  there.     Do   not  hasten  to  con- 
clude that  because  I  always  go  back  therewith  j,  .asure, 
the  receipts  are  good,  for  witli  me  the  one  is  not  the  co.i- 
se<iuenee  of  the  other.      There  are  some  towns  where  I 
always  make  money  and  which  I  do  not  like,  and  othcis 
where  I  make  nothing  an.l  yet  like  to  go.     1  know  that 
this  is  abstu-d,  that  reasonable  men  will  shrug  their  sionl- 
ders  at  it;  but  you  know  that  artists  understand  but_  little 
about  business  and  have  but  little  forc.sig;l.t.  _  '1  here  is  one 
thing  that  money  cannot  rule:  it  is  the  mspiration  ot  the 
artist. 

Fritlav,  May  6. 

Sot  out  ao-ain  from  Oswcffo  at  half-past  seven  V.  M.  for 
Geneva,  wliere  we  arrived  on  the  seventh,  ot  .May  at  tour 
o'clock.  We  travel  since  the  morning  through  a  succession 
of  lakes  with  which  the  State  of  New  ;j  ork  id.ounds  1  lie 
smallest  of  these  lakes  is  as  larjre  as  Lake  Nv'^;!'-'  .^^l-  ^ 
have  counted  as  many  as  forty-three  in  the  ^^^^'^^^^^^ 
York  alone.  Geneva  possesses  a  medical  school,  an  hpisco- 
l,al  seminary,  an  independent  college,  an.l  several  boardmg- 
Sools  for-yomig  Uulies.  I  have  met  here  a  dyspep  ic 
lltlish  musician,  wh..,  with  the  greatest  taith  m  the  wor  d, 
maintains  that  England  has  pro.luced  the  best  musicians 
ami  the  best  composei-s  in  the  world!  Concert  jiassable, 
and  audience  very  kind. 

Saturday  mnrninp:,  May  7. 
Loft  again  for  Auburn.     Concert  magnificent,  all  the 
pieces  encored.     Li  the  hall  a  charming  battalion  of  young 


I 


2H<> 


yOTES  OF  A  PIASrST. 


I* 


^     !;    It  Vlav  :m  air?"  and  alYor  tlm-c  l'^^^^^^  ^^'^  ^  ^: 

tllmi.l,  are  oonfus.,!,  an.l  (Ik-  (•oi.,i.la...ts  begin  that  tlicic  i» 

""  v''';r..o.l  onou.'li  conooi-t  at  Auburn.    I  board  a  la.ly 

A  gciml  ™""j'  „  iloatciiiiig  ra.-kot  bo  iiiakca  with 

going  out  «l\,      w  lull  a  ui.uliiim.  t  l,-ivp  often 


SUPEltlOniTY  OF  AMKIIICAN  WOMKX. 


287 


ho  romciiihnincc 
:li  hcuvc'd  l)y  tlio_ 
In;  mistbrtinio  of 

K'o  (Vul  not  cease 
on  then  are  thi-y 
iooos  by  Mail.  S., 
)V  six  solos,  lie  re- 
nd he  went  away 
ishod  toU'ani  how 

enoval,w*'<^'"  you 
to  his  friends  that 
two  firs,  the  one 
,  not!     Onoofmy 
ly  concerts  ho  was 
honiselvcs  for  the 
11  the  third  i>art  I 
variations.     They 
)n,  'Homo,  Sweet 
j>ivvent    the   good 
injr  toi)lav  'Homo, 
lained  bitterly  that 
t  play.     The  ear  ot 
thev  only   nnder- 
tinually  hear  from 
niple,  the   hideoiiB 
summer'  (oven  this 
re  nmst  be  only  ths 
riations,  absolutely 
them  to   recognize 
iient,  they  lose  the 
s  begin  tliat  there  is 

1.  I  heard  a  lady 
I'kct  ho  makes  with 
a  it."  I  have  often 
at  I  always  played 
[rh  noise.  O  critics  I 
re  not  so  amusing  I 


Sundny,  May  8. 
r>oen  to  (\itholic  clnu'ch  and  heard  mass.     Kxei-ralik' 


nusicl  Origan  played  liy  a  young  girl  who  made  impossi- 
.lU'  harmonics.  Soi'mon  "very  long.  The  pri'achcr  screamed 
loud  cnoui;li  totire  his  lungs.'  The  congregation  was  utfectod. 


m 
1 


May  it. 

Bet  out  a<!;ain  from  Auburn  at  seven  o'clock  in 
the  morning  tor  Koclii'ster,  where  I  arrived  at  a  ([Uartcr 
]iast  olevon^o'clock.  Charming  town;  one  of  the  neatest, 
most  animated,  and  most  civilized  of  the  West.  Mv  con- 
certs luri'  are  always  protitablo  and  my  audicnio  always 
Avcll  disposed.  Concert  tliis  evening  i  xcellent.  I  should 
like  to  transptu't  hi  a  lum]),  for  the  edification  of  Europe, 
some  of  the  audiences  which  come  under  my  notice. 

The  feminine  tviie  in  tlie  United  States  is  undoilbtedly 
superior  to  that  of  Europe.  Pretty  young  girls  are  a 
maioritv  in  American  audiences,  wliilst  in  Eiu'ope  they 
are  an  exception.  IJosidos  the  education  of  women,  taken 
on  an  averaVo,  is  more  complete  here,  American  women, 
■with  their  delicate  sentiments  aiic  *^he  intelligence  which 
our  system  of  education  devoloi>s  united  to  the  iiative 
oloijance  of  their  sex,  will  do  more  than  all  the  legislators 
in  ^the  world  to  polish  men,  and  to  circumscribe^  within 
judicious  limits  the  turbulent  ett'.'rvescence  which  is  fountl 
at  the  surliice  of  all  new  societies.  Without  them,  'whiskey' 
and  the  'revolver'  would  completely  overrun  t  <.  \>y  tlioir 
soft  but  powerful  intluence,  our  manner^*,  little  by  little, 
become  softened;  and  I  foresee  the  day  when  a  drunkard 
will  be  treated  according  to  his  habits,  that  is  to  say,  like 
a  brute,  and  when  those  who  are  always  ready  to  draw 
their  revolver  will  bo  punished  as  assassins. 

At  I^H'hester  I  have  seen  some  of  the  most  charming 
typos  of  women  that  have  ever  crossed  the  dreams  of  an 
old  bachelor !  Outside  of  my  excey>tional  position  of  ].iamst 
and  old  bachelor,  this  i^  the  element  which  I  dread  the  most 
in  my  concerts — it  gives  mo  absence  of  mind,  and  a  wrong 
noto'^is  verv  quicklv  struck!  Suppose  I  have  to  make  a 
leap  to  roach  a  black  kov  at  the  extremity  of  my  koy-boai-d. 
I  take  my  measure  well,  but  tlie  Cai)itol  is  close  to  the  lar- 
peian;  my  finger,  not  well  assured,  because  my  eyes  are  on 


ff 


288 


NOTi:S  OF  A  I'lAyi'^T. 


i.no,M-u.iously  i.m.,p.taU..l  ''f '/^  '  ,  ''    : 'j    >      -V    cf  the 
,„tural-to   n.y   '•'>''^^'?y/:!  '  "V.rl.    ti,       out    d.tW-t. 

^""'^"  ''  Tt  Nl'r   X    lo    u  'novor  l.con  al.l.  to  ^lay  the 
sinMioso  tliat  -Ml.  a.,  «i''  ,       i  ,,i,l.  jvasoii  that 

,„!,;i,.  ,.!■  ...iK'vj,  ..«"■  1"-  r',;:;i " hi'  m  '  "  «■  ■■•■«ii»'i) 

tl,..  lattvr  is  sllU  in  a  i.nm.t,.    .  .      0    u  ^  .^^J 

,„„1  l„.y„„.l  l.U  ,«.T^vr^U•t    l;,",      ',„-.. .n  nnvll', 

\';^p£tL:^!::'^''^"^''^ "';"- 

old  tricks.  jr^  1    ^^  ,,,,1,  iiijiv  clnssical 

^r^^.^;:.:'t.i''\ri;;hi^ 
^^'i;;:^r:;^r^^"Lhi.aoni>y^.^ 

.oratchin.  .without    ^nng.'    l^hc'  tUmraod  t^> 

are  in  their  J''<l^^"^f'^^^'  \^^ -"'X-.  ^  li^l-lavH  »^kill  hy 
them.  One,  who  is  "<^^1'^'^^'  ;^^^*;,  ,,  /o/./.a.'' 
attaekin.ii  those  who  are  /''"'^V^?;,!/.:  easily  c-au-ht. 
oU-  Oi  e  lias  nothinjr  t«>  ^o^^S  '"''^  V"'*"  '\"  u' Lne  cele- 
tM.  Monte  Mayer;a  vulgar  p^su'nu.uj.  ^  X^^L 
l>rate.l  in  S^nin  by  givms^  a  eour  e  "^^^  '  .J  ,,„„terfeit 
,,roves  that  Newton  was  a  ^'^^  '      "^"^'^  i,t-mselves  an^ 

ions  eauso  tear  beeanse  thev  "^^^^  7,  [''[f'J/J ',"'        of  the 
,oneeal  their  voiee  but,  l>y,'-^;;:^,^lS^t. Reives  that 

king  of  the  forest,  tlK>y  ^""<  ,  \f  ;  f  "'f^       then  that  we 


'</  KXO]r  AN  ASS." 


289 


ic  tifld,  slips,  aiul 
,  for  ('XiUiipK'— >« 
laian  tU'ptlis  "f  K 
I)   the  joy   of  the 
itinir    out    defeets 
il  will  ill  (lis«(«ver- 
1  fo;-  iiU  of  lis  Avho 
our  ucitrlihoiir  to 
V  own  US'.',     l-i^'t  11=^ 
•11  ahli'  to  I'liiy  the 
(louhle  reason  that 
I'vcr  to  lie  rfali/A'd) 
.  that  he  falls  witlj 
uiist— upon  myself, 
how  himself  iMO(h'- 
..'    How  as  to  that? 
,(ly  for  the  nej,n-oes! 
inLi;  into  ai'eoiint  the 

)t'ft  not  jilay  classical 
of  mortals  applaud, 
loil  man,  ])e  ]iru(lent 

0  more  you  heinire 
nir  venomous  im]ier- 

1  am  more  than  you. 

ha  lion's  skin,  eausc 
or  tlie  lion  l»y  ""'y 
nore  merciless  they 
alent  is  conceded  to 
Vrt  displays   skill  hy 

iols  are  easily  cauglit. 
•iun,  has  become  ee  e- 
Icc-tures  in  Avhich  lie 
Rut  these  counterfeit 
fori'-et  themselves  and 
lavniii-  the  part  of  the 
idiniT  themselves  that 
r.  It  is  then  that  we 
.  fraud  is  discovered, 


and  everybody  lauiihs.  They  themselves  never  perceive 
it,  and  ('(.ntii'iue  u'l'iively  to  shake  their  asses'  ears  over 
their  mani'.  i  know  an  ass  well,  who,  aftt'r  haviiit;  devoted 
his  pen  for  ten  years  in  provini;  to  the  artistic  world  that 
niv  compositions  were  detestaldc,  was  advised,  iniserahle 
wretch,  to  laihlish  in  an  unlucky  day  one  ol  the  hicuhra- 
tions  of  his  pen  and  of  his  _u;a  fdled  hrainl  1  coidess  tliat, 
until  the  luoment  that  this  liaupy  composition  fi-11  into  my 
hands,  1  had  thouu-ht  myself  killed  hy  the  attacks  of  this 
severe  Aristarchus;  hut',  after  haviui-;  read  it,!  consoled 
myself  hv  addressing;  to  him  '  //(  y>(7/o'  this  apostrophe, 
wiiich  T 'borrowed  from  Voltaire:  "Sir:  1  panlon  your 
eriticisms  because  nobody  reads  them,  hut  1  shall  ncvi'r 
parcUni  your  compositions  because  I  have  been  oiditred  to 
read  them,  and  they  are  too  bad  for  me  ever  to  forget 
them." 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

May  10. 

Ret  out  again  fi-om  Rochester. 

I  recominend  'Congress  Uall'  to  all  travellers  who  attach 
anv  importance  to  an  ext'cllent  table,  proiiqit  attention,  and 
airaffable  an<l  attentive  welcome  from  a  landlord. 

Arrived  at  Lockport  at  two  o'clock.  It  pours  rain  —the 
streets  are  lakes  of  mud — every  gutter  is  a  cataract.  I 
confess  that  if  I  was  the  public  I  would  pay  double  what 
one  of  my  tickets  costs  not  to  go  to  the  concert  this  evening. 

Few  at  the  concert ;  but  those  who  have  bra.v'd  the  in- 
clemency of  such  weather  are  evidently  miisic-1  amateurs, 
and  I  did  my  best.  ^Vfy  princiiile  is,  the  smaller  the  aiidi- 
emte  the  more  I  ayiply  myself.  Artists  in  general  act  ditt'er- 
ently  uiuK'r  the  same  circumstances.  Are  the  receipts  small, 
you  see  them  assume  an  indifferent  air,  ]day  or  sing  by 
halves,  cut  down  their  pieces,  shorten  their  programme; 
and  in  acting  thus  they  are  ungrateful,  illogical,  unjust, 
dishonest,  uiul  unworthy  the  name  of  artists.  Ungrateful, 
25 


200 


A'or/^.s-  or  A  rrAMsT. 


l„.c.nu^i'  tlu'V  milk.'  th.ir  ba.l  l.u.noiir  U'nr  upon  tl.oso  avI.o 
tirim v^u  n^        to  tlu-.r  tUvour.     rnjiist,  lu...u,s.  tl.oso 

•      .w,      ,rm.,rt  sl.ouia  ..ot   Ik.  .vspuMs  1.1.  lor  t.o  absent. 

TlWrS,   . Uus.  one  nu^ht  bet  .uTVtbn,,  [bat  tbos..  wbo 

I  in,  to  a  .'.navrt  brave  ibe  obstacles  wbub  bave  layvent  e.l 
f  ..•tvtnm,.oin^,  are. nu- judges  otnM.s.,N^ 

le    ta„.l-it,  aM.rtoNvbo,n   ,be  aH.st,  .y!''''"  ;!»     'T^ 
,  ,,,,-,ate(l,  sbouia  en<K..vo..r  to  present  Inn.selt    n.    n^ 
i   :         ibt.      l)isbo,a.st,  beeanse  tbe  person  vvbo  bas  ,.a,.     o 
St  eketbasa  rb-bt  to  .U-n.ana  all  .bat  ,s  ,.r..nusea  on  tbe 
.^.unnle-  an-Ciinally,  tbev  are  nnwortby  -1  tbe..;  yn.- 
;U.n    beea.ise  tbe  love  of  b.ece  is  u.tb  tbeni  JTivate.  tl  .  .. 
t   a       t'  a.-t   a.ul  be  is  u..t  a  t.M.e  a.-tist  wbo  n.easn.ys  tbe 
n   >^        '    !;,.s  and  inspin.tua.s  wbu-b  l^ow  iVo.n  b.s  son 
be  sum  of  .lolla.-s  a.al  cents  wbleb  bave  on te  e.l  ... 
is  eott'e.-      l..s|.i.-ation  is  not  .•on....a...le.l,     k.um  n.     I  be 

1  1     cV.  .1.1  ..<.   eo......a..a  it  to.-  its  .nonev.  Tbe  (..•o,^.-a..m.o 

' ,  (  t  lea.l  tbe.n  t..  tbink  so,b..t,  to  be  true  to  tben.seK  es, 

;C  :^   mlil  .lo  wbat  tbey  on^bt_  to  do      As  to  n.s,..n.tu.n 

Us  in,le..e...le..t  of  tbe  will,     it   bas  bai.l.e..e.\  to    ne  to 

l.v  1.     -blV  before  erowded  balls,  and     .eto.-e  intelhire.. 

iene  s;  and  o,.  tbeeont,-a.y  to,.lay  in  vdlap,a,.d  bet.,  e 

;;;;;rK,,,..es\vbo  ba.-dly  ..nde.-stood  it,  in  Hueb  away  as  to 

please  myself,  a  very  dillicult  tb.ng . 

Wednosday,  May  11. 

Sot  ont  acaiii  from  Lookport  for  Toronto  (<^^'^;'»'^;^>         , 
Awakene.l  at  six  oVloek  tb.s  mo.-..n..ir  by  ti 'd  n  . 
gone.     Ts  it  possible  tbat  i,.  tbis  nu.e  ec-ntb  cr..  ...-> ,    >     h^ 
Sn.U  of  a  rep..blie,  i.^  a  eivili^od  ^^-y-^"^^^:^^     i^^ 
of  ba.-ba.-ism  sbould  not  yet  bo  abol.s.o.H     A\    at      i  a 
in  a  botol.     I  pay  for  tbo  purpose  ot  ii..dn.,!X  tbe.-e  boa.d 
u^d  I'ldn.,  -lli^-h  inebides"  sleep.     I  an.  -dber  .     e^a 
nor  o-iill(.v-slavo,  nor  slave,  m.ieh  loss  a  sold.e.-,  t  at  is  l. 
Z  Ian  not  obli^e.l  to'be  subje<-te.l  to  diseiplino;  an. 
mil'ortiioss  an  aut'ooratie  landlord,  .vbom  I  pay  in  on;' 
t,  n.moto  my  eomfoi-t,  sball  bavo  tbe  ri.bt  to  vt;' -^ 
destroy  my  slJep,  and  bnitallv  draw  n.e  t.-om  in>        -e  at 
any  bour  tbat  shall  pU-ase  bin.,  as  if  1  ^yo.•o  lis  V    '        >  • 
and  you  and  I  suppo,-t  tbis  ba.-bar...is  tyram.y  .'.    >        '^.,"^'* 
hose  around  me  murmurs.     Custom  is  eyerytlung  w  ith  tho 


,i.v  r:\ronri  .\.\n-:  s/:nMoy. 


201 


r  U]ion  tlins(>  who 
1st,  l)i'(':uisc  tlmsi' 
.Ic  I'or  till'  iiliscnt. 
Ill'  tliiit  tliDsi'  wlici 
■li  liavo  jircvi'iiti'd 
L'rt  <»f  music,  \vlii> 
ciTtaiti  of  lii'iii|Li' 
it  liimsi'lt'   ill  111" 
1  who  liiirt  iiiiitl  lor 
is  |ir(iiiiisiil  on  the; 
itliy  ol'  tlirir  i>ro- 
tlicm  j^irateT  tliaii 
wlio  iiicasiu'i'rt  till- 
flow  iVoiii  liis  '^oul 
have  I'liti'ivtl  into 
.(1,1  know  i(.    Tlu- 
V.  'I'lu!  in'ojiTiinimo 
triu'  to  thi'msi'lvts, 
As  to  in>i>iratioiv 
liai-iic'iKMl  to  nie  to 
I   JK'foiv  inti'irnr»'"f 
villages,  antl  In't'ori; 
I  teuc'h  u  way  as  to 


Wcdni's.lay,  May  11. 

onto  (Canada), 
linsr  by  that  (.Mirsod 
.(■nrii  (rnti)ry,iH  tho 
•tv,  this  last  vostitjo 
loIl?     AVhat!     1  iini 
iindino;  thoir  hoard 
im  noitluT  colloirian, 
a  soldiiT,  that  is  to 
d  to  disciiilino;  and 
■horn  I  l>ay  in  order 
le  riijlit  to  violontly 
11'  from  my  ri'posc  at 
1  were  his  ^iroiterty: 
tvranny';     No  one  of 
^everything  with  the 


AntrloSnxoii.  The  empire  of  riMitiiie  liolil-  hini  in  lradni,LC_ 
striuiTs.  That  the  proprietor  of  a  hotel  shonld  think  yf 
oi'dennir  tiiat  hisu'iie.-ts  >liuiild  not  drink  more  tliaii  a  rcrtain 
(inanlit  V  daily,-  would  you  not  revolt  at  it '.'  1-  it  not  ncver- 
tln'h'ss"as  de~potif  to  reljuiri'  that  vou  should  he  awakened 
at  six  o'clock  in  the  inorninjr'^  ihit  as  tVoin  time  iiniiie- 
niorial,  hotel  keepers  have  arrotiated  to  thcinxhcs  the 
rioht  of  not  iiermitting  us  to  sleep  aftir  a  certain  hour, 
wi-  <iuii'tlv  sulimit  to  it.  .    .       , , 

it  pom's  rain.  The  heavens  ari'  like  leail,  and  it  is  cold; 
decidedly  tills  sprinir  is  liostiU-  tons;  for  one  month,  out 
of  twi'iit  V  soirees,  sixt(  en  at  least  have  hc(  n  with  a  pouriiii^^ 
vain.  Tiii're  foes  again  aiiolhi'r  leaf  toi'ii  from  the  tree  of 
niv  illusions.  This  l»eautiful  month  of  May,  so  poetical, 
tio' much  sung  hy  th.e  poets,  is  a  myth. 

Last  Siimlay  at  mass  the  jireachcr  took  for  the  suhject  of 
his  sermon  the  worship  which  the  Catholic  (  hurch  gives 
to  the  X'irLciii  Mary.     "The  heautifiil   month  of  May  has 
he("ii  especially  consecrated  to  her,"  ami  the  occasion  otlering 
itself  to  make  use  of  a  little  rhetoric,  hi'  commetK'cd  hy  pre- 
senting to  us  nature  awakening  in  the  spring,  the  '  uds  first 
hecomini!;  Ln-een,  the  tlowers  exhaling  their  perfumes  to  tho 
hree/e.   ^"Tlie  sun,  etc.  etc.  etc"  '  Here,  the  ^ky,  whi.'h 
lias  heen  cloudy  since  the  moniiiiir.  opened  to  let  jiass  (a 
ray  of  simrmhtl  you  will  wiy) — no!  lightning,  after  a  clap 
of' thunder,  followed  hy  a  (h'liige  of  rain,  mingled  with  hail. 
The  poor  jiriest,  who  had  prepared   his  sermon  in  prospect 
of  a  month  of  Ma\ ,  like  all  others,  was  completely  taken 
aback,  and  eoinpivheiKling  that   the  breeze,  jierfumed   by 
the  tlowi.rs,aiid  the  sun  no'  longer  agreed  with  a  iliill,  rainy 
month,  full  of  st(»rins,  tornadoes,  and  of  bad  designs,  re- 
siunied  himself  to  making  a  sacrifice  of  his  rhetoric,  and 
soon  finished  his  sermon. 

One  hour  of  detention  tit  TFamilton  rn  mute  for  loronto. 
Some  davs  since,  on  arriving  at  a  small  i>lace.  a  local  piiper 
fell  into  'our  hands,  ai.d  we  read  in  it  a  diatribe  of  one  hun- 
dred lines  against  fashionable  music,  the  Italians,  the  (ier- 
mans,  in  one  word,  airainst  every  species  of  art  which  is 
not  so  elevated  as  the'music  of  the  Christy  minstrels.  Our 
airent  had  neglected  to  trive  this  Athenian  my  announce- 
riTent,  and  lie^revenged  liimself  for  it  after  the  manner  ot 


202 


yoTEs  or  .1  /'/.i.wvr. 


nuLM-v  rWMrcu,  ul...  Wn\  tlu'iuKclvos  will,  U....r  tinK  (  i.r 
lium'by  thin  i.ri.r.v.lini:  sIm.wv.I  I.ii.imH'  in  nil  Ins  tolly. 
Our  ..(.iiccTt  took  i.lar..  thv  Hiiiiu- rvr.iin,t.M.iMl  lli.'.ir.M,.!  iimn 
Willi  ii.nTiii.l  umli.r  linislu.l  l.in  i.rfwl.-  l.y  K'ttii.ir  lly  'jt  'i'* 
a  poiHoM.'.!  arruNV.  "This  was  writtn.  lyany  .lay.  huhv, 
l,Mt  wc  .lid  la.t  puMish  it.  luvaUM-  \vr  <h<l  not  wisli  t..  .1.. 
harm  t.>  tlm  c.ii.vrtrt  whi.'h  vviv  ahout  to  tako  i.la.v. 
Ihiviii.-- i-xainiii.'.!  .-Ill- .•(.luiiins,  iiial  assiiiv.1  ..Mi-sclv.'s  Ilia  iio 
,,,„.H.n  Nvasaho.il  to  tak.'  pla.v.  ur  hav  .l.vi.lr.l  to  pMhlisli 
it  ••  Max,  who  is  ).ati.'iici'  itsolf  provuh'.!  no  .•iif  toiiriu's 
his  intnvsts,  lu'camr  iv.l  with  ni.tr.'  "H  iva.liii.ir  tho  artu'k-. 


i'l..  s.w  oiilv  the  last  i.ara.irrai.h.-that  tlu-iv  was  no  .•oiKvrt 
„l„.ut  to  tako  i.la.T,'^  whi.'h  was  .•alriilat.-l  to  k.rp  avvav 
,„;mv  of  ..ur  an'li....v.  IK-  .•alK^.l  on  tla-  .-lilor,  an.l  with 
thi'  ino'^f  at;T(val.lr  air  in  th.'  worM,  intnMlu.v.l  hiins.'lt.  ^^ 
M„.r.  "1  am  your  servant,  sir.     My  name  is  htrakosi-li. 

J<:,li(nr.  ".\h:""  ,  ^        ,i-  1   ♦!    f 

J\l„.r.  "I  ivijivt  that  y.ai  th..u«<;ht  proiuT  to  pniiiisli  that 

"''V;/;^)r  (with  a  stitr  airV     "Thos..,  sir,  arc  my  opinions." 
Mu.  "I  am  Horry  for  it  (with  u  gracious  air),  l.nt  piT- 

liai's  voti  will  comf  to  tho  con.'.-rtv"  ,    ,  „       t" 

J'J.  I  i  tor  {i'w\nmi^-^\Mtni  A  wishing  it  tohoHoc-n).   "Hem. 
ilfm  "Have  y.m  a  family T'  .      .-  ,    ^ 

AWZ/or.  "My  stars,  yos  I  1  think  that  four  ov  livo  tickets 

^^"i/'m*  "I  am  (lolishtcl!  You  will  tin.l  them,  sir, at  your 
di-^iosal  at  the  music  store,  where  they  will  cost  you  only 
seventv-tivo  cents  each." 

And  he  returned  cha.-mcd  wiHx  his  roven.sxe.  T  figure  to 
Tiivself  the  discomfiture  of  th.'  editor.  Hut  the  conse- 
nilences !  Poor  Strakoscli !  the  editor  will  have  his  revenge, 
and  if  you  ever  return  here  (which  j.rohahly  you  will  have 
the  .n.o.1  sense  never  to  <lo)  you  may  expect  to  receive  liis 
hroadsides.  I  pity  you,  or  rather  1  l.'ity  the  artis  s  tor 
whom  you  will  he  the  impressario,  tor  it  will  he  on  them 
i,s  heing  the  only  vulnerable  point  of  the  impressario,  that 
will  fall  the  blows,  like  those  coachmen  who  strike  tiie 
horses  of  their  rivals  with  heavy  blows  ot  their  wlups 
whenever  they  meet  them.  ,  .         , 

in  the  last  niontli  of  June  I  gave  thirty-three  concerts  m 


1 


r.MiAnisf:  .i.v/»  nrrr.  nrprwisr.s'. 


•20n 


tlu'ir  tWts.  Our 
ill  nil  Ills  tolly, 
ml  llic  u'immI  iiiiiii 

litiiiiiJ:  tly  lit  iiM 

liiny  <l!i\»  Hiiicc, 
I  not  \\i-*li  tn  tli> 
:  to  tiiko  |ilii('c. 
ulirsflvrs  lllilt  lli> 
'.'idril  to  |iiil>lisli 

1     IK)    ollf   tollrlKS 

idiiiir  tlu'  artiiU'. 
It'  w  as  no  coiu'i'l't 
cd    to  keep   ilWiiy 

(■(lilnr,  mill  witli 
liici'd  liiiiisi'lf. 
iiic  is  rttrak<Hi'h." 

IT  to  jmlilish  that 

arc  iiiv  oiiinioii'*." 
ions  air),  l»nt  por- 

liesocn).  "Ilcml" 

imr  or  tivo  tickets 

tlii'in,  sir, at  yonr 
\vill  I'ost  you  only 

'iMiiio.  T  fiijnrc  to 
.  Hut  the  conse- 
1  have  hih  rovotigc, 
dily  you  Avill  have 
[teet  to  receive  his 
ity  the  artistH  for 
t  will  he  on  thein, 
L'  iniiiressario,  that 
en  who  strike  the 
vrt  of   their  whips 

ty-threc  concerts  in 


twentv-Hixdtivs.     In  fourteen  inotilhrtidiiriin:  which  I  have 
r.niaiiicd  idl.'onlv  lifly  days)  I  have  L'iv.ii  nioiv  ihaii  lour 

hundred  .•oii<erl>,^iiid'tnivellr.l   i v  than  forty  tliou^.and 

miles   hv  railroad.     This  reminds  me  of  the  hlory  l.y  the 
Mill  of  Alexandie   |)iimas,  when-  his  hero  laid  a  wairer  to 
live  a  whole  month  exclusively  on  pigeon  I     The  fir>t  eiLdil 
davs  did  v»'rv  well.     The  second  week   this  insipid    tl.-li 
heliaii  to  disir'iist  liim.     The  twentieth  day  he  hail  a  honor 
of"it,aiid  on  the  thirtieth  (for  he  heroically  won  hi-  heti 
the  siuhl  only  of  a  i.i.ireon's  t'eat her  nave  him  a  fi'Vi'r  and 
sea->ic'knessl  'l  am  the  sam«'  with  my  concerts;  the  siyht 
of  an  audience  trives  me  a  nausea,  and  every  tveiiiiic;  in  sit- 
tiiiii' down   ill   fi""ii*   "•'  f'l''  ii'i'lieiK'c,  to  the  key-lioitrd,  to 
whTch  pitiless  fate  has  di'Voted  me,  1   experience  tln'  panus 
of  the   thirtietli  d.jy  of   pijieoii  in   Dumas'  story.     I  am 
pleased  to  think  tlia'l  Iicyoml   the  tonih  concerts  I'xist  only 
m   the  memory  like  the  niji,hlmare  wi'   recall   to  ourselves 
confusedly  in  "the  moriiin«;'wl:ich  has  painfully  ilistiirlH'd 
our  slcep."^    Till- Orientals  people  their  jiaradise  with  mar- 
vellous hoiiris;  the  Indians  till  theirs  with  prairies  full  of 
uame  where  the  chase  is  eteriuil.     1  love  to  tiirure  to  myself 
riiat  in  the  paradise  wheri'  1  shall  tcoCn  tlu"  local  laws  strictly 
pr<philiit   ever  jilayiiit;  music  in   jiiililie  for  nioiu'y,  under 
the  |ienalty  of  listenint>:  twi-nty  times  successively  to  'La 
reverie  de  Uoselh'U.'     On  the  other  side  1  represent  hell  to 
nivself  as  hi'liii;  the  treiu'ral  t'Utrepot  of  all  pianos— sijUtiro, 
u-raiid,  upriirht,  and  ohliiiue  -  an  infernal    Uotaiiy   Hay  lor^ 
Uie  practice  o{'  hanU'iied  pianists,  in  which  an  audience  of 
the   ilamned   listei,   to  an    eternal    'Keverie   de    Rosclleii,' 
plaved   to  the  consnmmatioii  of  the  at;es  liy  pianists,  iii- 
halVitants  of  the  somhre  em|.ire!     Ileyl   What  do  vou  say 
to  it?     Itmakesoneshudderoiily  totliinkof  it,niid  Daiitt', 
had  he  known  of  the  piano,  w<')uld  he  have  failed,  think 
vou,  to  have  made  it  take  a  part  of  that  fri<rht fill  torment 
"in  his  'Inferno".'     No,  certainly,  and  if  to  the  '  Reverie  do 
Kosellen,'  he  had  added   tlii"  'Domia  e  Mohile,"  and  'The 
Maiden's  Praver,'  of  Miss  Uardazewska,  I  do  not  doiil.t  that 
i\r,,lin,,  himself  would  have  heeii  comparatively  happy  in 
iKit  helontriiiir  to  this  honourahle  artistic  corjioration. 

Sometimes  I  tind  myself  retarded  on  the  road  hy  some 
aeeident  or  unforeseen  circumstance.      I  then  dispatch  a 

25* 


204 


^^OTES  OF  A  PIAXIST. 


ti.lo.rrimi  to  iviv  asrcnt  and  the  lionr  for  tlic  concert  is  nimk- 
later-  lmtitals(.liaiiiK'Mss(.nicthiicstluittlictclc<.Taniarriv«>s 
too  late  for  liini  to  imUlish  it.     The  au<liencc  already  asseni- 
l.lcd  in  the  hall  hecomes  a.L^itated  and  restless  at  not  sirn.g 
the  artist  nhvviw.    M V  teh-i^raphic  dispatch  arrives,an(l  ^tra- 
kosch  reads  it  to  the\uidi^nce  offering  to  return  the  inoiu'y 
to  tliose  who  have  not  the  patience  to  await  my  arrival.     .\ 
tcle-'-rani  from  Strakosch  in  answer  to  mine,  whicii  i  g-ene- 
ndlv  receive  at   the  next  station,  makes  mc  aware  ot  its 
dcTision.     Then,  if  it  is  willing  to  wait  forme,  I  send,  trnm 
station  to  station,  a  telegram  which  my  ageiit  rea;.d  to  tlie 
andience   to   keep   it   in   patience.     This   calms  it.      Soon 
there  is  estahlished  hetween  ns  a  sympatlu'tic  tie.     It  Ic- 
comes  interested  in  the  unknown  traveller  whose  thought 
traverses  space  to  communicate  nith    that  ot   the"  ciiAul 
anxious  to  see  him.     Every  one  converses  with  his  neigh- 
hour;  the  voun-  girl,  iiirt  with  their  heanx;  the  papas 
sleep,  or  talk  of  Eric  or  of  American  gold  ;  the  hall  is  trans- 
forn.ed  into  a  vast  frien.lly  Tertulia      As  the  telegrapluc 
dispatclies  toUow  each  otlicr,  tlie  enthusiasm  augments      1 
am  seen  approaching'  more  than  twenty  miles,  no  moretl.ai 
ten    miles   off,  the  ^  last    stations  are  genera  ly   traverscnl 
amidst  the  expectant  enthusiasm  ot  the  whole  hall.     1  It 
exciiemcnt   hecomes   so    great   that  they  almost  emhraee 

^"'(X  B'I'if  I  were  one  of  the  andience,  hy-thc-hye,  I  should 
notl.i.ve  the  least  ohjeetion  in  yielding  (wi'.h  discrimination) 
to  this  atfectionate  demonstration.  • 

Strakosch  then  appears  and  witli  tremulous  voice  says, 
.vipin-  his  forehead  as  if  he  luul  just  pulk.l  the  ram  so 
impat'ientlv  awaited,  more  than-litty  miles  (or  rather  like 
n'impres^ario  who  after  having  thought  his  receipts  were 
shipwrecked  sees  them  ri.ling  at  anchor  at  the  .ottom  ot 
his  coffers),  these  solemn  words  whicli  the  audience  le- 
eeives  with  a  tattoo  of  '  hurrahs :'  "  L^idies  and  ^^^^^^'H: 
I  have  the  honour  of  announcing  to  you  that  Mr.  (,<  ttsehalk 
ha^  iust  arrived."  I  then  make  my  entree  upon  the  scene, 
and  the  tattoo  of  the  audience  goes  on  increasing,  swells 
and  takes  su.di  hoisterous  proportions  that  1  should  not 
know  how  to  give  vou  an  idea  of  it.  unless  vou  have-  hear.l 
the  finale  of  ^  toue'^of  Maestro  i'etrella,  or  that  ot  '  Medea 


THE  CIIAMPIDS  OF  COSVEnTS. 


205 


ic  concert  is  niado 
lotc'k'UTaniari'ivfs 
wv  already  assi'in- 
Ikw  at  not  Htrinti; 
h  arrives,  and  St ra- 
return  tliu  money 
ait  my  arrival.     A 
line,  Avliich  I  gene- 
s  me  aware  of  its 
;)rme,  I  send,  from 
agi'nt  i-ea'd  to  the 
s  "calms  it.     Soon 
lathetic  tie.     It  be- 
Icr  whose  thontrht 
that  of  the  crowd 
■ses  Avith  his  neigh- 
heanx;   the  pa^ias 
d;  thehallistrans- 
As  the  teletrraphie 
;iasm  iMisi'ments.     I 
miles,  no  more  than 
Generally    traversed 
ie  whole  hall.     The 
icy  almost  embrace 

by-thc-bye,  I  shonld 
,vi'h  discrimination) 

■emulous  voice  says, 
jmlled  the  train,_  so 
dies  (or  rather  like 
;ht  his  reeciiits  were 
or  at  the  bottom  of 
•h  the  audience  re- 
plies and  o-ciitlemcn, 
thatMr.  (iottschalk 
itrtH'  upon  the  scene, 
»n  increasing,  swells, 
s  that  I  should  not 
idess  you  have  heard 
,1,  or  that  of  '  Medea' 


of  Maestro  racu.i,  which,  to  my  notion,  aiv  the  \^^o  mo.t 
dean,  ing  mnsic-al  alH.minaiions  wh  ch  have  ever  been  con  - 
U  >lnc-e  the  invention  of  the  bass  drum,  the  cymbals, 
"'  I  the  whole  kitchen  battery  of  m...lcrn  mstrumcntation. 
i  ■  k.si.n,edlv  enlaro-e  upon  this,  be..ausc  it  is  charactc-nstic 
of  m'-AmeVican  audience,  and  a  nove    and  .^l-l'v /'f  ^ 

h    'e  in  the  phvsiology  of  concerts  in  the  I  n.ted  States 
^    Xotbhig,  latterly,  worthy  of  notic^  m  ^-y ^^^^^^^^^^ 
it  is  a  tew  lines  .-iving  an  account  ot  one  ol  the  la     (  a  -m i- 
ublv    1  am  hound  t..  acknowlc.lge),  nuM.tionmg  that     M  . 

Uottschalk  played  ^r-l'^^^-^rj'^'^f  ^  'D^'Ti::!:^ 
^,,.    J, .^   and  with  magnificent  ettec  .        1  he     t    .  <  le 

Son.'  for  two  pianos  '.      I  pity  the  p<..r  haby  ^vho  should  he 
eoiuk.mne.1  to  l>e  c-ra.Ued  under  tl.e  magnmcent  ;f  ^'<;-  > 

pianos.     This  l.rb.gs  to  my  nund  by  contrast  tin-  '  M  >..    e 
h.   ]>roplK"te'  which  1  s.w  at   Havana  arranged     or      le 
llauaM.let  with  guitar  accompaniment  1     I    is  probable        t 
the  cluNM.icler  of  this  concert,  having  g..ne  to  sl.rpatta      n- 

H.r  (without  the  ai.l  of  the  two  pianos  m  (p.estio  ,),  m  ^ 

uive  written  on  the  faith  of  the  programme  and  ot    he    . m- 

babilities,  but  that  his  pen  still   benumbed  contounde.l     U 

FutaisieTriomphale'  !.n  '  Trovatore' tcr  tw<.  pianos  with 

tlie   H'radle  Song,'  which  the  progranimo  announced  loi 

''l,rth:";:^Sph  oxtn.eted  from  my  last  letter  to  the 
cHoino  Journal'  the  editor  eomnutted  an  error  which  majo 
of  the  other  papers  reproduced  and  which  1  wish  to  rectits. 
"l^schalk  itSs  said,  has  given  in  the  'mtcl  States  .u-arly 
one  thousand  coiu-erts  and  has  trave  le.l  by  rad  and  s  eani- 
hoat  nearly  eight  thousand  miles."  It  ^^^^^^.^^ 
oi.rht  thousand  but  eighty  thousand  mdes  L  -k.  thou- 
sand  miles  hi  two  years  are  simply  a  tritle  that  tl' .  r.ma  lest 
learned  animal,  giant,  dwarf,  phenomenon  .)r  traveUmg 
pianist   who    ha?  speculate.l   on   the    c-ountry   <•«.!    b.    .t 

,  viug  done,  and  the  rights  which  1  deman.l  as  the 
c  a  npion  of  concerts  and  of  perambulation  on  railroads 
would  be  as  doul>tful  as  those  of  the  ku.got  Sanf  n  a  to 
the  kingdom  of  Jerusalem,  or  ot  those  o    KichannN  agner 

;  the  .^.ming  races,  if  I  had  only  Vivdit  on  the  le,  ger  o 
oosteritv  for  eiirht  thousand  nuserable  little  m   es! !     Lut 

It  is  ei"-hty  thousand  miles  which  I  have  travelled  m  less 


20G 


NOTICS  OF  A  riAMST. 


u- 


than  two  years,  givh.g  on  an  avorago  throe  ^•^^^^;;^^;'^^y 
tw..  .lavs.     It  is  almost  as  notable  as  Doeior  {'.)  \\  nishu., 
of  Uoston,  who  raises  four  lliousan.l  pounds  or  tlio  young 
Conneetieut  irirl  that  JJarnum   exhil.its  who  weighs   s>x 
hun.lre.1  pounds.     My  detraef.rs  can  .leny  me  everythu.g 
m  the  future,  I  eare  little  about  it      1  hey  7", «iy/  '"f. 
I   i)lav  only  mv  own  musie,  and  that  it  is  had  ;  //"it  1 
,rm,w>„v,/atmVeoneerts  (how  horrible:,);  that  1  ^vll•^•  "'.v 
lingers  before  eommeneing  to  play,  with  my  ijandkerehiet 
vhirh   1  take   from   */'.'/  /'-"•/,<,'  (what  a  shame Ij.  all   these 
thin.^s  form  the  suhjeet  of  a  widely  extended,  anonymous 
eorrespon.lenee,  with  whieh  a  erowd  of  austere  h.Vi^rs  ot 
art  ..-I'atifv  me  every  morning,  whose  little  bilious  spite  is 
alleViated  by  telling  me  eontidentially  the  most  J.isagree- 
ahle  thiiiixs  i'n  the  world.  .,      t    i  ♦• 

From  Uie  heis,dit  of  my  eiirhty  thousand  miles  i  dety 
the  wh..le  world;  and  if  my  enemies  after  having-  dislodged 
lue  from  «o  many  other  positions  attempt  to  dispute  witli 
me  the  possession  of  this  last  bulwark,  1  solemnly  .kvUire 
to  them  that  1  ahull  defend  it  with  the  energy  ot  despair. 

ANECDOTES  OF  KALKBREXXER  AND  OTHERS. 

Ivalkhrenner,   who    by   his   didaetie   works   is    recom- 
mended to  the  respect  of  art i.ts,  but  whose  compositions 
1)V   their  vacuity  are  condemned    to  never   being  played, 
had  it  odd,  neat,  limpi.l  execution,  and  a  pure  but  suucr- 
iicial  and  tedious  stvle.     Tlie  perfect  elegan.-e  ot    Ins  man- 
ners, his  cultivated  intelligence,  and  his  talent  gave  luni 
trreat  success  in  societv.  but  his  extreme  vanity,  which  had 
hecome  proverbial,  had  in  time  rendered  him  msuppi.rtablv-. 
lie  thou.--ht  himself  infallible  in  everything,  and  had  said 
forciblv  like  a  celebrated  dancer  of  the  last  century    I  ->V/v.S 
I  think,  -there  are  u»  Europe  tliree  great  men— V  oltaire, 
Frederick,  and  mvself."     1  lis  best  pupil,  Stamaty  a  iellow- 
scholar   with    Osborne,    the   fortunate   tellow-labourer    ot 
I'.eriot  in  one  hundred  <lu..s  for  the  j.iano  and  violin,  was 
mv  teacher  for  beven  vears.     In  1844,  then  very  young,  I 
.rave  at   I'aris  a  s.nree'to  which  all  the  illustn..us  i.ianists 
\>i'  the  pi'ri.nl  were  invited,  anunig  .>thers  Kalkljrenner.     i 
played  Chopin's  concerto  in  K  minor,  Ihalberg  s  iantasia 


KALKDnESXER. 


291 


reo  co'U'i  r*s  every 
(H-tor  ('.)  ^\  iiishii., 
iiuls,  or  the  young 
(  who  weighs   six 
•ny  1110  everything 
riiVy  can  say  that 
it  is  had  ;  ^liiit   I 
I);  that  1  wipe  iny 
1  my  iiamlken-hief 
shame'.;,   all   these 
tended,  anonymous 
f  anstt'i-e  hiviTs  ot" 
ttle  hilious  spite  is 
the  most  .lisagree- 

sand  miles  I  defy 
'V  having  disloilged 
]it  to  dispute  with 
,  1  solemnly  deelare 
energy  of  despair. 

;d  others. 

r   works   is    reeom- 
tvhose  eomitositions 
lever   heing  played, 
d  a  pure  hut  suuer- 
legaiKv  of  his  man- 
lis"  talent  gavt'  him 
e  vanity,  which  had 
1  him  insupiH>rtahlv. 
rthing,  and  had  said 
last  eentury,  V-Mrls, 
;reat  men — Voltaire, 
il,Stamaty,a  fellow- 
:    fellow-lahourer    of 
iano  and  violin,  was 
,  then  very  young,  I 
e  illustrious  pianists 
lers  Kalkhrenner.     I 
•,  Thalherg's  fantasia 


of  'Scmiramide,'  and  that  of  Liszt's  'Rohert  le  PiahU'. 
The  next  (lav  1  went  to  tlii';.k  Kalkhrcniu'r  for  having  eome 
to  hear  me."  This  atti"..tion  softened  a  littlr  tlu'  generally 
sour  disposition  of  the  old  i-ianist,  who  did  n..t  forgive 
the  new  sehool  for  knowiiiT  something;  he  took  my  hand 
and  said  to  me  with  an  air  of  majestie  eondesceiision, 
"The  style  is  irood;  as  for  the  rest  there  is  nothing  astonish- 
iii"-;  von  are'mv  trrandi-hild  (alluding  to  Stamaty,  who 
w;Ts  his  pupil),  but,  for  (Jod"s  sake,  who  advise.l  you  to 
play  sueh  musie'^  Chopin!  I  hardly  jKirdon  you;  hut  Liszt 
and  Thalheru-,  what  rhapsodies!  Why  did  you  not  i-lay 
one  of  my  j.ie.-es'i  they  are  Inautiful,  [.lease  everyhody, 
and  are  elassieal !"  i      .i 

Kalkhrenner  had  a  son  wh(.m  he  lioj^ed  to  make  Uie 
inheritor  of  his  o-lorv,  hut  who,  after  having  heeii  an  miant 
pi-odi-y,  ahorted  and  heeame  a  prodigious  nullity.  One 
ni'dit'Tifter  havimr  hoasted  before  the  Freiieh  Court  ot  the 
iinprovisation  of  his  ehild,  then  eight  years  old,  tlieking 
expre.ssed  his  desire  to  hear  one  of  these  marvi'llous  inspi- 
rations. The  ehild  plaeed  himself  at  the  [.iano  and  j-layeil 
for  si)me  minutes,  then  stopping  all  at  onee  he  turned 
towards  his  father  and  artlessly  said  to  him,^'i'apa,  1  havo 

forirotti'ii — ."  .  1   .      1  • 

kalkbrenner  lived,  wlien  I  was  introduced  to  liini,  in 
the  (luarter  of  J'aris  called  (Mte  (FOrleans.  This  Cite  d  Or- 
leans was  a  kind  of  artists'  hive.  You  reached  it  through 
a  narrow  alley  which  opened  into  an  interior  court  around 
which  mniiv  eU'gant  pavilions  were  clustered. 

The  tirst'whieh  met  the  eye  was  occupie<l  on  the  ground 
Hoor  hy  Zimmerman,  the  director  of  the  piano  classes  at 
the  Paris  Conservatoire.  A  wearisome  ])ianist,  a  pedantic 
and  ordinary  composer,  he  was  nevertheless  an  excellent 
pa.fessor,  and  it  >va.s  he  who  formed  J'riuk'nt,  (Jorui,  and 
all  the  pianists  of  the  French  school.  On  my  arrival  at 
I'aris  he  had  refused  me  admission  to  the  Conservatoire, 
saying  that  "America  was  the  country  of  railroads  hut  not 
of  musicians."  , 

On  the  tirst  floor  was  the  atelier  of  Dantan,  the  cele- 
hrated  sculptor  who  has  made  the  busts  of  every  illustrious 
artist  of  this  century.  The  pavilion  alongside  was  occu- 
pied by  Georges  Sanci  Avheu  she  was  m  I'aris,  and  alongside 


f  f 


298 


NOTES  OF  A  PLiXIST. 


of  bora  camo  that  of  Chovi"-     <^1'1'<^^'^^  <?"""^. '  "" 

oil  miatour  who  si-ocnlatc-.l  on  the  ivputation  ot  a  man  ot 

lo    -to  gather  \o  his  house  all  the  a...sts  u,  vog,^  to 

av  and  shi- without  its  ever  costu.jr  lam  a  W'"^.  ^|'.''' 

Ip'rierof  Count  de i^  often  found),  alongside  ot  h.m 

^^S;;' ti:^  !^m;h-lK.nist,  was  the  friend  of  Kalkluvnuer, 
.vW  widms  ho  n,lieuled  unnuMvitul  y.  1  hea,-d  hun 
rclute  the  following  anee.loto  one  day  that  I  dmed  \Mlh 
i  a  •ui  a\salad  nn^is  served  for  which  Kalkhreuner  had 
v^it^  Utoseasoning.  Atuou.  other  pretensions  ho 
latter  boasted  that  he  entertainedLetter  than  anybody  e  >e 
and  as  to  eti-iui'tte  many  sovereigns  had  taken  counsel  ot 
his  kuowleduv  in  delicate  eases.       ,      .      ,  i-o  •       ^„ 

"  I  'avc  a  dinner  to  the  chiefs  of  the  _A«idemy  ot  Sc-ioneo. 
and  VTedieine  of  which  I  was  dean  (it  is  Orhla  wl...  speaU) 
Te  French  Princes  were  also  invited,  and  "'>"'y  ot  er 
il    strious  persons.     Tlie  number  of  my  servants  not  be  ng 
m  lie  cut,  I  engaged  some  more;  whether  i   was  owing  to 
;    m  u  e  of  their  duty,  or  that  they  were  fngditened  a    the 
aiglit  of  such  an  imposing  assembly,  one  ot  tln^a  bun  ed  a 
plate   to  Kalkbrenner   on   his  right  side.     Ivalkbiennci, 
Sing  l.iniseh  eclipsed  by  the  presence  of  so  '.jany  ^n'out 
^u^nes:  and  sutierin.g  impatiently  from  >^emg  re  egate     to 
an  interior  place,  took  care  as  you  umy  well  !^"l'l  !_>- '  ^ 
6ei/c  the  (H-casion  to  tliake  himselt  noticed.       My  li  lend, 
eaW  he,  in  an  assumed  manner  to  tho  uniortunate  servaii  , 
♦when  any  one  has  the  honour  oi  waiting  on  guests  as  d   - 
tiV-uishefl  as  we  are,  ho  ought  not  to  bo  ig.u.rant  tla 
platesare  to  be  handed  o»  the  IrjV    And  on  this  he  l>ridled 
,  and,  the  servant  having  changed  his  position,  l^o  he  pel 
mself'pleuteously  from  tho  dish      Some  ^"neatterth 
Ivdkbre mer  a^so  gave  a  dinner.     It  so  happened   hat  oi.c 
J^' the  i::i!vants  in  ^king  a  <lish  off  the  table  upsc^  jho  saucn. 
on  my  head  (and  on  saying  this  Orhla  ^t,^,^;  ,'      '^j''  :    { 
o„  which  there  was  no  lon-er  a  hair).      My   . ..  d,  1  s.u 
to  the  poor  servant,  stupetied  by  his  awkwardness,    we 
uv    me  has  the  honour  of  waiting  on  such  di  tiuguishc 
n.^.s     as  wo  are,  he  ought  not  to  be^.^norant  that  he  mus 
r.ot  upset  sauee  .m  their  hea.ls.'     ^^'f '''•^■'"'^'V:';;'  ?':  "« 
the  llssou,  and  found  it  «o  much  the  more  bitter  as  he 


ORFrr.A  AND  THE  DOCTORS. 


209 


»  Count ,  nn 

iitioii  fit'  a  man  of 

rtistrt  in  vt^guc  to 

lini  .1  ^lonny  (this 

alongside'  of  liim 

(I  of  Kalkbri'unor, 
y.  1  licard  liiin 
hat  I  dined  wirli 
KalkhrciHicr  had 
•r  iirctcnsions  the 
than  anyhiidy  i'l>o, 
d  taken  counsel  of 

cadeniy  of  Sciences 
Ortila  "who  si)eaks). 
,  and  many  other 

servants  not  heing 
or  it  was  owing  to 
.■e  frightened  at  the 
?  of  them  handed  a 
ide.      Kalkhrenner, 
0  of  so  many  groat 
beinu;  relegated  to 
ny  well  suppose,  to 
iced.     '  My  friend; 
anfortunate  servant, 
ng  on  t£uests  as  dis- 
;)"be  ignorant  that 
i  on  tliis  he  l)ridlod 

position,  lie  helped 
)iue  time  after  this, 
)  happened  that  one 
able  upset  (he  sauce 
showed  us  his  head, 

'  My  fr'.^nd,'  I  said 
wkwardness,  'when 

such  di  tinguished 
iiorant  that  he  must 
nchreniier  understood 
u  more  bitter  as  he 


liked,  as  I  have  said,  to  entertain,  and  boasti'd  that  every- 
thini:;  at  his  house  followed  the  rules  of  court  eti(plette,  of 
whirii  he  had  instituted  himself  grand  master."  _ 

Ortila  every  Thursdav  gave  a  dinner  to  his  friends.  Jt 
was  ;it  the  period  of  tlie 'cholera:  twelve  hundred  jKn-sons 
die<l  (hiily  of  this  horrible  disease.  All  the  doctors  ordered 
a  rigorous  diet.  >■  They  are  asses,"' said  Ortila,  laughing; 
an(r"^he  continued  to  srive  his  friends  (who  nevertheless 
found  themsi'lves  no  worse  for  it)  everything  which  was 
tlu'ii  considered  as  tending  to  engender  .he  i.revailing  dis- 
ease salads,  ice-creams,  and  fruit.  "They  are  asses.  :ni<l 
the  proof  is  that,  after  having  killed  me  eighteen  years 
au'o,  thev  were  not  al)le  to  discover  that  I  was  not  deiul." 
Indeed, 'in  a  terrible  illness  whi  h  he  had,  he  fell  into_ 
a  cataleptic  statt'  which  presented  such  appearances  of 
death  that  the  physicians  were  deceived  for  many  hours. 
lie  was  i)resent,  without  iu'ing  able  to  move,  at  the  prepa- 
rations for  his  burial,  and  heard  the  conversations  of  the 
doctors  who  relieved  each  other,  near  to  him,  and  made 
their  observations  on  the  deceased.  '^  It  is  since  my  death 
that  1  have  become  disgusted  with  life,"*  said  he  with  a 
comic  seriousness,  which  leads  us  to  sujipose  that  the  dean 
of  the  Academy  had  been  but  moderately  satisrted  with  the 
limeral  orations  which  he  heard  made. 

It  was  at  these  dinners  that  I  became  acquainted  with 
the  most  celebrated  doctors  and  surgeons  of  the  time. 
Trousseau,  who  began  to  make  himself  kimwn,  and  at  that 
time  devoted  his  leisure  to  a  pretty  American  ;  Hoyer,  the 
venerable  chief  of  chemistry  at  the  Hotel  Dieii;  Kicord, 
the  artists'  doctor;  ras(iuier,  the  doctor  for  children  and  ot 
KiiiiT  Louis  Philippe;  Maisonneuve,  who  wa.s  already  jilan- 
niiuThis  marvellous  operations;  Nelaton,  the  surgeon  who 
ci'.re<I  (laribaMi;  and  many  others  av hose  names  escape  nu'. 
Urtila,  notwithstanding 'the  gravity  of  his  hdxaiys  and 
the  austerity  of  his  manners,  took  delight  in  music,  and 
sung  (he  was  sixty  years  okl)  with  much  spirit  Italian 
boutie  music. 


f1 


800 


NOTES  OF  A  riAMST. 


ClIArTER  XYIII. 

May  11,  1B64. 

Abbived  at  Toronto  at  five  o'olork  P.  M.  ;ro['>!'/o  i;; 
the  rS  (.Uy  in  C'a.uula.  Smaller  t  .an  Mon  real,  it  luH 
tile  allvantaixe  of  being  more  aninmtod.  Its  «oc-K-ty  ,s  n.oro 
hosiiitablo  and  Kuroi>ean.  i     *        i    tr. 

A  suuorl.  .onfcrt!     We  play  and  .in-  our  best,  and,  to 
in4:  Voni  the  enthusiasm  of  the  ^^^^-^'':''^:::  ^i^^'^^'l 
•  -urn  the  tirst  to  the  last  piece,  we  svieeeed.    I  w  11  nu;n  i.-u 
u      nprovement  over  our  eoneerts  at  M.n.treal,  Avhuh    s 
1  at  eouN-ersation,  if  there  was  any,  took  place  m  an  u  u  e,- 
tone  that  permitted  the  music  to  be  heard      ^(.  noui^' 
.thcers  nuikim,^  themselves  insnpp<.rtable  to    heir  ne.j^l- 
bours  bv  their'unseasonable  talking,  but,  on  the  contrars, 
REAL  S..-  ish   gentlemen  who  di.l  not   thmk   themselves 
bound  to' show '^heir  cnnui  by  acting  in  a  manner  annoying 

'^llv^^f  ;;r;;.V-  ^>r  my  mimical  I^o^jny  lias  oxj^- 
en-ed   a   ru.le   shock   this   evening       ^^•'^'•"V\^^\»^  "V/' 
having  been  eiicore.1,  took  it  into  her  head  to  smg  mv 
Jcra  Ue   Song,'  which  was   not  on   the   programme.      A 
Chan    ng  woman  asked  me  the  name  of  tliat  './/vyA//./  ^.     S 
S'v lowas  the  composer  of  xt't     And  this  is  ^o  nuu^i 
Jhenuu^e Vexatious  as  I  have  not  even  the  consolation  ot 
pposing  that  my   pretty  interrogator  -as   one   ot   n^ 
enemies  uul  chose  this  mode  ot  proving  it.     Mie  li.ul,  tie 
Si:;rone,  just   c^st  a  dart  at^  -^^  ^  J^^^i:^; 
wb-i.-h  she  had  thus  sharpened,  rendered  the  landid  opm 
o    wh    h  she  had  expressed  about  my  latest  born  more 
ni^u     o  mv  paternity.     It  is  salutary  that,  irom  time  to 
ti  we  should  be  recalled  to  the  reality  o    things,  that 
to  i  V  that  amidst  the  factitious  atmosphere  ot  bia>se.l 
oninonsfr  1     interested  tlatterers,  in  the  midst  ot  whom 
v^^;  are  painp^-ed,the  truth  should  reach  us  from  without. 


-*r*p«f''^W«a*:«ja^ 


Mny  11,  1P(54. 
:  r.  M.     Toronto  in 
luu  Montroal,  it  Iuih 
,    Its  sofk'ty  is  nioro 

int;  our  best,  and,  to 
dioiur,  Avlio  oticoivd 
■00(1.  1-  Avill  iiu'iitit»u 
Montreal,  wliich  is 
)k  placi-  in  an  muler- 
e  lieard.  ^'o  younsi; 
able  to  tbeir  neiti'b- 
bnt,  on  tbo  contrary, 
ot  tliink  theinsi'lyes 
n  a  luanuer  annoying 

progeny  bas  cxperi- 
^hidani  SStrakoscb, 
lor  bead  to  sing  my 
tbe  ]irotri">i'>'"t"  -^ 
.1"  tbat  \fr''<jl>iM  !>>>'''('' 
And  tb'is  is  so  imub_ 
-on  tlio  consolation  of 
itor  was  one  of  my 
ing  it.     Sbe  bad,  tbe 

mo,  and  my  vanity, 
orod  tbe  candid  opui- 

niy  latest  born  more 
iry  tbat,  from  time  to 
id'ity  of  tilings,  tbat  is 
itmospbere  of  biassod 
in  tbe  midst  of  wboni 
eacb  us  from  witbout. 


THE  BARRACKS  AT  TOROXTO. 


801 


May  12. 

T  wont  out  at  eleven  o'clock  to  <lino  at  -Mr  ( J.'s,  a   IVlo 
bv  birtb,  wbom  lon>r  association  witb  hnglisb  society  has 
n.ndcrcl    Kn-lisb.   'A"  engineer  of   great   talent     be   bus 
dniust   wboOy   e..nstrnctod   tbe  '(Jrand  '1  rnnk   Kadvva 

i.  oU-ant  mansio.i  is  a  model  of  tasto  an.  ot  con.tort. 
It  is,  intone  word,  wbat  tbe  bouso  ongbt  to  l.o  ot  sucb  a 
man  as  bo,  wbo  can  ..tier  and  kn..ws  l..m  t.>  bost..w  tbe 
mo-it  courteous  b.isi)itality.  .      ,    ..     •         c 

1    bavo   visitcl    tbe   barracks   of    tbe   six   batteries   of 
artillcrv  pla.-e.l  in  garrison  at  Toronto.    'I  Ijoso  wbo  are  not 
tv  tb  Knilisb  sol.liors  will  witb  ditlicu  ty  torm  an  idea  ot 
the  adndrable   onlor   and    neatness  wbu'b    prova-l     bore. 
Tbo  borsos,  all  of  (\ma.lian  race,  are  magniticent  animals, 
treated  witb  a  solicitude  an.l  care  wliicli   struck  mo  s.) 
mucbtbe  more  as  1  bave  BtiU  present  "1  "^v  memorv  tbo 
brutal  eruel,  and  improvi.lent  manner  witb  wbi.b  .   Iia\ c 
^     ou  ;"valry  borses  troate.l.   One  oi;tbo  cheers  tbn.ugb 
wboso  p..litenc's  1  was  able  to  visit  m  detail  all  tbe  bar- 
racks, intr.xluco.l  me  into  tbe  mess-r<i.mi  wbore  tbo  oihceis 
take  tbeir  meals.     A  piano  in  one  corner  two  oratori..s  .. 
Han<lol,  and  lying  in  an.>tber  corner,  as  it  it  was  »f ';;i'';'; 
of  being  found  in  sucb  good  ecmpany,  my  bumble    Cia.lU. 

'^Tn  tbo  coacb-bouses  wbero  all  tbe  barness  was,  I  was 
astouisbed  at  the  caro  witb  wbieb  every  bit  ot  loatlier  is 
polisbed,  every  steel  buckle  cleaned ;  an.l  nevertbok^si 
trroat  .leal  of  tbe  barness  is  ten  years  old,  an.l  bas  boon  used 
fn  tbo  Crimea,  baving  been  in  service  at  Alma,  Inkermaii, 
an.l  tbe  Malak.,tt-.  "in  spite  of  all  tb  s  they  look  new 
iloar.1  in  a  music  store  tbe  fantasia  on  'l.a  Muette,  pla^o.! 
bv  a  cbarming  young  girl  Miss  C,  an  ^^'^^^^^ll^J^:^ 
:e.narkable  streugtb  an.l  clearness.  I/^'^^.  f  V',^^^^ 
because  it  is  tbe  lii-st  case  of  native  talent  wbicb  I  baN  e 
met  witb  in  Canada.  ,      .  .,  „ 

Second  concert.     A  great  deal  of  entbusiasm;  nevertbe- 
loss  we  neitbcr  played  nor  sung  so  well  as  yesterday. 

May  13. 

Left  Toronto  at  half-past  twelve  for  Saint  Catherine, 
wbore  we  arrived  at  half-past  four  o'clock  in  the  atternoon, 
26 


r* 


302 


NOTES  OF  A  PI  A  SI  ST. 


It  poured  rain,  Tlio  nrotty  Jiiontli  of  May  fintii.ncH  to 
hold  its  own.  r  liavL'  lu-ard  wud  tliat  St.  Catlicriiio  is  pic- 
tinvs(|uo!  I  sc'i'k  in  vain  to  discovor  the  beauties  of  a 
country  wliieli  I  liave  heard  spoken  of  so  liijrldy.  As  well 
seek  the  beauty  of  a  woman  in  sprinj.;;  dress  who  should 
liiive  accidentally  fallen  into  the  water,  and  wlioni  somebody 
lias  just  drawn  out.  The  water  filters  through  the  door 
and  roof  of  the  diliu;ence.  The  streets  are  lakes  ;  the  trees, 
the  houses,  the  hed_t!;es  are  vaguely  detined  throutrh  the 
compact  lines  made  in  the  atmosjihere  by  tlie  drojis  of  rain 
driven  by  the  wind.  The  only  inhabitants  we  meet  arc  a 
young  lad  and  an  old  blind  horse,  the  one  carrying  the 
other,  and  wading  and  splashing  furiously  to  get  under 
shelter. 

We  shall  not  make  our  fortune  here.  Bt'hrens,  wlio 
undertakes,  ail  iiikriin,  the  functions  of  agent,  having  gone 
to  the  otHce  for  the  sale  of  tickets,  in  a  part  of  which  lie  sees 
my  portrait,  inquires  "Is  it  hero  that  tickets  are  soldV" 
The  proprietor  facetiously  answers  him  (unkind  man), 
"You  wish  to  say  where  tickets  should  be  sold,  for  we 
liavc  not  yet  sold  one." 

Seated  before  the  stove  I  am  reading' John  Marchmont's 
Letracy'  (another  romance  where  lawyers  and  chicanery 
form  the  subject  of  the  book).  AVlien  will  the  time  come 
that  English' romancers  shall  cease  to  explore  the  Court  f)f 
Chancery,  and  the '  Police  dazette'  ?  It  is  sad  to  see  nioiu'y, 
iu(wey,a"nd  always  money,  the  moving  sirring  of  all  romances 
from  'beyond  the  sea.  A  will,  a  chanjre  of  lieirs,  a  false 
heir,  a  fraudulent  will;  no  heirs,  no  will;  and  you  have 
'Orley  Farm,'  '  Xo  Xamo,"  Woman  in  AVhite,'  'Aurora 
Floyd,'  etc.  Take  away  the  money  and  chicanery  of  the 
modern  English  school,  and  see-wdiat  remains.  You  will 
reply  to  me  that  French  romances,  which  speak  only  of 
love,  are  immoral.  Granted.  I  do  not  love  romani'cs, 
but  if  I  must  choose  between  the  two  passions,  in  view  of 
the  eflects  which  they  jiroduce  I  should  choose  that  which 
at  least  awakens  in  us  noble  ideas,  gives  birth  to  noble 
sacritices  and  self-denial.  But  then  I  was  reading  before 
the  stove,  and  Max  was  meditating,  after  having  read  the 
last  news  announcing  a  fresh  Federal  victory,  a  plan  for  a 
concert  campaign  against  the  South,  when  a  bass  voice  re- 


Tin:  COLLECTOR  OF  HER  MAJESTY. 


303 


[ay  f'l.ntiiiucsi  to 
Catln'riiio  is  jiir- 
10  iK'iiutu'rt  of  a 
liirlily.  As  well 
hvss  who  should 
wlioiii  soincliody 
iroiiji'h  thu  door 
hd<i's ;  tlier  tivi's, 
ic'd  throiitrh  tlu- 
tlie  drojw  ol'  rain 
its  we  mt'ct  are  a 
:)iie  earryinu;  the 
<ly  to  get   under 

.  I^t'hreiis,  who 
jcnt,  haviii^c;  gone 
;  of  whic'li  he  sees 
iekets  are  sold?" 
1  (unkind  man), 
he   sold,  for  we 

ohn  ]\hu'('hmont's 
rs  and  ehieanory 
ill  the  time  eome 
[)lorc  the  Court  of 
t  sad  to  see  money, 
ugof  allromanees 
3  of  lieirs,  a  false 
1 ;  and  you  have 
AV'hite,'  '  Aurora 
chieanery  of  the 
mains.  You  will 
ieh  speak  only  of 
t  love  romances, 
issions,  in  view  of 
L'hoose  that  whieh 
-ea  birth  to  noble 
•as  reading  before 
r  having  read  the 
■tory,  a  plan  for  a 
en  a  bass  voiee  re- 


quested to  speak  to  the  agent  of  Mr.  ( ioltschotf  (why  are 
they  so  ohstinati'  in  making  my  name  a  Kiissian  naine'f). 
Tile  new  arrival  is  a  pomjions,  fat,  short,  iipoplcetie  indi- 
vidual, who  had  no  need  of  announcing  hini>ellas  '•cdllec- 
tor  of  Her  Majesty's  customs"  for  nie  to  know  that  I  hail 
tin'  honour  of  seeing  before  me  an  ollieer  of  the  Kni;Ti>h 
govcrnnk'nt.  'flic  colU'ctor  of  He:'  Majesty  has  tlu'  im- 
portant anil  dignitied  air  of  a  judge  who  is  just  pronoimciiit; 
a  seyere  sentence.  Jle  addresses  Strakoscli  with  tluit 
horrid  tone  of  perfidious  i)olitcness  with  which  theattoriiev- 
gt'iicral  examines  a  culprit  whom  he  wishes  to  make  con- 
tradict himself.  "  Voii  have  two  pianos?  Ilcy,  1  say,  tiro 
liiaiios,  hoth  yours,  and  only  one  on  the  permit." 

''Ves,  we  have  one  piano  which  we  have  not  declared, 
not  desiring  to  pay  duty,  since  we  onlv  remain  two  davs  in 
Canada." 

"Ah!  yes,  I  see,  certaiidy.  TFas  not  Mr.  (iottsdiolf 
played  with  great  success  at'Toronto?  I  have  heard  par- 
ticular mention  made  of  a  piece  for  two  iiianos  which 
electi'itied  the  audience  !" 

"Yes,  sir,"  answered  Strakoscli,  "the  grand  inarch  in 
'Faust.'" 

J  la-  ]\I<iJrst)fs  officer.     "  For  two  [lianos  ?" 

Strdkosch.     "Yes,  sir." 

Contracting  his  brow,  and  in  the  attitude  of  the  lawyer 
of  the  ojiposite  party  who  lias  just  discovered  something 
injurious,  the  officer  said,  "  Two  pianos,  sir,  and  you  have 
only  paid  duty  on  one.  The  (iuet'U,  sir,  cannot  thus  be 
robbed,  and  you  will  have  to  pay  the  duty.  The  (^leen, 
sir,  will  collect  the  duty." 

Strakoscli,  vexed  and  beginning  to  get  tired  of  the  char- 
noter  of  iiKpiisitor  which  tilis  old 'imbecile  assumed.  "IJut, 
sir,  this  is  absurd.  You  iniglit  as  well  collect  a  duty  on  the 
clothes  which  I  wear  aiid  seize  them  I" 

The  otticer,  indignant  and  red  Avith  offended  dignity. 
"Seize  your  clothes,  sir!  The  (^ueen,  sir,  would  not  do 
such  a  thing.  This  language  is  very  indei-ent.  I  shall  be 
obliged,  to  my  great  regret,' to  ])rcvent  you  from  using  this 
instrument  this  evening.     Seize  your  clothes  !" 

A  dispatch  arrives  next  day.  lie  has  seized  my  [liano! 
Decidedly,  this  would  have  undeceived  me,  if  I  had  ever 


804 


yOTES  '>/'  -»  I'fAM'^T. 


** 


I 


KH'n  ubU' to  tamo  tluH  <-..lK'..t..r.  . 

fii-Htboii.'li,  witmy  c-..lkrtoi-. 

,,.ra  ..f  .■v.-l.:.!!,!-'.-^  "'l-l'  ;■'   ''."-  ' ;'  ,„,,u.     At  I'liila- 

AVc  nro  ju>t  clo^slnJ,  »,,nn'iu  <''on  us  which  is 

that  inc-ommmhlo  "^"'»»""^:,;^V    ,','"''  ^u\,t  visit  to 
callcl  tho  k  agani  ^^-^^^  m     ?  bonUor   to  spc-ak  of 
XM.Ki-.i-'i  was  in  l)o('Ciul)er  with  AKiiu.  v^omui  ^       i 
^  -^  1  f .^1       Tho  country  is  inundato.h     A  travi-  Ut  a\  ho 

rain  soenis  to  hicveaso  ^'■^^'^^'H^l  -^  ,,.^^,  ^.^  who  would 


J 


Nnri:s  o\  r.i.v.i/).i. 


n05 


(.  Avlu'ii  tliry  <'()in- 
juHtf*.     1  liiivo  n(»t 

'riu'iH'  wciv  fifty 
•il,  and  for  uliom 
i-rt  (»f  ri'ct'ipts,  wo 

luiilu'tuv,  on  tho 


iiriaii  spirit  wliidi 
IS,  iiiiil  tlii'V  iirriyo 
ii-olili'iiis  wliirh   in 
nomists,     'fill'  sy^'- 
.lici-s  of  iiiusif  in 
•uui.U'.     At  riiila- 
)r  of  music,  u;ivys 
of  a  tailor,  who  in 
;  wiiolc  j-oarl     At 
1(1  i>;i\H'  liim  tickets 
0  pi-ofossionally  f«>i' 

=1  nmrvol  of  science, 
an  genius  which  is 
.  ]My  last  visit  to 
Cordier  (to  speak  of 
L  A  traveller,  who 
me  that  the  lower 
erireihand  that  thoy 
onthofMay!"    The 

t  was  wc  who  would 
:ry  editor?  Here  is, 
as  suggested  on  my 
he  most  ahominahle, 

his  piano  niul  draw- 
ls," Ah,  Strakosch  ! 
nd  let  us  hope  that, 
5  venom,  this  terrihle 

daily  duty  without 
i-sive  and  Corkoniau 


theories  of  lllll^i<•.  For  iiiv  «'wn  part,  T  ask  no  moiv  ol 
lilin  ;  and  1  admit  that,  if  f  had  had  a-^  mncli  to  «oiiiplaiii 
(if  iVoni  one  of  his  employes  as  lie  luul  of  Strakosdi,  1 
should  have  heeii  still  moiv'scvi'iv  on  his  prose  than  lie  has 
Ikvii  on  my  music,  ami,  piiliai>s,  neither  of  us  would  iiavu 
(Innc  wrong. 

I'.rilliaiit  concert  at  Hulliilo. 

1  have  taken  a  miillitiide  of  notes  on  Canada.     W  iiat  _ii 
fii'-hlfiil  <()iintrv!     It  is  enough  to  let  you  know  that  it   is 
i-Miitiallv    Catholic     Irish    and     French    (what     Fivncli? 
I.nw    Normans  of  the  scvcnttriith  century)   vicing  with 
each  other  in  fervent  rage,  that  is,  as  to  wliich  shall  have 
the  most  churches,  Hcrmoiis,  monks,  and  ot  white,  hlack, 
and  -•ravnuns.    The  Ohlatc  Fathers,  who  promenade  (^lehec 
in  their  iilthy  cassocks,  are  only  hypocritical  forms  oiit- 
rauconslv    rnhiciind    and  (uly,  or  igiiohly  emaciated  and 
famished.     The   pulpit    is   a    throne;    the   eonl'essional    a 
citailcl.     I  despair  of  humanity.     (^iel»ec_  exhales  the  eii- 
fei'ldiiiij:  higotrvof  a  iiopuhition  preserved  in  ignorance  and 
hriitislmess.    'iMio  children  are  weakly,  and  there  are  many 
idiots  and  deformeih     The  skilled  native  pianists  halaiice 
hetwcn  'La  Yiolette'  hy    ller/.t  an<l   'I'Ange   di-clm'  ot 
Kalkhrcimer.      Tim  Chevalier  (Jouanere   is  a  genius.  La 
llarpe  tho  first  French  poet.      The  old   Fri'uch   famil  '.s 
Avho   possess   property    are   called   'Ja'S   Sagiu'urs   de   St. 
Herein,  do  la  iMontagiie,  ou  de  St.  Maurice'     The  popu- 
lation of  Lower  Canada— hase,  la/y.  slavish,  and  supersti- 
tions—is  despised  hy  tho  English.     Jt  returns  it  in  jealous 
hatred.     Kvc^ry  Sunday  in  the  sermon  at  high  mass  this 
phrase  invariilhly  reai)pears  :    "Aliove  all,  my  chddren,  do 
not  sully  yourselves  hy  entering  the   threslu.ld   ot    those 
di'us  uf  iierdition  called  theatres."     They  permit  magu- 
lanterns,  the  circus,  and  iiui)pet  shows. 

The  [)olka  is  Ibrhidden  ;  the  waltz  prohihited  ;  the  lan- 
ccre  is  tolerated.  Judge  of  the  intellectual  level  with  this 
riyhnc!  The  women ^ire  thin,  with  sallow  complexions. 
Tiie  walls,  the  houses,  the  streets  distil  nnita.  Lveiy 
moment  young  men  are  seen  in  long  hliie  surtoiits  (the 
old  Levite)  with  vellow  ediringC.)  and  green  scarfs  wound 
around  their  waists.  These  are  the  college  students, 
which,  it  is  useless  to  say,  are  directed   hy  the   priests. 

2G* 


r 


.,^^^.  yOTKS  OF  A  riAMST. 

II tu.h,... ;/';';i:i^:if:riJ;;!:;;':;;'h;;l;l>- 

,„i„nl,  »l..".'  """'■'  ""■-*  >"';.'■,,  ..i.Tiinl  In.lhC!!. 
I;,,!,.  ,U,,.I,  K„a  l.H  .v.;;.;;.  ;■;,■,■;, '|n,l,w„y  ,;..l.l-r. 

TIb'V  liavv  limiUll  .1  (h.   1  "    .'  liik.w.Mii.  m\ 

,.„„.  l.nm;i  "..IH  k;  -;      ,    '  "U-uu.i  ...  ><i.  iv"(' 

K.;';  wi, 11-  -1';:  /;v:;;;;.*H„."'  1  ,..;'• ;'  'n-ii-'v 

*'i;fpoii.i.^iiu,- -rui  ,.iay.;vi;wii--:;/':«;!;;f  ;;,,„;');:; 

,ec.n.  t..  1.0  taken  ''•''''\.';,;'''  ,  \ .,?  u- fiu.l  tlH.iron-in  n. 

uru  (krivcil. 

Hero  mm  again  tvavollin.  ai^or  a  Ion,  JM-^ 
,,.,,1  ,,,,ose  four  niont hs  ^^1*  |-"^;'  "  c,  ,,  ...m,  folLnvixl  Uv 

many  others,  »^^"vf  ^''^  ^'L    *'V\V.V' r  !^.,.-,t-„,,^r  ton  or  twoUc 

;.v,i.  for  the ',  Athu.t.o  Mont  b ,  , ;"  ;;„'^,,,,„a  i,-u..vs 

letters   .hiily,  ni    ^■<>"n'*'r*"f'  ,,,u^,  t  ,o  a-is  of  a  b.-rrowed 

ir ;i^t\sZlJ^U;;ui:r:;U.,!r\vhieh  are  ^u.  ..out  to  he 

J      I         nf  '  7  Octaves'  Bomu 
.  T1.0  .nn.or   --P'-;-;;^:';onxj;;£:r;hau  hi.  ordinary  ones, 
cliarming  liUlo  piecos,  but  luo.c  .a^y 


an.isn  itau.w  nrnn.i  coMrAsy. 


ao7 


•i.iiiit  t'l'  li'if*  iiiif^t-r- 
•tiTiiiil  tnilliCM. 

ms,  luki'W.iriii  nti'l 
,U,.,1  to  St.  VvU'Y 
wiii(l"\v  t)t'  a  1>(»<»K- 

Woun'  (.1  Tl.allKr,U' 
uto  the  wIk'U'  I'H'- 
iuiIki-  of  liyiiiiirt  to 

.iHinuMVixu'.'  Tbo 
•V    cvi'iiini:   ('""■"'■  ''■■' 

,-H  i.o(Miliiinty  n\>on\ 

,,,h,ir.     Do  tl.ry  ii«-t 

l>,ui'l«U"  K.Hk"f     Oil 

V  tiiitl  tliriiM>nu;in  m 

,„,Um.     TIh.   KiTu.l. 

,u«s,l.ntonly  ''y  <''*■'"' 
ily  colonists  of  LoWt'l* 

tiifso  singular  uaiuos 


Novembor  1,  If***-*. 

Llont;  iri'oso,  if  I  "'.''>' 

vrtsj.ut  tilled  \n  Nvith 

Sarato'jca,  f<.llowi><l  by 

proofs',  scriWl'linsX   »" 

iWritiiit;  ton  or  twelve 

ow  con>nil)an(l  I'U'ccs 
ho  iv->is  of  u  borrowftl 
rthich  if  not  gocd  aiv 
1  are  just  about  to  be 

P  vlnm,'   of  '  7  Octavos'  Bomo 
u£u  than  hi.  ordinary  ones. 


lai,n.'l.e.l  int..  tlu-  serene  eternity  ol  ..bli\  lo,.,  or  n.to  the 
ocean  of  erilirisiuiiiHl  niiil.'volence 

"  ,,  „„.,,  •„,     „,,i„,,a  H.onll.  n.ro,n.  a  ebantv  .•on- 

.,;,';l.;ani.e.l  by  ..me  h.ii-.   ;-'i  i"'?''*,^;;;'.. ;::; 

..l.uritv  eon.-erts  an-l  iVoin  V.vh  patrom-.e;^ .        ...  at.    at 
li^l.t  an  ab..se,  an-l  the .,,ublie  .ares  ht.le  M   'be  art  s 
ba.  ..rlias  not  !jlm>  his  ^-rviees.     (lb-re  speak  ot   lb  •  I...  - 
I^MH    I'ubru/  To    relate    the    eon.-ert   ol    W  ollenlnu.pt. 
Ilissi'tl  outravfeoMsly.  .       i/.  ,,, 

I    met  here  .lay  before  yesterday  '  The  Assoeiat.d  (  o,,,- 
,,anv  o  tist/  T.sta  and    bis  wife,  the  tenor  Melani, 

„i:.,andNladana.I.oriMi,and.b.-Nlaestnv  >-^^^^ 
of  uastronon.ie  an.l  punnin.^  n.ena.ry  It  .s  tl';'  N  l* 
fMi  Devivowbo  nianauces  the  ulmlo  tbni-.  I  i>  t'oni-c 
;;:,;,;;  ;,ms  itself  ..ntluM|.ybills  HJrandltahan,.^^^^^ 
Conipanv/  Their  list  of  plays  consists  ..I  h.;satoi  , 
'  ei"  Ln.re/.ia;  and  many  otheroperas.  'erta.n  male- 
V  spirits  miud.t    p<'rbaps  remark  that  the  absence  ot 

.        ises'and  of  orchestra,  ..f  decorations,  an.l  o  basso  pro- 
f      1     was  injurious  to  the  etle..t,  but  .n  ret nrn,  tb.-  i.lavn.,s 
,.:i  .^  imKMle.l  bv  these  mr..sKori..s  K'nus  sin-nlarly  in 
vvm'    yf    ^llu.T.-/ia;"lPuritani;and-Pr..vat..re    .•anal 
be  j.lav.d  tb..  same  evening!  the  whole  m  tw..  h.'urs  and  a 

'''M'itn.'v^ 

nanv'  L'ave  '  Liicr.'/ia.'     In  the  supper  s.^en..,  wh.-n  Ma.l 
C  a  nmies  t..  tlu.  passage  of  '  Vaso  .r..r..,' she  S;'y-      '^t 
tl  e  .^.Id  an.l  silv.-r  vase  .-f  the  Uorgia  amounted  to  a  bh.e 
;    hu;  pit.-h..r  of  wat..r  an.l  two  tuml  ers     ;'-,;•;;;;'-. 
au.lien..e,  wl...  di.l  not  un.h.rstaiid  a  bit  ..t   Its   laii,  noi   o 

1  .  ;  =  .  put  np  with  the  glass  for  the  '  Vaso  ,  '..n.  (cup  ot 
J,l,). Mad.' Testa,  .m  seeing  the  Ih-in.hsi  sung  with 
'^1  i  Hin-nilar  ..up  was  tak.-n  with  a  tit  of  aught.-r  which 
."  uJht  bv  Ors..nigo  (iennaro.  The  a,al,..nc.s  hmku^ 
tl  at  the  lauu4,ter  was  a  part  ..f  the  ..p.'ra  thought  the  p.  e 
„mrvell..usly  played,  and  laughe.l  till  th..y  ••n^;'\»  "  /''*^ 
opc.ra  ..f '  huere/.ia'  en.le.l  anu.l  the  applause  ..t    he  hall. 

'  I  another  pla.'e  Loon..ra  ('Trovatore  )  was  i..rewarn.;d 
tbat  she  must  not  .li..;  an.l  wheretbre?  "  JJeeause  y..u  w,U 
be  .)bliir...l  after  falling  <lead  to  g.;t  up  and  go  out  betoio 
the  au.lieuet.,  since  there  id  no  eurtam. 


308 


NOTES  OF  A  riAMST. 


tenor 


ererc'  of  'Trovatore,'  l^^'^; '  f  ,     \:  ^^,  ^o  with  .o  nuu-h 
Luna  and  Aznoona  ^'-^'^'^^^\^^^  that  the  task  of 

pinunii,-!;  this  hinicntaoic  ai^    i   l  „,,      corporal  coni- 

,lo;.k  of  the  altar  f-^^,^^^^  to  the  co,\stcrnatlon 
mcnccl  to  his  .-rcat  ^'^^^^^''^Vof  thTcWtcrs  (the  Cointe 
of  tlKM,rc4K'straa'>^'l^'-';''\^V^"^\?/,;!^^^'^;^^;;!S^ 

Mo,..,«,l     Ito  "««- 1  '■■™!  U  '     !:„„      ami  took  o1,a,-go 

was  ;"'i;^rf=  t  whcmc  vas  the  merry  connmnion  ot  my 
regret  the  tunc  ^y  ^  \  ^^  '  ^^  ^.^..^^^t  of-the  atllH-tion-Avhu-h 
comrany.     Ihis  is  P^iJ  -^ l^j'^^  ^^  ^^^  ^i,,,  .a.k-.l  that,  his 

he  has  for  "^*-^/^^\t^^J^"'^,i\\,  ^"l^,  .U  h  or  German,  lieh- 
companions  not  spcakmg  einiti  i^u^n- 

reus  can  no  more  perpetrate  puns.  Novemt)er  29. 

Concert  at  rrovidence,  poor  enough,     rrovidenco  is  de- 
cidedly going  Ijehindhand.  November  30. 

n     ,.,.t  ot  -Roston     Yerv  great  success.     Morelli  sings 
Conceit  at  ^^^ton.     n  e  y  g  ^^     ^  ^o  the  old 

remarkably  well,     lie  '?^^;'"»"'/   "  .,,^.,..;i.,  to  be  ignorant 

sch...l  of  :^-^f;^^^^^  ^Zl  «crea^^  to  be 
of  the  axiom  ot  tlie_  \  euustaa  luai  ^^ 

a  consunnnate  vocalist.  December  1. 

,     T^.  4.     Tv^;.i.1  .nidience.    Fdi'cs  to  iiud'C 

less,  passably. 


BOSTON,  lSTELUi;EyT,  LITERARY,  I'oU^UEU.     309 


vQi\  with  a  ^w^ovh 
horns  in  the  '  Mis- 
t*.  The  Cdiiite  »li 
,nce  witli  f">  ii»uc-h 
in  that  the  task  of 

devolved.     (I'ho 

The  corporal  eoin- 

D  the  consternation 

oristers  (the  Cinnte 

having  inipertnrh- 

llis  snceesrt  was 
connected  with  it. 
it,  and  all  their  snh- 
pnrpose  to  ai»i>laud 
I  lowed  next  day  the 
o-ive  'Trovatore'  at 
'Miserere' with  some 
her  and  took  charge 
id  Azneena  accepted 
nt  they  escaped  into 
at  was  ahout  to  take 
■ri  me.  that  the  ett'ect 
L'hrensl  he  seems  to 
ry  companion  of  my 
)f  the  atfect ion- which 
i  also  added  that,  his 
iish  or  German,  13eh- 

November  29. 
[i.     Providenco  is  de- 
November  30. 

access.  Morelli  sin^s 
iiii'h  young,  to  the  old 
,^il)ears  to"  be  ignorant 
ou  must  scream  to  he 

December  1. 

dience.    Faces  to  mnke 
I  trot  along,  neverthe- 


Conccrt  at  Boston.     Great  success. 


Docomber  2. 


DecemUor  3. 

Matinee  in  the '  Music  HalF  with  the  grand  organ.    .1 

nlavs  remarkably. 

'■     "  Poc't'iiilicr  4. 

Adieu  Boston',  vou  arc  stift",  pedantic,  exclusive  (Mr.  D. 
is  it  ouX)  Your  enemies  say  that  you  are  cold  and 
1.  Its  ^I'l^;;-'  ,,.  J       .  ti^^t  vou  are  intflhgent,  literary, 

;;;;;Xl ;  t  .  '^^ol^'p^lantry,  if  yon  have  any,  would  be 
Ix'n.sable,  if  it  had  produced  only  the  grand  organ  ..t  the 
Mii<"i..  Ibdl  that  li'lorious  monument. 

^iXm  u  ve'mu.h  like.l  to  know  L<v,.gt^-llow  person- 
all  v'bu    his  habitual  nK.lancholy,  and  t^'^'   'l''-'^^?/    ,  ^^ 

'""\\-e  lv,vo  no  tn,.liti«i.»  i"  AiiuTi™.     Aiohyol,«.v.  Il.e 

„ot   appeal  to  our  in.agmation      I  haxe  ''^^V^         /;,  ,   j, 
„wi  a.Hl  .l»>ly  Kla.lc  «■(.  me  to  ,la.a„n„g.     All  u.J 

"■Ti;:;Xn'^"T;;t'"^i^M-«'vt7;i.!;w;*- 

nf  \ir.eric-i  It  is  delicious  in  our  epoch  nt  palatial  stoics 
t  ^  ^iu  one  of  those  old  shops,  dusty,  -nduv  con- 
Lling  iiider  their  antiuuity  that  poetic  pcrtume  ^shuh 


810 


\OTKS  OF  A  riAXl.'^T. 


..hvavs  is  as.(.ciatiMl  will,  tl.c-  i.a.t.     llcir  i;''^\\\"^':";''';f '•';^ 

ir^;;^  v^-    Ivhit.i';,  t^o  ...10.110,.  (iuak..  .11.1  ti.o 

s.   ne      l.n     .-.l  l.v  Fi.Ms  to  siK.n.l  tin.  .v.nn,.  with     n.n, 

T  u^:t  t      V  the  •int.lli.vnt  aristorra. y  of  l'>osto„.     Jl.u.t 

ho    U    -Itnu.  ,c.n,v  paint..-,   H.>lm.s,  th.  =.>';ns.nK  n^l 

ns..n.a  a,.thor  of  th.  'Aut.uM-at  ot  »1-    •,'; ;'\  r^,  '^^  ^ 

'  ,     nniiv  otluM-s.     Tho  ir.iuM'o.is  hosi-itaht)    ^^  Ui<  U   .M.i>- 

1      1.     Xr   to  hcM-  trncts  is  worthy  of  th.  vr^.nU.Uou  whu-h 

1.      as  La  a..swo,-s  to  tlu«  iaoa  wlu-h  o...  to,....  v..l.n. 

J  riU     f  tho  ...Ituiv  a..a  .u-ha..ity  of  the  s.n-u'ty  ot   the 

fi.llow  ai.a  his  win-,  two  a.hi.inil'le  hoaas.      1  ^^'  l'>"i  i  ;\a>, 

'Uai'uiatc4toi,.s,i.vth....cao.li...svo.-s^^^ 

Tlinhp-ia  of  Loi>'>-fcllow  answi-.-^i  tho  idoal  an  h yli  \\t  i'>n» 

ot-  a  W  1  o         Nothi,..,^  oan  ho  ...o,v  ..oMo  tha,.  tho  oo,.- 

o,.r  of    .  s^  ia-o,  n.o,-o  hirn..o..io..s  tha,.  tho  .-ah,,  wh.c-h    t 

iMvathoshalf  voiloa  h.  tho  aopths  of  tho  .„.n.o,.so  workl. 

^V;,!i;;'i^^t;r\iSiovv  .a.  a  portrait    .inoh  fro,,  a 
i;  ;      .'.  r  to<.k  tor  that  of  8on.o  Italia,,  of  tho  Ro,iuissa„ro 
a,sta„<v  '       ''y      \"  !^,.„i  ,.t  tho  hottoni  tho  lithogi-aphod 
l:;r:;ft^B,;do;^;ir.ignod  i..anorvous  b,.t  logiblo 
At.Mx.i  .T   ,j,j^^  ^^^_,^^j^  1^^^^.    ^^^   iianason.o,   not   so 


^'''■t  "'^''^Vli-ltof  Jon.S:w';>s.ti,(:t-h.     Tho  swollo,. 

:; natKs^       ;  ia    hi;!  c;.on.iJs  say  Iho  etfoot  of  opi....^ 

;      ,.    Is  a,  oa.doV  .vo,\vhioh  Avorthily  cn.wns  a  ho.-oio  noso. 

M,   Fioa.:whoso  :-ollootion  of  a,.tog,-aphs  is  vory  no. 

.hol-i n.c  a:..  o,.ti..^-haptor  of  !>->-- ^.^^Xfaon 
r..s..„,hlos  friiitloss  offorts  at  sky,  sii.oko,  and  toUagt,  dyi.c 
hv^m  o  a    loss  a,-auirht....a,.;  ahor  an  uttontivo  oxa,..i.|a- 
L   i    i  oo voro.l  that  tho  spi.-als  whioh  looko.   hkc  smoke 
Wa      u    rinirs  whi<-li  I  l>aa   takon  for  olouas  wore     he 
a  t  o.-'s   mothoa  of  orasniv.     Ah   to   the   lolmce   it  a    j 
5  ^^J,.^s  manner  of  writi,.g      I  n.ust  ^^^-^^J^'^^ 
1  .,.  was  m.u-h  mo,.e  of  smoko  a,.a  ^<f^,^V^^^^^^ 
f.,li,.ro  which  i.rovos  to  the  adn.irors  ot  tho  flowing  an.i 
a  .'  r,  i;.Vstv  o\,f  l)ic-ko„s  that  it  is  not  witho.,t  pohshn.g 
«      "::iaori...,a,..l  ha...n.o.-ing,  swo,,t  '^-^  '-' '^^^ 
l,erto;;tiou  a,KUimplic-ity  are  arrived  at,  and  that  m  httia- 


0  M.r.CESAC  SEW  YORfERS! 


811 


[a wtl ionic's  first 
Imiittcd  to  tlii'iii 
(iiiiikcr,  iliil  thu 
I'liitiii'  with  liiiii, 
r)()slon.     Jlniit, 
111'  aiiiusiiiiX  :i!itl 
I'.ivakt'iist'PabU',' 
lity  wliii'h  Mrs. 
rcimtation  which 
one  iornirt  vohiu- 
0  society  of   the 
[lortrait  of  Loiig- 
Tlio  liittiTwas 
rsoof 'llyiicTion." 
il  -which  \vc  form 
)Mc  than  thocon- 
:hc  cahu  which  it 
•  imiucusc  worlds 

it.  which  from  a 
f  the  Renaissance. 

the  lithograplietl 
rvous  l)ut"  Iciiible 
lantlrtome,   not   so 
M-h.     The  swollen 
le  effect  of  opium) 
twnsii  heroic  nose, 
•siphs  is  very  rich, 
»"s  mannscript.     It 
.  and  foliage,  done 
attentive  examina- 
looked  like  smoke 
!•  clouds  were  the 
he  foliasie   it  was 

acknowledge  that 
nids  in  it  than  of 
i)f  the  flowing  and 

without  ])olisliing, 
t  and  troul)le,  that 
,  and  that  in  litci-ar 


ture  as  in  mineralogy  the  diamond  does  not  sparkle  until 
after  it  has  heen  polishi'd.  ■,,    .      i 

n.wton  possesses  what  New  Y<n-k  has  not  yet  ol.tamed 
two  comvrt  halls,  which  are  in  no  wise  interior  t  >  any  ot 
the    lai-'cst  con.'crt  halls  in  the  world,  and  which,  as  to 
ac.usti.;,  I  consi.ier  superior  to  the  hest  of  this  eonlmcnt 
•u.d   of   the   old  world   (TreiMont    Hall   and   Music    Ila  1). 
I'.csi.lcs  1    love  pedantry  and  vanity  when  they  engencU'r 
such  results  as  the  trreat  orsraii  and  the  bronze  statue  ot 
licethoven  in  the  library.     O  Miwenac  New  ^  orkers,  who 
hoa^t  of  the  irolden  patronage  you  accord  to  art,_wliat  are 
your  titles'?  '  Is  it  perchance  that  usurious  enterprise  w.iich 
i<  cilled  the  'Academy  of  Music,'  by  which  you  will  draw 
iVoUL  the  impressario  a  double  tax  under  the  torm  ot  exorl)i- 
t'liit  rent  and  irratuitous  admission?     ^  ou  kill  the  opera  at 
X,.w    ^'ork,   vou   place   the   impressario   m   laco  ot   this 
dilemma,  to  be  honest,  that  is  t..  say,  become  bankrupt, 
or  to  i.rosper,  that  is  to  say,  rob  his  creditors.       n  view  of 
the  ultimatum  we  are  not  astonished  at  the  litte  hesita- 
tion with  which  the  greater  ].art  have  ehosen  the  latter 
alternative,  and  we  consi.ier  that  you  are  ri'sponsible  for 
the  ruinous  deception  prac-tised  upon  tne  poor  artists  wiio 

have  not  been  paid. 

December  5. 

Concert  at  Ilarrisburg.     Charming  audience.     ' 

December  6. 

Brilliant  concert  at  Tittsburg.  They  take  here  de- 
cidedly. I  have  never  given  a  concert  here  Avhich  did  not 
i.av  nie.  I  plaved  upon  a  s(piare,  piano,  my  graiul  not 
having  arrived  in  time.  On  commencing  I  cast  a  look  o 
i/itv  on  it.  "Poor  little  thing,  thou  dost  not  know  wliat 
•iw'iits  thee."  But  the  valiaiit  little  i-iano  did  not  flincli, 
iuKl  sustained  the  assault  without  losuig  a  string  or  a 
hammer. 


312 


yOTES  OF  A  I'lAMST. 


CIL\PTER  XIX. 

AVe  tnivollod  from  llamslMirc:  to  Pittshnrir  l»y  niiilit; 
not  a  slcv])iiitr-car,  tlK'  woivt  wrutlicr  in  tlio  woil.l,  .•..1<1 
and  rainv,  an<l  foiirti'i'n  hours  union,!!;  soMicrs,  sniokin,u\ 
Hin.'-in",  swcarinir,  and  dohiL-  all  ni.irlit.  \\>v  tlicir  <.\vn  yWn- 
miv,  i^vmtl)inii-"  tlia    could  l.o  most  .lisatrnyiil.lo  t..  otlicTs. 
Onr  fivili/ation   lias    some  singular  di-tiL.oncios.      1  lir- 
conii'orts  w!iu-li  wo  possi'ss  in  the  inti-riorofour  honsc-s  and 
in  our  hotels  disappear  as  soon  as  we  travel.     Mi<j,lit  we 
not  have  nianv  seats  so  arranired  that  hy  payni.tr  a  little 
more  a  la<lv  and  gentleman  might  he  eertam  ot  tmdmg 
duriiiii  their    )ourney  the  security  and  repose  wliieli   tlio 
laws  of  our  eountry  give  us  a  right  to  demand.'      Is  i 
proper  that  vour  .lauirhter,  your  sister,  shoul.l  he  exposed 
without  intermission  to  the  gross  and  protane    language 
and  to  theohseene  songs  of  a  mixed  society  which  the  want 
of  a  divisioi'  of  seats  forces  you  to  suhmit  ioi     \  ou  will 
tell  me  that  our  repuhlicau  institutions  are  opposed  to  tlieso 
divisions.     I  do  not  think  so.     You  A\ould  have  as  much 
ri..ht  to  force  all  citizens  to  have  their  hands  calh.us  an.l  not 
to'^wear  gloves,     r.esides,  have  you  not  tirst  and  second 
clasH  hotels?     Have  you  not  at  theatres  p  aces  suited  to 
all  purses?     One  can  he  a  repuhlicau   and   not   like  the 
society  of  those  who  drink  every  five  minutes,  pick  their 
teeth  with  their  penknife,  use  their  fingers  tor  handker- 
chiefs and  eat  sausaixe  and  keep  you  in  rememhrance  .1  it 
throiK'-ii  its  odour  a  lonir  time  after  the  sausage  has  dis- 
•inicared.     Do  not  make  a  mistake  as  to  what  1   thmk. 
I  am  far  from  elaimiuL'  an  aristocratic  privilege  in  iavonr 
of  the  rich  (of  all  aristocracies  this  is  the  most  ahsurd  and 
the  least  lo-nc-aluhm  T  demand  in  the  name  ot  civili/ation 
an  end  of ''some  kind  to  the  ahuse  which  turhulent  and 
cross  majorities  exercise  toward    intelligent  an<l   \f^f\'\ 
minorities,  whether  it  he  in  railroa.l  cars  or  m  the  tieid 
of  polities.     1  do  not  intend  to  say,  because  u  man  can 


ABUSES  OF  TURniLKST  MAJOUlTIi:'^. 


ni3 


tlio  worM,  i'i)l(l 
Micrs,  sinokiiiu;, 

tliiir  own  l>k'a- 
vi;ililo  to  others. 
•fii-.i'iH'ios,     Tlii- 
t'our  lioiisi's  aiul 
ivc'l.     Miirlit  wc 
•  iiiiyintr  a  little 
•rtiiin  of  liiuUiij; 
■pose  which   tlio 
deiiiiiiur.'      Is  it 
oiild  he  exiio>e(l 
iroi'aiie   liiii,u;uairo 
V  which  the  \v:int 
it  to'^     You  will 
'  ojiposed  to  these 
(I  have  as  iiuuli 
Is  callous  anil  not 

first  and  second 

places  suited  to 
iiid  not  like  tlio 
inutes,  pick  their 
rers  for  haiidker- 
L'nieinhrance   if  it 

sausage  lias  dis- 
to  what  I  think, 
rivilogo  in  favour 

most  ahsurd  and 
ino  of  civilization 
ieh  turhulent  and 
jeut  an<l  jiolished 
rs  or  in  the  field 
.'cuuso  a  man  can 


pay  more  for  a  seat  he  must  eo!ise(nu'ntly  hehave  in  it 
m.'.rc  dcceiitlv  than  a  I'oor  man  (far  from  that,  for  the 
0(.iitrarv  theory,  alas!  mi-i'lit  he  proved  victoriimsly),  hut 
im.l.iMhtedly  wealth,  i>articularly  in  a  new  society,  heinji; 
treiicrallv  the  proof  of  social  position,  we  shall  he  less  ex- 
posed aiid  more  rarely  find  neighliours  who  would  tread 
upon  our  toes,  spit  over  us,  smoke  under  our  nose,  swt'ar, 
and  take  a  siimMilar  ]ileas-ire  in  distnrhinu  us  when  wo 
wish  to  slecj..  iindcr  the  jirotest  that  we  live  in  a  rcpuhlie 
and  that  const'tpiently  -very  one  ha>  a  riirht  to  do  what 
he  pleases,  and  tliat  "oik  mim  is  as  good  as  another;  ho 
who  does  not  wear  trloves  having  the  right  to  make  another 
who  does  understand  that  he  "is  at  least  his  eiiual  if  he  is 
not  liis  superior.  All  this  is  ahsurd  and  unworthy  of  ih 
in  fifty  years  this  will  have  disappeared,  and  our  children 
will  pitv  us  for  having  so  long  tolcrati'd  sucl.i  an  ahuse. 

Again,  another  thing.  In  order,  midonl)tedly,  that 
ladies  may  he  ahlo  to  avoid  bad  company,  there  are  rail- 
road cars,  called  'ladies'  cars,'  to  which  men  hv  themselves 
aro  not  admittetl.  Von  may  imagine  the  logic  which  has 
ja-csided  over  this  marvellous  iii'-ention  when  yoii  see  a 
greasv  immiirrant  and  his  'wife,'  or  your  coachman 
and  his  wile,  or  your  cook,  who  have  the  right  to 
pass  the  gates  of  paradise,  which  are  forhiddeii  to  you,_ 
if,  perchance,  you  belong  to  the  disinherited  category  of 
bachelors.  Then,  again,  the  insolence  of  the  yuhaltern 
employes!  Trollojie  has  perfectly  seized  this  national 
trait.  Are  you  well  dressed,  the  man  in  tattt'i-s,  whom 
circumstances  accidentally  give  a  superiority  over  you, 
embraces  it  with  avidity  ;  he  reclaims  his  dignity,  which 
ho  thinks  compromised  in  tho  presence  of  your  geiitlemanly 
ai>pearance,  and  crushes  you  with  all  his  pleboian  insolence. 

A  conductor  in  the  West  will  never  say,  in  speaking  of 
you,  'this  gentleman,'  but  '  tliis  man,"  particularly  if,  by 
your  dress  and  polite  niannei*s,  he  recognizes  in  you  your 
superiority  over  him. 

Wo  accuse  travelli'i's  who  dc»  not  speak  of  us  advan- 
taffoously  of  cxasrsreration  and  taking  sides,  and  we  hate 
them  so  much  the  more  as  we  ourselves  well  know  that 
they  have  spoken  the  truth;  and  we  pardon  with  difHi  iijty 
those  who  discover  our  weaknesses  aiul  our  oddities. 
27 


314 


NOTES  OF  A  PI  AS  f ST. 


AVouM  it  not  be  more  voas.Muil.lo  fur  us  to  corroot  our- 

''^int'tllnu-  is  the  Piriningl^am  of  the  Unito.!  States.  The 
jH.trole.nn^vells  have  given  an  ^fy^^^^^^^^'^^^i:}'^^' 
o  its  al.va.ly  so  great  ^rospenty.  It  l'\-^^7'%*''-j;>  '''  , 
(,r  tiftv  large  steani  faetones;  two  lunuhva  steam  oil 
retim'r  es;  n^lmy  eann<.n  fouu.leries,  one  ot  wln.l.     h.  n.ost 

^nsi,lerable,lu;;  <-ast  the  l="-J^-'7'':'>'r  ^-'^^'-Vi^ ''":;;:  ;v: 
of  pounds  eaoli,  an.l  twenty-eight  leet  long.      Ihe  spetnla- 
?ioi      in  oil  are  unl.ear.l  of.      A  young   Kngl.shimjj   of 
nv  ac<^aintanee  plaee.!  his  capital,  .mo  tbousan.1  dM  ars 
which  he  had  with  diffi.-ulty  amassed  m  n  small  tia.  e,  lu 
aiVoloum   eompany.      lu   fifteen   months  his  one    hoi> 
ean.l  .hollars  had  Vain.Ml  him  seventy-hve  thousan.l!  !     A 
O 0  man    aii.)r,  whon,  I  know,  l..>u.rht,  three  years  a^o,  a 
pi^.;."  of  gnund  in  Pennsylvania  whi-'h  e.^st  hlmtl^e  th..u- 
iand  dollars.     The  nature  of  the  s.nl  gave  l;';<'|';;^^'  /;   '^ 
wells,    lie  divi.le.1  his  gr.)und  into  sixteen  lots,  ^  »    1    'ucd 
a  e.)mpany  for  expl.)ring  it.     They  dug-the  ml  ICnn  out 
II     s  Id  twelve-sixteenths  at  thel'ate  ot  thirty  thousand 
d  Ihirs  ea.-h,  that  is  to  say,  f..r  three  lum.lre.l  an.l  sixty 
Sand  di  Uirs,  an.l  at  ti.e  last  date  the  tour-sixteen  hs 
whil-h  he  ha.l  reserved  was  produeing  lum  seven  hun.lred 
dollars  per  day  1 

•Wednesday,  Dooembcr  7- 

Second  eoneort  at  Tittsburg.  An  immense  ^-rojyd.  All 
mv  nieees  enwred.  Spent  the  remam.ler  ot  the  evening  at 
ff  witli  Mr.M.,musie\.ublisber,an.l  two  eharming  French 
o-o'.itlpmon  G  an.l  T.,  pr.ifessors  of  singmg. 
^'S  on  Lg;:in  from'l^ittsburg  ^  two  o  clcH-k  m  Ine  jnoni- 
ing.  Ni-ht  cold  an.l  endless.  ■> c.t  a  sleepmg-car !  (  Id 
am"  one  in  the  East  imagine  a  railway  company  without  a 
Bleeping-car  1 

Thursday,  December  8. 


1 


Arrived  at  half-past  ten  o'clock  in  the  nu  nmg  at  C  leNC- 
ln„d  It  is  bitter  cold.  The  North  wind  blows;  the  lake 
ill  '  its  rreat  brown  waves.  The  sky  is  wan.  Some 
a    ert  that  deveiand  is  charming.     I  have  alwavs   ,.un. 

U^  reml^ly  dull.    Besides,  the  1'<>^^1^,;1-- »-;",  'llf  ^ 
you  have  to  feed  on  bread  and  eggs  rather  than  perish  w  ith 


CLFA'KLAM)  AM>  HMt  IKH'KLS. 


"1  ^ 


\  to  corro(^t  onr- 

itotl  States.  The 
liiuiry  hniiulsion 
ossi's  to-tluy  inrty 
ii(li-»'(l  Htcam  oil 
t'AvliU'li,  till'  most 
■iifliinii:  llioiiSiindH 
no-.  Tlir  Piic'C'ula- 
:;  Kii<:;lisl\i.iiiii  of 
thousiiiKl  dollars, 

I  a  small  trade,  in 
tlis  his  otic  thou- 
e  thousand!  !  A 
throe  years  apto,  a 
■ost  hi'ni  ti\e  thoii- 
ve  ])roiinse  of  oil 

II  lots,  and  formed 
—the  oil  tlew  out. 
)f  thirty  thousand 
unidred  and  sixty 
lie  four-sixteenths 
dm  seven  hundred 

inpsday,  Doccmbcr  7- 
niense  ennvd.     All 
■r  of  the  evening  at 
o  eharming  Freneh 
ing. 

,\4oek  in  the  morn- 
eeiiing-ear!  Could 
eompiiny  without  a 

'liursday,  Pcccmber  8. 
i>  niorning  at  Clevc- 
ind  hlows;  the  lake 
ky  is  Avan.  Some 
have  always  found 
hi're  are  so  had  that 
ler  than  perish  Avith 


hnmrer.  T  am  assured  that  the  old  hotel  has  heen  rejilaced 
on  the  same  site  hy  a  new  one  in  tlie  same  style  as  tho.-e  at 
tlu'  Kast. 

heridedly,  the  die  is  cast.  Cleveland  is  devoti'd  to  had 
hotels,  the  hill  of  liire  ostentatiously  enntiiining  an  inter- 
ininahlu  list  of  dishes,  not  one  of  wliieli  is  eatahle.  The 
lish  are  too  stale,  the  soup  greasy  water,  the  hutter  rancid, 
the  turkey  too  tough;  tlie  ox  has  had  to  work  too  long 
lu't'ore  he'eame  to  give  hattle  to  our  jaws.  lam  helpeil 
to  a  pi-eserve  of  such  detestahle  tasti'  that  I  give  uji  eating. 
Till'  lea  tastes  of  ehamomile  and  hay.  Kverything  is  so 
dirty — so  hadly  prepared!  I  hurry  to  get  to  ("hi<ago; 
it  is  really  \\w  only  eiU'  in  the  West  that  has  attained  the 
material  eivili/ation  of  Xew  York.  Xo  one  can  form  an 
idi'a  of  till'  imi  irtanee  which  a  good  hotel  has  for  us.  Wo 
arrive  ijenundii'd  with  cold,  fatigue<l  liy  a  long  ride,  and 
hunurv.     Let  anv  one  think  of  the  ilisapiiointment,  may  I 

*  •  111 

not  say  despan-,  in  not  tmdnig  hre,  re]iose,  or  good  beds. 

The  eonei'rt  this  evening  will  he  full.  All  the  places  are 
already  taken  this  morning. 

Splendid  concert;  we  have  given  a  douhle  ]irogramnie — 
every  jtieee  having  heen  encored.  My  'Cradle  Song,"  which 
I  ]ilayed  to  satist'y  a  private  request  that  reached  me  under 
the  form  of  a  note,  appears  to  have  givi'n  satistaction.  I 
took  notice  that  silence  eontinueil  the  whole  time,  no  con- 
versation annoyed  me  Avhile  1  played,  an<l  the  attention  of 
the  audience  was  not  distra<-ted  for  a  single  moment. 

I  am  daily  astonished  at  the  rapidity  w  ith  which  the 
taste  for  nnisic  is  developed  and  is  developing  in  the  I'nitt-d 
States,  At  the  1inu>  of  my  tirst  return  from  Europe  I  was 
constantly  deploring  the  want  of  puhlic  interest  for  jiieces 
juirely  sentimental ;  the  puhlic  listened  with  inditferenee ; 
to  interest  it,  it  hecame  necessary  to  strike  it  with  astonish- 
ment ;  graiid  movements,  tmirsilr  /Ii/w,  ami  noise  had  alone 
the  jirivilege  in  piano  music,  not  of  jileasing,  hut  of  mak- 
ing it  ]iatient  with  it.  I  was  tho_/7'/>/  Anu'rican  pianist, 
not  hy  my  artistic  W(  th,  hut  in  chronological  order,  l^e- 
fore  me,  there  were  no  piano  concerts  except  in  peculiar 
cases,  that  is  to  say,  when  a  very  great  name  arriving  from 
Europe,  placetl  itself  hy  its  celehrity  heforo  the  puhlie, 
which,  willing  ')r  miwilling,  through  curiosity,  and  fashion 


816 


NOTES  or  A  PTAXIST. 


.atl.r  than  from  ta.te,  ,naac  it  ^^;^i:^,Zt:^'J^:^ 

^'^"•'""^'  ;l'i'l^-"^^''  •■  ''';   .;'  v,S.'U  tasU-  is  k;-...uin-  purer, 

n,ul  with  that  rcinark.n.l.         >' .  ;^.;\  '   ,   „,,  ..c.,K.rati..u-of 
our  who  n  i.rotrross.     1  t>r  ton  \  i  ai^  a^  nn  n       r-_     ,  ^  ^,      ^ 

^onn.  KirlihaVc  vlayo.l  -^.I'-^^'^V.    on  1     '^ 'c'.'     h'- ' 

!;;;-j:i:i:e\c,;;;;iX-i:^^-<- 

Av!,i.-h  compose  the  proKnuunu'  ^  ^.^^  ^^^ 

^^'^  f '••"''  ''^r;;X  :  "C  s  "^ull^ementl.!'  civil, 
action,  hoar  our  pan  in  M-.^^^  ,„-iae  in  havu.-  .<....- 
izution,  an.l  1  cunnot  I  dp  ' ^ '^  -  .\  „,,,,,  i„  ,xtcn(l- 
+„;K,if,..l  \v  t1\iu  the  luoilest  linuis  oi   ni;v   i' 

and  greasy  soup,(loul)tKsrt  Tie  ^^  because  niv  tastes  are 

If,  on  the  contrary,  it  prospe  .,  \}^\\l'J^  -^  ,.•. ..^^^   u  is  I 
not  like  those  of  the  majority.     Um  hotel  i.  i  ..     , 

who  am  Avrong.  •„,. +^>,.  nmnmerce  of  all  kinds 

The  aptitude  of  the  Amer.ean  1^>     f  ^"^j     .  ^,j.  ,.i,  „,i,,a 
11  If  ij   liruvevi'r.  less  Tlic  ieiiiin>  vi 

is  luarvellous.     It  in  »">_^\';'^  \1  '  To  make  money 

than  the  sickly  thirst  *' J  "  f  "'f,  ';:^';i  tn.lc  is  very  useful 
is  the  end  of  al  '^^  U-olJ  W  ^v  ilh  re.p.ires  that 
in  a  society  ^vhlch  *;^™Vf  tl\.  c  m  mm  ^vc.ll-l.ciuu^hut 
every  one  should  contrihute  ^V,^^^'  >  '  ^j,  ^a.sorl.ed  in 
it  destroys  all  individuality,     ihc^^^^^^^^^^^  ^,^,,.,^   i,^  ,1, 

the  collective  ^vhole.  ^^^^]^Ji,^^h.voycn\n^y^>^:^^ 
United  states  ^vould  cert    nV^     1  na  ^^^.  ^,^^^,^^ 

of  gold  into  the  t^yV^f^.  ?f'^,\,^,^' ^^  one  of  my  iVien.ls 
"Lamartme  is  poor,    1  ki  .1  ""\  ^^f   ,  .  ^^^  ...^s  ^o  smart." 


T. 

ty  to  go  r.nd  see  tlio 
lU',  tlu'V  li:ivi'  «'Vi'n 
jj;s  tli'V  an-  iiIiusimI. 
U'  islK'i'i>iuin|ii;  imrcr, 
iicli  wo  citi-  tliroUL^li 
whole  trt'iu'ratiim  ot 
J.ast  UoiH','  'Manlie 
doivllc  c't  C'avaluT,' 
hii-  tliat  it  is  (lilHcMilt 
,  to  listi'ii  t(»  iiu'  'vvith 
or  stu(Ui.'<l  tin-  iiiocoii 

lay  l>e  our  siilu-ro  of 
e  Tuovi'UH'iit  of  civil- 
j.rido  in  liaviuij  ron- 
iiiV  jiowiTs  in  cxti-iid- 
liTt-  t)f  iiiusif. 
k-r  liotrl.     besides,  I 
that  in  th»'  saim"  way 
\itions  whifli  tlifv  <le- 
U  whii-h  thoy  di'si-rve. 
d  huttc'r,strin,ixyini'at, 
i)uldl.>oconu'haiikrnpt. 
bocauso  luy  tastes  arc 
3  hotel  is  riii-lit,  it  i^  I 

conimeroe  of  all  kinds 
lie  fertility  of  his  mind 
r.iev.     To^nake  money 
aptitude  is  very  usi'ful 
il  which  re(iinres  that 
omiiion  well-heiuichut 
idividual  is  absorbed  m 
L'elliui,  if  born    in  the 
have  thrown  his  vessel 
great  statue  of  IV'rrec. 
Y  to  one  of  my  friends, 
u.i-bt  he  was  so  smart, 
n'n-y  where  they  trive  a 
man.    Not  oidy  do  they 
iiore,  they  think  that  ho 


AyfF.nirAy  aptitct'I:  ron  commi.uci:. 


?,\1 


has  rendered  a  servieo  to  the  eonnmmity  m  wliirh  he  lives. 
For  a  Ion.--  tini(<  1  have  considen'd  tiiis  as  an  anomaly,  but 
I  have  emled  l.y  exi.lainimr  it  in  the  followinjr  maimer: 
Thev  think  it  kind  of  hini  to  have  fixed  m  the  eonnlrv  llio 
eapind  which  aiiiriueiits  its  prosperity.  It  is  always  utility. 
It  is  this  idea  which  inspires  the  newsi-apers  m  sinall  towns 
when,  on  tlu;  occasion  of  concerts  given  hy  gn^at  artists  on 
their  travels,  thcv  oppose  tla'so  invasions,  and  n'c(.inmeinl 
onlv  the  patronl/iiiii  t)f  local  concerts,  because  then  the 
iiu.ncy  docs  not  leaVe  the  locality.  ^  It   ^  lerstandmg 

civilization  after  the  manner  of  the  Chii 

Sanmhky,  Friday. 

("(.ncert  finite  good.  Kcalled  after  each  piece.  The 
audience  I'licored  us  all.  [Soino  officers  who  are  at  the  li..tel 
upcak  of  the  'show,'  and  a  man  came  to  the  ticket  ofhce 
for  a  ticket  to  the  panorama'. 

Saturday,  DecnmluT  10. 

Awoke  at  live  o'clock  this  morning.  The  snow  is  iivo 
in<-hes  deep  ill  the  street.  The  hotel  omnibus  is  lull— ^yo 
are  piled  up  in  it.  Wo  set  out,  but  the  wheels  are  soon  m 
a  rut.  The  horses  pull ;  the  traces  br(>ak ;  tno  horses  cliate, 
and  leave  the  <-arriage  in  the  road.  Time  presses ;  we  walk 
as  far  as  the  station  throuirh  the  snow  up  to  our  kiieis. 

Un  the  road.  Opposite  Sandusky,  on  the  lake,  we  aro 
a],proaching  .Tohnsou's  Island,  where  twenty-five  hundred 
Southern  pVisoners  are  eontined. 

Left  at  six  o'clock,  we  must  stop  at  Clyde,  a  small  village 
thive  miles  from  Sandusky,  to  await  the  train  wlinh  goes 
to  Toledo,  where  we  have  to  wait  again  for  two  lumrs  the 
train  which  arrives  at  Detroit  at  half-i.ast  six  o  clock  this 
evenintr.  lu  the  ear  I  found  myself  alongside  ot  a  Swiss 
who  has  been  living  for  four  yeai-s  at  Sandusky.  lie  has 
planted  three  acres  of  vines,  and  his  harvest  this  year 
amounts  to  twenty-five  hundred  dollars.  Ills  wme,  which 
I  hav(^  tasted,  is  a  little  sour  vet,  but,  without  any  doubt, 


wi 


he  in  a  few  years  as  good  as  any  in  Ohio, 
e  reach  C!lyde.     It  is  a  hamlet  which  is 


We  reach  C!lvde.  It  is  a  hamlet  wliieli  is  comi-osed  ot 
warclK.uses  for  the  railroad,  of  a  hotel, and  of  twenty  dwell- 
in-diouses.     The  parlour  of  the  hotel  is  ver)-  eumtortable. 

27* 


31H 


yOTKS  or  A  I'lAMST. 


\\\'  tiiid  ill  it  a  luui.lsoiiu-  stovf,  ii  w.fa,  tnlt.os,  aiul  a  pcr- 

tn.it  of  ({rant.     (Jnuit,  1  l.clicvi-,  was  born  at  >an<lusky, 

aii.l  viry  naturalb'  i'^  tlu-  lai.U'  of  tlio  State. 

Aftor  l.ivakfast  wo  assoinl.K'.l   in  tlio  lower  hall  o    tl.o 

tavern  around  an   inniu-iiHo  nist-iron  Htovo  w  iwl.  ivMe'iis 

an.l  sin.i^^s  j;aily  to  tlu'  flaim-  of  tlie  trcr  trunks  whuli  aiv 

thrown' into  it  ovcry  (luartcr  ot  an  hour. 

r  have  boon  talkinic  to  an  old   man  who   has   tlio  ap- 
,„,,raiu'e  of  a   poor   farnior.       Wo   aiv    (alkm.ii— I'-^tn  . 

'rho  United  States  i.ivsonts  to  strangers  this  ivn.arkal.li 
c.(m.riti<.n  of  thu.-s,  that  it  is  inipossihle  tor  them  to  e.m- 
ieeturo  from  ai-pearaiuvs  the  rank  orposition  oi  those  whom 

{he    meet  witll  on  their  travels.     If  they  meet  with  some 
who  sparkle  with  diam..nds  and  blow  their  nose  ^vl    '  <  '^ 
tinkers  they  will  mcvt  a-ain  with  sui-erior  and  eul  nat  .1 
;;;,;ids  e..neeale.l  under  the  fur  skin  f^reateoat  -t      ;-.';;; 
neer  of  the  '  Far  Wost.'     My  i-omimiiion  is  wel    ^<■'/^'^    ' 
the  literature  of  the  l'.ibk..     Ho  loves  ,;<.etry  and  evident  U 
understands  it.     Ho  speaks  to  me  with  ^'"fl"';';!;'      M  \ 
poetrv  of  David.     M  do  Lanau-tmo,  whohas  'j)'^ l^'^  'l^.        ' 
he  whole  foroc  of  his  style  the'  splen.lour  ol   t''^'  '  -      ';' 
would  have  boon  delighted  in  listening  to  iun   i>l.l   ^oin- 

^'"'n;c'weathor  is  superb.  The  da^li.|g  fnm.  ^^^^^^^^ 
under  the  rays  of  a  bright  sun.  The  tram  has  an^ed-- 
wo  et  outtor  Toledo;  I  manage  with  great  trm-l'  ^  -  ^;^ 
a  seat  There  are  more  than  eight  hundred  pa^^ongol^. 
Th  gena'il  aspect  and  physiognomy  of  the  i;';'lf^  -;;;. 
meets  with  in  the^Vest  otter  a  striking  eontrast  to  tho^e  ot 
"lK>  East.  Nearly  everybo.\y  here  lets  his  l-'an.  ^inn  . 
Their  elothes  are  eoarse  without  being  poor.  Iao}- 
thing  annonnees  a  great  contempt  tor  i,,sh ion,  ''"'1  l^  '  - 
(whi'h  is  one  of  the  peculiar  traits  ot  the  \ankee)  ha^  la.t 
much  to  do  with  their  dress. 

Sunday,  Doccmljor  11. 

Arrived  at  Chicago  from  Detroit  after  nineteen  hours  of 
rulr..ad  The  snow  is  so  thick  that  m  many  p  aces  it  i^ 
[Wt^  to  a  height  of  three  or  four  feet,  an.l  has  obstructed 

'^'chieL  is  always  the  eity  of  the  West.    We  are  to  inau- 


/'. 

ill,  tabiOH,  and  a  |i<»r- 

*  born  at  San<lusky, 
Stati. 

lie  lt)\wr  hall  of  tlie 
Htove  wliicli  rcdtU'ns 
\vv  trunks  wliuh  an' 

111". 

im  wlio  lias  till-  ai>- 
iiiv  talkihii— I'tatry  '. 
fcrs  this  ri'niarkahli' 
"il)l('  for  thini  to  (on- 
Dsitionof  thosi'  whom 
they  uurt  with  son»e 

•  thi'ir  noso  with  thoir 
iliorior  ami  cultivatotl 

gmitc'oat  of  tlic  i)i«)- 
nion  is  well  versed  in 
i  jioetr.v  an<l  eYi(U;ntly 
ith  enthusiasm  of  the 
who  has  t\i\aly/e(l  with 
endour  of  the  I'sidms, 
ning  to  my  old   loin- 

zlina;  mow  pcintillatos 
lie  train  has  arrived — 
h  ureat  trouble  to  tintl 
it  hundred  jiassengcrs. 
uy  of  tho  iieoplu  one 
ing  contrast  to  those  of 

lets   hi»   beard   u;row. 

being  poor,  l.very- 
)r  fashion,  and  neatness 
of  the  Yankee)  has  not 

Sunaay,  Docmlior  11. 
after  nineteen  hours  of 
lat  in  many  plaees  it  is 
feet,  and  has  oljstrueted 

West.    AVe  are  to  inau- 


i!irm:sr  i:\it.\n:ii  /.v  //,/,/.vo/v. 


aio 


u-iiratoAfoore  i^  Smith's  lU'W  hall.     'I'he  tickets  are  all  sold 
ill  iidvance.      Kxeelleiit  hoti-l,  '  'rreniout  IIoumi'.' 

Mcmiliiy,  I>i'i'i'iiili('r  I'i. 

Concert,  hall  criininied  l>iit  the  ainlience  cold.  I  have 
iiotiii'(l  that  an  audience  which  iiiaugnrati's  a  hall  is  ireiie- 
vally  cold.  'I'hus  also  1  have  ne\  er  Irmid  any  enthusiasm 
where  there  was  in  advance  'high  e.\|)ectution.*.' 

Tiii'S(l;.y,  DiTi'iiiticr  If.. 

Second  coi\cert.  Audience  v«'ry  large  and  very  lirilliaiit. 
A  irrcat  ileal  of  enthusiasm.  I  saw  there  the  richest  farmer 
in  Tlliiiois.  lie  owns  seventy-three  thousand  acres  of  arable 
U-i'oimd;  in  one  of  his  farms  alo'ic  there  are  twenty-one 
thousand  acres.  He  sold  lat"lv  in  one  lot  twenty  thou- 
sand Ilea  I  of  cattle.  'I'hcy  talk  of  making  a  gigaiit  ic  canal 
from  th(.  .Vtlantic  »'oast,  connecting  the  great  central  lakes, 
and  ending  at  Chicago,  whi<h  will  thus  enable  Kuroiiean 
vi'ssels  to'land  direi'tly  at  Chica<ro,  elc\cn  hundred  miles 
in  the  inti'rior  of  the  country.  Fifteen  Inmdrt'd  hoiisi's  are 
at  this  moment  being  built.  The  new  Academy  of  Music, 
Avhich  a  very  young  mail  by  the  name  of  Crosliy  is  building 
athis  own  exiionsei^his  colossal  fortuin'of  two  million  dollars 
having  been  made  in  two  years  from  speculations  in  whis- 
kev),  will  be  inaiiirin-atod  on  tlu-  seventeenth  of  next  May 
by  the  Italhin  Opera  Company  which  is  at  this  moment  in 
isW  Yock.  Tlie  new  hall  "will  hold  comfortably  three 
thousand  j'ersous,  and  rivals  in  richness  of  ornamentation 
that  of  ^ew  York.  The  hihabitants  of  Chicago  piH'tend 
that  they  will  establish  a  permanent  Italian  Opera  Coiu- 
panv  in  tlu!  West.     Notice  to  artists  without  eiigagt'ineiits  1 

Nothiiur  can  give  you  an^' idea  of  the  feverish  enteri»rise 
which  exists  here  ;  everythmg  is  done  in  graml  style.  The 
stores  are  palaces,  the  hotels  towns. 

A  newspaper  attacks  me  heeause  1  play  exclusively  on 
Chiekering's  pianos,  and  thinks  it  shocking  that  1  place  the 
maker's  name  on  a  plate  that  diroi  ites  the  side  exposed  to 
]tublic  view,  lie  adds  facetiously  that  it  is  asserted  thai 
I  intend  to  wear,  suspended  to  my  neck,  a  j.hu'ard,  n|ion 
which  will  be  iuseribed  the  name  of  my  liivoarite  maker. 


^•20 


jfOTi'.s  "/•'  -t  ri.wi^T. 


^■"SliaVw^Kiso   tcnc  is   roln.Ht,  .trong,  horoi.-,  nHj^l.tly 

I  it      rirvol's   Wss  s..n..n.us  hut  i-octK^al  im.l,so  t..  .i^Mk, 
.;";i.lirn.l    tVunnuu.,   .nnvsi..>nds    to    the    oU^  ac 

II  K    a  .1  'Trail  o.-ani/ation  of  fhoi-m.     '11umv_  a.v  Y.> 
•uv   ".vlU.nt,uakc.vsiuAna.ru.a,aManiv..lMM^^ 

r)  U-1  •  n;^-r  .t  iH-nsc  all  <^lK.,-s  a.v  ba.l,  but  .....0  I 
i  'i    To.  o,  ii.H.  an.l  <U-licato,  ton.lor  and  poftu-    .crausc  I 

'  in,  in  th.  n>o.liti.atipn.  of  their  .^mU.nsuu.rc 

V  ricl  than  those  of  othc-r  in-tmmonts.  Iho  nouud  s  lu 
fh  .  cxc  -u  ion  of  tlK-  pianist  what  c-olours  arc  in  pamtu.-. 
A  V  ot  'c  lino  i.i.turos  arln.irably  di-awnwlucU  nove.- 

tlH  Ic  a  .Ka.  oil  to  us.  Thoy  are  wantn,^^  m  colour. 
M  u  V  ,.i'  i<  ,  wlH.se  tlumdering  exe<.ntion  ast.nushes  us, 
^:;:Vt;;:C  .h>  not  move  ««;  thoy  are  i,,.^au  ot  sound- 
Drnvin.--  and  eNe.-ution  uro  ac(iuired  hy  lahoui.  «- o  <  u 
alld  sll.nui  are  horn  in  us,  and  are  the  outward  expressions 
of  our  sensibility  and  of  our  soul. 

Sandi'sky. 

Excellent  little  hotel.     The  hill  of  fore  i.  les^  andutiojis 
than  that  of  Cleveland,  but  more  real,  and  we  dmc^el> 


CIIMtACTI  It  nr  r/.wos. 


m 


jir  ti)  1)«'  iiii /<iit  ill 
liut  in»  piiiii",  li*'''^' 
'in  willicut  liuvinii 

also  ^lnmlll  kiitiw 
^  that  lu'  liiis  jiivfM 

but   iii'tm    Kranrrt 

lis  tiii<j;*'i'i^  "l"'"  "'.0' 
,  ill  Kraiins  inSwit- 
inv,  ill  TurUry,  luw 
(iV  all  otlicrjiiaiioj*. 
list  cdilof  llmiks  it 
1  the  maker  ami  tlio 
1  iiidiico  an  artist  to 

III  instriinu'iit  wliieli 
lu-  natuiv  of  the  »lit- 
iihove  sp(»ke'ii  is  iK't- 

piaiKM  wliicU   tliov 

nntr,  lu'i-oic,  Hliii'litly 
.V  iiowiTt'ul  action  of 

ical  ami,  so  to  siicak, 
ndri  to  the  fli'giac 
,iii.  There  are  very 
1(1  niv  oiiinioii  in  that 

of   "Kuroia'.     1    I'lay 

IV  l)a<l,  but  because  I 
rand  jKH'tic,  because  I 
lioir  sound,  tints  more 
Mits.     The  sound  is  in 
•louvrt  are  in  jiainting. 
y  drawn  which  never- 
i-e  wantinir;  in  colour, 
cecution  astonishes  us, 
ire  iiiiiorant  of  sound. 
hI  by  labour.     Colour 
le  outward  expressions 

Sandi'skv. 
(f  fare  ia  less  ambitious 
real,  and  we  dine  very 


roiiifortahly.  The  name  of  the  ti^h  attracts  the  attention 
of  Moielli,  who,  iMioily  imdeivlandiiii:'  MiiuTish,  isa^toni^hc(l 
at  the  length  of  the  name  on  the  bill  of  fare,  lie  passert 
it  III  us  and  we  sn-  on  it,  "  Ki^ll  could  iml  he  hail  in  llie 
market  to-day."  Xeverlheless  Monlli  asks  tor  it  many 
timert  wilhoiit  obtainin*;  it,  and  coiuplains  that  they  place 
on  the  bill  of  fare  wliat  tiiey  cannot  jiive.  "Why  do 
they  amiouiici'  this  (ish  whose  nami>  is  so  lonix'.'" 

At  hetroil— popidation,  French  Canadian.  The  accent 
of  these  I'as  Bretons  of  America  is  friu'lilful.  1  met  hi'it' 
a  Frenchman  who,  after  haviiit;'  for  a  loiiw'  lime  sustaiiietl 
a  lawsuit  against  the  («o\ernmeiit  of  the  Inited  tStatt'S 
eoncerniiii;  a  j^raiit  of  land  made  by  I.ouis  ^k\'.  to  one  of 
his  ancestors,  has  Just  obtained  a  juduincnt  which  liivt's 
to  him,  besides  the  land  in  (lUestion,  tlainages  to  the 
amount  of  fil'tei'ii  thousaml  dollars. 

The  Canadian  shore  lies  opposite  to  Detroit  from  which 
it  is  only  separated  b;,  the  river.  It  is  a  daniicrous 
iieiirhbourhooil  and  obli  cs  the  citi/eiis  to  keep  U[t  run- 
staiit  patrols,  the  rebels  infestinff  the  Caiiadian  frontiers,  and 
thrcati'niiii!;  Ibr  many  weeks  to  make  a  di'scint  here  in 
order  to  burn  llie  town. 

Wednesday,  Derombcr  13. 

Un  7'oiitr  for  Peoria  from  Chica<:o.  In  the  second  class 
ear  where  I  have  gone  to  smoke,  I  have  conversed  with  a 
Frenchman  who,  with  his  moiiki-y,  is  retiirninu-  from 
Orcii'on  and  Idaho.  The  first  is  a  handsome  jovial  leliow 
with  black  beard  and  resolute  mien,  lie  was  for  ten 
years  in  Illinois,  where  he  emjiloyed  himsi'lf  in  improvin^ii; 
liis  farm.  Oregon  and  I<laho  with  tbi'ir  inexhaustible 
golden  riches  tempted  him.  lie  wi'iit  there  four  years 
ago.  He  related  to  me  his  adventures  among  the  mines; 
tliey  are  very  eurious. 

Idaho  is  a  vast  gold-mine  ;  the  precious  metal  is  as  jilenty 
as  pebble  stones,  but  f/icrc  is  no  inifcr,  and  nearly  all  the 
adventurers  who  were  able  to  get  there  are  dea<l.  My 
Frenchman,  who  had  for  many  months  held  on  with  four 
other  companions,  abandoned  the  territory.  They  had 
three  wagons  and  for  three  months  travelled  through  the 
desert  lighting  every  night  with  the  Indians  who  harassed 


yOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 

clkHl  from  thirst  or  '-^^  \^  *^:^:^  .^^.'N./hhul  their  wa,un.ns, 
ni.ht  they  iptronehe  ^^^^^^^  triat.glo,  and  trom  he- 
wim-h  they  '\'-'''^".-'^;^,;V  /'  1 ," e  ux-turnal  attacks.    Arnve  I 

Inn.l  xvhieh  they  '•^l'^'^;;^  Xm^emhavked  on  hoard  a  vesse  , 
ixtSanlA-aiH.is(-(.inylMe        nane  ^^^^  ^^.^^^^^.^  ,,. 

i^;.^-X;j::tKn  they  .t;vu^^  ,,,,       a 

11,0  i-oor  little  inor.key  ^  R  ^J  -^  -^  ^„to  his 
..nils  i.lly  in  a  ---,,i^;  \n;ntlanns.  nuulhis 
a  nis,  and  the  poor  ^^tlo    Jin  ,^.^^^  ^^^^^^^  ,,  ,, 

i.oek  and  like  a  siek  j-1    d  ^J  «'^^^, ,  ^  ^,  ,^   ,„any  negroc^ 
very   l-retty   little   anu.al,    t.s   ir^>  Us  intelligence  mueh 

^^^-^'^^^;nS"'n;i;;^U-^^^^^^        taH^^^^at  1  an. 

surpasses  tuat  oi  j 

acciuainted  ^vith.  ^^^^^^^^^^^  ^^^^^^^^^^^^  ^^_ 

T>      •  ^    very  u""lv  ]»laee. 

Coneert  this  ^^vening  at  Pooria  -^^  4,t 'v.i.e-story. 
The  houses  are  mean  and  lo^^\^,^^^  ,^,,tcrt  hall  oilers 
The  streets  are  ^\''^^\^>,  j  ;/";i,K.h  is  like  a  theatre,  is  bo 
one  peculiarity;-,  the  1'  '^^"^  ^^  '^  ^^  look  down  upon  the 
lu.di  that  it  gives  me  the  \u  V  >  ^^^^  ^^,^  ,i,o,ji,i 

Ifdience;  wc  all  ^•^'^^^^^Pl  ^X^,,  ^.'nmeh  that  it  gives 
be  drawn  into  tin  al>>>^.  J  ' ^^1^^.  ^^^  ^lexperieneed  person 
one  a  sensation  an.  logons  to  ii 
upon  a  roof.  ,   onthusiastic.     Hotel  passahle. 

^  An.lienc-e  nunK-rous  ^  ;\?      "'Vbo  river  is  frozen  and 
Snow  has  ^^vdon  dnruig  n^in^  ;     ,^^^^  ^.,,,      ,tty  w^mem 

is  covered  with  ^^"'I'V^'^,^;^  .•  J];ble  I  foru'ot  t<.  say  hat  at 
Their  costumes  are  n"lesba>J'^-^^^'fo,f ,.,,,,, , 
the  hotel  the  waiters  are  g  -  ^^^  ^^^^  emigration  to  the 
I  have  read  ma  "J  \^r;  \^;j.a  that  two  hun<  red  and 
AVest  is  so  great  tl.at  it  is  ^-  !f  ^^^^-.^  the  last  six  yeai-s 
^LT^t^^t>^^-    and   the   Tacihc   coast. 


nunsETT  norsE,  cl\(  lyyAii. 


r  two  voars,  an(l  our 
n«;  Avhiskcy.    Tl.cV 
„H.s  or  c-urca:^sort  ot 
hoinsL'lvof^,  who  luid 
,v  the  Iiiihauri.     At 
."himl   their  wai2;ons, 
riaim-lo,  and  from  ho- 
,uvl  attacks.    Arnvod 
kod  onboard  a  vessel, 
idred  miners  rcturn- 
lUisions  and  perliaps 

for  it.  111 

.rill"-  with  cold  and 
lus  "taken  it  into  \m 
It  its  arms  II  mmWm 
2  The  monkey  is  a 
r  thaii  many  negrow 
itri  intelligence  nuich 
thont  tails' that  1  am 

TliurscUy,  December  14. 

^\    very  ugly  idacc. 

most  part  one-story. 
rhe  concert  hall  otters 
1  is  like  a  theatre,  IS  so 

to  look  down  upon  the 
lie  edge  lest  we  should 
(  so  niuch  that  it  gives 
an  inexperienced  person 

Elastic.     Hotel  passable 
The  river  is  frozen  and 
;,  l>ut  few  pretty  women. 
I  forgot  to  say  that  at 
[^sieged  fortresses', 
nt  t1ie  emigration  to  the 
.,1  that  two  hundred  and 
ithin  the  last   six  yeai-s 
and   the   Tacihc   coast. 


Xevertheless  this  region  is  so  vast  that  this  access  of  popu- 
lation lias  not  even  been  felt. 

The  greater  part  of  these  emigrants  have  establisbi'd 
themserves  in  the  auriferous  territciries  of  Colorado,  Neva(la, 
rtali,  Idaho,  and  .\h)ntaMa.  Uri'gon,  Washington,  New 
Mexico,  and  Arizona  have  coni]>anitively  few  emigrants, 
and  Nebraska,  Kansas,  and  Dakota  have  i>robably  lost  the 
few  which  tliey  had,  gold  liavuig  more  attraction  than  the 
richness  of  the  soil. 

December  20. 

At  Cincinnati.  The  'Thmiett  House'  is  an  imnu'nse  cara- 
vansarv,  very  dirty  and  very  dear,  where  "  h;.^  yon  eat  is 
in  the  Inverse  ratio  of  what  you  pay,  that  is  to  say,  is  very 
little.  It  is  at  the  eating  hours  at  the  JJurnett  House  that 
one  can  best  form  an  idea  of  the  i>hysiognomy  of  the 
Western  people.  AVliat  is  most  striking  is  thefree  and 
easy  behaviour  of  the  men  and  women.  The  first  wear 
flat  felt  bats,  covering  badly  cultivated  heads.  Their 
lauu-hter  particularly  has  something  wild  in  it;  it  is  a 
shrill  sound,  which  recalls  the  neighing  of  u  horse  ratlier 
than  the  jocosity  of  a  polished  man. 


CIIArTER  XX. 


I  WAS  jilaying  at  the  concert  the  Kreutzer  sonata  of 
Beethoven.  The  audience  had  greatly  the  appearance  of 
'coiiig  to  sleep.  The  next  morning  a  newspaper  says: 
''We  could  ourselves  have  done  very  well  without  the 
long  piece  for  the  piano  and. viol'  \''  It  was  notwith- 
standing the  same  \  per  that  last  ^,car  was  complauung 
that  we  did  not  give  classical  music. 

I'lay  at  Mozart  Hall.  It  is  a  very  large  theatre;  re- 
markiihle  for  your  being  obliged  to  go  up  three  stories  to 
"•et  to  it.  While  I  was  playing  1  recalled  to  !uind  tlie 
experience  of  the  Swedish  doctor^  I  think  it  was,  Avho  pre- 


'*  *■ 


g.^_^  XOTES  OF  A  PlAXIsr. 

iVo/x'  like  a  sorLct  un(    ^vla;•l>  1'^        '^      ^    ^.,^,,.      i  i^^eame      ' 
house  ../  Ao.  to  mal<o  It  rovjvo^o  ne  >   '  -  '       \,^,.,,i,  ,Veoly 
fri.^htonea  on  foelmK  tl.o  ^^  »    ''^.^'^^    ^  ..'^.J  .f  M<./art  Hall, 

,vln.-h  f =;;^:;f  ^,f  f  iJi^pasB  into  the  condition  o^  a 

ahvays'suspected  of  being  an  lee  depot. 

St.  Lons. 

,  T^         1       oo  offor  twcntv-tAvo  hours'  journey. 
Arrivcd,Poooml)cr  22  a         t^^c.^t^^  ^^^  ^^.^  ^.^^ 

I  do  not  r^^"!^'"^^'^'l'  ^''^1  '1,'r.n  hours' d-'tontion.     At 
with<Mit  meeting;  ^vItll  oiud  t  to  Un     on  ^.^^^^,  ^^^^^^.^^ 

Kielnnon.1,  a  vdlage  m    'f  J  'V^^^^ Jj ^^  ^.ot  off  the  rails, 
as  the  road  was  l'^*'^"^^^'^'/.,  ^J" L^^i'     ;7,A-ows  j^ot  on  the 

and  rash  ^i^^e'TV^"^^- ,  ,  ^.i.  „,,  ^i.e  hanks  of  the  Mississippi 
Arrived  at  six  <\^^«^^."^"  '  f  ^  j,  ^.tense.  The  station, 
opposite  to  St.  Loms.  .^^^^^  ;'^^  .;,^.  X-re  the  hoat  lan.ls, 
iAitead  of  heing  oy-posite  t  <^^^  '^'J^  ^  ^,,  ,,,ik  on  foot  in 
is  a  quarter  of  a  nide  ott,  ^^l^i^^;  '^^  Arrived  at  the  steani- 

boat,  whose  saloon(?)  ^^ '^  ;;;\Sron  packed  together, 
men,  dirty  women,  and  '^^/-^^^''^^.^J^^  ^.^r^elvcs  into  the 
C^ro^ded.  sutt^H-ated,  we  ^-^^^^^  ^^,,„  ,o  charged 
nndst  of  this  crow.l,  ^>"y^^,^;  "^,,     ^  i,)to  so  small  a  space 

with  the  <^-^ffl?r^7^^t:^^  to  that  of  heing 
that  we  preter  the  n^lv  oi  ' »c  ' ^        .  p^,,^  j,,  ^ppc'ar- 

poisone(h    ft.Loui8aBas.vd-    okm^^  .^^^ 

Lee,  the  shops  are  ^^.^'^/^  '\i  ^^.^^^.t  cpiarters  of  the 


LiyUEL'..  HOUSE,  ST.  LOUIS. 


325 


cj  tlio  tcmptn-aturc 
us  »ul)ioct  uiitil  it 
reserved  in  an  iee- 
•s  al'tiT.     1  became 
•y  ail-  whieh  freely 
leof  Mozart  Hall, 
11  of  my  1>1o(m1;  I 
the  eoiulitioii  of  a 
iiliu-es  in  wliieli  I 
t    lilane'   and    the 
,it,   wliieli   I  liave 

St.  Loi-is. 
-tAvo  hours'  journey. 
,-ellod   on  tliis  road 
Tars'  di'tention.     At 
lited  foi'  four  hours, 
iig  got  ott"  the  rails. 
i(H)r  eows  got  on  the 
lee  with  tlieir  lives, 
,• ;  hut  for  those  Avho 
dition  of  the  road,  it 
ivel  here  is  a  perilous 

ks  of  the  Mississippi 
iiitei\se.     The  station, 
where  the  boat  lands, 
must  walk  on  foot  in 
Arrived  at  the  steam- 
1  with  soldiers,  work- 
ren   paeked   together, 
iroe  ourselves  into  the 
lere  is  soon  so  charged 
.<l  into  so  small  a  space 
ozen  to  that  of  being 
citv.     Poor  in  appear- 
street  richest  in  large 
oorest  quarters  of  the 
he  curbs  of  the  pave- 


ments arc  broken,  and  wo  recognize"  the  same  holes  which 
wo  had  seen  la>t  winter.  .  ,    ■       ,, 

The  '  LiiKlell   House'  is  itrobably,  as  to  its  exterior,  1  he 
m.wt  beautiful  building  of  the  kind  to  be  found  ni  Anieric:i. 
rnluckily,  it  recalls  to  me  a  .vrtaiua.lage  which  I  <  •'"not 
i.xi.ress  better  than  bv  saying,  that  T  should  bke  it  better 
if  there  were   fewer  columns   in   the   corridors  and  more 
chambers,  less  ruse-work  ou  the  ceiling,  UK.re  tender  l-ect- 
steaks,  and  the   corri<lors  kept   heated  at   a   temperature 
which  did  not  recall  the  horrors  of  Captain  1  rankliu  an. 
his  heroic  compauions.     At  breakfast,  it  is  our  hrst  meal 
(for  the  last  two  days  we  have  lived  on  cold  pies  and  ajip  es), 
we  literallv  froze.     The  walls  and  ceiling  are  painted  m 
fresco,  but\he  furnaces  throw  out  no  heat. 

The  servant  A\  aits  upon  us  with  a  listless  nonchalance, 
hut  he  also  briuii-s  us  the  plates  only  ten  minutes  atti'rwards. 
In  summer  ici'(l  cotfee  and  frozen  beefsteaks  are  perliaps 
acceptable— but  ui  winter! 

The  result  is,  that  Morrelli  and  T  commenced  a  sea  re  li 
through  the  streets  for  a  restaurant.  We  discover  a  Y  reneli- 
man,formerlvfrom  Xew  Orleans,  who  gives  us  a  genuine 
/>rr/steak,  aiul  not  a  rv,//-steak,  and  relates  to  us  all  Ins  mis- 
haps whilst  waiting  on  us. 

There  is  a  class  of  persons  who  wish  to  learn  what  was 
the  artist's  intention.     The  artist  is  an  instrunient  through 
which  God  inspires  good  things  to  men._    He  is  passive. 
You  mi.^ht  as  well  ask  of  the  sun  his  intention  m  producing 
the  marvellous  effects  of  light  and  slia.le  m  a  Ian.  scai.e. 
The  inspired  artist  is  like  a  key-b..ard  which  sounds  cor- 
rectlv  under  the  tremor  whi.-h  agitates  it      \\  e,  all  ot  us, 
have  in  us  a  tinger-board,  but  some  have  Im.ken  the  .-..rds 
of  their  soul  in  such  a  way  that  the  tmger-  .oar.1  no  l..nger 
produces  a  soun.l.     Others  soun.l  false,  although  leeling 
ivervthing  deeply.     These  are  generally  those  artists  who 
having  a^livelv  eoneepti.m  of  the  beautitul,an<l  a  thirst 
to  express  it,  are  not  endowed  with  the  taculty  of  torniu- 
lating  what  thev  fcol.     Sonu^times  by  <_lint  of  slow  ana 
patimt  researche;,  assiste.l  by  their  insatiable  desire  to  ex- 
press what  they  experience,  they  attain  to  creating  some- 
thin.r  which  approaches  to  genius,  but  the  effort  an.l  the 
"^    28 


r 


320 


yOTES  OF  A  PiAsrsT. 


lal>o,u-  arc  arraront,  two  .l.a.-kUs  ^^ln       g 

k»OW.  Spbinofiem.,  Illinois,  Dooenan-r  20,  l?*i4. 

;...,      Mollis  turn',  tlic  andii'iico  listoiis  to 
Concert  tins  ovonin.;:.      '  '  f  .J  ;;.^^,,,   cornpU'toly  maskcnl 
us.     Last  time  lunate  ^<'"\^''^*^!^  ^J,^  ^o  enjoy  what  we 
the  n.usic.    The  an;lu.m-e  -;'  f  ^  "/^.ion  wVu-h,  after 

.ive  them,  hut  it  is  to.,  late       u        1  disa-reeahle. 

^,,  ,,sUs^  ^V"^M  >  exe^  11  S 't -nnot^wann  up,  and 
T  have  tried  hard  ^'^  ^^^'M">  .'"..,•  k.^  the  hall  is  hom- 
i  play  like  a  ^vann-w.d..r  spigo  •    B^  d.     U  ^^.^^^^  ^^^. 

hll- ;  a,  little,  narrow, drt>    .  '     ' ;     .  ,\  airtv  ohjeets.     It  is 
.ar.1  six  ieot  -l-'-r.^^^;;  .^^  1  '  ,i;   Uorl^aring.   Youp 
the  artists'  room.    1 1'^^"^;\" '•  r  ,,  ,  V,ke  a  ladder.     l>>hler 
on  to  the  stage  hy  stairs  ^   ^  '  '  ;..JX  Venise,' two  pieees 
plays  '  Yankee^]).,odle  "^l^^^V"   J  en     usiasn.  of  the  audi- 
'vhieh  never    ad  m  ^'^^'  \"  S    /''.  \L,  i,,i,ur  out  a  severe 
enc-e,  hut  Avh ieh  "'vanahb    ^^^^^^^  ^;,  ^^^Vv  we  know  what 
lecture  from  the  'if -1"^; '  ,^- ^  .;ve       pearanees  that  these 
to  think  of  .t        t  ^^L-^^^^^^i,  t  Jvial  nmsie  soeretly, 
trontlemen  protest.     .^''^^^  '";.^„',,i„^,,  of  their  inferiority, 

REIIMON  AT  ST.  LOUIS. 

The    proachor  was  -hh^ly  Jntont  -  ^^^^J^ 

greatest  uumher  ot  words  ^^it'\^;f^"'^;;n(led  to  di.til  the 
lev  of  hleas-like  1  almoman  ,XNho  ]-^^^^  .,^^,  j^^^c 

ten-thousandth  part  ot   f,  S/ 1  "^^f  ^^  ^^^  ratio  of  \t^v,pi- 

-.cman,  and  to  increase  its  P    Jf  J  "^  ^*  f        ^  fo,  ^,,-0  houi-s 

.nn.mj.    This  good  r-;^-- -  i;:^Sne  or  two  ounces 


IsnmMitl,.    Thisgoo,l  r^"^X;S^o;^  or  two  ounces 
in(lr.>vvnuiginanoceanot  (nn  typ^^^^^^^^  ^^  .^  ^^^. 

of  stale  ideas.     ^^T^^V/';,  P^^J  ^^^^^  n'earisome--that  the 

comes  a  trade,  hu.  m  it  *  ^^^  1  if  ^   ^  ^'u  .uhjects  a  coUec- 

preacher  is  ^7"^\?"i^;  ,  ,"i  f^vX  n"-lt'  is  soon  as  he 

ion  of  formulae  ot  ^^l>l^'    *;^  ^^£^^  j^-,  thoughts  hi  order 


MILK  AM)   U'ATlill. 


327 


I  genius  does  not 

Dccenibcr  20,  l?fi4. 
audii'MCf  listons  to 
mnpU'toly  inaskotl 
L  to  onjoy  whiit  wo 
^ssiou  wliii'li,  attor 
I  very  disagreeable. 
lUiot  warm  \\\\  und 
L-s,  the  hall  is  horn- 
s  to  a  kind  of  Man- 
;lirtv  ol)'|oets.     It  is 
i)r  hearing.   Yon  go 
li  a  ladder.     Dohler 
.  Venise,'  t\YO  pieeerf 
nsiasn\  of  the  andi- 
bring  out  a  severe 
tc'ly  we  know  what 
pearances  that  thi'se 
ivial  music  secretly, 
of  their  inferiority, 
ting  to  despise  what 
anity  \ 


nt  on  emitting   the 
nallest  possible  tunn- 
retended  to  distil  the 
telladonna  into  Lake 
the  ratio  of  its  vifin- 
LMigaged  for  two  houi-s 
isc*,  one  or  two  ounces 
on,  as  soon  as  it  be- 
wearisome— that  the 
.n  all  subjects  a  eoUcc- 
himself  as  soon  as  he 
his  thoniihts  in  order 
repeats  these  fornndnj 
nied  elsewhere.    When 
;  phrase,  and  begins  to 


lose  sight  of  port,  an<l  knows  no  l(.ngi>r  where  to  land,  he 
casts  anchor  on  aniplitications  and  synonyms;  tins  keeps 
him  in  his  position,  and  gives  liim  time  to  get  back  again. 
Tliis  proceeding  is  like  that  of  the  milkmen  of  Lontlon, 
Paris,  and  of  every  other  place  in  the  \vorl<l  where  there 
are  nnlkmen  and  water,  who,  out  of  one  vessel  of  milk 
make  ten  or  twelve  bv  adding  water  to  it. 

"  Ves,  my  dear  bro"ther  {it  is  the  preacher  who  siteaks), 
man  is  weaker  than  vou  can  i)ossibly  conceive  ;  more  feeble 
than  all  (a  little  water),  weaker  than  all  otlu'r  fi'cble  crea- 
tnres  (a  little  more  water),  weak  because  he  cannot  resist 
ti'inptations  (a  good  i.int  of  water),  and  weak  because  he 
vields  instead  of  con<inering  (hem!  the  vessel  oi  milk  is 
full)."  lie  stojis  here  to  put  the  full  vessel  to  (»ne  side,  and 
to  begin  at  another,  and  so  on,  to  the  end  of  the  sermon. 

Bi.ooMiNciroN  (Illinois). 

I  am  warming  mvself  in  the  concert  hall  before  we  be- 
gin. Hidden  in  the  midst  of  the  crowd  I  look  like  an 
amatenr  who  has  come  to  lu'ar.  A  little  fellow  who  sells 
photoirraphs  of  C'arlotta  I'atti  and  myself  m  the  ha  1  otiers 
me  oiie,  sayiuii,  "J^<>  y«)u  want  the  ix.rtrait  ot  Chuckle  and 
his  wife r'  Who  is  Chuckle?  I  asked  him.  ;^,;i";'-  '"; 
is  the  man  who  plavs  the  piano."  W  here  is  he/  1  luit 
is  he  who  passed  mJ,"  said  the  little  monster,  pointing  out 
to  me  a  tat  man  who  came  into  the  hall. 

Good  audience — nuich  applauded. 

AVe  set  out  again  after  the  concert,  the  cold  being  intense. 
Passed  six  hours  in  suffering,  like  Tantalus,  tailing  asleep 
and  not  being  able  to  sleep  for  want  of  room  to  rest.  \V  e 
ou"ht  to  be  four  liours  in  ij;oing,  but  as  it  appears  impossi- 
bk^tbr  any  train  in  the  whole  West  to  arrive  at  the  pro- 
T.er  time,  we  are  six  hours  on  the  road.  On  our  arrival  we 
took  an  omnibus,  and,  after  a  (piarter  of  an  hour  s.)o!ting,  we 
<>-ot  to  a  little  tavern,  benumbed  with  cold  and  with  broken- 
backs.  Our  companions  in  misfortune  are  two  j.oor  nuns, 
who,  motionless  and  silent,  draped  in  then-  large  l)lack 
veils,  look  like  two  lugubrious  statues  ot  penitence  and 
resi<rnation.  Alouixside  of  them  are  two  i-retty  girls  wlio 
Uundi,  and  whoso  thoughtlessness  prevents  us  troni  mur- 


3-28 


NOTES  OF  A  riAMST. 


P 


;  'tw  Yo^'   N  m     vim  nn,l.t  sco  :ue  at  this  mouKut,  an<l 
1   .^v  u     von  voun-^  l.aro-liniins,  who  only  i-.m^ivc  in  an 
;;l;2;:;i;-a ^;::^^uhnn.U..va  with  r<>sos and  iu.oa^ 

ch.lHiN  moditateon  this  episode  and    .     .     •     •     •  ^t  ilu 
fin,.     ■<m.tAVo..,.tr.,tf«llm«l.ai..l...    An  iiLiiiny  w..s  "."U, 

w  .'t  • "  toii...v.,i  i.y  a  ,„«.,i„g  of  b,si,.n.»  ■"';  1 1;;^;^; ; 

l..>r  of  his  foniiMine  c-oixiUfsts  was  so  great  tluit  1  alt  tiic 
XulatAon  of  .Joliot  wou/d  have  had  the  right  to  give  hna 

"  ^rl.^'et'^llorious  tour 'of  concerts  in  the  West  is  for 
.n  I  t  s     o  4in  his  chevrons.     Bad  hotels,  snow  nmd,  rail- 

"LS^tlSd^its, delays, settin.  out  at  f  j-^;;;: ;; ^.^i^^ 

r^u^vn•uu<^  ctc     It  re.iu  rcs  an  iron  constitution  ad  a  tinu} 
w      to  si'.cce  >d  at  it.     I  am  tempted  to  have  insc-nl.ed  at  he 
Kul  ot    iiy      o.n-amines-''  G.  has  nuuk-  theto.ir  ot  the 
^U\^L^:'  as  the  French  legions  mscnhe  "  Arcole, 

'  r  univil  of  Venice,'  a  man  in  the  audience  (without  douht 
tothrtluvt  he  kn.ows  the  tune)  whistles  the  theiue  xn  uiu- 


s/.\air..\n  fpisodf.. 


329 


.l)v.     After  liavinj; 
luiiiUord  annouiK'cM 

(ie'iu'nil  coiistt.'nni- 
uxuIhtiiikt  uf  tlie 
t,\vlii(li  one  niight 

tilt'  apiitliy  of  tU'- 
br  iin  liour."  Wo 
[.  The  tire  is  tlam- 
i  tlie  lioor  with  our 
lioastetl  <»n  one  side 
a  dran^;ht  of  \vin<l, 
)nt  nnder  the  door, 
linntes,  like  a  hei'i- 
h  !  my  jrood  friends 
at  thisnionunt,  and 

only  j)ereeive  in  an 
rosesiind  paved  with 

At  ten 

)!•  several  hours. 

id   iiourisliiii.L!;  little 

a  great  seandal.  A 
ster,  reeeived  a  cow- 
Ui  incpiiry  was  made, 
bishoiis  and  L*ri>test- 
.ovelaee.  The  result 
ore  not  the  only  ones 
inister,  and  the  lUini- 
1  mreat  that  half  the 
he  right  to  give  him 

rts  in  the  West  is  for 
otels,  snow, mud,  rail- 
D  three  o'eloek  in  the 
istitution  and  a  Hinty 
)have  inserihed  at  the 
uade  the  tour  of  the 
ions  inserihe  "  Arcole, 
■rds. 

list  Dohler  [.lays  the 
dienee  (without  doubt 
istles  the  theiue  in  uni- 


son. After  the  last  |(iece  on  the  progratnine,  a  wouian, 
agitated  and  paliiitaiiiig  with  emotion,  ru.-lird  into  tiie 
arlists'  room,  and  aski'd  to  sir  the  '/'/"/■  who  |ilayed  on  tln!_ 
violin.  We  guessi-d  l»y  her  descriiition  tliat  >he  sjioke  of 
J)ohler.  "■  ITo  has  alreaily  left,'"  some  one  answered. '"ai'd  you 
will  tiiitl  him  at  the  liot'el.  "  I'l^on  this  shr  tfll-  us  with  a 
choking  voice  that  Dohler  is  her  cousin,  that  >he  iH'coguized 
him  as  soon  as  he  aiipeared  on  the  platl'orni,  altliougli  she 
had  not  seen  him  for  ten  years,  that  he  hail  always  hccu  her 
favourite,  that  at  the  age  of  ten  years  he  alri'ady  showed— 
a  singular  ai)titude  in  catching  mice-  that  he  kept  them  in 
a  i-age — all  this  with  tears  of  Joy  interrupted  l)y  the  ex- 
claiiiatiinirt  of  the  crowd  who  listen:  "Is  it  possilde'r" 
"That  'rt  so."  (There  are  always  some  people  n^aily  to  say 
''That's  so,"  without  knowing  why,  or  what  the  matter  is.) 
The  episode  is  interesting  and  breaks  the  [irosaic  monotony 
of  our  daily  life. 

The  most  interesting  and  pleasant  jiart  of  the  thing  is 
that  on  our  return  to  the  hotel,  l)ohU'r  relates  to  us  his 
interview  with  his  cousin,  who  began  by  throwing  herself 
into  his  arms, giving  him  the  most  tender  names;  the  first 
part  of  the  interview  iinished,  the  explanation  began. 

"1  recognized  thee  as  soon  as  thou  didst  appear;  dost  thou 
recollect  diy  mice?  Why  didst  thou  leave  thy  jiaternal 
mansion  to  roam  over  the  world?" — ([  suspect  she  was 
going  to  say  to  play  the  actor  with  a  violin,  but  she 
thought  it  wotdd  be  cruel  on  this  joyful  evening  to  recall 
to  his  feelings  his  presi>nt  degradation.) 

"  JK'ar  Areid)tu'g,"  she  continued,  and  she  ]irepared  her- 
self to  spring  at  his  neck;  when  Dohler,  who  is  full  of 
modesty  (seeing  she  was  ugly  an<l  old),  said  to  her,  "  [  am 
not  called  Areiiburg,  Madam." 

"iro\v,  unhapi)y  one,  hast  thou  changed  thy  name?'' 

"My  name  is  jjohler." 

"Miserable  oncl  art  thou  ashamed  of  thine — thy  name 
is  Arenburg." 

"Madam,  I  assure  you  that  you  arc  mistaken;  I  was 
never  here  before." 

"Intrrate,  dost  thou  not  know  me?  And  the  little  mice?" 

"I  do  not  know,"  replied  Dohler.  "  I  am  a  German, 
and  I  have  never  had  anythin<;  to  do  with  mice." 

28* 


i 


880  yoTKS  OF  A  iJASi'^T' 

.     -ii*    ,  +,x  1..^..  1ii>r  ri<''lit  'il'  relation- 
The  goo,l  woman,  "ot  ^^'l^''^^,        JV;;^        a.wl  i-.aking 

use  i.f  the  last  ai-muont,  '"J*'  .'^  '  ^^  i,-,.,!,  opinion  of 
do  not  tear"  (this  last  ;>^;;;;;^„^  ^,  I!  .^^^MMhl.T,  who 
tho  la.ly'B  l<tK)Nvlo(l,tro  <.t  l''"'*''    '\  '    -^^^^  bait  of  oi.u- 

,„„,,,„.    st,.l.l.cHl  at  »,"''.,  ",|^"1  „|,|„.™.,.c  of  .J 

!:x.if  K^rr'::;^^;.''.!!^  t..o  iv.  ....u-. 

omcrrs  ana  ul\  ^;*''''  ;;\'' ,"' ,^1^  .     who  f.n-  sonu-  tunc 

yonni;   girl.  o^^l';"^^^^^\n'   !        bl^    r^^^^  ^'l'^^-''^^'^ 

have  frocmontoa  the  most  ^«  '^''^''V,' '  l*;,,,^  •„  the  afternoon, 
"nutcno'oloekinthe  "-"-f^^  .^^a  cL  of  ll>-n 
Thev  are  pretty,  and  ^<^^  ^^L  and  a  eloak 
generally  wear,  a  ^^tZtl  1  the  vigilance  of  the 
trnuned  with  lur.     it  w  |  'IV'  jn  jj^t  he  relaxed, 

poliee  and  the  zeal  ^'^ f^'"^^  ,;  ^^  /;  in  be  arreste.l  in 
uid  that  those  two  a<^•«"^"^S;^;'\'L'.^\,,isty -Nlitistrels' 
?he  very  act  of  rovBccution  ag^-^  ^  ^^^  >^^^„„„i  Un. 
ivhom  they  have  ioUoweu  lt)i  a  '""'^  .•  ,  ^\^^.  ^rowd 
:S  an Ahn  at  '^^ZU^^^^^'A^^^ 
to  royant  Hall.       W  liat  uo  jo  a  jj,^.,,i(.an  hire  is  a 

„„„/ 1»  jt  v's-"™  St  o, !;«»;  r,o,«.  mi  a-w,, 

Bcienoc  and  ;ni  art.  }^^^[^'y  '"  y  .  i,^  j^  few  moments. 
i„  l?roadwav,  ^^  ]'''^\J'^  e  .reat  artery  contracts. 
It  was  near  the  City  "^"' ^  ^^  ^.y  ,'nT-nnd.erc.d  c-ircnlation 
and  where  -^nsequenth  ^^^^^l^.^^,^,,,  of  a  (inarter  ot 

bec^^nie.  more  ^^f  Vrt  caritcV off  thi  poor  animal,  who  was 
ar  hour  the  street  carUar.o^^  ^^.^  ^^^,,, 

alreadv  covered  with   placaiils. 

ta„.U,Ul.     Th;,v  are  !;X'';^urS      -    ^'-'•' ''i' 
ftud    stuck  01!    your  back,  joui    n.ii,  j 


^A'.V  ARTlOn,  MICIIIGAS. 


881 


lor  riirlit  <>^  rclation- 
•proiuli,  aii'l  iiiiiking 
Me  OIK',  Avc  aiv  rifli, 

10  u  liiirli  opinion  ot 
•s);  but  DoiiliT,  wlio 
ImI  this  bait  of  oi'ii- 
ho  had  ever  [.Uiy^'d 

lock  ill  tho  morning, 
hiy,  and  to-(hiy  wo 
serioa  of  littU>  ava- 
on  o'floi'k  for  hirak- 
4()le  ai.pi'araniT  of  a 
■  the  eotlee   rendeivil 

U.  "Caution.  roVu'C 
rned  not  to  trurtt  two 
who  ioi-  some  time 
',le  HtreetH  of  Chieago 
fonr  in  the  afternoon, 
vssed.  One  of  them 
ilk  hat  and  a  eloak 
vt  the  viiiihmee  ot  the 
s  will  not  1>e  rehixed, 

11  w>(>n  he  arrested  ui 
the 'Christy  Mhistrels 
long   time  around  the 
e  attracting  the  crowd 
think  of  the  advertise- 
rhe  American  hire  is  a 
anibus  horse  fell  down 
led  in  a  few  moments, 
le  great  artery  eontracts, 
encund)ercd  circulation 
ci.iration  of  a  (inarter  ot 
10  poor  animal,  who  was 

On  his  belly  you  saw 

^  invented  a  miniature 
proirrammes  which  you 
•    liat,  your    gloves,   b\ 


mysterious, indefatigab]e,aiid  unseen  hanils.  Tlie  Dutdi  tonic 

of  Doctor  II is  udvertiscd  in  gigantic  httors  painted  oii 

the  rocks  whicli  overlook  the  falls  of  the  (icncsce  Iviver. 
It  u;ives  one  a  vertigo  to  read  these  i>ig  letters  that  soeiii 
to  look  with  true  Dutch  ynnij  froiil  in(o  the  roaring  gull' 
which  opens  beneath  them.  One  shivers  to  think  of  the 
danger  tiio  person  ran  wlio  painted  this  advertisement. 
It  is  till'  lure  heroic. 

Arrived  at  Ivaianiazoo  at  noon,  Tlnirsday.  Kxcellent 
holi'l,  (piite  new.  Charming  concert  and  icspectable 
audience.  Xo  cries,  or  whistling.  All  the  pieces  are  en- 
cored. The  apjiearance  of  the  audience  otiors  a  singular 
contrast  to  that  of  Joliet. 

Di'ocihIm  ••  :?. 

Quit  Kalama5:oo  for  Ann  Arl)or,  Michigan.  Arrived 
at  five  o'clock.  (Train  behindhand.)  A  tlourishing  little 
village  whicli  particularly  owes  its  importance  to  the  State 
University,  wldch  at  this  time  mimhers  eight  hundred 
and  fifty  students.  They  confer  (h'grees  here  as  high  as 
doctor  of  science,  of  law,  and  of  divinity.  Tlu'  I'liiversity 
Btudios  last  four  years,  and  cost  for  the  whole  fifteen 
(h)llars.  This  sum  is  purely  nonunal,  ai:d  is  only  a  pre- 
text in  order  that  the  students  may  not  appear  to  receive 
State  charity. 

To-day  in  the  cars  a  man  saitl  to  his  neighbour,  who 
asked  liim  if  he  knew  the  famous  singer  (Joodstock, 
"Yes,  very  well,  there  he  is,"  pointing  to  Muzio,  who  was 
sitting  opposite. 

Saturday,  arrived  at  London  (Canada)  after  a  journey 
of  eight  "^hours.  Small  town.  Conci-rt  this  evening. 
Canailiau  receipts!  Thirty-one  jiersons  comi)rising  niy 
servants  and  tuner,  who  from  a^prit  <'r  corps  are  sitting  in 
the  public  seats  in  order  to  increase  the  numlu'r.  It  nmst 
be  acknowledged  that  the  apyilause  was  in  the  inverse 
ratio  of  the  number.  That  is  to  say,  that  the  audience  is 
warm  and  I  really  know  glad  to  have  come,  and  I  ]ilaye<l  my 
best  betore  these\wenty-one  heroes  (I  deduct  what  does  not 
belong  to  the  audience)  to  thank  tlicui  for  their  good-will. 


33-2 


IfOTES  Of  A  I'lASlST. 


Nrw  Yoar,  l^<i''. 


IS   nil 

\vlu'n  in  t!io  comi 


1-,,/h.  North.      "^^^^yJ'.fjZi  L\   useless  bruviM.. 
(,f  (.ur  no\vsi.iii.oi>,  a.ul     '  *-   •  .  numy  years 

Avlii.-h  our  editors  have  i  uule  u.e 


Avhou  speaking  ot  Lngluud 


Ann  Arbor. 
between  the  first  and  Rccoujl 


sine 


^c'lo  return  to  Ne%v  York 


Toronto,  January  3. 
ert  a  teh 


Between  the  first  and  second  part  of  tbo  ->nc-ert_a^ U-Uj- 
...^Ihie  <lospateh  is  sent  «.  wdu<  i  ;-^  ^  '-,  i,,,  i,,., 
run   away   before   three  duNs,  it   }ou 


"I'V^lf.^"'-'         •     „  yveneh  Imirdresser,  . 

This  1"  fi   f^^*^";  ^     ^t.,n\slas  de  Uussie 

Doctor  and  Chevaher  de  ^t-  J'  •  '^^''^^  il ,. 

speeulatedonsharesAv^thashuipcr 


who  eallrf  himself 

lie  has 

Whilst  they  gained, 


DAYToy,  nnio. 


833 


v. 

Now  Yiar,  1^05. 
As  t.   tlK-  car  ilurinti 
lio  t'cho  of  vuiiislua 

IK'  ;yiars  ^^litU'tl  awiiy 

8cl' tho  swcft  imaiii'^ 

imiiK-ncc'il  my  mairh 

•hose  wito  I  Ui'i'W  at 
laniiinu;  rauiily ;   tlio 
I  ami  1  ■n.U-ralUvliou 
iivntrt  ivap  wl.o  liavc 
,„.     1  am  i-artu'iilafly 
'Pho  maiTU'«l  .lauii-httT 
1.     It  is  not  (litl'K'iilt, 
■n,  to  maUTstaiitl  that 
■sH  the  rosnU  of  then- 
h  than  then-  antq-athy 
V  panlou   tl>c  hoastiULj 
\  luul   U80h>ss  hi-availo 
(,f  ibr  rto  many  years 

Ann  Akiiob. 
en  the  first  nnd  second 
r,our  woi-rano,  re(iuest- 
'  from  'Traviata  1 
•wsuaper  hestowejl  i:'-eat 

„ia   his  hcautifnl   style, 
orelli  left  us  two  days 


Toronto,  January  3, 
trt  of  the  concert  a  telo- 

veadsthus:   " ;v'll 

do   not   have   Imu 


vou 


osser,  who  calls  himself 
islas  de  Uussie.  Ho  has 
,er      AVhilst  they  gamed, 


nil  wont  vory  well.  Losse«  came,  and  wlrli  theni  disitulcx. 
The  hhar|icr  claimed  ciirhlci.  i  tlmiisaiid  dollars.  The 
kniirlit  of  the  razor  liail  not  a  red  cent,  'i'luy  were  ahont 
to  iirrcst  iiini.  His  wife  and  cliildreii  came  and  threw 
themselves  at  my  feet,  Iicirt;iii<r  me  to  ijo  hail  for  tiiirty 
'lioMsand  <iollars',  wliich  wonJil  l<ee|»  liiin  out  I'f  |iri>oii 
until  the  affair  was  tried.     I  consiiitcd  to  it. 

I  Icavi' yon  to  judirc  of  the  clfect  this  tcleu^ram  lual  oij 
me.  Tiie\'onecrt  is  interrn|itcd.  1  Icavi-  for  New  York 
hv  the  first  train  to-moi-row  niorninjr.  rnfortnnately,  tlu^ 
Secretary  of  tlie  Interior  decided,  two  days  airo,  that  no 
one  can  i-ntcr  into  the  I'nited  States  across  the  Canada 
fronticv  without  iiassports  eoniitersii;ncd  hy  the  .American 
anthoritit's.  This  mcasuri'  has  lu'en  taken  to  jircveiit  die 
incursion  of  rehel  emisirants  fr(5m  Canada.  I.a*  ''y  twelve 
of  tlu'sc  adventurers  entered  into  the  villau'c  ^A'  St.  Alhans 
on  the  frontier,  and  rohheil  the  hank  of  tiirce  or  four  hun- 
dred thousand  dollars. 

IlAimifiirnd,  .laiinnry  28. 

Small  audience,  consoqnontly  irreat  enthusiasm.  The 
concert  taki-s  place  in  the  C(jurt  House.  'I'lu'  artists'  room 
is  <aM)erally  the  witnesses'  chamher,  hut  the  porter  infornw 
us'that  he  has  not  heeu  ahle  to  light  n  fue  in  it,  ami  he 
has  put  us  in  tliejuroix'  room,  whicli  is  in  the  second  story. 
The  cold  is  intense.  We  have  to  cross  Siherian  passatjes 
and  go  up  a  steep  Ktain-ase  forty  steps  to  get  to  our  den. 
The' concert  hall  is  helow.  At  i}\X'vy  jiicco  1  put  oii  my 
greatcoat,  my  fur  gloves,  and  go  down  forty  steps.  After 
my  piece  I  agani  V^t  on  my  furs,  left  at  the  door,  and  go 
tU)  the  forty  steps.  The  progrannne  half  over,  1  have 
already  two" hundred  steps  in  my  legs. 

DAtTON,  Ohio. 

Excellent  audience  — syraiiathetic  and  warm.  Hotel, 
Siherian!  Hiirh  ceiUngs";  immense,  dark,  and  damp  cor- 
ridors; a  tota'l  ahsence  of  heaters.  My  Swedish  doctor, 
of  whom  I  have  already  liad  occasion  to  speak,  ought  to 
come  here  and  estahlish  himself  in  one  of  the  halls  of  iMid- 
lips's  Hotel.     Besides,  the  young  man  at  the  desk  otlers  a 


334 


ynTES  oh'  .1  riASisT. 


1.  nf  11...  iiirtiuMico  of  colil  Oil  himmii  imtuir. 
l>»-'ivr'  ...        ,11 

Fcliruary  H- 

lnor  you ;  it  will  p- y*- -;>;;;;;  j  '^     ''oi^yway 

.r,>niity  that,  i.H  a.HonU'.!  to  ait,  and  mc 
i,rv.hu-hitsai8cil.U-saretirat.-.l:    - 

.l.asnotal.loto^;to(;ott..^i^l<V.^^^^^^ 

•„,..,  but  T  luuU.rstaua  t''''V;hv     .m      tl   k      .n.in.',  two 
ir'  ho  i.  willing  to  o.mio  >^^\;^y^[  "^'^    ,,i„,    ' 
c,r  throe  of  his  i.ioccs.     Ut  tomst,     an^^  ^)^^j^^^ ___„ 

T   .....vo  11  conoort  at  WilminiXton  (tho 
Three  years  ap.  T  ^^^  ^  ^^  „,„,,    o,,,-  ...ui- 

iKiMV  consisted  ot    I  1'.^""  ";,'      .  .'....urorial  haton  of  Stra- 
\u.i;re.,s,  a.ul  laysell,  un.lor  \';';'^.'     ,,,,,,.     The  a.^ 
kosoh.     The    reeeipts  ^Y''>:    ;*^^.  .^.^  l^^^e    ,     ,  bn'tln-rs  In 
l.lauseO.     l>^'»'^^^'''r'^''^^;/,r/\w,  states   in   whieh 
.olities  as  h,  music,  »"' ^ '^\  V  L   ,,        Mux/io  i-ersisto.l 
luusieal  art  is  iu  Us  hrst  ;;  i^  ^   V^^^^'  jj,  l,uu2  at  Wil- 
,..^  '^^'V'lo^a  nv  e^  ;;ie;;eo:i.ut  ho  wouUl  m. 
Tr'^    'L     T li^re      is  aMi.om,oe.l  ei.^lit  .lavs  m  a. - 
iK-Uove  me.     Ha    «*"'^'^'.      ,-.,,,,.i,      \\\.  o-..  to  the  hotel, 
vauoo.     Wo  arrive  at  six  '^  "".^    0^',,, 'l.:„.,i,,n.l  villa-o. 
^vhioh  would  be  hardly  deoe nt    ^  ;^  ^^     .^'    -^  at  the  end 
Muzlo  visits,  the  ''-»^:;Vi^,.iJ    a    "utoiianoe  tells   mo 

of  a  few  "y""^^\,"'^'  tou,.f  IWu)   likes  cnoOKS 

well  enough  thut  the^^Umi>'.ut      «T         eight  tioketH  for 
,,,  hotter  than  that  of     S  -•        ;  -.;;\,,  ^,,,^ 
the  eonoort  M)ld,  an«l  ^^^^^'^  ,  ,  informs  the  seller 

Mn/io,  ten  mmu  OS  '^^^;^'  J^^. ^  .^.^i;^  n,{,,laeho  whieh  will 
ot  music  thot  I  am  take,,  v^  it_h  ^^^  ^^^  l^.  „.^  ^,,,  ,1^^  ama- 
not  permit  me  to  appear  tins  *-^\"".-       .        .  t^,,.  hotel  ('0 
leuii  of  ^^^-^^\;^:^:^T^^:^u.  letter  \. 
1  reoeived  tl'.roU|ch    ^I^V"  '        sc  4be  for  the  editieation  of 
a  feminine  hanu,  which  I  tiauseiiUt  lor 

luy  readers. 


U. 


TWO  sToiiirs. 


r. 


1  (Ml   huiimii  iiiituro. 
cot"  all  Antic  p'-lur 

Ft'liru.iry  l-l- 
writtoii  to    he  pro- 
,e  mi.l      '       iiiscnlie 
the  -   -ill      lonnt  ot 

Ik'rt  concert  last  ovoti- 
,„,ir  hotel.  Ask  him 
Urf,  thirt  iiinrniiiii;,  two 
uill  ).ay  him. 

"  SiiTiu'tl — • 

t  nt  WilnrmL'toii  ^tl>« 
live  tluMv).     Our  conj- 
liss  Hiiukly,  Mon-iisi, 
liwerial  haton  of  St  ra- 
ti vc  .lulhirs.     The  ap- 
y  arc  twin  brothers  in 
two  States   in   whieh 
.sit!;n.     Mnx.io  jiersisteil 
me' his  fortune  at  W  il- 
nec,  l«ut  he  wc.uUl  n(.t 
need  iii;ht  tlavs  m  lul- 
\Ve  u-o  to  the  hotel, 
a  New  'Kns;lan«l  villa.i,a>. 
,  eomes  hack  at  the  end 
d  eounteiiaiiee  tells   me 
1  of  IHiu')   likes  eoneei.s 
.,•0  lu-o  eight  tickets  ior 
•k  in  the  eveninsr. 
a-avely  informs  the  seller 
^k'lit  headache  whieh  will 

in<^  before  the  eiirht  ama- 
10  evening  at  the  hotcK^.O 
t'  a  gentleman  a  letter  m 
ibetbr  the  editication  ot 


885 


""NVe  are  very  disiii)|.oinf»'d  in  not  iiearing  you.  Wc  are 
many  ladies  now  at  tlie  music  store;  will  you  Ik-  so  kind  as 
to  Clinic  and  play  something  for  us?  Wo  will  pay  yoii  the 
price  of  the  tickets."  No  signature.  Can  it  be,  Mndam  or 
Nliss,  that  the  iniiati"  delicacy  of  woman,  and  particularly  of 
Anu'rii-an  woman  can  it  bt^  that  the  music  which  yoil 
must  lovi'  since  yoii  will  spend  the  cvi-ning  at  the  music 
store  awaitiiu";  iuy  coming  to  play,  has  not  suggested  lo 
you  that  it  was  unworthy  of  you  to  speak  of  tin-  /'/'"    n/ 

This  rcciills  to  nu'  twostories  which  represent  your  action 
under  two  aspicts.  One  grotes(|ue,  tiie  oilu-r  uiico''tli, 
iiccordiiig  as  I  look  at  thi'iii  from  the  point  of  view  of  my 
pocket,  or  of  my  heart. 

A  certain  (Jascon  was  he  a  (JasconV  The  French  say  a 
(Jascoii,  the  iMiglish  Avould  say  an  Irishman,  the  Italians  a 
Neapolitan,  the  Spaniards  an  Andalusian,  eai'li  nation  hav- 
ing its  type  of  clown — which  in  all  is  idi'iitically  the  same. 
L.  t  us  say  (lascon.  A  (iascoii  then  saw  at  an  inn  a  beau- 
tiful parrot,  lie  had  never  tasted  a  tropical  bird.  He  was 
seized  with  a  desire  to  taste  it.  "It  the  taste  is  eipial  to 
its  plumaire  this  must  be  the  pheasant  of  the  iVmericaii 
forests!"  ■  ,    .  „ 

"  How  much  for  your  parrot  ?"     "  One  hundred  francs, 
answcreil  his  host. 

"  W'lT  well,  eook  it."  Tlu'  innkeeper  knew  his  trade, 
lie  wrung  the  neck  of  the  poor  bird  and  put  it  immediately 
on  the  spit.  "Now,"  said  the  Gascon,  "give  me  five 
francs'  worth." 

This  is  for  the  pr'x'c  of  l/ir  lic/crts. 
Now  for  the  second  story. 

I  was  travelling  in  Switzerland  giving  concerts.  T  was 
tlien  very  young."  Without  doubt,  thanks  to  this  circum- 
stance, iiioVe  tlian  to  my  talent,  there  was  at  Lausanne  a 
great  desire  to  see  and  hear  me.  My  first  concert  attracted 
ai:  immense  crowd.  1  heard  one  day  an  ol«l  lady  spoken 
of,  who  had  lost  her  fn-tune,  who  adored  music,  but  whose 
poverty  and  infirmities  |irevented  her  from  going  to  bear 
mi'.  She  had  expressed  her  regrets  by  saying  that  she  had 
never  so  cruelly  felt  the  loss  of  her*^  fortune  as  in  seeing 
herself  deprived  of  listening  to  music. 


r 


336 


XOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


I  i„.inirc<l  ^^■hevv  sho  livo.l,  mul  m  roAuooa  n.ysolf  to  ho 

She  ^vis  a  panilytic  lady,  vory  ,hstnjr.uslu..l  l'}' J><;;t '^^ 

.„Hl  iH V  v.mral.le  aHH'annu'O,  and  1  shall  novcr  lorget  the 

.  d  ..• .  .notion  whu'h  i  lolt  at  th.  hottom  ot  n.y  hmrt  on 

s  .0  m^^  two  tears  from  her  eyes  when  I.  otle.vd  to  ,,ass  the 

ovenin-  with  her,  to  play  for  herselt  alone  everytlnng  whi.-h 

hn:o;d.l  he  pi 'aseJl  to  ask  nu>.     Tl.e  next  monnng  a  te^ 

tliis  to  nu",  delieions  evenintr,  1  received  ironi  an  LngU^ii- 

nan'  ^O  mv  ehannin-  hut  ir.delieate  AViha.ngton  (..rre- 

J,:on.lents,l  then  thou-ht  that  only  an  En-lishnmn  eould 

be  oapal.lo  of  siieh  a  thin-)  tne  followin,|.-  letter :- 

-8ir,I  hear  that  you  have  been  h'^O^^f  ^''',.^  *  J'^"'^^^ 

. \\y  wife  also  is  ill,  and  tor  a  number  ot  years  has  n(  t 

h'ft  her  eluunher.     She  desires  to  hear  you.     I  otter  you 
ten  dollars  to  play  two  pieces  to  her  . 
'       My  answer  to  the  Englishman  apphes  eniialh,  a\  oH  to  my 
Wilminiiton  convspoiKients. 

"  I  have  received  the  letter  m  which  you  do  me  the 
honour  ofmakin-mothootfer  of  ten  (hdlars  to  play  two 
pS^  to  vourwUe.  I  might  tc.rgetthe  want  otd^ioac^ 
•uul  tact  which  your  rcpiest  shows,  it  it  was  not  lor  the 
vexation  it  dves  me  which  prevents  me  by  its  uucouthness, 
from  acceding  to  the  desire  ot  an  invalid. 


CIIArTER  XXI. 

Toi.rpo,  Oliver  IIorsE. 
On-k  of  the  best  houses  in  the  United  States.     The  com- 
plaisance of  uie  Nvaiter  goe«  to  our  heart,  and  ti  Is  it  m t h 
larin  gratit.de,  like  the  rays  of  the  ';'-^-|<l-i;"\^|^*^ 
melts  the  last  crust  of  snow,  and  makes  the  tii^t  guei 
Zots  appear.     A  very  striking  contrast  to  the  insolence 

of  the  mail  at  1) . 

New  Youk. 

the 


Th 
first  time 


rco  years  n-o  I  wrote  this:  "Heard  yesterday,  ibr  the 
time,  Miss  liellogg ;  a  charming  artist,  a  groat  deal  ot 


ii 


ST. 


A  SUBJECT  TO  BE  PROUD  OF. 


oduood  myself  to  hev. 
irnislu'd  liy  Iht  tiistos 
shall  lu'VL'r  lorget  tlio 
ottdiii  of  my  lu'iirt  on 
I  1  otfeml  to  ]iusri  the 
[one  evL'rytliiii<!;  wliicU 
he  next  morning  after 
ivetl  iVom  an  Eng-lish- 
te  AVihaington  corre- 
an  Englishman  eould 
vinii  letter: — 
1  Inlaying  for  ]\radame 
umber  of  years  has  not 
hear  yon.     I  otfer  you 

)iies  ennally  well  to  my 

Avliioh  yon  do  me  the 
ten  dollars  to  play  two 
et  the  want  of  delieaey 
S  if  it  was  not  for  the 
<  ii)e,  by  its  mieouthuess, 
valid." 


XI. 

Toi.DDO,  Oliver  IIorsE. 
nited  States.  The  eom- 
r  heart,  and  tills  it  with 
the  uiK'londed  sun  that 
1  makes  the  tirst  green 
.-ontrast  to  the  insolenee 

New  York. 

Heard  yesterday,  for  the 
ing  artist,  a  great  deal  of 


distinction  in  her  deportmenr  and  in  her  intelligence." 
Since  then  Miss  Kellogg's  talent  has  only  increased.  The 
]iart  of  '  Marguerite'  in '  Faust'  is  in  every  one's  ,;\emory ,  anil 
will  not  he  easily  ettaeed. 

Is  it  not  a  subject  to  be  proud  of,  to  thiid<  that  we,  who 
vesterdav  were  not  able  to  count,  so  to  say,  one  artist,  can 
"to-day  claim  as  ours  talents  like  Towers,  rainier,  Miss 
Stebbins,  t'hurch,  Bierstadt,  etc.?  I  recall  the  astonish- 
ment with  which  they  read  in  Europe  the  tales  of  I'oe, 
whose  success  in  France,  England,  and  Germany  was 
already  secured  long  before  his  lei  low-countrymen  wished 
to  accord  him  any  merit.  "What!  an  American?"  and 
the  people  were  astonished  that  a  nation  of  mi  rchaiits  could 
engender  a  poet.  They  only  knew  our  literature  through 
Cooper,  whose  works  are  translated  into  every  tongue. 
Washington  Irving  himself,  although  his  name  is  known, 
has  never  had  any  literary  success  outside  (»f  the  L'nited 
States,  excejit  in  England. 

l)Ut  the  Aincricaiiop/Kihi's  also  say:  Poe  has  never  been 
understood  in  his  own  country.  From  whence  lia.-s  come  the 
great  o[)position  of  that  cli([ue  of  imbecile,  jealous,  and 
sterile  [)edants,  who,  like  thistles  and  thorns,  always 
encumber  the  avenues  of  all  the  arts,  and  dispute  their 
])lace  in  the  sun  with  the  generous  and  vivacious  plants, 
who,  histead  of  thorns,  jtreseiit  to  the  sight  tlowers  and 
fruit?  IFow  many  scratches  and  wounds  for  the  man  ■)f 
talent  before  he  //r/,s  rid  o/"  these  im[)ertinent  brambles? 
"  Tie  had  immoral  jirinciples."  Ah  !  that  is  the  great  word. 
AVlieii  then  will  you  separate  the  man  from  the  writer? 
the  instrument  I'rom  the  thoiiu-ht?  Will  you  find  the  vir- 
gins of  Raphael  lacking  in  purity,  because  Raphael  loved 
Fornarina?  Do  you  deny  the  perfume  of  the  attar  of  roses 
because  the  Chinese  inclose  it  in  jars  of  stone  instead  of 
vases  of  gold?  Ry  this  reckoning,  villaiioiis  verses  made 
by  a  virtuous  writer  ought  to  be  read  in  preference  to  the 
l)oetrv  of  Byron,  who  was  far  from  heiiii!;  a  vessel  of  elec- 
tion !■' 

Let  me  he  understood.     I  lament  that  the  man  of  genius 

is,  sometimes,  from  his  private  character  unworthy  of  the 

sentiments  which  his  writings  inspire ;  but  do  not  forget 

that  he  dies,  while  his  works  live,     llis  neighbours  only 

20 


i 


tf 


ooa  NOTES  OF  A  PlAyi'-iT. 

1,0  is  not  a  l-fliover.  Bnt  ln>  \v  -  .  J!  •.!,,, ,|,  .,„a 
IL.  ages,  lunnnous  -^,-'7;^^;e<l  nations,  and  a.v 
imrity   ronung   generation.        ,  .^\V  ,.,.^,..     ^vhat  does  it 

1,H.  only  ----'  ,X  \  -  n^-'-i-^  ^'^  ^''"'"'■-'"  ^ 
inattH-  to  me  ^^f  ^l^''l''''''  .J .  ,  .h,.  .livine  ehiUl  l.A.k:s  *.n  ns, 
La  Vierge  iV  a  yl''^;-;/;;^  ^^  ^  e  nbrandt  was  a  nuse.-. 
i,  not  ^- »'  "'":;;y '^1  ::r  e  s  maweUous  t  AVas  he  a 
Are  Ins  hg'hts  '^  '  ,^1"\*)  )  J^.  n,,^,,,  has  ,iot  always  been  a 
miser  ot  his  pah'tte  .  J^fJ'^Vf  .  ,r.  ^.^.1,^  on  the  Hearth, 
imtternofeon.iugalhdelit).     ^  \';^'%    ^he  l-ieture  of 

kv^hing  in  its  v^^-^j^-^ -i^;,,.::;ivthc?twiiight^ 

I)  ckens  s  hearth. , -^^'^/VV ',  '  i.,,i,r  o,x  that  aoeount  less  ot 
Is  the  author  of  '  l>'\^'i^V^l^^  ,n  v  I  art  less  of  sterile 
i,.vatwriterv  No  ^  ^^ '  ^  ve  iS^  the  heantilnl 
o.ul  inrrow  morality,  and  nioic  y.  • 

^htt^tlo  say,  iW  the  Pj;;^^-^^-;^  ,,,  ,..  the  whole 
T<.  make  the  works  ot  ^^i^'^^/^*^'     1,,,,,,,,  to  me  asahsnr.1 
of  his  vrivat.  Wb,  is  f- ^J^'  :M'^t\  ose  ease  might  he  of 
as  to  deny  the  t.^ie  |^  ;   hnc      an^^  ^^^^^^  ^ 

rough  wood.  _  I  know  a    ea  ^^.^^tation  thite  ot  massive 

leaving  at  his  e.meeit.  *^'  ;M>'^^  (^V       ^      ^,^,,i,i.     Alas'. 
liKor.'  It  had  tlic  ^^f;^;:^^^      ^^^^^  the  world  of  artV 
how  many  silver  Untes  f'-f'^^^'l^^  ^,,.  to  eho.)se  yonr 
Of  c-onrse,  I  miders  and  ^^''^^  ,,;^;;'\,\^  t()  have  near  yon 
ncighhonrs,  it  wonld  l;^V'::;;',;^:hfb  'whose  morals  might 
a  luan,  whatever  lV^^■''^''\t      f  very  resv.ec-talde  imheeile. 
,ormi>t  all  »»-''""^^'^"^'f;    .[^Vo^orr Jspon.l  with  your 
t^o,  when  you  purchase  '\  1'^';  "^  ™^;,,  ,„,  ^bonv  before  in- 
funiiture,  yon  '^^'l^'^'t/''^V^;  "',    t  I    "ite  as  raueh  eontest 
qniruig  if  it  has  a  .i}"^\'\''J' J  •,;,!£;  of  vonr  artist 
yonr  right  to  proseribe  ^^^«  ^"^  ^^.f  ,.  ,^,  ba^e  observed 
J,eighbour  ot^;l-','>^!:^^::t:.,neXthan  yourself,  as  to 
r,^;^ita::;iMto;:e^i?i^-instrumeiitbeeauseitis 

"^t^yoin^u-  ^vhen  you.hc^  -j^iphoiv.  <^  BeeUioven 
played  l,v  the  I'bilharmonie  ^P^^l^ oi  the  best 
Ibal  intelligen.  devotion  -^^J't^:\:Z.,,ryo  if  the 


AMUsiycr  coyvKRSA  nox. 


830 


■ots  (Irntik,  or  tluit 
TIh'V  pass  thronsi-U 
Thoy  oimobli!  and 
(1   nations,  »i>'l  '*''^' 
ity.     AVhat  (loos  it 
irrii'd  to  Fornariui  ■ 
lie  child  I'Aik:-;  on  ns, 
iibrandt  waw  a  miser, 
vellous?     AVas  lie  a 
vs  not  always  beon  a^ 
K-ket  on  the  Hearth,  _ 

^av,  the  I'i^-V"-^  f'J 
erecl  by  the  twilight  J 

,11  that"  aooount  less  ot 

;e  in  art  less  of  sterile 

Dve  for  the  l)eantifal 

,oiisihle  for  the  whole 
.eeins  to  me  as  absurd 
hose  ease  might  be  of 
.itist,  who  insisted  on 
ation  thite  of  massive 
in  the  world.     Alas. 

in  the  world  of  art  i 
11  are  to  choose  your 
eable  to  have  near  you 
e,  whose  morals  might 
v'respeetalde  imbecile. 

correspond  with  your 
my  or  ebony  before  m- 
[  ("piite  as  much  contest 
liratious  of  your  artist 
ulse  you  have  obsL>rve<l 
tly  than  yourself,  as  to 
ustrument  because  it  is 

vmphonv  of  Beethoven 
'stra  of  :N\^w  York  with 
akes  it  one  of  the  host 
riause  to  observe  it  tlie 
'iccolo  has  his  hair  care- 


fully comlted,  and  if  the  violinists  in  the  front  rows  have 
their  boots  blackened  ?     Cei-tainly  not ;  and  it  is  fortunate, 
for  your  ])leasure  would  often  1)0  diminislii'd. 
Poor  I*oe!     He  drank!     AV'lio  knows  it  now? 

The  other  day  in  the  car,  there  being  no  seat,  1  took 
refuge  in  the  baggage-car,  and  there  I  smoked  for  two 
liours,  seated  on  the  case  of  my  ])iaiio,  alongside  of  which, 
0  human  frailty !  were  two  other  cases  also  inclosing  in- 
struments, nowinuto,  siiice  the  principle  which  made  them 
vibrato,  under  a  skilful  toiu-li,  like  a  keyboanl,  has  left 
them.  Tlioy  were  the  bodies  of  two  young  soldiers  killed 
in  one  of  the  late  battles. 

Pi-NKiHK,  February  14. 

Conversation  l)etween  two  ladies  who  conversed  iu  the 
corridor  of  the  hotel  opposite  my  cliamlK'r:  "What  an 
eccentric  man  this  Gottschalk  is.  He  is,  however,  no 
great  thing.  Lately,  at  Boston,  ho  had  to  leave  suddenly, 
and  his  concerts  no  longer  attract  anybody! 

Another  amusing  thing.  At  St.  Louis,_an  officer  speak- 
ina;  of  me  to  a  lady,  one  of  my  friends  beiiig  near: — 

"Lddil.  "Has  lieWei\'od  any  education?" 

Offira:  "Xone  at  all;  buf  that  docs  not  prevent  him 
froiii  being  a  very  good  iellow." 

LwJ'i.  "  I  thought  so." 

Offior.  "Say  nothing  ])ad  of  him,  I  beg  you:  for,  as  I 
have  told  you,  he  is  one  of  my  friends." 

Lady.  "  How  does  he  speak  French  ?" 

Ojfictr.  "  Oh !  very  imperfectly ;  but  you  know  he  is  a 
Sj)aniard," 

O  truth!  why  art  thou  not  petroleum!  One  would  at 
least  know  where  to  dig  a  well  to  make  thee  flow  out. 

February  lli. 

Superl)  concert  at  Roclioster.  An  anomaly.  A  crowd, 
and  a  ijrcat  dad  of  enthusiasm. 

Batavia,  February  17. 

Xo  audience,  and  no  applause.  Just  as  we  are  com- 
mencing, the  man  who  attends  to  the  gas  forewarns  us 
that  at  nine  o'clock  all  the  lights  will  be  extinguished. 


340 


NOTE^   "^yA  PIAMST. 


r. 


Erie,  February  18. 

Inill  on  "'^    '-  ,1  , '  I       ,  ,.|,,sa  oftlw  Amcncaiia  are 
jrofMr^ama„,werea:'-N„„,. 

,K  ,M1,"  Uonoc  <lUl,.n-aca,  nhy  not  bo  anmseil  mstcail  of 

i;;So  1^  >-  hMt'i.::::;^!^  «r'r.u: 

tlu'v  want,  throw  all  that  nas  ullm  j^i  <- i        ,,     „    ,. 

«'"";f ■•  A'u-t "  tir;  rsini;'  .^^  ss  y^  i  J:: 
;lxitrg:rrna;;rv.f:::fjr,'^;;:^^^^^ 

inalo  It  longer  ,i„„„a„rt  wiucita  wliu'h  I  bavo 

gU^nlu  t:".  hapFuod  one  Imn.lml  .ina,  that  I  have 
refused  an  oucorc. 

r  have  never  seen  so  many  tipplers  and  drudans-places, 

l^n.  Zst^SM.):  ^^^t  there  is  the  habitual  drunkard, 

-'^::::^:^^        ti.  .ost  in. 

mori  dty    n  the  ifnited  States.     ';  It  is  a  Gcnnorrah 
^vs  Le  pai  en     Rest  assured  that,  if  it  ever  is  on  hr(?,  it 
will  no?  be  a  tire  from  heaven,  but  from  spontaneous  com- 

bustion. 

February  18. 

liionths  which  I  have  travelled  in  the  A\  est,  it  i.  the  toirj 


AUXT  LIBDY. 


341 


Erie,  February  18. 

the  evening  at  the 
struck  with  a  snow- 
Y  the  hlow.     How 
^nierioans  arc  I 
jort.      I  asked  the 
D  here  pays  a  (k)llar 
angry  to  pay  that 
ehikl  the  public;  is  '. 
id  it  come?    AVheu 
0  amused  instead  of 

something  for  its 
lildren  to  "me,  who, 
ts  civen  to  them  as 
given  them  on  the 
y  being  sulky  ?  Do 
t ;  l)ecause  you  have 

concert.  You  com- 
Why  have  you  not 
cd  to  repeat  a  piece, 
lu'crts  which  I  have 
x\  times  that  I  have 


and  drinking-plaees, 
s,  as  at  Washington, 
ness  (they  are  all  of 
3  habitual  drunkard, 

Tton  is  the  most  im- 
-It  is  a  Gomorrah," 
if  it  ever  is  on  tir<?,  it 
i-om  spontaneous  com- 

Fobruary  18. 

ort,  thirteen  hours  on 
"  It  is  the  first  time 
hs,"  is  the  invariable 
'lare  that,  in  the  three 
e  West,  it  is  the  forty- 


eightli  time  that  the  train  on  wliirli  I  liavo  been  has  lurn 
stopped  by  an  accident,  either  to  itself,  or  from  tlie  train 
which  preceded  us,  and  obstructed  the  road. 

_  At  this  evening's  concert,  Lockport,  I'aitliful  to  its  tradi- 
tions, furiushes  us  with  a  JiOckport  audii'uce — that  is  to 
say  one  hundred  persons  gaping  for  their  money,  and  who 
do  n()t  aiiplaud.  "  Tlie  sealded Cat  dreads  cold  water."  At 
the  iirst  concert  which  I  gave  here,  there  were  three  liun- 
drcd  persons.  They  had  never  seen  such  an  entertainment, 
and  swore  that  no  one  should  take  them  in  again.  Since 
then  I  liave  tried  my  fortune  liere  four  or  five  times,  but 
always  with  the  same  result.  TIm  evening,  however,  they 
have  varied  the  monotony  a  little  by  hissing. 

"  Pardon  me,  0  Muse !  1  have  cut  thy  wings,  and  instead 
of  letting  thee  tly  into  space,  I  have  usl'd  thee  to  make  the 
pot  boil." 

It  is  not  for  music,  no  more  is  it  for  art,  to  come  and  give 
a  concert  at  Locki)ort. 

■  The  artist's  imagination  lias  no  wings  save  when  it  is  in 
those  spheres  in  which  it  can  unfold  them  and  Hy.  Here 
it  becomes  a  gosling,  and  is  only  good  to  make  the  pot  boil. 
We  have  not  even  that  consolation  at  Lockport. 

Utica,  May  2. 

As  always  a  charming  audience.     I  have  paid  visits  to 

all  my  good  friends.     8^^^ ,  a  charming  )■•.;  m,  and  good 

nmsician.  Dr.  K — — ,  my  old  friend,  a  nmn  iircat  merit, 
who  has  written  some  important  works  on  ini  m.^ity.  I  have 
naturally  visited  the  asylum,  and  have  been  recognized  by 
all  my  friends.  'Aunt  Libl»y,'  an  old  woman  with  pale 
complexion,  immediately  recognized  me.  She  is  always 
dressed  in  a  pink  gown,  with  a  very  large  sash,  a  ])laite<l  cap 
decorated  with  gilt  paper,  and  a  little  white  woollen  shawl 
trinmied  with  blue  nuislin.  Small,  plain  shoes.  She  in- 
forms us  that  the  Queen  of  England  is  enchanted  >  visit  her, 
and  gives  her  the  sum  of  five  hundred  thousand  dollars. 
Wo  play  and  sing  in  the  principal  hall  of  the  asyhnn.  All 
are  standing  around  us  listening.  Aunt  Libby,  Avho  is 
conscious  of  her  high  position,  whilst  we  aa'c  playing,  o]»en8 
Avith  an  air  of  great  dignitv  an  umbrella,  which  she  holds 

■'20* 


1 


m; 


yoTES  OF  A  riAyisT. 

the  wh..lo  time  in  the  air.     I  ask  her  to  l-lay  (n-  sing,  whirh 
H  0    iJ    a    or  hcin^-  we-11  i-rrsuadod.     1  g-iv.  her  n.y  ar.n 
;    .,       u.    hor  t„  the  piuno.     She  ro-iucsts  in-,  with  great 
1  1  V  a  .<l  c..n.loseensiou  to  hohl  her  ian  and  her  haiul- 

ke  •      ef  '  The  go,ul   old   woman    improvise^   a   knul    ot 
bu  ;ir  .'eonipanlinent  (al..ys  h.  .),  u  sort  of  ^-t  to  words 
mIso  iiin-rovised— 'I  ^*ee  the  Angels,'  tuclc,  Uwh^tucL       i 
;"te  Angels;  ^lUu,.  .lou.j  {Ml)  M  tnck^U.rk  (here  she 
■  es  a  scale),  an.l  looking  with  evi.le.it  pleasure,  t.r^t  at 
/key-hoaiil,  then  at  those  annuu    her,  ^l^e  .•ominenees 
^  Yankee  Doo.lle,'  then  ends  with  'God,  save    1-       'J^  ; 
'  Kinu-  George,'  dhuj,  <lou,j  ;  another  flonnsh  ^;,"'l^:;  ^'^»     ". 
of  a  Vcale,    hen  she  rises  from  the  piano  to  reeeue  ^^  th  a 
no  est   air  onr   eompliments.     r<.or   oM  woman!    she  i. 
c    -luinted,  and  oilers  to  show  me  her  sanetnm,  sane  onnn, 
'h   '     is  f  dl  of  shells,  and  all  sorts  of    eunous  things. 
Th;i.  another  lady  is  introduced  to  us,  -l-  --P'^';;- 

1 to  his  great  eonsternation,  as  having  been  hei  luis 

nud''  Afterwards  we  see  a  lady  who  belies  es  herselt 
^'  have  been  betrothed  to  General  ^^^t^^^"-''' Ti  .k'' 
1  leathed  by  him  to  alHhe  presidents  c>t  the  I  in  ed  S  a  e. 
She  is  evidently  oonsei.ms  of  the  prolihc  grandeui  ot  u 
mission,  an.l  rej.nees  in  having  been  the  instrument  tor  a 
Doitulation  of  thirty  million  souls. 

^i  recognize  some^f  the  eases  which  last  ycnir  were  among 
the  woi't.  These  now  are  persons  ot  'distinguished  and 
modest  behaviour,  who  have  so  well  progressed  that  in  a 
short  time  they  will  leave  the  asylum. 

Bi-VFALO,  March  23,  24,  and  25. 

Charming  eoncert.     Kind  aTidience.     I  love  Buijalo  and 
Rochester  -these  arc  two  cities  in  whidi  I  always  p  ay  witli 
^::  '^raeuse  is  cold.     I  have  never  obtamjxl  tin.,  a 
arge  audience.     The  last  concert  was  a  "  eh   1>   .vttai.. 
That  is  what  the  newspapers  say.     It  riohtl y  adds  that  the 
andience  and  the  artist  parted   mutually  disgusted  w  itl 
ech  other.     It  is  true  at  least,  as  far  as  lygards  one  ot 
tiiem,  the  audience,  if  I  might  judge  frmii  its  behaviour. 
Not  one  applause  from  the  beginning  to  the  eiu  .     i  la s  c i- 
^heless  did  mv  best,  and  I  am  certain  that  t  iis  audK.ieo 
muler  the  spur^of  three  or  fourclacpieurs,  would  have  wamu  d 


VA L UL  OF  APPLA I 'SF. 


843 


lay  orsiiig,wiru'li 
•vivi-  lior  my  ana 
4.S  111''  with  gmit 
I'aii  ami  licr  liantl- 
Dviscs   ii   kind   of 
ot'c'liant  towonlrt 
c/,-,  /(/'•/,•,  tiirL     '  I 
((•/:,  itii-k  (lioro  she 
t  iiU'iirturo,  first  at 
■r,  islio  coinnic'iK'C'rt 
.  save  tlie  Qiu'on,' 
isli  uiuU-r  till'  form 
)  to  rcH'C'ivo  witli  a 
1(1  woman!    f^lio  i^^ 
ui(.'tnm  smctorum, 
at"    cnrious  tliint^s. 
IS,  who  iTcoirnizc's 
vinjii;  heon  hor  hus- 
lu)  i)L'lic'\08   hc'i-si'lf 
ashington,  and  bo- 
f  the  Cnitod  States. 
tic  grandeur  of  her 
lie  instrument  for  a 

ist  year  Avore  among 
f  distinguished  and 
jro<>;ressed  that  in  a 


,  March  23,  24,  niul  25. 

I  love  Burtalo  and 
hi  always  play  with 
3ver  obtained  ihere  a 
IS  a  "chilly  affair." 
•iu'htly  adds,  that  the 
tally  disgusted  Avitk 
ir  as  regards  one  of 
!  from  its  behaviour, 
to  the  end.  I  never- 
n  that  this  audience, 
s,  would  have  warmed 


u]i,  and  would  have  found  that  charming  which  to-day  is 
rmmd  wearisdiiu',  'J'he  commencement  of  a  conei'i't  may 
lie  conqiared  to  the  first  stage  of  a  graml  dinner,  hi't'oiv  the 
ice  is  broken,  when  evi'i-y  one  is  afraid  to  iireak  the  siK'iK'i", 
and  we  hardly  dare  to  "speak  to  our  neighbour  but  helow 
our  breath,  "if  among  the  guests  tlii'i'e  is  one  who  bri'aks 
the  ice,  immediately  all  speak  at  once,and  the  conversation 
having  beconu'  geiu'ral,  each  one  tries  to  keep  it  up.  In  a 
concert,  if  there  is  a  knot  of  determiiieil  persons  who,  bold 
enough,  dare  to  give  the  signal,  the  crowd  immediately 
follow  the  current.  It  wanns  up,  the  nerves  are  atfceted 
bvit;  the  excitement  causes  them  to  discover  points  which 
o"tlierwise  would  have  passed  by  unperceived.  It  gives  to 
their  perception  u  susceptibility  which  it  would  not  have 
under  ordinary  circumstanci's,  and  sometimes  evi'ii  makes 
them  discover  imaginary  beauties,  so  great  i.^  their  impa- 
tience to  find  food  tor  their  excitement.  Figure  to  yourself, 
on  the  contrary,  that  there  are  no  claqueurs;  you  play  the 
first  piece.  The  bond  is  lutt  yet  established  between  the 
artist  and  the  audience. 

The  artist  is  ignorant  of  the  disposition  of  the  audience; 
the  latter  may  have  liked  the  piei-e,  which  being  iinished, 
an  amateur  counting  on  the  enthusiasm  cf  the  others 
ai.plauds  warmly— clap!  clap!!  but  finding  himself  alone 
he  dreads  being  remarked,  rtorne  turn  and  look  at  him. 
Like  a  tortoise  that  precipitately  withdraws  his  head 
into  his  shell  after  having  stealthily  adventured  to  see 
what  is  going  on  arouiur  liiin,  he  l)eeome.s_  as  small  as 
jtossible  iuid  takes  on  an  uidifferent  air  to  divert  the  sus- 
l)icioiis  of  those  who  are  looking  at  him.  The  artist,  who 
does  not  read  the  thoughts  of  the  auilicjice  and  judges 
of  its  sentiments  only  by  its  ap]ilause,  thinks  that  he  is 
not  ai)preciated.  lie  becomes  oppressed  by  a  feeling  of 
injustii'c,  and  hastens  to  finish  a  task  which  he  believes 
to'  be  e(iualiy  as  i)ainful  to  the  audience  as  to  himself. 
lie  even  skips  those  jiassages  which  he  would  have 
lengthened  con  oinorc  under  other  circumstances  if  he 
was  sure  of  being  appreciated.  Like  a  Hanie  in  a  heavy 
and  moist  atmosjdiere  his  insj  irations  diniinjsli  and  end 
by  becoming  extinguished.  Audience  and  artist,  for  want 
of  mutual  understanding,  and  whilst  both   are  animated 


Hi 


\OTES  OF  A  /'/.lA'/.sr. 

!•  *  .,1  w\\\\  o!ifl>  other. 
,,Uh  the  Lent  ^^^^^^^^:^  auaU..., 
Tl,;s  V  ^vl.ut  ^'■''in'*;'''^'*^ .;  \  ;.  ,     t,,,,  I  on  all  these-  point., 

an.'    -ad  only  instuu-t  to  .^'"  '^^    y^i^.^^  t,,^  ,o,urrt  %vas  lon.t,' 
"  .Ui  savint?  that  it  was  ^'''^'!,V^''J'       itself  (.t'nc.then.i; 

'^'^;^^;iS^;^aer  5:^  artist  .Uh  h.aUte.enee  and 

-^^^uodr^:(;"'^isin.esu  h^o  .^^^ 

n.c!^  artistic  or  a  nu>re  striking  hajnO^^  ,,^.  ,      ^ 

in  this  young  faeo  ^^^l^t^  ;^^  1      ^  the  stutf  for  a 

crown  of  el.ou  hair.     ^''   .^„  '•     ;.  u.  enee.     Halt  there,  my 
jrreat  artist  or  for  a  sui-er  m   \'^  "  -^  „,,e,  but  pay  your 

aiidheanstoatra\elia. 

New  York,  Aiinl  .5. 

-.-    1   f  „  r.ilUovnia  in  comnriny  with 

Some  days  after  one  of  >  *^^"^^,,,,th  afterwards  some 
asked  me  when  I  ^vas  go  g.  A  ^  ^,^^  ^  ^ed 
newspapers   announeed    ^^'^^  ^  '^.^,t,.     I  understood  that 

ntroX&ti;^ar^^^ 

of  my  voyage  when  an  "jn^^tm^e^^ario  for  the  i>urpose 
luont  for  some  "^""ths.     i  lu^  ^^^\  ^„  ^he  p  aeard  , 

of  stimulating  the  f  ^^^ 'V^'f^.,?,';;'^^  The  tour  iinished, 
u  tarewell  eoneerts  ^f  «^'«  ^'^^f  f^" ^v  York.  Saratoga  is 
the  summer  agam  found  "i^    '^J;  .     ^^j^.  autumn.     Some 


"  W/IAT!  YOU  Mir.  STILL  i/i:it/:." 


345 


with  each  otlitr. 
,iU  tlic  iuidu'iu-i', 
,n  all  tlu'su  ix/uit.*, 
irinj;,  wivrt  wili!*lii^'«i 
,c  I'oiu'i-rt  wiiri  l"i>,i? 
so  itself  «»f  not  la'UJi.' 
I  iouiid  iv  intimti'ly 
ith  ititlilVcivnco  una 

•vor  won   anything 
),iy  of  contour  than 
ivory,  Hct  ofV  hy  a 
riians  the  Htutt  h)r  a 
ice.    Halt  there,  my 
lance,  hut  i-ay  yonr 
,utch  you  fn.ni  yom- 
.our  dinner.     A.-*  tor 
,duig  a  plate  ot  i.ork 
\ 

New  York,  April  3. 
•nia  in  eonii>aiiy  with 

jy  him.  , .  ,  . 

aid  without  thmkm^; 
to  South  America. 
,  came  up  to  me  and 

onth  afterward^/VI"^ 

leaving   the    ini  ed 

■tri     I  uiiderstood  tliat 

•neiids  of  my  pre^^"^''^ 

oincr  out  the  itinerary 
ottered  me  an  engage- 
e.>.ario  for  the  purpose 
put  on  the  placard^, 
ire"  The  tour  hnished, 
ew  York.  Saratoga  is 
for  the  autumn,  ^ome 
rtomeinadisappomted 

■had  left."     The  newB- 
hittci>wect  way,  by  re- 


calling to  me  that  I  had  jmt 'farewell  eniieerts"  on  my 
plat'ards,  wliicli  was  e(|iiivalent  to  deceiviiii;  tlie  pulilie. 
I  took  up  again  my  itinerary  and  1  bought  a  iarii-e  trimk. 
Another  lucrative  engagement  jiresented  itself.  To  refuse 
was  easy,  'hut  a  hird  in  the  liand  is  woith  two  in  the 
bush.'  1  decided  to  remain.  Besides,  you  linve  alriadv 
understood  tiiat  I  iiad  no  di'sire  to  K'ave,  and  that  I  was 
hurning  to  find  a  pretext  to  oiler  to  'l»amc  Ut'aMin'  t(» 
justify  my  change  of  plans.  The  newspiipers  occupied 
tiieniselves,  i<nme  witli  intcri'st,  others  wilii  soui-ness,  aliont 
my  delay  iu  going.  My  frii'uds  overwhelmed  me  under 
the  Weight  of  an  incessant  "what!  yon  are  still  here,"  ai 
my  disajipointed  fellow  artists  began  to  cast  ferocio,  -, 
looks  at  me.  There  was  a  general  alarm.  1  must  re-'i;u 
myself,  willingly  or  unwillingly,  at  the  same  time  cu  •.ui;.' 
the  want  of  reflection  Avith  which  one  day  I  had  ex''  >e(' 
the  possibility  of  my  making  a  tour  to  South  Amenc.-!. 

For  those  who  live  on  the  outside  of  art,  entctng  it 
only  through  the  ]>ublic  door,  one  pianist  more  oi  is  '^ 
no  more  than  a  grain  of  sand  carried  by  the  winds  »  ne 
desert,  but  for  the  unsatiated  and  tamislu'd  givi'r  of  con- 
certs and  their  agents  one  pianist  less  is  a  piece  more  of 
cake  to  divide  among  themselves;  it  is  a  mean  of  one 
hundred  concerts  during  the  season  whose  rect'ij)ts  come 
hack  to  the  common  mass.  It  is  one  hundred  thousand 
dollars  which  falls  to  them  from  heaven,  without  taking 
into  consideration  the  relief  to  their  ainniir  jim/ur.  The 
absent  are  always  in  the  wrong,  and  once  gone,  the  ]iid)lie 
thinks  little  of  an  artist  whoin  once  it  liad  made  its  idol. 

One  tine  morning  in  Fei)ruary,  181!'),  I  made  a  contract 
Avith  Muzio  to  go  to  Calitiu-nia.  This  contract  wliii-h  I 
made  as  reasonable  as  possible  was  thus  conceived  "  that  my 
iiupressario  iu  all  probability  could  not  lose  nnicli  in  case 
of  failure  and  in  case  of  success  would  have  his  share  of 
the  i)rotits."  For  ten  years  I  ha<l  thought  of  visiting 
California.  In  18.55,  the  great  Smith,  the  old  agent  of 
Jenny  Lind,  ottered  me  an  engagement  for  San  Frani'isco 
which  I  acce]»ted.  He  was  to  go  on  hoard  the  steamer  San 
Francisco,  I  think,  i)receding  me  one  month,  but  two  hours 
hefore  embarking  he  broke  his  leg,  and  in  this  manner 
escaped  the  terrible  catastrophe  which  took  place  two  or 


A'or/>'  or  A  riAMST. 

I0S.S  (.f  liioiv  thilli  (Mu-lmlt  .'t  till  I''  .^^      .'^*         ,         ^,,„„.  ,„„. 
,,,,0,  u.vcTthc-loHS  was  ,„v(Ust nH«.U  ..     u>  nn .1.  lo,  t, 
tol.l.^.^unl.^:u^lot•tl.eHU.ulm;r  15a    u. 

York   M.c  last  this  tit.u.,  n.y  i-assa.i^a.    ..imlC  *'  y^'   J?"     . 

Si;';;;;:  .';r:!i  iv  n'> -:;;l  ^.o-u.  .i,y,o,K. ..  u. 

n!:  York  A.-a.U.ny  of  Musj..  m  th.  u.onn....,  an.l   tlu, 

(.th.r  at  Urooklyn  in  the  ovrmn.u'.  ..notions 

W'Ul.  .1   lu'iirt  swo  iMi  antl  au'itatcMl   it\  an  uu  «-ni    _ 

Iwas  an  uliot;  that  Mi.  H— ,  '  \;;^  ,      i,-,,;,  „„iv  th.we 
hi.  that  I  di.l  not  know  '';''^^;-.,.  [;;;^\  .'"^'i'     hvi.n.lsl.ips 

;3f;;iu;;aS^s.;;yrr ;:^^^^^^  inva-iahu.  ,^. 

Ji^^ 'u^kiJ^  a  CO.;;; 'liahou  t^  aU  that  I  lo.e  that  . 
good  and  generous?  ^^^.^  ^ 

T  h..vo  been  Dhuiged  for  four  days  in  Tartarus.     Poa- 


IS: 


oL'ii  PAssicxnKns. 


'.v\i 


tho  vosspunud  tho 
ci>«.  'riif  unliifUy 
Wiis  l()St,M>iiu-  one 

I  (•(inccrtrt  at  N'cw 
riiiLC  takou.  SoiiK' 
syiiiitiitliy  ivi(l  till' 

"tlu'so  last  soim's. 
Olio  tli<y,oiU'  at  the 

iiioriiuig'',  antl   tho 

by  all  tho  oinotloiH 
lose  wo  lovo  hv'w^A 
iho  unknown,  I  oiii- 
Arii'l.    On  loaviiiii; 
I  there.    Every  liu'o 
0  tender,  m«>ro  syni- 
hecauieinterestiiiij;. 
l-e.l,  by  feeling'  tlu'Ui 
sible  tbreatlrt  I  wart 
(lid  it  matter  to  ino 
il  in  his  journal  that 
\v  Vork',  ailirnied  in 
i  roeaUinj:  only  those 
tho  kind  tVieiitlshiiid 
D  tho  invariable  pul»- 
n  so  many  eoneertsll 
vividly  than  joy.     It 
ions  ert'usions  ot"  Mr.^ 
rid  of  the  attacks  of 
all  that  I  lose  that  ia 

April  8. 

>-s  in  Tartarus.  Pea- 
in,  but  the  sea  i_s  now 
ng  a  eigar  (whieh  on 
li^),  our"  bravo  little 
ir.  My  thoughts  lose 
fifteen"  hundred  miles 
all  those  whom  I  love! 
•rs,  many  of  whom  arc 


emigrants.  In  the  first  class  we  form  the  most  hetercgc* 
lU'iiiiM  iissemlilage  that  can  iM)s>ilil_v  lie  iniaiiiind  I  Singers; 
Striglia,  Misses  rhiHi[is,  Sciiiiri  Orlaiidi,  Ki>ssitli,  Mr. 
Mu/.ii>,  Miss  Simon,  his  wife  (thev  urrc  married  the  vi'ry 
iiiiirninix  of  our  dciiarturc),  I  )an  Sctchell,  ihc  talented  actor, 
a  riiiti'd  States  maishnl  (nt'  swcet  and  amiaiilc  nianiicis), 
a  Judge,  a  lawyer,  a  person  of  gross  and  sour  manners, 
who  meddles  in  everybody's  business,  ami  contradicts 
I'very  one,  treads  on  your  toes  without  asking  panloii,  and 
]nits  his  eiKH'iiious  eliair  in  the  most  ero\v<lcd  places,  ami 
wlure  there  is  tlii'  least  rooin.  There  are  al->o  a  number  of 
seiiatt'i's  and  doetors,  amiable  peopli!  who  make  themselvi's 
agrt'cable  to  everybody,  and  three  ininistcis,  who  preach 
olliciaily  twice  on  Sunday,  and  olliciou>ly  the  whole  day 
during  tliewi'ek;  Home  ladies,  ami  a  considcrabK-  rt'sidiio 
of  that  wi'll-known  class  of  panseiigers  without  exprosion 
whose  business  seems  to  be  to  repeal  fro'-,  time  to  tinu'  - 
'•  Kino  weather,"  "Tolerably  hot,"  "Dinner  will  soon  be 
ready,"  and  other  e(|UaIly  iuteri'sting  nniarks,  whose 
momentary  clearness  seems  only  to  augment  the  obscurity 
into  which  tliey  again  litll  after  having  ventured  these  re- 
markable observations. 

"We  have  many  la<lies,  but  they  are  all  married,  two  of 
them  liaving  lighted  the  torch  of  hymen  the  <lay  of  theii' 
dcjiartiire.  One  of  them,  a  foreigui'r,  takes  the  greatest 
]iossible  care  in  being  where  her  husband  is  not.  '  Flirta- 
tion," as  iar  as  concerns  us  old  bachelors,  is  very  rare  here, 
and  I,  isolated  and  alone,  conti'iit  myself  with  olwrving. 
I  see,  as  the  day  <lcclines,  each  happy  couple  r-ceking  a  lone 
eoriier,  and  tliis  involuntarily  recalls  fo  me  the  poor  tiim- 
ished  ones  who  suck  in  the  savoury  llavours  whieh  escape 
from  the  kitchen  window. 

April  12. 

In  sight  of  the  port  of  Aspinwall. 

During  our  dinner,  a  second-class  passenger  has  written 
for  anmsi'inent  a  bill  of  faro  which  lie  has  nailed  to  the 
quarter-deck. 

The  heading  is  a  tortoise,  very  well  drawn,  with  a  chim- 
ney on  his  back  and  a  wheel  on  eaiOi  sidi',  representing  the 
steamer  Ariel,  on  which  we  are,  and  wliich  is  known  as 
the  slowest  steamer  on  the  lino. 


848 


A'orA'A'  Of  A  riAMsr. 


BBCOND  CLASS -THREE  HUNDRED  DOLLARS. 

(Nolliiiij;  t'Xliii  lor  iiiuttlK.) 

lUI.I.  <»K  FAIIK, 

Dl.NNKH. 

>S'oh;i«. 
VandcrliUtiilluii, 


Turtl.', 

(mruU'liuil  out) 


Tuiki'y, 

(■I'rittrlii'il  <jiU) 

Lniiili, 

(KCIUIl'llI'll  nut) 


Cliicki'ii, 

(hlTBtilnil  out) 


OynttTH, 
(»'crulflicil  uul) 


(iriM'ii  l'(>n«, 

(MlUtclll-l    "111) 

JoruHaloin  Artichokt'H, 


Hiiki'il  Hcans, 
(ncrulcliiil  (pul) 


Minri'il  Pio, 

(m-nitiliiMl  Milt) 

Aiiti'ilihiviaii  I'ie, 
C.  S.  Army  I'ii-, 


lllMlSl, 

Gutta  IVreha, 


Boiled. 


Owl, 


OvHtcT. 
(armti'lii'il  uut) 


Odiwc, 
(■c'rillrliiMl  1)111) 

HlM.f. 

(ncrulclicd  uut) 


Ilaiii. 
(mritli'liiKl  out) 


Fried. 
Hoot  lloeU, 

Viyelahle». 
Boets  (dJHeased), 

Side  Di»hf». 

Hard-tack  (it  la  Monitor),  Lolintor  Salad. 

(Kcrutcliuil  uut) 

Pilot  Hroad    (iV  la  Iron- 
sidoM), 


Ilaiii  and  Mjik'S. 
(mriitilH  J  I'Uij 


("aiilillowiT. 
(scrutiiii'il  out) 


Dessert. 


Custard  Pit', 

(Hcnilclii'il  out) 

Drifd  Cin'uiiil'i'r  Pii'. 


Extras. 
Tomato  Ki'tchnp, 

Pleaso  roport  any  civilities  on  the  part  of  waiters 


Jco  Water. 


CABIBBKAK  STEAM-l'BINTKBg. 


This  itrovos  little  in  thvt^ir  of  the  tahle.     From  the  first 
abiu  I  eaii  judge  vi'  the  Bccoml,  and  the  sutire  is  just  antl 


Oil 

true. 


ii 


A.^ri\\\u.L. 


MO 


0  DOLLARS. 


stcT. 

mrlKMl  out) 


IIMC, 
rnlriiiMl  oiil) 

.•f. 
rulclicil  uiit) 


111), 
ritli'liuti  out) 


mi  (ind  V.fiiii*. 
riiti'lii'U  »ui) 


lllillllWIT, 
ruuiii'd  uut) 


.•rutiliL'<l  liut) 


usUnl  Pie, 

irulrlii'il  mil) 

riod  C'liciinil'iT  Pio. 


0  Water. 


lo.     From  the  first 
e  satire  is  just  uiul 


IHAITKR  XXll. 

Al-ril  12. 

Ei,i;vi:\  (i'cli)ck  ill  tin'  iiioniiiiu;.  l.iiinl  in  ^iu'lit.  Wc 
Hci!  till'  inoiiiitaiiis  ut'  New  (iri'iiadii  risiiiir  up  on  llic  li<>ii- 
Z(»li.  At  two  o'clock  wc  (lis,'  .trnish  Asiiiiiwall  ;  some 
wliito  hoiisi's,  ill  the  luiilst  of  wliicli  (lit'  Aiuciiciiii  tlai; 
.lonts  in  till'  bri't'/i-;  a  littli-  I'lirtlicr  on  a  I'roti'stant  clniicli 
of  cut  stone  ami  ( Jothic  aivhitcctiirt'  jircsi'iits  n  sintrnlar 
I'tfi'ct  ill  tlic  midst  of  the  [laliii-trees  ami  haiiilioos  which 
Hiirronml  it.  Aspinwall  is  still  only  u  >  Uaire;  itsiopnla- 
tion  tloes  not  exceed  one  thousand  souls,  two-thinls  of 
which  is  eoniposcd  of  neirrocs;  hut,  thaiiUs  to  the  flux  and 
reHiix  of  travellers,  wlio  every  tive  or  six  days  cross  the 
isthmus  from  one  ocean  to  the  other,  it  lias  a  certain  com- 
mercial impoi'tanee  and  extraordinary  animation.  It  wakes 
up  imnietliately  on  the  arrival  of  u  steamer.  Hardly  at  the 
-vvharf,  the  steamer  is  invaded  hy  ney'ro  porters  with  lai'u'o 
pointi'd  honnets  on  their  heads,' wliieh  recall  those  of  tlio 
aistroloi^ers,  maile  from  the  strintry  hark  of  a  tree,  and  are 
of  the  colour  of  tow.  We  have  ureat  tronhle  to  keep  otf 
tliis  turhulent  otlicions  HWarm,  who  seizo  hy  fotve  every 
]>ackaire  that  is  in  slight,  and  without  disqiiietinir  them- 
selves ahout  the  proprietor,  luid  whether  you  are  willin,!^ 
or  unwillinj;,  carry  it  on  land.  At  a  hundred  yards  from 
the  wharf  wo  find  ourselves  in  a  street,  about  Hve  hundred 
yards  long,  in  Avhieli  every  house  is  a  hotel.  There  are 
twelve  or" fifteen,  one  after  another,  all  American.  They 
are  one-story  frame-houses  with  a  porch.  The  roof  extends 
above  the  porch,  wliieh  is  sustained  by  beams,  and  formw 
a  veranda  on  the  grounil  floor. 

The  netr'- ss  fniit-sellers  abound.  They  are  elad  in  white 
muslin  fro\  IS,  low  in  the  neek,  with  short  sleeves.  The 
colour  of  til,  dress  is  sullied  by  the  dust,  scorehed  by  the 
sun,  and  rumpled  by  the  rain.  Eight  or  ten  rows  of 
fiounces  are  ru.iged  one  above  the  other  as  high  as  the 
80 


3o0 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAXIST. 


waist.  Bare  foot.  They  followed  us,  offering  ns_  in  poor 
Kiiii-lish,  l.iiiuuias,  cocoa-mits,  oran^c^^s,  and  some  eigars,  tor 
whu'li  tlu-y  made  us  pay  ten  times  their  value.  1  buy 
Bonie  bananas.  '•  How  I'nueliV"  I  said  to  her.  "  Fitty 
eents,"  she  answered  me.  I  giv-  her  a  dollar  note,  wln<-h 
she  returns  to  mo,  ]n-eterring  not  to  sell  to  taking  i>aper. 

The  smi  is  Lurning  hot.  ^Ve  enter,  while  waitmg  the 
dej.arture  of  the  train,  the  ^Toward  Hotel,  kept  hy  Mrs. 
Smith,  an  Ameriean.  Unfortunately  for  me,  there  is  a 
piano  in  the  lar-re  hall.  The  ])assengers  assemble  and  toree 
me  to  yilay.  Tl'ie  instrument  is  from  the  factory  of  Kaven 
k  Baeon,  of  Xew  York;  it  numbers  many  lustres,  an(l  one 
lives  fast  under  the  tropics.-  The  strings  havcMiot  resisted 
the  climate.  Some  low  notes  remain.  I  utilize  them  by 
plavino-  a  semblance  of  my  '13anjo,'  and  clear  out. 

the'  train  leaves.  It  is  full.  Tlie  road  is  lined  Avitli 
thick  junudes  of  mangles,  bind-weed,  ba.iiboos,  and  palms. 
Sometimes  the  road  widens :  then  we  perceive  one  or  two 
farmers' huts.  Their  architecture  is  primitive:  there  are 
four  beams,  on  Avhich  is  i.laced;  at  four  or  five  feet  from 
the  earth,  a  roofing  of  palm-leaves.  The  soil  around  the 
cabin  is  still  black  fnmi  the  fire,  which,  by  Inirning  the 
forest,  has  opened  a  clearing  in  the  midst  of  this  chaos  of 
vegetatii>n,  which  grows  so  rapidly  in  this  warm  and 
humid  soil. 

The  crossing  is  made  from  ocean  to  ocean  m  two  hours 
and  a  half.  We  are  running  alongside  of  a  pretty  little 
river.  Six  t)"clock  in  the  afternoon.  Arrived  at  I'anama. 
Salvo  Atlanric!  (Jarrison  in  full  dress ;  six  negroes  and 
one  mulatto  under  arms  formed  in  line  near  the  wharf. 
^Vc  embark  in  great  confusion  on  a  boat  which  transjiorts 
us  to  the  steamer,  Avhich  is  two  or  three  miles  out  at 
sea.  The  city  of  Panama,  proper,  extends  for  some  dis- 
tance. The  "houses  are  of  Snanish  architecture,  heavy, 
massive,  and  square,  which  the  laziness  of  the  inhabitants 
leave  to  fall  in  ruins.  An  Americati  resident  assures  me 
that  ten  houses  have  not  been  built  since  the  departure  ot 
the  Siianianb .  Two  clock  towers  overlook  the  city  ;  it  is 
the  cathedral.  It  is  as  dilapidated  as  the  rest.  The  roof 
])crmits  the  rain  to  pass  through.  The  statues  of  the  samts 
in  the  interior,  of  painted  wood,  arc  rotten  and  worm-eaten. 


ISLE  OF  PJJARLS. 


i)ii\ 


fcnng  iiB  ill  poor 
.  Honio  cigars,  tor 
c'ir  value.     1  Imy 

to  her.  "  Fifty 
lollar  note,  which 
)  taking  pajtcr. 
ivhile  waiting  the 
tcl,  Iccpt  Ity'Mrs. 
>r  inc,  there  is  a 
issonible  and  force 

factory  of  Kaven 
ly  histres,  and  one 

have  )iot  resisted 
I  utilize  them  by 
clear  out. 
oad  is  lined  Avith 
nboos,  and  palms, 
rceive  one  or  two 
mitivc:  there  are 

or  five  feet  from 
lie  soil  around  the 
■h,  hy  burning  the 
^t  of  this  chaos  of 
1   this   warm   and 

icean  in  two  hours 
i  of  a  pretty  little 
rrived  at  I'anaina. 
5 ;  six  negroes  anil 
le  near  the  wharf. 
,t  which  transports 
liree  miles  out  at 
LMids  for  some  dis- 
L-chitecture,  heavy, 
of  the  inhabitants 
•esident  assures  me 
•e  the  de}>artare  ot 
ook  the  city  ;  it  is 
;he  rest.  The  roof 
<tatues  of  the  saints 
en  and  worm-eaten. 


The  doors  are  oft'  their  liinges,  and  hang  on  one  side  at  the 
entrance  of  the  church. 

An  adroit  prestidigitateur,  1  was  ti>ld,  found  tiie  means 
of  di'awing  four  or  live  hundred  dollars  last  >vcck  from  this 
miscralde  borough,  lie  announced  two  representations  in 
the  following  style: — 

"Homage of  tlie a!l-l'owerful  Devil."     Mr. will  give 

two  representations  in  miitjio,  the  product  of  which,  alter 
deducting  all  expenses,  will  be  consecrated  to  repairing  tbe 
cathedral  rool",and  making  new  doors.  The  hall  wasiilU'd. 
The  rei'eii its  were  eight  hundred  dollars,  of  which  the  devil 
(or  his  disciple)  took  one-half  under  jiretext  of  expenses. 
Some  one  assured  me  that  wax-lights  are  wanting  for  the 
service  of  religion,  and  that  there  is  no  money  to  buy  them. 
Apathy,  lazii'ie.ss,  and  liltii  every:,here ;  nol)ody  is  willing 
to  work.  "When  their  houses  (built  by  ti'c  Spaniards  whom 
they  execrate,  and  to  whom  nevertheless  they  owe  the  little 
civilization  that  remains  to  them)  iidl  into  ruins,  they  prop 
them  ui»  with  planks  or  build  them  up  again  as  well  as  tiny- 
can  ;  they  stop  up  the  ga^is  with  stones,  which  they  take 
from  the"  wall  that  encircles  the  town,  arid  which  to-ilay  is 
everywhere  tumlding  down  under  the  double  attack  of  time 
and  of  the  wretched  builders  who  have  made  a  (piarry 
of  it. 

On  board  the  steamer  Constitution.  A  splendid  steamer, 
which  makes  a  still  greater  contrast  Avith  that  nut-shell — 
the  Ariel — wliicli  we  have  just  left.  Th<>  heat  is  excessive, 
and  produces  a  malaise,  Avhicli  we  feel  doubly  fromthe  ab- 
Beuee  of  ice.  Here,  as  on  the  Ariel,  the  ANiiter  is  luke- 
varm.  "We  have  to  pay  twenty-tlve  cents  extra  fir  a  lew 
small  pieces  of  ice,  and  again  the  bar  has  to  be  closed,  like 
last  evening,  at  ten  o'clock. 

A  pcarrtishery  exists  on  a  small  island  (Isle  of  Pearls) 
one  mile  from  the  coast;  few  are  now  found,  nevertheless 
lately  a  pearl  was  fished  up  which  was  sold  i'or  eight  thou- 
sand dollars  to  the  Prince  of  AVales.  The  fishery  has  be- 
come dangerous  on  aeco.mt  of  the  number  and  daring  of 
the  sharks  which  are  found  swimming  close  in  to  shore. 

I  have  said  that  the  Constitution  is  the  finest  steamer 
that  I  have  yet  seen,  but  I  am  not  on  that  account  willing 


Ji 


352 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


to  say  that  there  nu^^it  not  bo  many  improvement^  in  vari- 
ous things  which  concern  the  interior. 

April  14. 

I  have  not  slept  for  three  days.     I  nm  not  in  Califnrnia, 
and   I  have  ah-eady  a  foretaste  of  what  the^contests  are  a 
prLs  of 'squatter^"  rights  and  theories      My  body  it  ap- 
pears was  in  the  possession  of  a  company  of  squatters,  who, 
when  1  wished  to  estal>lisli  myself,  were  in  t.dl  activity,  an< 
Imve  <lefended  inch  by  uidi  their  ground,  an.    have  chased 
e  away.     The  mos.,uitoes  of  Cuba,  and  ot  the  swainps  of 
Louisiana,  are  certainly  disagreeable,  bm  there  is  ^""H-thmg 
bold  in  their  attack  and  even  m  their  deicat ;  there  i^  mmuo- 
thin.r  in  their  little  trumpeting  which  comniaiuls  respect, 
secMnin-  to  Bav,"lhTo  I  am,  defend  ^y^ourselt ; 'but  these 
smdl  obscure  V/impires-these  'B  flats''-as  <.ne  of  my  a.ly 
friends  music-ally  c-alls  them,  are  hateful  ^^> 'f '  l^^'^f  ^     I 
crawl  silentlv  out  of  their  dens  and  proht  bv  the  darkness 
to  accomplish  on  their  sleeping  victims  their  sanguinary 

""""'have  respeetfullv  su-gested  that  pei-haps  cleanliness 
mi-ht  arrive  at  a  satisfactory  result  aganist  the  mvasions 
of  these  pioneers,  but  the  steward  a  mulatto  belongs  to  the 
genus  grandiloquent,  species  msolent,  and  I  draw  l'^^'-  ^^  " 
fused  fbr  having  disturbed  the  serenity  ot  lus  august  tem- 

^'^Thislloes  not  badlv  resemble  the  hotel  at  St.  Louis,  Avhicli 
has  ma-nificent  corddors,  but  n(.thing  to  hear  them  with  in 
whiter: when  the  thermometer  pomts  to  the  cold  ot  bibeiia. 
Here  is  a  saloon  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  and  splen- 
did in  every  way.  No  ice-water,  the  first  tlimg  necessary 
for  -ui  American.  Gildings  all  an.und,  but  l.ed-bugs  (13 
Ss^Ve'where.  An  hmir  aiid  a  half  at  biMe  to  ea^^  no- 
thing good;  abundance  of  meat  and  vegetables,  all  bauly 

'"''ate\lull  monotony  of  the  life  on  board  continues  to 
unfold  slowly  and  heavily  <hiy  by  dav  under  the  beat  o 
an  atmosphcVe  like  a  lea<l  foun.lry,  like  a  benumbed  boa 
Blowlv  unfolding  his  rings  to  the  perpendicular  rays  of  an 
African  sun.  The  sun  cooks  us,  roasts  us  niclts  us,  and 
reddens  us;  hi  the  bhudc  it  is  a  hot  air  bath,  m  the  sun  a 


THE  SEW  niilDE. 


Oiii 


'ovementf  in  van- 
April  14. 

not  in  (  alifornia, 
the  t'ontosts  are  & 
.     My  body  it  ap- 
if '  sfiuatters,'  wIk^ 
1  full  artivity,an(l 
I,  and  have  cliased 
of  tlie  swamps  of 
there  is  something 
.'at ;  then;  is  some- 
•onnnands  ves|)eet, 
lurself;"'  but  these 
-as  one  of  my  lady 
o  me,  because  they 
tit  liy  the  dai'l<;ness 
■i  tlieir  sanguinary 

perhaps  cleanliness 
jainst  the  invasions 
iatto,  belongs  to  the 
d  I  (Inuv  back  eon- 
of  his  august  tem- 

at  St.  Louis,  which 
0  hear  them  with  hi 

the  cold  of  Siberia, 
■eet  long,  and  splen- 
irst  tliiuii  necessary 
(1,  but  l)ed-bugs  (B 
If  at  table  to  eat  no- 
-egetables,  all  badly 

board  continues  to 
r  mider  the  heat  of 
ke  a  bcmnnl)ed  Itoa 
endicular  rays  of  an 
Is  us,  melts  us,  and 
.r  bath,  in  the  sun  a 


shrivelling.  For  fourteen  hours  in  the  day  we  are  panting, 
and  every  moment  fi-ightened  at  seeing  our  sweat  stream- 
ing lest  we  siiould  be  turned  to  a  fountain.  Tiie  night 
succeeds  the  sun  with  all  the  s])leudours  of  tin-  firmament 
and  the  [)li()sphorescent  strcannugs  of  the  sea,  but  there  is 
no  breeze.  Whilst  we  are  gasping,  sutfocating,  for  want 
of  air,  !)reatliiiig  paiid"idly  like  a  stranded  fish  on  the 
beach,  I  am  tempted  to  cry  out  as  at  the  Lindcll  Hotel, 
"For  mercy's  sake  less  display  and  more  comfort.  Fewer 
stars  and  a  little  more  breeze!  some  airl  some  air!  some 
air !  I  sidibcate !  1*' 

Sunday,  April  16. 

The  Episcopal  service  is  read  by  the  purser — the  ride  on 
board  limits  its  duration  to  forty  minutes.  A  reverend  had 
ottered  his  services,  but  the  I'orty  nunutes'  clause  seemed 
like  an  attack  u[ion  his  dignity  and  ho  retired. 

The  new  bride  appears  the  oftenest  possible  where  her 
husband  is  not,  in  which  the  gigantic  proportions  of  the 
steamer  wonderfully  assist  her.  There  would  be  much 
to  write  al)Oiit  humanity  such  as  it  appears  on  board. 
Sympathies  and  anti[»athies,  attractions  and  repulsions 
have  time  to  manifest  themselvos.  Passengers  find  their 
level  as  the  dull  calm  after  the  horrors  of  a  storm.  Our 
singers  (like  all  those  who  make  merchandise  of  music) 
arc  already  (luarrelling.  To  establish  harmony  among 
nnisicians  is  as  impossible  as  to  find  an  Irish  immigrant 
who  v»'ould  refuse  to  take  from  you  a  glass  of  whiskey,  or 
a  AVestern  man  wlio  would  ask  pardon  for  treading  on 
your  toes. 

Our  captain,  a  fine  old  follow,  who  weighs  three  hundred 
pounds,  evidently  likes  his  dinner;  he  keeps  us  an  hour 
and  a  half  at  table.  When  one,  in  a  small  comjiany  of 
five  or  six  friends  around  a  well-served  table,  after  having 
dined  well,  stojis  to  taste  the'  dessert  and  under  the  intlii- 
ence  of  the  delicious  letliargy  which  accompanies  a  good 
digestion,  in  taking  a  glass  of  wine,  prolongs  the  time 
by  talking,  nothing  is  more  sensible;  but  after  having 
swallowed  with  a  grimace  some  i'vw  spoonfuls  of  peii]iered 
hot   water,   after   having    courageously   wrestled   with   a 


I 


3.U 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


],iecc'  of  ■icof  hard  as  ])ono,  one  is  ooiidoiiinod  to  iiitcrl'idos 
ol'  twi'iity  inimitc's  betwwu  wu-h  course,  and  that  at  a  table 
laid  tor  two  hundred  persons,  in  the  midst  of  a  tU'afening 
niiroar,  with  an  atmosphere  lailened  with  the  conihined 
va]>ours  of  two  huiuhvd  ]ilates  of  hot  water  and  hwt 
leather,  it  is  more  than  any  one  tdiould  reipiire  from  the 
most  induliient  voyaijer. 

1  have  fortunati'ly  taken  the  hahit  of  goins;  on  deck 
between  eaeh  course.  I  have  for  this  purpose  a  large  book, 
a  ueographieal  dictionary,  which  from  its  shape  gives  me 
a  high  degree  of  respectability  among  many  pen^-'is  who 
think  that  it  is  a  Uible. 

They  arc  serving  the  jjcppered  hot  Avater.  Five  mmutes. 
I  iio  up  on  deck  and  read  for  half  an  hour. 

^Xeat's  leather.  Fifteen  nunutes.  Three  tini-s  that  ior 
the  soup,  the  process  of  deglutition  by  mastication  bchig  at 
least  seveuty-tivc  degrees  more  difficult  than  ^;at  l)y 
in"-urii-itation.  Half  an  hour  on  the  deck  to_  )\;a  I.  AVe 
mnv  then  have  disposed  of  an  hour,  fiftecii  minutes  addi- 
tional made  to  it,  now  comes  the  curry  which  takes  a  half 
an  hour  to  serve,  etc.  etc. 

The  young  foreigner  (German)  having  coi  imued  more 
and   more  to  avoid"  the  presence  of  her  husbiind  is,  acci- 
dentally it  apiiears,  often  found  in  thi,»  "onipa..     d"  another 
)assenger.     The  husband,  Avho  has  soi;  o  notions  about  tlie 
loneymoou  which  his  young  wW'o  does  not  t-have   in,  is 
leard  this  e\oning  •■■    make  threats  of  a  revolver.     Shall 
we  have  a  drami^  j\\  iAu\"d\ 

April  19. 

Acapuleo  (Mexico)  is  in  sight.  After  having  doubled 
a  lartre  rock  the  city(?),  some  huts  whose  roofs  are  covered 
Avith^palm  trees,  presents  itself  to  our  view.  Seated  at  the 
bottom  of  a  pretty  little  bay  on  the  edge  of  the  beach, 
it  runs  back  to  the  Sierni  (a  mountam)  covered  with 
forests  and  thick  vegetation.  We  must  take  in  coal  here. 
Scarcely  have  we  anchored  when  we  see  ourselves  sur- 
rounded by  a  crowd  of  canoes  made  from  the  truidcs  ot 
trees  hollowed  out  bv  fire,  manne<l  by  Indians.  They  are 
clothed  in  white  lini'n  drawers;  their  heads  are  covered 
with   broad  -  brinnned    straw   hats.      They   sell   bananas, 


THE  LITTLE  ISDIAX  CIUL. 


855 


110(1  to  iiitorl'idos 
1(1  that  at  a  tabic 
8t  of  a  (loatbiiiuj; 
[\\  tlio  ((iiiiltiiH'd 
water  and  \n\'\' 
I'LHiuirc  from  the 

f  going  oil  (leek 
[X)se  a  large  book, 
s  shape  gives lae 
any  pen"'>>4  who 

>r.  Five  minutes. 
r. 

ree  tinn's  that  for 
istication  behig  at 
It  thaii  ^;at  by 
!ck  to  !..;(■  I.  AV_e 
'('U  minr.tes  addi- 
\\\u\\  takes  a  half 

g  CO)  ^inuod  more 
•  hus'inuid  is,  acei- 
ins|i;i.,.  >f  another 
notions  about  tlie 
5  not  share  in,  is 
a  revolver.     Shall 


April  19. 

er  having  doubled 
e  roofs  are  covered 
ew.  Seated  at  the 
>dge  of  the  beach, 
ain)  covered  with 
t  take  in  coal  here. 

see  ourselves  sur- 
i-oni  the  tnuiks  of 
Indians.     They  are 

heads  are  covered 
fliey    sell    bananas, 


ornuffos,  shell-work,  Avhito  corals.     I  was   lioping  tc>  huy 
soukT  pearls,  l)Ut  the  bay  is  so  hifested  by  sharks  (tintoi- 
reras)   for  some  time   that   the   lishing  has  become   very 
(liHicult.     Last   week   I   am   told   they   carried  off  eight 
imprudent  tishcrmeu.     On  land   the  beach  is  covered  with 
Indians,  some  s(iuatthig  before  ].ilcs  of  fruit,  otlering  to  us 
their  merchandise  in  broken  English;  others,  the  greater 
number,  jairsue   us,  offerim;    u^*   lu'cklacis    of    slu'lis    and 
coloured  glass  and  little  I'ms  for  the  head,  of  shell  and 
glass-work.      A.  little  Indian  girl  importunes  me,_  she  is 
"most  anxious  to  sell  me  some.     Expressive  and  singular 
style,  white  teeth,  olive  tint.     The  absence  ('f  clothes  (at 
least  thev  are  very  scanty)  is  more  than  compensate'    i)y 
the  abuiidance  of 'her  ban-  and  the  largeness  of  her  eyes. 
She  ends  by  sticking  a  pin  in   my  collar,  which  she  abs(v 
lutely  wishes  to  make  a  present  of  "al  hcnuoso  cavallero." 
The  proceeding  was  too  gracious  for  the  'cavallero'  not 
to  respond  to  it     I  gave  her  a  real.     Bad  lurk  t«_)  me.     In 
a   moment  I  Avas  surrounded  with  a   swarm  of   Indians, 
small,  larii-e,  old,  and   young,  vociferating,  disputing;  the 
possession  Of  me,  who  pounced  down  on  me  like  vultures 
on  a  lamb,  load  me  with  pins  which  they  stick  in  me  every 
where.     The  'hnuiioMo   ctivaUrro'  looks  like  a  pin-cushion. 
"The  Yankees  please  me,  I  love  blondes,  I  have  made  a 
present  to  the  cavallero,  the  cavallero  in  return  will  make 
me  one."     The  only  way  I  have  to  get  out  of  theham'.s 
of  my  brown  sirens  is  to  give  to  them  a  handful  of  reals, 
and  I  see  them  rush  on  another 'cavallero' and   stick  him 

also  full  of  pins.  , 

The  houses  are  miserable  huts,  the  ground  plots  ot  whicii 
are  c  vered  with  beaten  lime.     The  streets  are  not  paved, 
and  the  footway  for  the  foot  passengers,  two  feet  Avide,  rn- 
alouijside  the  houses  from  four  to  live  feet  abo\'e  the  K 

of  tlie  street.  .        n     .     i 

The  church,  to  all  appoaran(>c  most  miserable,  is  closed; 
I  am  sorry  for  it  for  1  Avish  to  see  it.  The  house  of  Mie 
'  I'adre'  is  pointed  out  to  me.  lie  sleeps,  his  d(miesti(  ...lis 
me,  a  vcrv  prettv  young  Indian  girl,  on  my  introducii  l;-  my- 
self Th(i  '  Tadi-e!'  a  fat  fellow,  is  in  his  hammock.  '<  re- 
ceives mcA^erv  iiolitely,  and  calls  the  sacristan  to  let  iiu  see 
tiie  church,    'it  (jtfers  nothing  remarkable  excejit  the  decay 


^1 


t« 


M 


856 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAXrST. 


into  which  its  altars,  its  doors,  and  its  statnos  are  fallen. 
Abovo  the  inuiL  of  a  saint  tliii'L!  is  a  iiapor  on  which  I 
road,  in  lari,^' writing  and  in  unaguiativo  Spanish  orthogni- 
]ihy,  "■  Evoiy  one  too  poorto  Imy  medicines  for  lierself  will 
be 'instantly  cnred  if  she  makes  her  devotions  Avith  sutKeient 
fervonr  before  this  image." 

Tn  one  corner,  snspended  to  the  wall,  is  a,  mnltitudeof 
ex-votos.  Tbese  are  tignres  of  wax  or  tin,  in  lead  or  gilt- 
iia[)er  (according  to  the  means  of  the  giver),  representing 
legs,  cj-es,  and  ears.  "When  they  are  suffering  from  some 
disease  the  devotees  suspend  belbre  the  imajo  or_  altar  of 
the  saint  oi'  their  pretV-rence,  a  fac-simile  of  ihe  siek  part, 
and  patiently  await  their  cure. 

Eveiywhere  tlie  hiage  of  idleness,  of  indiffercnoe,  of 
apatliy,  of  ignorance,  i.nd  of  tilth.  In  every  liouse  we  per- 
ceive women  lying  in  their  hanunocks,  or  men  indolently 
scpiattini;  do^\"n  or  extended  in  the  shade.  Everywhere 
inunobility.  Civilization  will  never  be  able  to  galvanize 
these  people  wliose  soul  is  buried  under  the  triple  layer  of 
torpor,  idleness,  anil  inertness. 

A  long  hut,  l)efore  wbi(;h  some  flint  guns  are  ranged  on 
a  rack,  rcjiresent.'  the  g  lard-house.  Ten  or  twelve  Indians, 
half-naked,  lying  on  their  face  around  a  pack  of  cards, 
are  playing.  "  AVMituiel,  lazily  leaning  on  his  gun,  follows 
the  play  eagerly  with  his  eyes. 

One  of  tlie  soldiers  asks  me  if  I  have  any  news  from 
"  los  Franceses."  "  Is  it  true  tinit  the  Emperor  is  obliged  to 
recall  his  troops?"  Is  the  Senor  an  Englishman?"  "Xo," 
I  tell  him, "  I  am  a  liussiau  ofiicer."  "Ah  1  the  Serior,"  sai  I  a 
sergeant  tomi'l'toently  to  me,  "wished  to  see  great  fighting. 
Don  IMcgu  Vlvarez'  (Avith  emphasis  as  one  wotild  speak  of 
the  ixreaf  Xapokvin)  will  teach  the  French  maimers.  He 
is  in  the  motmtains,  hi.?  son  connnands  here  in  his  absence. 
(Theii  with  idl  the  swagger  of  his  raee,  and  straightening 
himself  I'l*  into  a  theatrical  pose)  "  ^Ve  have  killed  more 
than  thicty  thousand  of  them  in  the  Sierra."  After  this 
-".eech  be  straightens  hin.self  like  a  bully  and  gazes  around 

»  V  ."{TO  Alvdivz,  an  old  T.iui.in,  is  for  tlio  Indian  Mexicans  of  the  Pncific 
■Khiil  NaiK'li'nii  was  for  tlio  "id  G\iard.  He  is  tlieir  Lod,  tlieir  l)eriu-ideal, 
tt/"ir  idol.  Tliis  old  -reneval,  who  is  eifrlity  years  old,  >,'ov(>rns  tlie  wliole 
Mexican  side  of  the  I'ac-iliu.  and  Iwasts  that  he  has  ntver  been  euiKiiiered. 


itnos  arc  falloii. 
ij»or  on  wliic'li  I 
liinisli  oi'tlK)i!;rii- 
Ibr  liersdf  will 
rf  -with  sufficient 

a  multitude  of 
in  k'iul  or  gilt-, 
r),  ropri'sontiiig 
ring  tVoiu  some 
liar  0  or  altar  of 
)f  the  sick  part, 

iiidiffercncc,  of 
y  house  we  [)cr- 
men  indolently 
0.  Everywhere 
Ae  to  galvanize 
e  triple  layer  of 

s  arc  ranged  on 

•  twelve  Indians, 

paek   of  cards, 

his  gun,  follows 

any  news  from 
eror  is  obliged  to 
hman?"  '^'Xo," 
he  Seiior,"  sai  1  a 
le  great  fighting. 

would  speak  of 
h  manners.  lie 
'  in  his  absence." 
id  straightening 
ave  killed  more 
ra."  After  this 
nd  gazes  arouutl 

Bxieans  of  tho  Pncifio 
(1(1,  their  bcriu-idcnl, 
(1,  govcnirt  tlii>  wiidlo 
jviT  beon  (.'uiKjiioiod. 


BCT  OXE  XAT/')X—nr-M.\\/TY. 


3o7 


liini  to   receive   the  tokens  of  admiration — dui'  to  native 
lici'oism. 

The  Louisiana  Hotel  is  a  house  of  less  miserable  ajipt'ar- 
ance  than  the  others.  The  landlord  is  a  fat  man  who  is  a 
Frenchman,  not  to  be  mistaken  if  one  may  judge  by  this 
speech,  which  he  addressed  to  the  Indians  lying  befori'  his 
doors. 

"  Sacre  tas  do  canaille  voulez  vous  bien  me  ficher  le 
Camp,"  and  for  a  iteroration  he  administered,  right  and  left, 
some  blows  to  a  group  of  young  pin  merchants,  who  had 
again  discovered  me  and  hoped  to  recommence  their  opera- 
tions on  the  '  cava  Hero.' 

"You  arc  a  Frenchman,  sir,"  I  say  to  him. 

"Xo,  sir  (with  emphasis),  I  am  from  Xew  Orleans." 

The  love  of  country  is  a  prejudice  I  will  admit,  I  even 
know  it. 

The  travellers'  life,  which  I  have  led,  has  singularly  en- 
larged the  circle  of  those  whom  I  regard  as  compatriots. 

From  seeing  men  under  every  form  in  all  latitudes  re- 
semble each  other,  though  changed  in  name,  1  iiave  little 
by  little  arrived  at  recognizing  that  there  is  really  but  one 
nation — humanity;  but  one  country — the  globe;  but  one 
code,  that  of  Justice  and  morality.  Nevertheless,  the  memo- 
ries of  our  first  years,  our  first  atl'ections,  live  at  the  bottom 
of  our  hearts,  and  this  old  tavern-keej'cr  saying  to  me  in 
this  obscure  hole  on  the  coast  of  the  I'acific,  '"I  am  tVom 
Xew  Orleans,"  awakening  all  at  once  my  sleeping  memo- 
ries, in  a  moment  became  a  friend. 

"I  also,"  I  said  to  him,  "am  from  Xew  Orleans."  An  ac- 
(piaintance  was  quickly  made.  He  recounted  to  me  all  his 
afiiiiiv,  las  life,  etc.  lie  kept  a  restaurant  at  Lake  I'on- 
ohartrain. 

"  What  men  these  Creoles  are !  Another  thing  from  your 
Yankees'."  (Here  he  gave  way  to  his  hatred  for  the  Yan- 
kees.) 

Tlie  poor  man  hated  the  Xorth  without  being  acquainted^ 
witli  it.  After  having  asked  me  the  news  about  nian\'  of 
the  best  known  people  of  Xew  Orleans,  he  spoke  to  me  of 
Mor]iliy,  the  chess-player. 

"There  is  glory  for  Louisiana!  Ihit  from  his  chililhood 
he  showed  what'  he  would  be  some  da  v.     lie  is  not  like 


IT 

ii 

"I 


k 


858 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 


nnotlior  little  i^ro.litjy,  Gottsclmlk,  who  i.roiniso(l;aarvl- 
L.iis  tl.ii.-s,  and  whose  father  sent  him  to  Kumpe  lu  hopes 
of  makiir--  a  i,nvat  musician  of  him.  Nohody  has  hear. I 
imvthinsi  more  sai.l  ahout  him.  What  has  he.'ome  ..  h.m  t 
1  ;.(,nfess  that  1  f.mnd  myself  a  little  emharrasse.l  in  an- 
flwerin.--  this  iniestion.  My  self-esteem  was  e(msi.1erahly 
hurt  1  tol.l  him  the  little  j.ro(litr,V  was  still  a  inanist,  aiKl 
that'without  havii.o-  preeisefy  realized  the  expeetatKnis  ot 
his  eountrymenj.e  had  notwithstanding  eontmncd  to  nnoiIv 

''^''iris"i.ossihle,  hut  I  have  never  heard  him  ^pokeii  of,'' 
replied  the  old  man,  who  evidently  had  a  grudge  against 
th'   infant  prodigy,  who  had  disapi.ointetl  the  hopes  ot  his 

1  tat  riot  ie  love.  ^         ,  .    ,        , 

We  have  an  excellent  dinner,  home  hir.ls,  whose  names 
I  for.a't,  as  fat  as  ortolans.  I  reeommciul  this  ol<l  tavern- 
keeper  to  travellers.  At  tahlo  wc  are  waited  on  hy  a  tun 
waiter  in  shirt  sleeves,  wli^se  hody,  squeezed  at  the  w  al^ 
by  a  leather  hand,  is  surmounted  by  a  countenanee  wrmkle.l 
into  fol.ls,  set  otf  by  Umg,  ilat  loeks  ot  gray  ]^^  Jj^^ 
effect  of  this  mummy-like  eountenanee  ona  l)od>  eiglityn 
years  old  is  impossible  to  describe.  "Monsieur  is  trom  >ew 
Orleans,"  said  this  diso-uised  old  man,  ui  a  falsetto  voice  wi  h 
a  French  lisp,  in  smartly  takin-  away  Irom  ine  my  l.'^^te  a 
prettv  town  which  has  consoled  me  tor  leaving  1  aris.  .\li. 
Paris',  sir,  my  youth,  my  well-formed  leg,  and  my  arm  so 
.iurnp,  as  the'sono.  .ay^.  If  it  was  not  for  M"  uushand  I 
shoulil  never  work  for-  these  Mexican  savages.^  I  then  un- 
derstood that  this  young  sexagenarian  waiter  is  the  wite  ot 
my  host,  who,  through  an  cxe-ss  of  caution,  more  preten- 
tious thLu  justifiable,  had  renoimeed  (these  Mexicans  are 
such  sava"-es)  the  dress  of  her  sex. 

Whilst" ve  are  dining,  Don  Juan  Alvarez,  the  son  of  the 
old   guerrilla,  a.ul  the  actual  governor,  I'^'^^^^'^-.^^'jtl'     'i^ 
taniily.     They  are  going  to_  visit  mir  steamer     ,^Se     n 
is  an' Indian  with   insigmhcant  teatures.     lis  \m>  -"k 
^Siter  carry  umbrella^,  wear  silk  dresses,  gold  cluuns  and 
necklaces,  ear-rings,  brooches  rmgs,enibr.ndered  sWa^^^^^^^ 

criiu)lines  They  walk  with  all  tlie  stittness  ot  Imi'f'^ 
wiTh  their  Sunday  clothes  on,  ridiculously  .inmblod  to- 
gether ;  full  of  pride  in  parading  themselves  in  these  >upei- 


I 


•ornised  Tiiarvol- 
Kurojio  ill  li('|K's 
iluxly  luw  hriinl 
n'comc  of  liiiu't"' 
InUTiissc'd  ill  iin- 
as  ('()nsi(U'ral)ly 
ill  a  iiianist,  and 
cxiK'ctatidiis  of 
utiimcd  to  work 

him  fjpokcn  of,"' 
I  grudgo  against 
the  hopos  of  his 

■ds,  Avhoso  nanios 
this  old  tavern- 
tod  on  hy  a  thin 
ozod  at  tho  waist 
tcnanc'O  wriukk'tl 
gray  hair.  The 
I'a  hody  eiglitccn 
lieiir  is  from  Xew 
alst'tto  voice  with 
1  me  my  plate,  "a 
ving  I'aris.  Ah! 
,  and  my  arm  so 

for  M"  UUSBANl)   I 

iges."  I  then  un- 
iter  is  tho  wife  of 
ion,  more  preteii- 
ese  Mexicans  are 

oz,  the  son  of  the 
passes  with  his 
luier.  ])on  J  nan 
5.  His  wife  and 
s,  gold  chains  and 
)idere(l  shoes,  and 
ffness  of  Indians 
uslv  innibled  to- 
'es  m  tlxese  super- 


DEMii  or  f.i.xcof.y. 


3oU 


anniiated  fashions,  which  must  have  had  tlicir  day  aiiKMig 
the  hiuksters  of  the  temple;  tliey  attain  altogetlier  the 
heiiiht  of  the  grotes(pie  wiien  they  tliink  to  attain  the  sum- 
mit of  I'arisiiiii  elegance. 

1  ill  as  Aeapulco  is,  it  acts  as  an  agreeable  diversuMi  to 
the  monotony  of  the  ship,  and  it  is  not  witliout  regret  that 
we  slowly  return,  and  soon  the  huge  rock  hehind  which  we 
are  disapiK'aring  coiici-als  from  our  eyes  the  miserahle  huts, 
the  church, and  even  the  little  dismantled  Sj.anisli  fort  which 
defends  ('.')  Acapnli-o,  and  here  we  are  agaui  iihmged  aiU'W 
ill  the  dull  routine  of  the  steamer. 

April  23. 

A  steamer  in  sight!  It  is  the  Golden  City,  wliich  left 
San  Francisco  two  days  ag<->.  The  captain  comes  on  hoard, 
and,  in  the  midst  of  questions  from  all  the  i)assengers  that 
ciii'umi)er  the  staircase,  hurls  these  words  like  tliimderholts, 
"  Kichmond  is  taken,"  "Lee  has  surrendered,"  "  JJncoln  has 
been  assassinated." 

The  news,  more  or  less  true,  wliich  has  been  transmitti'd 
to  us  since  the  commencement  of  the  \air,  has  reiidi'red  us 
incrediihais.  Nothing  is  more  prohaljle  than  that  Lee  has 
surrendered,  since,  on  the  morning  of  our  departure  from 
New  York,  the  news  of  the  taking  of  Petershurg  was  con- 
iinued,  hut  the  death  of  Lincoln!  Some  dispute  i'or  the 
paiiers;  a  passenger  has  mounted  in  the  rigging,  iind  has 
been  requested  to'  read  with  a  loud  voice.  Alas!  There  is 
no  longer  aiiv  doul)t  Lincoln  is  di'ad.  AYe  do  not  know 
the  de'Uiils  of  the  horriitle  outrage— the  name  only  of  the 
assassin  is  mentioned— Wilkes  Booth.  I  remember  of  hav- 
ing seen  him  jilay  a  year  ago  at  e'leveland.  I  was  struck 
at'^that  time  with  the  beauty  of  his  features,  and  at  the 
same  time  l)y  a  sinister  ex[)ressi'>ii  of  his  countenance.  I 
would  even  say  that  he  hacl  somethhig  deadly  in  his  look. 
A  literary  lady  among  my  friends  who  knew  him  then, 
told  me  tiiat  he  had  as  much  natural  talent  for  the  stage  as 
his  brother  Kdwin,  but  that  his  violent  and  fantastic  char- 
acter would  not  permii  him  to  jiolish  the  natural  brutality 
of  his  manners  any  more  than  to  restrain  the  fury  of  his 
acting  within  the  (U-dained  limits  of  art. 

I  never  recollect  having  seen  a  more  atlecting  sight  than 


800 


yOTKS  OF  A  riASlST. 


that  „r.<cM,tc..l  l.v  tlH.  hnnu.n>.  .Uvk  <.f  tlu"  Coii.ti  utum. 

T  1.1...: tiH-  -..  .vsi.K.,..K.Mt  tiu.  sou ;«;;"'»;;' 

,u  tmv  i.-n.s  to  s.nilo  ahovo  our  l.ra.  s,   o  .•..hUt  tlu.  n  .  - 

t  ml  HH  ...... C:  us.     StntMuv  ;u..l  inoxphmM.-  tlin,-'.!      M-o 

m.n  1.<.H0  who  slunv  th.  hast  .vmvts      A.onn.l  n.. 

n        i  m  vs  ..f  tlu.  s..a.iK-n  Icnvc-  tho  l.a.lly  .Ih.r.l  t.a.v> 

,  i      irt  Imn.ls,  wcvi..  as  if  hv  l.a.ljust  lost  a  atlH.;.     Al 

^,,  !,  .Munsurahlr  i,n- .  f.     The  wonu-i.,  att.r  htivn.g  sh..! 

XVt        .a.tivi.sc.f  thc.assassi,,,an.l  tlir  ....■a..^^....l.l'0«''l 
1  ;i  h,  .a v.  IWr  a  lonj^  tin.e  sus,.     u.l  that  the  woman 

?l.    weens  so  easily  tor  so  n.any  su,K.rtl..al  p-.ets,  ,.oss^.jjvs 
y  l^s  sensihility  than  n.an.     Sl.e  has  her  .;:'•;<'  ;^^ 
K     mroxysu.sof  enthusiasm  or  i.f  •Iv^l'l'"'' ^^^'^   ^'"      ^ 
or  mi  bound  to  the  heights  of  ]-l'"^:  ^'"Vv^Jer 

sultan  her  there.     These  are  irrational  nui.ulses,h3''teiKal 
' riJi   vvliieh  lose  in  depth  what  they  pun  m  surtaee 

In  t   e  l.reson.'e  of  a  unvat  sentiment  they  are  m  enoi, 
the    •       1     le    HI  I  man,  whose  sensibility  for  sn.all  thn.gs 

':^.il';nld:r  the  envelope  of  hi.  }>ffyC;^^:^}:::^X 
in  the  nresenei.  of  an  immense  p'let,  of  soleum  »l|'^l;''  '  /^ 
H  ,  c^na  •V,an.lheeoniesa-aia  the  n.aster,not  only  thro  >gl; 
.  r<  e  of  muscle,  h.it  through  the  greatness  o  In^  -  u^- 
AV.unan  has  more  fre.iueutly  the  p.-etry  ot  word«  than  ot 

ideas. 

April  24,  morning. 

Wo  arc  to  have  a  meeting 'on  hoard  to  give  <>«;;• ''''l^^- 
prelion  to  the  sentiments  of  grief  whieh,  with  ^n.r^ ^^ 
S    three  exeepti,.ns,  are  felt  hy  all  the  passenger  .     1  W 

;  1  w  fh  merelv  one  or  two  cxeeptions,  because  a  la  I}, 
^te^lnirl^o' Secessionist,  has\.i.hed  |-  toj|;yt^^ 
ness  of  t'he  respect  due  to  huiaamty  so  hir  ««  to  nal  >  e 
assassination  clf  Lincoln  as  a  jndgnu-nt  i.-mn  '  "^  ^-J^'^^  ;^ 
or  two  other  female  parrots  (a  speces  ot  ^^  '  ^^^^  ^j  ^;^|  ^  ^^^ 
aredvin"  for  sorrow  in  not  havmgp.it  on  then  I'.^t  ^^^w 
diiss  ,  who  are  exclaiming,  witli  philosophic,  protun.hty, 
"  that  Lhicola  must  have  died  .oojrv  or  later . 


liESOUITloSS  OS  DEATH  OF  r./\ror..\. 


n»n 


ilic  Constitution, 
i  nvi\  is  calm,  all 
)  ri'iidiT  tlu'  ion- 
ic stillness  of  all 
l.lc  thinjr'.l    Tlic 
vts.     Aronml  nic 
\-  ctliiccd  t  races  (_)t' 
!•  ill  u  coniiT,  liirt 
|,.st  a  fathiT.     All 
idcr  ll>c  wciirlit  ol' 
after  having  nhed 
iiinion  coirn'ctnreH 
c  means  cmi'loyed 
I  that  the  woman, 
111  trriefs,  possi'sses 
1-^  her  ner\ ous  tits, 
[lair,  which  carrits 
■liniT,  hut  does  not 
mimlses,  hysterical 
[ill  in  surtiice. 
:  they  are  interior, 
ty  f(n-  small  things 
ty,  taki's  upon  him 
solenm  despair,  his 
>r,not  only  through 
•eatness  of  his  sold, 
y  of  words  than  of 

April  24,  morning. 
I  to  give  ofHcial  ex- 
■h,  with  merely  two 
passengers.     1  have 
ons,  hecause  a  lady, 
.islicd  her  forgetful- 
far  as  to  (jualify  the 
from  God  ;  inid  one 
of  female  dolls,  who 
ut  on  their  last  new 
losophic  profundity, 
)V  lakt 


r" 


Kvi'iiinij. 

The  mcetini.',  presided  over  hy  Judge  Field  of  the 
Supreme  Court  of  the  I'nited  States,  have  voted  resohitions 
which  accord  with  our  feelings  of  lidclity  to  the  govi'ru- 
ment,  of  respi'ct  for  the  meniovy  of  the  gi-cat  and  good 
l/nicoln,  and  of  horror  for  the  exccrahlc  act  which  has 
terminated  his  nnhle  and  lahorious  cari-er. 

Where  are  now  thoso  Irivojoiis  judgments  on  the  man 

whom    we   i\re    niug    for   to-day 'f       His    ugliness,    his 

awkward  jokes,  with  which  we  reproached  him: 

all  have  (!  sippci'i'ed  in  presence  ol"  the  majc-ty  ot'  death. 
Hi>  gri'atness,  his  honesty,  the  purity  of  that  giyat  heart, 
whiefi  !)oats  no  longer,  risi'  n]»  to-day,  and  in  their  resplen- 
dent railiancy  transligure  him  whom  we  called  the  "coiu- 
niDU  rail-splitter."  <)  Internal  I'owi'r  of  the  true  and  heau- 
tiful!  Yesterday  his  detractors  were  lidiculing  his  large 
iiands  without  gloves,  his  large  feet,  his  hhmtuess  ;  to-day 
this  type  whicli  we  fountl  grotcsipU'  appears  to  us  on  the 
threshold  '^f  immortalitv,  and  we  nnde^^t;uld  hy  the  uni- 
versality of  our  grief  what    future  generations  will  see  in 

him. 

After  the  meeting,  the  Italian  singers  who  are  on  hoard 
siiif  the  hynm  of  the  Hepnhlic,  which  1.  acconipany  on  the 
piano.  Miss  Adelaide  I'hillips  sings  with  electric  fei'ling  the 
patriotic  song,  'The  Star  Spanirlcd  IJanner.'  I  play  my 
]>ieeo, 'Union.'  The  enthusiasm  aroused  is  without  d<>uht 
less  owing  to  our  music  th)vii  to  the  actual  eir,eunistaiices. 

April  2.'). 

"We  shall  arrive  to-day,  the  captain  says.  Unfortunately 
the  fog  has  come  up,  and  we  are  ohliged  to  remain  (piiet 
until  ?t  disappears.  The  coast  hristlos  with  rocks,  and  it 
is  very  dangerous  to  approacli  when  tlio  weather  is  not 
clear.  A  general  disappointment.  Have  you  taken  notice 
at  the  theatre  of  the  precipitation  with  whicli  every  one 
leaves  his  seut  to  go  as  soon  as  the  i)ieee  draws  near  the 
end '(  The  same  perst.ns  who  for  two  hours  have  rem.iined 
motioide.-p  and  silent  in  their  seats  jostle  and  crowd  each^ 
other,  as  if  their  life  ^vas  hi  danger  if  they  were  accused  of 
beina:  in  the  hall  when  the  curtain  falla.  For  my  part,  I 
""   31 


f 


302 


yOTKS  OF  A  I'lASIST. 


lu.v,.  oft....  olHcrvr.!,  witl.o-.t    u...k..-.tm..li..,u'  it,  tj.o  im- 

rl.t;:.trai..-l.a.lmath....os,,,.u...^ 

1.  ..tln.r   iiixl  mem  to  tfV  w  .ohIiuU  Ih'  tlit.'  tlint  to  ji uii|> 
r         t  ;.      ut    I  •  ri^l<  -f  l-vaki..u  thri.- l.cnul  o.-  thou- 

\  .,'hav-u,.^  |.ati...tlv  o...huv.l  twc-..tv-t...n- .h.ys  .../.•-- 
i,,i;;lh'  t\'u  I.OH.-S  whi.h  wo  a.v  tonvj  to  pus.  uiotio.le.. 
,1  Few  mili'rt  In.iii  i)ort  hcvui  lusiippoitubk-  to  Uf, 

April  20. 

Vvvy  thirk  fog.   No  i.robuhUity  of  cvon  urrlvii.-  to-.hiy. 


ClIAl'TER  XXITI. 

April  27,  morning. 

TiiK  sky  is  i.hio  nm\  tho  aii-  is  lau-o.     \Vo  shall  be  at 
Sa,!  Fmncisco  to-lay.     Wc  soo  .lisv,.utly  th.  •'.o,..,t.n 
m      the  whole  coast.     The  steiUi.er  sl-.wly  a.lva.ices.        he 

ri;i;;i;.u:^.hnh...sdves...,K.tieaiivtoc^ 

Hi.rht.    We  aiv  e.ite.-i..tj  i..to  the  bay.      I  he  1'^''.,  tl       ... 
:i:tio,.,  a.-e  rowe..less  to  porfay  tl-^lf-;^';;;-;  j'    ^  V^; 
tule  which  is  opei.ed  to  our  eyes.     To  the  letl  tl.t    i*-"!^ 
i^    c^    he  i.u.u.,tai..s  tr.-a.b.ally  'l^-V'"  '  "'r/  1    nl 
S  o.   the  sho.v  e,.a...ellea  with  the  httle  ^v  '>  ;-' \-   ^  , 
the  villages.     The  eano..H,  na.Tow  passages  u he. e  tlu      •    t 
ete.'u.L^  takes  o.i  soi.ibiv  tii.ts ;  the  swelliiig  ot    he  hills, 
e,-eth.^vtlecti  the  s.n.  ou  the  ,..tehes  ot  veraure 

a,;  lui,To.-ea  a,.a  coloured  ^vith  the  ^^^^-^^^f^ 
n.hies  a.id  the  ii.u.ie.ise  azu.-e  vault  ot  a  sky  ike  .Naples, 
the  iiht  the  ^  Seal  Roek,'  f.-ow..i..g  se.itu.el  over  some 
a  us  of  the  beach,  and  on  whic-h  for  many  centu.ues  ec  ta m 
e.lln..ous  seals  have  estal,lisl.ed  the.r  4U.u1ers,wu.e.h^ 

lesshodies  we  distinguish  la.llv  s  eepu.g  or     >        "  ^^ ^'^^^^^^ 
Ki..antie  leeches  in  the  fissures  ot  the  rock.     11^'"^^''  V 
liio-h  blult;  the  'Clitt-  House'  overlooks  the  horizon,     liom 


I 


^ 


Kliiii:  it,  tlic   iin- 
iivf   imtU'iitlv   «'ii- 

iIk'  station,  l'>"*li 

tlK-  tiivt  to  .iiiiii|> 

iiir  lioail  Of  thoir 

iidilioii  (>i\  hoard. 

tour  tliiy^  ill  iro^^- 

to  jiiisrt  motioiilwd 

L"  to  Up>. 

April  26. 

on  urriviii;;  to-iluy. 


Arril  27,  morning. 

■0.     Wc  shall  ho  at 
ctly  the  iiiovintaiiirt 
w]y  ailvaiues.   _  TiK' 
Ivto  our  astoiiiHlu'd 
the  1'i.ii,  till'  iiiiaiii- 
k'lidour  of  the  Kiii'c- 
thc  left  the  deilivi- 
'iid,  and  at  last  are 
ittlc  white  houses  of 
ages  wIk'1'0  the  light 
.welling  of  the  hiH^, 
L'  patehes  of  verdtiro 
retlex  of  opals  and 
f  a  sky  liko  Naples, 
g  sentinel  over  sonio 
imy  centuries  eertain 
uiM-ters,  whose  sliajie- 
Uig  or  erawling  like 
roek.     IManted  on  a 
s  the  horizon.    From 


*>. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


l^|28 

men       HM^^M 

m 


21 
2.2 


1 


40 


2.0 


1.8 


11.25  ill  1.4   111.6 


6"     


m 


e 


n 


m. 


Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


m 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


THE  ''GOLDEN  GATE: 


3(33 


a  balcony,  many  jiersons  witli  long  spy-glasses  aiv  watclihig 
us  coming  in.  Tlio 'C'lirt"  House' is  six  miles  from  Sun 
Francisco,  and  is  a  rendezvous  for  ]>edestrians,  eJjuestrians, 
an<l  carriages.  They  go  there  to  eat  oAsters,  and  to  see  the 
seals  at  a  few  yards  from  the  beach  carelessly  enjoy  thcm- 
seb'-'s  without  being  frightened  at  the  approacli  of  the 
curious,  their  "security  never  having  been  troubled,  thanks 
to  a  local  ordinance  which  prohibits  any  harm  being  done 
to  them  under  penalty  of  a  tine. 

"We  cannot  yet  see  San  Francisco,  the  city  being  built  at 
the  bottom  of  the  bay,  and  the  latter  making  an  elbow. 
Fort  Alcatraz*  lifts  from  the  middle  of  a  little  island  in 
the  bay  its  gray  walls.  It  incloses  all  the  political  prisoners 
compromised  during  the  war,  and  those  accused  of  burning 
tlie  steamer  Panama.  Two  or  three  hundred  American 
soldiers  constitute  the  garrison  of  this  desolate  and  sterile 
rock,  on  which  there  is  not  a  drop  of  water  and  not  a  blade 
of  grass.  We  are  still  going  ahead!  AVe  aii'  turning  a 
promontory  on  our  right,  and  the  port  of  San  Francrsco 
opens  on  our  view. 

The  '  Golden  Gate,'  the  entrance  of  the  ba}',  surpasses 
m  magnificence  the  most  beautiful  sights  I  ha\-e  ever  seen. 
Kaples  and  Constantinople,  the  two  most  celebrated  bays, 
do  not  present  to  the  eye  a  more  imposing,  more  dazzling 
spectacle,  than  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  but  the  city  itself 
does  not  answer  from  the  port  to  the  idea  which  one  has 
formed  of  it.  We  see  only  sand-hills  with  scattered  houses 
of  mean  appearance.  The  port  is  animated,  a  forest  of 
masts  and  of  flags.  Clouds  of  smoke  which  are  es(!aping 
fromtheferry-boats,with  which  the  bay  is  covered, and  which 
are  ploughing  their  way,  in  every  sense,  give  life  to  the 
picture.  The  wharf  is  covered  with  an  eager  crowd.  We 
are  approaching  slowly.  Confusion  reigns  everywhere, 
particularly  on  board.  The  young  female  foreigner  profits 
by  the  absence  of  her  Imsband,  engaged  in  hunting  for  his 
trunks,  to  go  on  deck  to  make  a  passenger  explain  the  beau- 
ties of  the  landscape  to  her.     The  portei-s  have  already  in- 

'  The  name  of  Aleatraz— in  Spanish,  sea-bird— comes  undoubtedly 
from  tliB  imnifinse  number  oi"  these  birds  whicli  inhabit  it,  and  whose 
eggs,  r.  few  years  ago,  when  fowls  were  scarce  in  California,  furnished  a 
cousiderablu  branch  of  commerce. 


^ 


3G4 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


vu.lo<l  m  an.l  soi/..'<l  ui-on  our  trnnk«.     ll>e  cai.tain  on  the 
v,a(l.lk'-l)ox  is  "ivin.^  "..is  orders.     In  pro]K.rtum  Jis  we  ap- 
nnu'li  shore  we   afstinun.ish   the   erowd  whuh    is  ^.nuf 
toward  our  laudiu-  l-luee.     Frie.i.ls  arc  ree.-gni/.u.g  eaeh 
Sher.     "Hollo,  here  is  Jack!  how  do  3;ou  do  r    etc.  etc 
Everyhody  spoks  at  once.     The  horses  m  the  wag-ous  get 
frio-hteued  and  kick  up  their  heels.     The  enguie  roars;  the 
drfvers  cry  out.     Conversations  are  taking  phu-ehet ween 
tl  ,)se  on  the  shore  an.l  those  on  board.      Handkerchiets 
are  in  reouisitiou.     The  women  are  crying  for  .)oy,  and  tlie 
She  show  their  noses  energetically.    .All  the  passengers 
re-ard  each  other  as  if  they  were  unite,    in  the  closest 
frfendshii.     The  judge  himself  has  a  less  disagreeahle  air ! 
the  young  foreigner  i^s  in  the  arms  of  her  husban.l,  and  she 
does\iotappear^to  find  her  companion  very  jli^".^!-;?,^'^; ;  ^• 

There  is  a  great  commotion,  "  a  man  overboard  I  he  has 
fillen  between  the  wharf  and  the  vessel,  and  has  disappearea. 
An4t  of  the  crowd.  They  fish  h m  out.  He  is  a 
.vagoner ;  he  has  escaped  safely  with  only  a  cold  "^th 

Some  exchange  news,  others  recognize  each  othei-.       How 
are  you  at  honie'r'     Home,  that  magic  word  which  rnakes 
the  heart  of  the  most  doubting  beat.     Laugh  at  it  it  you 
will!     Call   it    a  weak   prejudice        Leave   ycmr  home 
Travel,  throw  yourself  into  the  whirlpool  ot     he  world 
s    nnder  by  throwing  to  the  four  wuids,  the  illusions  of 
yo^h^art,^ts  tendernesses,  its  raptures,  until  exhausted 
by  the  abu^e  or  bruises  of  life  it  dries  up  and,  insensib  e, 
henceforth  is  associated  with  your  being,  only  by  the  mate- 
r\n\  functions  it  is  called  upon  to  fill  in  tlie  animal  economy. 
1)0  you  say  it  is  dead?      Love,  ambition,  devotion,  the 
follies  of  youth,  lost  illusions  I  dead,  do  you  say  ?     lleason 
bis  taken  its  place.     Return,  again  to  your  home   there 
w  ere  your  first  loves  blossomed,  where  your  earliest  drenm 
were  ivalized.     Behold   once  m.u-e  the  place  where  you 
first  lisped  in  life,  spelled  love;  and  this  atrophied  heart, 
which  you  thought  was  dead,  will  awaken  as  trom  a  long 
lethar-y  to  salut'e,  with  all  the  ardour  of  its  first  emotions, 
as  the  nightingale  sings  in  the  laorning  the  aurora  o   spring, 
?he  memory  of  this  aurora  of  life-"  lilessed  home  1 

Foi  mvsilf  this  spectacle  saddens  me.     ^o  --  «'^--ai^ 
me,  and  those  I  love  I  have  lett  very  far  behind  me.     ihe 


Tlie  captain  on  the 
ro]K)rtion  ns  we  ap- 
,'(l  wliuli  irt  jjjoing 
c  rt'ci'gni/.ing  each 

you  doT'  etc.  etc. 
i  in  the  \vag<)ns  get 
ic  enghie  roars;  the 
king "phu-e  hetweeii 
I'd.  irandkerchiefs 
•ing  for  joy,  and  the 
All  the  passengers 
iiited  in  the  closest 
ess  disagreeahle  air! 
cr  hushand,  and  she 
very  disagreeahle. 

overhoardl"  he  has 
and  has  disai)peare(h 
him  out.  He  is  a 
•nly  a  cold  hath, 
e  each  other.  "  How 
c  word  which  makes 

Laugh  at  it  if  you 

Leave  your  home; 
Ipool  of  the  world; 
hids,  the  illusions  of 
ires,  until  exhausted 
es  up  and,  insensihle, 
ng,  only  hy  the  mate- 

tlie  animal  economy, 
hition,  devotion,  the 
lo  you  say  ?  Eeasou 
to  your  home,  there 
e  your  earliest  drenms 
the  place  where  you 

this  atrophied  heart, 
vaken  as  from  a  long 
r  of  its  first  emotions, 
g  the  aurora  of  si)ring, 
Blessed  home  1" 

me.  Xo  one  awaits 
'  far  hehind  me.     The 


CROWDS  HAVE  ONLY  IXSTIXCT. 


305 


Reverend  Mr.  Thomas,  one  of  the  passengers,  is  standing 
alongside  of  me.  "  Is  Gottschalk  on  hoard 'f"  criis  a  voice 
from  the  crowd.  "Here  he  is,"  replies  the  Keverend  Mr. 
Thomas,  pointing  me  out  to  the  crowd,  I  siihmit  to  this 
exhihition  with  regret.  My  looks,  considerahly  deterio- 
rated hy  sea-sickness,  present  the  most  wretched  appearance, 
and  otter  nothing  hut  what  is  disappointing  ti>  those  who 
always  associate  the  idea  of  u  celehrity  of  any  kind  with  a 
certain  i>hysical  majesty.  Of  over  one  hundred  persons  who 
know  my  name  without  ever  having  seen  me,  I  have  in- 
variahly  read  from  their  looks  that  they  were  (piite  disap- 
pointed in  tinding  me  thin  and  of  ordinary  height.  The 
frankest  contented  themselves  hy  saying,  "-Ah!  1  thought 
that  you  were  taller."  The  ancients  who,  without  uiider- 
standijig  anatomy,  made  such  irreproachahle  statues, 
oheyed  instinctively  a  natural  law  when  they  gave  so  little 
ex[>ression  to  their  physiognomy.  Form  always  seduces  the 
masses,  and  the  people  in  their  youth  hecome  enraptured 
with  the  form  to  the  exclusion  of  the  mimh 

The  elegant  Alcibiades  was  evidently  more  sym])athetic 
than  the  nat-nosed  Socrates,  and  the  advocates  of  I'hryne, 
who  took  from  ott"  her  her  tunic,  to  cause  her  to  be  acrpii'tted 
(elo([uent  peroration  which  carried  with  it  the  austere 
judges  of  the  areopagus),  were  decidedly  profound  philoso- 
j)hers.  Sappho  must  have  been  pretty.  Crowds  have  only 
nistinct ;  reason  is  awakened  oidy  hy  rctiection,  and  the 
crowd  never  reflects.  .  It  was  less  hy  genius  that  Peter  the 
Great  controlled  the  rude  Muscovites  than  hy  his  terrible 
fits  of  passion,  seconded  by  herculean  strength  and  a  gigan- 
tic height.  _  If  on  the  twenty-fourth  February,  1848,  King 
Louis  J*hilippe  had  mounted  a  horse  and  had  shown  his  fine 
white  head  to  the  Parisian  insurgents,  the  dead  republic, 
horn  of  Lamartine  and  Ledru  Rollin,  would  have  aborted. 
If,  afterwards,  when  Louis  K'apoleon  had  been  elected  on 
account  of  his  name  (it  is  not  necessary  to  seek  for  an}'  other 
reason  for  his  elevation,  since  he  was  unknown  to  France, 
except  by  tAvo  attempts  which  were  looked  u])on  as  foolish 
and  absurd,  Ijecause  they  did  not  succeed),  he  had  presented 
himself  to  the  Parisians  on  foot  at  the  first  review  of  the 
trof)iis  which  took  place  on  the  tenth  of  Fehruavy,  1850, 
the  Xapoleonic   dynasty  would   have  been   extinguished. 

31* 


if 


366 


yOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 


ITh  boay,   too    larire   lor    h\^  Mm   htt  o  lop,.  Ins    toot 
Uvuoi\2i  his  awkwanl  gait,  his  ivtr.atu.g  loroac-aa,  and 
i(   noHO  lov.l.l  hanllN- have  lbun.l  t•a^•our  ^vUl.  t hcMm- 
l^ive    enthusiastic,  and  unro«o,'tn.,tr  >  ivncli  poop  c.     Tt 
V  n  1  hav     soenu.l  to  then,  a  KUTilogc  to  as.ocu.te    his 
m-  o-likc  hoacl  with  the  proiilo,  like  an  a"t.,iue  ine.hl   o 
th^  m-eat  Kniperor.     Thus  the  President  showed  hin.selt  on 
orSaek  a  d^o^   the  niost  nu-ttlesonu;  h<.rse  of  us  stables. 
I  e  is  one  of  the  best  and  most  gn^eefnl  riders  m  Kuropo. 
hL  fantastic  unitbrnMU  whi.-h  ^f<^.V^f^,^  ''^U'^iZ 
ant  part  concealed  the  height  ot  his  hgnre.      J  he  tioops 
"vere  ?ange<l  on  the  Chanips1^:iysees  as  far  as  the  Col'-nu.  o 
J,   V  that  is  to  sav  in  a  direction  of  three  or  l(mr  nnles 
aon<^     he    boulevards.     Tlie    drums    were    beating    the 
n  aivh, the  bands  were  playing.     "The  rnnce  is  coniing, 
said  tic  crowd,  and  all  were  awaiting  inipatientb ,  an  hen 
nU  at  once  the  I'rince  debouched  at  the  head  ot  a  stalt 
d  ttorhrw   h  gold  and  plumes.     His  horse  excited  bv  the 
S  wd    nd  the  music,  rendered  furious  by  the  spur  whiA 
ds  r  do   did  not  spare  on  him,  a<lvanced,  roaving.and  inak- 
i  g  immense  boui!ds.     The  Prince,  ca  m  and  .^"^ilmg,  he  d 
th^  reins  with  a  iirm  hand,  and  with  his  right  took  ott 
s  Int  before  the  colours  whic-h  were  lowered  at  his  pas- 
sage    He  msscd  like  a  water-spout,  and  the  crowd,  woijder- 
nl  at  his^^race  and  his  audacity,  burst  into  acchmiations. 
ItHs  thus  his  popularity  began.     A  name  which  sounde 
to  the  cars  of  the  T^rench  li^c  an  echo  of  one  ot  their  old 
llres  and  great  experience  m  the  art  of  horsemanship; 
fid    is' what  ^his  groat  reign  is  founded  upon     It  is  true 
tbS  his  sreat  gein"s  (^oocl  or  bad,  I  do  not  charge  myself 
S  a;pi"ciatfng  it)  Ivs  sinee  been  obliged  to  give  a  rea- 
Ion  to   hose  who  applauded  ^rithout  knowing  him. 

A  fewo-rasps  of  our  travelling  companion  hands,  and 
the  pomise  (made  in  good  faith,  f^ut  after  some  l^oui-s  upon 
land  effaced  from  our  memory)  to  see  each  other  often,  and 
ve  go  on  shore.  Mr.  Ba<lger,  Chickerings  "f  "^  ;  »  . 
nwMitinsr  us  and  with  the  kindest  zeal  placed  hmiself 
e  t*  ely^t  ur  d  sposal.  Our  apartments  are  reserved  for  us 
at  the 'Cosmopolitan  Hotel.'  We  are  gammg  kno^vledge 
?an(  i  confess  hat  I  have  a  groat  dea  of  repugnanee  to  , 
S  the  only  scourge  of  San  Francisco-the  dust.     Built 


itiiiii  fomiwitl,  and 
ivour  Avitii  the  iin- 
Krc'iK'ii  people.     Tt 
;e  to  aswH'iiite  tliis 
1  anti<iue  medal,  of 
showed  himself  on 
horse  of  his  stahles. 
d  riders  in  Europe, 
ayed  a  very  import- 
figure.     The  troops 
iir  aathe  Column  of 
three  or  four  ndles 
were    heating    the 
>  Prinee  is  coming," 
r  impatiently,  Avlien 
the  head  of  a  staff 
horse,  excited  hy  tlie 
1  hy  the  spur  which 
m1,  rearing  and  mak- 
Im  and  smiling,  held 
1  his  right  took  otf 
J  lowered  at  his  pas- 
d  the  crowd,  woiuler- 
'st  into  acclamations, 
name  Avliich  sounded 
lo  of  one  of  their  old 
art  of  horsemanship; 
ed  upon.     It  is  true 
do  not  charge  myself 
ohliged  to  give  a  rea- 
cnowing  him. 
mpanioTis'  hands,  and 
ifter  some  hoprs  upon 
each  other  often,  and 
ckering's  agent,  was 
zeal   placed   himselt 
nts  are  reserved  for  us 
•e  gaining  knowledge 
I  of  repugnance  for  it), 
L8C0 — the  dust.     Built 


COSMO  POL /TAX  HOTEL. 


3G7 


upon  sandy  ground,  and  hills  exitost'd  to  the  wiml,  which 
hiows  everyday  at  noon  for  six  hours,  the  city  is  envel- 
oja-d  in  clouds  of  dust,  which  rise  in  (hmhlc  coliiimirt  t»f  ii 
gnivisii  colour  ahove  the  <ity,  and,  at  a  distanci",  recall  the 
smoke  which  covers  like  a  dais  the  great  Kiiglish  metropolis. 
The  joiirncy  from  the  wharf  to  tlu'  hotel  is  made  slowly— 
the  horses  Y'dl  with  ditHcidty,  and  the  wheels  of  our  ('iir- 
riage  sink  six  inches  dec'it  into  the  saiidv  dust.  This  thick 
an(Timpul[)ahle  dust,  which  is  dried  hy  tue  sun  during  eight 
months  of  uhsolute  drought,  penetrates  into  the  eyes,  the 
ears,  and  the  mouth. 

The  'Cosmopolitan  llotel'  is  a  magnificent  srpiare  edifice 
of  cut  stone,  the  luxury  of  whose  furniture  is  e(iual  to  that 
of  the  first  hotels  in  the  United  Stales.  A  si»leudid  restau- 
rant and  a  magnificent  hilliard-room  are  connected  with  it. 
The  dining-room  is  ornamented  with  a  profusion  of  mirrors, 
which  refiect  the  gilded  eeilings,  and  the  lighted  caiulelal)ra 
give  to  it  the  appearance  of  a  Euroi)ean  palace.  The 
ladies'  parlour  contains  u  Chickering  piano,  which,  con- 
trary to  liotel  pianos,  is  excellent,  and  in  good  tune.  In  a 
jiortfolio  of  music,  wliich  I  fi)Utid  on  the  jtiano,  I  perceived 
the  '.\[ai(kni's  I'rayer,'  rt  in  (/uo'/ur,  0  California  ! 

The  interior  service  of  the  hotel  is  admirahly  perfi)rmed. 
The  waiters,  in  hlack  dresses  and  white  cravats,  are  i)olite 
(they  are  for  the  most  part  French),  and  neat  (the  proprie- 
tors of  hotels  in  Western  cities,  B and  S -,  are  re- 
quested to  meditate  on  this  paragraph),  and  exercise  kind- 
ness in  taking  your  or(h>rs  without  making  you  feel  the 
inferiority  of  "your  position.  The  hill  of  fiire  would  have 
made  Brillat  Savarin  and  Careme  faint  for  joy.  ^'egetal)les 
in  the  greatest  variety,  fruits  of  all  zones,  tropical  and  tem- 
perate, and  the  most  artistic  dishes  appear  in  the  numerous 
nomenclature.  But  I  am  not  easily  taken  by  the  allure- 
ments of  these  deceptive  baits,  which  tlie  hotels  of  the  West 
have  taught  me  to  distrust.  They  are  generally  supernu- 
meraries like  those  mute  choristers  which  directors  add  to 
their  not  too  numerous  choruses,  who,  opening  their  moutlis 
without  singing,  do  very  well  as  a  coup  (Foif,  hut  have  no- 
thing to  do  with  the  music— these  artistic  dishes  have  no 
other  purpose  but  to  increase  the  bill  of  fiire.  If,  some- 
times, an  inexperienced  traveller  falls  in  the  snare,  he  either 


808 


yOTES  OF  A  PIASIST. 


r,.H-.vos  tl.l.  a.,.wor  fnun  tl.o  wa,..-,  '"n.oro   s  ""  more  of 
it  "and  !k-  tl.us  lovscrvi^H  one  illusmn  u.o.y ;  o.   olso  tlic 
IlHv.nix  askcl  for  i.  S.TV..I  u,.  to  l>in.,  a.ul  tU.n  h.  ^woar., 
Lut  a  littlo  too  late,  that  lie  will  lu'vci-  ask  lor  it  ii.i'-am. 

Tl  i'  w....ia  lu'  tl.o  time  to  make  a  i-lnloso,.  n.-al  .l.givs- 
Hvou  o..  tl..o  art  of  c-o,.ki..ii,  whieh  i.  ,uoro  eh.sely  c..n.u-e  ch 
l.n  is  thouul.t  with  intelleetual  c-iv.hzation.  Oi.o  ol  the 
.n.l.oris.us  oV  UriUat  Savarin  was  (who  luai.y  <'""'^^^';'^  -^ 
.. lei  rated  eook,  hut  wlm  was  „nly  a  very  huM..nrahle  judge, 
V  ..  e  eim-"n'^"i'''"  ""''  'U-li'-^'te  wit  i.ron.i.te.l  o  wnte  a 
eharndnl^  hook)  "  it  is  the  heast  that  teeds,  hut  it  is  man 
nnlv  who  knows  how  to  eat.  .  .   ,.  i 

In  the  I'uited  States,  cookery,  like  nmsuM>aintin-,  and 
many  other  hraiiehes  of  a  high  eivili/ation,  has   .';»-;tly  :\«;'^ 
: .  ?  ealled  into  heing.     I  will  rehite  to  you  a  little  stoy 
^vhieh  will  lead  me  hy  u  hy-path  to  the  ^' M ;••;-;; --^  ^'^^ 
whole  opinion  upon  our  national  eooker}  and  oui  aits. 

\t NlIJ  timeof  the  first  outhreak  of  Asiatie  eholera  I 
was  then-I  was  just  ahout  telling  )'<'» ''I?, ^'f' '  .^^^'^^j^  jf, 
cholera  made  its  iirst  appearance  m  18o2,  hy  a  tutling 
a  i^t  11  yot.  would  havi  discovered  I'ow  many  spring 
t  s  I  reckon.  My  fatlier,  to  avoid  the  scourge,  huilt  a 
Hm-il  cottage  on  the  horder  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  in  a 
Xlod  s  ot  called  TVs  Cliristian.  Our  onlv  neighhours 
were  a  few  Indians,  the  only  remains  of  a  tribe  formerly 
niassaered  hy  tlie  S.anianls,  and  whose  hones  were  covered 
hv  a  t^^^l  mound  in  the  clearings  of  the  wood  behind  our 

'^We^lladT  piano,  and  it  was  tbere,  alone,  that  I  began 
mv  attc^mpts  upon  the  instrument  which,  at  a  a  er  peiiod, 
wL  to  attract'to  me  so  many  admir<n.  and  ^etnictors  to 
give  me  so  many  joys,  and  t(5  render  Mr.  D of  IJo.ton 

^"S;rS^:^ing  when  I  was  playing  ' ITail  Columbia'  a 
lai!,e  Indian  sfopped  at  the  door  and  -ajch^l  iih|u^.  n.;ly 
mf  hands  nmning  over  the  keyboard.  M>  fata u  ai 
though  a  man  of  great  intelligence,  he  w^s  not  ^it  ;mt  ta 
weakness  in  whicli  all  fathers  participate  who  think  thur 
cl  i  dren  phaMiixes)  said  to  the  Indian,  "You  see  what  this 
H  e  pde-face  can  do."  The  vanity  of  the  «»vage  w^^so 
much  the  more  wounded  as  he  could  not  deny  that  the 


THE  IXDIAX  OF  PASS  Cl/RIST/AX. 


SCO 


Tlioro  is  no  more  of 
1  more;  oi'  else  the 
and  tlu'U  he  swears, 
asU  r(ir  it  aji-aiii. 
thilosophical  tliures- 
ire  closely  coiineeted 
izatioii.     One  of  the 

0  many  think  was  a 
ry  hononrahle  jndge, 
[irompted  to  write  ii 
:  feeds,  but  it  is  inau 

iniisie,  imintint!;,  and 
ation,  1ms  hardly  yet 
to  you  a  little  story 
the  expression  of  my 
ery  and  <Hir  arts, 
of  Asiatic  cliolera,  I 
DU  my  at;c ;  since  the 

1  18:]2,  hy  a  tritiing 
id   how  nuiny  spring 

the  scoxu-ge,  built  a 

Gulf  of  Mexico,  in  a 

Our  only  neighbours 

i  of  a  tribe  formerly 

nc  bones  were  covered 

the  wood  behind  our 

?,  alone,  that  I  began 

lich,  at  a  later  period, 

•ers  and  detractors,  to 

j^j^^r.  ]) of  lioston 

g  'ITail  Columbia'  a 
\vatched  inquisitively 
r>ard.  My  father  (al- 
0  was  not  without  that 
ipate,  who  think  their 
,n,  "  You  sec  what  this 
,'  of  the  savage  was  so 
aid  not  deny  that  the 


child  did  what  neither  he  nor  liis  had  cvi'r  doni".  lb'  came 
in  and  attentively  examined  the  box  from  wlience  the 
strange  soinids  proceeded.  Tea  was  ready.  We  passed 
into  the  next  room  without  thinking  of  the  Indian.  I 
al(>ne  secretly  observed  him.  His  great  size  and  hoarse 
\()ice  inspired  me  with  childish  fear.  I  saw  liim,  after 
satisfying  himself  that  he  was  not  observed,  slowly  ap- 
l>roacli  the  piano;  he  looked  attentively  at  the  keyboard, 
then  carelessly,  and  as  if  by  accident,  he  let  his  hand  fall 
u[)on  a  key  which  returned  a  soimd.  Scarcely  had  he 
heard  it,  when  his  countenance,  which  had  remained 
morose,  brightened,  he  sat  down  at  the  piano,  and  with  all 
the  force  of  his  arms  lie  began  to  beat  tlie  kevs,  calling 
out  triumphantlv  to  my  father,  "You  see,  1  never  trieii 
before,  and  1  make  more  noise  than  he." 

Do  you   understand   my    eomjiarison?      "Xol"      Very 

well,  then.     Go  to   B ,  an.l   when  you   shall   be  told 

wliat   some   one  told   me — "Mrs. is  tlie  best  singer 

here,  bet-aiise  you  can  hear  her  a  mile  off"— rec-all'^'to 
yourself  the  Indian  of  ]»ass  Christian.  "This  gallery  of 
]iaintings  is  the  largest  which  we  have  in  America."  The 
Indian  of  Ta-ss  Christian.  "JNfr.  Such-an-one  is  an  excellent 
judge  of  nmsie;  he  has  sjjent  six  months  in  Kuro]ie." 
Again,  my  Indian.  "Our  hotel  is  as  good  as  the 'Fifth 
Avcime'  or  the  'Contuiental ;'  look  at  the  nund)c>r  of  dishes 
on  the  bill  of  fare."     The  Indian,  always  the  Indian. 

To  sing  you  require  lungs,  but  it  also  re(iuires  other 
things;  an  ox  can  he  heard  a  mile  ott".  A  gallery  of 
paintings,  if  it  possessed  two  hundred  million  daubs,  would 
not  1)0  worth  one  miniature  of  Tsabey,  or  one  of  Aleisson- 
nier's  interiors.  Mr.  Sueh-an-one,  instead  of  six  months, 
might  have  remained  six  yi'ars  in  iMirojic,  and  come  back 
as  big  a  blockhead  as  before.  Your  hotel  might  have  as 
many  dishes  on  its  bill  of  fare  as  the  Queen  of  Spain  has 
names  (I  think  she  has  one  hundred  and  thirty -two);  if  they 
are  bad  your  cooking  makes  it  like  a  cheap  eating-house. 

But  the  food  of  the  (.'osmojiolitan  Hotel  is  excellent,  or 
at  least  the  dishes  here  are  eatable.  The  town,  when  vou  arc 
in  the  middle  of  Montgomery  Sti-eet  (the  principal"  Street 
in  San  Francisco),  looks  like  the  beautiful  ].ortions  of 
Chicago ;  the  stores  are  large  and  luxurious.     Built  upon 


-I 

l 


370 


sotj:s  of  a  riAMsr. 


.,  nun.la-r  of  hU'vu  hills  tlic  streets  rise  un.l  .Icsc-ciul ;  tl.cy 
h     "     v^^Ucl  n.a^-  ottlK..u   l.wt  nuul.  n.nuuns    o  bo  clou. 
I  Irivc  SITU  ow  SI M.t  wIkmv  tlu'  .irrouM.l  is  so  sUrp  that  .v-u 
L    c    o  ^o  ..;.  hv'stc.ps,  th.  ro,.f  ..f  tho  1..WW-  hoMs.  <-o..m,:4 
the   il-vcl  of  tho  st.i.s   of  tho  one  whirh  i.mr.l.s  ,t 

i,,rt    lu'h."-   <loiie   aftcT    the   housi-s   are    t)Uilt    tlu}    n.iM 
;  .  ,..        tlu'in  at  th.  bottom.     Thc-y  prop  thoni  t.p  an.l 
;;;,U;riowcr  storU-s  to  tho...,  so  that  what  wa.  o,u-e  the 
Ln-omul  floor  brcoiiK's  tho  itarrot.  .         .,„..,. 

^  It  s  i.upossiblo  on  soc.u.ir  San  Francis.o  o  una-u.o  la 
tho  (bite  of  its  foundation  pu's  no  turtluT  bark  than 
tnt;  voars  ago,  and  tlmt  it  i;a.  b...  l'-;-  ^'-^  ^ho 
or  thnv  tinu.s.  1  have  been  nhown  tbop  ^.v  ]^  '^,  !^ 
hcich  was.  It  is  now  nearly  a  mile  iron.  it.  ihc>  lia\t 
I ';  n  I  h U  land  from  the  sea  by  throwing  into  i  the 
f.nd  ear  ed  from  the  hills  whilst  they  were  levelling. 
S'  Fn.  i.eo  nnmbers  three  theatres,  two  hirge  cnee 
i;iss-veralsniall.>ues,an.lanii.iii.iteiuiinbero   salo.M^ 

±C.n  s  ;uid  a  Chinese  theatre.   .Maguire's  Op..jt  lb>u^ 

^  .  ..nenllv  oeeupicd  by  a  dramatie  eonipany.     >lagimes 

t^u  e.  ;     )f  Musie  is  a  <-harming  hall,  whieh  holds    rom 

M  en  to  ei.rhteen  h.mdre.l  ,.ersons  easi  v,  and  inwhuh 

the  T  a   an  opera  under  the  direetion  ot   Magnire  is  ... 

irfm-     n-  be.-e.     The   ]Met.-op<.litan   Theatre   ib  a  little 
L  or  t  .an  tl  e  Academy  of  Musie,  but  less  elegant  in_ its 

Si  cil^e^Irations.     vL.^V.  '}f'''^'^'^'^i:''^'% 

there  in  opposition  to  that   ot    Magiure «.     Ibe  'y''%ll 

■    Ma  mire  is  e  >nsta..tly  found  throughout  all  Cal.tornia.    1  he 

one"  1  It  bears  it  was,  some  say,  a  spo.-tmg  cha.-acter,  a 

"xe^^     I  e  k..^^^^  fo.-tuni,,nnd,.at  the  ^an.e  _timo 

.'s  built  almost  all  the  thciti-os  of  the  interior  an.l  ot  Sa. 

i^^nc     o      He  is  very  intellige.it,  very  enterprising,  and 

mmiderbv  himself  alone  ^br  almost  all  the  amnseme..ts 

S^  c^oSl^iru  cities  of  the  Paeiiic.     I  have  tcMiud    inn 

voi-v  kind  and  very  just  in  his  t.-a.isactio..s.      Iheie  is, 

he shle^       tWs  moiae.it  at  San  Fra.u-iseo  a  circus  c.nnpa.iy 

to  w  Sl^^^^^^^^^^^        the  hermaphrclite  belongs.^  I  reinember 

hJ^emiiit  produced  by  the  ^ITermoso  Seii.^i  a  /oyan 

..t   Havana    when  cverv   voung   pei-son  was  to..ll^hl.^    in- 

teritei  in  the  solution  of  the  mystery  eoncerntng  her  sex. 


^f^^th■J:T^'  of  .sa\  /v.'.i.vf />'(>. 


871 


iintl  (It'scoiKl ;  thoy 
villains  to  Ih)  <lt>tit'. 
s  sti  stocp  tliiit  you 
)\viT  hoiisi'  roiiiinii!; 
whicli  itri'ci'dts  it, 
•lliiiir  tor  tlio  1110.4 
;  hiiilt,  tlu'y  liavi' 
j.rop  (lu'iii  up  null 
vluit  was  oiu'L'  tlie 

«'0  to  iuiat!;iuo  that 
furtlu'i-  liack  tlian 
1  hunioil  tlowu  two 
he  placv  wIkto  the 
•oni  it.  Thoy  liave 
rowiiiir  into  it  the 
hey  were  levelliuu;. 
»,  two  large  eouecTt 
uiiihei- of  saloons  for 
ruire's  Opera  House 
)Uip;iuy.  Maguire's 
,  whieh  holds  from 
isily,  and  in  whieh 

(.f 'Maguirc  is  n  >w 

Theati-e  is  a  little 
it  less  elegant  in  its 

Company  is  playing 
ire's.  The  name  of 
t  all  California.  The 
porthig  character,  a 
,,  at  the  same  time, 
i  Ulterior  and  of  San 
•ry  enter]  irising,  and 

all  the  amusements 
I  have  found  him 
isactions.  There  is, 
SCO  a  eireua  company 
Ljlongs.  I  rememher 
loso  Senorita,  Zoyara' 
ion  was  fo(.lishly  in- 
{  concerning  her  sex. 


1  am  told  that  Mile  Zoyara  is  married,  and  that  she  is  the 
hi'st  hu>liaiid  in  llie  uorltl  and  the  most  cNtcilcnt  of 
tiitlicrs.     1  suppose  from  this  that  the  proldfin  is  solved. 

The  cafes  ami  l)illianl-saloons  of  San  Francisco  are  mag- 
nificent, hanilsdiiicr  even  than  tliosi«  (if  Xcw  Vnrk.  The 
'  l>anl<  Kxchaiige'  is  liie  most  aristocratic  of  the  latter,  and 
at  its  har  the  great  merchants  every  day  lliid  an  c.\([nisite 
collation.  ( 'liampagne  is  constantly  driiiiU  licri'  tliroiighout 
the  whole  day.  it  is  the  l»ase  of  all  the  drinks,  such  as 
li'moiiade,  cocktails,  smashes,  cohhiers.  As  to  \\iv  Cali- 
fornia wine,  I  have  as  yet  only  seen  one  lutttle  of  it,  and  I 
do  not  helieve  that  a  glass  a  day  is  drunk  of  it  in  all  the 
cafes  (if  San  Francisco.  I  made  this  remark  to  a  Calil'or- 
nian,  who  laughingly  answi'i-cd  me:  "We  lei've  the  car<j 
of  it  to  you  Kasti'rii  people."  1  know  too  little  of  li(|Uors 
to  decide  whether  he  wished  *•>  say  something  not  at  all 
tlattering  to  our  taste  in  matters  of  wine. 

The  markets  of  Sau  Francisco  are  worthy  of  heing  seen. 
They  are  rtoori'd,and  ol' scrupulous  neatness,  "^i'liis  comitry 
lias  all  the  hest  things  of  the  world  in  profusion.  Fruits 
and  vegetahles  of  every  zone  and  every  climate  alioiind 
here.  Salmon  (I  have  seen  .some  which  were  two  feet  in 
circumrerence)  cost  two  hits  (twenty-tive  cents)  a  pound. 
They  are  so  pleiitit'ul,  that  there  is  a  story,  true  or  false, 
wl'.ii-li  says  that  the  Irish  servants  stipulate  that  it  shall 
not  he  given  them  to  eat  more  than  twice  a  week.  Straw- 
herries  ripen  tlix;  whole  year.  The  appies  of  Oregon  are 
excellent.  The  oranges  of  Lower  California  are  in  ahuud- 
ance.  The  olives  are  as  large  and  good  as  those  of  Anda- 
lusia, and  will  hecome,  when  the  mining  fever  ahates  and 
industry  develops  the  resources  of  the  country,  an  important 
hranch  of  industrial  production.  Almonds,  cherries  (aii<l 
what  cherries'.),  peaches,  grapes,  ajtricots,  artichokes,  cauli- 
flowers, heets  (the  poorest  fire  three  times  larger  than  those 
of  the  East,  aial  1  have  seen  some  that  weighed  twenty- 
five  pounds) ;  in  one  word,  all  the  richness  of  the  vegetal)le 
kingdom  has  hcen  accumulated  here  hy  Providence  on  this 
land  of  jiromise,  whose  climate,  a  perjietual  temperature  of 
spring,  would  he  the  finest  in  the  Avorld,  wt'i-e  it  not  for  the 
cursed  wind  which  comes  up  every  day  from  noon  until 
six  o'clock  and  whirls  the  sandy  dust  in  every  direction. 


872 


snrr.s  or  A  i'iam^t. 


.     ;  all  a  V  tWu.Hl   i..  Calavon.s  County,     tlu"  water  ot 

I-  to  tlu.  .oast  ,..vs...ts  la.-,  olniunnou.  .pot., 

.i.tl  r to  in.li.m.  tlmNlu.v  nn.st  IkmWs  o^j^ 

1  .  inti'i-ior  of  tlu'  hill..     >^">'u-  have  .oiunun.r.l.  it  i>  .ai  1, 

.1 "'      1  .  in  n>any  pla.-.s,  an.l  tl.o  o,    h-v..-  P-'-;;'-;    ' 

Li-  as  n.any  vi.-tin.  an    t.  ^'I'l^"; -j^- ;''*,, .^ I  !  ^ 

M-ic.tin,Hr.nn.n.ayHav    o... 

vUn  I  a.l.hvssc..l  the  Hanu;  nnosti.a.      ^;^^l^-V^X: i^ 

;ls^.;:T;;;;;:i'i:i;^.ru;';.-;;:;i.-;^^ 

;;;; :  m.^     at  ^^>ot^  1-1.0  ;^.;ak.),  tl..  .lia,.tc.r  o.-  ncvor. 
^    hi '  n!  !l.i.-i...      There   a.v,   ve.-l.a,.s    th.vo   thousm. 
K  in  C'alifoi-nia,  and  thc^re  are  ha.-.Uy  one-halt    lo/ei. 
that  reLmla,lv  u.ake  .livhlen.l.,  and,  ncverthelens,  all  a.-e 

"The'l.ad;rSLf  Calif^>rnia  are  rnarvollouB  h,>t  it 

lu,  n.   mai  u  j^tore.t,  which  is  one  and  a  halt 

;:  ^^c^     a  non^l  o.;  a^irit  n.ortga^e  with  ,ood  sig..at^-c;s. 

1:;.,;:;  otherwise  he  explained      ^>-;f  ^-^;^.,r  ,^  ' 1 1 
uvn  to  three  per  cent,  a  month.     Uijatal  laii.,  noiwui 
Tt  u..lin.^      '  in  n.ense  reso.^rces  which  tl.e  count.-y  lavsents 
it  is  tiro  oil  which  wonld  hd.ricate  a,.d  put  n.  motion  all 
+.,,>  -ivlii'cU  of  th»>  freat  machn.e.  ,  .  ,   t  •  i 

T  K  e     r^l  es^^       the  'Cosmopolitan'  (whica.  I  eons.der 

tlu     e    )  tlu-ee  0^1  er  very  good  hotels.    The  extra  or.  Unary 

t-  nlmo^  of  the  city  luhin  the  last  ten  yc.rs  has  ,.a    - 

nllv  caused  a  great  increase  m  the  value  .u  la...l.    Chua^^o 

.  no  vais  a.ro  seemed  to  have  attahied  during  the  si)e.-u- 

SlveW^umlthe  maximn.n ;  hut  nothing  approach- 


[Ill  Fmiit'is<M)  nuirlit 
irt  wiii'l.  wliifli  fiilH 
V  iiliiiiM  ami  Imslu'H 

and  lui'n'ury  Hcnii 
•d  t'ViTV  tliiy.  \'*'i'V 
iity.     'Vlif  wiitiT  of 

IJl-    (llcilliillOllrf  f<|H>tr<, 

t  Ik'  (Ifpols  of  till  ill 
)iiiiiu'ni'i'<I.U  ij^  f'iii'K 
.il  li'vcr  ipromi'-*'-*  <" 
isU'i-  the  jri'M  t'cvi'i'. 
[u\\'{  ir  the  iniiu's 
I  -will  Hiiy  iiotliiiit; 
ilit'oriiiiiii  t'(il<l  iin'  to 

.      ''Till'  l«Xlii'llscs   of 

ilicult  to  cut  in  tlio 

0  wiisli  tlio  jroltl,  Olio 
:  miU's  to  tiii»l  it,  iind 
'nsi(U's,  tlio  »liK',iiii'g« 
)](>yiiK'iit  of  t'lioriiioiirt 
kli'iiiiiU  jiiv  (U'iir;  1h'- 
tilt!  c-liniitcT  of  iH'Vor- 
lui.s,  tlim'  tliousimd 
liirdly  oiic-liiilf  do/A-n 
,  iievortlit'k'Hs,  all  are 

xro  tnarvoUons,  l)nt  it 
liicli  is  one  and  u  lialf 
with  good  signatures, 
ouov  rates  as  high  ns 
L^apUal  fails,  iiotwith- 

1  the  country  ]iresentrt; 
and  put  in  motion  all 

tan'  (whii^h  I  consider 
Is.  The  extraordinary 
last  tea  years  has  uatu- 
•alueof"laiid.  Chicago 
lined  <luniig  the  specu- 
hut  nothiiig  approach- 


cosanrrs  at  >.i.v  tn.\.\ri>r»). 


878 


iii^'  to  the  followiiii;  liirures:  Admiral  !>iipoiit  gained  last 
Vt'iir  a  lawsuit  hy  which  wi'i-e  aeeonled  to  him  ihiity-tiyf 
thousand  iloUars  tor  a  picei' <if  gruimd  for  whirh  he  had  paid 
liftci'ii  dollars.  Mr.  Li«U  piiirhaMil  for  lifty  dollars,  from 
a  man  who  had  paid  live  dollars  for  it,  the  uroiind  on 
which  he  hiiill  tlii' '  1/ick  lloiisi-.'  This  ground  is  to-day 
worth,  without  the  hotel,  live  hiiudri'd  thousand  dollars. 

Mrssrs.  hadirt'i"  and  l/mderlierg'r,  wholesale  ready-mado 
clothing  nu'reiiaiits,  whose  large  ston-  is  situated  in  the 
hiisiness  strt'ct  of  San  Kraiiciseo,  have  in  the  first  story  a 
di'pot  for  I'hickering's  pianos,  of  which  they  sell  a  great 
numher.  Js  it  an  indication  that  music  is  much  ciillisaled'^ 
I  would  not  daro  to  assi-rt  it.  Music,  of  all  the  arts,  is  th« 
last  to  ini[ilant  itself,  and  only  takes  deep  root  in  oM  ci\  ili/ed 
societies.  It  is  too  ahstract,  it  apiici'tains  too  much  to  the 
domain  of  thought  and  fei-liiig  to  tlourish,  where  tl  ,■  physi- 
eal  forci's  art'  in  full  activity.  It  is  an  art  for  idlers  and 
dreamers.  Neither  the  oiieiior  the  other  is  found  among 
men  who  have  to  hiiilil  houses  to  shelter  theiusehes,  and 
wh(»  have  to  seek  their  foo(l.  The  jilastic  arts  are  the  tjrst, 
after  spok.'ii  poetry,  which  suggest  themselves  to  the  miiaU 
of  primitive  peoples. 

t'oiicerts  at  San  Francisco  have  never  succeeded.  Olo 
r.iill  and  Strakosch  left  it  in  confusion.  J'aul  .Iiilieii,  who 
lias  just  passed  five  months  here,  has  not  carried  otl"  one 
thousand  dollars  net.  On  the  other  side,  L  regret  to  say  it, 
the  circus  tlourishes,  and  Miss  Adah  Menken,  after  having 
driven  all  the  [icoiile  rvi\/:\\  has  carried  away  with  her  fifty 
thousand  dollars.  You  will  easily  understand  that  tho 
chaste  muse,  sister  of  Apollo,  can  only  go  astray  hetbro  a 
puhlic  which  is  enthusiastic  at  the  mulities  of  Mazeppa. 

There  are  numerous  Chinese  here.  It  is  supposed  that 
there  are  more  than  seventy  thousand  in  California,  and  at 
least  five  thousand  in  San  Francisco.  The  great  majority  of 
them  are  laundryincn.  Stockton  Street  is  lineil  with  Chi- 
nese shops;  they  sell  drugs,  seeds,  make  shoes,  etc.  Some 
of  them  are  very  rich,  very  '.■itelligent,  and  speak  English 
readily.  I  was  introduced  to  Sam  Kee,  a  (Irugtfist  I  think, 
who,  seated  hehind  his  desk,  was  writing  his  letters — 1>  shij) 
leaves  for  China  to-morrow. 

The  neatness  with  which  ho  wrote  from  right  to  left  his 
82 


374 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


onvx  Mv  -y-'  '  'l"ubtk'ss  to  give  Iniii  a  high  ic  a  a  ot  tlu. 
.ti  or  aV  ic-Ti  he  intro(Uu-ed  to  him,  rei-^'^^t-^  to  hiui  re- 
oue  tv  "Mr.  Gottsehalk,  the  great,  great  vnunst,  hut 
!\v  n.'  thatthe(V.k.stial  oi.ene(l  his  eyes  without  u.uk i- 
ita,  I  1 '  ti.e  wonl  piauist,  he  a.kle.1  to  it  a  vai.to.uime  Avth 
his  fingor^^  wliieh'he  Bhook  rapidly  in  tlie  air  repeating 

"^m  lS'howe.1  very  protbuudly,  reganliug  nie  ^vith  a 
rest  e  s  look.  It  is  plaiu  that  the  pantouimie  with  the  hi  - 
Tis  i  1  not  inspire  him  with  eoniideiiee.  He  aeeompanie^l 
£e  a  far  as  tlu- door,  all  the  time  bowing  to  mc  proiound  y, 
a  muS^ft>r  the  r"n>o- <>f -mipliim^nting  me  as  tn^ 
k'st  I  mi-ht  use  the  uu-ihty  ot  my  lingers  to  his  detiimu  i. 
I  ;l.ii;;d'iu>t  he  astonished  if  he  ha,  ^-^^^f^lS^ 
ing  to  his  writing  to  his  eorrespondents,  that  1  ■  ''  '^  "^^ 
received   the  visit  of  a  eelebrated  robber  ot   the  Lnited 

^^One  of  these  rieh  Chinese  made  his  daughter  eome  over 
She  v. ^  so  beautiful  that  several  Yankees,  Europeans,  and 
CVles'  ds  fell  ill  love  with  her.     The  miserable  lather  in  Ins 
dkSe  s  did  not  know  what  to  do  to  seerete  l^^/^^^J^^e  Iron 
'he  indisereet  regards  of  the  enthusiasts.     He   elosed   Ins 
;  om.  o     •  1  visitm-s.     But  the  type  of  Kosina  in  the  '  Bar- 
Mer  de  Seville'  is  the   eternal  type  of  amorous  dainse 
An  admirer  had  B(mie  ability  in  his  plan,  and  one  night  t  e 
house  was  lK.siecre<l  for  the  purpose  oi  earrymg  ott   tlie 
oautv  im  her  iealous  Hither.     The  old  Chinese  and  his 
sci^aits  iZ  Se  I  themselves,  and  defendc.l  themselves  so 
we  1      at   hev  put  the  besiegei-s  to  flight.     The  event  mad. 
Bueh    an    inJossion    on    tlie.  honest   merchant   that   he 
fnthted  as  dp,  and  lorty-eight  Ixours  after  thc/^^^"  |^"] 
Sdne  e   et  out  kgai.i,  sighing  for  the  banks  ot    Ije  ye  ow 
HveJ-where  probablv  she  has  married  a  tat    big-bellie 
malidaHn  to  whom  she  does  noteare  to  speak  about  her 
oilvoii+iirp  with  the  voung  barbarian.  .       •  ^        /- 

n!ub?  if  the  old  Chhiese  has  a  very  flattermg  idea  of 

our  eivilizatiou. 


THE  MORMON  MISSION AllW 


375 


)k-koopor  pale  witli 
I  11  \\'\)x\\  i'lwv  "t"  the 
'jn'iitod  to  hiiii^  iVo- 
ifivat  |iiiuiist,"  but 
'vos  without  uiulor- 
t^l  |iiuitoiuiinu  Avitli 
I  tlie  air  repeating 

<ranliiig  nic  with  a 
oiuiiuo  with  the  tin- 
i.  lie  aceouii)anie(l 
g  to  mc  proibuiKlly, 
ing  me,  as  tVoiii  tear 
ers  U>  hir^  detriment, 
lentioned,  on  retnrn- 
ts,  that  he  had  juj^t 
bher  of  the  United 

daughter  come  over. 
icee!-'',  Euroi)eans,  and 
liserable  father  in  his 
i-ete  his  treasure  from 
ists.     He   closed   his 
Kosina  in  the  '  Bar- 
if  amorous  damsels, 
an,  and  one  night  the 
of  carrying  off  the 
old  Chinese  and  his 
'fended  themselves  so 
ht.     The  event  made 
t  merchant   that   he 
rs  after  the  beautiful 
^  ])anks  of  the  yellow 
•ied  a  fat,  big-bellied 
e  to  speak  about  her 

very  flattering  idea  of 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

I  WAS  introduced  to  Mr.  de  Cazotte,  French  Consul.  TTo 
is  the  grandson  of  Cazotte  of  the  revolution,  op.e  of  the 
famous  Ilhnninati. 

In  a  narrow  street  near  Stockton  Street  we  see  two  or  three 
mifortunatecreaturesooncealingtheirmisery  under  ]iaiiit  and 
tinsel,  and  smiling  at  us  with  that  horrible  stereotyped  smile 
which  ballet  ilancers  and  courtesans  possess  the  secret  of. 

Two  days  after  my  arrival  a  visiting  card  was  brought 
me.  "  The  gentleman  is  waiting  for  you  down  stsiirs," 
said  the  servant.  I  meet  again  here  a  young  Frencliman, 
one  of  my  friends,  Parisian  in  mind  and  heart. 

I  havebeen  introduced  to  one  of  the  Cro'suses  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, wliose  fortune,  it  is  said,  is  incalc;ulable.  He  came 
here  as  a  Mormon  missionary,  but  (piickly  iicrceivod  that 
there  was  more  gold  to  be  gained  than  jirosclytes  to  be 
made.  The  women  were  then  in  such  an  inlinitesinial  i)ro- 
jiortion  to  the  male  ])opulation  that  it  would  have  been 
ridiculous  to  preach  polygamy  to  those  who  were  forced  to 
be  celil)ates. 

He  obtained  a  round  sum  which  he  made  use  of;  money 
brought  then  ten  or  fifteen  jier  cent.,  and  in  a  few  yciirs  ho 
liad  made  many  millions.  He  was  in  his  ofHce  when  I  was 
admitted  into  'his  presence,  and  was  amorously  caressing 
the  big  too  of  his  riffht  foot  with  the  index  flnircr  and 
thuml)  of  his  left  hsind.  "  Gottschalk,  Gottschalk !"  he 
said  to  me,  without  letting  go  his  big  toe,  "  I  know  tliat 
name.  "Ain't  you  one  of  tliem  opera  singers  ?  What  do 
you  sing,  bass  or  tenor?" 

He  has,  I  am.  assured,  renounced  tlie  doctrine  of  polj-gani}'-, 
but  he  drinks  a  great  deal, 

Frc'ich  commerce  is  renresented  here  by  man}'  consider- 
able houses.  Contrary  to  ti  at  of  other  countries  where  tho 
French  play  in  the  moTicy  market  only  a  secondary  part, 
they  rank  here  amoi.g  t  no  tirst. 


376 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


^vonuM>,  but  they  uro  ruro  '^^}''}i:'^^^^^  ,  ^l.c  '  bulletin,' 
The  "owsrai^r.    the  'Aha  taW<^^^  ^^^ 

cte    are  "">'f  "  ^^.  * '  f,.,^ter  onu-t  thev  have  too  tVeciuently 
i.()htK'al  matters     m  niattci  oi  i  luin^tvels,  to  have 

encouragea  the  ^•"•^■"^S^^f  ^f  \' ^'  .^  an      r^^  the 

true  taste,  and  r^^'t^^^^^n'  >    VJ^^se   'C^^^^  W^^^  ^"^5^0.1 

attention  an.l  respect  wueh  they  '^^-^''J-  j^^,^^,i  .^^^i,, 

all  the  newspaper  e.htors    ^J  .f/W  ^f ,     \,,,o  c.f 
,avu>g  P-'\f--/^,C?:^r^S£n\nvUoa,  two  only 

^"' ''  niir thev  hek  -^^  -"^«  l^l-'-     From  the 

came,  and  tney  ueiuuj^v.  „,,„,,v('nse  anv  card,  or  any- 

othei-8  we  have  "V^'^'^rrr^T,  ^Vthrfei   notu.n  of  the 
thing  else  iy'^^^'^^yilK:  J  f  ^^t   n  Jt^lat^lr  n.y  first 
elementary  laws  ot  P^'^^t^^^f '  /J.,!!":,,,,  ^otiees,  but  all  I 
concert  they  all. gave  '"f;;-'^^.  ^  V "^^  "  Ac,n'stonu'<l  to 
owe  them  i.  limited  to  t^^j'  "  ;^*  .^^,    heir  in.liiterenco  bo 
the  courtesy  ot  ti»o  i'^^^^*' I/'f '^'^  V^^  ^^^,,  have  visited 
much  the  more,  as  the  number  «   P^'^^^^^^ ^;i  .  ,,^,,,.,,  to  he 
San  Francisco,  gives  them  less     f.:        'J-^^'  -'V.oyara  aiul  of 
blase.     There  is  yet  too  ^^^^"^^^^Z  ^^    ^  ^i^stUy  cn.nclude  from 
Menken  in  the  ^^'f  ?'^''  "'vo^incou  h     «a    l\-ancisco  is  one 
this  that  the  people  l^'^^P^^^X  \vorld,  and   intinitely 

of  the  most  polished  ^^  .\^^  "^  •   \^Jv>^es  .    But  a  concert 
,noreivtinedtlummanyoHhoem^^^^^^^^^^ 

for  them  is  a  concert,  that  \^,J^*;  ^Vbitions,and  from  their 
and  less  entertaining  t^':!';,*!*^"^^^^^^  are  w.)rth 

1"'"^'  ^!  ^"\!S:"t^  ^re^ic"^  theiu,  and  they  do 
more  than  a  banana  ,  t^;^';^;,^,^^^^^,^,  Menken  and  comj.any 
not  cost  so  muc-h.  As  toi  •-»\''  ' '''  '  -^  ^t  jioro.  Lilly 
seem  to  be  the  only  ""f,^^'',  ^  ^ ^ni  hero  inettaceable 
Bnrk,  tlie  --  -V.S.^.S;Hn^;^  presence  the  voul 
St ir  depal^  i::^ -usil  in  the  budget  of  amusements 

'"'  SgS^'ri:Pa  has  commenced  the  season  with  ^Trova- 


FIRST  llEITdiSESTAriON  OF  " /.7.\V,1A/." 


377 


!  ITnitcd  Ftates,  the 
il  ninii1>or  of  proUy 
i(.  Tnith  iorcrsnio 
iu'es  atul  (Iresscrt  is 
ttitcs.  1  luivo,  it  is 
\<r  cjirls  and  luan'iotl 

Ilia,'  tlic  'bulletin,' 
ell  edited  as  regards 
have  too  lVe([uently 
le  luiiistvels,  to  have 
und  artists  with  the 
c.    We  have  invited 
r  at  our  hotel,  alter 
ieh  not  one  of  theiu 
en  invited,  two  only 
c  i)ai)or.     From  the 
use,  any  card,  or  any- 
e  least  notion  of  the 
•ue  that  after  my  lirst 
mir  notiees,  hut  all  I 
'  so.     Aecustonied  to 
,  their  inditforenee  so 
iiistsAvho  have  visited 
than  the  others  to  he 
dly,  of  Zoyara  aiitl  of 
diastilyeoneludefroni 
San  Franeisoo  is  one 
world,  and   intinitely 
i  VVest.    But  a  eoneert 
an  amusement,  dearer 
jitions,  and  from  their 
en  of  ai'ples  are  worth 
\  of  them,  and  they  do 
Menken  and  eomjiany 
excite  it  here.     i>illy 
him  here  inethieeable 
II  my  presence  the  void 
huiiget  of  amusements 

he  season  with  'Trova- 


tore.'  Putting  aside  the  infatuation  of  small  towns  for 
everything  that  is  new,  the  troupe  is  perfvetly  justilied  hy 
its  success. 

We  have  announced  a  series  of  six  concerts.  The  two 
operas,  which  are  in  full  activity,  will  he  a  ru(le  competi- 
tion for  us.  In  any  other  cotmtry  we  should  think  '\little  of 
it,  hut  here,  where,  since  Mine.  15 — —  (and  what  an  ojiera), 
there  has  been  no  Italian  eompany,  thi'y  have  all  tlie  at- 
traction of  novelty.  Iwas  present  at  the  representation  of 
'  Krnani'  at  the  Metrojiolitan.  Ahirelli,  the  excellent  bari- 
tone, played  'Charles  \'.'  Ue  has  still  his  tine  voice,  his 
intelligent  conception  of  the  part,  and  his  just  intonation. 
This  iast  (piality  will  sufHce,  to  my  notion,  to  secure  him 
public  admiration, — as  to  sing  false  has  to-<lay  become  a 
condition  .sine  (/iia.  van  of  singers.  The  choruses,  composed 
in  great  part  ot'(iermans  and  Italians,  have  l)eeu  ([uite  sat- 
isfactory, as  well  as  the  orchestra.  I  am  not  among  those 
who  admire  Verdi  to  excess.  Some  of  his  operas,  'Attila' 
for  instance,  seem  to  me  in  some  }>arts  unworthy  of  a  great 
musician,  but  on  listening  to  the  quintette  in  the  second 
act,  the  duo  of  the  basso",  the  trio  tinale,  and  the  tinale,  I 
cannot  heli)  recalling  with  hitterness  the  nnsldlled_  judg- 
ment which  till'  whole  European  press,  antl  all  the  sinqile- 
tons,  who  compose  three-quarters  of  the  public,  gave  twenty 
yeare  ago.  I  was  present  at  the  first  representation  of 
'  Ernani*  at  the  Theatre  des  Italiai'^  at  Paris.  1  was  ii:  the 
box  of  Madame  Mennechet  de  I'arival,  a  writer  of  merit, 
an  eminent  pianist,  and  the  Egeria  of  Ambroise  Thomas. 
"What  detestable  i)latitudesl  What  vulgaritvl  What 
noise  I  Wliat  vacuity  1"  re-echoed  around  me.  Xot  one  of 
the  beauties  of  the  opera  was  noticed,  and  all  the  little 
hallad  eonqtosers  fell  upon  him  and  tore  him  to  pieces.  I 
myself,  who,  thank  God,  have  never  ftumd  enough  gall  in 
my  nature  to  make  me  rejoice  at  the  fall  of  a  confrere,  I, 
myself,  in  good  faith,  found  everything  detestable.  No- 
thing easier,  I  said  to  myself,  than  to  mi*ke  such  operas. 
It  litis  hai>pened  to  me  siiiu-e  to  try  to  make  an  opera,  and 
the  day  in  which  I  sketched  out  a  had  duo,  I  all  at  (Mice 
perceived  that  Verdi  possessed  genius.  I  recommend  to 
pianisliculcs,  who  deny  talents  to  "their  confreres,  who  dare 

a2* 


878 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAXIST. 


to  compose,  this  little  exorcise,  which  cannot  tixil  of  being 
useful  to  their  petty  vanity. 

Califoknia,  18(55. 
I  am  wanting  a  pianist.  I  ha.l  executed  on  fourtetm 
pianos  the  March  of  Tannha.iser  arranged  by  niysclt.  its 
success  had  l>een  so  j;reat  tbat  I  lia.l  to  announce  another 
concert  (M.  fourteen  piano>  On  the  evo  ot  the  concert  one 
of  my  pianists  fell  sick.  What  am  I  to  do  i  I'nt  ott  the 
conccn-f^  Is' ever!  A  warmed-up  diin.er  is  never  worth 
anvthintj.  In  the  matter  of  concerts  you  must  never  put 
oif:  The  public  is  flighty,  capricious,  pitiless.  Liarn  to 
seize  the  hour  it  is  favonrable  to  you ;  it  you  do  not,  it 
escapes  you  without  any  reason. 

Announce  only  thirteen   pianos.      Another  error,  stdl 
more  dangerous.     The  public  wish  to  hear  lourtccn  pian.^ 
and  if  von  Lnve  it  one  less  it  wdl  think  itselt  robbed      it 
demands  fourteen  pianos   in  full  view  on  the   I'lattorm. 
Should  you  place  somemamkms  on  it,  it  will  be  sati>iKa, 
provided  that  it  sees  there  the  number  ot  i-ianos  that  were 
announced.     The  ditHculty  was  becoming  insurmountal.le. 
San    Francisco,   although  filled  with  all   the  _  corruption 
and  with  all  the  plagues  arising  from  civilization,  <li^l  i>ot 
then  possess  but  thirteen  first-class  pianoforte  players.    J  he 
proprietor  of  the  hall,  seeing  my  embarrassment,  ottered  to 
speak  to  his  son,  an  amateur  pianist,  he  said,  of  the  first 
class,  who  played  Thalberg,  Liszt,  and  «-ttscha  k  w^iout 
difiiculty,  and  for  whom  it  would  be  only  play  to  take  the 
part  that  was  wanted  for  the  March  ot   J;i''"!'«:^^^'»- „  ^J" 
perience  has  for  a  long  time  taught  me  that  it  is  well  tor 
an   artist  to  beware  of  the.  co-operation  of  amateui-s  in 
general,  and  especially  of  those  who  play  everything  at 
first  sight,  and  make  havoc  in  playing  the  pieces  of  Liszt 
and  Thalberg.     Ihit  the  father  spoke  of  him  with  such 
assurance  that  I  accepted  his  son's  assistance  (C^od  protect 
vou,  O  artists!  from  the  fathei-s  of  am.'  teurs,_ from  the  s^ns 
theiuselves,  and  from  the  fathers  of  female  smgers !).     J  he 
concert  was  to  take  place  in  the  evening.     I  sug'^ested  that 
a  rehearsal  would   be   necessary.     Ihe   son,  who   m  the 
interval  had  been  introduced  to  me,  expressed  surprise, 
and  said  it  was  usdess.  The  part  was  very  easy ;  he  played  the 


t. 


cannot  fail  of  being 

California,  18fi5. 
<ocnto(l  on  ibnrtoon 
nged  by  myself.    h» 
to  announce  another 

0  of  the  concert  one 
todo'i  Put  off  the 
mer  is  never  Mortli 
you  must  never  put 
,  pitiless,  iicarn  to 
u ;  if  you  do  not,  it 

Another  error,  still 
hear  fourteen  jtianos, 
nk  itself  robl)e(l.  It 
}\v  on  the  platform. 
:,  it  will  be  satisficil, 
r  of  i-ianos  that  were 
ninu;  insurmountable. 

1  all  the  corrui»tion 
I  civilization,  did  not 
moforte  players.  The 
arrassnient,  otfered  to 
t,  he  said,  of  the  first 
d  Gottschalk  without 

only  play  to  take  the 
of  Tannhauser.     Kx- 
me  that  it  is  well  for 
ation  of  amateiu-s  in 
0  play  everything  at 
ins;  the  pieces  of  Liszt 
ke  of  him  with  sucli 
issistance  (God  protect 
ni  teurs,  from  the  sons 
female  singers !).     Tlie 
ing.     I  suggested  that 
riie   son,  who   in  the 
le,  exjtressed  surprise, 
:ery  easy ;  he  played  the 


THE  AMATEUR  OF  SAX  FliAXCISCO. 


879 


fantasies  of  Liszt.  I  replied  that  it  was  less  for  the  ditH- 
culty  of  execution  than  for  playing  together;  and  tiiat,  if 
lie  wished,  I  would  jilay  with  him  to  jioiiit  out  to  him  tiio 
movements.  lie  then  placed  himself  at  the  piano,  and 
like  all  amateurs,  after  having  executed  a  noisy  fiourisli, 
attacked  with  the  boldness  of  innocence  tlie  piece  of  Tann- 
hauser. At  the  end  of  two  l)ars,  my  mind  was  made  up; 
I  knew  what  1  bad  to  rel}'  on,  and  1  assure  you  that  it  was 
liot  pleasant.  It  is  not  that  he  played  l)a<lly,  if  he  played 
at  all.  The  most  complaisant  ear  would  liave  hardly  been 
able  to  distinguish  any  shreds  of  Wagner's  theme  which 
were  tloating  liero  and  there  like  waifs  in  the  midst  of  an 
ocean  of  false  notes,  in  a  deafening  storm  of  continuous 
pedal  (the  storm  cannot  be  described),  and  ol'  the  com- 
plete wreck  of  the  measure  and  spirit  of  tlie  author;  it 
was  no  longer  to  be  thought  of.  My  ]iosition  became  hor- 
rible. To  refuse  his  assistance — the  assistance  of  the  first 
amateur  in  San  Francisco!  elegant  and  rich,  who  had 
])robably  caused  to  be  circulated  among  all  his  friends  and 
all  the  good  society  of  the  city  that  he  deigned  to  give  me 
the  use  of  his  talent!  It  was  impossil)le!  The  rehearsal 
was  short,  I  did  not  even  make  a  remark ;  it  would  have 
been  of  as  much  use  as  making  an  Adonis  of  ^p]sop.  The 
father,  beaming  with  pride,  was  looking  at  me,  and,  wiping 
his  forehead,  after  the  piece,  said:  "Ah  ha!  what  did  I  tell 
you !"  The  young  man  seemed  convinced  of  his  worth,  and, 
with  the  ease  which  amateurs  only  possess  when  the  ]tul)li('  is 
in  (juestion,  repeated  to  me  many  times,  graciously  smiling, 
with  a  satisfied  little  air,  "  Oh,  yes  !  I  think  that  that  d(»es 
very  well!  Besides,  it  is  va\i/  r<is>/!"  Wo  ])arted.  I 
thought  seriously  of  putting  off  the  concert,  under  tlie 
l)retence  of  indisposition,  wlien  my  tuner,  a  man  of  re- 
sources, said  to  me  :  "  Sir,  if  this  young  man  plays,  trouble 
is  inevitable  with  the  other  pianos;  it  is  absolutely  neces- 
sary to  prevent  his  being  heard,  and  the  only  way  to  do  it 
is  this'' — and  at  the  same  moment  he  pushed  a  croclict  in 
the  piano  I  designed  for  the  amateur,  a  vertical  i)iano,  took 
out  the  whole  of  the  interior  mechanism,  and,  looking 
triumphantly  at  me,  added  :  "  The  keyboard  remains,  but 
I  assure  you  that  there  will  be  no  more  false  notes."  The 
mode  was  excellent. 


380 


NOTES  OF  A  PfAMST. 


The  evening  oiiiiie.  The  hall  was  full.  My  amaUMir,  in 
white  cravat  and  evenini;  dress,  was  showing  hiinscU"  in  the 
liall.  His  friends  awaited  the  moment  of  his  .'Utranee  with 
iniliiitienee.  He  reiinested  me  to  give  him  a  i^iano  near  the 
footlights  in  full  view  (for  it  nuis't  be  stated  that  amateurs, 
who  siiould  he  less  familiarized  with  the  ]»nhlie,  have  an 
imi)assil)ility  and  saii(j  froid  which  we  never  aci^uire — 
uitain  innocence). 
^  I  placed  his  dumh  jiiano  in  the  middle  of  the  stage,  close 

to  tlie  promi)tei'. 

Uefore  going  on  the  stage,  I  nmde  my  thirteen  acolytes 
take  notice,  tluit,  in  order  to  produce  the  greatest  effect,  it 
was  indispensable  not  to  make  any  i)reludes,  that  thus  the 
jtuhlie  might  be  more  surprised  on  hearing  all  at  once  the 
fourteen  pianos  attack  the  flourish  of  trumpets  with  which 
the  ^hirch  in  Tannhauscr  commences. 

One,  two,  three— we  begin.  It  goes  on  marvellously. 
In  tlie  midst  of  the  piece  I  looked  at  my  amateur:  he  was 
superb ;  he  was  sweating  great  drojts ;  he  was  throwing 
his  eyes  carelessly  on  tiieauilience,  and  performed  with 
miraculous  ease  the  passages  apparently  the  most  difficult. 
His  friends  were  in  raptures.     They  applauded  to  excess, 

^ome  enthusiasts  even  cried  out,  "  Hurrah  for 1"  (the 

amateur's  name).  '•  Encore  1"  "Encore!!"  We  must  re- 
l»eat  the  i)iece.  But  at  the  moment  of  commencing  the 
amateur  forgot  my  recommendation  not  to  prelude,  and 
could  not  resist  the  tennitation  to  play  a  little  chromatic 
scale.  I  see  him  now !  The  stupor  whicli  was  printed  on 
liis  countenance  is  inexpressible.  He  recfmimenced  his 
scale.  Nothing.  The  piano  was  mute.  For  an  instant 
he  had  the  idea  that  the  ardour  with  which  lie  had  played 
had  been  fatal  to  the  strings,  hut,  throwing  a  glance  inside, 
he  saw  them  all  right.  AVithout  doubt  it  Is  the  pedals, 
and,  after  some  shakes  impressed  on  the  pedals,  he  began 
airain  his  little  chromatic  scale.  Then,  persuaded  that  the 
pTano  was  just  out  of  order,  he  strove  to  make  me  under- 
stand that  we  could  not  begin  again  the  March. 

"Pst!  pst! !"  said  he  with  a  wiUl  air,  hut  I  had  seen  the 
danger,  and  without  loss  of  time,  I  had  given  the  signal 
and' the  ^h^rch  was  reconmienced.  ^ly  young  man,  to  save 
appearances  before  the  audience,  made  the  pantomime  of 


1.  My  amatonr,  in 
ivinji;  hiiiisc'U"  in  tho 
if  liirt  .'ntrunce  with 
ini  a  ]iian()  near  tho 
afcd  that  amateurs, 
tho  publii',  have  an 
0    novor   a('<iuii'o — 

Ic  of  the  stago,  close 

iiy  thirtoon  acolytes 
he  greatest  ottect,  it 
lules,  that  thus  the 
ring  all  at  once  tho 
•urnpets  with  which 

.'8  on  marvellously, 
ly  amateur :  ho  was 
;  ho  was  throwing 
nd  performed  with 
y  tho  most  difficult, 
ipplauded  to  excess. 

rrah  for 1"  (the 

e ! ! "  We  must  ro- 
of commencing  the 
not  to  prelude,  and 
Ely  a  little  chromatic 
hicli  was  printetl  on 
o  recommenced  his 
te.  For  an  instant 
^■hich  he  had  played 
rving  a  glance  inside, 
ht  it  i!s  the  pedals, 
the  pedals,  he  began 
,  persuaded  that  the 
i  to  make  me  under- 
le  March. 

r,  hut  I  had  seen  the 
ad  given  the  signal 
i  young  man,  to  save 
e  the  pantouume  of 


1 


Tm:  SECIIKT  DISCLOSED. 


381 


the  passages,  hut  his  countenance,  which  T  saw  from  helow, 
was  worth  painting,  it  was  a  mixture  of  diseouragenient  and 
of  s])ite.  The  fury  with  which  he  struck  the  poor  instru- 
ment, which  could  do  nothing,  was  vt'ry  funny. 

"That  was  very  well  done,  gentlemen,"  I  siiid,  on  enter- 
ing into  .he  artists'  room,  "Ijut  the  eil'ect  was  less  than 
the  tirst  time." 

''The  mischief!"  said  my  amateur  to  me,  "my  jiiano 
broke  all  at  once." 

The  secret  was  kept  a,  long  time  by  my  tuner,  but  it 
finally  leaked  out,  or  at  least  1  had  reason  for  sniiposing  it 
did  from  the  furious  glance  that  my  unfortunate  amateur 
threw  on  me  one  day  that  I  happened  to  salute  him  on 
meeting  him  in  the  street. 

Moral — beware  of  amateurs. 

I  have  been  to  mass  at  the  French  church.  The  ])riest, 
from  Auvergne,  gave  us  a  sei-mon  which  would  have 
been  oidy  grotesque,  if  it  had  not  been  the  height  of 
imjiropriety  and  absurdity  in  a  temple  consecrated  to  (Jod. 

The  evidently  limited  hitelligence  of  this  unfortunate 
priest,  jdaced  at  the  service  of  a  nasal  and  monotonous 
organ,  like  that  of  tlie  child  -eii  who  reiieat  without  any 
inflexion  of  their  voice  and  without  punctuation  lessons 
which  they  do  not  understand — had  suggested  to  him  a 
digression  on  the  dogma  of  the  Blessed  N'irgin,  i\  propos 
of  the  month  of  Ahiry.  After  some  commonplaces, 
drawn  from  the  children's  catechism,  tMs  is  nearly  the 
luminous  theory  which  he  expressed.  Ho  wore  spectacles 
and  had  a  nervous  trick,  every  time  the  flow  of  liis  ideas 
threatened  to  be  exhausted  (and  this  hapi)ened  every  two 
or  throe  words),  of  carrying  with  a  convulsive  movement 
his  hand  to  his  nose,  to  be  certain  that  his  spectacles  were 
firndy  fixed,  then  coughed, and  continued: — 

"  ^les  chera  freras.  Elu  Vierge  il  a  ete  achoinsio  a  parcc 
qu'il  une  bonne  fenime.  Ac  'telle  ou'alle  a  eleve  k 
I'enfant  Jesus.  Veres  savez  toxis  combien  les  meres  oixt 
do  mal  pour  elever  leure  enfants.  C'est  elle  qu'a  pris 
soin  du  sien  que  elle  a  nourri.  II  lui  doit  tout  k  sa  mere 
et  alle  a  i)ris  sur  lui  le  droit  de  lui  demander  ses  favours. 
Aussi  a[»res  il  a  toujoura  fait  tout  pour  lui  etrtj  agreable. 


jl 


882 


NOTES  OF  A  PUStST. 


A.msi,  nnios  Chora  fivn.s  vouHtro  lucll.'uro  rooommcnda- 
tioii  ost  do  vous  a(l<lri"ssor  iV  la  \  um\'u  Maru'. 

Tht>  iKToratioii  of  thu  sermon  irt  too  original  tor  mi-  not 

to  favour  you  with  it,  ,    .  •  ^      ^^     /   i:  ,  ,.,..  il 

"II  V  a  pas  heaiu-oui)  do  moi.dc  loi  A  octto  6.u;liso,  ma  il 
V  a  dos  pamissos  qui  out  phis  do  famillos  (luo  la  paroisso 
fie  San  Franoisco  ot  i-uis  alios  out  lours  oooupationsot  i-ms 
boauooup  do  oes  famillos  qui  m  ont  sont  obligeos  do  rosti-i 
it,  la  maison  i>our  on  prondro  soin."  . 

This  rigman^lo  workod  on  my  norvos.  It  is  mnvorthv 
of  the  Catholic  roligion  to  i.ormit  suoh  indooonoios  And 
I  admit  that  tho  i'rotostants  would  havo  toiind  tault  it 
thov  imdoi-stood  Frcnoh.  Fortunatoly  the  numhor  ot 
rovoronds  who  speak  this  language,  which  ho  much  in- 
fidel literature  has  Hulliod,  is  in  tho  inverse  ratio  ot  tliou 
hatred  for  tho  doctrines  of  free  thought. 

Virginia  City,  Territory  of  Nevada,  June  4,  ISOr). 
We  havo  at  last  arrived.      The  dork,  an.  impudently 
pompous  genius,  extended  on  his  chair  behind  the  .losk, 
.is  feet  as  high  as  his  head,  after  havm- made  us  tool  bv 
liis  iieromptoiy  tone  the  incommensurable  distance  w-hicli 
soiuratos   iiooV  travellei-s   from   a  'hotel  clerk     grants  us 
permissioi/  to  install  ourselves  at  the  rate  ot  thirty-tiyo 
dollars  per  day  in  a  chamber  six  teet  sfpiare.     I  timidly 
ask  if  there  is  not  a  larger  one,  hut  he  answoi-s  me  an.n-ily, 
"Nol"  in  such  a  way  as  to  make  me  understand  tliat  i 
must  not  abuse  his  patience,  under  pain  of  being  driven 
out  of  the   little  hole  he   has  been  wiUmg  to  give  me. 
F«)rtunatoly,  to  the  hotel  a  restaurant  is  attached,  kept   l)y 
a  Frenchman,  who  with  all  the  simplicity  ot  his  nation 
tells  me  his  troubles— always  the  same-ot  shares  taken  in 
the  mines  which  ought  to  pay  immense  dividends  and 
which  ruin  all  who  have  them. 

The  town  is  ugly— built  of  wood  on  rough  ground. 
The  streets  are  steep  and  irregular.  The  cates  are  nunior- 
ous  The  music  store  is  a  slioemakors  shop,  two-tliinis 
of  which  is  tilled  with  boots  and  tho  rest  with  drawers 
and  loose  sheets  of  music,  which  would  seem  to  l'i;ovc' tliat 
tho  population  walks  more  over  the  rugged  soil  ot  the 
town  than  on  the  road  florid  with  art.    It  is  not  truly  to 


VI/lGf.\fA  CfTY. 


888 


llcnro  rcoomnuMuliv 

laru'." 

ungiiial  lor  hk'  not 

\  octto  6u;liso,  ma  il 
Ik'rt  ([uo  la  jtarnisse 
(H'cuiiatioiis,  ct  imirt 
it  obliget'ri  <le  ivstiT 

cs.  It  is  unwortliy 
1  in(loceiu'it.'s.  Aiitl 
liavo  tbuiul  tinilt  it" 
•ly  the  number  of 
wlui'li  HO  nnu'h  in- 
nvorsc  ratio  of  their 
t. 

f  Nevada,  June  4,  1865. 

•rk,  an,  immulontly 
lir  Ix'liind  the  desk, 
iiiiT  made  lis  feel  bv 
•alilc  distance  wliieh 
itvl  clerk,'  grants  us 
0  rate  of  tliirty-tlve 
t  square.  I  timidly 
:  answers  me  angrily, 
le  understand  tliat  I 
|)ain  of  being  driven 

willing  to  give  me. 

is  attached,  kept  by 
plicity  of  his  nation 
L^ — of  shares  taken  in 
uonse  dividends  and 

d  on  rough  ground. 
The  cafes  are  nuiner- 
er's  shop,  two-thirds 
10  rest  with  drawers 
Id  seem  to  ])rove  that 
0  rugged  soil  of  the 
:t.    tt"  is  not  truly  to 


s|K'ak  a  town,  it  has  rather  the  appearance  of  one  of  those 
JMiropean  liiirs,  which  once  a  3'car  attract  lor  two  months 
merchants  and  jturciiascrs  from  the  four  points  of  the 
horizon.  The  dust  blinds  when  it  doi-s  not  choke  you, 
and  vice  versa,  and  botli  at  once.  Shut  up  in  the  midst  of 
Hti'cp  mountains,  the  sight  perceives  as  far  as  it  can  extend 
only  the  gray  tints  of  tlu'  ariil  soil,  or  the  sombre  masses 
of  the  sage,  tlu!  only  vc<''';table  that  grows.  Jt  is  meagre, 
sad,  mean,  and  monotoii  .us.  I  have  never  really  known 
splein  save  in  Virginia  (Mty.  Tt  is  the  most  inhospitable 
and  the  saddest  town  that  I  have  ever  visited.  J  have 
passed  eleven  days  lierc,  during  which  1  have  given  three 
concerts.  I  have  not  receive<l  from  the  inhabitants  one 
invitation,  not  one  visit,  nor  any  mark  of  distinction.  I 
fortunately  found  here  a  family  i'rom  New  Orleans,  whom 
the  vicissitudes  of  fortune  have  ti'iiiporarily  banished  here, 
and  a  young  Louisianian,  who,  by  their  inten-st,  sometimes 
contributed  to  dissiitate  the  ennui  of  my  isolation. 

Sunday,  sitting  m  my  chamber,  the  window  opening 
on  my  rerrace,  1  was  enjoying  the  only  advantage  wbieli 
Virginia  City  possesses,  a  pure  sky,  \Vbiz,  splash,  whitf, 
whew — good  (Jod!  AVhat  <loes  this  mean?  I  was  almost 
inundated  and  upset  by  a  column  of  water  which  continued 
to  invade  my  room.  "  That  is  nothing,"  said  a  servant  to 
me,  "  they  are  only  the  firemen  who  are  exercising  and 
amusing  themselves." 

Every  morning  I  go  out  with  the  firm  intention  of  com- 
forting my  conseieiice  by  letting  the  truth  be  known,  which, 
like  steam  too  long  compressed,  chokes  me,  that  Virginia  City 
is  the  saildest,  the  most  Avearisonie,  the  most  inhospitable 
jtlace  on  the  globe;  but  the  tiivt  ])erson  that  I  meet  asks  mo 
the  same  (juestion  which  is  jtut  invariably  to  every  stranjxer 
■who  arrives,  by  every  iidiabitant  of  Virginia  i'ity,  who 
speaks  to  him — "  AVell,  sir,  hnr  do  yoii  find  '•>•)•  pfucc  f  and 
on  the  countenance  of  your  interlocutor  you  read  so  legibly 
that  he  expects  you  to  find  it  with  him  tFie  l  yest,  the 'most 
beautiful,  the  richest,  and  most  polished  in  this  ])art  of 
the  world,  that  you  do  not  feel  you  have  the  courage  to 
destroy  his  illusions  and  the  happiness  they  cause  him. 
You  drive  back  the  compressed  va[iour  of  your  discontent, 
and  answer  him  with  a  doubtful  "hem!"  which  he  natu- 


1 


884 


yoTKS  OF  A  riAMST. 


rnllv  trnnslat.s  a.  un^m.^rw-  in  xvlu.t  !.;•  tljink.,  an.l  l.o 
iid.U  with  mi  nir  of  Haiisfu'd  i.ntlL',  "  >  «'n  '"'t  'f  '-^  •    ,.    . 

„ol,<Mlv,ox.H.i.t  tlH-.l.u-t..ran.l  tlu- Lonismuuu.s,..!  ^vl.o... 
have  al  va<lv  HiK.ki'n,i....uitv.l  attiT  nu-.       lavintr  asUfl  1.  i 
V  an,      atoi-  a    ci-l.t  ..Vio-k  i„  tho  t.vonmjr,  tlu- pompom 

kiiuliifss  to  jrc't  Honio  from  tho  FiviM-h  restaurant  kivper  in 
tln'  iii'i"'iil)ourlitK)(l.  ,.,.,,  4   1 

I  lu.-in  tosu.i.<..t  tl.at  those  Frond.  mh.U-ls  so  oorruptod, 
nu.l  An'I.oso  literature  is  so  inunoral  {ruir  \  o\Unvo  nn.l 
Kousseau),  are  less  ignorant  tluin  some  have  ^'M'l'j "*•;'» 
those  Hmall  virtues,  suc-h  as  chanty,  generosity,  and  knul- 

June  0. 

T  h«ave  for  Pavton  in  the  stage.     The  heat  is  exeessiyo 
fortunately  the  .listanee  is  only  six  nnles     '^^^'^^^^P^ 
Htron.'  horses,  in  one  hour  we  shall    he  there.     I   reckon 

X^ut  the  driver.  Ho  passes  thro.^h  the  I'nnnpal  ^tiv  t 
of  Vir-inia  Citv,  and  takes  up  two  other  passenger.,  an  erne 
1  reo  mitside  and  nine  inside.  The  stage  can  only  comtort- 
ahly  contai.1  eight.  Wo  stop  he  ore  the  l'"^;'!'  ^  .'  ^^  ^^ 
irives  us  a  hasket  of  moat.  "(4ood  day,  Jo,  very  ^^"ln»/^- 
day;  Avill  you  hand  this  hasket  of  meat  to  someone  near  o 
B?il-er  CityV"  Hua!  hi.t!  w-  ^^^  out  ^U^^- .;:^<^;  ^ 
wife  wishes  to  go  there  also,  have  you  any   ;  acc  '■  A  > 

1  ce!  hut,  yesf  there  is."  Slie  gc^ts  up.  /Fho  ^  ;?^^ 
nio,  the  dust  Winds  mo,  I  hogin  to  lose  patience.  "  In  or 
"hen  will  you  go?"     "What,  mister,  are  you  in  such 

1  TV '"     (ThiH  Ts  said  with  a  certahi  emi.hasis,  suggesting 

he  /<;  thit  he  is  not  in  a  hurry.)  ,lI'V''Ai^-lf"'  "  vf  up' 
we  hoar  "  Driver,  I  want  to  go  to  Gold  Mill.  <  -  -t  p, 
tliere  is  room:"  a  new  passenger  who  gets  inside  A  to  .t 
certain  time  wo  find  ourselves  in  the  suhurhs  ot  ^  H\i- "'^. 
aty  We  have  added  to  our  h.a<I  three  haske  s,  a  ro  1  o 
wdl  payor  and  a  trunk,  which  is  hetwoon  my  le-s!  A  hit 
mm  w  o  sT  tting  on  tile  hood  ahove  mo,  puts,  with  unpor- 
^Ko'olness,  his  hoots  upon  n.-lumklor ;  two  hi  ,  nx^ 
faced  women,  fiankod  with  cahas,  with  pai^isol.,  under  pie 
tenee  ot  hdll^  afraid,  allow  Jo  to  gallantly  hoist  them  m  the 


1h'  tliinkrJ,  aii<l  lio 
I  lu't  it  i>  ." 
lioiit  ('oiitriwru'tion, 
■i'miiiiiiis,  ()t'\vli(>iii  I 
llavnitr  iiskfd  tor 
i'iiiii,ir,  tin-  iKiiniions 
liis  ibrtmiiitt'ly  tlio 
■cstaiiraiit  \u'c\M'  in 

iitidi'lrt  HO  cnrrnittotl, 

(rule  Voltaire   ami 

I'  have  supiiostMl  of 

'iKTosity,  ami  kind- 

■liino  9. 

ho  lioat  if<  oxccssivo, 
iU'rf.     ^\'c  liavo  four 
\k'.  tluTo.     T  m-koii 
I  tlio  itriiiciiial  stirot 
or  i»assons>;ofs,  wo  are 
mo  can  only  comibrt- 
'tlio  biitcllorV,  who 
^•,  Jo,  vory  warm  to- 
;  to  some  one  near  to 
it  attain.     ".To,   my 
any-  placo?"     "  Any 
up.     The  sun   bakes 
>  patience.     "  Driver, 
r,  are  you  in  such  a 
omphasis,  sujrticsting 
lardly  started  again, 
)ld  Mill."     "<Jetup, 
gots  inside.     After  a 
:  suburbs  of  Virginia 
iroe  baskets,  a  roll  of 
ween  my  legs !  A  fat 
me,  puts,  with  imper- 
aioulder ;  two  fat,  red 
h  ytarasols,  under  pro- 
mtly  hoist  them  in  the 


Tin:  itiDi:  TO  iKXYTos,  si:vM).\.  386 

midst  of  lh(!  other  nnfortimato  inside  passengers,  wlioro 
tlii-y  HUccci'd  in  ileposiling  their  eor|inlent  Itodies.  "■('ling, 
clang,"  wo  aro  rollini;  along.  (My  neighltonr  to  the  riglit 
speaking  to  .lo-.j  *' 'I'iioso  poopK'  wi'  took  up  at  the  Inter- 
national, aro  they  not  a  [tart  of  tin-  travelling  company  at  11 
dollar  and  a  half  a  ticket  'i"  "Vos,"  answered  do.  "Ahl 
speak  to  nu'.  of  iSilly,  lu'  is  worth  one  dollar  and  a  half;  he 
was  (load drunk  every  evening,  although  a  eharining  fellow." 
'i'hereupon  ho  lurni'd  roun<l  to  take  notice  of  theaumii  'on 
which  what  ho  had  Just  said  proiliieed.  "  Stop,  driver,  I 
am  going  to  i)aytonl"  '•'There  is  room,  get  up."  My 
neighbour  above  me  draws  back  to  make  room  for  the  ni'W 
itassi'iigor,  and  thrusts  his  two  boots  on  my  right  shoulder. 
This  tnrnished  an  oppi>rtiniity  to  the  lattir  to  place  his  upon 
my  other  shoulder,  and  liore  1  am  between  the  two.  \V'o 
urrivo  at  the  toll-gate.  J  am  as  rod  as  a  lobster,  my  noso 
peels.  'I'ho  dust  iilinds  mo.  'I'he  sweat  which  1  w  ipo  off 
from  my  face  would  servo  for  nioilar.  Our  driver  poacealtly 
continues  his  journey,  taking  up  many  ]iassengers  with  his 
imperturbable  "  Ph-nty  of  room."  At  the  toll-gate,  I  tiet 
rid  of  the  trunk  bi'twoon  my  logs.  Iiotwoen  tlu-  basket, 
which  raises  my  foot  several  inches  abovo  th"  tloor,  and 
the  boots  of  my  companions  above  me  which  mal<«'  mo 
bend  my  back,  I  had  the  appearance  ol' one  of  those  Chinoso 
grotos(|uo  figiu'os,  squatting  down,  the  chin  at  the  top  of 
the  knoos,  which  ornament  the  otagores.  After  two  hours 
of  siitfering  wx'  arrived  at  Dayton.  Dayton  has  but  one 
street,  or  rather  has  none,  seeing  that  the  town  is  conlinod, 
or  nearly  so,  to  about  one  hundreil  houses,  which  line 
the  road. 

Dayton,  Ni'vncla,  Tnno  0. 

A  small  village,  seven  miles  from  ^'ii-ginia  City.  Sitting 
before  tho  door  of  the  inn,  I  am  tranquilly  smoking  my 
cigar,  awaiting  tho  hour  for  my  concert.  All  at  once  I 
hoar  at  some  distance  the  noise  of  a  largo  drum.  "  What 
is  that?"  to  tho  landlord.  "  Why,"  says  ho,  looking  at 
mo,  "is  not  your  concert  for  to-night?  Well,  now,  tlu'y 
are  drumming  to  call  the  crowd."  A  ragannitHn  riishod 
through  the  street  ringing  a  boll  from  door  to  door  "to 
call  tho  crowd ;"  but  the  linest  part  of  the  affair  is  that  for 
33 


■i 


'.m 


NOTES  or  A  riAMST. 


Wn  .nit.utos  tl.o  .In.nm  a.ul  th.  luj;  <  ni  n  an  .lU.  t.     A 

Hum..,n.k..l  l.y  two.liun.s,tl.c  nn^a- <.l  tla-  ..11  an.l  tl,  ■ 
l,i..  .Iniiu,  wl'...  havi.  r..nio  for  u  "  run  up  to  tlu"  hI.uw  I 
'.'.Strive  to  m-ai..,una  lly  like  u  hare  tnm.  '.ar  ot  tho.. 

'''Tl.'ol.!.l'rot-  the  thcatro  i-^  lightodCO  by  tl.iv..  or  Iniir 
H.noUinu'  Arpi.ul  hunps.      Th.  .tap-  is  ho  dark    hat  o,„- 
'Ivrt  ha.  mtlKT  thi  look  of  a.,  .xlnhiti...,  ..»  the  Ht.n- 
optirnn.     Our  ai..lioiu-o  cMi/iHtH  ..t   a  tew  fiual.'s    U'U  01 
tvi'lve  hnvs,  inclu.liMu^  theniu   the  tw..  .Innus,  the   bass 
,,,,„„,  „„.l  ,1...  1k.11.     The  halau.e  «.v  .uiiutk  ;n  lartre  tlan- 
,..1  shiptH,  with  pautalooMH  tun.e.l  uiM.ver  t  a.r  larije  .out 
Ti,,i,  lar.v  (  alilon.ian  hatn  niv  ot  gnv  le  t  nv,  h  hroa  I 
i   ,'      i)o  not  hasten  to  ,.o„ehale  ;tVon,  'h.s  that  they  were 
turl.uU-nt.     Thev  listen  attentively,  and  the.r  .le.i.nt  and 
rauMMil  denu-anour  woul.l  eause  shame  to  n.any  and  e  ues 
1   at  i.rilen.l  to  the  retin.'nu'nts  of  en  ih/ation.     It  is  not 
■sdUthe  lirst   tina.  that  1  have  had  the  ..,.,.or  un, tv  o 
takin-   .oti.eofthisla.t  in  a  Cahlornian  aiahenee.      Ih  u 
reteuded  rud..ness,  whi.-h  1  have  so  o  ten  heard  ^poke    o  , 
L.H   Imek  to  the   l-nnruive  tin.es  ol    the  ,nn,er.ol..>s. 
M'hev  are  now  nn.eh  n.ore  retiuid,  Letter  e.lu.atid  than  the 
'  KVr  AVest;     1  repiat  it,  I  have  rarely  seen  a  inon-  peaee- 
i',  1    .oi.ulation.     1    is  true  that  I  ua.ke  my  protrran.nies  as 
.  in   le  >ss  hie.    It  would  he  as  ah.sr.rd  to  play  lor  then, 

p  .  vH  ver  '  dilKeult  to  nndersta.u  1,  or  elass.nd  n.us.e,  as  to 
!;  vehoelsteaks  to  a  newU-horn  infant.      •  »';\v  have  ne  er 
Card  the  piano,  a.al  of  all  instrunu.nts  ,t  ,s  the  most      Ih- 
<.ult   to  remler  eomi-ri-la-nsive  to  an  audience   who  h.,%c 
,1  ,  ost  or  never  heard  n.usie.      K.ery  n.strument  wh.eh 
^om  its  nature  endnaees. multiple  n.nhn.at^u.ns  ot  scnuaK 
in  ohseure  to  an  ear  that  is  not  aeeustomed  to  1       b        d) 
irt  the  .-oneert  ende.l,  than  a  youn-  girl  i>ut  ot  the  audien.e 
no  nts  the  platforn.  and  n'.ietly  turns  out  t lu- only  Argand 
t  aLave  liL'ht,  whether  poorly  or  well,  to   his  part  ot  the 
ex   ild    ou     I  B.ppose  sheSs  the  daughter  ..f  the  propneto,-, 
^n        would  waier  that  she  will  ho  a  vrcH.ouH  "-.l'"«;^";  ' 
?o  the  hushand  who  shall  marry  her.     At  te.i  oel    k     t 
nijrht,we  iiot  into  the  sta.i^e  agam  to  ^oUirn  to  \  irgm  a 
Cny.     This  time  I  am  sitting  alone  near  the  dnver.     Iho 


I 


T. 

ilriiiii  arc  (|Uh't.  At 
«Ih  till'  llR-aliv  1  iim 
of  till-  IkII,  iiiitl  III'- 
up  t<»  till'  hlinw."  1 
I'o  from  'I'lir  of  tliorto 

(V)  liy  thri'*'  or  four 
is  HO  (lurk  tliiit  our 
liiiiitioii  of  the  Hti'ri'- 
fi'W  fiimilt'H,  ti'U  or 
two  (Irmiis,  till'  l)iisft 
ruiui'rrt  iu  lariif  tlaii- 
o\i'r  tlicir  lart;i'  liootf<. 
^ray  fi'lt  with  broatl 
III  'I'lis  that  thi-y  were 
luid  thi'ir  (li'ti'iit  au<l 
ui'  to  iiiauy  aiitlu'iii'i'rt 
vili/atioii.     It  if*  not, 
111  tlu'  oiiiiortunitv  of 
iiiiiii  aiidiciiti'.     'I  heir 
Dfti'U  heard  Hpokeu  of, 
f  the  uiiiu'r-eolouists. 
tter  etlueated  thai'  the 
ely  Heeli  a  more  peaee- 
ke  my  jiroirrammes  aw 
(si-.rd  to  pliiy  for  them 
r  classical  music,  as  to 
lut.     They  have  never 
iits  it  is  the  most  dilH- 
u  audience   who  have 
cry  instrument  which 
)iultinationH  of  soinids, 
^tomed  to  it.     Scarc(;ly 
;irl  i>ut  of  the  audience 
iiHOut  the  oidy  Arj^and 
veil,  to  this  part  of  the 
irhterof  the  jiroprietor, 
?  a  precious  acquiaition 
er.     At  ten  o'clock  at 
I  to  return  to  Virginia 
e  near  the  driver.     The 


77//;  rw'o  i.('n:iis\ 


087 


Weather  is  su]ierl».  The  mooiillirht  is  splendid.  Tlie  sky 
aliove  our  head  is  of  u  somlire  liliic,  in  which,  Lke  detached 
diamonds,  the  .«<tars  sliiiie  out.  ( In  t|i«'  horizon,  the  niotui- 
taiiis,  liathcd  iu  transparent  vapours,  j^ive  to  the  landscape 
the  appearance  of  a  liiiry  scene. 

'I'he  moiiiitaiiis  are  hroutjht  so  near  that,  seen  from  the 
hciu'hf  where  We  are,  thi'oijiih  this  Itliie  vapour,  they  scciii 
til  he  ihe  waves  of  ail  o<can,  which,  hy  a  iiiagiial  cH'cct, 
have  hci'onie  petritled  in  the  midst  of  a  tt'iiipct.  Tim 
ln'ce/.e,  whi<'h  Mows  softly,  hi'insis  to  us  the  thoiisind  dis- 
tant soiMids  from  the  dee[i  valleys  and  high  peaks.  A  hir  I 
coiu'ealed  at  the  hottom  of  the  nreeipice  inaKeH  its  monoto- 
nous soiig  heard,  compost'd  of  tiirei'  notes,  which  it  re]icatii 
without  inteniiption. 

At  the  tiU'M  of  the  road  we  perceive  at  the  tof»  of  the 
mountain,  along  the  sides  of  which  our  road  winds,  an 
Indian.  My  driver,  it  appears,  has  liveil  a  long  time  among 
them.  They  are,  said  he,  very  peaceful,  and  Ic^s  lazy  than 
the  majt>rily  of  their  race.  They  go  to  Virginia  City  every 
day,  and  are  employed  in  carrying  waicr,  hurdeiis,  etc.  It 
must  he  said  that  they  have  no  staltle  occupations.  The 
Indian  only  lives  fiom  day  to  day, and  would  ne\er  he  ahle 
to  accustom  himself  to  any  iiernianent  work.  Their  wives 
are  very  chaste.  She  who  is  uiitiiithfiil  is  condemned  hy 
the  triite  and  put  to  death.  I.ast  year  the  peo|)le  of  (lold 
Hill  went  to  giither,  at  the  proper  season,  ]tiiie-coneH  in  the 
Woods  of  Ihe  neighhoiM'ing  mountain.  A  young  Indian 
woman  and  one  of  the  yoinur  ^t^<'i\  of  CJold  Jlill  nu't.  They 
loved  eaeh  other.  Some  tune  after  the  two  lovers  were 
surprised  hy  an  Indian  of  the  trihe  coming  out  of  the 
tunnel  of  the  Uphir  Mine.  lie  showed  no  resentment,  and 
even  accepted  some  money  whicli  the  young  man  offered 
him  to  secure  his  silence.  The  next  day  the  Iiody  of  tlu' 
poor  Indian  girl  was  found  in  the  tunnel  of  the  Uphir  Mine. 


1 


888 


]S!OTES  or  A  PIASI-^T. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

June  13,  18C5. 

Viri?iuia  City  i'^  such  that  my  ju^  .^  ^^^^ 

«»;l  "  ^;S^^i^^^  otLonvi.  you  would 

r;Xl  JtgK  a  .■ivor-fto  Tujkcy  I  ..ehevo 

-'"  »^  '-'t'^nrrsrouXaH^-r^f-pin^^  Te 
are  nunreroiia.     "«  1"'» .""  .  y,i,»  mountains  arc  aea  n 

covered  ^v.tU  fX^n„„n  X  Jd  »'''°'  *"  '      '""""^'  "' 
fr:c:uf"welrc  S  iSJe,of  whom  one  i»  a  lady 
Mn™ck,I  asked  a  man  who  ocnuuc  a  c„mm- it  he 
^;  „d^J,ange  places  ^.^^.^^^J.  ^ wl 


DUTCH  FLAT. 


389 


June  13,  18C5. 

c,    Ilaviuc;  thuiiUy 
fifteen  dollars  tVoin 
;  antli'ily   (pi*ol)af)ly 
i),  "  that  ho  hatl  no 
now  more  1        I  tyll 
^,  aiul  that  ends  it ; 
:e  yon  pay  sixty  dol- 
m  you!"     Amiable 
y  last  impression  of 
cavhis  it  can  be  still 
did  not  appear  to  me 
-   the   Turks   in  the 
'.e  pui'pose  of  finding 
voly  cool,  it  is  neecs- 
urpose  of  afterwards 
otherwise  you  would 

its  its  didl  and  sickly 
les  to  be  mean,  but 
Turkey,  I  believe— 
y  bottom.    The  trees 
forest  of  pines.    The 
mountains  are  agaiji 
its  are  replaced  with 
adds  to  the  beauty  of 
whom  one  is  a  lady, 
xnipied  a  corner  if  he 
noment,  as  I  was  suf- 
).   He  refuses  mo  w\th 
anity  1  When  will  thy 
:ures  ?     Politeness  is  a 
an  one  side  to  charity. 


and,  so  long  as  oui-  fi'llow-fonntrymen  shall  atlect  to  des[iiso 
politeness,  tliey  will  be  savages  and  not  Cliristians. 

"•I  bet  you  it  is  the  place  to  get  a  good  dinner,  ^'irginia 
is  the  place,  you  l)et.  There  ain't  a  plaee  in  the  wurl<l 
(nothing  short  of  the  world  would  do),  you  bet,  where  you 
can  live  better  tlian  in  Virginia."  This  is  from  my  neigh- 
bour who  gives  vent  to  his  feelings,  having  hail  a  bad  sup- 
per at  the  previous  station. 

The  night,  a  dreadful  night,  fortunate!}'  com]iensated  for 
by  glimpses  of  a  magnificent  nature  which  the  moon  lighted 
up,  ]iassed  slowly. 

Tlie  lady  at  the  back  complains  that  her  neighliour  in  the 
middle  crowds  her  too  nuu'h,  or  that  thi'  one  ojiposite  treads 
u]ion  her  feet;  all  the  awkwardness  that  I  have  met  with 
scarcely  ever  takes  ]tlace  in  stages  but  during  the  night. 

The  first  rays  of  day  at  last  illuminate  our  fin-es — dirt}', 
covered  with  dust,  our  eyes  swollen  from  want  of  sleep,  etc. 
We  arrive  at  Dutch  Flat,  a  pretty  little  village,  conceak-d 
at  the  bottom  of  a  w  ooded  gorge  like  a  nest  in  a  l)ush.  I'lie 
neat,  white  houses  are  covered  with  magnificent  rose  bushes, 
whose  fif)wers  cover  the  trellis  as  high  as  the  root.  They 
are  small  frame  houses  very  neat,  very  small,  etc. 

Concert  this  evening.  Almost  one  huntlred  and  seventj' 
persons.  Audience  very  quiet — very  quiet  becuuse  they  do 
not  applaud.  It  is  true  that  they  di(l  not  otherwise  show 
their  discontent.  I  very  much  suspect  that  they  regretted 
their  dollar  and  a  half.  "Taken  in,"  said  one  of  them  some 
time  afterwards,  and  added,  to  console  himself,  "  It  is  true 
that  for  once  it  is  nothing."  It  will  be  the  givers  of 
concerts  after  mc  who  will  feel  their  resentment.  I  still 
camiot  help  remarking  the  proprietj'  of  conduct  of  these 
audiences  who,  howe'ci  wearisome  our  nm.ic  nuist  a[>poar 
to  them,  submit  to  it  without  protest. 

It  often  happens  to  mo  when  pL'n'ing  to  look  at  my 
audience.  Tliere  are  certain  passages  where  I  am  so  ac- 
customed to  see  their  countenances  brighten  up,  that  in 
civilized  audiences  I  am  wont  to  consider  it  an  indissolu- 
ble thing  like  cause  and  ettect.  For  exanqole,  the  close  of 
'Murmures  Eoliens'  or  even  'Last  Hope,'  or  tia-  end  of 
'Ojos  Criolos.'  Here,  I  ]>erceive(l  that  it  is  exactly  as  if  I 
was  speaking  Chinese;  tlicy  hardly  understand  it,  and  in- 


I 


y,,Q  yOlTS  OF  A  riAMST. 

.luUitivdy  rcjranl  mo  oM-rtiu.  n.ysoinvitl.  that  ';'u;>ous  a,,a 
vicmt  air  which  other  iiruonmiuscs,  lor  install.,  la^t  upon 
h  .  k  n  <.f  a  tc-U.un-ai.h' operator.  How  n,any  things  there 
nrc  o  earn,  we  otten  cry  out  1  Vomo  here,  a;,<l  m  seeing 
Zse  alanenVos,  you  will  see  how  many  things  u  is  possible 

to  he  iiiuorant  of.  ...  i  •4.,..:ii 

To  give  vou  an  idea  of  the  artistie  ignoraiu'e  hero  it  v  ill 

l'l"st  evening  the  opera  hall  was  tillo,!  to  ovortlowino- 
(thc.re  were  .lanees,  eome..lies,  ete.).  X.  was  re.eivo.l  ^^^h 
thunders  .)f  applause,  hut  he  is  past-nuister  in  us  art.  lis 
imitations  upon  the  violin  of  hm Is  .luac  rui.e.ls  are  inin  i- 
tal.le.  His  music  is  what  can  he  felt  an.l  umlers  oo.l  w.th- 
,M,t  any  need  of  being  a  musician  (a  blow  at  me\  hvi.ry- 
b..dv  understood  it."  Ami  here  is  the  measure  ol  the  tastes 
(,f  Nevada.  O  ignorance',  when  will  you  ceivse  to  be  i)ie- 
tentious  and  insolent!  n    <.  ;„ 

I  have  been  sick  for  three  days.     I  cai.not  rec(.llect  m 
fifteen  yeai-s  of  travels  and  vicissitudes  liaving  passed  eleven 
davs  so  sadlv  as  hero.     1  defy  your  finding  in  the  whole  o 
Ei;ro,.e  a  village  where  an  artist  of  reputation  would  find 
hims  -If  as  isolated  as  1  have  been  hero.     11  m  place  ot  p  ay- 
n-  the  piano,  of  having  eompose.l  two  or  throe  hundred 
pieces,  oi' having  given  seven  or  eight  thousand  concerts,  of 
iavin^  .-ivon  to  tVio  poor  one  hundred  or  ,.ne  hundred  and 
fiftv  tliousand  dollars,  of  haviug  boon  knighted    wice,  I 
luKl  sold  suecossfully  fi.r  ten  years  quarters  ot  salted  hog, 
or    la.l  made  a  groat  fortune  by  selling  dear  what  1  had 
b  on  rT.    (leap  mv  poor  isolated  chamber  would  have  been 
SVt    doJi;  and  admirei-s.     l)ocidc.lly  the  countiy 
oTimmcy  is  not  the  one  of  artists.    "  Muse,  etendoz  vos  ailes 
ct  fuyozau  plus  vite." 

Juno  16,  ISO."). 
Loft  Dutch  Flat  bv  stage  at  five  o'clock  in  the  morning. 
\(  vada  Citv  is  thirty  miles  off,  and  we  sha  1  be  there  at 
i,.  If.past  eleven  o'clock.  The  country  is  charming,  less 
nilliJmiLous;  it  penults  the  sight  to  -toml  -w  grec^ 
prairies,  which  gently  undulate  an.  are  lost  i"/!'*;  1"'"; 
foe'ts  which  cover  the  sides  of  the  distant  mountains.  At 
ne  o'clock  we  arc  at  Grass  Valley,  a  yeritable  garden; 


^■■i.»» 


Ii  that  .urionsimd 
iistaiK  c,  cast  ui»)n 
many  tilings  tluTc 
uTo,  a'i<l  in  swing 
liings  ii  is  ii()ssil)lo 

nranco  lioro,  it  will 
ai>iK'aiv(l  to-day. 
od  to  ovt'i-tlowiiig 
was  n'(  oivc'd  with 
(T  in  Ills  art.  His 
IrujicMls,  arc  ininii- 
1  undorstood  witli- 
,w  at  nu')-  Kvory- 
oasnro  v»i"  tlio  tastes 
ou  eci'.st!  to  be  pre- 

cainiot  recollect  in 
aving]iasscd  eleven 
ing  in  tiic  whole  of 
[)Utation  woidd  find 

11"  in  vilaco  of  i)lay- 
,-o  or  tlirce  linndrcd 
honsand  concerts,  of 
or  one  hundred  and 
;  knighted  twice,  I 
irters  of  salted  hog, 
ig  dear  what  1  had 
er  would  have  been 
H'idedly  the  country 
use,  etendez  vos  ailes 

Juno  16,  1805. 

look  in  the  morning. 
vo  shall  he  there  at 
•y  is  channing,  less 
r»  extend  over  green 
are  lost  in  the  pine 
<tant  niountahis.  At 
,  a  veritable  garden; 


GRASS  VALLEY. 


891 


laughing,  sprnco,  Howerv.  coquettish,  it  has  under  the 
morning  sun  whicli  gib's  it  the  appearance  of  bidding  mo 
welcome.  Adieu  to  my  apleeu I  I  have  forgotten  Viriiinia 
("ity  and  its  villunoas  mountains,  bald  and  grim,  which 
make  mouths  at  you  peri)etually  as  if  they  wished  to  re- 
proach you  for  the  incessant  overturnings  to  which  the 
cu[iidity  of  men  condenms  them.  Here  the  roses  crnnb  to 
the_  roof  tojis,  tlio  trees  are  gigantic,  the  brooks  gayly  roll 
their  crystal  waters,  wantoiiiug  anud  the  nicks  which  are 
in  their  way.  No  more  briers,  I)ut  trees  and  flowers ;  no 
more  of  bald  leprous  hill-tops,  but  verdure  and  finally  life. 
1  respire,  I  live  again. 

(Jrass  \'alley  is  charming.  The  streets  arc  carefully 
planked;  this  gives  them  the  ai)pearaiice  of  a  floor.  The 
h()tel  is  excellent.  The  journalist  comes  to  pay  mo  a  visit. 
We  set  out  again  at  eleven  o'clock  for  Xevada,  which  is 
only  four  iniles  from  Grass  Valley.  The  valleys  become 
larger.  The  view  is  magnificent.  The  trees  are  gigantic. 
At  a  turn  of  the  road  we  see  all  at  once  below  us  a  large 
valley,  a  pasture,  a  garden  in  the  midst  of  which  little 


houses  are  at  first  scattered,  afterwards  they  are  grouiicd 
together,  and  finally  form  a  village— it  is  Nevada.  The 
stn-ets  are  also  planked  as.  well  as  the  pavements,  and  they 
are  so  united  and  so  clean  that  one  might  think  one  was 
driving  over  a  floor.  There  arc  several  tine,  sp;i  ious  hotels, 
furnished  with  luxury.  Large  billiard  halls  are  attached  to 
them. 

Concert  at  Temperance  Hall.  One  hundred  and  fifty 
persons  who  listen  witji  infinite  attention.  I  would  not 
dare  to  say  that  thoy  listened  with  pleasure,  but  at  least 
they  behaved  themselves  decently.  There  is  decidedly  an 
amelioration  in  this  evening's  audience.  All  are  well 
dressed.  Some  females  have  hats.  Temiterance  Hall  backs 
on  a  steep  hill,  covered  with  verdure,  on  the  top  of  which 
is  hung  a  charniing  cottage  of  Chinese  architecture,  painted 
rose-colour,  white,  and  green. 

Nevada  City,  Juno  17,  1SG5. 
I  have  already  given  twelve  concerts  at  San  Francisco, 
made  a  tour  to  S.ncramento,  Placerville,  Carson  Citv,  Day- 
ton, CJold  Hill,  Virginia  City,  and  Hutch  Flat.     I  shall  not 


( 


a 


i 


302 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


trv  to  give  you  an  idoa  of  tho  fatigue  of  tlio.^e  travels. 
Those  wl.o  are  una.-.iuainte.l  with  this  eountry  could  never 
conceive  what  the  roads  are  in  the  niountan.s,  and  tliedan- 
.rors  of  all  kinds  aeei.mi.anyin!.^  the  route  tVoni  >an  P  raneisc-o 
to  Nevada.  Let  it  sutHce  to  state  that  1  renuuned  twenty 
hours  in  tlie  sta<?e  from  I'laeerville  to  Carson  City.  Also 
that  I  was  sick  for  three  days  afterwanis.  _ 

California  is  a  huiahug.     The  elinuite  is  eortainly  splen- 
did :  the  mineral  and  natural  richness  of  the  soil  are  mex- 
haustihlo.     The  p'ncsf  fruits  ami  rajctahl.rs  in  the  world  arc 
found  hero.     But  wlud  is  all  this  to  a  man  who  o;yns  no 
mines,   to   know   that   they  produce  ahnndantly   (is  this 
always  true)  'i     If,  like  myself,  ho  eats  l>"t  little,  and  is  not 
an  ei.icuro,  what  does  it  matter  to  him  that  the  most  splen- 
did salmon  in  the  worl.l,  and  the  most  ma<?niheent  straw- 
herries  are  found  here?     Are  the  mines,  the  salmon,  the 
strawberries,  etc.,  a  compensation  for  the  thousan.l  and  one 
things  wantinsr,  which  are  discovered  at  every  moment  at 
every  step  in  the  so-called  civilization  ot  the  t,olden  (  ity  ' 
The  women  are  net  pretty,  and  they  dress  as  it  tl.e  whole 
stock  of  the  second-hand  clothing  shops  ot  Tans  had  been 
sent  to  Californii'. 

San  Francisco,  .luly  10,  1805. 

I  have  commenced  a  second  series  of  concerts  here  which 
so  far  have  bet-n  very  successful. 

August  15,  18G5. 
I  have  left  on  board  the  steamer  Jnlia,togo  to  Stockton. 

After  havhig  crossed  the  bay,  ..  ^)}^'' ^^"^"^Z 
which  narrows  the  passage  so  that  the  sides  o  the  boat 
graze  the  banks;  this  tongue  of  the  sea  pioires  the  lan.l  a^ 
far  as  Stockton,  ninety  miles  from  San  1  nmcisco  \Ve 
arrived  at  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  but^  I  slept  until 
ei.rht,  and  did  not  go  on  shore  until  lune.  1  ut  up  at  the 
\veber  Hotel.  Do  not  suppose  that  it  rotors  to  the  musi- 
cian, but  rather  to  a  German  coloni.t,  to  .vliom  almost  tlie 
whole  town  belongs,  aiid  who  possesses  a  t«)rtune  ot  many 

'"  ThT'town,  or  rather  the  village,  resembles  Sacramento 
ou  uvery  small  scale:  several  churches,  pretty  little  cot- 


ii 


COLFAX  ASD  GOLDAX. 


898 


13  of  those  travels, 
•duntry  could  never 
iitaiiis,  and  tlie(lan- 
froniSan  Francisc-o 
1  remained  twenty 
(.'arson  City.  Also 
Is. 

e  is  eertainly  sjtlen- 
i)f  the  soil  are  inex- 
Irs  in  the  world  are 
L  man  who  owns  no 
ahnndantly   (is   this 
hut  little,  and  is  not 
that  the  most  s]>len- 
;  magnilieent  straw- 
les,  the  salmon,  the 
he  tho!jsand  and  one 
at  every  moment,  at 
of  the  tiolden  City  'i 
dress  as  if  the  whole 
Id  of  Taris  had  heeu 

RANCisco,  July  10,  ISGC. 

['  concerts  here  which 

August  15,  18G5. 
lia,to<!;o  to  Stockton. 

into  a  kind  of  hayou 
the  sides  of  the  hoat 
lea  iiiorces  the  land  as 
San  Francisco.  We 
intr,  hut  I  slept  until 
nine.     Put  up  at  the 

it  refers  to  the  musi- 
,  to  whom  almost  the 
sea  a  fortune  of  many 

resemhles  Sa(>ramento 
■lies,  pretty  little  cot- 


taiTOs  concealed,  like  nests,  hchind  the  thick  foliage  of  the 
large  trees. 

Concert  small,  in  a  mean  hall,  without  platt'orni.  We- 
ceipts  one  hun(hvd  ami  twenty-eight  dollars.  Tliccxpcnscs 
amount  to  more  than  the  i<'(vi[)t8.  1  have  heen  intruduccd 
to  tludgc  L'nderhill,  a  charming  man,  who  is  an  amateur  of 
music,  and  plays  the  organ  in  the  J'rcshyterian  Church  of 
his  friend  the  pastor  I lajipersctt.  The  latter  isa  charming, 
jovial,  agrecahle  old  man,  whose  frank  laughter  indicates  a 
tranquil  conscience,  and  the  ahsence  of  gall.  Amiahleman  ! 
The  organ  of  his  little  church  is  charming.  J I  is  room  is  on 
a  level  with  the  organ  loft,  and.  its  recess  conununicates 
directly  with  the  pulpit.  At  the  time  1  jiaid  him  a  visit  I 
found  him  writing  his  sermon  for  the  next  Sunday.  Large, 
round,  and  legihle  writing,  cli'ar  and  firm,  like  the  good 
man's  character.  The  most  magniticent  fruits  ripen  here, 
peaches,  tigs,  grapes,  etc. 

A  small  newspaper  gives  an  account  of  inj'  concert.  It 
lias  discovered  that  L  shake  with  the  thumb  and  the  fourth 
linger,  and  thence  concludes  that  1  do  not  know  how  to 
play  the  piano,  and  that  I  am  a  charlatan  incapal)le  of 
playing  Ueethoven.     The  same  nonsense  still ! 

1  have  visited  the  insane  hospital;  been  introduced  to  a 
German  baron,  a  very  distinguished  man,  a  captain  in  the 
I'russian  army,  a  civil  engineer  of  the  greatest  worth.  1  le 
possesses  great  intelligence,  hut  he  is  msane  and  imagines 
that  a  hand  of  jealous  persons  has  heen  organized  to  follow 
him  day  and  night,  and  to  ridicule  him. 

Colfax,  the  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Kepresentatives  at 
"Washington,  is  here.  He  spoke  last  night  to  an  inimense 
crowd.  The  placard  of  the  meeting  announcing  Colfax,  and 
that  for  my  concert,  are  alongside  of  each  otlu'r.  A  fat 
farmer,  who  evidently  understood  no  more  about  politics 
than  he  did  about  music,  mixing  the  two  names  into  one, 
in(|uired  "AV^ho  then  is  this  Coldax?" 

l)iiied  at  the  Lafayette  Kestaurant,  kept  hy  a  Frenchman, 
and  have  eaten  there,  Avhich  it  would  have  heen  im[)Ossible 
for  me  to  have  done  at  the  Weher  Hotel. 

Aly  second  concert  has  not  been  mui'h  more  fruitful  than 
my  iirst.  The  baron  (of  the  Lisiine  Ilfjspital)  was  there, 
and  congratulated  me  on  my  great  talent.     An  amateur  of 


394 


NOTKS  OF  A  PIAMST. 


the  town  playo.1  a  solo  on  thofluto  ono  to"o  Iow.m- tlu,n  tl.o 

'     u.  t nnnlHrno,  who,  not  l.oinjr  .l.lo  to  j.  ay,the  pumo 
l.unis  the  uir  to  hi.  scholar,     (^(o  ot  ^lu;  .as    inc.os  ^ncn 
hv  him  for  them  to  vrartiso  is  'Moise  le  1  halbe-i^. 

•  I  was  rnvscnted  on  my  tt-tcMlay  ^v,th  a  sni-orh  mo.  a  . 
All  tho  .U  tails  of  the  presentation  will  he  toun.l  m  the  Cl- 
io vi<^    Uieo:    "  For  two  clays  tho  xyoiulermK  erow<l  has 

t?M  0.1  ^  the  window  ..f  Mr.  Tucker,  the  jeweller,  m 
M  ..iKM-y  Street,  to  a.lmire  the  heaiitiul  medal  yre- 
^  Tt.>  t^^ttsehalk  on  tho  day  of  St.  L.mis,  his  tete.  a^ , 
hv  his  frien.ls  of  Sail  Francisco,  m  testimony  ot,  their 
.po  -ia  i.  n  .>f  his  talent  an.l  of  their  esteem  lor  his  per- 
appiuiaii  II  p  .H-he,  whose  well- 

klln'nt  Sy  II  l^iu^lM-  'dy  by  In.  lovJ  i.r  tho  arts 
ai^l    le    .r<.tect^.n  wllich  ho  gives  them,  that  appertains 
wo  are  assure.l,  tho  initiative  of  this  mag.nticent  otiermg 
ot- ri;  .ect  ron.lero.l  to  a  great  artist  an.l  to  an  amiable  nuui 
by  the^lite  of  the  Bank  and  of  the  great  meirhants  o   Sau 
iiuXT  The  subscription-list,  Laving  at  tho  head  tho 
names  of  Mr.  Piocho  and  of  onr  worthy  an.l  respecte.1  con- 
sul  Mr.  De  C'azotte,was  covered  in  a  tew  hours  with  tort v 
Bi.nuitures.     Mr.  Mezzara,  the  eminent   sculptor,  ottered, 
wTth  the  /.eal  ..f  an  artist  whoso  heart  is  always  veady  to 
associate  him  with  n.>ble  thoughts,  to  d.-sign  tho  model  lor 
tiie  me.lal  whieb  Mr.  Tucker  was  called  "po"  /..  execute. 
It  was  on  the  5tb  of  August  that  the  ino.lel  ot  Mr.  Me/./.ara 
was  sent  to  liim,  an.l,  altbougb  there  were  only  twentv 
days  for  him  to  accomplisb  the  dilhcult  and  .lelicato  task 
which  ho  was  called  .)n  to  perform,  he  has  succeede.l  m 
making  a  chcUVmivrc  of  jewelry  wbicb  is  c-ei-taml}-  unuiue 
in  America,  and  which  could  not  be  surpasso.l  in  elegance 
in  delicacy,  and  in  magnificence  m  the  ateliers  ot  Iroment 

^  "The  1  Cementation  of  the  medal  took  place  at  the  dinner 
which  the  forty  subscribers  gave,  on  the  25tb  A|igUBt  o 
Gotts.-halk.  The  menu  of  the  banquet  whose  bill  ot  laie 
must  easily  have  made  the  ghosts  of  \  atel,  Careme,  and 
Brillat  Savariu  leap  for  joy,  was  a  marvel  ot  gastronomic 
research  and  of  culinary  c-hemistrv.  At  the  ^^^^^^^^ 
taking  their  seats  at  the  table,  Mr.  rioche,  alter  a  few  ^veil- 


A  MA(JMIHi:ST  GIFT. 


31».j 


r»no  lowiT  tliiui  tlio 
1)1(1  (Jc'i  .liiii  I'layor 
to  jilay  the  piano, 
u'  last  pU'crs  n'ivcu 
.  ThallKT>r'.'   ^ 
h  a  siiiiorli  iiu'dal. 
I)t'  foiuitl  ill  the  t'ol- 
luk'niit;;  rro\v<l  liiw 
r,  tlio' jowt'llor,  in 
aiitiful  medal   i>re- 
Louis,  \m  tt'te-tlay, 
tostiinony  of  their 
L^rtteeiu  lor  his  per- 
I'ioehe,  whose  well- 
i.s  love  for  the  arts 
ni,  that  aitpertaiiif*, 
iiaj:;iutieoiit  ottering 

to  an  aiiiiahlo  man, 
^t  merc-hanta  of  San 
iig  at  the  head  tho 
y  and  respected  con- 
.\v  liours  with  forty 
it    setilptor,  ottered, 

is  always  ready  to 
lesigii  tho  model  for 
ed  npou  to  exceutc. 
lodel  of  Mr.  Mezzara 
e  were  only  twenty 
lit  and  delicate  task 
he  has  succeeded  in 
li  is  eei-tainly  unique 
Lir]>assed  in  elegance, 
I  ateliers  of  Froment 

k  place  at  the  dinner 
the  2.'Jtli  August,  to 
L't,  whose  hill  of  fare 
f  Vatel,  Careine,  and 
ar\'el  of  gastronomic 
At  the  moment  of 
)che,  after  a  few  well- 


chosi'u  words,  handed  to  (Jottselialk,  in  the  name  of  all  of 
theiii.  the  casket  of  red  velv«'t  eoiitaiiiing  llu'  medal.  Mr. 
l)e  Cazotte,  Messrs.  Madger,  I'ioche,  I'ringle,  Caselli,  Uich- 
ard,  and  Scott  made  several  speeches  <)  y^/viy/^.v  of  tho  occa- 
sion, to  which  (Jottselialk  replied  with  the  modesty  and 
tact  whi»'h  characti-rize  him. 

"The  medal  is  of  gold.  It  is  nine  inches  in  circiimier- 
eiice.  The  principal  face  is  formed  of  six  jilates  of  aurife- 
rous (piartz  of  ditlereiit  colours  artistically  arraiiired,  on 
which  are  iixi'd  the  initials  Jj.  M.  (;.  in  diamonds,  sur- 
roiinde<l  with  a  crown  of  laurels  in  diamonds  and  ruhies. 
The  knot  of  the  crown  is  fastened  hy  a  ma<riiiticeiit  soli- 
taire. The  reverse  of  the  medal  hears  the  arms  ,,i' Cali- 
fornia in  relief,  surrounded  hy  a  circle  of  diamonds.  IJclow 
are  these  words:  'To  Gottschalk:  a  token  .rom  his  Cali- 
fornian  friends.  25  Aug.  18(5,).'  The  attachment  of  the 
medal  is  made  of  a  hirge  ring  set  with  diamonds,  in  the 
midst  of  which  is  a  lyre  also  with  diamonds. 

'•The  intrinsic  vafiie  of  this  jewel,  which  liaa  cost,  we 
are  told,  inore  than  two  thousand  dollars,  is  still  surpassed 
hy  its  artistic  merit.  It  would  he  inipossihle,  without  see- 
ing it,  to  form  an  idea  of  the  delicacy  of  the  work,  of  its 
marvellous  linish,  and  of  the  exquisite  taste  of  this  little 
chrf-d'n  iinr.  Let  us  felicitate  Mr.  Mezzara  on  the  origin- 
ality which  ho  has  shown  in  tho  conception  of  its  design, 
and  Mr.  Tucker  on  the  fidelity  with  whicli  he  has  executed 
it.  Let  us  congratulate  (Jottselialk  ior  having  been  able 
by  his  private  qualities  and  his  talent  to  make  friends  wlio 
know  how  to  prove  in  such  a  significant  manner  tlieir 
esteem  for  him. 

''  This  present  is  worthy  of  a  monarch,  and  it  appertained 
to  the  (^ueen  City  of  the  Tacitie  to  present  to  the  first 
musician  of  America  a  testimony  which  was  at  the  same 
time  worthy  of  the  artist  and  in  harmony  with  the  mag- 
nilicent  generosity  and  the  marvellous  development  of  the 
modern  El  Dorado." 

On  hoard  toe  Coi.oRAno,  Spptcmbor  30,  18G5. 
Li  sight  of  tho  coast  of  Costa  Rica. 
Purgatory  is  not  what  foolish  people  think  it  is.    I  know 
by  ex]>erieiice  that  it  consists  for  the  moment  in  going  at 


896 


NOTES  OF  A  riAMST. 


tl.  rate  of  i^nrtcn  l^not.  an  h<;ur -ler  a  .nn  ^  ;^1 

„.elt  a  OH...-  inn.cs  "''',/'";]  :\1k.UIh.  h  tlHr.k  that 
U-  ^vc  arrive  at  any  i«.vt  <'^\;:'^^;  ',/.,„  ,„,.  ,ais.U-o.ls  l.a. 
1  have  sinncl  u.  iny  lito,  I  ut  th«-  -^"i  '    J  »        :>  ^,;      ,^ 

been  cruolly  eNpiatcd  in  tho  hM  »    '•-^^  l^^^^;;      ;,,      ..j  , 

;::;;  S::':^"::^^^  to  the  ren.arU.  of  xny  truvelhng 
comnauums.  „:„i.tnoiitli      The  heat  in  the 

lioht  of  the  bengal  lire^^,  the  «e""^.,^^      ^^  ^^.^  ^^^^on  is 

«,„,,,al,.l  "'""''S'Xr  a  k  S  of    l.mm^        I'J-  «l-»;- 
drive„,liko,.y.cO    on  a    k  1^2iri«La,.  whc-o  ho 

.,..U  Wan.l,  a,.  «-  ";™  '  ^  jj^j.^  ttat  Captain  Coot 


r. 

r  II  mn  wliu-h  w»nil»l 
uri'  of  goiiiji  ashoro 
Fii'Ulrt.   1  tliiiik  that 
"all  my  111 WU-e'ds  luirt 
'  (layrt  of  my  sojourn 
tii-Ht  been  pm-iird  by 
ich  has  liatl  at  U-ast 
1110  to  ki'i'i)  my  bctl, 
rks  of  my  travflling 

ith.  The  heat  in  the 
rhc  moon  iUumuuitcs 
ic  coast  of  Costa  Kk-a. 
/mvc  lines  are  lost  on 
onds,  the  jihosi.horos- 
itndes,  where  it  soonm 
lie  transparency  of  the 

of  the  theatre,  where 
laved,  amid  the  bluish 
ilour  of  the  enchantwl 

liuht  of  the  moon  is 
ne'^of  Alphonse  Karr, 

lying  pell-mell  on  the 
,est.    Several  families  of 
encampment  by  thein- 
,  and  the  young   gu'W 
the  brothers  and  hus- 
my  cabin  companions, 
heat,  gives  me  the  fol- 
icli  Islands,   where   he 
J  has  lately  left, 
the  more  as  King  iva- 
ion  to  visit   his  Court, 
he  kingdom  of  the  Sand- 
They  were  discovered  bv 
ight  that  Captain  Cook 
billed  there  in  a  (luarrel 
il  the  natives.     Kameha- 
lii;  chief  of  a  district,  he 
recosnized  as  king  ot  the 


KAMlUlAyrFJIA. 


897 


wliole  of  tlie  islands,  afterwards  he  armed  a  brig  which  ho 
had  kept  when  \'anconver  made  his  voyage  of  di'^covcrv, 
ami  witli  the  assistance  of  two  Kiiglish  sailors,  wlio  had 
deserted  (.1  oh n  Young  and  I)avies),ainl  iK-came  his  ministers, 
lie  c()ii(|uered  all  the  otlii'r  islands  of  the  ardiipelago.  'I'ho 
last  Iiattle  he  was  engaged  in,  and  in  which  his  victory 
was  decisive,  and  gained  iiiin  the  sovereignty,  took  place  in 
the  valley  of  Xonhouhan<:ii  (Cold  X'alK'V).  Many  thousands 
of  the  hostile  Kanak;.,  on  .eeing  themselves  coniiuered,  rather 
than  yield,  threw  themselves  in  a  body  from  an  iniinense 
]iri'cipi<'e  formed  by  a  huge  rock  whii-h  rises  more  than 
tlirci'  thousand  feet  above  Cold  A'alley. 

Kamehanieha  was  a  man  of  genius,  lie  ]iredicted  Kuro- 
peaii  civilization.  Assisted  by  the  two  sailors  he  applied 
himself  to  civili/.e  and  itolish  his  people.  'IMie  Kanaks  are 
mild  and  hospitable.  Their  instincts  are  poetic,  and  they 
possess  a  simplicity  and  candour  almost  infantine.  The 
Kanak  religion  was  Fetichism.  They  believed  in  sujierior 
spirits.  All  their  idols  were  symbolical.  They  had  a  sin- 
gular custom,  the  Taboo. 

Kamehanieha  in  his  sphere  was  one  of  the  great  spirits  of 
humanit}'.  *llis  lieight  Avas  gigantic.  Inking  six  and  a  half 
feet.  The  prestige  which  surrounded  him  was  marvellous. 
The  Europeans  themselves  felt  it,  so  irresistible  is  the  force 
of  genius,     lie  lived  at  the  beginning  of  this  century. 

Tolygamy  existed,  and  the  chiefs  and  kings  had,  most 
freiiuently,  their  sistera  and  daughters  f(»r  wives.  In  every 
district  whore  tlie  king  stopped  in  travelling,  all  the  women, 
single  and  married,  rushed  to  him  with  the  offer  to  jiartako 
of  liis  royal  couch.  In  every  chief's  family  there  was  one 
of  the  daughters  who  was  devoted  to  the  office  of  learning 
their  traditions  for  tlio  purpose  of  perpetuating  them. 

Queen  Kalama,  widow  of  Kamehanieha  III.,  has  lieen  tlie 
one  who  was  best  acquainted  with  the  traditions  of  the 
country.  In  this  country  it  is  only  the  mother  who  ennobles. 
So  far"  is  this  carried  that  if  the  king  himself  married  a 
woman  of  an  inferior  condition  to  his  own,  her  children 
would  be  strangled  in  the  cradle.  It  is  tlius  that  (Jueen 
Kalama,  who  was  not  of  illustrious  birth,  saw  all  the  fruits 
of  her  union  with  Kamehanieha  III.  perish.  This  respi'ct 
for  nobility  through  the  female  is  such  that  Prince  AVilliam, 
34 


f 


1 


898 


^'OTES  OF  A  riASIST. 


onlv  1)V  tlie  luali-  lino.     {^^'^^    .  '   .  ^.j;,,.^  1,^  H..m  an.l  H^itmrt 

S,  Ivhuvcs  will.  ,avat  ly^;;;    „  V;\^,  „vat  uo\my  «> 

lis  wifo!     In  the;  tune  o    LooW  t'  U    I  .^.  ^^^^  ^.^,  ^,,,^ 

n-ce  lnu.arc.a  tlu.nsan,       uR  ^^^.^^  thousand  ^vl^to.. 

eic^htv-oiuht  th.>usan<l  »^*  "^'^^  ,\j  „f  »ll  the  other  inhah,- 

of  antuiue  statuary.  ^       •     ^1,^,  ,..n,\tal  ot  the 

Icmohdu,  \n  the  is  hu.l  ^^^  ^X  ,  urt.     It  l-o^sesses  an 
UiuUon.,  and  -the  ;-^->'l^''-\      /  m  h  >ia  two  h\n>aml  and 
I;inund.UsheUere.ll.o    ,     l;;l;^;';,,,,^^ 
ii  ft  V  vessels.      Ihetowni-*  .:„  the  island.     In  tie. 

V  l.ano,of  ^vh•K;ll  tl-'7,;;;';;\^  f.^est  voU.an<.es  in.the 
island  ..f  llawaji;.n-e  ' '  '\  .^.^Uiuty  envters  were  m  a 
Ivorhl.  In  ^^^^5-^ '  "''*  V  tv  w  en  these  roleanoes  arc 
:^    e  of  activity.     A  P^-^^'^V^^  .;,±  ,  '  l„  1850  the  lava, 

norts  1   1  «-ith  eoral  and  madrepore, 

,,,,„„,,,.      She  ^'O^jnteiM^.  H       c  ^^^^^^^^.  ,,  ,, 

(uvdity  of  (iumainn,  that  is  lo  .a^>,  i 

/,«;  fnnetion  by  hjrth-  ^^^^^  ^^  ^  neuteiiaut-goucral 

The  uniioria  ot  tlic  kui;, 
ofFranee.  .     .     „,,^nni/,od   and   directed   J >y  a 

The  inilitary  music  i^/:!'--""  ;,,^.  years  since  with  hi^ 
Gelnuui.  The;kin.w-  --g;X,rt  .u,erb,  i..  the 
old  wife,  (iueeii  Ivalama.  1 


iV.  I XZA  MI.  LA-ACA  PUL  CO. 


3H0 


atlKT  .)f  I'liuioNN  li- 
ve hirtH..ii,  ana  Hliowrt 

the  irivat  ii()l>il»ty  «)t 
,,,„Uiti()U  war*  at  K-ast 
H-,('.  the  cfUsUH  jravo 
;w(>  thounaial  Nvlntcrt. 
■  iiU  the  other  mhabi- 
s,*yhair;  c.nni.lexi'ai 
portl.ms  of  their  ho.»y 
ino^t  celehrateel  tyi.es 

in  the  oapitul  of  the 
;.ourt.  It  i.o:^>^o'*^;"^  an 
hol.l  two  hun.Uvil  luu 

the  foot  of  an  ext  met 
in  ihe  island.  In  the 
vatest  voUanoeH  n»  the 
\uuty  eraterrt  were  m  a 
hen  these  roleanoes  arc 
,.,,,     lnl85Uthelavjw 

»,l  for  a  eoui-se  ot  titrj 
,l»m  valleys,  nu>nntums 

,oa,  mie<l  wv  »»''"J'  ''""''^ 

H,  coral  and  madrepore, 
izc  by  formhig  auuvmm 
,nis.  The  two  prmeu«d 
iiul  Maoimakea. 

roeords  of  the  kmiT.,  lu 
;ay,  i.rhne.  minister ;  it  i>i 

,at  of  a  lieutenant-general 

,i,od   and   <Vireeted   hv   a 

seme  years  smeewUh      s 

paUuc   is  sni-erb,  m  the 


niiilsf  of  n  park,  and  is  fnrnisjicd  in  Fiviicli  ntvU-  Mitli 
iiiarvflldtis  luxury.  All  tlio  porlraits  of  !i\  ini;  Kuropinn 
sovi-reipis  are  there.  Tlio  n«rciitioiis  at  tla-  palace  arc 
vci-y  hrilliaiit  and  imposing'.  'Ilic  climate  in  li'inperatu 
and  delicious. 

Their  iiiauiierrt  are  dissolute,  and  the  women  are  addicted 
to  lihertina.iiv.  Tliey  marry  at  \nni\  ten  to  eleven  vears 
of  a^^e  and  at  twenty-four  are  old. 

O.N  rioAui)  Tin;  Coi.nnADo,  Scjitoiilicr  30. 

AVc  rcaehcd  on  tlie  twenty-fourth  Man/,aiullo,a  Mexican 
town,  concealed  in  a  little  bay,  encased  l)y  mountains, 
whose  sides  lose  theniselvi's  in  the  shore;  the  town  in  fact 
is  but  a  cluster  of  huts.  The  Mexican  imperial  tlau'  tloats 
at  the  eiul  of  a  mast  on  tlio  roof  of  n  W|uare  ffamt'  white- 
washed btuldiiiix,  the  ^'overnor's  palace  without  doubt. 
Two  or  three  piroirues  loosen  from  the  shore  and  approach 
onr  steamer,  one  of  them  manneil  by  three  yoiuiir  Mexicans, 
covered  with  nnislin  drawers,  whirii  descend  as  far  as  the 
middle  of  the  thi.udi.  They  use  paddles.  Tlie  vouiiu'est 
of  the  three  is  ten  years  old  at  most.  IK'  absolutely  wished 
to  sell  me  a  monstrous  tortoise,  which  he  has  all  the 
trouble  in  the  world  to  keep  at  the  bottom  of  his  hoat. 
>'ot  beini;'  able  to  well  it  lie  seats  himself  on  the  b;  l<  of  the 
monster,  who  tranquilly  crawls  along  without  ajipcaring 
to  notice  thi^  increase  of  his  load. 

Another  canoe  lias  boardeil  us;  it  is  that  of  the  custom- 
house. A  half  naked  Indian,  whose  shirt,  with  sleeven 
boimd  with  yelknv  pipings,  is  in  tatters,  is  an  imperial 
soldier  who  accompaides  the  custom-house  officer. 

Arrive  at  Acapulco  to-morrow.  Acapulco,  according  to 
the  dictionary  of  Mr.  IJouillet,  is  what  in  reality  it  is  not, 
for  it  is  only  a  small  borough,  Tlic  houses  are  all  low, 
and  consist  oi"  oidy  a  ground'  floor.  The  French  returned 
here  four  days  ago  and  liavc  landed  a  garrison  of  three 
Inmdred  Mexican  soldiers.  They  are  for  the  most  part 
Indians  or  nudattoes,  who  go  barefooted  and  are  very  dirtv. 
There  is  not  one  of  them  whose  uniform  is  jierfect,  wlii'le 
the  greater  number  have  the  short  coat  like  the  Prussian, 
which   reaches  t()  the  middle  of  the  thighs.      Thev  are 

A  lai-ge  otHcer  of  awlcward 


small  and  repulsively  ugly, 


J 


400 


A'07Y;.S  Oh  a   /7.1.V/>T. 


fi  ,...-..  like  11  Dull  (hiixoto,  in  iinif'onn  nf  tin-  line,  l-iirmUH 
^^  •  1 ;  is  1  nil  .nnully  plu.-cl  on  .!..•  l.an-ll..  nf  Ins  In.-o 
La       U     Int.  a  lunjr'l.luo  -oat  an.l  .ap,  -.war.  a  vvat.l.- 

r  vat     nl  K^v   pantal.-ons  .,...tl..l  w.tl,  .^''•"l'--.^, '   ''^^^ 

,nV  lor   ir.s   .-War   «''   >'^'»'f    '"""'   '''"''   "'"' .^V  v        ' 
i,v  ot  Inaki^  a...,uain.an.v  wl.i.;h  t  a- Span.h  An..;w 

T  u.  !  .Mu-ml '•  nai.l  th.  lieutenant,  who  intro.lmvs  to  ,no 
11.      oU  (Quixote.     The  ge,KM-al   is,  as   I    have  .meo 

In       only  a  n.lonel,  hnt  it  is  go...l  taste  n,  the  M  ex, .an 
;;;;;;;.,  :^non-!,  the  Huhaltern.,to  exalt  the  eo.nn.an.ler  hetore 

''■■ffwhole    town    is   .lei.o,.nlate.l.      The    F.-en.-h    ha.l 
iJ.     •  n  then.selve.,  /han  Mr.  Die^o  Alvave.  re  ,re. 

i  al   the    uiountainK    whi.-h    Hurnanal    Aeapnleo      \  ith 

,,;,,,,,  the.  anny  aeuonnee.l  '"»">'  ^^  "  .,;  S 
for  luivin"  tVateu.i/.ea  with  the  enemy;  tl  ey  weic  U(l 
loi    MiiNin  (),n.  Kivnehman  only,  whose  httlo 

Slit  r  \{i     Irn  -IW   ,lu  Va..iHHue,'  lau.  ha.l    the 

elose    a^ani    on    us    (leii.niun..     -i>^  ,i      i 

hnjl^rialist.  and  lives  in  the  cellar  durnig  the  day. 


PASAilA  A.\D  im  IVUTEllS, 


401 


i.r  till-  liiu',  juinuUH 
Imii.ll.'  nf  Ins  liir,tr«' 

(•ll|i,  Wfill'M  11   VSlllcll- 

iii'^troiit,  II  liiiiiil'iil 
itli  <j;ri'ii-*<'.  1  i>"*l^ 
itli,  mill  with  tliiit 
tlu"  Spiiii'tsh  Aiiu-ri- 
trt  of  viildiir.  ''Wo 
WW   now,   but,"   he 

at  on  hir*  hi'sul,  \\w\ 
ly    iiioiistiiclK'.  <lrt'\v 

m-wrt  tVoiu  Nh'xiio. 
ho  iiitnMliW'cr*  tit  1110 

is,  us  I  hiivi'  sitico 
tiistt'  ill  tht>  Nh'xiiiin 
lie  ci)iiiiiiiiiiiUThi>tV)ro 

Tlio  Fi-iiifh  hiul 
)it«i!;o  Alviin'Z  ivtiivtl 
iiiiil  Ai'iipulco,  -with 
ants     followiii    him. 

of  the'  Fri-iirli  than 
in  gi'iuTiil,  that  this 
rinu;  the  first  Kmich 
ly  of  th*;  inhahitaiitrt 
iny;  tlioy  woir  trii-d 
lum  only,  whoso  littUi 
titiiiuo,'"  has  hail  the 
ssurc'<l  he  has  oiu'iicd 
the  steamer  and  will 

sells    nothiiii!;  to  the 
iring  the  day. 


ClIAITER  XX VT. 

Ootolpor  1. 

TiA\i>Kn  at  rniiama.  The  steamer  east  anchor  iMlore  tlu' 
iHliind  of  'roliai><i,  at  two  miles  distaiiee  fnun  liie  town. 
The  Bito  irt  ravishin^r;  tin;  island  is  a  broken  coast,  whosn 
steep  and  |.reci|.itoiis  (h'cliv  ities  pliiiiyv  perpendi.iilarly 
into  tile  blue  sea..  A  bout  eoiiieH  for  Us,  it  will  bave  to 
make  three  trips,  for  it  cannot  carry  at  onco  four  Imndred 
))assen,u'ers,  and  wo  are  at  least  four  Imndred.  The  wharf 
IS  crowded.  The  netrro  i»orters,  sellers  of  fruit  and  eitjars, 
(luarrel  aiiKjiii;  tliemselves,  an  customary,  for  their  juvy. 
Each  of  us  is  assailed  by  six  or  eii;ht  of  these  rairu;ed  mon- 
keys, who  otli'i-  us  tlu'ir  services  hi  Kiii;lisli,  French,  and 
Spanish,  and  often  impime  themselves  imperiously  upon  us 
b^'  Hcizinir,  wbetber  we  are  willing  or  not,  our  trunks. 
'Ihe  ^\•onlen  sell  lenionaiU',  rum,  and  parrots.  It  is  enough 
to  drive  oim  wild  ;  we  arc  Jostled,  sipiee/.ed,  tossed  abc'mt 
from  one  end  of  the  wharf  to  the  other.  The  first  train  is 
just  starting  for  Aspinwall,  it  is  for  tlie  steerau'e  i.as- 
sengew. 

I  succeed  in  collecting  tliree  of  my  trunks,  wliich  are  run- 
ning at  random  on  the  Hhouldei-s  of  three  biisybodies,  who 
were  in  (,  -jst  of  a. job,  and  who  consent,  by  means  of  a 
forced  contribution,  to  permit  me  to  take  possession  of  jiiy 
property.  A  hat-box  and  small  trunk  are  still  missing, 
but  after  the  departure  I  sliall  probably  find  tliem,  because  I 
took  tlie  ]ireeauti()n  of  writhig  on  them  "ranama,"  which 
signifies  that  1  stop  tlierc,  aiid  takes  from  tlio  jiortei-s  the 
hope  of  keeping  them  with  impimity.  Tliero  remains  to 
them  the  consolation  in  pei-8|»eetive  of  skinning  mo  under 
the  pretext  of  having  had  to  watch  my  baggage  for  two 

A  n  oinniljus,  d  ruwn  by  two  sorry-look  ing  hoi-ses,  s  wafged 
in  tlie  back,  driven  by  a  negro,  takes  mo  to  the  town  [iro- 
perly  so-called,  which  is  u  inile  off.     On  oui-  road  we  pass 

34* 


r 


1 


402 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


by  wretcliod  cabins,  notiroos  in  tattors,  nuns  oi  stone-houses, 
some  totterinir  walls,  the  stones  ot^vliieh  serveu  tor_  huilcl- 
iii"-  the  lew  new  tottc-niii?  liovels  whieh  are  built  in  tins 
(kviri.it  town.     On  u  hut',  a  sign  in  Freneh, ''  Y  reneh  gen- 
tlemen travellers   are  informed  that  Jean  t  ran(,ois,  troin 
l>aris,  washes  and  does  everything  pertaining  to  his  trade.^ 
A  lar<'-c  square  building  of  eut  stone,  the  whole  of  wbu  n 
is  l)roken  down,  and  the  interior  of  whieh  has  beeome  a 
medley  of  climbing  vlants   and  trees,  is  the  old  Jesuit 
college      This  is  the  old  town,  the  title  might  lead  one  to 
sni.nosc  that  the  remainder  is  less  in  ruins      Vam  illusion. 
Kuiiis '  ruins !  ruins !     The  cathedral  is  talhng  down.     1  he 
wooden   baleonics   of  the  houses  lean  towards  the  street 
with  an  evident  tendency  of  throwing  into  it  tliose  who 
might  be  so  imprudent  as  to  venture  into  them.     1  lie  dis- 
mantled roofs  arc  ecn-ercd  with  ve^retation.      Ihe  elock- 
tower  of  the  cathedral   is  covered  instead   ot   slate  with 
pearl  oyster  shells  incrusted  in  the  masonry,  which  sparkle 
in  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun.     The  streets  are  narrow  and 
crooked,  and  the  pavements  resemble  the  brim  ot  a  well. 
The  porches  serving  for  entrances  to  the  shops  are  dark : 
they  sell  in  thein  a  lot  of  tattei-s  and  other  mean  dirty  things, 
the  Aspinwall  Hotel  is  kept  by  a  Frenchman.      1  he 
hotel   is  dirty,  and   dilapidated;   the  dinner  is   passable, 
although  I  found  many  flies  in  my  foup  and  omelette. 

Opposite  to  the  hotel  a  Frenehwoman  keeps  a  shop  ot 
superannuated  dresses.  ,      ,. ,,  x 

1  have  been  walking  on  the  promenade  of  the  ramparts  on 
the  edtrc  of  the  sea.     An  old  cannon,  which  keeps  itsclt  m 
equilibrium  ou  half  of  a  gun  carriage,  is  vvhat  remains  of  an 
immense  barraek  of  cut  stone,     llie  walls  have  crumbled 
and  the  roof  is  ftilling  in,     The  ground  floor  still  remains 
The  windows  are  grated   it  serving  for  a  prison.     A  ci-owd 
of  unfortunates  stretch  out  their  hands  to  me  through  the 
bars.     "  Un  medio,  Benor."     I  throw  some  smal   pieces  ot 
money  to  them.     "  Dios  lo  bendiga,"  covered  with  benedic- 
tions, I  was  about  retiring;   but  the  soldiers,  allured  hv 
my  generosity,  arc  at  my  heels,  and  I  am  so<mi  surrounde. 
bv  a  score  of  black  and  yellow  ring^tail  monkeys  m  red 
caps,  who  have  come  out  of  the  .g^a/j'^-l'""^*^- .,  ^>' J?;\';' 
caps  I  guess  that  I  have  business  with  the  mviiiciblcs  ot  the 


T. 


THE  OLD  nisjior  A.\/)  hAraiiTiins. 


403 


vuins  of  stone-houses, 
licli  serveu  for  buiUl- 
ik'h  are  built  in  this 
"renc-li,  "  French  gen- 
Jean  Fraiu;ois,  from 
•taining  to  his  trade." 
J,  the  whole  of  whieh 

whieh  has  beeonie  a 
t?8,  is  the  old  Jesuit 
itlo  might  lead  one  to 
nuns.  Vain  illusion, 
is  falling  down.  The 
n  towards  the  street 
iig  into  it  those  who 

into  them.  The  dis- 
retation.  The  cloek- 
nstead  of  slate  with 
asonry,  whieh  s^iarkle 
streets  are  narrow  an<l 
le  the  brim  of  a  well. 
»  the  shops  are  dark: 
her  mean  dirty  things. 

a  Frenehman.     The 
le  dinner  is   [)assable, 
)up  and  omelette. 
)mau  keeps  a  shoi)  of 

lade  of  the  ramparts  on 
,  which  kcejjs  itself  in 
,  is  what  remains  of  an 
i  walls  have  crumbled 
uid  floor  still  remains, 
"or  a  prison.  A  ero\\(l 
ids  to  me  through  the 
V  some  small  pieces  of 
'  covered  with  benedic- 
le  soldiers,  allured  by 
I  am  soon  surrounded 
g-tail  monkeys  in  red 
fuard-house.  Jiy  their 
th  the  invinciblcs  of  the 


army  of  occni)ation.  The  uniform  consists  of  a  scarlet  cap, 
cotton  dra\vei"s,  no  shirt.  Some  have  Itayoiicts  at  tlicir 
sides,  others  a  cartouche  box  hung  by  a  slioulder-strap,  and 
no  shoes.     They  were  fighting  three  weeks  ago. 

Panama,  (VtolKT  7. 

A  concert,  organized  by  8Til>scription,  given  in  the  ball 
of  the  Hotel  deVille.  Tlie  tickets  are  a  ilollar.  Ki'ceipts 
one  hundred  an<l  forty  dollars.  The  audience  appears  to 
be  charmed,  whilst  I  am  playing  on  a  cottage  piano  wliii-h 
I  suspect  was  the  product  of  an  illicit  union  l)etween  a 
Jew's-harp  and  a  large  kettle.  The  <'limate  is  so  hot  and 
damj)  that  the  best  piano  is  not  playable  at  the  end  of  three 
weeks.  Besides  they  have  no  timer.  The  only  person  who 
meddles  with  them  is  an  unfortunate  French  secretary  at 
the  consulate,  who  has  one-half  of  his  face  and  nose  eaten 
off  by  a  frightful  cancer. 

I  have  seen  to-day  the  President  of  the  State,  'Sobrerano,' 
of  Panama.  lie  is  a  dark  mulatto,  who  received  me  in  his 
sh'rt-sleeves  and  slippers,  in  a  nasty,  miserable,  and  unclean 
little  house.  Ilis  mother  is  an  old  negress  who  sells  pre- 
served guava,  which  she  makes  herself,  and  who  tfoes  every 
morning  to  market,  barefooted,  in  her  chemise.  The  Presi- 
dent is  the  son  of  the  old  Bishop  of  I'anania. 

Yestenhiy  I  was  adnuring  a  pretty  girl,  eli-ven  or  twelve 
years  old,  who  was  making  some  })urchasi's  in  the  French 
Bazaar  opposite  the  hotel.  She  is,  I  am  told,  the  daughter 
of  the  priest — this  was  said  artlessly,  as  if  A\e  had  bi^en 
only  speaking  of  the  mayor.  Besides  her,  the  priest  has 
also  six  others — all  pretty.  She  did  not  hesitate  in  saying 
when  she  purchased:  "•Place  that  on  account  of  papa,  il 
Seiior  Cura." 

The  French  consul,  Mr.  T)e  Y ,  cousin,  I  Ijclieve,  of 

Mr.  Drouyn  de  LTIuis,  is  a  charming  man,  who  gave  me 
an  excellent  dinner,  which  I  thanlcfully  accepted  and 
appreciated  with  pleasure  after  the  infernal  cooking  on 
board. 

lie  showed  me  some  superl*  specimens  of  the  ceramic 
art  of  the  Indians,  found  in  digging  near  Chiriqui,  two 
hundred  to  three  hundred  miles  in  the  interior.  It  is 
curious  that  the  form,  design,  and  colour  of  the  vases  recall 


i 


404 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAXIST. 


to  iiiin<l   those   of  the   Etruscans.     In  the  nccrorohs   of 
rhir  Mi.i   an    innunuTahl.  q'uvutity  of  gol.len   onu.mont. 
have  \.c.on   f.mn.l.      The  consul  has  nm.le  a  ^.o"^- urn  ot 
then,.     Son.e  of  them  are  elegant  and  ot  reniarkahle ;n  ... k- 
numshii..     Thev  are  for  the  most  part  annnals-h/.a.d  , 
t V:U,  sharks,  ami  crahs-from  one  to  hvc  inches  m  lengthy 
ca-^t  in   -old,  whu'h  they  douhtless  suspended  t.oni  the 
.;  k   if  r  wJre  to  ju.lge  from  the  small  ru>gs  which  were 
i  ,  -aHahlv  found  in  afl  these  objects  artistically  concealed 
t  e  na'ws  or  phurd  in  the  middle  of  the  sculpture. 
The  consul,  havin^^  heard  of  very  rich  discoveries,  ANTote 
latc.lv  to  his  asrcnt  at  C'hiri(iui,  ordering  him  to  purchase 
a      the  (n-nanients  which  had  been  found  in    he  recen 
excavations.    The  latter  complie<l,  and  the  consul  recei  ed 
at  thJ  cn.l  of  a  few  days  a  very,  heavy  box  lull  of  shapeless 
goklen  iniiots,-the  asient  having  had  the  happy  mea,  he 
laid,  of  flattening  with,  the  hammer  all  the  objects,  so  that 
thev  miirht  take  up  less  room! 

to  ..ive  vou  an  idea  of  the  richness  of  the  excavations 
the  w">iirht  of  the  rough   gold  in  the   objects   found  at 
Chiri.iui  has  been  valued  at  seventy  thousand  dollars. 

The  church  is  dilapi<lated ;  and  everywhere  the  limnblc 
taste  of  the  Spanish  religion:  silver  paiiei-s,  artificial  flow- 
ers, horrible  painting'.    A  picture,  representing,  I  sv.pi^ose, 
pursjatorv,  has  particularly  attracted  my  attention.     The 
?\-initv,  i.ainted  on  a  eloud,  lets  fiill  on  a  crowd  of  weeping 
r.arenfs    ndulgences  and  me<lals.     In  one  corner  a  litt  e 
, -iest,  on  a  iFttle  cage,  in  which  a  spit  of  souls  in  trouble 
Le  roastimr  mer  a  furnace,  lets  tidl,  as  through  the  clunk 
of  a  monev-box,  a  few  pieces  of  silver,  which  d.nibt  ess  are 
to  refresh  the  roasting  ones.     Completely,  at  the  l>otto^n  o 
the  picture,  are  seen  the  flames  of  purgatory,  m  the  mid.t 
of  which  a  poiie,a  bishop,  a  kii^g,  a  wnite  man  a  black 
man,  and  an  Indian  are  burning-to  prove  doubtless  that 
no  one  is  protected  from  the  flames  of  purgatory,  and  ( on- 
senuently  could  not  be  dispensed  from  paving  its  debt. 
There  ai4  some  farmers  who  pay  the  priest  for  F>;n'^r,  •;; 
to  sweep  the  church  out  after  high  mass  on  Sunday,    i  hty 
oarefnllv  -ather  up  the  dust  and  spread  it  oyer  their  fiel.ls, 
l^^ua'kMf  Ihat  it  is  an  excellent  fertilizer  and  that  it  blesses 
their  crop. 


APATHY  AXD  WyORANCE. 


the  necropolis   of 
golden   onianionts 
ide  SI  collection  of 
'  remarkable  work- 
t  aninuils— li/anlf*, 
,-c  inches  in  length, 
ispended  from  the 
I  rings  which  were 
•tistically  concealed 
the  sculpture. 
Ii  diset)verics,  wrote 
g  him  to  purchase 
unid  in  the  recent 
the  consul  received 
jox  full  of  shajteless 
the  happy  idea,  he 
the  objects,  so  that 

of  the  excavations, 
e  objects  found  at 
ousand  dollars, 
ywhere  the  horrible 
ipei-s,  artificial  tlow- 
resenting,  I  suppose, 
my  attcMition.    The 

a  crowd  of  weeping 

one  corner  a  little 
t  of  souls  in  trouble 
3  tiirough  the  chink 

which  doubtless  are 
ely,  at  the  bottom  of 
•gatory,  in  the  midst 

white  man,  a  black 
prove  doubtless  that 
'  purgatory,  and  con- 
Dm  paying  its  debt, 
priest  for  ptTmission 
iss  on  Sunday.  They 
id  it  over  their  iields, 
zer  and  that  it  blesses 


405 


Xothing  could  give  you  an  idwiof  the  ignorance  and  the 
ni)atliy  of  theso  people,  who  i-oiisitautly  st-e  the  progress  of 
the  eivilization  <«f  the  Americans,  and  who  iieverthelcsa 
continue  to  iM)late  themselves  better  than  tlie  Chinese  tlo 
behind  their  Great  Wall.  They  have  a  horror  of  inno\a- 
tions.  The  foreigner  is  repugnant  to  them  beeause  he 
represents  a  sunnjiary  of  ideas  and  eustoms  ditlerent  from 
those  which  have  been  iransinitted  to  them  by  their  ances- 
tors. They  take  great  care  not  to  expand  their  views  be- 
yond their  small  sphere  of  action,  in  which  they  are  so 
circumscribed  that  they  l)ave  finally  lost  all  idea  of  social 
proportion  or  historical  i)erspective,  Tliey  depreciate  all 
ft)rei"fn  events  which  take  place,  and  exaggerate  all  those 
whic-li  appertain  to  themselves. 

Their  views  never  extend  beyond  the  circle  of  little* 
intrigues  and  i»etty  jtassions  in  which  they  take  jiart. 
Through  constantly  occui»ying  themselves  only  with  them- 
selves, they  finally  lose  every  idea  of  pro])ortion ;  the  im- 
perceptible sphere  in  which  they  move  becomes  the  centre 
of  the  world ;  the  universe  looks  at  them — the}'  think 
themselves  great. 

Panama,  October  10. 

The  French  consul  has  just  told  me  that  I  will  make  the 
voyage  to  Lima  in  comj)any  with  sixteen  French  Sisters  of 
Charity,  tv/o  Lazarists,  and  a  young  Peruvian  [triest,  who 
has  just  taken  orders  at  Rome.  God  grant  that  this  holy 
cargo  may  procure  for  us  a  calm  and  a  happy  voyage! 

The  English  steamer  is  ii  dozen  miles  distant  from  I'anama. 
A  little  steamer — in  which  are  [tiled  our  trunks,  upon  wliich 
the  whole  of  the  sisters  and  the  priest  have  seated  them- 
selves— takes  us  otf.  Singular  change!  I  cast  a  look  of 
regret  on  this  miserable  little  town  in  ruins.  I  leave  there, 
almost  affections,  doubtless  very  premature ;  but  a  travelling 
pianist  is  outside  of  all  rules,  he  has  little  time  to  lose,  he 
loves  very  quickly,  and  I  have  left  behind  me  many  pieces 
of  my  heart  hanging  on  the  thorns  by  the  road. 

There  was  ojtposite  to  my  hotel  a  little  Indian  girl,  with 
large  black  eyes,  and  coai-se  hair,  which  scarcely  yielded  to 
the  constraint  of  a  large  gold  comb.  A  suytple  figure, 
beautiful  yellow  bronze  round  shoulders,  naked  or  nearly 


406 


yoTKS  OF  A  r/Ayif^T. 


,,.,tiK-r.  M.e  '-<!  '>;\;"^;  ,^,  ,.^'  ^  ,,,,i  thms  though,  to 
'""wlh  J'trml  'l  art  it  "in"  to  sci^  -r  any  n.oro  .h.n  I 
'^"    .1       r  i     ti.c  str  .et.     I  often  h.oKc..l  at  h.r  again,  c-mv- 

,elvos  on  thoia  1^7  ,  "^,^,;'  ,  ;'  "'  u,4re  of  conquering  i. 
„aturcl     >  o>-\"'f'  ^.        .     .\^V^,  c-on<iuen..I,  anil  the  n..- 

niie  h'l^o  tt;^':;,;:;  t;t!;^j;,t:t';^;o  Httio  hoat  hogu. 

.  k  ^n.nHr  V      fho  8ea  Is  rough,  the  hoat  plunge. 

down,     ihe  pool  Bi>Ki     I  .  iroadv  manv  of  them, 

h>terrupt  their  ^'^\»tu4es      Al.i. .    a  Ka  }  ^^^^_ 

with  dim  eye  and  pale  f»f '^^^J'.r^^^^    ''^^  ^.^..''..vallowecl 
•  i-.,...c     nMio  Sunerioress  lierselt,  aitei  ikimii-,  i^"" 
?^^  Slitv  a^lon^'s  Bho  eould,get.  up,  and  .bsaupearn  at 
nei  (vij,uu>  .1         »  p^Uali  nrio^t  heaves  great  siglis,      Ino 

f  "T  '  S  the  U   W  it^  i.  n  Lazarist,  n.ad,  distracted,  rolls 


i 


inovKssiox  Driiixa  iiorr  \\i:j:k. 


407 


)eii  on  her  bosom. 
■V.  1  luivc  nevi'V 
I  thnul  look— onlv 

often  iVoni  rnv  bal- 
;r  Ji  ribbon  wbU-b  I 
She  was  toatbing 
her  knoos— pcrbai)s 
f*t  voice  if  it  wart  her 
ran  and  bid  horrfclf 
il  tbcro,  though,  to 

r  any  more  when  I 
•d  at  "her  again,  ecni- 
:>  grei'nl  always  the 
ntl  w<'  revensjo  our- 

0  villanons  liumaiv 
ire  of  (•on(iuering  is 
iquen-(I,  and  the  un- 
over  lead  me  to  give 

t. 

the  little  boat  bogms 
h,  the  boat  plunges, 
rt  horse  who  does  not 
>,  shakes  be.velf  as  if 
Our  trunks  tunildo 
re  this  t-atastropho  to 
\idy  many  of  them, 
in  vain  against  sea- 
or  having  swallowed 
up,  and  (lisai)pears  at 
ves  great  sighs,     The 
bebottori  of  a  grotto 
3  of  the  mouniain  of 
,  mad,  distracted,  rolls 
d  him,  muttering  me- 
errupts  to  lean  in  the 
lie  rigging  of  the  ves- 
i  faculty  of  looking  at 
feeling  more  my  own, 
i  the  inost  unmerciful, 
iicable  of  uU  evils. 


Opposite  to  1'avta  (IVrii),  October  ITi. 

Some  one  was  lately  relating  to  me  that  in  a  procession 
at  (Jiiatemala  during  holy  wvck,  the  (k-votccs,  no  lonovr 
satisfied  with  the  large  wooden  Christ  wliii-h  they  prome- 
naded, tliought  of  putting  a  big,  jovial  felhtw,  wlio  was 
willing,  upon  the  cross.  He  was  attached  to  it  in  such  a 
way  as  to  make  believe  that  he  was  crueitied ;  his  feet  ami 
his  bands  having  previously  been  ]iainted  searlet.  lie  had 
besides  a  female  f-  'Mid,  whoso  services  he  ofiered,  and  whom 
they  transformed  into  the  Virgin  ]Mary  ;  both  were  i)rome- 
naded  in  jn-ocession  as  far  as  the  church,  where  tlie  drama 
of  the  Passion  was  acted  in  nafiird/ihns.  The  most  shock- 
ing part  of  the  thing  was  that  the  \'irgin  was  to  the  knowl- 
edge of  all  the  unstress  of  the  one  wlio  represented  Christ! 
There  is  ut  Guatemala  an  analogous  custom  at  the  epoeh 
of  Holy  Week,  w  ith  this  difference  oidy,  that  Judas  is  niade 
to  ai)pear.  They  generally  conlide  the  part  to  an  Indian 
drunkard  or  idiot.  They  heap  upon  him  insults  and  bad 
treatment.  The  fury  of  the  peojile  hardly  knows  any  limits, 
and  he  becomes  an  object  of  execration  ;  the  poor  Judas  is 
generally  assassinated,  if  not  during  the  festival, at  least  iu 
the  following  year. 

1'ayta.  As  tar  as  the  sight  can  extend  only  plains  of 
sand.  Extraordinary  aridity.  Not  a  blade  of  grass,  not  a 
tree.  This  grieves  the  heart — one  feels  as  iu  tlie  presence 
of  a  cursed  land.  The  sim  lightens  up  and  brings  out  the 
sombre  tints  of  the  gorges  and  irregularities  of  tlie  ground. 
A  remarkable  i)henomeuon  is,  that  all  the  cliffs,  irregular  iu 
their  capricfious  forms,  are  level  at  their  summits,  and  form 
on  the  horizon  a  perfectly  horizontal  line.  It  never  rains 
here,  and  the  water  comes  from  the  interior  of  the  country. 
There^  is  not  a  drop  of  it  for  ten  leagues  of  our  road.  It 
costs  ill  town  one  dollar  a  load.  I'tiud  in  Bouillet  that 
I'ayta  is  in  the  mic^dle  of  an  arid  plain !  What  then  docs 
he  call  a  mountainous  country  ? 

Landed.  Alisery  and  tilth.  Five  or  six  streets  parallel 
to  the  shore  extend  for  almost  a  mile.  All  the  streets 
are  connected  with  each  other  by  narrow  alleys  two  feet 
in  width,  which  run  between  every  two  hduses.  The 
houses  are  of  bamboos,  covered  with  macaw  trees.  The 
bides  are  covered  with  lime  which  tills  up  the  interstices 


408 


NOTES  OF  A  riASlST. 


l,etwcc.n  the  bamboos.    The  sun  m;vcr  iKMU-trutos  luto  the 
uuJys  which  ooimect  the  ntrcet^  with  cudi  utliei". 

October  18, 1865. 
We  al.-.-oach  the  orart  on  onrleft;  alrfatly  "''""™"|- 

in  eve  T  heart.    It  soemB  that  every  one  wishes  to  make 
long  a  time  eoncealed  ^^  ?"  .V»^,™\%"  \;7,,omen  clothe 

ihVJm.  "he  Miiiltomo  Hithe  fuhiess  ol  his  joy    "iti» 
^gScetil    nSnil1o,,8,™l  a-  for  the  womo,,,  they  are 

"^f^^t^'w^rlir*:  Vnow  ahout  thorn,  mv  doa. 
,  11  tv"  m.iicd   ho  FrcMh  oritie,  Mr.  Fournior,  who  did 

contlSon,  they  kugh,  lay  their  plans,  and  «mg. 


,«|**»fl13»W** 


CALLAO. 


409 


lOiK'tnitort  into  the 
li  otlief. 

October  18,  1865. 

already  the  monn- 
loiulx  on  the  hori- 
of  the  Miilorrt  an- 
i-riving.     They  are 

the  oars,  another 
jrrt  re(loui)le  their 
■.I  the  passengers 
psod,  reappear  one 
prightly. 
canity  tinds  a  place 

wishes  to  make  up 
are  those  who  gain 
e  slovenly  creature 

eurse  the  ettects  of 
las  changed  into  a 
led  of  having  for  so 
under  the  horrible 
,  the  women  clothe 
,like  a  warrior, v.ho 

his  arms  at  the  nio- 
fc.  Besides  each  one 
n  her  companions, 
little  priest  becomes 
^agahi.  "You  will 
ss  of  his  joy ;  "  it  is 
he  women,  they  are 

)Out  them,  my  dear 
r.  Fournier,  who  did 
fly  an  arrow  at  the 
(h'arpest.  Placed  be- 
excites  him  to  break 
his  gown  which  con- 
jmpetence,  he  is  ver^ 
es  himself  to  reading 
iters  have  taken  the 
1,  and  sing. 


The  laud  appears  on  our  right ;  we  are  in  the  harbour. 
IJi'tore  us  a  lorest  of  masts.  The  captain  at  the  Itow  gives 
his  ordei-s  in  a  sharp  voice.  Callao  has  no  wharf.  The 
vessels  anchor  at  some  distance  out.  We  are  passing  a 
sui)erb  »Spanish  frigate,  J^u  Xuniancia,  then  a  small 
monitor  constructeil  in  I'eru,  which  has  only  one  cannon, 
whose  engine  gets  out  of  order  every  time  they  use  it,  and 
which  makes  only  two  miles  an  hour,  but  wliich  bus  not 
cost  less  than  two  million  five  liundred  thousand  francs. 
Some  Peruvian  soldiers  (negroes),  are  sleeping  or  smoking 
on  this  monstrous  shell.  They  have  red  iiantaloons  juid 
blue  coats,  which  furnishes  an  opportunity  to  the  Abbe  to 
remark  that  the  I'eruvian  army  is  as  well  disciplined  as 
the  French. 

We  cas.  anchor.  The  port  i.^  covered  with  boats  which 
come  for  the  mails  and  passengers.  The  boat  of  the 
captain  of  the  port,  maimed  by  three  or  four  Peruvian 
navy  ofHcers,  in  gold,  resplendent,  pompous,  and  makers 
of  trouble,  accost  us. 

The  sisteiM  arc  delighted.  They  just  now  see  two  white 
caps  in  a  boat  wliich  is  approaching.  "There  they  are, 
there  they  are,"  and  the  handkerchiefs  are  waving.  These 
are  without  doubt  some  sisters  whom  they  have  known  in 
Europe.  They  weep  for  jo}'.  Is  it  a  long  time  since  you 
have  seen  them?  I  asked.  "  AV"e  do  not  Know  them,  sir, 
but  they  are  h^isters  of  Charity."  I'oor  girls!  It  is  the 
same  with  the  soldier  who  sees  again  the  uniform  of  his 
regiment. 

The  mails  are  with  great  trouble  got  out  of  the  hold. 
It  is  here  that  they  should  possess  the  method  and  order 
of  the  Yankees!  They  must  wait  t^\•o  hours  and  pay 
the  watermen  who  have  already  invaded  the  boat,  in  order 
to  get  them  out  of  the  hold.  We  disembark.  Callao 
presents  nothing  remarkable.  A  great  many  negroes, 
Chinese,  and  Indians,  and  a  great  deal  of  filth.  We  have 
our  trunks  carried  to  the  railroad  station ;  the  train  runs 
from  Callao  to  I  ma  in  half  an  hour. 

Four  di''ty,  indolent  old  men  (these  arc  the  custom- 
house offi(!ers)  examine  the  contents  of  our  trunks.  On 
seeing  that  I  have  live,  they  upset  the  first  and  examine 
it  minutely,  for  the  purpose,  a  person  said  to  me  who  was 
86 


2^0TES  OF  A  PIASIST. 

looklnc  on,  to  tiro  out  ^''>f;."     ,",,.,  ,i,,  ,>tluMv.     lint 
tlK'V  l.a.l  tljoir  tnnU  e^or  U.     1     -, -l^^;^.^  ^,.,^,,    ,, 

a  fountorloit.  ,  j  i,„..o  not  vot  tjot  my 

Tho  train  i.  about  to  f';^^^Z'^L:^nn.U- 


the  railroua  car,    Tl«  «.™g«  .- 


.     The  oarnasios  ai«--   •■■^y  ,;      \,  kVo  a 

that  is  to  .ay,  ^ ^r'^iz^ti^^^^^:^:^  ^^ 

eoaoh.  Thoro  aro  h.^^^  ^^^^"^  '^ Uoa«t  wc  aro  not  ox- 
the  roruvian^.  aro  ''»'''V,  '''r.  '  i"^-' '  or  to  tho  i-orilons 
,,o,o.l  to  the  ru.lonosB  «*  ^l"")^^"  !f 'Tf  k  noo  tVoui  this 
„oi-hl>ourhooil  of  ragged  oniigrant.,  ""^^  \;';  ^^^.'^.t^j,,  that 
InU  in  Peru  the  fathoi^  ot  tannho.  ;  "^J  ^'^^  '^^^^^ 
thoir  daughters  wil  not  he  ^'^l"'  ^f;^^  ^.\  ^.^^teol  c-onvorsa- 
Stato.,to  hoar  ^rotane  flf'^^HoiotK  "" 

tion.     Thoy  shut  -  "r;;;|^^tt  ^?;.M,^^^^^^     Every  thu,g 

negro  gives  us  our  trunfe,  which  a  ^^i'^Jr^^^  bur  dc.Uars. 
I  few  stops  from  here,  f7;\^^^";:^\tndTov 'istanoe  of  a 

I  l»ad  almulyiwd  ^^j^/;  J^^'f,  j^stU --^^^^^'^'''.^"y 
qnarterota  nule).     ^j\  l'^*"^^;^!^"  ,,,iiaiH.      And  here  is  a 

turn  toward  her  slioros.  .    •     ^        ^  called  by  tho 

Lima,  the  oity  ot  t^»«  ^^f  f '  f '    ..u^"  ^  ^-oin  its  aprer.v- 

old  Spanish  writoi-s,  is  tar   mm  ^   >^    !-    \^^.,, ;,,  .,!,|eral, 

?-:;Cau!i^  cr  =  "t  ^'^^t  angle,  hut  their 


FEMA LE  DEVn TEES. 


411 


obtain  a  .irrntmty 
the  otlu'iv.  Uut 
uitl  tliL'  IVruvian 
of  tlu'ir  c'luitloyt'rt 
rJi'ii'iitionsly.  An- 
iioijiro  who  nrtsinvs 
he  liurt  given  lii"» 

vo  not  yot  j;(»t  my 
uni  of  the  coiintf 
itheHi'('n»t««lisi)osol 
irols,  thi-  (lisrurtHion 
etjro,  tired  of  war, 
^iiig  oft"  hin  countci- 

iikf»,  and  T  get  into 
like   the    European, 
I  eight  seats  like  a 
rd  eTassA,  and  in  this 
k'ast  wc  arc  not  ex- 
>i-8,ortotho  iiorilons 
id  I  deduec  from  this 
i  ahnost  certain  that 
:e  those  of  the  United 
•  ungenteel  conversa- 
t  k'tive  until  half  an 
y"here.     Everything 
that  nobody  has  any- 

wenty  minutes,  and  a 
ter  takes  to  the  hotel, 
t  sum  of  f<^"r  dollars, 
luled  (a  distance  of  a 
['ost  me  one  dollar,  iny 
Uai-s.  And  hero  is  a 
)i  emigration  does  not 

is  always  called  by  the 

iting,  from  its  apiier.i'- 

streets  are,  in  general, 

ight  angles,  but  their 


filthmoss  BurpasHes  all  iniairinati(.n.  Piles  of  dirt,  aiiini.d 
(an  asses,  and  all  sorts  <.f  nihl.ish  fm.ient  under  the  hin-iiin.r 
sun,  wl.icli  disengages  from  it  every  sja.ies  of  eftliu  iiniK 
ll.e  trutlers,  instead  of  being  alongside  of  (he  pa.en.ents, 
are  i.la.-ed  in  the  mi.l.lle  of  the  street,  an.l  are  truly  canals, 
three  and  Cnr  teet  m  deMtli,  which  roll,  when  thev  are  not 
stagnant,  tlieir  poisonous  waves,  and  when  I  sav  that  rnr>/. 
tnnm^  .-ast  into  these  open  drains,  any  one  <an  un.lerstaiKl 
that  the  air  o|  the  city  of  the  kings  does  n<.t  brint;  to  mind 
tile  roses  ot  rroveiice. 

The  houses,  mostly  built  in  tlio  oV  ,,anis]i  stvle,  that  is 
to  say,  massive,  heavy,  and  gloomy,  are  geneiiillV  preccde.1 
by  that  part  ot  the  building  fronting  the  street  wl.ieh  serves 
tor  tiie  domestics.  Then  comes  a  court,  which  vauuelv  re- 
fills, hut  without  ].ossessing  their  elegan.-e,  tlie 'I'ati'o  of 
Andalusia,  llie  dwelling  properly  s.Malled  is  at  the  bot- 
tom ot  the  court.  All  this  is  dusty,  dilapidated,  and  dirty, 
i  IS  idleness,  apathy,  and  wretchedness  such  as  one  invari- 
uhlv  hiids  m  all  tlie  old  Spanish  colonies. 

The  principal  square  is  surrounded  bvanadesor  i.orticoes 
under  which  swarm  u  whole  crowd 'of  mcr.hants  wh(,se 
bo(.tli3  are  hlled  with  odds  and  ends.      One  side  of  the 
s.|uare  is  shut  in  by  the  <'atliedral,  (hearchitecturc  of  which 
being  ot  the  composite   style  of  the  seventeenth  <-enturv 
produces  a  good  enough  effect.     AVheii  1  entered  it  for  the 
hi-st  time.  It  was  m  the  morning ;  a  few  lonely  female  devotecM 
were  [.ertorming  their  devotions.     Clothed  for  the  nvKt 
part  with  the  traditional  veil,  which  tliev  wear  over  the 
head  like  a  shroud,  they  recalled  to  me,  by  their  immobility, 
those  kneeling  statues  which  are  found  on  the  tombs  of  the 
mi.ldle  ages.     The  greater  part  have  made  a  v<.w,  some  to 
dress  all  m  white  for  a  year,  some  to  dress  like  a  Carmelite 
some  in  blue,  these  generally  conseemted  to  tlie  lilessed 
Virgin,     lliectteetis   ticturesque. 

The  organ  is  played  out  of  tune,  to  tlio  disgrace  of  all 
religious  propriety,  and  of  all  the  rules  of  music;  notwith- 
standing all  the  efforts  of  its  torturer,  it  however  did  not 
succeed  in  breaking  the  charm  which  took  possession  of  me 
Ihe  cliai.els  still  deserted,  the  larire  jKiinted  nooden  saints 
standing  in  semi-obscuriry,  twisting  themselves  into  the 
postures  ot  their  martyrdom,  or  of  the  actions  representin.^ 


1*- 


y| 


I 


412 


NOTES  OF  A  riASrST. 


the  ininu-los.  The  (-1.1  giMu'trH  In.M.n  I'V.tl.o  <lnst,  the 
whlh  without  givln,ii  rise  to  ivligious  uRHhtaHou,  tuvovuc-d 
^'tS'Lul'h/r^Ue  to  T.i.na  that  the  .ath.lral  ,c^ 

l.Mvin.^  a  va"ue  idea  of  what  a 'Munllo  imjiiit   I.e.  Dm  ic 

;rSt  knn^vhere  the  pieture  was.  I  ^^-'."I'^f  .  *  jj 
this  and  later  have  learned  that  1  was  n<.t  mistaken)  1  at 
t  c'' N  rillo' ha.l  l.rohahlv  heen  sold  l.y  some  rapa.  o.m 
U  w  lo  k„o  vin'^  its  value,  appropriated  M  to  Jmnselt  or 
t^ it  . uiuht  have  heen  exchanired  for  a  new  l't*-^;"v,  > 
1 1.  vm-  hritrht,  one  of  those  ignohle,  c-rude  .h  uhs 
i^i'-h  the  priest;  of  South  An.eriea  (are  they  e..ntined  to 
South  Anieriea  ?)  are  so  please.!  with. 

The  eitvof  Lima,  the  seat  ot  the  vioe-ro\ alt}  ot  iciu, 
was^>umied  hy  Fnmeis  I'izarro  hi  1535,  tWrty-two  years 
lifter  the  diseoverv  ot  Anieru-a.  . 

"  I  found  in  an  old  nianusevipt  the  to»«^^'">^\'  i;;;"  -''    - 
S,.he(hde  of   the  most  invineihle  (iueen,  Ma.him  .laiu, 
L^-un  ed  to  the  Marquis  Fra.ieis  l>izarro,  who  has  heen  and 
fs  governor  of  the  kin^Moms  whieh  he  has  diseovered  and 

of  whieh  lie  ^--yl;;;''^^'^V\^^ro,  residing  at  the 
m^nW  tli::iSin:;^^X.*,^he  veiie  ahle  Father^l>on 
Fma^ido  de  Luque,  dignitary  of  the  compter  and  lea 
v..  M-  +1.0  Chnreh  of  Dorieuse  de  \  aeante,  v.hu'li  18 

h,  .itinu-  the  eitv  of  Panama,  have  mmle  kno^\n  tliat 
t  aS  yc)  colnpanions,  for  the  purpose  of  ^^-^f^^ 
Cl  fo  t ie  goo.1  of  our  royal  ^•r'>^v",  >^v<,,  lor  lix;e  ea.  . 
more  or  less  with  permission  and  authoriza  ion  jf  Jedio 
S^  e  Avila,  our  Governor  and  C^vpta  n-Geneml  ot  the 
^  d  m  hil^nd,  ^mdertaken  to  eonci«er  to  ^--J-'N.  J^ '; ^  J 
a.ul  people  the  sea-coast  to  the  south  ot  ^ho  ku.  ■> 
land^n^he  east,  the  ^^^^^^L^^Z^t  ^l^tlZ 


;t  riiraui  a  Vrigai^tine,  in  4ieh  enterprise  you  spent  a 


■  ,-J.TU'll-'"'*'*"*''*'^^'"'"*''"'""'"'"^*^'' 


STRI^KTS  OF  LIMA. 


413 


l)y  the  (lust,  tl\e 
I  siiiL'  liar  i'rt"»H't, 
litatioii,  fuvouml 

ho  catlu'drnl  i>«w- 
(l  the  sacristan  to 
1110,  lookiii.uat  iiK' 
tlii'ii  (liivc'toil  iiiy- 
\\\Q  a]»)H'araii«t'  ot 
inijrlit   1k'.  l)Ut  ho 
[  conchulod  tVdin 
ot  mistakon)  that 
V  some  raiiatiourt 
>d  it  to  himself,  or 
now  i>i(turo,  vory 
ihlo,   oniilo   (laul)rt 

0  thoy  ooiitiiK'tl  to 

■c-rovalty  of  Toru, 
15,  forty-two  years 

wing  (loouiiiont: — 

A'li,  Madam  Jano, 

who  has  been  and 

liua  ilisoovered  and 

'o,  residinp;  at  the 

lerable  Father  Don 

ehai)ter  and  head 

Vaeanto,  v.hich  is 

1  Diego  do  A  Imago, 
made  known  that 

'l»osc  of  serving  us 
liuvc,  for  live  vears, 
lorization  jf  Pedro 
itain-Gencral  of  the 
)diseovor,  topaeity, 

of  the  said  main- 
:ponse,  and  that  for 

caused  to  l>o  made 
terpriso  you  si)eiit  a 


largo  sum  of  gold  jh'sos,  and  ina<le  sai<l  discoveries,  in  which 
you  have  suth'i'od  many  a.ciih'iits,  and  ci  in  iron  ted  many 
jterils  on  account  of  tlie  (U'sertion  of  yoiir  men,  who  aluni- 
doiu'd  you  'lU  a  (K-sert  island,  exci'|iting  liiirteeii  men,  who 
were  not  willing  to  leave  you,  and  that  witli  the  lu-lpof  tho 
wiiloi'H  and  jteoplo  which  ("aptain  Don  Di»''go  iV^  A  Imago 
otfered  yon,  passed  from  tlio  said  desert  itland,  ami  dis- 
e(»veri'd  the  said  lands  and  provinces  of  IVrii  and  tiie  city 
of  Tumhoz,  in  which  expeilition  you  and  your  ooinpanions 
have  spent  more  than  thirty  thousand  pesos  of  gold  ;  and 
that  with  the  desire  which  you  have  to  servo  us, you  wish  to 
follow  up  the  siiid  eon(|Uest  and  populating  at  your  expense, 
without  our  ever  being  obliged  to  reimburse  you  the  ex- 
penses which  for  th.is  j>urp<)Hoyou  have  made  and  will  make, 
except  those  which  in  the  present  article  will  be  granted  to 
yon,  and  that  you  prayed  aii<l  re(piested  me  to  grant  you 
tho  command  of  the  saiil  con([uest,  and  to  grant  certain 
privileges:  1  ordain  that — 

Under  Captain  F.  ih'  I'izarro,  it  may  bo  permitted  you 
to  eontinue  for  us.  and  in  tlu'  name  of  our  royal  crown,  tiio 
said  eonquest  of  discovery  and  population  of  the  said  pro- 
vince of  rem,  as  far  as  the  distance  of  two  hundred  leagues, 
more  or  less,  from  tho  coast,  starting  from  the  place  called 
hi  the  Indian  tongue  Teninipuedo,  and  which  you  have 
named  Santiatro,  as  far  as  the  village  of  Chincha.etc.  etc. 

^^^llowod  by  ii  score  of  clauses  m  which  Madam  .lane 
regulates  with  profuse  ])rolixity  of  style  and  scruiiulous 
accuracy  all  the  details  of  this  curious  document. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 


Lima. 


The  streets  of  Lima  arc  paved.  (?)  with  small  spherical 
stones,  upon  which  the  foot  can  jiover  be  placed  'lat ;  you 
constantly  lose  your  balance,  and  your  foot  are  bruised  be- 
tween the  inteisticos  of  the  pebbles,  which  besides  are  not 
made  level.     The  ground  is  broken,  and  there  are  vallevs; 

35* 


((tgwi«sti«siH  iB^Kw»^^^^'^>'■^ 


tain.      I lu'i.  tlu   ^'^^^        .  .„^,,,a  „t  i„t(TvalH   .v  nai- 

,ow  l.ri.k'^'^^  «'i  'Atones.        '.'^''^,"'\     Vm    „f  Tlu.  stnrts,  hut 

tilth  iK  .iuM-iv  .U'i-;t;;-.'-  ^^1:1^^^^ 

as  it  novel-  nmiH,  aii.l  lla    ai      "   '^;;     ,         ,i,,i<,,oui.-,  1k- 

Hi.loH  tnvria.ls  of  .nrat  vnltuir.,  la.   a   »  ^'^^^^^^ 

,„.,,  tlK.  stnvts.lon  .tWss  V;  ^j"!^;    /    Ju    m  thon.s.lvc. 

^^'•JVni'Uo  ni.n  n.v^j;^l-rnn^^ 
,uuni.il.alautl.ontu.sot  ^  ''\,^  '  .^.  ' !/ ,,. U  have  tlu^  a.l- 

tlK.mran.l  .ost  the  ♦'•^^ W;r',^;;;;3,^,  two,  on  ac-c-ountof 
The  houses  are  <-r;^';  J,.^'^:;r  VVpa.^sh,  that  is  to 
the  eai-th.iuakes      Ihc  "•-  [         „^     .^.  i;,„i.  tVet  thu-k. 

.av.heavy,n.assive,an.l  »:'"^^  '  J  ,;;^''  /„,,  interior  eourt, 
I.muense  eoa.-h  gates  give  ent  ncc  "»  ,,  ^^^.^  ^.e 
whieh  generally  han  a  ^V;!''  '  "  ,jVe  ,  o  •  Moo  ish  arehi- 
awelling  at  the  hottom.      lese        «  .,,,,,^  i„ 

teeture,  elegant  ";i\\  '";^^\\1:  a  ^.^  IvV  ami   massive 

i^:;fi^u;;^r::.tu::a^Sn:t;;;^t;:^ightJheya.^ 

)„st  now  in  revolution  (When  »^,;/:  "^;;j;"';  ,o  hl(.eka<les 

room  lett.  .,i     .i       „,.<•  wliioh  firries  iiiv  trunks — 

1  ,rt,  .mt  nsimn  ^"th    be  '«  ', " •i,.'™, , \'^;',;,,,.l.    1  ol.tain 


-j»«s«w*****^''^ 


1 


I'OI.ITICM.  Ari'A/liS  /.V  /'/AT. 


415 


from  untlci-  voiir 
l,y  till'  "  irnH-m  tic 
,li'  aiul  Htnki'  tliu 

(.|^. — it  is  II  IIIOUM- 
,11»>  of    till'    HtlVl't.S 

ii\tcrvalw  l»v  mvr- 
a'liu*  r^^  »'  hiiiiii— 
of  tlif  stri'i'ts,  l)Ut 
.  miiisiimtu,  vhicli 
u'lr  niikno\vir,  1»*'- 
■aiitl  trniiitl,  iiniiiic- 

w'ViTi-  laws  wlii<h 
v».  upon  tlu'Uisclvi's 
thoir  duty  woutlor- 

to  sujr^n-st  to  the 
'.iinortat'um  of  soiiu' 
who  luivo  thiK  ad- 

\\H)rk  iutrustc'tl  to 

u  two,  on  account  ot 
Spanish,  tliat  is  to 
^aiv  iniir  tccttluclc. 
r)  an  interior  court, 
ho  miiltUc,  an.l  the 
on  of  Moorish  anhi- 
iihos(iuos  i)aintc»l  HI 
heavy  and  lOJj'^wive 
iirht  they  arc  like  a 

ugecs  from  Ec-uador, 
)t  "0,  and  from  Chili, 
>i»ain,  who  blockades 
.tela.     There  is  not  a 

1  carries  my  trunks— 
jother  hotel.    I  ohtam 
ilor  for  the  night. 
)t  have  chosen  a  more 
■rts.  ,    , 

the  city.    The  whole 


country  has  joined  llicni.     The  c;i|.ital  aJiMie  lias  remained 

liiitliful  to  tin nstilutiunal   president.     I   am  wronu  in 

HMviiiir  faithful ;  it  U  truer  to  say  that  he  still  occupies  it 
with  all  the  ti ps  which  he  has  concentrated  for  the  pur- 
pose of  resisting  the  eiu'my.  It  sccnis  singular  to  nn 
7\inerican  that  the  whole  coiinfrv  nhould  ranm-  itself  uudi-r 
the  ri'hel  flag,  and  that  nevi'rtheless  (uu-  city  still  in  the 
power  of  tlu!  government  should  he  silllicient  to  prevent 
the  triumph  of  the  reliellion.  One  hattle  only,  in  which 
the  hitter  should  he  con((Uere(|,  would  siiHice  foi'  the  rc- 
esfahlishmeiit  of  onler  (at  least  for  some  tinu'),  civil  war 
being  the  n(»rmal  state  of  I'ei'U. 

i  have  tried  to  unravel  the  tangled  skein  of  political 
ntfairs  of  the  present  time.  This  is  wiiat  1  understand 
about  it:  The  Spanish  goverimicnt  claimed  from  I'erii  three 
rnillions  for  <lamage.s  done  to  some  nativi's.  The  constitu- 
tional presidi'iit  acc«'ded,  on  the  consent  of  the  chambers,  to 
tlu'  demands  of  Spain.  The  vice-president,  Si-fior  A\ 
Canseco,  seized  this  pretext  for  ac<Mising  the  government  of 
Pern  of  pusillanimity  and  raised,  in  the  name  of  the  out- 
raged national  honour,  the  standard  of  rev(dt.  JIo  was 
arrested.  Si'ciiig  that  his  attempt  was  not  successlul,  he 
l)roniised  the  government  to  leave  the  country  if  tlioy 
would  pay  him  the  arrears  of  his  account.  "Agreed,"  saiil 
IVzet  to  him,  who,  above  all  things,  wished  to  get  rid  of  a 
<langerons  coadjutor.  Unco  the  dollarn  were  pocketed,  Mr. 
Canseco  pretended  to  exile  himself,  disembarked  on  the 
coast  to  the  south,  and  raised  an  army. 

To  raise  an  army  against  the  government  is  in  Peru,  rh 
in  all  the  other  S[»anish  republics,  an  easy  matter.  To  bo 
in  power  is  to  draw  handsful  out  of  the  coHl-rs  of  the  State. 
A  party  triumphs;  the  cure  is  ready,  "Myself  president," 
"  you  general ;"  but  as  all  the  soldiers  cannot  be  generals, 
and  all  the  generals  presidents,  the  friends  of  yesterday 
become  the  enennes  of  to-morrow.  "(Jet  out  of  there'."  is 
the  motto  of  all  politicians  in  general,  but  of  the  Peruvians 
in  particular. 

CorriH)tion  reigns  everywhere.  The  gf>vernmeiit  is  a 
milch-cow — all  nulk  her.  An  officer  lately  assured  me  that 
the  scale  of  superior  officers  and  generals  of  I'erii  corre- 
sponds to  an  army  of  eight  hundred  thousand  men !  and 


416 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


I 

I 


!.  1 

'■1' 


y% 


li 


einploje  Bw-airt,  luc  e.  t-reditors.  because 

to  tro  into  the  htate  trcasiuj,  looi^  nti^i^  Tl.n ' -.nlnnola 
«lu.  sneiuls  always  more  than  she  gams,  ihe  colonels 
reeeiv"£ec  hl^llred  an<l  sixty  ¥^^V^J^:t 

Z::{^^:U^o  powe.  ^ey  ^in  a  «.suU. 
nMo  rovenue  in  the  toUownig  manner:     Iheu   battalion 

r'ta;^  .     A  o^ltll  of  oavdry  Lkc,  ho.,  a  .n.all  for- 

K  o'S- ;  S  hmi«,     S  aUo  that  of  thjir  fo^go,  whiol>  .V 

Piont  allow^  him  for  the  to»|"-y  "-ho  So  - 
Smoral  arrive  1    X)oos  a  review  tako  Jilaco  '     ih"  "="",, 
lo    0  V.  for  the  'amoro,'  Irom  the  h?i*'-"!«'-''lr*'',n,Cl 

Sa»tr«e"  to  "U  Uf  the  Mcicncte  tl>o  "olo.,*  cnro 


li 


-%  ml— Bii>mw>f«W<n.Ty»wi»8*«-' 


a;;af«W''^??3'*^^^^^^***'-" 


ARROGANCE  OF  THE  MILITARY. 


IS  in  time  of  war! 
(1   the  others  are 
^  successful  revo- 
If  of  the  country 
from  it.     A  revo- 
)untry  is  without 
iracy,  and  tlie^  tirst 
prepared.     Every 
icetini!;  what  ought 
•  creditors,  hecause 
ius.     The   colonels 
rs  per  month,  and 
the   gratuities   in 
feneraf  whom  they 
ley  gain  a  consider- 
r.    Their  battalion 
in  reality  only  four 
ly  for  six  hundred 
>able  on  account  of 
js  here  a  small  for- 
nit.    The  fraud  can 
peculiarity,  that,  in 
nent  are  piit  out  to 
)ockets  not  only  the 
nr  forage,  which  the 
lary  horses.    Does  a 
place?     The  colonel 
»e-merchants,  and  on 
regiment  fully  filled 
s  general  on  the  fine 
his  little  trade  Avith 
lot  as  easy  to  borrow 
es  the  colonels  enroll 
0  need.     And  this  is 
confidential  soldiers 
idian ;  they  approach 
ind,  whilst  the  other 
lid  places  on  his  head 
serter,  and  carry  him 
Cuartal.'     Recruiting 
her  way.     They  send 


417 


some  soldiers  into  the  country,  and  they  seize  by  force  the 
poor  Indians,  tear  them  from  their  families,  and  lead  them, 
tied,  like  the  beads  of  a  rosary,  to  a  long  rope  held  at  each 
end  by  a  soldier. 

The  arrogance  of  the  military  is  'nsupiiortable.  Tlieir 
insolence  and  their  haughtiness  are  only  e(pialled  by  their 
folly.  Overwlielmed  with  debts,  they  would  not  find 
credit  anywhere  if  they  did  not  now  and  then  take  care  to 
pay  something  on  account  to  their  creditors.  This  is  the 
way  the  thing  is  managed  (it  is  a  Frenchman,  a  dealer  in 
military  equiimients,  who  relates  it  to  me):  A  colonel  I 
suppose,  owes  eighty  dollars  for  u  pair  of  ei)aulets  He 
comes  to  bring  you  twenty  dollars  on  account,  and  buys  a 
bicorne  which  is  worth  thirty  dollars,  which  h^  has  placed 
to  his  account.  The  account  always  increases,  and  the 
merchant  who  receives  on  account  does  not  dare  to  -vt\me 
credit  to  his  customer  for  fear  of  losing  both  the  account 
and  the  principal. 

A  poor  French  tailor  who  had  given  credit  to  the  oflicers 
of  1  ezet,  at  his  fall  was  in  for  six  hundred  thousand  francs 
and  was  ruined. 

A  colonel  went  to  a  Frenchman  to  purchase  ten  thousan<l 
francs'  worth  of  furniture  on  credit.  The  Frenchman 
retased.  The  colonel  said  haughtily  to  him,  "Ah  ha!  do 
you  take  me  for  one  of  those  "Frencli  beijgars  or  lorei'ni 
adventurers?  a  pitiful  sum  often  thousand  francs'  I  si.end 
It  for  bonbons!"  "The  greater  reason,"  the  ].oor  man 
humbly  replied  to  liim,  "for  not  giving  you  cre<lit." 

A  Bolivian  colonel  had  an  account  with  a  Freiuii  coft'ee- 
house  keeper,  which  had  become  so  large  that  the  latter 
was  not  willing  to  give  him  further  credit.  The  colonel 
gave  his  sword  to  him,  and  as  the  sword  was  worth  more 
than  the  sum  due,  the  cofiee-house  keeper  gave  him  the 
balance  in  trade.  The  swoi-d  remained  a"  year  at  the 
cofiee-house  keeper's,  and  us  the  col  -el  had  no  other  lie 
went  to  the  reviews,  without  any,  wluch  did  not  prevent 
him,  however,  from  being  as  proud  as  Artabanus 
}L  ^^' "'^'i^  liowever  go'"  badly  iu  Peru,  what  shall  I  say 
of  Jiohvia.'  Mhen  the  liberator  IJolivar  cut  from  the 
map  the  territory  of  each  of  the  nations  which  ids  vic- 
torious  sword  carved   out   from  the   captain-generals   of 


'^■t^-^-li'*^''i'^'^'^'-> 


I  • 


1! 


^^^  NOTES  OF  A  riAMST. 

a     nwh    Amoriva   he   urt^kmea   to  Bolivia,  it  is  true,  an 

t    '"uttl.  1  >rt".f  Coliia.  ^  She  longed  for  the  tongue  .^ 
.It.  IVmvian  .oa-eoast)  which  runs  into  us  torntory 
earth  (the  ^  ^^^^^  '"  rj^j^i^  i,  the  cause  ot   the  ^var 

and  roh»  it.ot  ^t^  uu^t  ^^j  ^ual  president,  Mezarijo, 
between  l^^^^^^;^^  ^  ."'bi^  r^'unkanl,  who  hangs, 
a   Choi.),   IS  a  ^'^  «"°"'    ^'^J^;  ^t,,     A  soldier  of  fortune, 

shoots  down,  1;  1*'',  "^^Xt  o^^  >«  ^"'"•'^^•^«-  "'  ^""''-^ 
"^  :;^S"onrhl:w\>?  -  axe  the  una  of  his  iavourUe 

aid-de-canip. 

Pebc. 

^^t"-^'  '  ufier?    ''  they  excUtim  with  terroi.     "God  pro- 

lis  vou  n,;;it  wait  until  you  have  1c«uch1  to  »«-,m  lK,foro 
'"\i:?,r  uf  l;*Vaih.aa  l,  ma.le  .Jl^twoen  two  vi.jagc,  u^^ 
°;t!t  rii  *1f  ™S,ri""*r So  to^^lla^o/  have 

"""".,1  to  h«     I  "Pera  L  must  sain  iioxsession  ot;  them 

?'    -m,      y  m-   nno vati-a,  ha«  to'tight  against  |,re.,u;. «• 

lK,e  1,11.-1  tli,™wl'i'-l'  arc  not  rcro.nmen,  e,l  hy  thotr 

I  he  sniaiieHi   """tr       .     ,      fpiw.  l.ll«ilu'^^  of  foreisners  m 

^''i^'ti  tl,o  Other  day  in  a  moment  of  anger  (with  more 

I  said  the    ;  »«; J;  Yi  •  vour  desire  to  see  all  the  foreigners 

Sel^^uVCX^'w^s^gratiiied,  before  fifty  yea.  you 


UNnP.lDLED  COimVPTION. 


419 


'ia,  it  ift  true,  an 
to  give  to  it  any 
LVru  on  the  we^t 
It,  Bolivia  felt  ill 
vanls  the  sea  was 
for  the  tongue  of 
>s  into  irs  territory 
cause  of  the  war 
iresident,  Mezarijo, 
kanl,  who   hangs, 
soldier  of  fortune, 
rracks.     He  lately 
•m  of  his  favourite 

Pebc. 

,  tail,"  they  used  to 
'oruvians  helieve  in 
)  theui  about  jjublie 
,  too  young."  "  No 
terror.  "God  pro- 
ignorant  ;  wait  until 
'ell  might  they  say 
rned  to  swim  hefore 

)en  two  villages,  in 
In  Peru  they  con- 
two  villages  have 
very   avenue   among 
tions  the  doors   are 
n  possession  of  them 
;ht  against  prejudice, 
commended  by  their 
iness  of  foreigners  in 
Peruvians  go  haek- 
the  swiftness  of  the 

of  anger  (with  more 
:o  see  all  the  foreigners 
lefore  fifty  yeai-s  you 


would    return   to    your  national    costume-— notliintr    hut 
leathers.  * 

Tlicir  hatred  for  foreigners  is  rooted  in  their  heart,  in- 
luscd  nitt)  tlieir  blood. 

There  is  not  a  point  in  the  Peruvian  character  in  which 
you  do  not  hud  the  gangrene  of  venalitv,  of  ignorance,  of 
corruption,  of  sloth,  and  of  boasting,  l^lie  pai^has  of  Asia 
Mnior  have  not  a  more  despotic  i)ower  in  tlie  midst  of 
tie  eunuchs  ot  then-  harems,  and  the  unfortunate  fellahs  of 
then-  fields,  than  that  which,  from  the  highest  to  the 
l<.\vest  in  the  military  scale,  is  exercised  by  the  epauletted 
janissaries  who  govern  Peru.  The  Peruvian  government 
IS  and  has  always  been  a  military  oli<rarchy  niore  oppres- 
sue  inore  brutal,  and  more  arbitraiy  than  the  autocracy 
ot  Kussia  will  ever  be.  Their  good  pleasure,  tliis  is  the 
law  which  governs,  and  every  goose,  turkey,  i.eacock, 
cock,  capon,  or  eagle,  from  the  marshal  to  the  lieutenant 
wearing  a  sword,  proclaims  this  law  supreme,  and  rules 
like  a  despot. 

The  most  unbridled  corruption  in  every  branch  of 
government,  the  most  shameless  venality  amoiio-  all  .-lasses 
everything  IS  sold,  everything  is  bought.  Sloth,  isrnorance, 
and  Jiatretl  ot  the  foreigner,  these  are  the  onh"  beliefs 
protoundly  rooted  in  the  lieart  of  this  race,  debauched 
physically  and  morally.  Sad  spectacle!  And  is  this 
wliat  the  Inited  States  should  risk  their  soldiers,  their 
navy,  their  military  honour,  and  their  millions  for'  Xo' 
a  thousand  times  no!  Take  all  the  Spanish  Americas 
and  examine  their  governments. 

^  XiCAKAouA  composed  of  negroes,  Indians,  and  mulattoes, 
IS  governed  by  an  ignorant  and  barbarous  clergy,  sui> 
ported  by  some  imbecile  sabres. 

(jTatkmala,  suttbcated  in  the  blood  and  the  murmurs 
winch  proceed  from  an  oppressed  people,  permits  itself  to  bo 
organized  by  the  clergy  with  the  obsequiousness  of  a  con- 
quered province. 

IIoxDURAS  and  Salvador  are  supernumerary  subalterns, 
wlio,  as  m  glooniy  dramas,  phow  themselves  when  there  is 
some  assassuiatiou  or  strangling  to  be  committed. 


^ig^Rsa  mis^"' 


420 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 


Costa  Rica  is  the  only  one  of  these  repu  .lies  that  meets 
the  Hyniimtliy  of  honest  men  on  aeconnt  ot  the  ettorts  wliieh 
she  is  makhiu  to  enter  into  the  paths  ot  civihzution. 
Ecuador  helongs  to  the  elergy  and  the  Hwonl. 
Perit  has  this  at  least  in  its  favour,  that  it  is  not  Baii^jm- 
nary,  and  that  in  its  revolutions,  exeent  the  soldiei-s  killed 
in  bittle,  history  has  never  registered  those  bloody  proscni.- 
lions  wliieh  sully  and  dishonour  the  next  day  ol  every  new 
government  in  the  neighbourmg  reiniblios. 
^  Bolivia  is   governed  by  a  mulatto  Indian,  ^vjio   calls 
himself  provisional  constitutional  president,  although  he  lia  I 
killed,  with  his  own  hands,  the  lawful  president,  and  wU 
eontinue  to  be  provisionally  eonstitutional  ""t^l^»^%"|;  "»'f^ 
death,  unless  some  other  assassin  m   turn   kills   him,  to 
occupy  provisionally  and  constitutionally  his  place. 

The  Republic  of  Paraguay  is  governed  by  an  hereditary 
president  for  life  (?)— a  republic  I  , 

^  Tnd  the.e  are  the  people  who  cry  out  against  monarchy, 
whilst  thev  submit  to  the  most  frighttul  autocracy  and 
Tec  mmod^tc  themselves  to  it  because  Lope.  II.,.  their 
ac  uTty  rant,  instead  of  calling  himself  sultan,  calls  himself 
hereditary  p^sident  for  life.  Is  this  not  comical  to  the  last 
SoJree'  I  is  absolutely  like  the  bourgeois  gentilhomme 
S  was  not  a  mcrchanttshame  on  him)  but  who  purchased 
merchandise  for  the  purpose  of  exchanging  it  with  hi. 
friends  for  money. 

Midnight,  November  3. 

Battle  of  Lima.  ^    j.  t      i     nf 

Nevertheless  what  happy  moments  passed  at  Lima .    Ot 

all  those  to  whom  I  am  indebtetl  for  them,  my  fnend  Du- 


thunderine  discliarge  oi  lync  enji-niyj,  "-   — •--  • 
Bomewherf,  excited  all  my  good  French  triends,  who  leaped 
tZi  their  chrirs  as  much^on  account  of  the  music  as  tor 
the  souvenirs  which  it  evoked  of  their  country. 

Mn  Dupeyron  receives  a  letter,  "Are  there  news  of  the 
revolution  ?''  I  said  laughingly  to  him.     "  )  es,  read. 

The  letter  is  from  an  officer  at  the  camp  (the  president  s). 


mutiWiSiimm'^-" 


>ul)l)os  thfit  moots 
rtheetfi)rts  wViioh 
ivilizution. 
Hwonl. 

\t  it  is  not  san";ui- 
the  soldioi-s  killod 
<e  bloody  proscrip- 
;  day  of  every  now 

'S. 

Indian,  who  calls 
it,  although  ho  had 
prosiilont,  and  will 
al  vuitil  his  natural 
cum  kills  hull,  to 
f  his  place, 
id  by  an  hereditary 

against  monarchy, 
tful  autocracy  and 

0  Lopez  II.,  their 
sultan,  calls  himself 
t  comical  to  the  last 
•geois  gontilhommo, 
)  but  who  purchased 
mging  it  with  his 

tfidnight,  November  3. 

lassed  at  Lima!  Of 
hem,  my  friend  Du- 
ist. 

ither.    I  played  the 

Poignards.'     This 

ity,  as   Berlioz  said 

1  triends,  who  leaped 
;  of  the  music  as  for 
r  country. 

re  there  news  of  the 

"  Yes,  read." 
imp  (the  president's). 


FWIITISa. 


421 


who  assorts  that  the  two  armies  arc  at  the  distance  of  a 
kilometre  fn)ni  each  other.  The  tiglit  will  take  place  to- 
night or  to-morrow  morning.  The  letter  ended  more 
jtiously  than  horoirally: — 

"Ireconnnend  my  soid  to  God,"  said  the  otfittT.  Afr. 
l)ui»evroii  assures  mo  that  this  brave  man  is  one  of  the 
least  brave  that  ho  knows. 

November  G,  4  o'clock  in  t\v  morning. 

Started  up  awakened  by  a  noise.  Firmin,  my  factotum, 
calls  mo.  _  "  Th'  y  are  fighting,  sir,"  he  calls  out  to  mc. 
Indeed  firing  succeeded  rapidly  iu  opposite  directions.  It 
approached.  The  whole  house  is  aroused.  The  battle,  if 
it  takes  jdace,  will  be  under  our  windows,  for  at  tlie  cor- 
ner of  our  street,  that  is  to  say,  at  the  distance  of  twenty 
yards,  is  the  square,  or  palace  of  the  government  and  the 
numici])ality,  which  occupies  two  sides  of  the  square.  The 
discharge  of  musketry  increases.  A  cannon  shot.  Are 
these  the  revolutionary  troops?  la  it  the  people  who  have 
risen  and  attempt  to  hold  out  in  garrison  1  Is  it  only  a 
revolutionary  division,  which  shall  have  made  a  movement 
and  placed  Pezet  between  the  fires  ?  AVe  are  not  able  to 
find  out  anything.  The  trtimpets  in  the  distance  are  ..lound- 
ing  the  charge.  It  is  a  division  that  is  entering  the  city  at 
a  ruuuing  gait.  The  drums  and  the  trumpets  are  sounding 
the  charge  and  they  pass  like  au  avalanche  before  our  wiii^ 
dows.  Dupeyron  has  seen  them,  and  by  their  white  hats 
has  recognized  the  revolutionary  troops. 

The  night  is  magnificent,  the  silence  profound.  Xot  a 
bell  is  heard,  every  church  is  guardcil  by  a  ])icket  of  sol- 
diers, and  in  each  clock  tower  they  have  posted  men  upon 
whose  fidelity  they  can  rely. 

Sharp  discharges  of  musketry.  They  are  fighting  on  the 
square.  The  govermnent  troops  have  repulsed  the  column 
Avhich  we  saw  go  b^  just  now.  A  battery  of  artillery  is 
placed  under  our  wmdows.  I  can  no  longer  resist  my  de- 
sire to  see.  Cojicealed  behind  the  blinds,  t  look  down  into 
the  street.  It  is  occupied  by  a  compact  crowd  of  soldici-s 
of  the  revolution,  horsemen,  covered  with  large  red  ponchos, 
with  large  round  white  hats  on  their  heads';  iicll  moll  and 
immovable  as  statues.  All  at  once  a  discharge  of  artillery ; 
30 


422 


yOTKS  OF  A  PIASfST. 


cries,  oaths,  n  furious  tempest.  In  the  gloom  I  see  a  wljole 
world  of  iihantoins,  striving  in  the  midst  of  a  deafening'  up- 
roar, which  risos  from  time  to  time  al)ovo  the  loud  noise  of 
the  i-annon  mingled  with  the  rattling  discharges  of  mus- 
ket rv. 

A  squadron  of  cavalry  dehouehes  on  the  square.  Ihey 
are  received  with  a  discharge  of  musketry.  For  some 
moments  I  hear  very  near  mo  little  whistlings,  like  the 
noise  of  a  switch  heating  the  air. 

A  little  like  the  ostrich,  intrenched  hehind  my  hlmds,  i 
am  inqyassiblo  in  the  midst  of  the  melee.  Puff!  a  dull  noise 
very  near  me  awakens  mo  to  the  reality,  and  warlike  pro- 
pensities vanish  before  the  instinctive  feeling  of  self-pre- 
servation. It  is  a  hall  which  has  lodged  in  the  balcony. 
A  moment  after  I  risk  looking  out  again.  The  wounded 
are  numerous  and  cover  the  jtavement. 

Who  has  won?  Who  has  lost?  No  one  will  ever  under- 
Btand  our  suspense.  A  bell  11  the  tocsin  is  ringing.  The 
church  has  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  rebels,  who,  per- 
liips,  arc  so  no  longer  at  this  time,  the  way  in  which  things 
go  in  this  unfortunate  country. 

The  shrieks  and  tumu  it  under  our  windows  arc  horrible. 
It  is  a  hand-to-hand  fight.  The  clashing  of  swords  and  the 
cries  of  those  Avho  fall  are  only  heard :  "  Jesus,  Maria, 
Dies  1"  Dupeyron  prepares  down  stairs  in  the  apothecary's 
Bhop  charpie,  mattresses,  etc.,  for  it  is  probable  that  they 
will  open  or  force  the  door  in  a  few  moments.  The  only 
fear  which  we  have  at  this  time,  besides  accidents,  spent 
balls,  or  stray  bombs,  is  that  Pezct  is  not  victorious,  and 
does  not  return  to  Lima  to  dislodge  the  besieging  column. 
The  troops  at  the  palace  behave  iTravely.  They  have  not 
yielded  an  inch.  It  really  requires  heroism  to  fight  with- 
out a  flair,  without  the  word  of  command — blindly ;  for, 
like  ourselves,  they  do  not  know  if  Tezet  is  concpicred,  or 
if  they  are  fighting  sixty  thousand  men  or  a  column. 

Six  o'clock. 

The  battle  continues.  The  balls  fly  and  are  flattened  on 
a  salient  part  of  the  wall  alongside  of  the  house.  The 
children  are  taken  from  the  rooms  which  arc  fronting  the 
street,  and  the  whole  household— negroes,  luulattoes,  cholos 


nV/.lT-v.     AD  SPECTACLE! 


428 


nom  I  sec  a  whole 
of  11  (loiitViiin^  ui>- 

0  tlio  loud  noise  of 
lisi-liarges  of  uius- 

tho  square.  They 
ketry.  For  some 
•luHitVmgs,  like  the 

cluiid  my  blinds,  I 
Puft'!  ii  dull  noise 
',  and  warlike  pro- 
feeling  of  self-pre- 
yed in  the  baloony. 
lin.     The  wounded 

ne  will  ever  under- 
u  is  ringing.  The 
le  rebels,  who,  per- 
'uy  in  whieh  things 

udows  arc  horrible. 
?of  swords  and  the 
d :  "  Jesus,  Maria, 
in  the  apothecary's 
probable  that  they 
oments.  The  only 
lea  accidents,  spent 
not  victorious,  and 
e  besieging  colunui. 
ly.  They  "have  not 
roisni  to  fight  with- 
iiand — blindly ;  for, 
.'zet  is  conquered,  or 

1  or  a  cohunn. 

Six  o'clock. 

and  arc  flattened  on 
of  the  house.  The 
ich  arc  fronting  the 
es,  niulattoes,  cholos 


mcludcd— seek  shelter  in  the  ]iarlour  winch  i  <  at  the  rear 
ot  the  house.  The  cries  of  triumph  arc  (h-awiiig  near ;  tJie 
discharge  ot  mu  •ketry  cejuses.  1  j.lace  mysch'  attain  in  the 
balcony,  stUl,  like  tlie  ostrich,  beliind  my  blind,;,  and  I 
see  a  strange,  charming,  indescribable  sight.  It  is  at  tlie 
same  time  a  fairy  divaui  and  a  nightinare.  A  band  of 
Judian  Tiiusieians  blowing  on  horns  a  sort  of  wiva"e  flourish 
(ompof-ed  of  four  low  notes  whicli  always  folTow  in  the 
name  order,  advance  running;  Jjchind  it  a  long  file  of 
lu(  lan  soldiers  in  red  pantaloons  and  round  hats  like  a 
turban.  They  are  the  cholos  of  Cauzcco.  They  go  by  like 
an  avalanche  without  any  impediment,  in  the  midst  of 
frantic  acclamations  from  a  crowd  of  amateur  cholos  on 
horseback,  who  encumber  the  pavements,  and  ai.pear  dis- 
posed to  lend  them  a  helping  hand. 

Ten  minutes  of  silence,  disturbed  at  great  intervals  with 
single  musket  shots. 

Half-past  six  o'clock. 

Hang!  A  cannon  shot.  Bang,  bang— piff,  putt".  The 
battle  has  recommenced  most  beautiiVdly. 

The  brave  government  troojis  have  commenced  fighting 
again.  The  cannonade  is  redoubled.  Our  street  is  a  field 
of  battle.  The  tocsin  sounds.  The  sun  rises.  I  ijo  again 
to  take  my  position  behind  my  blinds.  Two  cannons  are 
levelled  before  our  door  against  the  palace.  The  brave 
troops  will  not  yield.  What  a  sad  spectacle!  A  poor 
cholo  stands  in  a  doorway,  leaning  uj^on  his  gun ;  he  has 
around  him  a  sea  of  blood ;  his  wound  must  be  serious,  for 
the  blood  continues  to  flow  and  the  pool  to  enlarge.  "  O 
charite  Chretienne !  ou  etes  vous  et  ose  t'on  bien  invoquer 
Bieu  en  faisant  la  guerre  V  (0  Christian  charity !  where 
art  thou,  and  do  wc  indeed  dare  to  invoke  God  in  makiii"- 
war?)  * 

I  can  see  half  of  the  square  through  the  opening  of  our 
street,  Avhich  opens  into  the  middle  of  it  before  the  gate  of 
the  palace.  There  is  a  heap  of  slain.  The  revolutionists  arc 
in  ambusli  behind,  and  are  firing.  They  liave  got  on  top 
of  the  roof  of  the  Hotel  Alaurin,  and  are  shooting.  A 
soldier  whose  cartridges  have  given  out  spies  the  dead 
body  on  the  pavement  opposite;   he  searches  him  after 


"i 


•| 


•■/■;^mm!ff0^M'¥:-''Xf^'i''i'Kssm%>'M)XfmiV'^<<mivs"'' 


424 


A'OjTA'.s-  or  a  riAMST. 


huviiM'  fillocl  hi'*  nirtri.lgi-box.  A  littlo  .trainni  (ni<ra- 
mufHiT),  who  «'OineH  iVom  the  Bc-une  of  uftion  (tlic  tyiu- ut 
till!  u'aiuin  is  ioiuul  ovi'ii  ainotiL'  tlic  chokw  ot  1  itu),  walks 
arouml  tho  .U'a.l  body  and  looks  at  the  rol.hu.K  oi'cratu.n. 
AttenvanU,  hoiug  Hatislioa  that  no  Ihtsoii  sirs  limi,  lo 
appi-oachfs  the  eorpso,  an<l,  nn(Ur  i-retext  ot  looku.g  at  the 
wound— a  nuiHket  wound  in  the  toivhead— takes  olt  its 
cape,  and  I  nee  him  quietly  put  it  into  his  poeket,  e.-vin,t; 
out  at  the  name  time,  "Vive  la  revolueion  1     and  go  skip- 

ping  ott".  1         1     •  1 

iMie  firing  is  against  the  i)alaee;  a  breaeh  is  opened. 
Thev  nevertheless  ^1  ill  defend  themselves.     At  a  distan«-e 
we  see  troops  whii'h  are  advaneing.     It  u  a  revolutionary 
division,  who  have  been  niaivhing  for  e  even  hc.urs  an. 
who  bave  sueeeec'-d  in  turning  Tezet  s  riirht.    At  the  hea.l 
uiairb  the  bugles  and  drums;  almost  all  are  m  unitorm; 
but  the  u'-eater  part  have  no  shoes.     All  wear  a  piece  ot 
white  cloth  on  the   kepi,  a  rallying  sign,  so  as  not  b)  be 
mistaken  for  the  government  troops  whose  nnitorin  is  tbe 
same      All  are  Indians,  well  made,  but  small,  tbe  identical 
type  of  tbe  Egyptians.     Many  of  them  are  mounted  on 
asies,  and  accompany  the  drums  on  a  sort  ot  cymbal.    1  hey 
all  pass  on  to  the  wpiare,  but,  as  the  cannon  ot  tbe  palace 
enlilades  the  whole  street,  they  aiv  ranged  in  two  tiles, 
which  occinw  tbe  i)avcment,  two  men  abreast,     ibe  com- 
bat begins  again  more  fiercely  than  ever— as  soon  as  tbo 
fresb  troo|.3  'debouche  on  the  scpiare.    All  at  once  a  general, 
accompanied   by   an   escort   of  black   cuirassiei-s-donblv 
black,  for  they  are  negroes,  and  their  rmirass  is  ot  black 
iron,  announces  that  tbe  revolution  has  tnmnpbcd.         _ 

Tlien  as  if  by  enchantment,  ull  the  windows,  balconies, 
dormer-windows,  the  roofs,  and  the  doors  are  tilled  by  tbe 
curious.  They  are  nevertheless  still  fighting  at  tbe  palace. 
Tbe  cannon  is  all  tbe  time  thundering.  A  ball  has  just 
flattened  itself  above  my  head.     I  keep  it  as  fi  relic. 

They  be<>-in  to  carry  off  tbe  wounded.  An  unfortunate 
Boldiei-,  wlwse  foot  has  been  bruised  by  a  bullet,  dmga  him- 
se.x  painfully  along  on  all  fours  to  get  out  of  the  fray.  Ue 
leaves  a  long  train  of  blood  after  him.  So  far  they  have 
carried  all  the  wounded  to  the  military  field  liospitals,  but 
at  this  moment  somebody  knocks,  and  leaning  over  the  bal- 


Tin:  loon  i>y/X(!  max. 


425 


tlo  train'ni   (ra<ra- 

Ctioll     (tlu'  \\]H'  of 

irt  of  IVni),  walkrt 
rohbiiij;  oin'ration. 
rsoll    rttTH    liiin,  lio 

t  of  looking  at  the 
L'atl — takes  oii*  its* 
his  pocket,  cryiiit; 
)!<  1"  ami  go  skip- 
breach  is  opened. 
es.     At  a  distance 

13  a  revolutionary 

eleven  hours,  and 
iirht.    At  the  head 
nil  are  in  uniform; 
Ml  wear  a  i>iec-e  of 
rn,  so  as  not  to  he 
lose  uniform  is  the 
small,  the  identical 
n  are  mounted  on 
•t  of  cyndml.    They 
mou  of  the  i)alaco 
nged  in  two  tiles, 
abreast.     The  corn- 
el'— as  soon  as  the 
11  at  once  a  general, 
cuirassiera — doubly 
cuirass  is  of  black 
triumphed, 
windows,  balconies, 
ors  are  tilled  by  the 
hting  at  the  palace. 
r.     A  ball  has  just 

it  as  iK  relic, 
d.     An  unfortunate 
a  bullet,  dmg3  him- 
»ut  of  the  fray.     He 
1.     So  far  they  have 

field  hospitals,  but 
eauing  over  the  bal- 


cony, I  sec  three  Indian  soldiers  seriously  woundt'd,  which 
they  are  carrying  on  woolen  iijaiikcts'lu-ld  at  the  c(>r- 
ncrs  bv  four  assistants.  The  interior  court  is  sipiare,  and 
from  tlie  balcony,  which  at  the  first  story  surrounds  it,(»ur 
eves  look  down  u|iou  a  hcart-n-nding  spectacle.  Of  the 
tiu'ce  Indians,  one  has  his  two  thighs  pii'rccd  by  a  hall. 
Ilewill  recover  from  it.  The  second,  a  very  young  Indian, 
has  received  two  musket  wounds  in  the  abdomen  ;  he  suf- 
fers horribly  and  utters  groans.  A  iihotographcr,  one  of  our 
friends,  a  I'arisian  Joker,  one  of  those  imp'  >us  miscreants 
who  believes  in  nothing,  has  never  ceasi'd  boasting  about 
mn-sing  and  ibiidling  the  wounded,  and  particularly  this 
poor  dying  man;  he  gently  scolds  him,  and  «'alls  (»ut  to 
him,  itlacing  himself  at  a  carry  arms,  "  Soldado  I'eriiano 
Valientol"  the  only  Spanish  words  vhich  the  cholo  under- 
stands. "Si!  Si"  (yi'fi,  yes),  said  the  latter  trying  proudly 
to  stand  up  again,  "Soldado  valientol"  and  vaguely  rolling 
his  eyes,  already  dimmed  by  the  aiijiroach  of  death,  he 
soothes  for  an  instant  his  pains  hi  a  sentiment  of  national 
l»ri(le. 

The  third  has  a  broken  leg.  They  are  all  lying  on  the 
straw,  which  has  been  spread  all  over  the  court' in  anticipa- 
tion of  tlie  wounded. 

Dupeyron,  a  brave  and  worthy  soul,  liis  assistant,  the 
whole  household,  the  women  (need  I  say  it,  for  charity  is 
she  not  fenunine?)  are  everywhere.  The  unfortui'iate 
creatures  from  whom  they  extract  the  balls  suffer  with  a 
stoicism  only  to  be  found  among  the  Indians.  They  follow 
with  their  eyes  the  movments  of  the  doctor,  and  endeavour 
to  learn  from  his  expression  the  gravity  of  their  w*)unds. 
From  time  to  time  they  heave  a  sigh  and  murmur  these 
touching  words,  which,  in  tlieir  language,  would  exi)ress 
"  Ah !  little  father,  I  love  thee"  (tay-tay  nura  to  quiero). 
The  Indian  wounded  in  the  abdoiwen  is'  dead.  The  court 
is  so  full  that  they  have  already  had  to  use  liis  body  as  a 
pillow  for  the  new  comeiu  "  Go  and  get  some  of  the  fathers 
at  St.  Domingo,"  said  Dupeyron  in  the  ear  of  a  cholo,  who 
was  consoling  liis  wounde<l  friend,  which  is  the  same  as 
saying  that  there  are  many  dying. 

3t)* 


I .  Kif.>i';'H»^S^'*».'i 


420 


^■OTES  OF  A  riAMST. 


made  the-  ivinark  thai  all  tl.f.o  thingn  (lun.<.t  Leluni;  t. 
tl  0  vaiKiuislK'd  but  to  till'  untioii,  iind  tliiit  it  was  iit  kw 
Huportl.iourt  to  a.-stroy  it.  He  ,mi.l  lor  Ins  j;<m..1  sense  in  t  i 
ini.lst  of  tlie  brutal  intoxieation,  tor  Ins  ofheer  eut  olt  In 


10  (Vcl.)ck  A.M. 

A  vomiii  In.lian,wliO  received  a  ball  in  his  left  breast,  is 
dviii'--.  I'stoi.  a  monk  in  the  i-assajre  belore  the  .loor  and 
,;,ake  bin,  eon.e  in.  S.iuattinfT  on  the  ;-n'W  he  e..ntesses 
the  dvin.--  man  in  the  Indian  .haleet.  An  otheer  has  been 
shot  thronilh  the  head.     He  died  u.  a  fexy  nnnutes 

The  palace  was  taken,  altir  the  besiegi'i-s  had  set  it 
on  tire  The  unfortunate  Ci-ladorcs  have  surreixlered.  i 
need  not  sav  (O  Vci-le'.)  that  once  inside,  tlu"  eon(,ueroi-8 
(•,.nnnence<rbv  massacring  the  vanciuisiied,  then  m  sacking 
evervthmg.  The  library,  the  mirrors,  the  lurniture,  everv- 
thin-  has  lH...n  broken  an.l  burned.  A  soldier  timidly 
made  the  remark  that  all  these  things^did  n<.t  belong  to 

"  111     li'UHC 

he 
^. ,„.        Im 

iiaiuVwit).  one  blow  of  his  sword. 

The  terrace  of  the  palace  is  covered  with  the  dea<l.  >  K>m 
our  house  we  can  distinguish  the  uniforius  ot  the  corpsen. 
Colonel  I'amarra  was  assassn.ated  aiter  he  had  •^"l"  ;';;,' 
as  also  the  eomii.andant  ot;  the  Celadores,  the  mtendant, 
.111(1  man V  other  suiierior  oitic^M's. 

*    it  i    not  one  division,  but  the  whole  arniy  ot  (  ausoeo, 

which  has  e.derod  Lima.     They  have  deceived   the  a  g - 

H    -e  of  Fe/A-t,  have  turned   his  right  and  have  ca>tered 

!     ing  Lim  behind  them,  when  he  was  tlnnkmghe  had 

hem  m  his  front,     (iomex.  Sanchez  has  saved   ninsel  ;  \m 

in  to  come  and  attack  and  dish.dge  the  reyoli.tioiusts. 
This  ni-ht's  battle  is  then  only  the  prelude  ot  the  tragedy 
l>07..t  has  ten  thousand  fresh'troops  and  lorty-six  cannons 
of  iarei  calibre.  As  soon  as  he  shall  discover  that  !.nna 
has  im-endered  an.l  that  the  revolutionists  are  behin.l  him, 
ilo  will  attack  the  city.  Generals  l^ilta  and  T^ado  scour 
the  streets  with  numerous  escorts  ot  cava  1-3.  llu}  me 
T  dia  s  oftic^ei-s,  negroes,  with  white  ponchos  with  wide 
(  s  of  rc.l,  violet,  and  black,  l)lue  and  green,  ^-^-^^^^ 
a  eol'^v.rs,  arms  of  all  kinds,  from  the  ance  to  the  «int- 
loek  i.istol  The  ^fonteneros  have  muskets  and  make  a 
^^l•y  tine  appearance,  covered  to  the  thighs  with  the  poncho, 


sciiEAAfs  OF  riiK  wofrxrum. 


427 


10  o'cUwk  A.M. 

1 1  liirt  U'l't  bivnst,  is 
H  fore  the  door  iui<l 

H.niW   111'   COlltl'SSOrt 

All  otHivr  luiH  bt'on 
■w  niiiiiiti'?*. 
su'gi'rs  liinl  Hi't  it 
vc  HunriitU'ri'd.  I 
ido,  the  coiHiiU'rors 
it'd,  tlii'ii  in  Slicking 
lie  i'urnituiv,  cvorv- 
A  soldier  timidly 
H  did  not  bc'lonu;  to 
that  it  was  iit  least 
lis  good  sense  in  the 
is  ofKeer  cut  oil' his 

ith  the  dead.  Froni 
"onus  of  the  eorjises. 
he  had  snrrendered, 
ores,  the  intendant, 

le  army  of  Canseco, 
;  deceived   the  vigi- 
t  and  liavc  entered, 
,-jis  thinking  he  liad 
,A  saved  himself;  his 
ezet,  and  will  decide 
f{i  the  revolutionists, 
c^lude  of  the  tragedy, 
ind  forty-six  cannons 
1  discover  that  !.ima 
nists  are  behind  him, 
ilta  and  I'rado  scour 
■  c-avalry.     Thiy  are 
!  ponchos  with  wide 
id  green,  etaialards  of 
he  lance  to  the  Hint- 
nuskets  and  make  a 
ighs  with  the  poncho. 


large  hats  with  wliito  bands  and  a  sort  of  swivel  (^tromblon) 
on  die  thigh. 

They  are  placnig  jijatrwrns  of  calvary  twenty  |(uc»>s  apart 
tlii-ough  the  pruic"nial  streets.  All  tlie  cinin'hcs  arc  riiig- 
intr  the  tocsin.  It  is  evident  that  the  vietorloiis  troops  are 
expccting,aKd.iotwitlioiitalarni,t()I)cattackedby  (hcarmv 
of  I'ezet.  A  thousand  liorscnicii  pass  at  a  gallop  like  n 
whirhvitid.  It  is  fantastic,  niarvclldiis,  iiniicard  of,  savairc 
They  are  the  negro  ciiirassici-s,  with  dirty  faces,  tluir  imi- 
forms  gray  with  dust,  a  lari;e  sort  of  swivel  across  (heir 
sadilles.  Lancers  witli  vio)et  streamers.  Chasseurs  on 
horseback,  then  the  Moiiteiieros  with  scarlet  poiuhos,  apple 
peeii,  nky  blue  ;  all  iheso  yeUiug,  rushing  aloiiir,  brandisji- 
iiig  their  swords,  with  the  stamping  of  ilic  horses,  ci,-. 

The  screams  of  our  iioor  wounded  becr.-jiM  jlcafeniiig, 
theiv;  are  already  twenty-nii-e  of  them,  and  thev  are  con- 
stantly bringing  more  in.  The  c(.rpses  caniK.t  remain  here 
the  whole  night.  The  woun<ls  are  gangrenous,  and  the 
court  being  nn-ored  with  glass  all' the  emanations  for 
want  of  air  rise  into  our  chambers.  The  odour  of  the 
blood  is  already  sickcuiiii;. 

The  wholi-  army  of  Cauzoco  defiles.  After  the  regular 
cavalry  follow  the  free  scpiadrons  of  Moiiteiiero.-.''^  A 
multitude  of  larire  given,  yellow,  and  blue  Ihiirs ;  then  a 
regiment  of  Indians '•  in  bail  cloth,"  the  unitorm  has  a 
singular  effect.  Old  Polish  bonnets  of  the  empire,  of  can- 
vas, also  grayish-white.  The  music  of  this  rei;imcut 
consists  of  little  tin  flutes,  which  play  a  very  (luiek  I'Tivthm 
in  a  minor  key,  at  a  (piick-step  wit'h  a  bass-ilnini  accom- 
pauimeut.  Another  regiment  of  Indians,  musical  instru- 
ments of  copper — barbarous,  fantastic  uniforms,  sirms  the 
same.  A  scpiadroii  of  Indians  irregularlv  armed  with 
lances,  long  Hint  muskets,  some  brandislimg  large  axes. 
Their  features  make  one  shiver  to  look  at  them.  Xothiiii'- 
more  truly  savage  than  all  these  tattered  wretches,  the 
whole  in  coloured  rags.  .  Behind  comes  a  squadron  of 
anned  ravoiias,  wives  of  the  Indian  soldiers,  who  follow 
their  husbands  everywhere  and  ride  astride  ;  one  of  them 
has  a  parrot  solemnly  seati-d  on  her  shoulder.  Xone  of  the 
soldiers  wear  shoes,  nothing  but  sandals. 

AVe  would  like  to  send  our  wounded  to  the  hospital,  but 


i 

i 


'df 


428 


yOTES  OF  A  I'lAMST, 


Low  niv  wo  t..  tn.ns,.<.rt  tl.o.n?     Dunoyron  .s  ni  Mi^spa.r. 
s     u    uf  il.o  w<..M..ls  unless  the  \Ju  are  cxtnu-to.l  w,ll 
W    n     nl::?!.!,  »n.l  al.uost  all   will- booonu.  ^aHjcn-nu.^. 
At  last  a  iMvurhinandur  n..l  ..,,0  IVnmu..  has  ..tU'i.. 
nssi      u  )  has  a.MHva  to  th..l  u  niuk«,  which  is  hanu'ssc;.!  t.. 
rcart  am  Iw.  ula.H.  ..pon  it  „„  a  straw  h.<l  th.v.  ot  the 
wca^Ur    ln,i.ssil.K.olin.liny>pholeon 
,,owa  of  looke-r.  ..n,  ..t  Ka}.ers,  o    hemic  ho'   .       ^n       •  m. 
struttin-  in  the  streets  in  tl.e  nu.lst  <.t  a  eo  U,^.     t  tiKiu  s 
t!r  i.ion  wiling  to  assist  us  in  carryiP     .'k-      .uialea  a. 
liir  as  the  eart! 


'"' :  ,;,  oa,  Kn.tl.nu-n,what  do  vou  teaeh  m  your  e..nventB 
fln.lV.reaeh  To  y..ur  hrothersV  The  l-reeepts  ot  the  gospel 
V-  U'  y  >  vrietise,  should  they  he  <litterent  roiu  those 
v-Viel.    maki  luention  of  a  very  little  virtue  which  is  uu- 

^X;;J  Fa;'inii!^m-ts,  who  ....  fonn^^^^y  tlu^re, 
a.sUe.l  us  witli  a  .levotion  which  sinuilates  the  Chnstiau 
charitv  iovL^otteii  here.  One,  an  uuiuisitive  passer  b>, 
^WWely  wished  to  enter  the  --;t  <>t;  tl.e  ,^iar.uac^y  o 
look  nearer  at  the  pile  of  corpses.  "  (So  lu,  _  1  saul  to  him, 
i'butoncon.lition  that  you  work  and  assist  1.1  carrying  ot 
the  dea.l  ho.lies."  "  A  easo  1111  toina  va  por  un  negm.'  He 
ai  swe  el  me,  casting  on  me  a  withering  look  ot  oftende. 
r.  ity.  "Ah  ha!  'it  is  true  then  that  the  too  trciuent 
em,  act,  the  constant  manipulation,,  the   daily  eommerc^ 

^vith  the  most  beautiful  things  en.ls  uj  r^-rlVfJ-'S^^JII'^^ttl- 
I0118  to  their  greatness  and  their  beauties.        I  hese  nu  i  tU 
wa  take  the  communion  Hfty-two  times  yearly,  have  hve 
ol   six  hnndred  masses  said,  follow  in  all  the  processions, 
and  yet  do  not  undei-staud  the  gospel. 


rUE  ASGEL  OF  LlIAlilTY. 


420 


roil  ir*  ill  iU'Hi>air. 
ire  *'Xtriu'ti'<l  will 
voiiu'  u;iiii.t:i"«'i"»'"*' 
viiUi  luif*  otU'i'i'tl  ti) 
I'll  is  liiinii'ssi'd  t<» 
V  1k'<1  tliivi-  of  tho 
ok'  ol'tlu'  iiiiiiioiiso 
cj  H»)'  '.*.       \vlio  iiro 
CO  t(  s<     t"  tVioiuls, 
i.        11       lUiitk'tl  iw 

■h  in  your  foiiventri 
(•(•lits  of  the  gospel 
itlereiit  from  those 
kirtue  whifii  \^  uu- 

>  fortunately  there, 
ihites  the  Christian 
liiisitive  passer  hy, 
of  the  i>hanna«y  to 

0  in,"  1  said  to  him, 
ssist  in  carrying;  out 
ii  por  ini  !iegro'^"  he 
n»g  look  of  otteiuled 
lilt  the  too  fre(iuent 
the   dail;y^  comnieree 

1  rendermg  you  eal- 
ies."  These  nici;  fel- 
lus  yearly,  have  five 
I  ulf  the  proeessioiis, 


CIIAl'TEU  XXVIII. 

Hnlf-pnst  hIx  o'clnck  P.  M. 

(Jo.MKZ  Santiikz,  the  minister,  has  t'scniK'd,  it  is  not 
known  iio-.v,  from  the  troops  who  have  taken  the  palace 
wlicre  he  conmianded  njt  to  the  last  monii-nt.  lie  i-n- 
trenclu'd  himself  with  a  few  battalions  in  the  little  fort  of 
Santa  Catalina  at  the  extremity  of  the  eity,  and  has  held 
his  ground  since  this  morning  against  the  army  of  Cansfco. 
A  summons  to  yic-ld  has  heeir  sent  him;  he  replied,  ho 
would  sooner  die  than  surrender.  Tiie  hearer  of  the  flag 
of  truce  lias  retin-ned  to  say  on  the  part  of  the  hesiegeiQ 
that  they  would  give  no  quarter  to  him  If  he  did  not  sur- 
render at  discretion  before  sinisi't.     He  has  airain  refused. 

They  continue  to  bring  in  the  wounded  to  us.  Tho 
cart  man  has  made  six  journeys,  and  the  last  of  our 
wounded  liave  Just  gone.  The  ckad  are  carried  off  in  a 
species  of  open  colHn.  The  tk)or  is  impregnated  with  blood; 
after  having  aired  it  as  nmeh  as  possible  we  cover  it  with 
bran,  but  the  emell  of  the  blood  is  still  strong,  and  still 
more  that  of  tlie  eold  sweat  of  the  dying. 

A  Lima  lady,  a  neighbour,  arrived  sit  tlie  pharmacy  nt 
six  o'cloek  this  morning  to  take  care  of  the  sick.  Vor 
twelve  hours  slie  has  taken  no  nourishment,  no  repose; 
her  white  hands  are  stained  with  tlie  blood  of  all  these 
horrible  wounds.  She  has  given  the  most  svmpatlietic 
attention,  and  is  everywhere  like  the  angel  of  charity. 
The  priests  are  missing  this  mornin<r,  many  of  the  un- 
fortunate creatures  are  at  the  jjoint  of  death.  Shu  was 
kneeling  beside  them  and  telling  them  everything  which 
might  console  and  ameliorate  their  anguish.  '■'■Ax  tayta, 
tayta"  (little  mother),  "am  I  dying?'*  "Yes,  my  son," 
replied  the  young  girl,  "and  as  thou  art  a  brave  soldier, 
the  good  God,  his  Son,  and  the  Holy  Virgin  are  awaiting 
thee." 

"Ay,  tayta!  To  behold  them  I  must  confess  to  a  priest?" 


ii 


! 


r 


430 


yOTES  OF  A  FIANI'^T. 


"'ii  the  dear  'H,,.o  ^T^  ^^^^>  ^  ^^' 
which  -ho  !»<"•  «>''','  -Jv      ,1  1  rtkin"  t  10  siKU  i.ftlio 

„o.kU,  to  your  p.ni;uU>,-,  to  J'"    2ly  not  I  who  .«ouia 

t"'"-'!' «'""'•  Ko,on,l»  7,  1985. 

city  (luriiig  the  past  I'^g^^t-  <.^^,,,,eo.     The  result  of 

lie  hu.  Boivt  ifsJ^ZZ     0.]Uo  has  boon  pUagod 

their  r.roeeoauigs  is  not  ivno^vn.  ,.      -^  surrendered. 

Tnd  sacked  by  the  ^f^^^^^^^^^^^o  open  all  the 

My  piano  had  a  na    ow^^^^^^^^^^^  ^^^^  ^^^,1  ^^  taken 

"Z^t^^^^ji^  On  the 

,  [he  tray!    The  dead  ^''^''''Z'l'^^^^ 
cathedml  walls  he  nianyhun^^^^^^^^^  ^^  -^  ^,  ,,,1 

the  combat,  ^^ad  boon  collected  m   he  ti^^^  ^.^^^^^  ^^ 

spectacle,  to  which  the  one.  <^[  ^^^^  ^^^..^e  not  returned 

?^;^1^lKi^^o;S:^.ongth^ 

slain,  add  fresh  l^"f  «^-    ,  ^^    .  ^^,^  ^ead  with'n  the  palace 
aJi^hSr  roS,^ighbou.,acha™h,gyou,,g 


ANOTIIKR  liATTLE  mODABLE. 


431 


just  toll  tlicc,  and 
ids,  thou  \vilt  rfce 

■  over  at  the  car  of 
n  act  of  contrition 
ovd  i>y  word  ;  thon 
iug  tiic  wign  of  the 
rl,  to  run  and  carry 

Tht  to  cling  to  vonr 
,-onarf,  and  to  bnrn 
ly  not  I  who  wonld 
ling  a  doctor  in  the- 
lanUi  Domingo,  you 
oir  acience  will  over 

November  7,  1865. 
vet  aivfrendorod,  and 
'did  not  attack  the 

izeco.     The  result  of 

ao  has  l)oen  pillaged 

s  after  it  surrendered. 

lul  broke  open  all  the 

Use,  have  forced  the 

s,  etc. 

[t  was  at  the  custom- 

md  not  had  it  taken 

ice  to-day. 

ii-e  immense.     Un  tne 

noving  the  vestiges  of 

there  still.  On  the 
corpses,  which,  durmg 
.  church.  It  is  a  sad 
women,  who  eome  to 
ivho  have  not  returned 
long  the  heaps  ot  the 

dead  withui  the  palace 
3urs,  a  charming  yomig 


girl  of  twenty-two,  remarkable  for  lier  beauty,  was  killed 
yesterday  by  a  nuisket-ball  in  her  chest,  at  the  moment 
when,  like  ourselves,  urged  bv  curiosity,  she  sought  to  look 
into  tlie  street  through  tlie  blinds  of  her  balcony.  One  of 
the  proprietors  of  the  Hotel  Maui-in  has  had  both  legs  car- 
ried away  by  a  ball. 

1'lie  Montonoros  continue  to  pass  hy  in  squadrons the 

musket  or  axe  in  their  tist.  Some  of  them  have  the  lance, 
to  which  is  attached  a  lai-ge  green  standard,  which,  soon 
from  afar,  floating  on  the  wind,  has  a  charming  effect  in  the 
iiudst  of  all  the  brilliant  colours  of  the  ponclios. 

6  o'clock  P.  M. 

It  is  probable  that  we  arc  about  to  liave  aoain  another 
battle?.  General  I'ezet  is  a  league  from  the  citv.  Xotwith- 
standing  the  desertion  of  one^  squadron  of  cavalry,  which 
has  gone  over  to  the  enemy,  his  army  is  still  sufficient  to 
dispute  the  victory  with  them.  Santa  Catalina  has  not  yet 
capitulated.  The  i)0[tulace  are  crowdin<>;  in  the  streets 
which  lie  near  the  fort.  The  commander  of  Santa  Catalina, 
and  he  is  riglit,  above  all,  fears  lest  Ids  garrison  and  him- 
self should  bo  massacred  if  he  cai»ituhites.  The  maijazine 
of  the  arsenal  contains  enough  powder  to  blow  do\vn  the 
city  if  the  i)eople  set  fire  to  it.     Our  position  is  horrible. 

We  have  succeeded,  with  great  trouble,  in  [.rocuring  some 
bread.  I^reservos,  sardines,  pies,  are  a  great  relief.  Forcrnos 
IS  installed  in  the  kitchei,  and  makes  us  delicious  fVied 
potatoes,  which  bring  to  mind  those  of  the  'l)arriere  de 
Clichy,'  when  at  boarding-school  I  treated  the  whole  of  my 
schoolmates  with  my  savings  (I  was  then  the  millionaire 
m  virtue  of  being  the  little  American). 

One  of  our  neighbours,  who  found  himself  at  Chorillos, 
without  being  able  to  ^at  l)ack  to  Lima,  has  made  the  whole 
journey  on  foot,  and  met  on  the  road  a  division  of  I'ezet 
advancing  on  Callao. 

Tlniigs  are  taking  decidedly  an  alarminu;  turn.  Gomez 
Sanchez  has  succeeded  in  rejoining  Pezet,  aiid  has  imj.arted 
to  him  a  little  of  Ids  warlike  ai-dour.  It  a])pears  that  as 
soon  as  he  saw  that  the  city  would  succumb,  he  left  dis- 
guised on  horseback,  and  arrived  before  noon  at  the  quarters- 
general  of  the  president.    He  left  in  command  General 


S   I 


f  . 


ii 


4 
if 

s  1 


r 


^g2  NOTES  OF  A  PIASIST. 

hole  the  view  extends  over  '''"^Xv^V;/ tt  f-  r^^^^ 

balustrade  and  "em  ot  the  t™  ''y-  „  .,.„  ,„■,„. 

,0  I  allow  n'J^'lf  !''^*:T  ™,l^l': nd^^ruUs  podtion 
iites  of  en  .nuig  Iran  *« jV-f ';     ™     '„„  the  sight. 

Jd'r  «nu,..l.:oa.    Tin  have  not  yet  «.n.,ed  o«  .n.n;y 
d^d  boilies,  whu'h  "e  -V  'g  on  t  e  icnaec  ^^^^^b^^^ 

honrlna  houses,  wLero  thej  «„,'  hem  They  are  bring- 
The  eathednd  t""™'"  ^  ^"1' 7,'  i"  etery.  A  singular 
ina  them  down  to  lake  them  to  ''° 'J'V  EfwA,  brSther 
eirTsode  wa,  that  ^'^J^^^l^^VfVm  the 

SS^Sil-L^b  oXrt?ms"„°„  iteeting.    Sad  ett'eets 
of  civil  warl  , ,   ,  ^  m 

10  o'clock  P.M. 

It  is  just  announced  touBthat^Pj^^va.^^-^ 
the  fauboum  of  Santa  ^^^^^^X^^^  PoHco,  and, 
ricaded  tV>r  the  nijrht.  ^^^^^  ^  j^^  ^o  the  Monteneros, 
the  streets  bclongmg  duunff  i  le  m  "  ^^^^^^^^ 

it  is  probahle  that  they  w  11  P\\3jr,  rifled     If   they 
Alreally  last  night  a   jewo^^  ^hop  -as  ^^  ^ 

iisjht  to-ni^ht  they  yill  f;:,,*;  ^^.%' Vat  the  first  alarm  I 
rU^rL'S'lXr"e.°"i>u;:;y-ron  ha.  loaaod  two 


J 


FORT  CATAUXA  SURnFXDERED. 


433 


ravrison  sweai'  to 
".<)k  -lie  oath,  and 
10  whole  battalion 
AVhat  is  horrible 
cd  we  have  seen, 
ressod,  were  revo- 
lt.    Two  doctors 
have  assured  nie 
^•hioh  corroborates 
'  conquerors  killed 

the  turret  of  the 
ty,  and  I  perfectly 
^r  of  the  fort.  The 
riddled  with  balls ; 

two  or  three  luin- 
d  perilous  position 
upon  the  sight, 
ogether  already  ex- 
et  carried  oif  many 
rraccs  of  the  neigh- 
d  as  sharp-shooters. 
1.     They  are  bring- 
netery.     A  singular 

ih  brigade,  brother 
ionists.  When  the 
aptured  by  the  con- 
iresident.  The  two 
neeting.    Sad  effects 

10  o'clock  P.M. 
'.et  advances  towards 
ack  it.     AVe  are  bar- 
aiger  any  police,  and, 
it  to  the  Alonteneros, 
some  of  the  houses, 
was  rifled.    If   they 
ty.    Fortunately  the 
,1  at  the  first  alarm  I 
cyron  has  loaded  two 


revolvers.  Forguos  has  a  rifle  which  fiivs  six  times,  and 
another  of  our  guests  a  iiockct  pistol.  Jt  is  not  much',  but 
still  sufficient  to  keep  in  respect  evil  doers  duriiiL'-  the  time 
ni'cessiiry^  for  the  •women  and  children  to  escape  i»y  tlio 
roofs,  which,  as  I  liave  said,  are  flat,  and  separated  from 
each  other  by  a  Httlo  wall  which  can  easilv  be  crossed.  In 
the  mean  while  I  try  to  sleep  and  put  the  bar  of  iron  across 
the  door. 

Octohpf  8,  10  o'clofk  A.M. 

Fort  Santa  Catalina  purrendcred  last  evening,  but  IVzet 
lias  retaken  Callao  and  is  marching  on  l.ima,Vrom  wliich 
he  is  only  three  miles  off.  They  huvo  shot  fifty  (jf  the  pil- 
lagers of  Callao. 

2J  oVIock. 

From  the  tin-rct  the  avnvUgnrdc  of  Pozet  is  seen  udvni- 
cmg  towards  the  city.  The  artillery  and  ea\alrv  are  in 
front.  The  remainder  are  lost  in  the  horizon  in  a^-loud  of 
dust. 

The  dock  tower  of  the  cathedral,  behind   our  house, 
swarms  with  soldiers  posted  there  as  shar])-shootei-s.     At 
the  end  of  c.ir  street,  which  opens  on  the  bridge  of  Rinial 
by  winch  Pczet  i)roposes  entering  the  city,  they  are  erectino^ 
batteries.  ,  *= 

What  will  become  of  us? 

The  revolutionists  have  bosldos  anned  the  populace 
who  are  m  their  favour.  There  is  nothing  for  me  to  do  if 
I  am  able  to  leave  the  house,  but  to  jjo  and  demand  i/ro- 
tection  at  the  American  legation,  tnfortunately  the  fire 
of  the  enemy's  cannon  enfilades  our  street,  and  it  is  more 
than  doubtful  if  we  could  get  there  without  bein<>-  struck 

I  have  some  details  respecting  the  fliglit  of  Gomez  San- 
chez; at  half-past  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  when  he 
saw  that  the  jjalace  could  not  liold  out,  he  escaped  bv  the 
roofs  with  ten  true  and  devoted  followers  (devoted  ?  as  if 
there  could  be  such  in  a  country  where  treason  is  a  conse- 
crated means  of  making  a  fbrtune),  they  succeeded  in  get- 
ting down  into  a  little  street  where  they  found  liorses  but 
some  revolutionary  soldiei-s  discovered  thein,  and  thirty 
horsemen   put   themselves   in  pursuit  of  them.     Gomez 


it 


'1 


434 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


SanehcT!  and  his  suite  betook  themselves  to  the  steep  moun- 
tain roads;  it  was  %' ><r  for  life,  it  was  a  wild  mad  race. 
The  revolutionists,  better  mounted  than  they,  fiained  on 
them  slowly,  and  the  distance  between  them  sensibly  di- 
minished. Une  of  the  horses  of  the  fugitives  gave  out, 
his  rider  was  killed.  The  race  contiimed.  The  balls 
whistled  around  the  nnnister.  "Surrender."  cried  out  the 
pursuers  to  him,  and  he  answered  them  by  sticking  his 
sv)urs  deeper  hito  hi-:  horse's  ilauks.  A  ball  struck  the  oth- 
cer  near  him.  The  unlucky  one  tumbled  into  the  dust. 
The  soldiers  began  to  nuirmur.  "Sm-render  yourselves," 
said  Sanchez  to  them  ;  "  if  you  arc  too  cowardly  to  strive  tor 
liberty,  I  will    '.rrive  at  the  president's  camp  or  I  will  be 

idain."  ' 

Six  soldiers  stopped,  and  putting  their  handkercbiets  at 
the  end  of  their  sword,  they  gave  the  signal  that  they  sur- 
rendered. In  the  mean  time  Gomez  took  the  lead,  and 
after  a  breathless  race  of  two  hours  arrived  at  an  ovavt- 
poste  of  I'ezet's  hoi-semen.  Without  taking  time  to  rest 
he  divided  them  into  two  comi)anies,  and  ret nrneil  with  one 
of  them  on  his  tracks,  whilst  the  other,  by  a  circuit,  was  to 
fall  on  the  rear  of  the  pursuing  horsemen,  lie  met  the 
band  ;  a  fight  took  place.  Taken  between  the  iifteen  lan- 
cers of  the'minister,  and  the  fifteen  others,  who  cut  off  their 
retreat,  they  were  obliged  to  surrender  at  discretion,  as  well 
as  the  six  deserters,  who  one  hour  before  had  abandoned 
the  minister. 

Ijccidallll  this  little  lawyer  is  in  soul  a  hero,  in  body  a  dcvd 
(unfinished). 

December  13,  1865. 

My  fears  arc  realized  on  the  suljject  of  the  locality,  which 
the  partial  giving  way  of  the  theatre  has  forced  me  to 
choose,  in  orl^ler  to  continue  the  series  of  my  concerts  which 
hnvc  been  interrupted.  It  was  in  fact  doubtful  if  the 
'society  of  Lima  would  not  be  frightened  at  the  idea  of 
enterii.g  into  the  hall  and  gardens  of  Otaiza,  the  reruvian 
Afabide,  where  every  Sunday  the  tapadas  (veiled  women) 
and  their  "amigas"  had  their  rendezvous,  to  give  them- 
selves up  to  the  stormy  'Zarnaenccas'  and  other  indigenous 


'i  **i!  mtiUmmmi^imm 


CONCERT  AT  OTAIZA. 


435 


^  the  steep  moiin- 
i  wild  nuul  nice. 
tlu'V,  fjiiinod  on 
Hicin  Heiisibly  di- 
gitivos  guve  out, 
lued.  The  bulKs 
er."  cried  out  the 
I  by  sticking  his 
ill  struck  the  otH- 
jd  into  the  dust, 
luler  yourselves," 
■ardly  to  strive  for 
.•amp  or  I  will  be 

handkerchiefs  at 
nal  that  they  sur- 
)ok  the  load,  and 
ived  at  an  ovant- 
king  time  to  rest 
retnrneil  with  one 
y  a  circuit,  was  to 
jon.  lie  met  the 
•en  the  lifteon  lan- 
S  who  cut  otf  their 
discretion,  as  well 
ire  had  abandoned 

ero,  in  body  a  devil 


December  13,  1865. 

the  locality,  which 
has  forced  me  to 
my  concerts  which 
•t  doubtful  if  the 
ed  at  the  idea  of 
:aiza,  the  Peruvian 
as  (veiled  women) 
r>u8,  to  give  them- 
i  other  indigenous 


dances,  which,  altliough  very  [licturosfiue,  are  not  such  as 
l)rudont  mothei-s  permit  their  daughters  to  indultre  in. 

In  the  face  of  this  difKculty  tjiere  was  oidy  one  means 
of  overi^oming  it ;  raise  the  price  of  the  tickets  so  hiirh  as 
to  be  only  within  tlie  reach  of  those  privileged  bv  fortune. 
I  put  them^  up  to  two  dollars.  It  remains  now  'to  boll 
the  cat.'  TJie  ladies  were  al'raid  of  compromising  thc^m- 
selves,  no  one  was  willin«r  to  be  the  first,  althouuh  they 
were  all  dying  with  curiosity  to  j)enetratc  into  the'proiime 
sanctuary  al)out  which  ^ood  and  evil  tona;ues  had  l)een 
talking  for  a  very  long  time.  The  thick  groves,  tlie  dark 
alleys,  the  kiosks,  spoke  ])owerfully  to  the  imagination, 
but,  then,  what  would  jieople  say? 

One   of  my   friends  i)ersuade(l   liis   sisters   (o  sacrifice 

themselves.     The   rimiour  spread  that  (leneral and 

liis  family  liad  taken  twenty  seats.  In  four  hours  the 
hall  was  full.  The  first  concert  was  not  finished  before 
the  seats  were  already  taken  for  a  second. 

Besides  'Otaiza,'  the  proi>rietor,  who  has  been  to  Paris, 
where  ho  lias  assiduously  visited  for  two  vears  the 
Mabille  Gardens,  had  done  things  like  a  lord.  The 
gardens  were  lighted  a  giorno.  Tlie  floor  and  alleys  had 
been  watered  with  eau  de  Cologne,  and  every  ladv  received 
on  entering  the  hall  an  enorinous  bouquet  of  Voses  and 
magnolias. 

At  each  of  my  concerts  'Eanjo,'  'Murmures  Eoliens,' 
'Charmes  du  Foyer,'  'Ojos  Criolos'  (the  last  has  been 
encored  throe  times)  wore  called  for  again. 

This  eveninc;  I  gave  a  seventh  concert,  i  ^lay  for  the 
first  time  an  important  arrangement  Avhici.  I  have  just 
written  on  '  Le  Eallo  in  JSIaschera.' 

We  are  literally  on  the  eve  of  a  war  with  Spain,  for  the 
decree,  people  say,  is  to  be  published  tf)-morrow.  The 
conflk't  between  the  latter  and  Chili  renders  imminent 
the  liostilc  particii)ation  of  Peru,  the  Spanish  American 
republics  being  so  strongly  connected  with  eac'  other  by 
their  common  origin  and  their  political  instituti  ns. 

Lima,  January  13,  18G6. 
My  concerts  are  finished.     They  have  been  profitable, 
and  my  success  has  very  much  surpassed  my  expectations. 


^'J**' 


486 


NOTES  OF  A  riANrST. 


YAshi  (lava  a?o  a  ^uyovh  doooratKMi  was  proscnto<l  to  mo , 
ff  ribbon  attacho.1  to  it  i.  Avbito  and  ml      1  tbink 
l<^n^  to  re«t  n.ysclf  at  CboriUos,  un.    to  take  tl'o ;ca-bu  bs 

fbero,  for,  altbongb  .lanuary,  we  are  "^/'j'J;;;,"'  .''aUo  To 
riUos  is  tbree  batjuos  tVom  Lima,  and  I  si  all  ho  ahlc  to 
'  0  o  tbe  citv  ovcrv  day.  I  bavo  tbo  idea  ot  gcnu^^  to 
Cbili,  ;^n 'b  is  oigbt  days  from  bere  by  steamer,  tbe  croHsmg 
being  as  tranquil  as  on  a  lake. 

CiioBiixoB,  FuTiruary  2,  1866. 

T  Ivive  been  resting  for  fifteen  days  in  a  d„lccfar  vjrntc, 
^vbiJb  Imd  beecnne  indispensable  on  aeeomit  of  tbe  fatigues 

^'tI;::  K  Sf  ^  tbe  civil  war  in  Spain  bas  tbK>.^  all 
tbe  S.nnisb  Amerieas  into  commotion.  Being  at  wai^Mtli 
tbe  l&nla,  tbey  are  rejoiced  at  seeing  them  entangle.l  in 
tbeir  attairs  at  home.  l.m.,  March  18, 1866. 

I  have  been  introduced  to  Raymondi,  an  Italian  savant, 
an  e  SmsU  s  in  natural  history.  He  has  been  t rave  ling 
fi'r  ten  vears  on  foot,  knows  all  Peru,  and  has  explored  tbe 

;e;^oi';;gions,to  this  day  uiiknowii.  He  bas^niea 
.rreat  deal  about  the  coca  and  its  ettects..  Ibe  coca  is  tne 
e^y  a  small  tree  which  supplies  flic  same  place  arrjo.^ 
tbe  Indians  that  opium  docs  among  the  C.hine>e  Jbeic  s 
not  an  Indian  who  does  not  always  carry  m  a  little  leather 
bao-  huntr  to  his  neck  a  supply  ot  coca. 

Ibe  Sects  of  this  plant  klthougb  not  ascertained  by  the 
i.bvsk'ians  are  marvellous.  Tbe  Iiulians,  under  its  mfiu- 
^nccT  emrsus  ain  ]ourneys  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty  hours 
Se^  t:\th  heavi  burcLs,  remain  wid.oiit  -ting  fimr 
or  five  days,  and  do  not  becomo  weaker  i(  r  it.  ^p^^lc  icis 
on  foreign\«xpeditions  are  all  always  furnished  with  their 

"'V\l  i"  the  mode  of  proceeding  employed  by  the  Indians 
for  -ati  c/ "oca.  S^bey  talce  tbe  loaf,  aftor  baying 
enrived  itof  its  filaments  and  make  a  ball  of  it  which 
tbev  ni  i  a  corner  of  their  mouth  like  a  quid  of  tobacco, 
en  w  tb  a  little  silver  or  gold  pin,  the  point  of  winch 
tev  moisten  with  their  saliva  and  dip  into  a  little  box 
SSdS  nme,tbey  prick  the  ball.    The  grams  ot  hme 


i_ 


EFFECTS  OF  COCA. 


487 


roscntod  to  mo ; 
0(1.  1  think  of 
iko  tlio  soii-batlis 
iHiuniner.  Cho- 
sliall  1)0  altlo  to 
idea  of  goiii^^  to 
mer,  tlio  crossing 

February  2,  lf*6(5. 

a  diilccfar  vin)t(\ 
lit  of  tlio  fatigues 

u  has  thrown  all 
3eing  at  war  with 
hem  entangled  in 

,iA,  March  18,  1866. 

an  Italian  savant, 
8  been  travelling 

has  explored  the 

[le  has  told  mo  a 

The  coca  is  the 

^ame  itlaee  among 

Chinese.     There  is 

in  a  little  leather 

ascertained  l)y  the 
IS,  under  its  intlu- 
II  to  twenty  hours 
hout  eating  four 
r  for  it.  Soldiers 
mished  with  their 

red  by  the  Indians 
leaf,  after  having 
I  ball  of  it  which 
a  quid  of  tobacco, 
10  point  of  -which 
p  into  a  little  box 
L'hc  grains  of  lime 


adhering  to  the  pin  remain  in  the  ball.  They  tlien  chew, 
and  as  it  ajipears  tliat  there  shoidd  be  a  certain  proportion 
between  tlie  lime  and  the  coca,  to  produce  this  condition, 
tiny  add  sometimes  a  leaf  of  coca,  or  dip  again  their  pin 
inti»  thc(  lime,  according  as  they  wish  to  augment  the 
(piantity  of  the  one  or  tlie  other. 

The  effects  of  the  coca  are  generally  felt  at  tlic  expira- 
tion of  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  "Their  marches  are  measured 
by  the  number  of  cocades  consumed.  Such  a  village  is  at 
the  distance  of  ten  cocades,  which  is  the  same  as  saying 
that  a  peon  could  go  the  distance  l)y  rumiing,  provided  ho 
had  ten  rations  of  coca,  and  a  quarter  of  an  hour  at  each  one 
of  the  arma(h)s.  These  are  a  kind  of  station.  The  peons 
are  seen  to  arrive  pantuig,  their  tongues  drv,  hanging  out 
of  their  mouths,  their  eyes  projecting  anil  bK)odshot.  at 
the  stopping  jdaco  for  the  cocado.  they  fall  exhausted 
and  seem  ready  to  die  with  fatigue,  but  inuiiediately  they 
spit  out  the  liall  already  masticated  and  proceed  to  the 
making  of  the  new  one. 

Little  by  little  the  effects  of  the  wonderful  plant  can  bo  seen 
hi  their  organism  and  in  their  features,  and  at  the  tenth 
nunute  they  are  ready  to  rise  and  continue  their  journey. 

Marcli  20. 

I  have  embarked  on  board  the  Lirnena  ihv  Islay.  Islay 
is  a  little  port  about  one  hundred  leagues  south  of  Lima. 
I  go  there  only  to  get  on  shore,  Islay" being  oidy  a  small 
boroujili ;  but  it  is  animated,  being  the  outlet  on  the  swa  to 
Arequi^)a,  a  city  of  thirty  or  forty  tliousand  iidiabitants, 
which  IS  situated  at  the  distance  of  thirty  leagues  in  the 
interior.  It  is  necessary  to  cross  a  desert  of  sand,  and  the 
baggage  is  transported  on  nudes.  There  are  ten  parados 
or  tandjos.  The  tandjo  is  a  relay  and  at  the  same  time  a 
refuge  for  the  traveller  overtaken  by  the  night.  It  is 
mostly  a  hut:  four  stakes  covered  over  witli  a  roof  of 
leaves.  One  sleeps  there  or  slielters  himself  from  the  heat 
of  the  sun  and  the  rain. 

I  am  going  to  Arequipa.  I  am  curious  to  see  this  locus 
of  insiirrection.  The  Arequipenos  are  celebrated  for  their 
indomitable  .-haracter  and  theii  warlike  disposition.  Every 
revolution  commences  at  Arequipa,  and  the  soldiers  are 
considered  brave  among  the  brave. 

37* 


488 


NOTES  OF  A  PI  AM  ST. 


I  romen>1.ov  u  <lvin-  Indian  hoMut    the  Bixtli  of  last 

nl    i  V  o  •  Amiuipa  is  whito,  u..d  has  a  i-rotty  an^ai- 

r  Jt^luok^  like  i  dove  cnrnded  in  a  m-st  c.     ..sos 

: .vra  poet ;  ^Nith  its  bac-k  tc>  a  largo  volrano  -^:^}^^^^l 
.       •  it  i.roscntsthe  most  pu-turesquo  view.     -H'^;;  /^^^ 

...  in  /ho  environB  in  fresh  and  ^roon-a  rare  thn.g  in 
I'mu     '  oro  the  country  is  gray  duKly,  "»;»»'••'•  .  ^.,..,,,^,,j^ 

Al    thoBG  ^vho  have  travelled  tro.u  Tslay  to  AiMlini^ 
1       i-   u   tr^    Trif>   nq   a  hcrc'idcan    labour.       ino    '"'^^ 

£,d  S k*,  'vl  ".-0  jof,  can  .1.0,  -i.l.ou.  nnuh  tc,,,'  ,.. 

"'TlX.Tl'.a.  to  1.0  -a™,,  twolvc  loaguo.,  mul  oo.t, 
ton  sous  11  buikotlul  for  tlio  oattlo. 

March  22. 

A     •     1  „*  TJnv      A  few  miserable  huts  hanging  to 

Arnvod  at  May.     A  ^^'J  "^  ^,^,1^,.  ^^,^  elitfs  and 

steep  reeks.     Ine  hea  na^  nuuu. -.iv.  Tf  ;<  n/ 1  a  very 

if  ncit  more  commodious.     It  is  y^/^^^^,   •> '7''  q,,^  i,,,^,^^ 

ashore  without  being  drowned.-  plant,  only 

wv^at  M   droarv  aspect      iSot  a  Icat,  not  a  r''"^^' ""/.. 
mI  Sy  rockt^TVe  Spaniards  being  the  red  f-^f^^^ 


AUF.QUIPA,  ah/ca. 


439 


ho  sixth  of  lust 
■longud  to  u  ivgi- 
'^'on,  Scnor,  tloi 
r   of    Kiiiiok'ou'rt 

the  Uld  (iuard. 
<  a  inc'tty  iii>iit'ar- 

a  noHt  of  Uiivos, 
•alio  I'ovcivd  with 
lew.  The  vegeta- 
1— a  rare  thing  in 
lul  aritl. 

nlav  to  Arequiiia 
ibour.  The  first 
•rive  at  the  Ihinho 
stahlished  a  little 
liout  much  fear  of 

leagues,  and  costs 

March  22. 

;  huts  hanging  to 
inder  the  cliffs  and 
.  It  is  u'A  a  very 
slay  without  being 
the  cliff  in  a  chair 
ess  dangerous  now, 
hy  means  of  beams 
adder.  One  hangs 
•ynuiastics,  and  getr 
'  certain  of  getting 

r,  not  a  plaint'  ^"^y. 
the  red  iihantom  ot 
passport.  A  liou- 
top  of  the  scaffold- 
;  examined  my  pass- 
:  hear  my  name  re- 
»ung  merchant,  who 
ouse.  AVe  arc  soon 
the  customs  and  the 


military  oommandant.  Two  travellers  who  arrive  at  this 
iMonii'iit  from  Arcriuipa,  and  who  have  made  the  journey 
in  tAventy-liMir  hours  at  one  stage,  present  such  a  look  of 
fatigue  and  of  miseries  undergone  \>v  tliem,  tliat  1  give  up 
going  there.  Hi'siilcs,  f  learn  tliut  the  theatre  at  AVe(iuipii 
has  no  roof.  The  evil  is  not  great  in  a  country  wliere  it 
does  not  rain  for  nine  mouths;  but  tlie  winter  is1)ci!:inning, 
and  in  eight  days  the  deluging  rains  will  also  luake  their 
apiiearance,  conse(|uently  1  should  have  to  wait  three 
mouths  to  be  able  to  auuouiice  a  concert,  the  publii-  never 
going  to  the  theatre 'in  the  winter  for  a  good  reason.  I 
will  continue  my  voyage  to  the  south  as  far  as  Arica, 
another  little  jtort  fifty  leagues  to  tlu;  south  of  Islay,  i  1  I 
return  to  tho_  boat  which  has  just  shot  off  a  caiiu-  i — ; 
signal  of  leaving. 

At  the  foot  of  the  cliff  a  little  cove  is  formed,  w^  o  th 
sea  exhausts  itself  in  little  soft  ri[>]i!es  on  a  beach  • '  ii.  >rc, 
Hat,  white  stones.  Some  young  children,  all  luKei,  ,  re 
bathing  there.  A  young  Indian  girl  is  swimiuiig  a  ion^* 
them  in  water  so  transparent  that  I  can  see  thaf  ^\e  wcail 
no  bath hi^  costume.  She  has  placed  a  hand ke^  '"  ,)ver 
her  chest,  but  in  swimming  it  has  got  up,  and  now  answers 
for  a  cravat.     Besides,  nofcodj  seems  to  see  her. 

March  23. 

Landed  at  Arica,  a  pretty  country  toAvn  seen  from  the 
sea.  An  immense  rock,  which  runs  out  into  the  sea  and 
overhangs  the  town,  is  crowned  with  a  battery  of  largo 
cannons.  It  is  an  admirable  natural  fortification.  Last 
year  the  constitutional  IVruvian  squadron  came  to  bom- 
bartl  Arica,  which  had  pronounced  for  the  revolution,  but 
it  was  obliged  to  retire,  no  shot  being  able  to  reach  as  high 
as  this  battery  perched  upon  the  rock. 

With  a  small  effort  of  the  imagination  one  can  see  an 
immense  sphynx  itlaced  alongside  of  the  town  and  seeming 
to  guard  it.  Its  gray  and  bald  croup  extends  into  the  in- 
terior of^  the  country,  and  loses  itself  in  a  chain  of  moun- 
tains which  bounds  the  horizon  behind  the  town.  Tlie  city 
of  Arica  is,  in  truth,  a  little  country  town.  Its  imiwrtance 
is  due  particularly  to  its  proximity  to  Bolivia. 


440 


iiOTES  Oh'  .1  I'l.^SlST. 


'n,,,o  1.  on  lM.un   a  '"'y'^  '  "/.^  '\     ,,.  ,,,,10  u'o  t.»  Bolivia 

withhi.n.    1^»\^'''^'»'';;''^'"V  '  '  ;  fu  ,  I  wlu..v  there  are  no 

Hotels.    AHi\>rthcMhu.j:.M  ,  M  a.^     ;'>^^  ,,,,,y 

tnivellini;  "^•^•»'l^'"*V  ll  ,^f  .loU-irrt  arc  sent  in  eases 

month  hun.hvas  au.l  ^^T^^^^^^^^  -'.leteers, 
,,  le  ot>;--ha  es^  un.    .  th      on^^  ^,,^  .j^,      ,, 

una  a  real  is  neve  "»^^  'p  hnn.hv.l  leai,nieH.  It  olten 
tnivelle.1  is  two,  •'''^■^'v "  /  '/2,  ti..nea  to  nu-  by  nnn.y 
Uai.pons  (the  laet  has  -*;^'^;;  J'^ r  ,  n'wes  at  Taei.a  with 
nKVehants)  that  the  eon  oy  ot  i  an       ^^^  .^^^^^^^  ^^^^^ 

one  nu.le  nussu.-  and  aU>  ^^^     '  V,  ^i^^  i„aian,  "and 

si;';s;::„^';;:;;;?s"^:;ro?^:^L,i„.:,a„a,„.i,„. 

it  with  him  on  his  next  trn..  ^^^  Spanish 

There  is  at  the  V^'-^f        ^^f  ^ts  lanll,  playin^^  in 
actors,  ^vho  are  fjo.ng  to  l^mnos  A   u  _^^  ^..^^^^^^^^ 

every  ;o^v^r^tl\^/"^^\:  .^     ^4   ^  ^^^^^  l-^-^'"!-  ''"^^|« 
K  J=e!^  ti^Mll^^y -^'  1-^as  of  whU  sh.gnlarly 

^Tll"beenpro„i.i;uU,i.nio.^mT^^^^ 

is  like  all  the  Spanish  ?-'>V?n,ek  r is^  pe^^^  ^" 

ond  bric-a-brae.  The  l'\  (^^.^.  ;^^,'^^^.  J","'  t  s  entirely  k^y 
one  of  the  sides  ot  the  ^;1,^"\  '  ^"l"^  '^j,^  ^f  its  heiiiht-tho 
and  bare.  One  can  I'^^^-'Ib.  ^^^^^.^^  r'.tablish  the  ,.roi.or- 
eye  having  no  romt  ot    I  1  "^^tiuc  ^^^^  ^^        ^ 

tions  of  this  vas   granitic  ";^^^?  ^^'^'y^^,  i„  opposite  dircc- 
lew  littlewhitcliness  nj-e^bk    a  z^^^^^  ^^^^^^ 

tions;  these  are  the  I'^^^^-^Xar 
battali<M.  of  soldiers  "V,  ^^!?^^J,^^\^'  ^  as  if  only  a  few 
secnd  from  the  top.    .1''^^^""';^  ^.^^..^-ly  a^  if  they  were 
yards  oti'.     I  distinguish  them  as  cluiuy 


IM)IA.\S  OF  A  Y.{(  I CIKK 


AW 


lort  iV(MU   Tiuiia. 
liv  rail, 
ougli  Ttu'iui  ami 

i<luisani,tliiM'ai.i- 
i.  to  go  to  Uoliviu 
^iicsot't'oiintryon 
lii'iv  thoro  arc  no 
•  tVoiu  liKi<«;iu'an(l 
mkiiowii.  '   Kvi'i-y 
i  are  *i.'\\\  in  <'a>*c'S 
Iiulian  uuiU'twi-H, 
idinji  the  tlistaiieo 
leaii;ueH.     H  "t't*"" 
ed  to  nie  l).v  many 
ivertat  Tacna  willi 
lie  animal  lias  dietl 
the  Indian,  "and 
m;  it  to  yon  on  the 
ho  tindrt  the  case  of 
animal,  and  hrings 

a  troop  of  Spanish 
hv  land,  playing  in 
(inal  in  «listaiu-e  to 
sliall  iierhaps  make 
)f  whieh  singnlai'ly 

rheehurehof  Ariea 
s— full  of  gcw-gaws 
perpendicularly  on 
It  is  entirely  gray 
a  of  its  height— the 
tjstablish  the  propor- 
pierces  the  sky.     A 
bra  in  opposite  direc- 
ir  optical  ettbct.     A 
lead  toy  soldiei-s,  de- 
nie  as  if  only  a  few 
.urly  as  if  they  were 


nhout  to  ton<'li  mc,  aI»sohiti'ly  as  if  I  was  looking  at  itn  ob- 
ject tlirniigli  the  large  end  of'  an  opera  glass. 

\\\'  ha\i'  on  lioard  an  indivi(hiai  who  has  jnst  iieeii  ap- 
pointed coiiiniandaiit  general  ol'  liie  lorlitications  of  Arica. 
lie  is  a  distinguished  man,  and  i'nll  of  moderation-  u  rare 
thing  among  the  Peruvians. 

There  is  a  decree  of  I'rado's  which  suhji'cts  to  a  very  se- 
vere penalty  every  Peruvian  wliose  service's  may  he  retii'iired 
l>y  the  government,  and  who  shall  refuse  to  accejit  its  man- 
(late.  ("oloncl  \.  (i,  has  hecii  oliliged  to  aliandon  his 
family  to  eome  to  Arica  to  take  the  ccimmiual  of  the  forti- 
ftcations. 

lie  relates  to  me  sonu'  of  his  campaigns  in  the  interior. 
In  the  department  of  Ayacucho  there  are  villages  and  en- 
tire districts  whose  inhahitants,  for  the  most  part  Indians, 
are  so  ferocious  and  independent  that  no  one  has  evt-r  hei'U 
ahle  to  1  ollect  the  taxes,  oi-  make  them  suhmit  to  any  of 
the  burdens  imjiosed  upon  the  other  c;M/.eiis  of  the  ri'|iub- 
lic,  whilst  they  exact  Iron*  the  govoniment  that  protection 
whicli  it  extends  to  all.  They  were  obedient  to  the  govern- 
ment of  Marshall  Santa  Crii/,  for  forty  years,  because  Santa 
Cruz  was  u  half  Indian — his  moiher  being  a  ('aciipie  (a 
descendant  of  tlie  privileged  iiimilies  of  the  Incas),  Xear 
to  Ayacneho  these  Indians  liavo  elected  a  governor,  who 
was  called  for  a  long  time  a  Peruvian  general  by  his  own 
authority.  His  sfm  (the  general  was  dead)  governed  when 
IX  N.  Vergas  was  sent  by  the  republic  of  Lima  to  take  the 
command  with  the  title' of  colonel.  He  was  a  fat  Indian, 
Ulthily  dirty,  who  smelled  strong  of"  dirt  fen  feet  off.  "  I 
made  him  a  present  of  a  ]»air  of  epaulettes,"  said  \'ergas  to 
me,  "but  lie  did  not  know  what  to  do  with  them,  being 
naked,  with  the  exception  of  his  sash.  He  fastened  therii 
to  it,  as  well  as  lie  could,  and  demanded  that  the  music  of 
the  regiment,  which  I  had  brought  with  me,  should  i)arade 
the  streets  with  liini  in  order  that  all  might  see  him  with 
his  ensign  of  colonel." 

This  population  is  a  very  savage  one.  Tlioy  tear  out 
the  eyes^  of  their  prisonei-s,  and  the  bones  froin  out  the 
limbs  with  horrible  retinemeiits  of  cruelty.  They  are 
Catholics;   have  their  churches  and  their  priests,  which 


I 


H 


^^o  yOTKS  OF  A  riASI.^T. 

a,l  not  prevent  tl.n.  On  the  SU.nv(^.nU,U■n..Vo,nb.u., 

•,.  v.ry  h>..^^a.u    hm.l  n     '«',;,.;,  ,,a,  the  nver.     At 
.h-elivUieH  on  a  '-•<»  ^'''^    ,      ?  h       vn  Iron.  on.  M.'  to  the 

;:;i;;:;:;;r;;:ilaat;u-h;w^u^i  .,. .v.- .>.. tnnn... 

tuou.ly,u...lwithuuoi«e.  ^^^^^^^^^^_ 

Three  Tn.lhu.  ^'-^,^-1,^"  Th^I"  r^tt./ tljun 
,„ule.  are  loaded  with  ;  »  \  j.^^,  ^^H.y  have  travelled 
l.oto.i,who  «;ome  t'-'>''  ';^.':  ;;i  the  (le.erts,the  (or- 
three  hundred  h'a-ues    haxt  ^^         ^^.^^j^  ^, 

dillerasan.l  nve.-n;  have  t«'m  J  ^^   ^,j.  ^,,^, 

ad   ^vo^th   fifteen,  thou.sand      .  kh        i|»<^  ;  ^p,^,  ,i,o1„ 

Uuan.  of  'J'f  i'^;-'f5  i;:;;^^    m^.nLn:Jtie  teature.  do 
of  IVru  IS  tat,H,nal,th    K.  net  l^^^^^^^  ^^„,,  ^,„,,a  ly 


1 


'-^  ^'"i^f  '^  The'll.   vhm^    Vlnn;  hi.  nkin,  of  an  earthy 
i,eaeeahle.      Uie   lioiniau  ,,     .   .  |-     ,, hvs  ognnniy  w 

Irown,  ai.pn>aehes  a  niost    o     lack  ,  t^^         >^^  aHu.aranee 
tluit  of  a  hrute-  Ins  t'>r  '     '  .'  ai  ^^^^  ^^„,\',,i,  ,o„. 

of  a  monkev  and  tt>e  Vea   m  his    V^^  j^  ^  to 

avu-t ;   his  features  a.e  ^^''       '«^'    '  ,-,  i,i,th,  and  eut  slop- 

hisears;  1^^^  ^'^^h' H^^V^    '    ^^^^^^^         his  forehead  is  dc- 
i,,,totheno^nK..  Ukeam<^^^^  ^ 

l-lrto^hile^:;^^ 

TAt  NA,  At)ril  2. 

o         '        Tho  soeietv  of  Taona  is  natiU-ally 


I, 


>A,  M.mh'24.  IHim. 

MroiiK'imtU',  wliiili 
l„-t\vi»i>  twoHtony 
•(•<l,  tlu-  riviT.  At. 
•oiii  <.ll.'^i<W•  ♦'•'''*' 
river  tlown  tunml- 

Mnrcli  ;U. 

,m  Bolivia.  'Hnir 
,  lire  IiKliiinrt  tVoin 
'hey  liiivi^  tnivelh'd 
ho  deserts,  the  ('"r- 
y  iiiul  uiKlitwith  a 
The  tvpo  of  the 
)f  iVrii/  Tlie  eholo 
itiithetie  ieutures  do 

mild  and  <?eiierally 
rt  skin,  of  an  earthy 
his  i>liVsiogiif>i>»y  I'* 
i  has  tiie  iMtpfaranee 
/enients  and  hi'^  «">- 

mouth  is  oi'ened  to 
,rt  hirth,  and  eut  slop- 
, ;  his  forehead  is  de- 
I'jrh,  stitf,  dull  IdiH'k 
\ie  rigidity  in  thiek 
ittlo  round  eyes,  very 
ice  to  the  luonkey. 

Tacna,  A^ril  2. 

of  Taona  is  natdrally 
i  married  to  Taenenas, 
•en  eivilizod  by  a  few 
or  three  rieh  taiuibes 


FACTITIOUS  MllSTOCliA r/KS. 


448 


of  the  coiuitry,  arc  tlio  eloiuents  eoiiHtifutint'  (he  siu-lit>i  of 
Tar,, 


,,ll. 


W'eiilth  heiiiijf  almost  the  only  nrisfuri'i, cy  re<ii(riii/,(M| 
ani<)i,<;  |ii,rvei,iis  and  ie]iiil)liri,,is,  il  cj,,,,,"!  lie  Lriiii,si,id 
that  the  S  —  (the  fathi-r  is  Kiiirlish),  who  are  rieii,  wi,o 
liave  a  hrother.in  London,  wl,i>  I, avi'  triveii  soirees,  wiio 
possess  the  only  ei,i'i'ia_tiv  iii  the  city,  occupy  the  first  ,'aiil\. 
I  have  nnt  the  least  ol»j»'ction  to  these  ass,,i,,ptioi,s  nt'supe- 
rJiMity.  That  — — -  slioidd  he  the  centre  of  his  little  cii-cle, 
I  have  not  the  least  ilesiixs  to  ojipose.  lint  that  this  ii,,- 
pc'ccptilile  cei,ti'e  of  a  i,,icrosi(iiiie  cii'cle  >lio,,ld  jiei'sist  ii, 
i)clicvii,i;'  himself  a  eel, tl'"  when  I, i' goes  oiitsiiK'  of  his  lidle 
sphere,  is  what  I  tind  riniculoiis.  I'naccnstomed  to  he 
seen  outside  of  tin-  factitious  atiiios|ihere  where  tln'ir  salis- 
tieil  vanity  exercises  itself,  ll,e>e  little  centres  I'oi'ifct  that 
they  are  nohodies  except  when  surrounded  hy  ofhi-rs 
inferior  to  themselves.  What  would  he  tlioiijiht  of  a 
Jiilipntian,  who,  owii.g  to  his  g.-eat  height,  has  heeii 
inade  dnim-major  of  a  Jiilipntian  regirneiit,  who,  thrown 
into  the  midst  of  ijianis,  should  still  aspire  to  the  preroga- 
tives of  the  drum-majoralty'f     AhsurdI 

There  is  nothiiiij  more  irritating  than  tliosi'  factitious 
aristocracies  which  can  he  explained  only  hy  tlie  inferiority 
of  those  among  whom  they  move, 

t^ome  very  pretty  wonn'ii  at  the  treasurer's.  The  dances 
are  quadrilles,  the  lancers,  the  polka,  tin;  waltz,  and  the 
dance  llahanesa,  which  they  dance  here  entirely  diti'ereiit 
from  what  they  do  at  Havana.  After  supper  they  dance 
thi'  me<apa([Uena:  it  is  a  species  of  Bolivian  Indian  cpiad- 
rille,  whose  music,  in  a  minor  key,  with  u  racking  rhythm, 
reniinds  one  a  little  of  the  Aral*  melodies.  The  figures  are 
numerous  and  complicated.  .Sometimes  the  lady,  conducted 
hy  two  cavaliers,  advances.  The  step  is  always  the  same 
throughout  the  whole  (luadrili';  it  i(j  a  skipping  from  one 
foot  to  the  other,  rapidly  and  lightly,  which  nives  to  the 
ladies  the  appearance  of  a  shiveriii!;  throuirhout  their  body. 
Sometimes  tlie  lady  leads,  the  arms  extended,  holding  a 
handkerchief  hy  the  two  etids.  With  head  inclined,  she 
milker^  the  tour  (vf  tlie  room;  then  all  at  once,  like  a  frighr- 
ened  u  >ve,  she  flies  and  escafies  to  one  extrenuty ;  then 
slowly  ritunis,  with  her  head  turned  backward,  as  if  she 


t 


444 


NOTES  OF  A  PIASIST. 


(wit  ,  t.-;.""'- '""'"''  ':,;  link  .1,1  lady,  wi«,s.  i-omul 
fij' 10^  it'll^m.S'iplo  Cried  up  l,y  tho  .u,„  lu. 
Caci(iue  blood  in  her  vciiis. 


CHArTER  XXIX. 

a  very  strong  pro) ml  cj)  agam^t  ^^^^^^  ^'       .  ^ ,  y,,.  ,„tiroly 

"t-icv^rie.  «rVO-  .7«™  X*  «S::? '"olal^J 

rr  "'■  "SSIn'"     W-  lis  o,.bi,,,  .u;d  wfc 
b  ac'k   eyes  spaiklc   in  Z^'"-"  ,.     ,  •.    ,, earls,  descends 

Hhows  ^vhen  she  smiles  ^^vo  ro^^^  ^>\^;l^^t^  \^"^  marvellous 
i,,„,  the  Cacique  "7-":-^.i^^irof  ^.ulals,  always 

"i.::;;viMhat  indeMigabie  ^^<^^^:^^:^ 

territories  with  h  s  con<l"ermg  ^  Yf  J^,^;''^  te   -ontinent  of 

the  Xew  Uorld,  Avh  cU  ^Jf.  '^^     J  ^  possessing  either 

although  less  g^'^^^V^'"  .  ^  e  ed  n'  Ws  whole  character 
his  virtue  or  ^^'^^^''11^1^^^^^^^^  than  those  of 
some  features  more  «tnhi"g.  "^^J^  ^"  .  ^^  ,,f  H,e  Ke- 
las  n.odel-the  vnnriflHtcs  l^iere  "^iu  AVashington 
public  of  the  United  ^*;f,^*^;  ,  .V  [' ,^i,i,ii  bec-omes  the 
something  graver,  "f  ^-^^^^i^^^"^^  is  Cindnnatus 

cold  genius  of  tlio  An|a<>Saxon    au       J^.^^^  ^^^.^.^^  ^^^ 
and  Socratoa  ennobled  by  Lmisuanu^  , 


WASHINGTON  AND  BOLIVAR. 


445 


3  which  carries  her 

ions  and  channiuji. 

lady,  wliose  round 

up  by  the  sun,  has 


iiilics  -who  boast  of 
sacerdotal,  and  gov- 
lorc  exists  in  general 
Indians,  and  as  the 
Lonour  to  be  entirely 
o  betray  too  clearly 
,  save  their  pride  by 
.  take  a  Cacique  for 

t  this  good  little  old 
imp,  whose  two  large 
ted  orbits,  and  who 
vhite  pearls,  descends 
Ls  beai  a  marvellous 
i  of  scandals,  always 
a  whisper  the  foUow- 

who  was  hewing  out 
rd  and  creating  with 
Immense  cotitinent  ot 
t^natched  from  Spain, 
1,  not  possessing  either 
L  his  whole  character 
omantic  than  those  ot 
it  founder  of  tbe  Ke- 
cre  is  in  AVashington 
1,  which   becomes  the 

If. it.  is  C'incinnatus 

y  •  whilst  Bolivar  was 


a  man  of  the  Spanish-Amcricaji  race.  Ife  partakes  of  tlie 
Coiidottieri  of  the  middlo  ages  by  his  extravagant  (U'i)ro- 
dations,  and  of  the  liero  by  his  uitrcpid  valour,  his  ticiy 
energy,  and  the  sublime  sacrifices  which  lie  has Uiado  for 
lihcrty  and  his  country.  AVashington  will  never  descend 
from  th'-  serene  lieights  of  liistory!^  where  lie  dominates  hi 
all  the  majesty  of  the  great,  tlie  good,  and  the  true— the 
greatest  rejiresentatives  of  humanity  ;  whilst  liolivar  has 
been  already  the  ty])e  of  many  liomans.  If  IJolivar,  in 
the  midst  of  the  dissensions  which  alreadv  were  com- 
mencing to  paralyze  the  Hight  of  the  new  ]-epul>lics,  had 
provoked  bitter  liatreds,  he  had  also  inspired  the  <;reater 
part  of  the  nations  which  he  had  just  created  whh  an 
idolatrous  devotion.  From  the  Straits  of  ]\higellan  to 
Venezuela,  from  the  banks  of  the  Ainaz(  ■;  to  the'shores  of 
the  Pacilic,  iuid  on  all  the  peaks  of  the  Amies,  the  name  of 
liolivar  excited  transports  of  enthusiasm. 

During  owq  of  those  short  intervals  in  liis  life  of 
combats,  behvecn  two  battles,  he  stopped  at  Tacna.  The 
hero  was  teted:  the  citizens  and  magistrates  exhausted 
all  the  resources  which  the  intoxication  of  jiatriotic 
enthusiasm  could  suggest.  The  'Pearl  of  Tacna,'  and 
the  descendant  of  tlie"^  Cacique  Iluascar,  then  in  all  the 
brilliaiK'y  of  her  beauty  and"  youth,  attracted  his  notice. 
Urged  by  the  frenzy  of  enthusiasm,  of  grateful  patri- 
otism, her  father,  they  assert,  presented  her  to  the  'l.iber- 
ator.'  _  Ihit  the  restless  soul  of  the  hero  would  not  per- 
mit liim  any  repose  so  long  as  Ins  task  Avas  incomplete. 
There  still  iximained  the  half  of  the  continent  to  he  taki'u 
from  the  Spaniards,  lie  tore  himself  from  love,  and  threw 
himself  again  into  the  whirlwind  of  battles.  'J'he  cannon, 
glory,  and  ambition  soon  etliiced  the  memory  of  the  grand- 
(laugliter  of  the  Inca  Iluascar.  lie  never  saw  ]•<  r  again  ! 
The  poor  child!  a  moment  dazzled  by  the  aureole  whitli 
surrounded  the  hero,  thought  that  iu*^  ob(ying  her  father, 
she  Avas  also  yielding  to  the  transports  of'^hei-  own  heart; 
l)ut  when  alone  and  abandoned  she  became  a  mother,  she 
interrogated  her  heart  and  discovered  that  she  had  never 
loved.  She  Avas  then  eighteen  years  old.  Concentrating 
nil  the  treasures  of  tenderness  which  her  virgin  heart  in- 
closed, she  resolved  never  to  marry,  and  to  coiisecrate  iier- 
38 


' 


/! 


2^0T£S  OF  A  PIANIST. 
446 

.vhioh  tunc  lu^  only  -J-^t;  "    u^/^l^yu-hlo.!  to  a  dc- 
attontioii^  of  ^^T-T"' V  -1.  l+-\vith  «>  much  the  more  vio- 
B^re^vhieh  imK-humed  ^;,*^^' \   ,      ^.^^  ,!;  ,,ahi..l  mute.    Hhe 
leiice  a.  her  heart  up  to  that   .  "^  ^'j  m'    im.    impi-y.     But 
married.     Their  union  ^^  ^  f     j^  J'    -j    ,u  ..f  stornueame 
clouds,  at  first  ^-^''^;}';}^Z^^^    This  house  was  I'or 
to  darken  the  peaee  o    t'^^,  '^"^^    ,. .  \,,„i  the  dark  drama, 
a  lono-  time  enshrouded  m  "^'^.'^^  '\' ''"i^.^ails  unknown  to 
.vhieh  took  plaee  tl'^TC  is  st  1    m  it.   U    u  ^^^^^^^  .^^ 

almost  all.  ^^ ^^''^^.^f  *H^'^  "^'  ^1  V'owu  ;  although 
The  natural  daughter  «*  1^"^^^ ,,.  *  Jitul  as  lu-r  mother. 
l^,rdly  adole^ont,  ^  ^^^^X  his  wishes  I    So 

X loved  hei.    J"*,^  ^"*-/.'*-  ,  ,  .„,  i  „,  ..f,  p  u'^u'ian  was 

one  knows.     She  died  7^^;^^;,^^ 'j "  \\;'',i  nu  s  whieh  had 
calle.l  in,  and  as  ^^er  lior  cW^^^^^^^^^^^^  ^^^  ^^^  ^y^^^._ 

trouhled  the  peace  (.t    he  ^^ou^^^'M  '^^^     -,,,.     if  would 
pated,  remarks  upon  them    Vi^«i,^;,S;\^^uf  divided  be- 

her  only  a  favoured  rival.  indeserihahlc 

I  adniit,  that  sinee,  I  oanno   ^  f  ^^^J^^  J^,,  offers  me 

emotion,  look  ut  this  gocnl        le  o  d  ^^^^  .^^  a- 

a  eup  of  tea  with  all  ^^^  ;    ''^  !  .'^.7|,ce\i  siSlied  by  a  cin^^^^^ 
mother  whose  eonseicnee  has  nex  tr  been  j 

Tacna,  April  5. 

p,,.a  ;,,o  evening  .lU.^  «»;-  Stlli.^  ani'T  '^ 
ried  in  tins  eountry.     A\  e     a^e    '^^l^  .,  ^,,  .,,,a  the 

played  for  tliem  the  -ovt-  to  J  u^fuji^^  ^^^^^^  ^^^^^^ 

;^;^^eti^.s;^-.n\i:\"i-^-^^^ 

tl^f  ^.Pted  wiai  through  tl.nj^s,^-_    ^ 

A  eharmmg  evening  ^^^'^7^';^^iX^  '^lasnadieri,' 
man  amateur  and  a  ladx  ^^^^,^,;""£;;;'i  ,en  invited  to  eat 
and  that  of  'Rigok'tta      lo-daj  i  li-nc  «  ^^^  ^^^^ 

game  taken  on  the  ^^^^?>;\.    .^^'^^,^^;,'a  '  i  e  ii  st  chain  of 
indes,  whose  snowv  pomt  r^c>  bd^md  the  ^^^  .^^ 

mountains  of  the  Merra.     It  i>=  tittecu 


lator,horl)oanty, 
•acti-(l  to  Ir'I"  the 
>  yii'ldod  to  a  tlc- 
ic-h  the  more  vio- 
lainnl  mute.    Wie 
uiK'  iiapi'V.     But 
uU  of  storm,  caiue 
i\\\a  house  was  ibr 
I  the  chirk  drama, 
i.tails  unkuowu  to 
11(1  I  here  relate  it. 
irrowu ;    although 
if  as   her  mother. 
:o  his  wishes'?    iS'o 
s  no  physician  was 
clouds  which  had 
,M)eared  to  he  clissi- 
vantint?.     It  would 
uasear,  divided  he- 
1  her  instincts  as  a 
rmer,  and  poisonrnl 
litting  her  to  seo  m 

mt  an  indescrihahle 
oman  who  oilers  mo 
f  a  good  old  grand- 
,u  sullied  by  a  crime. 

Tacna,  April  5. 

rchant,  who  has  mar- 
1  nmsic,  and  I  have 
iUiam  Tell'  and  the 
;  time  that  they  had 
ioh,  nevertheless,  they 
wspapers. 

's  have  sung.  A  'jov- 
theduo'Masnadieri, 
ivc  heen  invited  to  eat 
'acora  is  a  peak  of  the 
liiid  the  first  cham  ot 
:oen   thousand  teet  m 


INDIANS  AND  ROBBERS. 


447 


height.  They  shoot  wild  gt'cse  tluMv,  which  arc  said  to  ho 
ex(|uisitc.  A  young  clerk  lci"t(lroni  Mr.  llavV,  the  mer- 
chant) for  Tacora  (two  days'  walk),  and  ha.s  brought  hack 
u  superb  supply. 

Tacna,  Aj)!-!!  G,  180G. 

Last  evening;  second  concert  at  Tacna.  Audience  ])as- 
sahlc.  My  friend,  Mr.  H.,  on.reaching  home,  found  tlie  door 
of  his  stable  ojien,  and  his  horse,  a  superb  animal,  had  dis- 
appeared. This  morning  lie  lias  called  in  some  Indians  of 
l5olivia  for  the  purpose  of  pursuing  the  rol)her,  and  taking 
from  him  liis  horse.  A  few  hours  later  on  tliev  brouojlt 
the  liorse  to  him.  He  was  found  covered  with  'foam  and 
sweat,  and  bearing  all  the  traces  of  a  long  race.  It  is  pro- 
bable that  some  Indian  wlio  had  to  make\a  sudden  Journey 
last  iiiglit  had  taken  this  commodious  means  of  boiTowiiif 
the  horse  of  11 .  ° 

These   Indiana   which   II- liad   immediately  called 

upon,  have  an  admirable  instuict  in  capturing  miirauders 
and  finding  stolen  horses  or  catik-.  The  tricks  emploved 
by  the  roldn-rs  for  the  pur])osc  of  destroying  their  tracks 
are  worthy  those  of  the  red  skin.  The  print  of  the  foot 
betraying  the  road  taken  by  the  animal,  they  put  on  him 
imitation  hoofs;  but  the  Indians  do  not  let  themselves  be 
taken  in,  they  recognize  l)y  the  greater  or  less  depth  of 
the  hoof  if  it  is  real  or  not.  Sometimes  they  [mt  on  a 
sheq)  the  lioots  of  a  horse  or  cow,  but  they  make  nothing 
by  it,  the  Indian  has  other  signs  by  whicli  he  recognizes 
the  animal. 

Good  Friday. 

The  Lamentations  are  sung  false  by  an  old  Ppanish  jji-iest. 
The  accompaniment  consists  of  a  violin  and  violoncello. 
I  mention  the  latter  as  a  memorandum  seeing  tliat  it  liad 
only  one  note.  It  is  an  old  Indian  who  ]ilays  it,  and  I 
forbear  saying  what  he  did.  While  the"  i)riest  was 
chanting  the  Lamentations,  lie  was  frolicking,  making 
sometimes  trills,  sometimes  arjieggios,  sometimes  chromatic 
scales,  ascending,  descending, — he  was  frolicking,  1  say, 
agreeably  on  the  treble  striiig,  precipitating  himself  from 
its  sharp  summit  into  the  depths  of  the  fourth  string  where 
he  rested  on  a  treinclo,  tlu'U  came  a  wpiili  whicli  esca])ed 
altogether  upward,  tlie  whole  of  this  false,  out  of  tune, 


NOTES  OF  A  r/.l.V/^- 
!Ln...  .vUW  an,  ..anl  to  tl.  V.y  ..  ....  the 

l''-^StS;a,t.attK...^^^^^^^ 
.uc-h  a  way  that  U  ^--  ^    --^,^  ^^,,,,1  ,„a   was  takup 
him.     AVhcu  ho  1^';:^^^  ^^;^^  ,  ;\,,a   travolU'-l  insensibly 
hrcath  again    the  ^  ;'    '     ,    ^^  „v  ,,  „.,to,  r.tunu.l  a-ain 
upward.  c,r(lo^-oii.UHl  OH -l<mun  ^  ^^^^^     i„vanal.ly  m 

to  the  original  ^ey,  ^^   ^     >  •>\\'=  ^^.,^i, .   then  the  tatla-r 

G,  tolhnvcd  by  a  «    ;*-,^    .^J^;.  ,],^  violin  n-..oinim..uva. 

bogan  again,  and  ^^'^  ^^'^^^^^^^^^^^        ,,,j,  arUlr,hvm^  m  Ibo 

Tho  ottcH-t  wa.  ^^'-""5?^',   .      \*iie  ettVH-t  of  a  sbowc-bath 

r-^r^'JKtrXl^ohdei'ohdeavl 

overv  tunc  that  u  iciumv. 

^'''  •>  Txcsx,  April  n. 

Imrn  all  tho  ports.    I  ^^^^^  of  gwing  a 

to  .m  south  to  hiuique,  %U>uo  I  \w 

^,^ert.     What  am  I  ^  do^  ^^X^!^  h^l^^  -^^^^^^ 
Bolivia  is  opened  ^^t  ^^;^^^  f  le  of  .he  other  republics 
the  continent,  wedged  }'  |^'^       .^  ;.^,,,,  behind  the  nnowy 
who  serve  her  tor  ^^''''^'}^^  T^'T^^  oon- 

:!;nnits  of  the  Andes  she  d.he.h.;-;-^  atmosphere  of 

tinues  to  live  in  the  ""^¥,^;.  '  ^  and  c  ime..  [have  the 
revolutions,  S"^^"^«^'-TS  el^-^a'  of  liohvia,  but  it  is 
crveatest  desire  to  visit  ^    /iH^^;  ^^  ^^^  -     ,,,^y  13 

three  haiidroO  •  nles  m  he  "i;"^*;;.^.,,^^,.  to  cross  lirst 
nl^de  on  tho  )>aek,.  of  r;^;^JVvS^^'^  of  desert,  to 
a  harrier  01  n.oM.;   "^f' ^^^^T^^^^^f  snows,  and  the  regions 

(he  hrst  declivities  f^^'^aunt\n^  of  blood.  The 
are  a  dimness,  "<^"^««;.^"  f  \'^i  heat  .x-casTon  besides  chaps 
r  is  lip;' iS  Idtir^^-le  sHn  in  general,  which 


I 
I 


BOLIVIA. 


449 


ov  m 


Avhu'h  tlie 


,ui  of  til'.'  key  in 
...ssibUi  to  fellow 

.,,,,1  was  taking 
,xv\\i'd  inscnriibly 
e,  iH'tunu'tl  ajrain 
)r(l,  invariably  in 
;  then  the  fatlicr 
ilin  n'connniMU'i'il. 
vide,  boing  in  the 

of  a  sViowor-bath 
I  dear'. 

Tacs\,  April !). 
paraiso  change's  all 
,0  Spaniards' bt'ing 
as  Gniiyacinil  and 
itbo'-;  iinprndonro, 
link^  ..M>f  giving  a 

ill  1 1." ;        .     ,. 

cd  in  thf  interior  ot 

Die  other  repnbhcs 

behind  the  nnowy 

fc;i>aniards,  and  eon- 

,vmul  atniosplicre  ot 

I  V  imM.    r.  have  the 

f  UolLvia,  hnt  it  is 

and  the  journey  is 

icessarv  to  cross  lirst 

t  extent  of  desert,  to 

nvs,  and  the  regions 

rt  at  fifteen  thousand 

La  V-M,  which  has  at 

feet. 

ndes  arc  besides  ex- 
is  fclt  particularly  on 
The  tii-st  symptmns 
niting  of  hlood.  The 
u-casion  besides  chaps 
kin  in  general,  which 


cracks,  sAvells,  and  degenerates  into  ulcerations.  The 
perspective  on  this  side  has  nothing  attractive  in  it,  l>ut 
on  tlie  other  it  presents  a  inagniHceii't  occasion  to  go  to  La 
Paz.  AVitliout  reckoning  the  season,  which  is  magniliccnt, 
tlie  rains  having  ceased  and  tlie  storms  of  the  Andes  being 
over,  a  caravan  of  Frenc-h  travellers  start  to-morrow  on 
the  way  to  (,'ochabandm  and  stoj)  on  the  road  at  La  Paz. 
It  is  t'oniposed  of  French  engineers,  a  number  of  merchants, 
and  a  French  baron  also,  wlio  takes  with  him  the  whole 
efpiipage  for  a  campaign,  tents,  wagons,  provisions,  further 
an  Indian  servant  for  cook,  mules,'arms,  and  photographic 
ai)l)aratus.  The  safety  which  foreigners  enjoy  is  relative. 
]i<)livia  commits  with  imi)unity  tlie  most  flagrant  crimes 
against  the  laws  of  nations  behind  these  bastions  eighteen 
thousand  feet  in  heiglit,  these  giddy  defiles,  thesr'peaks 
v.here  the  eagle  soars  or  the  vicuna  pastures.  Her  people, 
strong  and  warlike  by  nature,  are  hardened  by  forty  years 
of  bloody  and  desperate  strife.  Legislation,  laws,  arts,  have 
for  a  long  time  disappeared  before  the  sword,  the  symbol 
everywhere  and  here  partic;ularly  of  brutal  force,  barbarism, 
spoliations,  assassinations,  proscri])ti()ns,  military  execu- 
tions, and  all  the  excesses  to  which  a  ferocious  and  licen- 
tious soldier  of  fortune  can  give  himself  who  arrives  at 
supreme  power  sustained  by  a  victorious  and  unbridled 
soldiery.  This  is  the  condition  of  this  unhappy  country 
whose  territory  is  double  that  of  Franco,  whose  mineral 
and  vegetable  i-iches  are  inexhaustible,  and  which  under  a 
good  government  would  take  the  first  rank  among  the 
strongest  and  most  favoured  of  the  globe. 

Tj  jna,  April  21. 

One  of  my  friends  having  received  a  letter  from  one  of 
his  correspondents  at  Valparaiso,  in  which  the  desire  of 
hearing  me  is  expressed  more  strongly  than  ever,  T  d 
myself  again  eml)arrassed.  On  the  "other  side  they  ve 
written  to  me  from  Afoquehua  (interior  of  IVru)  in \  ng 
1110  to  go  there  to  give  a  concert.  There  is  a  piano  hvU  ng- 
ing  to  a  S[ianianl,  who  on  account  of  my  decorations  tiers 
ine  hospitality  and  his  piano  for  my  concerts  ;  but  the  road 
is  long.  There  are  no  dangers,  but  much  fatiir'i.'.  The 
Indians  here  are  submissive,  tinud,  mild,  and  honct       Thev 

38* 


450 


NOTES  OF  A  PIANIST. 


i- 


ration.  Ibc  ^^''^^^^^^^  ^^,,ivc  here  every  day,  la<len 
race.  Caravans  ot  J^"'^*"  ,^',  .  „  .i.i.„c  or  four  unamned, 
with  in-ots  ot\Bdver  esc.>rte(      y  tlncx^  J  i  ^^^._ 

half-naked  Indians.  In  ^l^c  ;'"'>  ^^^^^^^times  a  inule  is 
come  broken  in  the  monnta  s  ml  ^"  t^";«^^^^_  u,  ;, 
nured  and  disappears  ^  -^^^  ^  ^/^.^n,  the  sanu. 

left  on  the  ^7^\,  ^" ,  '  "'  -1  eve  the  ^^'^'''^^^''^  happened, 
Indians  pass  by  the  place  y*/;^  !-;"  .  ^.-e  thousand  or 
„,a  earr^otfthe  oad  (f  "Jf^  "'^^^^^^^^^i"  -ks  n^eddled  M'ith, 
thirty  thousand  dollars)  ^^^^^  ,^7°^',^y,'^other  on  the  road, 
although  caravans  every  *!«>/«'  ";^  thiThonesty  is  that  the 
^Vhat  is  more  lingular  ^l\'-^'^f;^\^J'\'',4X^^     thousand 

f^^S^s^s:::^^^^^^  worti^nothmg,  t^t 
-^r;.::;t^Ki^eiongh,g^ 

it  by  a  tailway  eighteen  ""l^^,^! ^'^g\^  ;\;i\ole  commerce  of 
its  geographical  position.  ^  ™^''t^.J';\^.^^^  through  Tacna. 
Bolivia,  h..  impuits  and  ^^^P^^^^^^^^^^^i'''^^^  files^of  laden 
Thus  the  nuileteers  the  -a  avan^^^  ^^  ^.^^^^antly 
xnules  which  coine  tioin  oi  ait  ^mn^  ^^^^^  ^^_^^.^y 

encumber  the  V^^  ^1^,,-^  ^,  ^^  as  my  do<,r 
been  more  than  halt  an  ^"  "/ '"  ^  ,,„ ^.,,^  olt'.     A  caravan  ot 
^vhich  nevertheless  was  «"  y.  fj^>  1^?'^^^'  ^"\,  other,  became 

loaded  mules  kickm.g,  V'^'^'^'lf.''^'^^^^^^^^^  would 

entangled  and  tbrmed  a  conj^)act  no^^^^^^^^  ^^^^^^^  .^^ 

neither  .o  forward  '-;;^^^;^  ^^  thSscene  is  indescril>- 
this  narrow  street,     i  lie  conlUbion|^  ^^^^^  ^^  ^^^^.^  ^^^^^^^^ 

able.  The  muleteers  .u  ...,  ^^^^  ^^^^^  ^^^ .  ^hc 
r:^irr  :o!^d  tl^t^'  ^^-'  tlie  men-handise  was 
^tHid^i'  ^Ml  this  --^I^^X^tsrSellent  lihe- 

.a;Sonl^S^>{^e^^^ 


(ncfirly  four  luin- 
Uifuity  have  boon 
in'tho  projoiK'C  ot 
I  terror  and  adiui- 
intinilely  superior 
every  day,  laden 
or  four  unr.rnied, 
on,  the   roads  he- 
uietimes  a  nude  is 
the  mud.     He  is 
y  season,  the  same 
xceident  happened, 
•y-five  thousand  or 
'has  meddled  with, 
1  other  on  the  road, 
honesty  is  that  the 
k-enty-tivc  thousand 
if  they  can,  a  strap, 
worth  nothing,  that 

ona  (connected  with 
;es  its  importance  to 
•  whole  commerce  ot 
tiiulc  through  Tacna. 
'  Ions  files  oi  laden 
o  La'Paz,  constantly 
ena.     I  have  to-day 
lo-  as  far  as  my  door, 
>s  otf.     A  caravan  ot 
it  each  other,  became 
ii<r  mass  which  would 
,fi*ied  as  tiicy  were  m 
:his  scene  is  indeserib- 
-ows  to  their  saints, 
I,  kicked,  reared  ;  tlie 
the  merchandise  was 
i-rible  noise, 
le  most  excellent  h  bo- 
ms Senor  General  Mel- 
to,  a  sort  of  tiger  with 
ecomes  ferocious,     lie 


SIXGULAR  MARRIAGE  CUSTOMS. 


451 


tlicn  kills  everybody  around  liim.  Tie  lias  assassinated 
with  liis  own  hand 'the  ex-presidoiit,  wliose  place  he  took. 
He  caused  to  be  shot  for  pastime,  by  some  soldiers  sent  tor 
him  by  his  corporals  on  duty,  a  •young  girl,  almost  at  her 
own  home,  whose  beauty  he  remarked  in  j.assing  before 
her  window.  In  the  street  he  cut  otf  the  ears  of  iTis  adju- 
tant with  his  sabre,  cleaved  the  shoulder  of  bis  aid-de- 
camp with  one  blow  of  an  axe,  burns,  sacks,  and  gluts  him- 
self like  a  ferocious  ])east  in  the  midst  of  all  the  excesses  to 
Avhich  his  savage  and  sanguinary  appetites  drive  him. 
Jjast  week,  one  of  his  adjutants  having  observed  to  him, 
that  it  would  be  better  if  he  abstained  from  being  present  in 
the  condition  in  which  he  was,  at  a  reli«rious  procession  (ho 
was  drunk),  he  placed  his  revolver  on  liis  chest  and  killed 
him  at  once. 

Some  of  the  customs  of  Tacna. 

The  marriages  of  the  civilized  Indians  of  Bolivia  are  ex- 
tremely curious.  The  future  husband  having  chosen  liis 
godfaHier,  ordinarily  a  white  gentleman,  goesVith  him  to 
the  house  of  the  '  novia'  (bride).  The  "godfather  stipu- 
lates with  the  fatlier  or  mother  (sometimes  with  the  god- 
mother w-hidi  the  'novia'  has  chosen)  on  tJie  conditions  of 
the  marriage.  Tho.-'e  generally  arc  pieces  of  pocket-money 
or  woollen  stutfs,  or  ;i  sheeji,  to  be  given  to  the  bride's 
parents.  Then  they  send  to  the  neighbouring  village  of  the 
husband  and  the  bride  to  get,  for  the  first,  red  pantaloons,  a 
red  coat,  a  three-cornered  hat  with  feathers,  and  shoes. 
For  the  bride,  shoes,  a  dress  of  woollen,  or  of  silk  when  she 
is  rich.  These  costumes  are  the  same  for  all,  they  are  lent 
for  the  ceremony,  and  are  faithfully  sent  Iwck  again  the 
next  day  to  the  furnisher  in  town.  Tliere  is  nothing  so 
pitiable  as  the  grimaces  of  these  poor  husbands  and  wfves, 
who  have  never  before  put  on  shoes ;  they  are  in  torture 
and  stumble  at  every  stej),  their  clothes  are  too  large  or  too 
small,  and  they  present  the  most  grotesque  appearance  in 
the  world. 

After  the  benediction  at  the  church,  they  are  conducted 
into  a  species  of  little  grove  made  of  small  branches  and 
]>alms,  where  they  are  made  to  sit  opposite  each  other. 
Exposed  to  the  remarks  of  the  wedding  guests  by  an  open- 
ing like  a  window^,  they  must  remain  immovable,  looking 


ti 

I 
I 


452 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAMS: 


i 


I 


at  cac-h  other  without  snoakiiig  for  many  hours.  The 
Lnu.«trt  (hu'inff  tliis  tiiuo  <h-ink, danoc,  and  oat.  ihvv  coinoa 
the  c-eromony  of  oondncting  tlicm  to  the  nuptial  cabin, 
whieh  is  accompanied  with  very  singular  customs  undprac- 

^7)i*dinarily  the  godfather  or  godmother  sees  in  the  town,  at 
the  expiration  of  a  few  days,  the  newly-married  one's,  wljo 
come  to  comv.lain  of  some  trouble  which  has  taken  l>ln<;«  i" 
the  household.     These  complaints  are  commonly  that  tlie 
bride  is  not  willing  to  work,  or  that  th<!  husband  ai.l|ropri- 
atesto  himself  all  the  pieces  of  meat  or  of  choupe .    (the 
national  soup).     The  godfather  or  godmother  is  miuested 
to  administer  some  blows  with  a  leather  strap  to  the  delin- 
quent, and  the  couple  return  to  their  village    Tt  also  otten 
happens  that  the  woman  presents  herselt,  all  m  teai>,  to 
the  1  .riest.     "  I'adre,  m v  husband  does  not  love  me,  he  has 
not  yet  whipped  me."     The  priest  then  causes  the  husband 
to  be  called,  mid  after  having  reproached  him  with  his  m- 
ditiercnce,  places  in  his  hands  a  whip  and  ordei>  him  to 
administer  correction  to  his  better  halt,  who,  receiving  it 
with  a  relish,  thanks  the  priest,  and  goes  away  certain  tliat 
her  husband  loves  her.     The  humi  ity  otthese  poor  Indi- 
ans, their  submission,  their  fear  of  the  whites,  speaks  suth- 
cieiitly  of  wliat  they  have  had  to  sutler  trom  the  coiKiuest 

up  to  our  days.  ,  ,     ,    ,,         .•     vi,^ 

At  every  revolution  they  are  treated  by  both  parties  like 
beasts  of  burden;  they  arc  torn  from  their  families,  and 
forced  to  carry  enormous  burdens  for  the  distance  ot  many 
hundreds  of  miles.     Ataiiy  perish  from  blcws  and  fatigue. 

AVhen  the  woman  is  about  to  be  confined,  the  man  im- 
mediately goes  to  bed,  and  feigns  all  the  pams  of  parturi- 
W  He  groans,  ho  twi.ts,  we^^s,  and  the  most  curious 
part  of  it  is,  that  he  persuades  himself  that  he  is  suttenng 
n  the  same  way  as'his  wife.  He  divides  with  her  he 
cares  which  arc  lavished  upon  her,  drmks  broth  koeps  Ins 
bed,  and  is  di(jted  during  the  convalescence  of  his  betttr- 

^'"l  have  visited  the  market.  It  is  a  parallelogram,  open  at 
the  two  extremities,  by  which  you  can  enter  from  tlie  a<l- 
iacciit  streets.  On  the  two  sides  arc  lateral  alleys,  covered 
like  a  cloister,  under  which  a  crowd  ot  ludiaua  are  squat- 


i 


J 


.-.a;<.  ,^.'.ii  '-~,-■rf«WR^»^■.  ^^-'"^ 


ri:/:rARL\G  for  eastkr  svsday. 


468 


iy  hours.  The 
It.  Tlu'P  coint's 
!  nuptial  cabui, 
istoiurt  undpmc- 

OH  in  the  town,  at 
iri'ietl  ones,  wlio 
ifl  taken  place  in 
rnnonly  that  the 
ushand  ai>[>ropri- 
f  '  choupe !'  (the 
ither  irt  reipiested 
trap  to  the  delin- 
iro.    It  also  often 
',  all  in  tears,  to 
t  love  nie,  he  has 
uses  the  husband 
him  with  his  hi- 
id  ordei>  him  to 
who,  reeeiving  it 
away  eortidn  that 
f  these  poor  Indi- 
lites,  speaks  suffi- 
Vom  the  con(iue9t 

r  both  parties  like 
beir  families,  and 

distance  of  many 
lews  and  fatigue, 
ined,  the  man  iin- 
e  pains  of  parturi- 

the  most  curious 
liat  he  is  suifering 
ides  with  her  the 
:8  broth,  keeps  his 
snee  of  his  better- 

allclogram,  open  at 
inter  from  the  ad- 
!i-.il  alleys,  covered 
Indiana  are  squat- 


ting, selling  meat,  fruit,  etc.  The  fruit,  particularly  the 
grajics,  is  plicnonicnal.  A  priest  walked  slowly  through 
the  nndst  ol"  the  mercliants  and  made  tliem  k\ss  a  little 
image  of  the  IJlessed  Virnin,  j-resenting  to  tliem  a  plate  on 
winch  they  placed  a  small  piece  of  money.  This  operation 
takes  place  every  morning,  and  cannot  liiil  to  be  very  pro- 
ductive to  the  treasury  of  the  church. 

\'isitcd  the  church  at  the  ujiper  part  of  the  town  to-dav, 
Holy  Saturday.  They  are  preparing  the  church  for  to- 
morrow,  Kaster  Sunday  ;  three  or  four  devotees,  sitting  on 
some_  little  footstools  surrounded  by  their  children,  are 
chatting  before  the  altar.  Home  Indian  servants  are  clean- 
ing the  lamps  which  are  to  ornament  the  altar.  The  whole 
neighbourhood  has  been  placed  in  reipiisition,  and  I  give 
up  describing  the  coup  irulL  At  the  first  glance  this  j.ro- 
fusion  of  little  mirrors,  of  children's  dolls  dressed  in  little 
skirts,  like  balloons  swinging  between  each  nurror,  the 
little  gilt  jiaper  Hagswhicli  at  a  distance  produce  the  ett'ect 
of  penny  trum[)ets;  the  jiorcelain  cups,  the  vases  of  artificial 
flowers,  the  ehandeliei-s,  the  lamiis  idaced  alongside  of  each 
other,  ()n  eacli  ste])  of  the  altar,  that  heterogeneous  crowd 
of  objects  which  shine  in  an  equivocal  manner,  all  this  re- 
calls without  mistake  those  peddler's  booths  where  for  a 
penny  one  might  win  at  every  trial. 

There  is  an  instrument  in  vogue  among  the  Indians  of 
which  I  must  speak.  It  is  a  flute  made  of  reed,  and  is 
played  like  a  clarionet,  it  is  called  'tristos,'  and  as  it  would 
seem  to  indicate  has  a  very  sad  sound  of  strange  rhythm,  a 
funereal  and  lugul)rious  tone.  Tradition  states  that  the 
first 'tristos' was  made  and  the  instrument  invented  by  a 
friar,  who  was  living  among  the  Indians;  he  lost  his  'gue- 
rida,'  and  made  one  of  these  instruments  out  of  the  tibia 
of  his  well-beloved. 

La  Serena  (Ciuli),  January  3,  1S87. 

At  my  last  concert  at  Valjiaraiso,  tlie  municipal  council 
presented  me  with  a  golden  crown  and  a  gold  medal,  witli 
an  inscription.  I  have  had  a  great  deal  of  success  at  my 
two  concerts  here.  To-morrow  I  am  going  to  Copiapo  on 
the  coast. 


454 


yoTKS  OF  A  /v.i.v/.sr. 


i\ 


11 


|i 


i 

i 


CopiAPO,  February  12. 

I   luia  n..ti.v.l  at  th.'  \''     '    V  ,;t,,.o„-,..(.tuivthat  ho 
^vaso,uM.t-thos.s<»cml  Ym-kKV     i^^^  .j,^  ^^.^^^  ^^^  ,,,^ 

F,vn.h  cH.Msnl  s.     ^^V    la         U  hick  la-cvontcl  hhn 
oM-hurr,  hut   hiHhaa  l^^^f  '    ''';,,;  th.rihymhuo<l  to 

,,,k..shift..     Day  ';:^'^,  ;f  •'  «t>uUlHua.U.nly  with  a 
„u'  that  Mr.  II—— ^^art  ^iJ^'r         rrj     ,i,,,.t,„.  ...aiod  ui  at 

„„,,,aul  not  guvh  Mwau      \'    ;  V^'^f^^^^rs,  clunng  ^vhic•h 

^not^.^r'^  ''i^::'  ;;:!;.    a   ^^>n.u.  h.t;iUgc;na.  au.l  a 
1.,  was  .lyujg.         J,  Ho  ,m«.ioi    acss,  at  least  ui  api-ar- 

ance,  and  wo  wa.to.l  *<>>7,  //v  %  o'to        He  du.l  to-(hiy  at 
•viur,  which  was  inonu'ntanl}  ^^^''^  ,  ^„|y  ,„,,,le 

a.  in  Kuroius  and  the  h  [';;  l,  T^  .  roUot,  tV<nn  whcnoo  wo 
and  niysolf  t..  oomo  to  the  ^^  '/;7^!;,  .^..^ ory.  Two  hour« 
^vill  a'ooo.n|>anv  the  oori.sc  |  J^^^.^^^  ;\uH-omi.osod,  a.xl 
after  his  (  oat\v  ,the  l'"  ^>  ^;^\''' ;,"  1,.  that  the  hotel 
spreading     ts  miasm   m  h mh   a     > a.  ^^^^^^^^.^     .,^  ^^,, 

i^ev<^r.M\sf^^^^^^^^,^  ,irc.us  whire  000k- 

^%^.  evciung,  at  r^f^:^^::!'-^Z  r  £ 
at  the  Ihitel  Marcadet      I  w.v^  iK^er  1        ^^  ^^^^^  ^^.^ 

niout  of  a  foreigner,  ^^y"Vj  t'^^  ^  l"^  ^  .^^1^^,,^   ,,.ifi,    g,ief. 

family,   without     ;".^-";^.,,  "A  i^.^  ,  .  Vn  this  Boli<larity  of 
Theiv  is^also  something    0}  attutu^  ^^^^  ^^^^^ 

compatriots  who  oonie  t"fe'^^;^^\J^j,,.,.,,,  known,  hut  who 
to  him  whcmi  they  1^^^'^' T-^f^  J;,^-  \ho  >•  mother-country, 
boru  like  themselves  .^^^  /  "^  ,^"  !  ^.a  .v  ith  after  death, 
rt.,,  uave  oome  ^^  ^Iji;^";^,  f  ;^    ,  ^  dshlrv  1  have  learned, 
J^SJZ  ^eM^aLral  Mainuis  de  — ,  and, 


THE  sAii  iiruun. 


4:)') 


.ro,  February  12. 

n,  shiiliby  tnan, 
ijccti-.iv  thiit  lio 
Liiu'nca  so  oi'tcn 
•itU  li'mi  at  tlio 

II".      111!   W!IS   iiu 

j.ri'vcnti'd  liiin 
roby  iv(lu(0<l  to 
nimo  to  iufonn 
Hiuldnily  with  a 
•tor,  lallod  in  at 
Wo  ri'licvt'd  oin' 
rs,  (lurinj;  wliicli 
ntuHigonci'  aii<l  a 
t  least  in  aiiiK'ar- 
i  (lav  liis  (U-livi-r- 
He  (Vu'il  to-day  at 
■re  arc  only  made 
'ing  kei.t  as  Ion*; 
ted  all  the  French 
t,  iVomwhenoe -sve 
ti'ry.     Two  hours 
decomposed,  and 
-r   that   the   hotel 
'ortunately  in  the 
circus  where  cock- 
L   the   poor  corpse 

K'h  were  assendded 
esent  at  the  inter- 
lis  country  and  his 
roken   with    grief. 
11  this  solidarity  of 
ler  the  last  duties 
r  known,  hut  who 
■ii-  mother-country, 
ith  after  death. 
,rv  1  have  learned, 
axiniii  de ?  wu, 


with  his  vonngi  i'  Itrofher,  occupied  in  fh(>  elevated  sjihcrc 
of  thi'  military  hicrarcliy  a  distiiigiiislicd  nmk  in  the 
French  ariiiv.  Mashfuhiess,  vexation,  disiip|ioiiilinent 
caused  liy  failure  in  life,  made  him  rlirow  the  handle  after 
the  hall  lut,  and  thi'  [loor  ril—  - -,  an  oM  scliolnr  of  the 
I'olytechniquc  School,  cuphiin  of  engineers,  led  a  misi'rahie 
existence,  without   hope,  without    any    means  of  escnpe, 


ex<H'pt  ill  suicide,  of  whica  la-  often  -poke  with  the  suin/ 
fmiif  ol'  a  determiiu'd  man.  He  owed  one  yeur'H  hoarding 
to  the  keeper  of  the  hotel,  nn  hoiu'st  Frenchman,  who  di(l 


not  Vent  (ire,  knowing  his  |ioverty,  to  put  him  in  mind  of 
his  (1  '  .ook  care  of  him  through  charity. 

Til  .•tfiii  was  pliiccd  in  a  lliit  heurse,  drawn  hy  a  horse, 
ntid  at  midnight  we  ari'  on  the  road  to  the  cemetery.  Thi' 
driver  of  the  hearse,  a  jteon  with  a  poncho  on,  walks  along- 
side of  the  horse,  the  poor  heast  stiimltling  at  every  step. 
Th((  roads  are  had,  and  hilly.  ITe  fiills  down.  Wo  raise 
him  u[K  A  little  further  on,  one  of  the  straps  hrcaks. 
We  stop  for  the  purpose  of  arranging  it.  Tiie  harness  is 
tied  together  with  twine.  We  were  so  foolish  as  to  ])ay 
the  coachman  in  advance  for  liis  journey,  and  this  is  the 
Avay  we  are  servcil  for  it.  AVe  are  sto])ped  again.  This 
time  it  is  the  halter  which  has  hroketi.  The  peon  informs 
us  that  the  horse  will  not  he  ahle  to  go  further.  While  he 
is  })retciidiiig  to  sweat  hlood  and  water  (to  make  strenuous 
oxertioiis)  to  arrange  the  harness,  I  examine  this  jieon.  lie 
is  a  tall,  hrony.cd,  roguish  fellow,  clad  jiroudly  in  a  reddish 
poncho,  to  which  the  hour,  tlu'  scene,  the  hearse,  tlu'  light  of 
the  moon  give  u  liintastic  aspect.  The  French  consul  has 
employed  him.  lie  is  a  good  workman,  hut  lu'  cannot  con- 
tent himself  to  stop  in  the  workshop.  'vDo  you  see,"  said 
he,  with  a  pleasant  seriousness  and  an  innocent  impudence, 

"•  I  have  been  one  of  the  executioners  of  R ,  and  I  have 

not  killed  a  few  in  my  life  before  undertaking  to  bury 
tliem.  I  have  done  it,  and,  frankly,  I  can  only  live  with 
thedead." 

The  harness  is  too  old  and  the  horse  too  fatigued.  The 
eoachman  makes  us  wait,  and  the  delays  are  so  numerous 
that  a  good  old  French  Jiasque  proposes  (after  having  eased 
his  conscience  by  addressing  in  French  some  /a/(«  words 
to  the  coachman,  who  does  not  understand  one  word  of 


SOTES  OF  A  riASlST. 


I) 

i'i 


with  liirt  cDUiiuiny.     it   i^  a  nignmiaic. 
to-iiight. 


ClIArTER   XXX. 

TiiP  dofiort  of  Atacania  oxtoiulH  from  the  const  of  Chili 

0  J/i  J^li  rfho  tromc  to  Bolivia,  a  distaiu-.  of  ht  y  k-ajruos. 

1  i  t   ho;ncmnl«h.sof  Ata.atna  th,^t  the  vu'host  h.Wo 

•  1  V-.f    n.ili  is  found— '  a  Uiu'iui   Kspiranza.      It  VNas 

,K.,„.ly  .eventyfivo  m.l hon-  o    l™.;-    J  ^Xl 'o.  tan,--, 
'""1" *;r,Z;£  ™h       ...l     -^  '»<-  .■kl,c,.i„oe.fr,m. 

IcilometiT.  acroHS  the  deser  .     1  hesitata      u  ^^^^ 

an  excellent  carnaK'C  and  two  1'or.c,'  «^^^  ot  JN 

i'    n  .k  in  the  ?veninff.    The  weather  was  magniheent.    La 


5Siiee?.e'?»«*«H«e-' 


\h('  cart  to  tlio 
Uiil  tlu'iv  we  iiiv 
•  tlu!  iiilial»itaiitrt 
•(lint'  out  t>ti  tlio 
h  hart  (Ml  WW  tlio 

H-    (lialU'l     Ol'    till! 

I,  and  the  cUKtoin 

A  totii'riiiu;  <»l(l 

■nrt  thi'  (hx)!',  and, 

door  and  iTUiainrt 

1  tthull  not  t*lt'i'i> 


the  const  of  Chili 
CO  of  fifty  IcajrucH. 
the  richest  silver 
s\H'ranza.'     It  was 
d  has  yielded  very 
It  now  yields  an- 
TiiilUons  of  francs, 
riches,  since  from 
the  galleries  it  can 
er,  a  French  engi- 
i  during  my  short 
to  pass  some  days 
.iapo  is  a  liundnd 
ed  ;  but  he  sent  lue 
Olio  of  ■which  was 
0  led  the  one  in  the 
ys  upon  the  route, 
left  Copiapo  at  six 
ras  magiiitit'ent.    l^a 
revolver  (in  case  of 
!  diseovered  that  the 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


k 


s 


& 
%' 


^:/- 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


HIM  IM 

KS  1^    1 2.2 
^   1^    12.0 


1.8 


U    IIIIII.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


L1>^ 


#> 


V 


^> 


V 


^\ 


^<b 


V 


<v 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


ru^ 


6^ 


w... 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


-  iiiir»  mmmtMimmmm 


THE  DESERT  OF  ATACA.UA. 


457 
13c- 


pistol  had  been  stolon  from  him  thc^  evening  before. 
8i(h's,  one  is  rarely  attacked. 

llanlly  are  we  ont  of  Copiajio  than  we  find  onrselvcH 
already  ni  that  oalearoous  dust,  wiruh  ha.s  the  colour  of 
sand,  and  which  is  so  fatiguing  to  the  eyes,  ^\'e  enter  inty 
a  gorge.  AVhat  horrible  aridity!  Xot  a  blade  of  grass. 
Tlie  niountains  seem  to  bar  the  ])assage  to  ns  at  every 
moment,  so  near  do  they  approach  each  other;  but  we 
wind  around  them.  The  groun<l  becomes  tlat,  and  in  a 
small  plain  we  perceive  some  little  hovels  of  dried  mud 
and  their  pachlocks,  surrounded  with  walls  also  of  dried 
mud — the  masonry  work  of  which,  made  of  great  scpjare 
blocks,  recalling  that  of  the  Assyrians,  gives  vaguely  rise 
to  thoughts  of  Biblical  ruins,  \o  which  the  gray,  Iturnt 
country  and  the  red  rays  of  the  sun  add  the  aspect  of  a 
Biblical  land.  There  is  a  well  here,  Avliich  exjilains  the 
few  united  hovels  which  arc  called  '  J'ueblo  de  Indios'  (In- 
dian village).  No  industry,  no  labour;  we  see  now  and 
then  a  eluld,  wlio  looks  at  us  passing  with  an  astonished 
air.  The  lather  and  mother,  lying  lazily  in  front  of  the 
cabin,  halt  naked,  are  sleeping  or  forgetting  tlitmselves  in 
the  f'lr  nicntf,  the  former  of  them  smoking  a  cigarette. 
As  for  the  rest,  the  earclessness  of  these  people  is  favoured 
by  the  climate.  It  never  rains ;  it  is  never  cold.  AVhen 
there  is  nothing  more  to  buy  cigarettes  with,  the  father 
makes  a  great  effort  and  goes  to  work,  eitlier  in  the  town 
or  at  the  mine,  and,  when  ho  has  earned  a  few  dollars,  ho 
returns  to  slumber,  to  eat,  to  smoke  his  cigar,  and  life  thus 
flows  onward  for  tlicra  without  any  event,  without  suffer- 
ing, like  a  sleep. 

The  last  houses  of  Pueblo  de  Indios' have  disappeared. 
"We  are  entering  into  the  desert,  of  Atacaina.  The  moun- 
tains open  before  us ;  their  chains  stretch  themselves  out 
instead  of  surrounding  us,  and  rise  on  each  side  of  a  long 
narrow  plain,  like  a  wall,  a  sort  of  palisade,  the  top  of 
which,  illuminated  by  tne  sun,  renders  more  sondtre  the 
first  tints  of  twilight  which  begin  to  descend  into  the  plain. 
The  eye  gazes  in  vain  over  this  immense  fiat  and  gray 
surface. 

Our  coachman  looks  often  behind  him.     We  discover 
two  black  points  which  detach  themselves  from  the  hori- 
39 


yOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 

tins  cMU-ountor,  h.hI  not  l'''\" -'  *  '  .'.tv  in  missunng  our- 
a,-awu,jr  near.  ]5.s.les  w.  '  ^^^^^  ';^^,;"  ^V  to  the^n^Ut 
selves  ,m  sooin.ii  tho  Uv..  l'''^^^'";.    J^v  are  l()st  t.)  vk'W. 

„,l  iHu-y  themselves  u.  a  ?";  J,  ,  f^l^^nte  h>^  the  gorge 
We  areerossh,j^niK,nom  k.t.m     a^^  ^^^^  ^^.^.^^^     ^.^ 

(,f  Taxepote.  The  nni.l  i>  ^^/''/^'V^'  '  ,^.,ia.n>  vises  over 
-yin,  roa<l    ior  tl-'o   -   n.  ^^  ^ --,^,   ^Vom   the 

i'ri<nueiits  ot   rocks,  amiu  ii    n<i>v^  • 
,,;mntaius,  a  ehaos,  ^' ^''^ '^^',ii:{^,n.y..r  mine.     Our 

The.-e  -Z^^--;^^^'^!;:!^;;     \h;:.i;  a  illl,  an.l  a  hovel 
first  relay  is  at  (  hile.     i  ik  t.  ^^^^^  ^^^^^^^,^ 

inhahited  hy  a  Cho O  l-oon,  ^\\  * ,  :^'"^^.;  ;',,,t.,  Uulen  Avith 
''''-''  "T''  '"T\'':'"hi^a"^iom'^weektoCopia,o 
ai-ovntilerous  stones  a\  huh  '^^    ^  .  ^    ^        ^Ve  pereeive, 

to1.e  worked  <>.'>^^-"^^^f\\'^\^,{  ^  '^av  k^  Vike  aVromon- 
on  the  point  ot  a  mountain  ^^^^  ,,^.,,,,,  ,,.J  ^ssassi- 
torv  hefore  U8,  a  croBS.     At  t  at  ^h  t  a  ^^^^^_^^  .^^  ^^^.^ 

i.ated  hy  his  <^<>^'n'a'>^:^'\/'  ^^  ;;,,  1  ,  traditions  of  the 
region  to  discover  a  inme  spoken  on  ^^^^^  ^ 

Indians.  They  found  ^ ;,;^.,,^;? 'l'^.,tahlished  landmarks 
ohserved  the  country  ^^'^  .^  "V ?;;,';;;' t,v  carefully  con- 
to  lind  again  the  place  ot  ^^^  ^l^  ^^^  ,,o  oth^  per- 
eealed  the  entrance  ot  ^¥'^T;^^^^,^^ry,nnd  took  the 
son  might  <li^l'''^^'^^'V'^^    nt      iuL^^^  thev  should 

road  i^-r  Copiapo,  ^^  J^''';;' .,^  ^^  ^^  ,^ 
iumuHliately  i;resent  the  ^  J^''"^  '^^  ^  ^    ,,,{  i,,ve  the  pro- 
privilege  of  «^^-:*>7'->V;^'l'     ■  J;^  ^^e  n  tel  hv  the  demon  of 
>erty  legally  n^^p^  ^        -  J^  J,,,  the  .diole 
c-up  ditv,  one  ot  them.  ^M■  nmg  returned  to  Copiapo. 

But  Ills  virtim  wasuot  clo.ul,  ',..',,■        ,,^i„„  the  iiu- 
one  of  these  Chilian  1'^?^^'^',  !       V^;    ,,,na,  and  di.l  not 


i*^ifl 


THE  LOST  MiyE. 


459 


gallopiiia;.  The 
t'ertiiiu  (U'jiroe  of 
it  lull"  ivirivtting 
riie  linfsc'Uion  are 
in  roassm-ing  oiir- 
V  oft"  to  the  rigUt 
■y  are  lost  to  view, 
■ntt'ring  the  gorge 
It  I  ain  Nvrong  \n 
arriag«!  rises  over 
I  down  from  the 

copper  mine.     Our 
a  well,  and  a  hovel 
ic  horses  and  mules 
0  earts,  laden  Avith 
a  week  to  C'opiapo 
mle.     ^Ve  pereeive, 
nees  like  a  promon- 
i  miner  was  assassi- 
set  at  work  in  this 
he  traditions  of  the 
•ich.     After  having 
ahlished  huxUnarks 
,  they  earefnlly  eon- 
'r  that  no  other  per- 
eoverv,  and  took  the 
o  law,  they  should 
atones,  and  claim  the 
e,  and  have  the  pro- 
Mted  hv  the  demon  ot 
'sess  alone  the  whole 
returned  to  Copiapo. 
time  to  drag  himselt 
l)efore  dying  the  un- 
iiame  of 'his  assassin. 
I,  and,  jumphig  upon 
cm  never  to  tire,  he 
■Vtacama,  and  did  not 
iself  and  his  pursuers 


tlie  Cordillera  of  the  Andes  and  the  frontier  of  the  Argen- 
tine Ki-])ul)li('. 

The  mine  lias  since  passed  into  the  condition  of  a  legend 
known  to  all  the  old  nuners.  It  has  detied  all  their  re- 
searches; they  have  never  heen  ahlc  to  find  it.  The  miner, 
condenined  to  death,  lived  many  years  in  the  Argi'ntinc  Ke- 
]nd)lic,  and  on  many  occasions  sent  to  his  friends  a  rough 
]ilan  which  he  had  made  from  memory  of  the  mountains 
around  the  mine,  and  added  that  the  sun  was  on  his  right 
at  tlie  hour  for  the  Ave  Maria,  while  he  was  close  to  the 
mine,  an<l  that  hefore  tiight  he  had  had  time  to  go  to  Santo 
Kosa,  hut  these  vague  indications  starved  only  lo  i'urther 
end)arrass  the  Catadores,  who  have  finally  given  it  up. 
liesides  this  there  are  many  celehrated  mines  which  liave 
heen  lost  since  the  conquest  In'  the  Europeans. 

Our  hoi-ses  begin  to  pant  horribly.  The  road  is  infernal. 
We  are  bounced  to  the  roof,  we  are  thrown  from  right  to 
left,  tossed  about,  etc.  etc.  The  road  becomes  Pmoother, 
the  stars  and  moon  lighten  up  a  circular  valley  which  is 
surrounded  by  high  mountains.  A  light  before  us  I  It 
is  a  lighthouse  in  the  desert,  it  is  the  lantern  of  the  hovel 
of  Chulo.  The  liorses  neigh-— the  i)oor  beasts  smell  the 
stalde — a  dog  barks  in  the  depths  of  the  valley  upon  our 
left.  I  cannot  describe  what  a  singular  charm  1  find  in 
these  noises  which  banish  in  a  moment  all  the  soml)re 
clouds  Avhich  the  aridity  of  the  country,  the  solitudes  of'  the 
desert  '•f  Atacama,  and  the  recitals  of  assassination  which  I 
had  Just  heard, ofnmrders  committed  by  miners,  had  evoked 
in  iny  mind.  The  hovel  is  preceded  by  a  shed,  under  which 
the  peons  sleep,  .ind  around  which  the  horses,  nudes,  cov  s, 
and  goat.s  wander  at  liberty.  There  is  in  the  interior  but  one 
inhabitable  chamber.  It  is  reserved  for  us.  1'— —  yester- 
day sent  to  inform  the  innkeeper  about  our  coming,  which 
explains  the  luxury  which  is  displayed.  IVo  wax  candles 
are  on  a  Avhite  wooden  table;  the  walls  are  covered  with 
illustrations  of  the  Correo  d'Altramar.  A  large  man,  whose 
alxlomen,  jioorl}'  restrained  by  pantaloons  which  reach  half 
way  down  his  legs,  and  jiermit  his  shirt  (evidently  ])Ut  on 
in  honour  of  us)  to  SAvell  out  like  a  smock-frock — naked 
feet,  humble  fat  face,  subdu"d,  timid,  and  jovial,  bids  us 
welcome.     He  loses  himself  in  salutations.     lie  evidently 


NOTES  OF  A  PIASIST. 

U  with  uU  the  respect  .  nc  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^  l^,,,,,i  i\th  hhn, 
he  does  hisbest  HO  that  ^  ^^^^.^  '^  ^;  >  '  ^  us  a  beefsteak  of 
The  good  man  \"t'''-:;;^,  '  -^  j'f  l^gfa^d  goats'  milk.  We 
fresh  meat,  be  ^''^^,;;  r '  J^^^l  tTo  meafis  quiekly  served 
have  a  raveiiou^^  appetite,  '^i;  ;  ^  ^'  ^  |^  ^iJe  tlicrc  is  a 
u  ,  on  a  small  white  wooden  t^^'  •  J;{'  .^'^^  ^,^  ,„,i^eard  of 
^^t  bedstead  witli  -^^^^i^!  ^'e;^:^^^  ^is  accnstomc^ 
luxury,  but  whi.-b  rny  tnv  el  la^  ex  j,.^^.j^^.„,     it 

xno  to'distrust.    ^^^^f^^^^^^^^.^ts       plaited  Btraw.     The 

is  a  shed  ^•*>v^''-'^'V'  <^.t  of  imk  upon  whieh  are  burning, 
iireplac-e,alargetragnientotioeivU  ji,^,^^    gome 

Eetiveen' two  largo  ^^^^  .^^^  ^  ^d  Tlie  wife  of  the  inn- 
firebrands,  branc-bes  ot  *;ly^<^;;  "j;'^^^,  .,  i^rge  piece  of  beet, 
keeper  euts  some  ^^/^j^^^^*  \",:f,,i  ""/c'lion!  in  it  (tbey  put 

are  to  set  out  again  '^^  one  o  dock     ^i  ^^^ 

moon,  altbougb  only,  in  t  e  ^i^t  Jiar  ,  ^^^^^  ^^  ^^^^ 
enough  ligbt  for  our  )ournej  -  Ji^^^\  ^^^^  ^  i.^o  again, 
Sl^^XllSl^rll^^cT^iutbedeUevenm 

tell  him  that  bis  ^'<^^'^f^^,'L':''S^^^  he  replied, "I 

"  Have  you  any  cottee,^    J.^^7made  the  coffee  bimse  f. 

have  some  Costa  Rua.     .^^ '"-     etensions.     I  believe  bo 

^^^^rSri:^^,Ioannot^^ 
sipping  it.  ^  The.  goat  s  milk  ^;  ^  "f^{^^^^^^  uk-a  how 

hive  excellent  cigars     ^^^  ^'^  ^^^  "^^  ^^  hovel,  with  the 
well  off  we  are,  seated  on  tue  bui  u 
starrv  heavens  above  us. 
(Uutinished.) 


tUit!^:^' 


DETAILS  OF  MAXy£IiS. 


461 


Carlos  ^the  director 
sent  hiin  onlcrs  to 
lis,  nnd  to  outertam 
,t"  liiifU  iinportaiK'O, 
|,e  i^loasc'd  with  him. 
■ivc  us  a  bootstealv  ot 
(I  troatrt'  milk.     We 
niriH  quickly  served 
1  each  Hide  tlicrc  is  a 
tress,  au  ui\heard  ot 
iouoe  has  accustomed 
:  at  the  kitchen.     It 
i)laite(l  straw.     The 
u  which  are  burning, 
e  for  andirons,  some 
The  wife  of  the  inn- 
a  large  piece  of  beef, 
onions  in  it  (they  put 
icularly  not  to  drown 

L  of  the  kitchen.    We  _ 

it  is  now  ten.  ibe 
'luarter,  will  give  us 
des  the  natives  ot  the 
,  to  find  a  place  again, 
5  in  the  desert,  even  in 

an  is  evidently  worried 
ws  may  pass  upon  his 
ace  brightens  when  we 

"  «  Yes,"  he  replied, "  I 
lade  the  coffee  himselt. 
tensions.  I  believe  ho 
cotfee-maker,  than  tliat 

express  it,"  said  Billet, 
^gether  exquisite.  We 
,ardly  have  an  idea  how 

of  the  hovel,  with  the 


TALDEiiA,  riiili,  Aiiril  12. 

The  incidents  which  occur  in  a  tnivi'lhng  artist's  cari'cr 
arc  almost  always  the  sanu-.  Tlicv  ai  iirstsci'in  interesting 
through  their  novelty,  but  as  tlity  are  constantly  repi'atcd 
tliey  j)ecome  a  i)art  of  the  monotony  of  tlie  daily  routine. 
It  is  true,  that,  for  foreigners  who  are  not  acquainted  with 
these  co(mtries,  there  are  at  every  stc[i,  in  the  nutst  ordinary 
things,  in  tlie  smallest  details,  apparently  inditl'crent,  a 
thousand  interesting  olwervatic'ns  and  curious  studies  to 
take  notice  of;  but  for  myself,  whom  habitude  lias  reiidi'i'cd 
callous,  and  whose  curiosity  lias  become  deadened,  i  dis- 
cover nothhig  here  which  does  not  seem  to  mo  normal, 
and  it  is  only  by  recalling  my  remembrances  of  Kiirope,  l)y 
the  comparison  of  the  manners  of  the  old  world  with  tlioso 
of  these  societies  hardly 'it  the  commencement  of  civili/.a- 
tion,  that  I  can  seize  on  the  picturesque  or  barbarous  side 
of  the  men  and  things  which  surround  me.  I  no  longer 
keep  my  journal  so  carefully.  The  constant  rejietition  of 
the  same  incidents  tires  me  by  its  monotony.  To  arrive, 
to  pass  through  the  invariable  routine;  visits  to  the  editors 
of  daily  papers;  to  the  artists — to  smile  obsecpiiously, 
efforts  of  mind  and  body  ;  in  one  word  to  perform  all  those 
manoHivres  which  are  indisi)ensab]e  to  the  artist's  success; 
prejiaratory  seances  before  some  judges  of  the  elite;  t()  ])eg 
for  the  good-will  of  pretentious  and  all-powerful  fools, 
are  the  preparations  on  arrival.  I  pass  over  the  mechani- 
cal ].art,  the  concerts.  More  folloAVS  the  deiiarture  with 
the  insejiarable  accompaniment  of  adieus,  of  bills  to  settle, 
trunks  to  pack,  and  a  otra  parte  eon  la  mtislea. 

Life  at  Co])iapo  is  dull  and  tiresome  generally,  but  it  is 
jiarticularly  so  at  present  on  uccount  of  the  approach  of 
Lent. 

1867. 

Left  Copiapo  on  the  twenty-sixth  of  April  at  four  o'clock 
r.  M.,  and  left  Valparaiso  again  on  the  thirtieth  of  April. 

Great  animation  on  board.     All  the  highest  merchants 

come  to  accompany  E ,  who  is  married  this  morning 

with  a  young  German  girl,  Miss  0 .     I  disappear  for 

39* 


I 


4<;-2 


yOTKS  OF  .1  HAS  1ST. 


tlnv.  .lavs,  .Innng  ^yhu■h  \^..         '^^l^.  ,,  ^■,,  is  pl.^.s- 
,,„t.     W.  shall  i.ass  tl.rouuh         ^  '*        \,  ■  j^-.a,  tuUowc..l 

^v^tlHmt  int.m,,.tiou  >y  ';^V'  ai  ni-^^^^^  inhalntaut. 
u  ,lc-solat..  <'''V'>»'^V,'''  V  /v  tl  l<v  '  tn-av,  tlu-  .•oUin- 
Tlu.  w^atluT  is  c.oia  nud  J^V^  ;^  "  .^^^i  j,^    ;:.late  nature 

Klill  i.K.ivsaa.     '^^^V  „,  Lf..i  s      This  c-oast   s  unilurin, 

Htrait.     AVo  must  Mraye  '^    '  ^    1  f;^^,; '  l^^vhi.-h  luakcs  tho 

task  ..fvih'tuig  very  dittuult,      ;*^  '  '       ^      j    •  ,  ,f  ,,f  the 

sun.     Hurrah     '' J' ^^^'^''IZv'i^^l^^^  thc.c.l.trauce. 
,varas  the  strait,  ot  ^^Inch  ANJ^at  k   t    a^  .  t    u  ^^^^^^ 

The  two  shores  'nTI-<>'*''l^^,^'^'^V         .f  rn  1      AVo  i-ereeivo 
country  is  still  '^-''^'J- ^^';;.;;  ^l  "^"five  lU.te.l  hy 

a  little  smoke  -,    jP,  ^   ,^     nul   ci'Wese  desolate  re^.M^ 
souieTn<lian.      \^y^'''}  T   ..vnro  theFue<nans.  nhahi- 

ave  nonm.ls,  and  leroeious      1  h      «  «  ^hc  Uu  ^^^^ 

tu,itB  of  Terra  dol  ^.'^r^;;  ^''^ 'J  v^Lx- ses  a  nulitary 
Htunted  very  "f,;  ;^^^'^;^  J  ;,  'f^  L\\  ho  there  to  nu.r- 
ponal  -  ;;:'{,;^i.l;^^  1^  u^  vorv  dangerous  ^ve  shall  st.n> 
r"'   1         Thc^  i:,   s  as  snuH.th  i^s  a  ndrror,  the  sio^etaelo  i. 

BtiU  more  gl(K)my.     We  cast  anchor. 

May  IS. 

It  i«  tlic  -'ova-mn-  ot  the  colony,  .\1  .  1>1«W.     i  c 

L'u-  w/havo  not  -"-xr; :::  .'s-trii;;;  hwVot 

Our  (Iwirc  to  si'O  tlic   "<ap'm  »'»  •  "^^      b1,„i-cs  «liu-l> 

„c.ti,,g  otMhj.  ..v^o;-  a ;;  -  ;:;„,f,; -„^:;,„  ,;„,v  the 

t^'is:  -iu;'f';u:'.'J:^.rJ';l «.  ..,eea„oe  .m 


Tin:  rn-:(iiA\s. 


4G3 


rli  tlio  old  tnrtuvos 
viiiivHolai'is  plriis- 

it  (if  liiiul,  1ull(.wi4 
IS  regular  ami  lialtl, 
mi'O  of  inlialtitaiit. 

is  gray,  tlu"  rolling 
his  desolate  uaturi' 

tlieeiitranee  ol'tlie 
his  coast  is  unil'oriu, 
>ye,Avliieli  makes  the 
<%ve  have  against  v.s 
ig  the  heii-iit  of  the 
,ng  at  full  npeed  to- 
i.  fomid  the  entrance, 
little  hy  little.     The 
crnal.     AVo  i.erceive 
hly  afire  lighted  by 
these  desolate  regions 
theFuegians.  inlialii- 

of  lire).  They  are 
possesses  a  military 
(hall  1)0  there  to-mor- 
iirurous  Ave  shall  stop 
ifrror,  the  spi'ctaclo  M 
,\vy  tops  of  the  moun- 
crs  the  siiles  of  thcui 

May  18. 
•an    distinguish  a  few 
t  anchor  opposite  the 
and   comes  out  to  us, 
.  Kiobo.     He  comes  to 
L-ncc  for  Tunta  Arena. 
s  suggests  the  idea_  ot 
to  go*on  shore,  Avhich 
L'ondescension,  i>nly  the 
r  than  the  caiiacity  ot 
1  divide  ourselves  into 
ist  left ;  the  canoe  will 


return  for  us  at  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening.  The  chap- 
lain of  the  colony,  a  Francisciui  in  frock  and  hood,  conii's 
to  go  on  hoard.  An  honest  Kngli^hniaii  naively  asks  if  lie 
is  a  I'atagonian. 

We  arc  embarking  in  the  canoe,  the  governor  accom- 
panying us.  Wo  are  passing  before  the  Spiteful,  an 
Knirlisii  corvette  which  watches  the  coast  and  takes 
soundings.  A  few  days  ago  two  of  the  otlicers  embarked 
in  a  canoe  with  which  they  ]iroceede<l  along  the  coast  in 
till'  latitude  which  we  had  just  passed.  Nhmy  Fucgians 
came  to  meet  them.  The  oiHcers  otlered  them  some 
tritles,  buttons,  handkerchiefs,  etc.,  to  conciliate  them, 
which  they  accepted  with  marks  of  contentment,  but  when 
the  oiHcers  turneil  towards  tin- shore  to  rejoin  their  canoe 
the  Fucgians  undertook  to  [jrevent  them.  A  fight  took 
]ilace;  the  two  otHcers  were  armed  with  revolvers  and 
killed  several  rndians,  but  tlii'y  received  a  volK-y  of  arrows, 
two  of  which  woimded  them  Vi-ry  seriously.  1  have  ha<l 
an  opportunity  of  examining  these  arrows,  they  are  very 
small,  the  en<l  is  a  pointed  stone  and  is  very  >liglitly  at- 
tached to  the  wood,  so  that  when  an  attempt  is  made  to 
draw  them  from  the  wound  the  stone  remains  behind. 

These  Fucgians  are  cannibals.  Some  yciirs  ago  the 
governor  of  the  colony,  a  German,  Doctor  riiilliiii,  was 
killed  and  eaten  by  them. 

A\"c  land  at  a  fpiay  which  the  governor  has  just  coii- 
structed.  The  night  is  dark,  but  the  stars  are  shining, 
I  camiot  explain  with  my  jien  the  strange  feeling  which 
I  experienced  on  landing  on  this  Austral  land  one  hundred 
miles  fnmi  Cajte  Horn,  in  tiie  Strait  of  Magellan  in  I'ata- 
gonia,  at  the  antipodes  of  civilization. 

The  governor,  Mr.  Riobo,  has  ]iassed  many  years  in  I'iiris. 
He  is  a  i)erfectly  polished  gentleman,  who  performs  the  hon- 
ours of  his  little  kingdom  like  a  man  accustonu'd  to  the  best 
society.  He  precedes  us  on  the  road.  The_  ground  is 
eovercil  with  short  hard  grass;  it  seems  as  if  we  were 
walking  on  a  car|tet.  We'hear  the  noise  of  some  voices ; 
it  is  fnun  a  group  in  the  darkness  on  the  road.  "  Who  goes 
there?"  it  is  the  passengers  by  the  first  canoe  returning  on 
board  after  havhig  explored  the  whole  of  the  colony. 

"  L  am  taking  you  to  the  palace  of  the  government,"  said 


404 


XOTFS  Of  A  riAMST. 


\iv  T!i,,l».     W.'  C"  "I'll  I'ii:'''  "'■  "'''I'"  t""."*'^^*  "!'""' 

„iu.  Imiidivl  .liiWivi.  uimI  1V..M1.-M,  111.'  l«ilm;.'  >'       "'   . 
■i"   in.l  .ssil.ililv   nl-    mjll.t    has    .■.lax,.!    '."!"■''",,'" 

s    ..-.0      ..•i.l.v.ki.m-  some  very  i.retty  little  dwart  n>ses  but 
V]     .t    ..    •  n  e      The  -mve rnor  h.trodnoes  u.s  to  his  com- 

,  aocnt  fcUn»  wl.Wh  the  t-""""'"' „r:;,«;j^  .'.^     f .^^ 

:?;r  "i.ti,x^™  ;r  <^:i™.i^^t' ub;;^;!^.e  „a,,e 

hull  down  with  one  blow  and  bites  Inni. 

ife  governor  escaped  by  a  miracle  from  one  of  the  t^^o 


r. 

j.rt  to  ii  strcot  al)<>ut 
L't't  Maria,  ftc,  tVom 
:ato.     Tliiri  Htrcft   "h 
ousi's.     It    is   I'mita 
laUitaiits,  aivi«K'<l  in 
I'  tlio  rcjiular  tmops, 
ic  lialanci'  (MUiiiiosfd^ 
iirt  sohlic'fs  ii'uilty  of 
■IS,  l)hu'ksiniths,  otc. 
laxi'tl    miicli    of    tho 
u;   KiiLcli'^liiiiaii  (tluTo 
[\e  criilian  navy  who 
asrturc'rt  1110  tliat  lie  is 

•srcr  than  iho  others, 
i7(1imI  with  a  wooden 
nicnt.  The  governor 
and  whistles.  In  a 
eh  peenied  aBk-ep  is 
idl.  The  Inirraek  is 
ir  from  the  depths  of 
iidiers  with    lanterns, 

onU'i-s.     We  traverse 
lisrlit  of  a  lantern,  we 
r  Rttle  dwarf  roses  hut 
roduees  us  to  his  eoni- 
o  two  little  Anieriean 
mals,  wliieh,  althongh 
L'tty  claws  and   teeth, 
!  dispositions  of  these 
proposes  to  shut  up  in 
Tlu'y  are  of  the  size  of 
ing  at  liberty,  one  laale 
a  body  the  colour  of  a 

long,"remiiiding  one  of 
le  flesh  is  delicate  and 
[  the  llamas.  It  only 
fensive,  and  is  very  for- 
n  its  assailant,  knocks 
him. 
•le  from  one  of  the  two 


rATAGOX/Ays. 


405 


nniniids  at  wliicli  we  are  looking.  W'lun  the  gnanaeo  U 
furious,  he  t'jects  a  greeiii>h  s;ili\  a',  wlii.h  is  very  iini.leasant. 
.S'pjirated  from  the  i\M  of  the  world,  the  jVovenior  has 
<le^•oted  himself  to  the  well-heing  of  his  little'co|,,i,y.  His 
<'oMn.iinii<'atioiis  Milh  the  rest  of  the  world  heiiii;  uuvvr- 
tani,  It  s(.nietiiiies  happens  tliat  for  entire  months  he  is 
without  news  from  Chili. 

(lame  is  very  ahiM.daiit.     ( )slricli.s  and  Lnumacos  ahound. 

A.lmiial   y ,   who    lately  passed    thh.iiiih    the    strait, 

aiimsed  himself  for  some  Ik. ins,  with  jiis  oilicers,  in  l,ii,,t- 
mg,  and  they  tilled  a  eiinoe  with  their  i:aiiie. 

The  governor  showed  us  some  speeiiueiis  of  eoal,  which 
appeareil  excellent;  also  some  fragments  of  atiriferoiis 
(luart/.  found  in  the  mountains  of  I'atiiLronia. 

I5iit  1  hasten  to  arrive  at  the  most  interesting  episode  of 
our  visit  at  i'nnta.     TIk'  goveriK.r  law  sent  for' a  liimilv  of 
I'atagoiiiaiis.    J  cannot  deseriho   he  impression  which  these 
singular  heiiigs  caused  me.     The  first  group  to  which  we 
are  introduced  hy  the  governor,  is  conniosed  of  tlirir  men 
and  one  young  woman.     The  rir>t,  one  in  particular,     id 
very  nmcli  ahove  the  ordinary  height,  hut  is  not  uiirantic. 
Ihat  which  is  particularly  strikini:-,  is  tlu'  prodio-i,'Mis  de- 
velo]mieiit  <.f  the  bust,  the  leiigtli  of  Hie  arms,'  and  tho 
onormous  size  of  the  head  and  icatiires.     The  nos(>  of  tho 
largest  is  at  least  ono-third  larger  than  thelarirest  Kurojiean 
nose  that  I  have  ever  seen.     The  liead  is  enormous,  hut  not 
monstrous.     Tho  features  are  in  iJi-ojiortion  to  the  lieacL 
As  to  tl;e  woman,  she  is  at  least  six  feet  liiuh.     She  is  a 
young  girl  ..f  fourteen  or  fiftei'ii  vears,  admirahly  jiropor- 
tioned, slender, with  a  marvellously heautiful  lace;  (irocian 
statuary  in  its  purest  expression  liiis  never  formulated  anv- 
thjiig  more  beautiful.     The  mouth  ex(piisitely  chiselled,  of 
bright  red,  reveals  on  opciiiui;  ihe  whitest,  most  iiolished, 
and  tho  prettiest  teeth  that  I  have  over  seen.     Kamicha  is 
the  most  colossal  and  the  most  beautiful  girl  in  the  world. 
Ihit  here  1  am  very  much  embarrassed  in  front  of  this 
beautiful  Caryatide,  who  tendei-s  me  a  charming,  thoiit>-h 
large,  hand,  and  shakes  with  a  co(piettish  movenient  of  I'Pcr 
head  her  cojiper  ear-iiendants,  of  Avhich  she  seems  to  ho 
particularly  proud.     How  shall  I  undertake  to  tell  it  youV 
Kanucha,  the  beautiful  girl,  is  a  handsome   boy!   'The 


^^,^^  .Vo77;.SC>/'.l  /"M.N7.ST.       . 

♦  lU  ,n..  U'  U  a  vouth  tl>at  all  th.  \\iUv^<^n\nm 

,,,,.„.,.l.v  »l...iU.'.     In  "I'l"'""    '  ■,■„     „.l.i.-li  H  iH'M.l.-iv.l  v.'i-y 

''^'■''''t"'\\T;^„.!;■';;Tli^^■^   '""■•••'■'"-''' '''■'■'■•■'■'■''''^ 

lasti'ii  oil  the  cla^st,  I.}   a  '''  c  ,'      L-,,, ,  ,1h.  coia,  wliwli 
y-V  "l-;  ^'^,;  !;;.n\:u'!  a;;";Us:rasn.U.las  .la.lr 

li.iuor^  ivpivsri.t  llu  m  /'"'^  ,,.,.,..1,;,, '•  It  is  not  a  ram 
,;,|,  ,  ,,.„tle  <.f  bnualy  -'^^f^^^XT^vi^-s  consent,  the 
,,,.,  to  HOC  a  '-  ;^;:;i,;;^  ,;.r  -tain  ti.no,  to  pro<.n.v  a 
latter  to  one  ol_  y'V'.'  "  V  ,'  ,„,  .„»  ..tf  to  swallow  innnc 
low  bottles,  wiach  both  ot     lam  ^^^^ 

aiately.     Tbcy  are  not  1'  ;■=';';       .-   "^,,,1  the  Jol.l  is  too 

1--  <>^  ^!r;r'l^:r;h;:  S  r  ol^^aKu  .man.  groups, 
Hniall.  lla>y  ll^^  ^i'*  "^  ,vli.r-u,n.  Family  ties  even 
l„it  without   ^-vc-rnnu   t  0     h    .-     >  ^^J  ^^^,,,  „,,.,„. 

have  no  ^"^^'^^enee,  s.neo  xe  >    t^H       ^^  .        ^^,,„i,,,, 

hers  of  a  gnmi.  will  '  y-     '  \;,  ,„  ,irunk  they  bc- 

Their  eliarac^er  i^^cuc  1  U  U  -t    ^^^^^^^  ^^.^^^  ^^^^  ^.  ,^^^^,^ 

eoino  ieroeious      \\  Ian  ans  en  .^  ^^^^^^^  ^^  ^,„^ 

everything  -bu-h  bc^..^'<     -  \^;^\^  Umeaiately  eate.j 
his  grave.     The  tlesli  ot  the  m     |  .nnbitions,  of  all 

l„.,uii  for  tho  same  vm^f^;-   .  y     a  bowiuI  «<|ua.l 


m'K\os  A  runs. 


407 


11  tin.'  ruta^'otmiiw 

f  ,1  woiiiati,  tlivwrti'rt 

nctrt  liK«  <"'*'•    ,^ 

(.iiicii,  ^vll■u•U  tlu'V 
l-oriolis  iicin'lii""irs, 

Ai  irt  rc'iult'icil  yi'iy 
oldssiil  iir(«i»irtl()ns. 
^  of  Dili'  <>i"  K'Vt'nil 
■1,  is  turiinl  iiisid*'. 
\\]\\r\i  tlu'  woiinii 
j.iii,  iiiitl  AvliifU  i-< 
iiir  llu'  ••olil,  Avlii'li 

.r  a  triiikot  nn>ui\(l 
r    I/iki- all  liKliiitis 
k.     Ki)i-tlii'iuar«Uiit. 
H.'l.iiu'ss.     Tlu'V  I'l-e- 
i.j;.     It  is  not  a  raro 
c  will's  coiisiMit,  the 
11  tiiiio,  to  i>r<)fiiri'  a 
If  to  swallow  iiiuiKv 
,1.1.    ThfV  imvIVt  tho 
r,nn<l  llu- ir-'l'l  i^  ^•'•■> 
|rt_iu  Hiuall   •!;roui>s, 
.     Family  tics   cvoii 
tly  one  or  two  luoir- 
ior  a  time;  another, 
when  drunk  they  hc- 
-•  them  tlies,  they  l)iiru 
l{  kill  his  hoi-rtc  upon 
is  immediately  eaten. 
heir  amhitions,  of  all 
:ed  U'e  if  1  would  not 
.    Tliey  are  going  oii 

\id.     A  seeond  s(iuad 

■en,  Nata,  a  woman  of 

several  children :  her 

1  of  prey,  gives  a  hard 


niipearance  to  hrr  eimniions  liicc,  luit  on  cxiiinination  ono 
dis<'i)\(rs  a  mild  and  chiinninu;  exiire-sion  in  it.  'I'lio 
tratiires  |insscss  all  iidiniraltle  purity.  She  larrii's  in  her 
anus  a  little  one,  a  liahy  of  iil'teeii  months,  us  large  as  u 
child  of  tell  years  of  age,  wliosc  roltiist  hody,  iiot\>ith- 
stamrmg  the  eold,  is  <()m|iletely  naked. 

Hi'KN  IK  AviiKK.  .Iniinnry  IH,  18(5S, 

Notwithstanding  tlie  heat  (one  hiiiidreil  ami  six  degrees 
jvhove  the  /I'l'o  of  I'ahicnheit's  theinicineter),  iiotwitii- 
standing  tlie  war  of  raragnay,  which  liiis  already  co-t  the 
four  hclligi'reiit  parties  nearly  two  hniidrcil  thousand  iiu'ii, 
three-foiirlhs  of  whom  liave  heeii  di'stroyed  hy  ehoU-ra, 
typlius,  dysentery,  and  pestilence;  iiotwith.-tamling  the 
eommeri'ial  crisis,  tnic  of  the  lirst  etli'cts  ot'  which  lias 
hooii  at  Montevideo  the  enforeeiucnt  of  a  baper  eiirreiiey; 
notwithstamling  the  civil  war  in  tlie  interior  provinces  of 
tin-  rc[inl»lic-,  notwithstanding  the  invasion  of  the  frontiers 
hy  Saa,  Varela,  and  1  know  not  how  many  other  hrigands 
wJH)  live  only  hy  rapine,  and  whose  title  of  general,  which 
ihey  assume,  would  not  in  any  other  countries  than  these 
save  from  the  gallows  or  the  galleys  which  they  have  a 
thousand  times  deserved;  notwithstanding  nil  tlk'sc calami- 
ties, the  company  of  I'arisiaii  hoiitles,  liroiight  to  l'>ueiios 
Ayres  hy  Mr.  D'l  lote,  lias  made  its  dehiit  at  the  Argentine 
theatre  in  the  havards  of  Otrenhaeh. 

I  siis[iect  that  the  Latin  ]iroverh  ir.  wrong  for  once-  and 
their  audacity  will  not,  I  tear,  ho  crowned  with  success. 
The  company  is,  however,  far  from  heing  unworthy  of  rhe 

puhlic  tiivour.     ^hldemoiselle  11 ,  the  prima-donna,  is 

jirctty  and  sings  well;  Mr.  K.,  the  tenor,  is  an  excelK'iit 
actor;  Mademoiselle  15.  ilanees  jiretty  well,  and  has  fine 
legs;  Mr.  D'llote  himself  is  a  splendid  coniie  actor.  Hut 
tlu'se  ladit's  and  gentlenu'ii  had  not  even  seen  the  footlights 
of  the  Argentine  theatre  hefore  they  knew  to  what  cause  to 
attrihute  their  non-success. 

February  3. 

My  health  is  ])assal>le.  T  have  had  to  go  to  the  conntiy 
to  escape  the  cholera  which  was  here.  Almost  twenty-eight 
thousand   persons  have   died  of  it  within  three  mouths. 


4G8 


XOTES  OF  A  riASIST. 


T.  •    hnvril.lo     -rTn,..i1v  it  has  almost  disappoaml.    Natn- 
'lli;  ti;;.re  t  no  conoerts,  every  lamily  be.ng  m  n.ournu.g. 

February  11. 

Volitioal  events  have  l.rokon  up  the  monotony  of  our 
^tr  not  know  if  I  have  ^^^^^t:'::!^^^^^^^ 

Ins  ims<kvas  ^1'%^'^*'-/''':'  V(  ,,,,.,,.  ^.t^loutevideo.    ^n>aU 

Fortunato  llorrs,  he  is    »        *    '  '^-^^^^^^  ,unue,whic-h,hy 

and  great  trenibleou  l^^'-^V^fJ;''!'-,    4V.t  antithesis  of  the 

a  singukar  chance,  socnis  to  ^^^^^t^^,  1'^    ^^^J;"'; "  Foutin.to 

foroc-ious  character  o     *^^,«  ""',  ^'ji  ,  ^^^^^^^^  Since 

F.ouKMit.mlWtnjnsl^ed.nc^ 

2::^:;!  »a|  to  nie  in.  i^un^ons  ..^^^^^^^^ 

the  peaceable  and  V'<^«^■\>^;;■^\'^^4°;^i^ 
^vhom  he  had  assassnuited,  tl'7;^>^^  |;;' ...j^^.i^  hivariably 
given  to  a  Frenchwoman,  »";\1^\;^*^.  f^  ^s  clmnco  ihrei 
Lmin..U.l  l^^'^;;^;:,:^^i^;;;;:t^  it  was  easy  h. 
nic  m  fhe  way  ot  tlie  »"*^;  ^1^  ■;  1  •  1  j^^.  ^^oke  to  me  that 
n.o  to  see  from  the  f^"^^ .X^^nSJ^^^  with  n.e,but 
he  would  have  been  happy  to  li'\^^l"'"^;         the  salutary 

fear  which  the  Unitul  fet'it|s  1  ,-,i,>asure  of  m^t  soemg 
Lad  its  ei^ct  ^H-n  hiuv  I  had  Jhej  jj^^^^^^^^^ 
him  draw  his  rcNuUei.  ^."^^^"''^' 1...  ..i^ycd  for  him  ma 
gentle  with  me,  and  ^^'''^P  J'^'i^J^,^tVM  by  making 
i^oncert  the  }f^^^^  ^  ,;^SShs  a^o  Mr.  l^>rtunato, 
a  conquest  othiin.  ^-f^'-^' ,,  V. '  x-  .i,„  niinister  of  foreign 
finding  tanltwith  the  F'l^tKS.ot  the  mm  _ 

affairs:  went  to  his  house  «'^^^,f  ^.  ^"^.i^^^if  k/'i.vser.ed 
under  the  influence  ot  f  ^^^"^  ,^  '^^^^^^^^ 
against  a  certain  othcei%  ho     '^^  ;^T,^{^'    J,    ,,4,1,  bayonets; 
to  seek  him,  g'^^roted  hin>        1  ked  him  jw        j      ^^^^ 

^vith  a  choke-pear  in  his  mout    *"  f '^^^^^  i^^o 

,omtbrt  of  crying,  l-^X-T^-i^-Sh2i  without  the 

L::J^gS;-;»  ;  S^ 


FORTH  SATO  FLORES. 


409 


ppoar 


c(l.     Natu- 


'm<l  in  niourmiig. 

February  11. 

monotony  f)t'  oi"' 

,  of  the  son  of  the 
iu'(iuiiv(l  through 
lit.  His  nan  If  is 
oiitcviiloo.  Small 
.1  name,''vhic-h,l)y 
b  antithesis  of  the 

:'S    it.      FORTI'NATO 

itc  Flowers,  Since 
,iied  respecting  his 
■(Uis  extravagances, 

the  middle  classes 
le  ear  which  he  had 
,  which  invarialdy 
i-s.     Chanco   threw 
o.     It  was  easy  for 
c  spoke  to  me  that 
relied  with  me,  l)ut 
erhaps,  the  salutary 
11  all  these  tyrants, 
?asure  of  not  sceuig 
IS  hccome  somewhat 
)layed  for  him  in  a 
I  ended  hy  making 
^agoMr.Fortunato, 

niinister  of  foreign 
m  a  caning.     Then, 

which  he  preserved 
diers  of  his  regiment 
him  with  hayonets; 
e  from  him  even  the 
aclc  on  his  neck  into 
ht  hours  witliout  the 
hhig  to  drink,  or  to 
as  l"  ft  there  to  die  of 
n-  any  one  else  in  the 


world  woidd  ever  know  whar  had  heeome  ot  him.   _  Aiter 
nianv  other  tortures  he  gave  him  a  kick  and  sent  hini  ..n. 
lie  had  already  heeii  ii'iiiltv  of  so  many  rohhenes,  tiiat,  in 
^i.ite  of  the  terror  which  he  inspired,  and  of  the  number  ot  in- 
dividuals which  he  ha<l  with  his  own  hand  despatched  t..  the 
other  worl.l,  a  General  cry  of  indignation  was  heard  troni 
evervwhere,  and  the  i-apa  of  this  amiahle  young  man  limti'd 
to  Kl.rtunato  that  State  reasons  recpured  that  he  should  have 
a  chan-v  of  air.     He  left  for  France.     His  exile  was  to  last 
two  vears.     He  remained  ..even  days  m  Europe;  and_  t wo 
months  and  u  half  after  his  departure  from  Mc.utevidco, 
what  was  the  ceiu'va.  consternation  on  sei'ing  one  tine  moni- 
i,,.^  Fortunato  descend  from  the  Knglish  vessel  arriving  trom 
Furopi".     Soon  after  he  betook  himself  to  his  old  wavs. 
Rest.uvd  hy  his  own  authority  to  the  grade  ot  colonel,  lie 
he..-an  to  keep  his  hand  in  hy  torturing  his  soldiers  and  his 
otiic-ers.     One  niirht  he  took  a  fancy  to  mvite  seveial  per- 
sons to  supi-er.   'Ihinllyhad  the  dessert  come  on  when  lie 
became,  as  usual,  fiiriouslv  .lrunk,an<l  gave  an  ordt'r  to  liis 
aid-decamp  to  seize  his  guests  and  send  them  to  pass  the 
night  in  the  guard-house.     This  took  place  at  the  hotel 
wiiere  1  lodged. 

The  whole  ni<>-lit  the  other  hoarders  and  myselt  were  on 
the  alert  liocause  Fortunato  had  propose<l  tiring  his  ].istol 
in  the  corridors.  He  broke  three  hundred  tumblers,  as 
many  plates,  all  the  lookhig  glasses,  and  did  ';ot  retire 
until  exhausted  hy  drnnkenneh.-  and  fatigue  he  lett  to  go  to 
bed.  His  youngbrothers  (the  youngest  is  seventeen  years 
old)  aoeomnanicd  him  that  night  as  usur.l  (they  are  also  bad 
like  him,  but  less  satiated  than  their  elder  brother),  went 
to  an  aristocratic  club  where  they  knew  tlie  i.ohtical  adver- 
saries of  their  father  met ;  as  they  anticii.ated,  one  ot  them, 
an  hono'U-able  and  venerable  father  of  a  lamily,  rich  an<l  ot 
the  bet.^'r  class,  was  plaving  at  billiards  at  the  moment 
when  they  entered.  Young  Flores,  the  one  seventeen  yeai-s 
old,  struck  him  a  hard  blow  with  a  cue  which  stretched  him 
on  the  tlour,  pulled  out  some  of  his  Avhiskers,  kicked  him  m 
the  lace  with  his  boots,  and  went  away,  leavmg  him  bathed 
in  blood  and  unconsciou: 

Since  mv  departure  f  om  Motevideo  I  heard  at  small 
intervals  the  fresh  mi  >aeedd  of  Fortmiato  and  his  brothers 
40 


iaSfal-3*»a^i;^i4«t^«^f'S^'^^^'^^' " 


470 


NOTES  OF  A  PIAMST. 


ppnkon  of:  srnio  broken  heads,  women  outraged,  and  other 
similar  pecoaailloes,  hut  no  assassinations,  leading  mo  to 
hoi-o  that  these  gentlemen  were  meiuhng.     Ail  at   onee 
tliree  davs  ago,  thV^  i^uhmarine  teleiirapli,  wliieli  erosses  the 
l)av  andwuneets  Montevideo  andliueiios  Ayres,  l)nngs  ua 
tlie  following  news:   Fortiuuiio  and  lii-s  irothors  luioc  men 
cuialnst  t/n'irpif/>n;han'n<iiml  am-  the  ,jarvisi,>,,  and  over- 
turned General  Flores,  vho  has  been  (M;<jed  to  ahandon    he 
t(„n>   and  has  fled  to  Union,  firo  leagaex  Jrom  JJoiiterateo. 
The  details  soon  reaehed  ns.     Fortunato,  tired  ot  the  mae- 
tion  in  whieh  the  old  dietator  left  him,  had  had  a  very 
exoited  disenssion  with  him,  at  the  end  of  whieh  he  boxed 
hi.^  father's  ear.s.     Hurrying  to  his  barraeks,  he  came  with 
his" brothers  at  tiie  liead  of  his  regiment  and  seized  all  the 
posts,  throuu'h  the  ef/wardice  or  the  defeetiou  ot  those  who 
guarded  them  ;  the  whole  band  marehed  to  the  Hotel  de 
Ville  where  Flores  and  all  his  family  had  fled.     In  vain 
the  old  wife  of  Flores,  a  very  vulgar  woman,  formerly  a 
washerwoman,  whs^se  blind  idolatry  for  Fortunato  is  the 
oidv  souree  of  his  had  instinets,  threw  lierselt  at  the  teet  ot 
this  wreteh.     "  I  do  not  know  yon,"  he  cried  out  to  hen 
«  Do  you  for'^et,"  eried  out  to  him  the  old  general,     that  i 
am  not  onlv  your  chief,  that  l)eforo  being  the  first  magis- 
trate of  the  Vepublic,  I  was  yom  father  ?"     "Get  out  of  the 
wav,"  replied  Fortunato  tohiri,"or  I  irdJ^Pre  vjwnyou 
oil"     And  the  little  brothers,  infuriated,  brandished  their 
swo'-ds  to  excite  their  soldiers,  for  the  most  part  drunk. 
Poor  old  Flores,  with  downcast  held,  and  strangling  his 
tears,  retreated  and  fled,  with  some  forty  ^aithful  tollowers, 
to  conceal  himself,  as  I  have  said,  to  Union,  and  tlie  whole 
town  remained  at  the  mercy  of  the  revolutionists.     But  the 
fMvio-n  population,  which  is.inflnitely  more  numerous  at 
lyh.nuvideo  than  that  of  the  natives,  Nvere  justly  alarmed. 
Thev  had  a  right  to  be  alarmed  a.^  such  brigands,     ihe 
diplomatic  corps  met  aiitl  were  deliberating  as  to  what  means 
phouldbe  taken  to  protect  tlie  propcty  and  lives  ot  tor- 
eicniers,  when  the  news  arrived  thav  J  ortunato  had  forced 
tlie  custom-house  stores,  and  sei/A'd  all  :he  boxes  and  hales 
which  were  shut  up  there,  to  make  barricades  ot.     'J  he 
forei<^n  miiiisters  immediatelv  transmitted  to  their  respec- 
tive admirals  an  order  to  land  their  troops.     The  Amen- 


AUDACITY  OF  FORTCNATO. 


471 


outraged,  ancT  other 
oiis,  loading  mo  to 
ling.     AiTat  once 
1,  whicli  crost-os  tiio 
los  Ayros,  brings  us 
>  bnythcrs  hdoc  risen 
-•  (jarrit<(>n,  (ind  ovcr- 
'l<j((l  to  (ilxiiiildn  til'' 
"*■  J'ro)a  3Joii(cri<U'o. 
(),  tii'cd  of  tho  iuac- 
iiu,  had  had  a  very 
id  of  which  /(('  Imuc'I 
•racks,  ho  canio  with 
it  and  soizod  all  tho 
foc'tion  of  those  who 
lied  to  tho  Hotel  do 
y  had  fled.     In  vain 
woman,  formerly  a 
or  Fortunato  is  the 
herself  at  the  feet  of 
he  cried  out  to  her. 
.  old  general,  "  that  I 
leing"  the  first  magis- 
r?"     "Get  out  of  the 
<•  I  mil  Ji re  Vjwn  you 
ted,  hrandished  their 
lio  most  part  drunk. 
1,  aud  strangling  his 
rty  faithful  followers, 
LTuion,  and  the  whole 
•olntiouists.     But  the 
ly  more  numerous  at 
were  justly  alarmed, 
such  brigands.     The 
itiiig  as  to" what  means 
orty  and  lives  of  for- 
Fortunato  had  fore,.-.! 
11  ;he  lioxes  aud  bales 
!  barricades  of.     The 
aitted  to  their  respec- 
•  troops.    The  Ameri- 


cans, the  Italians,  the  English,  the  Spaniards,  tbo  Brazilians 
disombarked  and  took  possession  of  tlio  custom-houso  and 
the  legations.  Fortunato,  whose  audacity  has  no  limits, 
votijiiii  theiii  to  dislodge  immediately  under  ]iain  of  seeing 
themselves  attacked  by  the  troops  under  his  orders.  "Come, 
if  you  dare,"  was  the  response  of  tlie  admirals.  The  hero 
found  it  wiser  not  to  try  tho  adventure,  and  shut  him- 
self up  in  a  little  fort  wbich  li.'  barricaded,  and  whoso 
avennes  were  gnarded  by  cannons.  Recovered  from  tlieir 
panic,  father  Flores  and  his  faithful  followers  rallied  other 
soldiers  and  foreigners.  They  retur.ied  to  Montevideo. 
The  attitude  of  the  foreigners  was  too  resolute  for  Fortu- 
nato not  to  understand  that  he  had  lost  tho  game.  lie 
consented  to  a  parley.  The  cunning  follow  had  taken 
care  to  keep  as  hostage  an  old  man.  General  Balle,  minister 
of  war,  and  signified  that  if  his  projjositions  Avcro  not 
acceded  to,  he  would  shoot  liis  prisoner,  and  would  not  sur- 
render until  after  lighting  to  the  last  extremity.  Father 
Flores  Avas  obliged  to  accei)t.  TIk^  agreed  not  to  take  the 
life  of  any  of  the  rebels,  to  give  tliirty  thonsand  dollai-s 
to  Fortunato,  ,uid  i)ermit  him  to  embark,  witii  his  otHcors, 
without  being  molested,  and  since  yesterday  avo  have  had 
tho  honour  of  baving  the  celebrated  colonel  wii  li  us.  I  met 
him  yesterday  in  the  street.  I  was  hoping  tbat  bo  would 
not  know  me,  but  as  soon  as  ho  saw'  me  he'raii  towards  me 
extending  his  arms,  and  Avilling  or  unwilling,  1  had  to  re- 
ceive his  hug. 


CHAPTER   XXXI. 

February  13,  1808. 

FoRTUXATO  re-embarked  the  very  evening  of  our  ren- 
contre. It  appears  that  he  assassinated  a  Fivncbman  liere 
a  year  ago,  and  the  affair  having  boon  brought  to  the  notice 
of  tho  Argentine  government  by  tlie  consul  of  Franco, 
as  soon  as  lie  learned  of  the  arrival  of  the  celebrated  colonel, 
the  latter  found  it  more  prudent  to  pack  off.     He  is  on 


.J  j^OTES  OF  A  riASIST. 

La  an  ItaUan  ^^frf^:::'\Iel^^o:^^'^^^ 
t<Muo,-n>w  by  tl.e  I'^'^^'f  .^'^^  ^.^e"!;        1  -h  I  know  he 

possesses,  lie  will  juielvl)  ^"'^'^';/  ,,,,.., ,..ti„..  the  iiiuonnn- 
[n  speakin.u'  ofpo  itics,  1  7.'''  '  '<^^  .'  1^,  l^"';.  ,  ,a'lns  oUl 
ions  fall  of  iTado,  the  ^^^;  ';^  '\^.^  •  4'\'^:  '^,  l,,.,,!  in  to 
aec.onn.lu-^  ni  t^  J.VC  u  1.1  ^^^^^^  ^^ 

arrive  at  l.o^\el,  am  111.^  .;.,..!  j  before  Arequ  pa,  m  whu'h 
turned  and  ^I'^ue^-l   -  ^^  .^^^^^^^^^^  W.\Un  Inniseh 

he  showed  huiisoU  a^  tow  auuy  a-.  >  it„  :.  „  ^yretch  who 
up  to  this  time  insolent  ";»!  dcsp  t  c  He  is  a  ^  c  .^^^  _ 
his  Indian,  mulatto,  and  ^",'^'^^^,^',^^"  '^^i.i't  eir  w(.rst 
,nt  has  taken  ^^^,^''t  ^^nd'enmity  sepa- 
traits.     I  eordially  dctc st     in      ^v  1  jespotism 

rates  l)oih  of  us.  I  1»\^  .^^^^  V,^^  e  ,1  son,  one  daV  that 
and  barbarism,  ""^.P^^^V-;^^:'  ;^  ^  ^'e  V  my  firmness,  and 
he  sent  twenty  soldiers  to  ^iH^t  "^^'/J   J^.^   diplomat- 

and  dangerous  countries  .^^^^  ^^^^^^ 

In  l'>oliv!a  a  J^^'^^^^ion  has  j  st  I  u^Kc  ;,^,^.^,.t,„,ate 

furiously  mad  tK^i^^'^'^l^^lS'^^^V^^^t^^^^^^^^^  ropnbliesl 

c..>untry  for  the  Y^^^^oZm^h^Vr^^^V^^^^'^^''''^^ 
AVhat  scorn  and  wluitont.  age  upon  Tnci         1^      ,^,iaents 

onuality,  and  ft^ternily  are  e^   '>i^\^^^  Justice,  and 
of   domoeracies,   who    tiampi^      1  ^^j,pituaes  whu-h 

lower  empire  I 

Bden-08  Avhes,  February  13,  18G8. 

K       -net  Intolv  died  in  a  neighbouring  village ;  no  one 
A  r^^est  latel}  (iieci  1     a       ..  ^      contagion. 

man,  always   on  l'^»-^tf'l«  of  ^^Vle  rapine,  civil  war. 


BAD  rniJJSTS. 


473 


•  Europe  to-day  or 
,viU  soon  I'O  epokcn 
\vhu'h  I  know  lie 
kiiovvM.     iL  propos, 
latinsi  the  itriiomiu- 
jm,  Whom  liiri  old 
he   euiiasicd   in  to 
t  Linur,  have  (nor- 
Arefiuipa,  in  which 
had  Bh(j\vn  himseU 
He  19  a  wretch  who 
blood  in  his  veins  ; 
^eo8  only  their  worst 
ersonal  enmity  seiui- 
r  from  his  despotism 
prison,  one  day  that 
by  my  firmness,  and 
>  myself  he  diplomat- 
lie  fear  which  these 
is  the  only  safeguard 
1  find  ill  these  hostile 

•okcn  out  against  that 
or  of  that  unfortunate 
^rs.  ^Vhat  repnhlicsl 
ic  principles  of  liherty, 
iiese  pseudo-presidents 
)n  riudit,  justice,  and 
lose  turpitudes  which 
the  saturnalia  of  the 

Ayres,  February  13,  18G8. 

During  village  ;  no  one 
fear  of  the  contagion, 
itrelying  hody  was  SUCH 
at  some  mode  of  pro- 
A  g;\ueh()  (a  couiitry- 
,e  existence  is  divided 
•attle,  rapine,  civil  war, 
ea  of  making  use  ot  his 


lasso  (the  lasso  is  a  strap  of  thirty  or  forty  feet  in  length, 
at  the  end  of  wliich  is  a  slip-knot,  which  he  throws  iVom 
his  running  horse  to  an  incredible  distance,  and  with  which 
he  seizes  oxen  and  wild  horses  either  by  the  head  t)r  legs); 
he  threw   the  lasso,  at  a  great  distance,  and  caught  the 
body  by  one  leg,  and  drew  it  to  a  distant  spot  on  the  desert 
of  the  i'ampas,  where  he  left  it  to  the  birds  of  prey,  who 
would  soon  desjuitch  it.     Do  not  let  the  character  of  the 
dead  add  anything  to  the  horror  witii  which  this  jii'ocecd- 
ing  will  inspire  you.     The  clergy  have  shown  themselves 
to  bo  what  they  have  always  i)een  here — rapacious,  cow- 
ardly, corriii)t,   hideous,  egotistic,  the    receptacle,  finally, 
of  ail  the  vices  which  are  engendered  by  idleness,  ignorance, 
laziness,  hypocrisy,  and  the  imiiunity  with  which  all  their 
worst  passions  are  satiated.     A  few  tiisters  of  Charity  have 
alone  shown  themselves,  as  always,  devoted.     They  are,  I 
should  add,  Europeans ;  but  what  could  live  or  six  good^ 
creatures  do  in  the  midst  of  a  i>lague  which  has  carried  off 
in  three  months  twenty-five  thousand  souls  V     Those  who 
live  among  the  English  or  the  French  Catholic  clergy  can 
never  know  what   a  bad   priest  can  he.     The  cassocke<l 
bandits  of  South  Americ-a  must  be  seen  to  comprehend  the 
indignation  which  animates  me. 

Those  of  ]}uenos  Ayres  are  authorized  by  law  to  collect 
twenty  francs  for  every  corpse  buried  by  them  ;  but  the 
law  adds :  "When  the  means  of  the  family  of  the  deceased 
shall  enable  it  to  be  paid."  They  saw  that  the  harvest 
promised  to  he  fruitful,  so  they  raised  this  right  of  sejuil- 
turc  to  forty  francs,  and,  like  vultures,  fatten  ujion  dead 
bodies.  The  more  dead  bodies  there  were,  the  greater  the 
merry-making  among  them.  Tiie  municipality,  learning 
that  a  great"  number  of  corpses  were  lying  deprived  of 
sepulture  on  the  ground  at  the  gate  of  one  of  the  ceme- 
teries, the  poverty  of  their  relatians  depriving  them  of  the 
luxury  of  possessing  forty  francs,  gave  notice  to  the  gentle- 
men priests  that  they  must  nothwithstanding  bury  them, 
pro  Del  gratia  (for  (jod's  sake).  These  worthy  ministers 
of  a  religion  of  devotion,  of  charity,  and  of  poverty  refused 
to  give  extreme  unction  to  those  who  did  not  pay  in  ad- 
vance the  expense  of  their  future  burial.  What  a  race! 
AVhat  a  )jeople!     The  people  of  the  Argentine  Republio 

40* 


NOTES  OF  A  rHyiST. 

;,„„,  „„d  ov..,v  '-'    ;X,r  CWnnls  vulture,  luu-j. 
„iv  al)iuiilouo>l  '>y.''"'*''   '^,^'  „VhIio<1;  cultiviiting  litllo 

,r.,\-lu.t,  iu  liou     ;>=i«t:  ^,''.':"  ;,"&  ,|,e„,  to  stall  an  ">- 

•r;,c.r,  au,l  of  the  k"^";:^  ;-  ^  ^^  i:!:  ...u,  !.l»mr ;  the 

.Vividual  iu  the  back;  "»«ttai^iui  pnnc  plurf  winch 

t  a  republic  (ancmtrap^ou   ^^^^^^ak  u,ldcr  which 

t^>-  wonl  vop>..eut.    ^^  ^  them  a.^^^^  ^^  despotism  urn 


There  are  »^^V^\^'^-^.;Vii^"tff      ine  Republic.    Alas  I    I 
throat.-,  aud  ^l^i^^ /;.  ^^^^  ,^^'^^\,,,,i,h.Am^  republicBj 

rnight  almost  say,  behold  th^^^^^^^^^^  ^^^  ^^^^^^  agglomera- 

lbr:exceptChih,allthe  go  urn        ^^^^^^^^  ^^  American 

tiou3  of  bandits  ^'^^\f  ,  ^"^'^^1,.^,  republics,  from  Mexico 
liberty,  and  ^vlu;;^^-^;^^^^^^^^  theft,  barbar- 

Buenos  Ayres,  May  ^5. 

The  saddest  country^in  ^^^ -^jj^^^^^d^^f 
itself  "P  to  become  an  ox^-e;e»>^  ,omn4ces  at  the 
tensions,  a  ^"^^^r\ 'S^cX  m^^  reaches  to  those  which 
lowest  round  ot  the  l^^^^  f  S^^"  the  place  of  everything, 
are  at  the  highest    ^.^^^'^"^^^^^^^^^  amy  a 

the  church  a  shop,  tj^e  gmgun  ^^^^  ^^^  ^^^^    ^ 

cut-throat-only  one  woiblnp,  on  y  ^^.^^^  ,,,  tjie 

riutus.    Venus  hersef  IS  not   aaoie  '      ,^^^j    ^^^      ^^^er 

MosTEViDEO,  December  15,  1868. 


SEVEN  OCTAVES. 


475 


itudos,  all  cormp- 
In  thirt  liiition  ivll 
(Irf,  vultures,  lmrj», 
;  cultivatinj;  littlo 
ily,  with  tlu'  brt'rtrtt 
ill  the  use  of  tlie 
thoni  to  stub  an  m- 
111  from  labour ;  the 
0(1  vrinciplert  whieh 
I  cloak  under  whu-li 
(1  of  (lortpotism  anil 
le  brazen-laced  take 
Ich-cow— the  i.ubhc 
■orful,  Hhamelesrf,  or 
rl  them  from  power. 
loy  cut  each  others 
Republic.    Alas!    I 
American  republics ; 
of  these  as?glomcra- 
janner  of  American 
publics,  from  Mexico 
andage,  theft,  barbar- 
anished. 

Buenos  Ayres,  May  25, 

Id,  a  frog  that  puifs 
here  exaggerated  pre- 
ich  commences  at  tno 
reaches  to  those  which 
he  place  of  everything, 
a  barrack,  the  army  a 
■J  one  religion,  that  ot 
,red,  and  even  m  the 
ilv    worshipi.cd    under 
liis  takes  place  in  the 
rest.     Sadl  ->ad!    The 
3e,  an  odious  farce. 

rEViDEO,  December  15,  1868. 

tverand'Tarantelle'for 
animent,  which 'Taran- 


tollo'  I  have  dedicated  to  Tier  Roval  Ilii^hncaa  the  Priiicesa 
Marguerite,  of  Italy.  One  of  my  best  friends,  Count  ( Jioan- 
niiun,  an  ext-elk'nt  amateur  ]»imiist,  ex-minister  from  Italj- 
to  Jhienos  Ayres,  has  promised  to  present  the  eoniposi- 
lion  to  tlie  princess,  himself,  and  assun>s  inc  that  it  will  be 
■worth  tl  e  new  decoration  of  Italy,  which  has  just  been 
nistitute«l  by  the  king,  Victor  Eniaiuicl.' 

I  compose  also  a  great  deal  for  Ditson  of  Boston  under 
tbe  pscudonyme  of  'Seven  Octaves,'  and  also  for  Scliott  of 
^hivence  who  asks  ine  for  twelve  pieces  a  year. 

*  M  *  «  » 


1  NOTE. 

The  composer  having  diorl  before  the  presentation  of  tliis  composition 
to  the  I'rincoss  of  Italy,  and  evon  before  ho  hai)  entirely  revised  it,  it 
happened  tliat,  wlien  after  liis  deatli  his  trunks  w  -e  oi)ened  and  pilla^'cd 
by  tlie  hands  of  strangers,  and  oven  before  liis  family  knt^w  of  his  death, 
the  i)oor  '  Tarantelle,'  only  written  on  a  few  detached  leaves  and  very  im- 
perfectly, was  pnldished  i)y  persons  of  very  small  scrnpler.,  in  a  state  of 
complete  mutilation.  Later,  the  intimate  friend  of  (Jottschalk,  Mr.  N.  R. 
Espadero,  of  Havana,  edited  this  '  Tarantelle'  at  the  request  of  (Sotts- 
chalk's  familv,  from  the  artist's  manuscript,  and  Mr.  Escudier,  of  Paris, 
has  publishell  it  for  a  full  orch(!stra,  also  for  two  pianos,  and  with  quin- 
tette accompaniment.  t^-  "• 


I    . 


CONCLLSION. 


cclebnitotl  artist,  Loins   3ioi    ui  .„.,v  l...  miLlislu-.l  at  some 

s:::;;::X^;t=^---'^ ^ "- 

y,,,r  of  1..3  life.  ^^,j  unexp<'ct.-.l  blow 

Uevc  it.  Ill  fn.,n  an  attack  ot  X*^"-; '-"o  ct  -rt  ,  wltb  an 
Bnll-K-i..n.ly  recovercl  to  -'""".""''\'^;,  .\f ,"  .If  directed  in 
o..ehes.ra  of  nine  hundred  ---2:  ,  1-  speak  .ith 
,,e  execution  of  l.is  -Uesma^^«^-^  '^  ^^^  ,,,.;,,  ,,  Kio 
,,leasure  of    the  nnmense  .ucce.s  « '  '^^  ,,  ,^,  ,,^, 

Janeiro,  and  of  tl.e  kindness  and  ^"'^  ^^   ,^_     „,  ,„„  to 

•      1    .  .1...  i,!iliu-e  bv  the  Emperor  and  l^mprths. 
v"' "1:  i^eve  ylet^r  evtraetl  from  the  papers,  whose  eulog.- 
'"  "ILd  rS  a  pitch,  that  it  seemed  impossible  for  them  to 
""  e  e'rao^din^iy  enthusiasm  which  the  artist  had  excUed 

-::;:::rweiiasU..e..^^ 

ners,  and  generous  and  good  heait,  wnicu 

Mr  l.,c.aU6  of  «.,  a^-a    f  ^^^^^^^^^^^  «"=  «"'"'  "■" 

towards  the  end  of  Decembt  r,  io»..',  ^^^^ 

his  death.  ,        ,  .ilthou''h  his  family 

Delicately  as  this  death  was  announced,  and  althou„ 

(470) 


N. 


the  diary  kept  by  the 
ilk,  for  80  many  y«'nrrt. 
ay  be  publisbeil  iit  some 

hicuna  i'ound  in  the  hist 

len  and  unexpected  blow 
ed  for  a  lonji  time  to  bc- 
•vor  in  August,  18(V,),  ho 
•ies  of  concerts,  witli  an 
eh  he  himself  directed  in 

The  letters  speak  with 
1  he  was  having  at  llio 
siasm  with  which  he  was 
nd  Empress.  He  sent  to 
the  pa\)era,  whose  eulogi- 
ned  impossible  for  them  to 
liich  the  artist  ha.l  excited 
ce,  his  distinguished  man- 
,ich  had  caused  him  to  be 

the  masses. 

Bchalk,  wrote  to  his  sister- 
th  all  the  feeling  which  his 
npathy  for  his  sisters  could 
,f  their  much  loved  brother, 
which  his  death  had  thrown 
.(1  the  illustrious  artist  alter 

jed,  and  although  bis  family 


COXCfA/SIOX. 


477 


wore  in  some  sort  prepared  for  a  entastroplie,  not  having  lind  any 
letters  for  two  niontlis,  it  was  a  tlnmder-stroke,  and  one  of  those 
griefs  8(1  profound  tluit  it  is  beltec  to  pass  rai>iilly  over  this  period, 
in  order  to  speak  of  tint  extraonlinary  events  whieli  followed  it. 

To  tiie  ninncroua  h'tters  addressed  by  the  family  to  the  |)livsi- 
cian  who  hud  attended  Gottschalk,  to  the  friends  who  hail  sur- 
rounded jiiiu  with  so  nnich  solicitude,  to  the  landlord  of  tin;  hotel 
at  Ti'juea  where  he  gav  his  last  sigh,  to  learn  what  had  taken 
l)laee  during  iiis  last  monieuls,  no  answer  was  ev<T  reeeived.  and 
ui>  to  the  jiresent  time,  by  a  species  of  fatality  impossible  to  under- 
stand, his  family  know  absolutely  nothing  about  his  last  nu)nu;n(s, 
nor  about  the  true  cause  of  his  death. 

A  number  of  excellent  and  devoted  friends,  at  the  head  of  whom 
was  the  IJaron  Vargeaud,  wrote  sympathetic  letters  to  the  family,  in 
which  they  deeply  grieve.l  for  the  amiable  and  distluj^uished  man, 
the  mai.  of  feeling  and  intelligence  as  well  as  the  great  artist,  all 
adding  that  the  city  of  Rio  "had  never  been  plunged  into  a  mourn- 
ing so  profound  ;"  but  no  one  satisfied  the  cruel  'oubts,  tli<!  terrible 
anguish,  into  which  the  brother  and  sisters  of  Gotlschalk  were 
plunged. 

To  render  their  grief  still  more  poif^nant  a  series  of  incompre- 
hensible acts,  in  a  country  as  civilized  as  Hrazil,  followed  with  such 
great  rapidity,  that  whatever  might  have  been  the  means  employed, 
nothing  could  arrest  its  course.  Directly  a  faithless  servant  profited 
by  the  confusion  which  the  death  of  Gottschalk  had  occasioned  (a 
very  different  conduct  from  what  might  have  been  expected  of  him 
after  ten  years  of  service),  and  endeavoured  to  give  effect  to  a  paper, 
without  any  signature  whatever,  by  which  he  claimed  a  large  sum 
by  way  of  legacy.  This  demand  not  being  considered  worthy  of  a 
moment's  notice,  he  commenced  a  suit  at  law.  The  judgment  was 
against  him.  lie  went  so  far  as  even  to  cause  the  oody  of  his  master 
to  be  seized  when  it  was  going  to  be  carried  to  'he  steamer  which 
was  to  convey  it  to  New  York,  where  the  family  for  six  months  had 
been  expecting  it.  Fortunately  he  failed.  The  friends  of  Gotts- 
schalk,  indignant  at  this  outrage,  succeeded  through  their  united 
eiforts  in  preventing  his  project,  and  the  mortal  remains  of  the 


I 


1 


SOTES  OF  A  riASIST. 


A*7ft 

•      ,  „t  Now  York  «t  the  l.o«n.n-,n,'  of  Ootolnr   1H70, 
Rlmo«tftyenrntU'rh.8a.'atl.,cu  y 
cous..a  v.l.  to  .Uat  tunc  havu,,'  fa.l.Ml.  ^^^^^^^^^  ^j.  ^,^^ 

At  the  aeulh  of  GoUsd.alk  h,.  ^"'''^  J^'^^  \      ,,,,.,    ,.,  ,„.  ,,-,.,, 
1    .  I'lttlti   trunk  U»   WliU'li  IH^    iiii'i* 
AnuTU-an  vice-consul  '^  I'ttW-  tu    k  j^^..^^,,,,,!  i.^alecl  it 

placed  the  dc-oralions,  jcwcIh,  etc. 
over  to  the  frover.nnent.  ^r- ^„,,.,.  „„a  Or,.hans'  Court  at 

Kio,  written  m  l"'^"  '^^y'  ,,i,  ,,,v.,cts,  tranks,  ch.thc, 

Gollschalk),  inf..nnea  h.s  <""-"y '"  '  ,^^^,.„,,,  .,,■  M.,-cl>-thc 
etc.,w..uhl  he  sohl  at  auc.u.n  on  ^''?  '|';\",^ ,,,,,,  ,v„,../.c,' 
^ov^rnn^at  takin,  a.lvan.a.c  «t  >-^ -^^\^J^ ^,,  ,.ui  h.r  the 
ty  .hick  the  et^ect.  of  u  '-'f-^  j  V^^^Jed  at  the  end  of 
benelit  of  widowH  and  orphans.      J'"'^        ;,  ^^.,^,  „„  ,•„,.«  to 

March,  and  alVr  the  .ale  ''-^  ^'^^,    '^    .'^  ;'^;  ,,  „  unUn- 
do  anything.     The  content,  of  u  tr    d^,     >^^-  ^         ^     ^^    ^^^^^^.^,,^.^ 

at  ir.o,  and  --    '^  ^jf ),;  ^...../..ak,  these  conipositions  he.ng 

Fortunately  for  the  art.stu.  --^J;  ,  ^ y^,.  ,,,,.„.,,  ,,,  ,.en 
f,iend  of  Gottschalk,  Mr.  ^  ^  ^^^ ^:^  ^^^^^^^^^  '„,  ,,,  ,,„„v,  and  of 
,a,e,  aided  hy  ""7;-'''';.'"J:  r^U  G<.ttsehalk,  to  pro- 
,Uose  which  he  had    '•--  ^  ^^^       „  „,„,„r  of  which  are 

a,.ee  a  .cries  of  l^J^™- :  ::^l,nti.ue,'  K'aprioc  Polka,' 
found  some  mazourkas--  ''\""  n^. .  .  ^i  Cocoyc,"  Capnce 

.Second  «""i"'"I-,^""'\,       "'s    icB,-  edited  hy  one  of  his 
Cubain,'  and  many  ^^^^  J^^  ^^;obcron  .  1  Mains,'  ^  Mar- 

:rr=;::rt::^ii^^4reser.e.ri^^^^ 

^' i:wlrrl::::^il>le  to  enumerate  the  —res  taken  hy  the 


coyc/.rsiox. 


470 


n<t  of  OctolHT,  li^"f^. 
tlio  t'muily  of  tlic  ilt- 

[.,1  in  t»>«'  I'lH"^''  of  •^'" 

>h  1.0   llll'U  »"'   '"'   *'»""|' 
vict-con!*iil  hiiiiileJ  H 

nn.l  Ori.liaiis*  Coiirt  ftt 
thrt  iift.M-  III''.  Jt'iill'  "'' 
effects,  trunks,  clothes, 
htoenth  of  M.iivh— the 
ivw, '/(?'?'•'"■< '''""'""'"''' 
s  (li'iitli,  air.  soM  ft)r  tiio 
■r  unived  iit  the  end  of 
i ;  tluTO  was  no  time  to 
.msis-iin-?  of  some  niifui- 
.ublislu'il  by  II  ixiblislier 
,„9  appearoil,  whoso  solo 
hes(!  comiiositions  being 
inanuscrii>ts. 
levoteil  an.l  disintcTC-ste.l 
ro,  of  Havana,  has  been 
n  of  the   family,  and  of 
Vom    tlotischalk,  to  pro- 
be number  of  which  are 
ntique,'  '  Caprice  Polka,' 
e,'  '  El  Cocoye,'  '  Caprice 
ri'es'  edited  by  one  of  his 
'Obcronil  I  Mains,"  Mar- 
be  voice  from  a  part  of  it. 
delicacy  to   purchase   at 
ly,  who  preserve  for  him  a 

the  measures  taken  by  the 

iwed. 

he  Emperor  and  Empress, 


at  tiic  time  of  their  journey  to  {'.n^ilanil,  (he  sisters  of  (!ottsch>ilk 
luid  liopi'd  that  >ooii  all  wouhl  be  ended.  Il,  liowever,  jimounted 
(o  Molhiiif:,  except  a  ('ontinued  eorrespotideuce.  Hy  an  ineoni|ire- 
liensibie  fatality,  as  soon  as  one  power  of  attorney  was  si'ut  on  de- 
manil,  the  person  nauieil  in  it  had  left  Itio  and  another  Ix'came 
necessary.  Four  powers  of  attoriu'y  were  thus  sent,  tin:  first  to 
the  vice-eonsid  of  the  I'liiled  States,  the  seeoinl  to  tiie  minister, 
and  the  others  to  the  coiisid  and  minister  of  the  (lermaii  l''<mpire. 
Finally  in  December,  1M7.'1,  the  trunk  of  papers  was  traiismii..  I  to 
tiie  sisli'rs  of  (iottsehalk,  tlirou;^h  the  medium  of  tiu)  Uraziliun 
minister  in  London. 

Tiieso  papers  had  evidently  been  considered  of  no  value,  and  for 
this  reason  had  been  sent,  but  the  condition  in  which  they  were 
found  rendered  llie  labour  of  many  months  necjessury  before  the 
value  of  the  notes,  which  were  to  form  tlio  i)ook  presenteil  to-day 
to  the  public,  could  be  ascertained.  Some  hundreds  of  scattered 
leaves,  many  torn  in  two,  had  to  Ix!  matched,  others  wiiicli  hail 
been  exposed  to  dampnos,  reiulercd  almost  illegible  (the  ink  being 
hardly  visible),  bad  to  h(!  carefully  re-copied.  It  was  a  veritable 
chaos,  but  till'  artist's  sisters,  too  happy  in  having  possession  of  them, 
resolved  that  these  notes  should  be  pulilished,  and  one  of  them 
undertook  the  slow  and  arduous  work  of  putting  them  in  order, 
which  took  two  long  years — and  eleven  years  from  his  death  will 
have  passed  before  the  notes  of  his  travels  will  be  read  by  the 
public.  These  notes,  written  in  French,  have  been  translated  liy  the 
brother-in-law  of  tiie  (h'cetused.  Dr.  lto!)ert  E.  Peterson,  of  I'hila- 
delphia.  TIk;  task  was  somewhat  difficult  on  iiecouiit  of  the  fine, 
delicat(.',  and  original  style  of  Gottschalk,  which  is  not  easily  ex- 
pressed in  English. 

In  February,  1870,  ids  sisters  received  a  letter  from  Hra/.il, 
advising  them  that  there  would  be  forwarded  to  them  in  a  short 
time  a  small  box  containing  his  decorations,  also  a  small  sum  of 
money,  the  only  remains  of  their  brother's  effects.  These  decora- 
tions, among  which  the  most  beautiful  one  presented  to  him  by  the 
city  of  New  Orleans,  his  natal  city,  was  missing,  were  received  with 


it 


i-HHion 


^g^j  HOTES  OF  A  VIAMST. 

p,...«t.i..y*n«  I.i«  fmnily  luul  lo.t  all  l.opo  of  ever  gating  l>« 

n..nl  r  ..  s.   <.f  wi.i.-h   i..lna   it  is  ulnu.,st  in,.<,n.bl.  to  .p-.k 

,1  witl.oi.l  bit.c.rh.-K.  olfvoU  W1...H0  i..j.mtu-..  huH  l"-» 

'■'       '  M  my  oth.T  f.u.t«  which  wouhl  .lo  hul  linl..  honour 

::r^  :u.lby:uic......-«^-iiy'-' na,.riv...iof.... 

,     L    1     1   l..(.    ihrm   in   tlu)    rnitr.1   Stul.'S  huv   b'''"  '1'- 
lll..roL  .Vi..n.ls  of  all   ..onnTn.,  .ho  ,n.sc.ne  uu  a.K.H.un 

^-;i;::;:;;::;":;r.X^^ 

r.k.  a  «acml  l..gacy  which  th- brother  rnul  n.^t.-r.  ot  (.otts.halk 
w    l/hrirlls  .o  .bar.,  with  tla-n. ;  an.l   U  is  with  .ia^  ntna.s 
.,  tV      .I...V  otV.-r  to  the  ,.nblic  this  vohunc,  .-.■rtain  that 

r;  mr ': .'  v;:i;  t,;:  .aJ  umane.,  t,. ...  conuauty 

:,:!!  ,1::  alway.  b....n  shown  ^o  the  gn.at  An^rlean  p.an.sM.ul 
composer,  Lo^ia  MoKtsAU  GuTTSCUALii.  ^  •     • 


.rDIITMii'""— ~""" 


■vtT  getting  iKWHCHHion 

sonn,  wrltton  with  dif- 
)«t  iiiHM)H»ibln  li)  Kpriik 
iMJO  injuBtico  Imn  hirii 
il.l  lit.  l.iil  lilll'-  ln>i>""r 
1 II  (l«'|)rivi'il  of  wliiit 

Stlltl'H,  llllVf    Ix'iii    <1"- 

i(!  fow  jxTHoiif*,  lornctl'iil 
•(.nt  iirliHt,  ••oiiipiind  to 
o  jircwrve  an  allii-tiun 

Mi}rlit«,  tlifso  letters  ivro 
1(1  Hicters  of  (lottsclialk 
,1  it  is  Willi  111"  utmost 
this  volmnc,  certain  fliat 
L'S8,  the  >*i»nii'  fionliality 
at  American  pianist  ami 
CO. 


